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Federation University Historical Collection
Photograph - black and white, Frank Wright, mid 1900s
Frank Wright was a renoun resident of Smeaton, where he was born on 2 August 1901. He lived at Laura Villa, and attended Smeaton State School. His father William was a gold miner and his mother's name was Sarah. Their family won many singing and instrumental awards. Frank was tutored by Percy Code and was awarded a gold medal for the highest marks in the ALCM examinations in the British Colonies at the age of seventeen years. He became the Australian Open Cornet Champion by the age of eighteen. A year later, Frank conducted the City of Ballarat Band, and later the Ballarat Soldiers’ Memorial Band. He formed the Frank Wright Frisco Band and Frank Wright and his Coliseum Orchestra. These bands won many South Street awards, and Frank as conductor won many awards in the Australian Band Championship contest. In 1933 Frank Wright sailed to England to conduct the famous St Hilda’s Band and was later appointed Musical Director of the London County Council, where he organized many amazing concerts in parks, in and around the London district. He was made Professor of Brass and Military Band Scoring and conducted at the Guildhall of Music and Drama. Frank was often invited to adjudicate Brass Band Championships around Europe, in Australia, including South Street and in New Zealand. The Frank Wright Medal at the Royal South Street competition is awarded to an individual recognized as making an outstanding contribution to brass music in Australia. He died on 16 November 1970.Black and white photograph of a man dressed in a light jacket and trousers, carrying a brief case. He is standing at the entrance of building with a wide doorway which has an ornate carving over the door frame. A light and dark chequer board tiled floor can be seen inside. Thick vine covers the outer wall above the door. The man is Frank Wright.frank wright, composer, adjudicator, musician -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Glenelg Shire Council Cultural Collection
Photograph, n.d
Port of Portland Authority Archivesport of portland archives -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Document - BARBARA MAMOUNEY COLLECTION: NEWSPAPER ARTICLE ON SPECIMEN COTTAGE
Newspaper feature from Bendigo Advertiser Tues January 12 2016 and image of Specimen Cottage before restoration in 1970s It was built by stonemason James Brierley for his family Is now the front of house and display centre for The Bendigo Historical Society and is arguably the oldest building in the city with 1856 shown above the front door Near the corner of Hargreaves and Mundy St The building has two parts The 1856 section is single storey with front façade of locally sourced sandstone rubble with dressed quoins and dressings to openings, side walls are of rubble the rear and interior walls are of red brick a central front door a window on either side The roof which was probably hipped, was later joined to the next wall of the 1861 section and is partly covered with Morewood and Rogers metal tiles with partly corrugated iron The 1861 section was built to match the earlier one Across the first floor of the 1861 section is an elegantly detailed cantilevered timber balcony with a hived concave roof and two French windows opening onto it Bendigo Historical Society members Barbara Poustie and Carol Holsworth have led tours of the cottage as part of the 'Summer in the parks' program A plaque on the corner of Hargreaves and Mundy indicates that there once stood the Royal Princess Hotel, also built by Brierley, Bendigo Historical Society members have continued research on the Brierley familyhistory, australian, bendigo, architecture, specimen cottage royal princess hotel built by james brierly in 1856 barbara proustie carol holsworth -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Photograph - CONSERVATORY BUILDING, PALL MALL, BENDIGO
Sepia image mounted on board: image shows glass and metal building, walls of building consist of glass and metal panels. Building is surrounded by low level garden edged in pottery tiles. Conservatory building, Conservatory Gardens, Pall Mall, Bendigo.bendigo, buildings, conservatory, bendigo, pall mall, conservatory gardens, conservatory -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Photograph - HOUSE: ART DECO, C 1930
black and white photo. Mounted on soft manilla card. Image is of double fronted villa. Double gabled tiled roof, single rough cast chimney, buttressed arched verandah. Rectangular vent in shingled area above triple leadlighted double hung bow window, brick walls, stepped wide entry verandah. Brick/concrete fence.buildings, residential, art deco -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Photograph - SPIRE
Black and white photo: roof top scene, with tile roof in foreground, ornate spire in centre with clock face. Building behind has corrugated iron wall.buildings, commercial, spire -
Dutch Australian Heritage Centre Victoria
Framed Tile
