This dress belonged to Mary Ann Henty [nee Lawrence] (1821-81), the wife of Francis Henty (1815-89). Her husband, Francis Henty, was the youngest son of Thomas Henty, who with his family, their retainers and property moved to the Australian colonies between 1829 and 1832. In 1834, Francis’ older brother, Edward, sailed from Launceston in Van Diemen’s Land to what was to become Portland in the western part of Port Phillip District [Victoria]. Francis, together with the first flock of Merino sheep [in Victoria], followed some months later. The first and second generations of the Henty family established vast pastoral properties in the Western part of the Port Phillip District. Francis Henty managed ‘Merino Downs’ near Casterton, while also living in his retirement at ‘Field Place' in Kew. The Henty Collection of nineteenth and twentieth century clothing, including outerwear and underwear, was collected, stored and exhibited over time by female family members descended from Francis and Mary Ann Henty. During the twentieth century, items from the collection were modelled in two fashion parades by various descendants [1937, 1959]. The items in the collection are historically and aesthetically significant, with provenance provided by oral and written tradition within or held by the family. A number of the items in the collection are very rare survivors, and provide researchers with the evidence needed to reconstruct the lives of notable women in the Port Phillip District [later Victoria] during the nineteenth and early twentieth century.A two-piece, moiré silk faille day dress, owned and worn by Mary Ann Henty, aged 59, while resident at Field Place, Kew. The fitted and panelled bodice on the day dress features wide velvet ribbon, hand sewn to form ‘V’ detailing at front and back. The front bodice hook and eye closure is decorated with handmade velvet covered buttons. The high round neckline is trimmed with pleated ivory fine tulle lace. The wide long sleeves of the bodice are also trimmed with velvet ribbon and buttons forming exquisite cuff detailing. The full length skirt and train are tucked into a fitted waistline band. The hemline is hand finished with wide velvet ribbon. A separate attached peplum is worn over the full bustle of the skirt. Measurements (mm): DRESS: Girth - Neck 355.6, Chest 889, Waist 673.1, Cuff 279.4, Hem circumference 4292.6. Vertical - Front neck to hem 1447.8, Front waist to hem 1117.6, Back neck to hem 1765.3, Back waist to hem 1346.2 , Sleeve length 590.55. Horizontal - Neck to sleeve head 196.85, Chest back 469.9, Underarm to underarm 457.2. PEPLUM Girth - Waist 711.2, Hem circumference 1066.8. Vertical - Back waist to hem 406.4.mary ann lawrence, francis henty, fashion -- 1880s, day dresses, women's clothing

This gown, one of two similar items in the collection belonged to one of the Ward Cole sisters, Miss Margaret Morison Ward Cole or Miss Agnes Bruce Ward Cole, daughters of George Ward Cole. George Ward Cole was an early member of the Victorian Parliament and the family featured prominently in Melbourne Society in their time. They established a substantial home known as “St Ninians” at 10 Miller Street in 1841. The family reportedly entertained Melbourne’s first Royal visitor the Duke Of Edinburgh, Queen Victoria’s second son at St Ninians in 1867. In later years St Ninians was subsequently sub divided and later demolished. A black and yellow velvet, wool, lace and silk dress from circa 1882. The bodice features a yellow silk, black lace and black velvet collar finishing high on the neck just below the chin finished with a black lace ruffle. The collar has a flap across the front of the throat that attaches at the side with a V-shaped baseline that contributes to concealing the fastenings of the bodice. The dress features a gathered central panel of black lace covered lemon silk, which falls from the neckline to the floor. At either side of this panel are matching panels of black velvet. The remainder of the dress and sleeves are made of black wool featuring a self-striped and spotted pattern. The dress fastens down the centre front with concealed black buttons hidden underneath the right velvet panel. The head of the Amadis sleeve sits on the natural shoulder line and finishes tightly at the elbow. The volume of the sleeve is created by ten pleats at the head of the shoulder, sewn to the bodice and is gathered at the elbow. The sleeve is finished with a black velvet ribbon with a bow and a black lace frill. The base of the dress is finished with a ruffle of the black dress wool. The dress features a small train. The dress is boned at the back waist and features an inset panel just below the waist of gathered fabric which forms the train. st ninians, george ward cole, visiting gown, brighton, margaret morrison ward cole, agnes bruce ward cole

