Physical description

Ivory coloured silk bodice. Part of wedding ensemble with matching skirt with train. (11400.513B). The silk fabric has an all over pattern of scattered leaves. The bodice has long sleeves and is fully lined with cotton fabric with a front opening. The cotton lining at the front forms a separate bodice with a front opening fastened with fifteen hooks and eyes from throat to waist. The lining is edged at centre front on both sides with a border of the silk fabric. The border narrows from 7 cm at the throat to 3 cm at the waist. In the lining of the bodice are two casings on either side of the front opening containing boned segments. Across the lining of the back are seven casings containing boned segments. The front LHS of the bodice has an outer layer of silk fabric with a squared neckline. The RHS of the bodice overlaps the centre opening of the bordered lining to attach across the left shoulder. From the left shoulder the front tapers diagonally to the waistline 4cm to the left of centre. This cross over section is fastened with ten hooks and eyes – seven of the eyes are attached to the bodice lining and three are on the LHS outer silk fabric layer. This section crosses full width to the edge of the LH sleeve, across the top of the shoulder to the neckline. The LHS outer section crosses back over the edge of the centre section. There is a third layer on the RHS with a squared neckline to form a symmetrical appearance. The two side sections are edged with ruffles of fine silk ribbon. The centre section of the crossover part has vertical pintucks extending from the throat for 9 cm. The fullness created by the pintucks is gathered to centre front where the waist dips to a shallow V shape. The back of the bodice has vertical pintucks extending 12 cm from across the shoulders, narrowing to a single vertical strip of pintucks (4 cm) ending at centre waist. The waist is edged with a border of silk ribbon with a horizontal tuck. Inside the back of the bodice above the waist cotton tape ties are attached. These ties extend to the front of the bodice and the ends are fastened with a metal buckle. On this cotton tape at centre back there are to metal hooks for attaching the skirt. Attached to the neckline of the front section of the bodice is a 7 cm stand up collar. The collar extends from the RH shoulder in front of the neck and across the LH shoulder and continues unattached around the back of the neck to attach to the edge of the collar at the RH shoulder. The edges of the collar are fastened with three hooks and eyes. The collar has three full width horizontal pleats and the top edge is trimmed with a frill of fine gathered silk ribbon. On the waistline at centre front and centre back are decorative buttons (3.5 cm) of pearl coloured beads. The buttons have a centre pearl bead bordered by small glass beads surrounded by 9 smaller pearl beads and nine small pearl beads. Each button is edged with a row of tiny class beads with 18 points. The long sleeves are fully lined and made of two sections. The underneath section of the sleeve is ungathered and shaped at the elbow. The upper section of each sleeve is gathered at the shoulders and attached to the underneath section with a series of small pleats down to the elbow creating fullness. There is a small cap sleeve at each shoulder over the top of the gathered sleeve. The cap sleeves are edged with a frill of gathered silk ribbon with a decorative row of gathered silk ribbon parallel to the edge. At each wrist is a gathered frill of silk fabric edged with silk ribbon. Each sleeve has an 8 cm split at the wrist on the back seam. Full length ivory coloured silk skirt. The silk fabric has an all over pattern of scattered leaves. The skirt is fully lined with cotton fabric. The skirt is made of 5 pieces. The centre front panel has two darts at the waistline. The two side panels are cut on the bias and wrap around to form a centre back seam gathered into the waistband and finishing 44 cm below the waist line. Two triangular pieces of fabric are inserted at the back below the centre seam to complete the full circle of the skirt. There is 30 cm back opening. The waistband is made of cotton tape (3cm) fastened with two hooks and eyes with a 2 cm crossover. There is another hook and eye fastener halfway along the opening split. There is one upward facing hook on either side of the centre back opening to attach the matching bodice. The LHS of the back opening has a cotton fabric pocket inserted along the seam. The hem of the skirt is edged with two 5 cm frills of gathered silk fabric.