The kerosene lamp was one of the most common oil lamps used and was manufactured until the 1980s. This lamp is a wall-mounted model made in the likeness of a Victorian era lamp. The lamp is an example of a 19th and early 20th-century kerosene lamp that used kerosene for fuel. It has the option of being wall-mounted or used on a flat surface.Kerosene lamp with electro-plated tank and handle and shaped glass cover. The handle has holes for attachment to a wall bracket. warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, lamp, lighting, kerosene lamp, wall mounted model lamp

William Harvie was granted a patent in 1868 for improvements in the manufacture of lamps, lanterns and lenses for ships navigation and signal lamps 1868. Production began at 222 Broomielaw street Glasgow Scotland. Another patent was issued in 1873 for additional improvements to the companies lamps. Records show that in1873 William Harvie was in partnership with Malcolm Graham & Co, grease manufacturers and rosin distillers at 50 Anderson Street Gallowgate Glasgow. It appears around this time the business was transferred to George Moffat of 128 Garthland Drive Dennistoun Glasgow to continue under the same name (William Harvie & Co at premises situated at 100 East John St Gallowgate Glasgow. It is unclear but at some point W T George & Co were one in the same with William Harvie & Co. W T George made lamps with the trade name “Meteorite” and after gaining a patent for improvements to his lamps in 1941 the patent numbers were affixed to his lamps. In the Scottish Post Office annual Glasgow Directory 1900-1902 William Haveie & Co. Ltd is listed with two addresses; 222 Broomielaw and 24 McAlpine Streets, Glasgow. In the early 20th century the business moved to Birmingham until 1983 when the company went into voluntary liquidation after a meeting was held at Newhall Street Birmingham on the 10th January 1983 for WT George and William Harvie. This meeting was for the purposes regarding the insolvency of a company as set out in Sec 294 & 295 of the companies Act 1948 as a result Harvie & Co cease production of their products.An item made by a company that was an innovator of significant improvements in the manufacture of marine signal and navigation lamps during the late 19th and 20th centuries. Lamps made by this manufacturer are now sought after collector's items that are of significant value. Navigation lamp, round ship's lamp with clear glass and a red filter, handle at top, fitted with hinged and catch section at top to service lamp. Bracket at back for hanging lamp item painted red with black handles.Black nameplate is unreadable. Front reference plate reads " Meteorite" then "Meteorite No. 92276" warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, lamp, meteorite, william harvie, navigation lamp, kerosene lamp, signal lamp, marine equipment, marine navigation, w t george & co, george bocock & co, william harvie & co. ltd.

William Thomas George was born in Birmingham in 1884 and was a tin plate worker. He and his wife Ellene had a son Leslie Thomas George. The firm W T George & Co was formed sometime later. In 1939 his firm produced ship lamps. The Patent Number GB546575 on the lamp's plate was assigned to Leslie Thomas George in 1941 for improvements in, or relating to, ships' lanterns. From that time the patent number was affixed to their namufactured Meteorite lights. The ship navigation lamp is important as an example of the evolution of marine safety technology. Countries began passing laws and regulations in the 1830s that required ships to show navigation lights at night or in poor weather. From the late 1840s colours were standardised; red for portside of the vessel and green for starboard, a white masthead light, and a white light at anchor. By 1914 the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea was formed and continues, with decisions and notifications on improvements and changes.. Lamp; Portside ship's lamp is rounded in the front with two flat sides coming to a point at the rear. Glass has circular ridging. Metal handle with lid and clasp. The reflector has red colouring. Inscribed on fixed plates on the front, with maker's details and Patent number. This Meteorite lantern was made by W T George and Co Ltd, of Birmingham. "Port" "W T George and Co Ltd" "Sherlock Street Birmingham" "Meteorite 68990 Patented No 546575 and others pending"warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, portside ships lamp, portside, port lamp, ship's lamp, marine lamp, navigation lamp, w t george & co, coloured lens, red lens, ship fitting, marine technology, navigation light, signal lamp, leslie thomas george, gb546575, patent gb546575, meteorite, lantern, lamp, light

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

It is possible that this may have been a wedding present or gift to Roy Wines and or his family as his name is scratched on the bottom. Roy was married in 1924 in Warrnambool. Roy Arthur Wines was Born in 1897 in Mailors Flat Victoria Australia and Died in 1980 in Ballarat. Roy lived for a number of years in Warrnambool during his married life.A massed produced item that at the time was cheap to buy with no makers mark or date stamp thousands would have been produced using a mould to make the ceramic case in two half's by pouring liquid clay into the mould and then joining the half's together when cured. This item could have been produced in Holland at any number of pottery factories at this time for export in vast quantities.Ceramic clock; the mechanism is plated steel and set in a ceramic case with glass over the face. The ceramic base colour is white with royal blue ceramic colour to the front and sides only. The blue ceramic has been painted over with lime green house paint on the front and sides. An inscription of a handwritten name is on the case and a hard-to-read model or batch number is on the cast base. Handwritten "Roy Wines" Cast number "6072"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, clock, roy wines, ceramic, ceramic clock, horology, time keeper, travel clock, bedside clock, timepiece

Cut Glass Condiment Bottles - Vinegar bottle with glass stopper, Salt and Pepper with chromed plated lids, one perforated the other hinged through lid section is missing. The latter item is also corroding.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, cut glass condiment bottles, condiment bottles, condiments

D.C. Voltmeter 180-270 volt range. Black cylindrical shape, with partly chrome plated front cover and simi-circular glass window. Pointer indicator, semi-circular scale. This panel mount instrument is attached to a crudely varnished wooded stand for bench-top use. Serial Number 2172Vscientific instrument, ballarat school of mines, voltmeter

This balance was used at the Ballarat School of Mines. A two-pan beam balance, mounted on a wood base board. Housed in a timber-framed glass-sided cabinet. Aluminium pans. No balance weights. 25.5 beam length.33439 on back of beam support. Small plate on top of door: Townen and Mercer, Sydenybalance, scientific instrument, oertling

When glass disc spins the line visible through the front slit shows the movement of waves - sound , lightWooden frame - solid front with window slit. Open back with wooden cross bar. Spinning glass disc with a continuous black circular line - varying widths. One red line in one section. Metal plate on front " MADE SPECIALLY FOR H.B.SILBERBERG & CO MELBOURNE"optics, nipkow disc, glass disc, wave movement, scientific instrument

This is a three phase meter meaning it may have been used at the Ballarat School of Mines or a commercial building. Homes are only one phase meters. It would have been attached to the wall - possibly within a box. The rods on the bottom would be the securing points - these are removable.Black base on 6 long screw in rods - removable. These used to attach meter to wall or box. Glass sides (longer sides missing) Three phase watt-hour meterBlack plate on front with full details and makers information.three phase meter, polyphase meter, metropolitan vickers, united kingdom, commercial use, screw-in rods

The Cambridge Glass Company was chartered in 1873 by a group of Cambridge, Ohio businessmen. But it was not until 1899, when the site was purchased by the newly formed National Glass Company, that funds became available to start the construction of this new glass factory. n 1901, The Cambridge Glass Company was organized by the owners of the National Glass Company of Pennsylvania Arthur J. Bennett, a native of England, was hired to manage this new factory. Having experience in the china and glass trades. Many of the patterns were of Mr. Bennett's own design. Sometime around 1903-1904 the company's first trademark came into being, the words "Near Cut" pressed into the glass. Cambridge Glass soon became known worldwide for quality in both "crystal and colours, pressed and blown’. 1984. The National Cambridge Collectors purchased many of the moulds, all of the etching/decorating plates and other assets of Cambridge Glass from Imperial. The Cambridge Glass factory building was demolished in 1989A shallow factory made, frosted green glass vase. The central "frog" is a figurine in the shape of a draped lady, with ten holes at her base to hold flowers. The lady's shape is poorly moulded, indistinct and would have been cheaply made. No Makers Mark. Appears to be similar to vases made by Cambridge Glass Co, Ohio, America, (1901 - 1958), during the Depression. glassware, cambridge glass company, ohio, bennett arthur j., orme wilber l., national glass company, pennsylvania, imperial glass company, bellaire, pioneers, early settlers, herron john, bentleigh, market gardeners, moorabbin, cheltenham