Clothing. Women's black embossed silk bodice. Part of two piece set (skirt 11410.2). Stand up lace collar (7 cm) boned on either side and edged with cream coloured lace. Collar fastened at centre back with three metal hooks and eyes. Front opening left of centre fastened with eight metal hooks and cotton loops and three across the left shoulder. Crossover section at front is pin tucked below the neckline and is tapered into the waist with centre pleats. Both sides of the crossover have decorative beading along the edges. The inner layer of the bodice is fastened at centre front with 15 metal hooks and eyes - alternating directions. The bodice is shaped from the waist with 9 boned casings. The back is shaped in at the waist finishing with two U shaped tails (11cm X 8cm) with V shaped tails (4 cm X 6cm) on either side. The waistline and tails are finished with a double row of decorative black beading. At the waistline at centre back are three metal hooks to attach bodice to skirt. Long sleeves are gathered at the shoulder, shaped at the elbow tapering to the wrist. Below the wrist is a two piece cuff (13cm X 7cm) with decorative black beading. The bodice is fully lined with light brown cotton fabric with grey splash pattern. Historical Notes: This bodice and skirt belonged to Elizabeth Graydon (nee Richardson). Photograph of Elizabeth wearing this outfit (11410.3).costume, female, women's black silk bodice

Clothing. Deep V neckline, front and back, has a tapered tie, at the shoulder to 4.5 cm, and slanted at the lower edge of the tie. The V neckline has a fine binding finish as do the armholes, and the lower edge of the bodice. Shadow, and pulled thread embroidery, in a floral design, outlines the V neckline in the front. A tiny 10 cm x 10 cm heart shaped pocket is bound at the edges and sits at lower right front. A small dart, 1 cm x 6 cm long is below the armholes, on each side seam. Fabric is cut on the cross to add flair. A two cm x 60 cms tie attaches at each side seam, and would tie at the back. Clothing. Pyjama pants have a V shaped waistband 11 cm deep at front and back, below which is a small 1.5 cm wide pleat on either side of front and back. An 11 cm deep plackett on both side seams - on the left hand side two x 1 cm pearl buttons and buttonholes fasten the plackett. The two buttons on the right hand side are missing. A panel of shadow embroidery decorates the outside lower edge of the trouser leg. Fabric is woven with a floral design. Lower edge of legs are finished with a fine binding. 11 cm peak at waistband. Pants with hem 88 cms, width at ankles 64 cms.Silk and Rayon Made in Chinacostume, female, pink silk pyjamas (bodice)

Long sleeves, with gathering at the elbow to allow movement. Finished at the wrist with two eleven cm deep frills, edged with two cm wide navy blue, cotton fringing. A four cm deep gathered frill edges the high round neckline, with a narrow piping finishing the neckline seam. Two panels at the front extend from the shoulders,to the peaked waistline. These are gathered at the shoulders, edged in navy blue fringing, and the waistline edge has the gathers alternately stitched together to form a hook and eye fasteners. A fine piping defines the peaked waistline. Bodice fully lined with cream cotton fabric. Armhole/sleeve seam finished with a fine piping.Skirt has been hand stitched into tight tiny pleats. Skirt is fully lined with cream linen, and is edged at the hemline, with one cm soft green braid. Centre front of skirt has a panel extending from the peak of the waistline, where it is 5.5cm wide to the hemline, where it is 20cm wide. This panel is edged in the navy blue fringing, and is attached to the skirt at approx 15-18 cms. Panel is fully lined with cream linen. At approx. 9-10cm spaces a 4cm fabric frill and an angled band of the navy fringing. This gives a ''ladder-like'' effect. Sleeves are bell shaped, and finished at the wrist with a 11.5cm and a 12.5cm frill, both finished with the navy fringing.costume, female, full length dress with blue fringing

High round neckline finished with a 2 cm fine striped silk stand-up collar-(this is now severely damaged). One metal hook fastener at the neckline, but no loop remains, although thwere is some evidence of a hand stitched remnant of a loop. Eight rounded buttons (one missing) are bound with silk thread. Sleeves have a fine rouleau piping at shoulder. They are round in shape at the elbow, and finished with a flounce, which is trimmed with 2.5 cm band of contrasting, finely striped silk and a 5 cm wide silver silk braid, as in 11400.975 and 11400.976. A gathered frill and a band of striped ribbon trim the upper edge of the flounce. The striped ribbon, and silver braid trim the front panels, either side of the button opening, and a band of the striped ribbon and silver braid trim the lower edge of bodice.Bodice and sleeves are lined with cream polished cotton, while the lower front panels, which give a peplum type of effect, are lined with cream silk. Centre back panel has a fabric bow, trimmed with the darker striped fabric, and the silver braid bow is 13 cm wide, plus the 5 cm silver braid. Pleated tails of the bow are part of back bodice. An inside 2cm wide cotton tape, with metal hook, and hand stitched loop, fastens around the waistline. Garment is machine and hand stitched. Buttonholes are hand -stitched.costume, female, gold silk victorian bodice