... in The Netherlands with tiles produced for walls and floors as well ...Tile baking has long been an important industry in The Netherlands with tiles produced for walls and floors as well as at individual requests to commemorate an event or special occasion.A white ceramic tile hand painted in brown with figures of a farming couple from Brabant, a verse, a coat of arms, the words "Noord-Brabant" and various decorative designs. Faintly visible on the back are the ink-stamped words: "plateelbakkerij schoonhoven" (a ceramics factory in Schoonhoven). A handwritten inscription reads: "Sjaan en Ad van Wanrooy, Erp, Nederland. 30 November 1980".tiles, dutch, brabant -
Dutch Australian Heritage Centre Victoria
Wall Tile (Tegel)
... Wall Tile (Tegel)... for hanging has been affixed to the back. Wall Tile (Tegel) ...Square off-white tile depicting a traditionally clad farmer's wife holding a basket of eggs and watching a hen running from her newly-laid egg. There appears also a proverb written In dialect: "Je kan d'eiers nie telle, vòdat je z'in 't bènnetje eit." (You can't count your eggs till they're in the basket.) A decorative border surrounds the scene and includes © with the initials R.S. The illustrations and wording are in brown. A hook for hanging has been affixed to the back.On the back the tile is inscribed MOSA HOLLAND and bears the numbers 213. -
Dutch Australian Heritage Centre Victoria
Wall Tile (Tegel)
... Wall Tile (Tegel)... of an imprint. There is also a hook for hanging. Wall Tile (Tegel ...Tiles are formed using the using the same tools as four centuries ago, namely a knife and a wooden mould with little nails in the corners. Afterwards, the imprints of the nails remain visible as minute points in the glaze. After the first baking, the tile is glazed. The wet glaze is imprinted with a charcoal powder design. Then the painter redraws the lines with a fine paint brush and uses his own craftsmanship to color with paints that are in fact glazes colored by a metal oxide. The second baking blends these colors with the layer of tin glaze. The result is a unique and beautiful tile. Tile design, making and baking is a traditional Dutch craft and continues today. The province of Friesland has its own traditions in the field of which this tile is a sample.Off-white pottery tile with blue coloured proverb in the Frisian language. There are also some blue glaze decorations in the four corners. On the back the brand name Harlingen Holland forms part of an imprint. There is also a hook for hanging.The proverb reads: "Doch dyn plicht en lit de lju mar rabje." (Do your duty and just let people talk). -
Dutch Australian Heritage Centre Victoria
Wall Tile (Tegel)
... Wall Tile (Tegel)... applique has been stuck on the top surface. Wall Tile (Tegel) ...The Japanese occupied present day Indonesis from 7-12-1941 to 15-8-1945. Indonesia was a Dutch colony at the time and Dutch Indonesians were imprisoned, starved and otherwise treated with great cruelty.This tile is of importance as a reminder of the War in the Pacific and the suffering of Dutch colonials during the Japanese occupation.A small, simply coloured ceramic tile commemorating the liberation of the Dutch East Indies on August 15, 1945. An illustrated paper applique has been stuck on the top surface.The following words and phrases are recorded on the paper applique: 15 augustus 1945; NED. INDIE VRIJ; nooit vergeten (never forget). The dates 7-12-1941and 15-8-1945 record the time of Japanese occupation. The tile is further illustrated with a map of the (now) Indonesian islands; two cut lines of barbed wire and two triumphant lions. -
Uniting Church Archives - Synod of Victoria
Plaque - Wall plaque
Catherine Ritchie House was opened on 19th December 1991 at 10 Glamis street, Mount Martha for the use of Presbyterian Deaconesses. Catherine Ritchie was the Principal of Rolland House, the Presbyterian Deaconess and Missionary Training Institute at 97 Rathdown street, South Melbourne. Catherine Ritchie was Principal at Rolland House from 1945 - 1968. Deaconess Blanche Boyd was the Principal of the Presbyterian Deaconess and Missionary Training College from 1914 to 1923, she died in 1944. Deaconess Greve was known as both Winnie and Minnie. She died in Adelaide in 1944.Cream coloured ceramic tile memorial plaque in a stained wood frame. The plaque has brown text."TO THE GLORY OF GOD AND IN LOVING MEMORY OF DEACONESS BLANCHE BOYD FORMER PRINCIPAL OF THIS COLLEGE THE VICTORY WINDOW WAS GIVEN BY STUDENTS AND FRIENDS THE LEADERSHIP WINDOW BY DEACONESS WINNIE GREVE"presbyterian deaconess blanche boyd, presbyterian deaconess winnie greve, presbyterian deaconess minnie greve, catherine ritchie house mount martha -
Villa Alba Museum
Book, William Morris : décor and design, 1991
William Morris : décor and design. Elizabeth Wildhide (ed.) Harry N. Abrams, 1991. 192 pages. Information on pattern-matching, wall and window treatments, floor coverings, tiles and furnishingsnon-fictionWilliam Morris : décor and design. Elizabeth Wildhide (ed.) Harry N. Abrams, 1991. 192 pages. Information on pattern-matching, wall and window treatments, floor coverings, tiles and furnishingswallpapers - history, interior decoration - history, wall coverings - history -
Hume City Civic Collection
Photograph, c. 1980's
The original single storey hotel was built by the vigneron, F. F. Bubeck. The hotel was destroyed by fire in 1901 and the present red brick building was built by George Millett. The hotel provided meals and accommodation for rail travellers.A coloured photograph of the Royal Hotel which is situated on the sw corner of Brook and Evans Streets. A grey car is angle parked on the LHS of the photograph and there is a line of plane treet around the curbside. The 2 storey hotel has red brick walls with cream trim around the windows and blue shutters on the windows on the upper storey. The roof is clad with terracotta tiles. Facing Brook and Evans Streets on the roof line are the parapets with the words 'Royal Hotel' on them.ROYAL HOTELevans street, brook street, bubeck, f.f., millett, george, royal hotel, george evans collection -
Hume City Civic Collection
Photograph, early 1990s
The weatherboard house is one of the six weatherboard cottages which were built on the east side of O'Shanassy Street in the early 1900s. It has been listed in the Heritage Study in 1998. Scheduled as having some significance and recommended for further investigation.A coloured photograph of a weatherboard Victorian cottage with an overhanging verandah across the double fronted building. The weatherboard walls are painted biscuit and the window and door frames are tan. A wooden tile trim painted in biscuit, tan and dark green. There are two stepped chimneys protruding from the white painted corrugated iron roof. The overgrown garden has low growing trees and shrubs.george evans collection -
Sunshine and District Historical Society Incorporated
WUNDERLICH TILE, Wunderlich Limited, Circa 1965
In the Sunshine Advocate of 21/03/1925 it is reported that Wunderlich Ltd decided to establish works in Sunshine for the manufacture of terra cotta and faience for the facing of city buildings. The product was intended to imitate granite, which would give a brighter appearance to concrete walls. A stone surface finish to the terra cotta could be achieved by applying a variety of colour combinations of glazes with a special 'spackle' gun. A building that is still standing and has the imitation granite finish terra cotta is the Nicholas Building at 21 - 47 Swanston Street, Melbourne. The Nicholas Building was designed by Harry Norris for Alfred Nicholas (Aspro fame), and was built during 1925 - 1926. The building is classified by the National Trust (B4079) and has the Victorian Heritage Register (H2119). During my employment in the factory from 1964 to 1969 the tiles were generally faced with single colour glazes. For some small jobs a light coloured mottled finish was achieved by spattering a white glaze over a cream coloured background or vice versa. There were no imitation granite jobs done, probably because of changing attitudes to the intended appearance of buildings. The green coloured tile in our collection is an unfinished (untrimmed) retain tile typical of the green coloured tiles that were made for the two stages of the Commonwealth Centre Building (colloquially known as the Green Latrine), that was once located on the corner of Spring and Victoria Streets in Melbourne. Similar coloured tiles were also used on some shop fronts. The Commonwealth Centre Building no longer exists, however the Century Building at 125 - 133 Swanston Street, Melbourne is covered with single coloured tiles (white). The Century Building was built in 1939, with the architect being Marcus Barlow. The Building is classified by the National Trust (B4045). Our tile along with several others were headed for dumping among the asbestos waste at the rear of the two Wunderlich factories (Circa 1968). With permission from the Factory Superintendent of the Terra Cotta factory they were saved and taken home. Several are still in use as pavers around a barbecue in Melton from where our tile was obtained. It should be noted that the Wunderlich Architectural Terra Cotta factory in Sunshine did not manufacture terra cotta roofing tiles, as reported in the Brimbank City Council Post-contact Heritage Study HO 073 former Wunderlich now West End Market. Wunderlich terra cotta roofing tiles were manufactured at their factory in Mitcham Road, Vermont. Document HO 073 contains at least 3 errors. Other References: (1). http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74726224. (2). Armstrong, J. 'Investigating the historic and current use, manufacture and conservation of architectural terra cotta and faience USA & UK'. This tile is an example of the type of facing that was applied to city buildings for over 40 years from the mid 1920's. As building techniques changed the need for this type of facing diminished, and so the factory was eventually sold and demolished. A free standing tall chimney stack which serviced two of the kilns was a significant feature of the North Sunshine skyline. A part of the history of Sunshine disappeared with the demolition of the factory and the chimney stack. Only the façade of the finishing section of the factory where tiles were trimmed and stored remains. Off-white/beige architectural terra cotta tile with green coloured vitreous glaze on the face of tile. The rear of tile is ribbed. wunderlich limited, terra cotta, architectural, commonwealth centre, spring street, sunshine, mcintyre, victoria street, faience, faence, imitation granite, nicholas building, century building -
Nillumbik Shire Council
Ceramic (tiles): Tom SANDERS, Untitled, c. 1970s early
Sanders was a well-known local potter who worked for a time with David Boyd at the Martin Boyd Pottery, before returning to Melbourne where he had some association with Arthur Boyd, at the pottery in Murrumbeena. Sanders set up a studio in Eltham in the early 1950s and made the first of a series of architectural ceramic murals with painter and print maker Lawrence Daws in 1956. After returning from his travels in Europe to Australia in 1964, he began to work solely on creating ceramic murals. Murals created during the second half of the 1960s and into the 70s can/could previously be found at Southland Shopping Centre in Cheltenham, Melbourne (1968) - now demolished, the National Mutual Centre, Melbourne (1964-5) - now demolished, Dee Why Library, Sydney (1966), Woden Valley High School, ACT (1967), Tullamarine Airport, Melbourne (1969, 1970), Perth Concert Hall (1971) and University of Melbourne (1975) (with John Olsen). Sanders has worked with many of Australia’s pre-eminent painters and ceramicists including Fred Williams and John Olsen. In 2015 Nillumbik Shire Council will be installing a mural by Sanders, donated by Tom and his family before Tom passed away in 2009, for the redevelopment of the Eltham Town Square. During the 1970s Sanders produced a number of tapestry designs. Highly respected artist and one time local resident Hilary Jackman worked with Sanders developing and adapting his tile designs to be translated into silk tapestries that were made in Japanese Mills of Kawashima Orimono in Kyoto. They were displayed in the big Hall in the NGV. Sanders gave these tiles to Jackman as payment for her work. The tapestries are based on abstract designs and have a cotton warp, and silk weft. The tiles are similar to Sanders’ other mural works such as Wall of the Moon (Homage to Miro) and the mural located in the Perth Concert Hall. It’s clear that Sanders was inspired by the Spanish surrealist artist Joan Miro from the 1930s in both philosophy and style. Miro’s work is quite playful, symbolic and imaginative. Miro’s preference for painting like this was “to express contempt for conventional painting methods, which he saw was a way of supporting a bourgeois society”. He "famously declared an "assassination of painting" in favor of upsetting the visual elements of established painting.” Three earthenware tiles, embossed with an abstract linear design. N/A -
Nillumbik Shire Council
Public Art: Tom SANDERS (b.1925-d.2008 Vic, Aus), Tom Sanders, Wall of the Moon (Homage to Miro) - (Location: Eltham Town Square, Arthur Street, Eltham), 1968
... are layered onto matte black and shiny bronze tiles. Wall of the Moon ...Sanders was a well-known local potter who worked for a time with David Boyd at the Martin Boyd Pottery, before returning to Melbourne where he had some association with Arthur Boyd, at the pottery in Murrumbeena. Sanders set up a studio in Eltham in the early 1950s and made the first of a series of architectural ceramic murals with painter and print maker Lawrence Daws in 1956. In 1957 he left for Europe and while there was inspired by the Spanish artist Joan Miro’s unconventional painting style and large scale murals, in particular Wall of the Moon (1957). After returning from his travels in Europe to Australia in 1964, he began to work solely on creating ceramic murals, some of which were commissioned for Southland Shopping Centre in Cheltenham, Melbourne, 1968 (now demolished), the National Mutual Centre, Melbourne,1964-5 (now demolished), Dee Why Library, Sydney 1966, Woden Valley High School, ACT, 1967, Tullamarine Airport Melbourne, 1969-70 (now demolished), Perth Concert Hall, 1971 and The University of Melbourne,1975 (with John Olsen). This mural is one of only three remaining in the public realm by Tom Sanders (the others are at the Perth Concert Hall (1971) and at the University of Melbourne (1975). Ceramic mural (earthenware tiles) consisting of a playful/organic abstract design similar in style to the Spanish artist Joan Miro. Shades of blue, yellow and black glazes are layered onto matte black and shiny bronze tiles. N/Amural, public art, earthernware, pottery, ceramics, glaze, eltham, ekphrasis2017, eltham town square, joan miro -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Article, 1930's Mansion Built For Tile King, 21/06/2000 12:00:00 AM
... Tesselated Tile Co. Pty Ltd Walling Edna Walker Stanley Gibbs Claude ...Article in Gazette Property Weekly about 'Glenhowan'., the mansion built by the 'Tile King', Australian Tesselated Tile Company, about 1934. The property is up for auction. The garden was inspired by Edna Walling, Architect Claude Browse Gibbs.Article in Gazette Property Weekly about 'Glenhowan', the mansion built by the 'Tile King', Australian Tesselated Tile Company, about 1934. The property is up for auction. The garden was inspired by Edna Walling, Architect Claude Browse Gibbs.Article in Gazette Property Weekly about 'Glenhowan'., the mansion built by the 'Tile King', