This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 1000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Blue glazed ceramic jug. If you can assist with information on this artist or artwork please use the comment box below.art, artwork, anne cogger, ceramics, available, tafe ceramics collection

Inhalation JugCeramic jug with spoutinhalation, jug, ballarat

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

A typical enamel jug used by families in City of Moorabbin for measuring liquids for cooking and preserving c1970A typical enamel measuring jug used by families in City of Moorabbin c1970A cream enamel jug with a green rim graduated measurements 40 oz, 2 pints, 1000gramsInside jug graduated measurements 40oz, 2 pints 1000gms kitchen equipment, cooking, crockery, casserole, stewed meat, vegetables,post world war 11 settlers, moorabbin estates c1970, early settlers , market gardeners, moorabbin shire, bentleigh, cheltenham,

Jug, ceramic white glaze, relief decoration, ornate handle. Stamped with IBH England.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic white glaze, ceramic jug, ibh england.

This small white jug was probably created as a souvenir of Mortlake. Its depiction of the 'Soldier's Monument' (War Memorial completed 1920), is quite accurate and perhaps reflects the importance of such monuments in small country towns. Memorials created in many country towns, cities and suburbs after the Great War, reflected civic pride and were created in recognition of the sacrifice of so many men in defence of the realm. Mortlake's 'Soldier's Memorial' is typical of many such memorials Australia wide. It forms one part of the Mortlake's tribute, the others being the Soldiers' Memorial Hall (which incorporates the old Mechanics' Institute) and the Avenue of Honour (cypress) along the Hamilton Highway on the eastern side of the town. Small glazed white jug, with gold rim, handle; transfer picture of the Mortlake War Memorial - showing plinth, column, soldier and fence with backdrop of mature trees. Captioned: 'Soldier's Monument Mortlake'. On base: 'Melba Bone China (followed by crown insignia) Guaranteed Made In England.'1914, 1918, world, war, memorial, memorials, mortlake, souvenirs

Unopened cream and tan jug depicting three badges of Commendation/Citation and three medals GSM Sth Vietnam, Aust Vietnam Medal and Vietnamese Campaign Medalcommemorative port

The beginning of standardised weights and measures began In Victoria when the Melbourne Observatory received sets of standard weights and measures, which had been tested in Britain against the then British Imperial standards. These included the primary standard yard and pound for the Colony of Victoria. Other standards of weights and measure held by shires and the administrative body's within the colony could then be compared to these primary standards. A Weights and Measures Act was passed in Victoria in 1862, establishing local inspectors throughout the colony. By the 1870s each local council and shire in Victoria held a set of standards that were used to test scales, weights and dry measures used by wholesalers, factories and shops. Every ten years the councils’ standards would themselves need to be rechecked against the Victorian Standards. The checking was done by the Victorian Customs Department in the 19th century, but with the transfer of responsibility for customs to the Federal Government in 1901, weights and measures function was retained by the Victorian Government and was shifted to the Melbourne Observatory. In 1904, a new building was erected at the south end of the Great Melbourne Telescope House, where the standard weights and measures and testing equipment was installed. This room had a large whirling apparatus for testing air meters and became known as the Whirling Room. When the Melbourne Observatory closed in 1944, the Weights and Measures Branch was formed to continue and this branch remained at the Observatory site unit until 1995.An example of a brass measuring jug made specifically to maintain government standard liquid measurements that were sold to the public. The probability is that this artefact was made sometime between George V reign (1910-1936) and gives us today a snapshot of how imperial weights and measures were checked by Government departments prior to decimalisation and how a standard for the various types of measurement was developed in Australian based on the Imperial British measurement system. The container has social significance as an item used in Victoria as a legal standard measure to ensure that goods sold in Victoria were correct. Jug brass haystack form with a deep lip and pouring spout, small neck and broad base. It displays a curved pistol handle. Inscription at base of handle top of jug stamped 61 GVR SM. These marks signify that the measure complied with the Victorian Government capacity liquid standard measurement. Item made during the reign of George V (1910-1936 (GVR).Other marks indicate model number (61) & SM possible could be either small measure, the maker, or Standards Melbourne.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Blue and beige coloured decanter with a cork stopper. Top is dark blue with handle. Bottom half is beige with Wallaby Airlines printed in blue ink. Has RAAF emblem with RTFV underneath a Caribou (DHC-4) and 35 SQN emblem. Vietnam 1964-1972 First In Last Out written in blue along bottom.Vietnam 1964-1972 First in Last Out qrittenn in blue along bottom. On reverse of Jug is the story of RAAF Transport Flight Vietnam and No 35 Squadron RAAF. Known as WAllaby Airlinesvietnam history - 1945 - 1975, raaf, bottles, 35 squadron, wallaby airlines