Clothing. Cream coloured lace silk wedding dress. Dress made from fine silk fabric with self stripe, fully lined with cream coloured linen. High round neckline with stand up lace collar(6cm). Bodice at front has crossover from shoulder to waist, forming deep Vshape at centre front with net insert below the collar. Net insert has vertical pin tucks. Bodice front and back has cream coloured lace overlay that extends over the shoulders to halfway down the 3/4 length sleeves. Hem of sleeves trimmed with embroidered lace with geometric pattern. Cummer bund of pleated silk fabric (7cm) is attached around waistband. Floor length skirt is gathered into the waistband.Front of skirt has straight lace panelsoverlay (37cmX 90 cm) including 20 cm flounce at lower edge, attached at waistline. Back of skirt has gathered lace overlay attached at waistline extending across side seams and over the edge of front lace panel. Centre back opening fastened with eighteen metal hooks and eyes from collar to waist and six metal press-studs below the waist. Cummerbund fastened with three metal hooks and eyes. A fabric insert at centre back fastened with press-studs. Collar has five pieces of stiffening plastic. Bodice has three bone casings across front above waistline, and four across the back. Cotton tape band (66 cm X 3cm) attached inside bodice at front with hook and eye fasteing.Printed on inside waistband, ''AMALIA SALXANO FARRONE'' NAPOLI ''MODE +CON----'' VIA EGIZIACA A PIZZO FALCONE 93''. Printed inside LHS sleeve at arm pit ''SAXONIA 48X''.costume, female, cream coloured wedding dress

This dress was donated as having belonged to Annie Elizabeth McLean, who worked as a maid to the daughters of Samuel Renwick of Caulfield. Annie was born in Argyllshire, Scotland in 1853. This dress appears to have been originally made circa 1855 and then modified circa 1872. As Annie would only have been two years old in 1855, this indicates that the dress would most probably have been originally made for someone else and later acquired by Annie. Annie Elizabeth McLean arrived in the Colony of Victoria from Argyllshire, Scotland with her aunts and cousins in 1867, aged thirteen and a half. She had been educated in Scotland and eventually became a personal maid and then companion to the Renwick girl, daughters of Samuel Renwick of Caulfield, Victoria. The Renwicks' home, 'The Garrell' on Glen Eira Road, was one of Caulfield's earliest residences, having been built around 1854. Samuel was a business partner of William Kerr Thomson, a well-known Brighton resident and the original occupant of the North Road mansion 'Kamesburgh'. During her time with the Renwick family, Annie travelled with them to England, then to Scotland, then back to Victoria. She left the family upon the marriage of the youngest Renwick daughter, then went to the household of Sir William and Lady McCullough until she left to be married to Alfred John Ashfold in 1878.This c1872 grey and white silk pin stripe dress features a high round neckline with eleven decorative blue silk buttons and secured by a concealed line of fifteen hook and eyelet closure. The bodice (.1) has decorative blue and green braid over the shoulder and bust and across the base of the bodice. The dress features three darts shaping the dress to the body. The sleeve is cut high but relatively full and tapers to the elbow then flares again in Pagoda like style but ends at the wrist or hand. The skirt (.2) opens over the left hip and features a pocket over the right hip. The skirt at the front finishes at the ankle or just above the ground. At the back the bodice features panels shaping the dress into the body and pleated and flared from the waist. At the small of the back is a decorative bow with pinked edges and decorative braid. The skirt at the back is uncommon in shape most likely as the result of modification. It appears to have had panels removed reducing its original fullness. It has a tape inside the back of the skirt that would draw the skirt in creating a bustle like shape . It would appear that the dress had been modified in order to create a more fashionable silhouette most probably in circa 1872. There are three separate pieces of fabric. One is made up into a semi-circular over-skirt trimmed with blue braid and fringing (.3). Two pieces are unpicked skirt gores, one still has its cotton lining attached (.4 and .5).annie elizabeth mclean, samuel renwick, the garrell, caulfield