Willcox and Gibbs: Serial No. 158679. The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company was founded in 1857 by James E. A. Gibbs and James Willcox and opened its London Office in 1859 at 135 Regent Street . By 1871 the Company's Chief Office for Europe was at 150 Cheapside, London, this office was later moved (post 1885) to 94 - 96 Wigmore Street, then 37 & 39 Moorgate Street (by 1891 to post 1907) and later 20 Fore Street, London . Right from the initial production the manufacturing of the Company's single thread, chain stitch machine was undertaken by Brown & Sharpe, Rhode Island and this continued up until 1948. A special hand crank mechanism was produced in England for the European market, but the general design of the Willcox & Gibbs remained essentially the same throughout its production. The only major improvement was in 1875 when the glass tension discs were replaced with an automatic tension device which ensured the machine could not get out of adjustment. In addition to the domestic hand and treadle machines the company produced a wide range of industrial models. The Company finally closed in 1973. This Willcox & Gibbs came complete with its wooden carry case. The machine was made in America in the late 1860's but it has the ornate hand crank produced at Coalbrookdale near Telford, England which was, in Victorian times, renown for producing high quality ornate iron castings. This machine has the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base casting and it also has a deep wooden base. The cloth plate has various American patent dates, four dating between 1857 & 1860 relating to J. E. A. Gibbs, three dating between 1860 & 1864 relating to Chas H. Willcox (son of James Willcox), the machine was also licensed under five other patents including the infamous Elias Howe patent of 1846. There are only two English patents one for J. E. A Gibbs and the other for James Willcox. In 1887 a W & G Sewing Machine sold in England for 6 pounds , with its box and bits, at a time when the average wage was less than 10/- shillings per week. The early settlers of Moorabbin Shire had to be self sufficient making their own clothes, tableware, bed coverings, furnishings and equipment. The women were skilled dressmakers and craft workers.Willcox and Gibbs: Serial No. 158679. A single thread, chain stitch Sewing Machine with a special hand crank mechanism produced in England for the European market, and the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. This Willcox & Gibbs came complete with its wooden carry case. The machine was made in America c1870 but it has the ornate hand crank produced at Coalbrookdale near Telford, England which was, in Victorian times, renown for producing high quality ornate iron castings. This machine has the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base casting and it also has a deep wooden base. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base castingsewing machines, early settlers, pioneers, moorabbin, brighton, gibbs james, willcox james, willcox henry, new york, america, dressmaking, mateial, machine makers, wrought iron work, telford england

City of Moorabbin was proclaimed 1934 and managed the areas of Cheltenham, Highett, Moorabbin, Bentleigh, East Bentleigh, East Brighton, McKinnon, Ormond until the Amalgamation of Councils in 1994. The City of Kingston then took over the area south of South Road while City of Glen Eira took the area to the north Kingston City Council possesses the original Mayoral Chain of former City of Moorabbin and it is displayed on the Moorabbin Mayoral Robe at KCC Office Cheltenham for the Annual Opening meeting of KCC in February . 2018 The Moorabbin Mayoral Robe was sent on 7 year loan to KCC for display at Cheltenham with the former City of Chelsea and former City of Mordialloc Mayoral Robes.Since the 1960s far-sighted community members have generously donated many significant items to the ‘Box Cottage’ museum, specifically to provide future generations with a fascinating, and tangible insight into day-to-day life from the 1800’s and up to the mid 1900's. Moorabbin City Council supported their efforts until the Amalgamation of Councils 1994. The City of Kingston donated the 1990 City of Moorabbin Mayoral Robes in 2007 Photograph of the City of Moorabbin Mayoral Chain circa 1990 in a glass covered, wooden frame Photograph of Mayoral Chain worn by Kingston City Council Mayor Steve Staikos, with Councillor Brownlees, in November 2018 when Robe and Jabot were loaned to KCC by CMHS Box Cottage MuseumPlate at base of photograph frame states ' City of Moorabbin Mayoral Chain /Manufactured By / P. Blashki & Sons Pty.Ltd'/moorabbin, kingston, mayors, glen eira, mayoral chain, moorabbin shire

The large, early, manual, ‘Punch-Clock’, (also known as a Time Clock), used by the Shire of Moorabbin employees to “clock-on and off” each working day circa late 1800s early 1900s.This 'Punch-Clock' was used by employees of the Shire of Moorabbin circa 1880 - 1900 and was donated to the City of Moorabbin Historical Society by the now defunct Moorabbin City Council in 1984.The large manual, ‘Punch-Clock’, (also known as a Time Clock), used by the Shire of Moorabbin employees to “clock-on and off” each working day circa late 1800s early 1900s. The clock face is exposed and the internal mechanism is encased in a wooden cupboard with two glass framed side panels. Right side panel is a door that accesses the clock mechanism.Around Centre of Clock face " DEY TIME REGISTERS LTD"/ "HOWARD BROS./ made in USA/ 75 Queen Victoria St./ LONDON E.C."/ On Brass plate at base are Patent registrations moorabbin, clocks, wages, punch clock

Manufactured by K. G. Luke Pty Ltd.In 1921 Kenneth Luke became a partner in a small metal-spinning and silverware business at Carlton. By 1925 he was its proprietor and an employer of seven. These employees were still with him thirty years later, with 650 others, making an ever-increasing range of products: silverware, stainless steel surgical equipment, plated goods and glass-washing machines. In 1929 he bought a larger factory in Queen's Parade, Fitzroy (since redeveloped), doubled his staff and introduced new lines. At the outbreak of World War 2 production was again stepped up and Luke became an honorary adviser to the Department of Supply and Shipping. Luke went on to achieve many major public roles. In 1938-55 he was president of the Carlton Football Club. A delegate (from 1935) to the Victorian Football League, he was its vice president (1946-55) and president (1956-71). With post-war growth generating record crowds, he consolidated central administration and professionalised the game for players.A Silver Plated Vase manufactured by K.G. Luke Pty Ltd.A1 - Paramount Plate - Best EPNS Quality Plate 4001-0paramount, k. g. luke pty ltd

The Kerosene lamp was one of the most common oil lamps used and was manufactured until the 1980s. The Anchor Lamp design was used for marine purposes in the days of sailing ships when a ship at anchor or sailing in the dark was required to display a white light on the top of its main mast. The Anchor Lamp's top loop was for a rope to hoist it up the mast, and ropes through the two bottom loops to anchor it in place and prevent it from swaying. The light could be seen by ships up to 20 miles away due to the magnification of the Fresnel glass lens. This lamp in our collection has a design is similar to the early marine designs but its finish and materials resemble lamps made in the 20th century to represent the older ones. The etched "20" on its cover could represent the 20-mile distance the light could shine, and the "↑" Broad Arrows could represent a maritime navy ship. The lamp is an example of 19th and early 20th-century Anchor Lamps fueled by kerosene and used onboard ships when at anchor or sailing at night.Kerosene lamp; This Anchor Lamp design has a brass frame, a handle with a loop at the top, a rail around the base two opposing loops, and a kerosene burner and tank with ventilation holes around it. A clear glass Fresnel 360-degree lens covers the burner. It is an All Round design. The brand Anchor is inscribed on a plate fixed to its brass cover. An etched inscription on the cover includes the Broad Arrow symbol identifying government property.Engraved plaque: "Anchor" brand. Etched into the metal: "↑20↑"warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, kerosene lamp, lighting, ship light, anchor lamp, marine technology, marine lamp, 20 mile light, broad anchor, oil lamp, whale oil lamp, ↑

This is the Bridge Section of a ship’s telegraph and is a Duplex Gong model, made by Chadburn & Son of Liverpool. This duplex gong model would sound two signals whenever the navigational commands were given by the ship’s pilot to change the speed or direction. The ship’s telegraph was installed on Flagstaff Hill’s exhibit of the 1909 Hobart, Tasmania, ferry “SS Rowitta” installed in 1975 and enjoyed for more than 40 years. Communication between the ship’s pilot and the engine room in the late 19th century to the mid-20th-century was made with a system called an Engine Order Telegraph (E.O.T.) or ship’s telegraph. The equipment has two parts, the Bridge Section and the Engine Room Section. The Bridge Section is usually mounted onto a pedestal, and the Engine Room Section is attached to a vertical surface. The standard marine commands are printed or stamped around the face of the dial and indicated by a pointer or arrow that is usually moved by a rotating brass section or handle. The ship’s pilot stationed on the Bridge of a vessel sends his Orders for speed and direction to the Engine Room with the E.O.T. He moves the lever or levers, depending on the number of engines the ship has, to change the indicator on the Bridge Section’s dial to point in the new direction and speed of travel. This change causes the Orders to be duplicated on the Engine Room Section’s dial and a bell or bells to signal the change at the same time. The engineer then adjusts the ship’s engines and steering equipment to follow the pilot’s Order. CHADBURN & SON, Liverpool- Chadburn Brothers, William and C.H., were joint inventors and well-established makers of optical and scientific instruments and marine gauges. The firm was granted the Prince Albert Royal Warrant in the late 19th century. In 1870 William Chadburn applied for a patent for his navigational communication device for use on ships. By 1875 Chadburn & Son was producing the brass Engine Order Telegraph in its plant at 71 Lord Street, Liverpool. In 1911 the ship RMS Titanic was launched, fitted with Chadburn & Sons E.O.T. The Chadburn Ship Telegraph Company Limited was registered in 1898 to take over Chadburn & Sons. In 1903 a large factory at Bootle, near Liverpool, and their products were being sold overseas. In 1920 electric-powered telegraphs were developed. In 1944 the name changed to Chadburn’s (Liverpool) Limited. In 1968 the company became Chadburn Bloctube Ltd. In 2000 the company, now Bloctube Marine Limited, was still manufacturing ship telegraphs. SS ROWITTA: - The 1909 steam ferry, SS Rowitta, was installed as an exhibit at Flagstaff Hill in 1975 and was enjoyed by many visitors for 40 years. Rowitta was a timber steam ferry built in Hobart in 1909 using planks of Huon and Karri wood. It was a favourite of sightseeing passengers along Tasmania’s Tamar and Derwent rivers for 30 years. Rowitta was also known as Tarkarri and Sorrento and had worked as a coastal trading vessel between Devonport and Melbourne, and Melbourne Queenscliff and Sorrento. In 1974 Rowitta was purchased by Flagstaff Hilt to convert into a representation of the Speculant, a historic and locally significant sailing ship listed on the Victorian Heritage Database. (The Speculant was built in Scotland in 1895 and traded timber between the United Kingdom and Russia. Warrnambool’s P J McGennan & Co. then bought the vessel to trade pine timber from New Zealand to Victorian ports and cargo to Melbourne. It was the largest ship registered with Warrnambool as her home port, playing a key role in the early 1900s in the Port of Warrnambool. In 1911, on her way to Melbourne, it was wrecked near Cape Otway. None of the nine crew lost their lives.) The promised funds for converting Rowitta into the Speculant were no longer available, so it was restored back to its original configuration. The vessel represented the importance of coastal traders to transport, trade and communication in Australia times before rail and motor vehicles. Sadly, in 2015 the time had come to demolish the Rowitta due to her excessive deterioration and the high cost of ongoing repairs. The vessel had given over 100 years of service and pleasure to those who knew her. This Bridge section of a ship’s Engine Order Telegraph, used with an Engine Room section, represents late-19th century change and progress in communication and navigation at sea. This type of equipment was still in use in the mid-20th century. The object is significant for its association with its maker, Chadburn & Son, of Liverpool, a well-known marine instrument maker whose work was recognised by English Royalty, and whose products were selected to supply similar equipment for use on the RMS Titanic. This ship’s telegraph is connected to the history of the Rowitta, which was a large exhibit on display at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village from the museum’s early beginnings until the vessel’s end of life 40 years later. The display was used as an aid to maritime education. The Rowitta represents the importance of coastal traders to transport, trade and communication along the coast of Victoria, between states, and in Australia before rail and motor vehicles. The vessel was an example of a ferry built in the early 20th century that served many different roles over its lifetime of over 100 years. Bridge section of a Ship’s Telegraph or Engine Order Telegraph (E.O.T.). The round double-sided, painted glass dial is contained within a brass case behind glass. It is fitted onto an outward tapering brass pedestal with a round base. The brass indicator arrows between the handles point simultaneously to both sides of the dial when moved. An oval brass maker’s plate is attached to the top of the case. The dial’s faces have inscriptions that indicate speed and direction, and the front face and plate include the maker’s details. A serial number is stamped on the collar where the dial is fitted to the pedestal. The ship’s telegraph is a Duplex Gong model, made by Chadburn & Son of Liverpool. Dial, maker’s details: “PATENT “DUPLEX GONG” TELEGRAPH / CHADBURN & SON / TELEGRAPH WORKS / PATENTEES & MANUFACTURERS / 11 WATERLOO ROAD / LIVERPOOL” LONDON / 105 FENCHURCH STREET” “NEWCASTLE / 85 QUAY + SIDE” “GLASGOW / 69 ANDERSON QUAY” “PATENT” Dial instructions: “FULL / HALF/ SLOW / FINISHED WITH ENGINES / STOP STAND BY / SLOW / HALF / FULL / ASTERN / AHEAD” Maker’s plate: “CHADBURN / & SON / PATENT / LIVERPOOL” Serial number: “22073”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, engine order telegraph, e.o.t., navigational instrument, communication device, ship’s telegraph, engine room section, bridge section, rms titanic, chadburn & son, chadburn brothers, william chadburn, chadburn ship telegraph company, chadburns, duplex gong, liverpool, ss rowitta, navigation, marine technology, pilot’s orders, steam power, hobart, tasmania, devonport, tasmanian-built, ferry, steam ferry, steamer, 1909, early 20th century vessel, passenger vessel, tamar trading company, launceston, george town, sorrento, tarkarri, speculant, peter mcgennan, p j mcgennan & co. port phillip ferries pty ltd, melbourne, coastal trader, timber steamer, huon, karri, freighter, supply ship, charter ferry, floating restaurant, prawn boat, lakes entrance

Black and white photo on brown card of 5 males and 1 female figures in front of Queens Corner. Tourer car on left and motor bike, 'Cricket, Tennis, Golf, Barnet Glass Tyres. J.D.Kerr Cycle & Sports Specialist, Petrol Bowser to left of photograph. Inscription: In Image on Building 'Queens Corner/…All Cricket, Tennis, Golf, Barnet Glass Tyres, Football, Cricket, Tennis'. 'J.D.Kerr / Cycle & Sports Specialist', 'Kerr Cycles'. Number Plate on Motor Cycle '17211'. See Research field for further information.organization, business, j.d.kerr cycle & sports specialist, kerr, james david.

Small red tin plate kerosene childs night light commonly called Pixie lamps, base filled with gravel or sand to prevent tipping over, small milk white glass chimney, brass burner complete with wick.Wick winder reads GWB British madelighting, kerosine & oil, kerosene

Cream tin plate German alarm clock, silvered dial with black and gold hands & numerals Brass bezel, legs and handle, convex glass.Schuler made in Germanyhorology, clocks, alarm

Black tin plate alarm clock with two tone cream and white dial labelled Westclox America, black hands and numerals, convex glass and chrome bezel.RD1932 Made in Canada made by Western Clock Co Limited Peterborough Canada.horology, clocks, alarm

Myer also in Adelaide, South Australia, Australia. Rectangular clear glass bottle with a cork lined platic or Bakelite screw top, paper label and numerals embossed on the base.'F108' and other indistinct figures, possibly E46 in reverse and 'M' embossed on base. Paper label in blue, white and red with text and illustration of large red chemist shop bottle. 'Given internally as a Antiseptic and used when diluted as a Mouth Wash.....Sore and Cracked Skins'. HENRY FRANCIS & CO CHEMISTS MYER EMPORIUM LTD MELBOURNE-ADELAIDE'.glycerine, medical, myer

This item was purchased at Leski's, Melbourne, Medical collection auction, 8 May 2013. The incubator was part of a rare collection of medical, dental and pharmaceutical objects belonging to a tourism business, Kryal Castle, near Ballarat, Victoria from 1974. At some point,apparently, an officer manager discarded the museum records, so the provenance of the neonatal incubator, and many other items in the Leski auction, has been lost.Neonatal incubator, "Glenleigh", made and used, late 1950s- early 1960s. The four side laminated panels as well as bottom panel are possibly made of asbestos fibreboard,. Each panel is sealed with polished aluminium strips, and has a metal handrail.The incubator is mounted on four castors made by "Shepherd USA'. On the front panel is a bakerlite dial and a bakerlite switch. The item is incomplete: the cover, probably glass, is missing. Inside the unit is an old calico infant's mattress.There are two name plates on the front panel; “Australia/ Victor Watson/Limited/ New Zealand” and "Glenleigh/ Baby Incubator/ Aeronautical & Industrial Lighting Co/ 677-9 North Road Carnegie”. Australia/ Victor Watson/Limited/ New Zealand” "Glenleigh/ Baby Incubator/ Aeronautical & Industrial Lighting Co/ 677-9 North Road Carnegie”. Castors::"Shepherd USA'

The Phoebus is a fibreglass composite sailplane that was designed by H. Nagele, R. Linder and R. Eppler in the early 1960s for competition flying. It is a derivative from the Akaflieg Stuttart Phonix which was the first sailplane to be built of fibreglass. The first Phoebus, a Standard Class design with a 15 metre wingspan, flew in 1964. The Phoebus C is the open class version of the type that was introduced in 1967. It has a 17 metre wing span, retractable wheel and tail brake parachute. Several hundred Phoebus sailplanes (all versions) were made by the manufacturer Bolkow at Ottobrun in Germany before production ended in 1970. The Museum’s Phoebus C, serial number 866, was built in 1969. It was donated to the Museum by Ian Cohn in 2008. Early fibreglass design that was manufactured in numbers. The Phoebus is a modern looking single seat glass fibre sailplane with a ‘T’ tailplane. It is finished in white with light red detailing including thin red stripe on wings and some red striping on fuselage sides from nose to underneath wings.Serial number 866 on plate affixed inside cockpit – registration VH-GSW which has been painted on the sides of the fuselage rear of the wings. A Freistaat Bayern crest has been applied to each side of the vertical stabilizer. australian gliding, glider, sailplane, bolkow, phoebus, cohn, nagele, linder, eppler

St James Church, "Church of the Pioneers", was the first Church, first Anglican Church, and is the oldest building in Melbourne. The foundation stone was laid in 1839 by the Superintendent of the District of Bourke, Charles La Trobe, later Governor of the Colony of Victoria. The Church was opened in 1842 and the first Bishop Charles Perry was installed in the Cathedral in 1848 when its status changed to that of Cathedral. Its status changed back to that of a Parish church after 1891 when St Paul's Cathedral in Swanston Street was opened. St James is known as the "Church of the Pioneers" as it served as the place of worship, marriage, baptism and burial of many of the first families in the District of Bourke and the Colony of Victoria. St James Old Cathedral is of the most important historic value to the community of Victoria and to the Australian nation as the first Anglican Church founded within 4 years of the settlement of Melbourne. It represents and conserves the very earliest history of white settlement in Victoria and preserves the church associated history of the Pioneer families of Victoria in its collection of original records and artefacts. Late Neo-Georgian style stone church building with bluestone footings. Octagonal upper one storey bell tower housing eight bells supported by two storey square towers. Body of church has sloping roof and 4 stained glass ornamental windows on each of west and east sides with decorative sanctuary window to the north. Decorative Portico with columns on the north outside elevation. National Trust Commemorative plate on outside wall to right of east entry door.