Cream china Jug with three gold and two blue decorative lines painted around top, one gold line down handle. Small spout, angled handle.H. Aynsley & Co. Ltd. England' Painted on base, 'Made in England' imprinted on basedomestic items, food & drink consumption, jug, milk, stripes, china, h. aynsley, cream, england

The Percy Uebergang family lived at Tooram Park, Allansford from 1912 until 1992. The jug was part of the collection of kitchen items given into the care of the Cheese World Museum. Uebergang catalogue No.H553Royal Doulton china jug with a shallow pouring lip and cream handle. The outside is fully decorated in brown and green colours with a leaf pattern around the neck and below is a wooden building among trees with figures dancing around.Royal Doulton/D2780/England/H553domestic items, food & drink consumption, allansford, uebergang, royal doulton, jugs, crockery

Jug (cruet) conical shaped solid copper with handle and spout, crucifix embossed at side, Made in England by J S and S. 2 imprinted on base centre.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, cruet

Jug, copper jug with large lip and metal handle. Heavily covered in verdigris.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

RAAF China Jugephemera, recent, raaf

Photograph of the "Whatmough Jug". Mr Robert Whatmough operated an orchard and commercial nursery on the property 'Willis Vale' at Greensborough and was related to Charles Partington by marriage. [Photo taken late 20th Century]The Whatmough family were Greensborough pioneers. Descendants still live locally.Digital copy of colour photograph.whatmough jug, whatmough family

Part of dinner set owned by donor's grandmother Martha Edwards, 42 Husband Road, Forest HillSee NA4389.1-2 for significance of makerCream crockery jug, gold rim, decorative deep handle, black key pattern and brown floral band around jug.Burleigh Ware, Burgess & Leigh, Burslam, England (4246)domestic items, crockery

Glass jug with handle and fluted lipglass technology, glassware

Milk jug ' Wedgwood' Blue with white decoration(On base) 1172/A/12/ PAXTON/1/12/82domestic items, crockery

Brown china Lord Kitchener Souvenir jug.character jugs

A cylindrical metal jug with a handle and metal lid. It contains seeds.jug container domestic

Used by Myrtle Bennett, Aunt of donor from 1939 to 1998.Green glass jug with pint and ounce measurements calibrated on sidedomestic items, food preparation

Brown China jug, with handle. Has pattern on bottom section.jugs

Over 1500 pottery firms have operated in Stoke-on-Trent since the early 1700's - Some lasted only a few years and some for well over 200 years. Some potters built and owned their own works. Many others were tenants in works built by others and a succession of potters occupied the same works. It was also a common practice for a works to be split between two different pottery companies or for a larger manufacturer to let out a smaller section of his works to a potter who would make wares which were not of interest to the pot works owner. Some potters purchased 'blanks' from other manufacturers and put their own decoration on them some items have two back stamps some have no marks at all. This adds to the confusion and frustration of trying to trace details of a particular manufacturer such as the subject item.A mid to late 19th century ironstone jug with no makers markings only a date letter therefore at this time cannot be associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance regards maker is unknown, item assessed as a collection asset given it was produced before 1950.Jug, white Earthenware with leaf decoration around the base, handle and lip.Letter "E" date mark for 1881flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, ceramic jug, drink ware, kitchen ware, table ware, ceramic, pottery, milk jug, cream jug, ironstone jug

Used in Methodist Church, Wandin, Victoria, Australia.Brass jug with a handle and decorative floral design around the top half"Germany Halah" stamped on the basejugs

Jug galvanised with rounded top-handle at back. 3 gallon GV.78flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Piece of the bottom of a white ceramic milk jug. Has QUEENS WARE markingflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

This is an example of a late 19th century item commonly found in a bedroom of a comfortable home.Large ceramic bedroom water jug, Beige in colour with gold enscribing. Rim is scalloped.ceramic jug porcelain

Collected from Eastern Emergency NetworkHeavy glass measuring jug with imperial measures from two pints to 40 ounces.1/4 PT - 2 PT; 5 OZ - 40 OZdomestic items, cooking, glass technology, bottles