The 'Melbourne District Nursing Society After Care Home' was built by MDNS in 1926 and the name changed from 'Care' to 'Hospital' in 1934. It was located at 45 Victoria Parade, Collingwood. This photograph is taken three years after Miss Dorothy Tupper was appointed Matron of the District Nursing Division of the Society in 1941. The Sisters in this Division worked in the community giving nursing care to people in their own homes.From its foundation in 1885 the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS, were instrumental in giving care to their patients, and to assist them if they had financial problems or resided in poor living conditions. Miss Dorothy Tupper, who as a Trained nurse, had undertaken a course in hospital housekeeping at London Prince of Wales Hospital, was contacted by MDNS in 1939 and, possessing both business and humanitarian qualities, was asked to organize their newly established Social Service Department. As the MDNS Social Service Sister, she assessed the living conditions in patient's homes. She continued in this role until being appointed Matron of the Society's District Nursing division in 1941. Matron Dorothy Tupper announced her retirement in December 1962. As Matron for 22 years she played a major role in the employment and management of an ever increasing nursing workforce as well as help oversee the expansion of the service. Matron Tupper was known for her keen sense of duty, her high professional standards and never-failing concern for patients. The photograph was taken by Sun Newspaper photographer and appeared in an article about the MDNS in September 1944Black and white photograph showing Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) Matron, Dorothy Tupper, standing side on, and to the left, of three District Trained nurses (Sisters) who are seated in the grounds of the After-Care Hospital. Matron Tupper is wearing a light coloured uniform which has a belt and a centre box pleat on the lower part of the skirt; a grey brimmed hat with a darker grey hat band sits over her short dark hair. She is looking down at the first Sister on the seat who is looking up at her. The Sisters at either end of the seat are wearing dark grey double breasted coats with lapels; the collars of their light colour uniforms can be seen. Both are wearing grey brimmed hats over their short dark hair. The Sister at the far end is wearing glasses and the Sister near Matron Tupper is holding a book. The centre Sister has shoulder length dark hair and is wearing a light coloured long sleeve uniform. She is also holding a book. Both these Sisters are looking toward Matron Tupper. The seat is made of wood and is against the concrete veranda of the building behind. Scrolled metal lace work is directly behind them with a round thin concrete post to the left of Matron Tupper and the other end of the lace work is fixed to the concrete square corner columns. One turns to the right and the concrete wall of the veranda attached can be seen running in front of part of the brick wall of the building.after- care hospital, melbourne district nursing society, mdns, nurses, matron, mdns social service department, rdns, royal district nursing service, matron dorothy tupper

It is a woolen khaki green great coat, with inter shoulder lining of khaki green canvas. There are back belt loop holes in the interior, lined by the same canvas. The pockets are made of the same canvas and are not sew to the interior of the coat at the bottom. The insides of the sleeves are lined with a more beige khaki green material. There is a split flap that is 500mm long in the middle at the bottom of the coat, which is fixed shut with two brown plastic buttons and a metal hook and eye at the bottom. The construction of the jacket is four panels and has been taken in at the waist for form above both pockets. The jacket has a back pleat from below the triangle stitching below the nape of the neck. The back belt has three metal insignia buttons, and the backside is lined with canvas. On both shoulders, there are epaulettes which have one metal insignia button each. On the front, there are three metal buttons on each on flap, and when the jacket is done up, the left flap goes on top. It has three button holes on the left flap and one button hole on the right flap for a large brown button on the inside of the left flap. There are two outer pockets on either side of the jacket. Beneath the jacket lapels, on either side there are metal buttons, and there are button holes for them in the middle of the bottom lapel. Where the upper and lower lapels are split, there is a hook and eye. There is a brown plastic button on the underside of both the upper lapels, which is where the extra flap of fabric on the inside of the left jacket flap, can be fixed as a face protector. The tag on the inside reads; DAVID KLEIN PTY. LTD. Victoria 1967 An arrow (Department of defence symbol) SIZE 6 CLASS 8405 66.012.0494 REGIMENTAL NO................... NAME......................... The regimantal number section had a number filled in but then scribbled out and another number written above, which is 359282. The name section was filled in with B.R.MIER. The name and regimental numbers were done in black marker pen. All the metal buttons are decorated with the medical corps symbol, which is a serpent-entwined rod (Rod of Asclepius) surrounded by a laurel wreath and above the rod is a crown (St Edward’s Crown). On the outside of the upper sleeves, just below the shoulder, there is two patches that signifies the rank of Staff Sergeant. The top patch is an embroided St Edward’s Crown and represents the staff rank. It is 47mm wide and 45mm. Below this there is a patch depicting the three stripes/ chevorns of the sergeant rank. The chevorn’s points face down, and the sides measure 66mm, while the depth down to the point is 86mm. The bottom lengths is 100mm on both sides and the top lengths are 9mm. coat, trench coat, great coat, medical corps, staff sergeant, b.p. mier, 359282, david klein pty. ltd., 1967

Silk, satin, fully lined with silk (?). Eleven bones, ranging in length from 10 - 12 cm long, taper the bodice to the waistline. 15cm wide panels of beaded net come from the high back waistband, over the shoulder to the front waistband. These are loose panels with linear beading, and more decorative beading over the shoulders. Centre front panel has a net overlay, sheer above the bustline to the throat, with a 16cm high net stand-up, mandarin collar, edged in lace, and outlined at the throat with a row of tiny jet beads. Cotton perspiration pads under the arms.A beaded '' butterfly'' shape sits over the bustline where the sheer lace panel begins. Below the beaded motif, five roulet knotted and loops fasten into the finest of metal loops to close the bodice. Silk ''over -sleeves'' also have three roulet looped decorations at each edge. Below the elbow length ''over sleeves'', a double layer of net sleeves-the top layer finished with seven rows of tiny jet beads, the lower wrist length net sleeve, finished wit one row of tiny jet beads, and a two cm net fill. Beading and an embroidered ribbon flower trim the back centre net panel, and a roulet looped trim, sits at the centre back waistline. An extension of the beaded over -the-shoulder panels falls in a rectangular shape 38cm X 23cm. The front extension of the ''over the shoulder'' beaded net, falls in two oval shapes - one either side of opening 24cms long. A 4.5cm band of three pleated silk encircles the waistline.Waterfield, 14 Gleghow Terrace, South Kensington. ( Label on tape fastens around waistline).costume, female, black silk satin beaded bodice

Ivory coloured waist length silk wedding bodice with front opening. Silk fabric has alternating striped pattern of chequerboard pattern, running stitch pattern and diagonal woven pattern. The bodice is made of two layers of the silk fabric with cotton fabric lining. The front inner layer has two darts from the waistline. The back inner layer has a centre seam and three darts from the waist on either side. The outer layer on both front and back has three knife pleats falling from the shoulders creating a gathered effect. These side panels of pleated fabric create a deep V neckline by crossing over 5cm above the waist. The V shape neckline is filled with an insert of cream and dark green lace with a floral pattern. The lace insert extends to the throat to form a high round neckline. The neckline is edged with cream coloured woven cotton braid. The side edges of the outer layers are trimmed with cream lace with a floral pattern and 5cm zig zag peaked edges that extends from centre waist at the front, over the shoulders and to the crossover section at centre back where there is a decorative silk fabric flower stitched at the crossover point just above the waist. The front opening is fastened with fourteen hooks and eyes plus another hook and eye offset 5 cm above the waist at the crossover point. Set in long sleeves are in two sections. An inner layer of silk fabric widens to the elbow where two five cm frills of gathered tulle are attached. Each frill is edged with a row of silk stitching. Attached below the frills are two 7 cm strips of lace stitched together to form the lower part of the sleeve. The edge of the lace forms the hem at the wrist. Each sleeve has a 5 cm hemmed V shaped split from the hem at the wrist. The outer layer of the sleeve is bell shaped falling from the shoulder to the elbow. This section of the sleeve is edged with cream lace with a floral pattern and 5cm zig zag peaked edges that are stitched to the fabric of the sleeve. Ivory coloured full-length wedding skirt with train. The skirt is made in two layers. The under layer is made from cotton from the waist with a wide border of silk fabric - 18 cm wide at centre front, widening to 37 cm at the side seams. The back of this skirt extends to a train and the border widens to 48 cm. The border section is lined with cotton fabric. At the centre back, the border has two godet inserts to create fullness in the train. The outer layer of the skirt is of ivory silk fabric with alternating vertical stripes of a chequerboard pattern, a running stitch pattern and a diagonal woven pattern. The lower edge of the skirt is edged with an 18 cm border of lace patterned with embroidered circles. The edge of the lace forms a zig zag pattern of elongated V shaped peaks (7 cm). The front of the skirt dips to a V shape at centre front with the point of the V reaching the hemline. The back of the skirt dips below the front hemline in a U shape over the train. The waist band is made of cotton tape. The centre front of the waistband has an embroidered pattern in silk thread. The centre back opening is fastened with seven metal hooks with six cotton loops plus one metal eye on the waistband. There are two cotton tape hanging loops on either side of the inner waistband. Hand and machine stitched.costume, female ceremonial, wedding bodice

Clothing. Woman's black ribbed silk bodice, fully ;lined with black cotton fabric. High round neckline with stand up lined lace collar (4cm), fastened left of centre at front with two metal hooks and eyes. Front lining fastened with twelve metal hooks and eyes from throat to waistband. Waistband (5.5cm) of horizontal pleated fabric. Small pocket (8cm X 6cm) attached to inside lining on LHS. Waistband has 7 cm cross over tab section at centre front fastened with three metal hooks and eyes. Centre front opening is edged with black lace and tucked spotted voile, fastened with three metal hooks and eyes.A wide shawl collar across the shoulders extends and gathers into the waistband at front and back. This forms a V shaped opening at the front exposing the lace and voile beneath.The inner and outer edges of the collars have decorative knots. The centre of the collars have 18cm pin tucks from the shoulder seam at the front and 11 cm pin tucks at the back.At centre back. a panel of black lace runs from the collar to the hem of the waistband. Two gathered fabric tails are attached at centre back to hang below the hem of the waistband. Decorative lace as stitched across the shawl collar at the shoulders seams, ending with a decorative knot and cotton tassell (7cm). Set in Leg 'o'Mutton sleeves are gathered around the arm holes and gathered into a band of fabric with decorative lace and knots. The narrow lower section has a turned over hem edged with decorative knots and black lace. Each sleeve has a 5cm slit at the wrist. The bodice has fifteen bone casings spaced across the garment, from the waistband. These are stitched in place with yellow cotton. Some internal seams finished with yellow cotton. Hand stitched. Word ''GLEN" is written on one bone casing. Temporary darts have been stitched on both side seams with red cotton to reduce the size.costume, female, woman's black ribbed silk bodice.

Alonzo Box, of Oakleigh ,a nephew of William and Elizabeth Box who resided in 'Box Cottage' 1865 - 1914, married Mary Closter (Kloster), of Oakleigh, on June 12th 1918. Alozo's elder sister, Rebecca, sent a bolt of Chinese hand-embroidered silk from which this wedding dress was made. Rebecca Viloudakia, nee Box, was a missionary in China, and married to a Greek Silk Merchant. Alonzo Box, the 9th child of John and Martha Sheldrake Box , enlisted in the Army and landed at Gallipoli 25/4/1918. He was evacuated to Egypt and then sent to the battlefields of France and Flanders before returning home to Melbourne in February 1918. Rebecca Box, the eldest child of John and Martha Sheldrake Box, was in the first party of Methodist Missionaries to leave Australia for the China Inland Mission in 1890. During the Boxer Uprising 1900-1901 her Mission outpost was attacked but she escaped and was taken to Shanghai. She later married one of the rescue party Nicholas Viloudakia a Greek silk merchant .Australian Dress Register ID 573 12/5/2015 Following Henry Dendy's Special Survey 1841 pioneer settlers bought allotments of land in the area of Moorabbin Parish. Alonzo Box was the nephew of William and Elizabeth Box who bought the cottage on the 30acre allotment from an unknown pioneer settler in 1868 and resided there until Elizabeth's death in 1914. Alonzo Box served in the Army World War 1 1914- 1918 at Gallipoli, France and Flanders. Rebecca Box -Viloudakia was in the first party of Methodist Missionaries to leave Australia for the China Inland Mission in 1890 and was rescued during the Boxer Rebellion 1900-1901 and taken to Shanghai by her future husband.A cream two piece wedding dress made from a bolt of hand embroidered Chinese silk for the marriage of Mary Closter and Alonzo Box on June 12th, 1918. The bolt of Chinese silk was sent by Alonzo’s older sister, Mrs Rebecca Viloudakia, a missionary in China, who was married to a Greek silk merchant. The machine sewn dress was made by a dressmaker in Dandenong, Victoria. The jacket is blouson, with a front opening and is gathered at the waist by a band enclosing a drawstring. The collar is a sailor style that forms a slight / high V-shape front neckline. Four vertical roses are separated by three bands of lacework. The back of the jacket is plain silk. The right front of the jacket has a panel of embroidered roses, band of lacework and a facing fold that encloses 4 fastening presses. There are crocheted bobbles on the front representing buttons. The left jacket front also has the panel of embroidered roses, lacework and matching fold for the 4 fastening studs. The full length inset sleeves are gathered to a cuff that fastens with silk covered buttons. The sleeves have floral embroidery down the outside centre line. The left sleeve has an extra detachable cuff with embroidery on the flounce that matches the bottom panel of the skirt. It is held in position around the wrist by 4 white metal press studs. The skirt sits above the ankle. It consists of 5 panels slightly gathered at the back waistline with a left side placket 21cm with hooks and eyes and press studs. The waistband is lined with petersham and has 6 whalebone inserts. The front of the skirt has small pleats to fit the 3 decorated panels to the waistline. The front has 3 bands of lacework around the lower part. 3 panels form the centre front each embroidered with a different floral pattern. The back of the skirt is plain with 3 bands of lacework rising from the hem, which is sewn with spoke work stitch. The long waist sash/belt is plain silk with embroidered ends and 3 silk balls with crocheted caps suspended on 3 crocheted silk chains. It has a rose knot with 2 metal press stud fasteners. There are a variety of floral designs embroidered on the material including ‘corner motifs’ on the 2nd inner front panel of skirt. brighton, moorabbin, silk, box william, box elizabeth, box alonzo, box mary, kloster mary, closter mary, oakleigh, dandenong, chinese silk merchant, boxer rebellion 1900-1901, box rebecca, methodist china inland mission, viloudakia nichols, anzac landings, world war 1, gallipoli

Ivory coloured silk bodice. Part of wedding ensemble with matching skirt with train. (11400.513B). The silk fabric has an all over pattern of scattered leaves. The bodice has long sleeves and is fully lined with cotton fabric with a front opening. The cotton lining at the front forms a separate bodice with a front opening fastened with fifteen hooks and eyes from throat to waist. The lining is edged at centre front on both sides with a border of the silk fabric. The border narrows from 7 cm at the throat to 3 cm at the waist. In the lining of the bodice are two casings on either side of the front opening containing boned segments. Across the lining of the back are seven casings containing boned segments. The front LHS of the bodice has an outer layer of silk fabric with a squared neckline. The RHS of the bodice overlaps the centre opening of the bordered lining to attach across the left shoulder. From the left shoulder the front tapers diagonally to the waistline 4cm to the left of centre. This cross over section is fastened with ten hooks and eyes – seven of the eyes are attached to the bodice lining and three are on the LHS outer silk fabric layer. This section crosses full width to the edge of the LH sleeve, across the top of the shoulder to the neckline. The LHS outer section crosses back over the edge of the centre section. There is a third layer on the RHS with a squared neckline to form a symmetrical appearance. The two side sections are edged with ruffles of fine silk ribbon. The centre section of the crossover part has vertical pintucks extending from the throat for 9 cm. The fullness created by the pintucks is gathered to centre front where the waist dips to a shallow V shape. The back of the bodice has vertical pintucks extending 12 cm from across the shoulders, narrowing to a single vertical strip of pintucks (4 cm) ending at centre waist. The waist is edged with a border of silk ribbon with a horizontal tuck. Inside the back of the bodice above the waist cotton tape ties are attached. These ties extend to the front of the bodice and the ends are fastened with a metal buckle. On this cotton tape at centre back there are to metal hooks for attaching the skirt. Attached to the neckline of the front section of the bodice is a 7 cm stand up collar. The collar extends from the RH shoulder in front of the neck and across the LH shoulder and continues unattached around the back of the neck to attach to the edge of the collar at the RH shoulder. The edges of the collar are fastened with three hooks and eyes. The collar has three full width horizontal pleats and the top edge is trimmed with a frill of fine gathered silk ribbon. On the waistline at centre front and centre back are decorative buttons (3.5 cm) of pearl coloured beads. The buttons have a centre pearl bead bordered by small glass beads surrounded by 9 smaller pearl beads and nine small pearl beads. Each button is edged with a row of tiny class beads with 18 points. The long sleeves are fully lined and made of two sections. The underneath section of the sleeve is ungathered and shaped at the elbow. The upper section of each sleeve is gathered at the shoulders and attached to the underneath section with a series of small pleats down to the elbow creating fullness. There is a small cap sleeve at each shoulder over the top of the gathered sleeve. The cap sleeves are edged with a frill of gathered silk ribbon with a decorative row of gathered silk ribbon parallel to the edge. At each wrist is a gathered frill of silk fabric edged with silk ribbon. Each sleeve has an 8 cm split at the wrist on the back seam. Full length ivory coloured silk skirt. The silk fabric has an all over pattern of scattered leaves. The skirt is fully lined with cotton fabric. The skirt is made of 5 pieces. The centre front panel has two darts at the waistline. The two side panels are cut on the bias and wrap around to form a centre back seam gathered into the waistband and finishing 44 cm below the waist line. Two triangular pieces of fabric are inserted at the back below the centre seam to complete the full circle of the skirt. There is 30 cm back opening. The waistband is made of cotton tape (3cm) fastened with two hooks and eyes with a 2 cm crossover. There is another hook and eye fastener halfway along the opening split. There is one upward facing hook on either side of the centre back opening to attach the matching bodice. The LHS of the back opening has a cotton fabric pocket inserted along the seam. The hem of the skirt is edged with two 5 cm frills of gathered silk fabric.costume, female daywear, silk bodice

On the 1984 Los Angeles Olympic Uniforms donator Doug wrote- During the 1980s the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of “Controller, Technical Marketing” where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the “Product Marketing Group” which exploited trhe traditional high profile approach of marketing wool;s superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. When the forthcoming Los Angeles Olympic Games was announced, the Product Marketing Group seized upon the chance to show the world that we could make top fashion garments and display them on our elite athletes on the world stage. A concept was launched using a contemporary top designer, Adel Weiss, with the most exclusive fabrics and knits available, and all with a lot of hype. This launch failed dismally for the following reasons- - The designer did a wonderful job presenting an excellent fashion range on perfect skinny models. The AOC however wanted a uniform which had an obvious Australian appearance when fitted to elite, and frequently muscular, athletes. - The fabrics chosen did not reflect the performance required by travelling athletes, there was no recognition of the need for ‘easy care.’ - There was no recognition given to the problem of measuring, manufacturing and distribution of a range of articles when the selected athlete could be domiciled anywhere in Australia. - There was no appreciation of such historical facts as Fletcher Jones, who had been unofficial suppliers dating back to the 1954 Olympics in Melbourne, and the Fletcher Jones board member, who was also an AWC board member, and was not in favour of the change. The project passed from Product Marketing to Public Relations, a big spending off-shoot of the AWC Chairman David Asimus, and due to the day to day operations of the project was passed to me and PR took care of the financial matters. The first task was to meet with the AOC and find out exactly their requirements. This lead to the production of a design and manufacturing brief, cointaining exact time lines for each event required to ensure an appropriate uniform on every athlete chosen to represent his/her country on the date given for the Opening Ceremony in Los Angeles. Working backwards the timeline becomes- 1. Noted the exact date of the Opening Ceremony. 2. Estimated the date for distributing completed garments to each athlete. 3. Estimated the time span available for measuring each athlete and commence making each component of the ensemble to the individual measurements of each athlete. 4. Decided the date for making the final choice of uniform design concept. 5. Decided the date for distribution of the design brief to selected designers. These five steps were spread out over a two year period. The Commonwealth Games occur midway between each Olympic Games, work on the Olympic uniform commences the week after the Commonwealth Games closing ceremony and MUST be ready by the prescribed day two years hence. The project also had to remain cognisant of trade politics existing within the span of the task, as well as the temperament of designers in general. It is no overstatement to say that in the past every designer in Australia believed they could, and should, be chosen to design the Australian Uniform. The final choice of designer almost always faced criticism from the fashion press and any designer who had been overlooked. However, with the contenders receiving an exacting brief the numbers of serious contenders greatly reduced. The Los Angeles Olympic Uniforms. A further reason for the AWC bid failure to design the LA uniform was that the AOC had already chosen Prue Acton to design it. This was based on her proven performance during previous games as she had a talent for creating good taste Australiana. Her design concepts also considered the effect when they were viewed on a single athlete as well as the impact when viewed on a 400 strong team coming on to the arena. A blazer trouser/skirt uniform in bright gold was chosen for the formal uniform. It was my task to select a pure wool faille fabric from Foster Valley weaving mill and have sufficient woven and ready within the prescribed timeline. The trouser/skirt fabric selected was a 60/40 wool polyester plain weave fabric from Macquarie Worsted. This fabric had a small effect thread of linen that was most attractive when dyed to match some eucalyptus bark Prue had brought back from central Australia. For the Opening Ceremony uniform, Prue designed a series of native fauna, a kookaburra for the men’s shirt and a pleated skirt with a rural scene of kangaroos, hills and plants. This presented an insurmountable printing challenge to the local printing industry as it had an unacceptably large repeat size and the number required (50) was also commercially unacceptable. The solution was a DIY mock up at RMIT and the employment of four student designers. The fabric selected for this garment was a light weight 19 micron, pure wool with a very high twist yarn in alternating S and Z twist, warp and weft. This fabric proved to be the solution to a very difficult problem, finding a wool product which is universally acceptable when worn next to the sin by young athletes competing in the heat of a Los Angeles summer. Modifications to this fabric were developed to exploit its success when facing the same problem in future games. Garment Making- The most exacting garment in the ensemble is the tailored blazer, plus the related trouser/skirt. Unfortunately tailoring athletes that come in various shapes and sizes such as; - Weight lifters develop an enormous chest, arms and neck size. A shirt made to a neck size of 52 would produce a shirt with cuffs extending well beyond the wearer’s hands. - Basketball players are up to 7 feet tall and garments relying ona chest measurement grading would produce a shirt with cuffs extending only to elbow length. - Swimmers develop enormous shoulders and slim hips, cyclists by contrast develop thighs I liken to tree trunks and a uniform featuring tight trousers must be avoided at all cost. Suffice to say many ensembles require specialist ‘one off’ treatment for many athletes. Meanwhile there is a comfortable in between group who can accept regular sizes so you can cater for these by having back up stock with plenty of built in contingencies. Athletes may be domiciled anywhere in Australia, this creates a fundamental problem of taking their measurements. The Fletcher Jones organisation was key to answering this problem due to their presence in every capital city, as well as many provincial towns around Australia. Each athlete on being selected for the Olympic Team was simultaneously requested to visit their nearest Fletcher Jones shop. The standardised measurement data collected was shared with the other manufacturers, e.g. Pelaco Shirts, Holeproof Socks and Knitwear, Maddison Belts, and even Hush Puppy Shoes. As the time for the Games approached the AOC made arrangements for combining meeting of all. Selected available athletes at the Australian Institute of Sport, Canberra, where, among other things, they were fitted and supplied with their uniform. The method evolved as follows.Men’s cream coloured button up, collared shirt. Images of a kookaburra have been printed onto the shirt, a single kookaburra on the left breast and a pair of kookaburras on the reverse of the shirt. The kookaburras are printed in a brown tone to complement the cream colour of the fabric.On tag - FMaustralian wool corporation, 1984 los angeles olympics, olympic uniforms, men's uniforms, sport, athletes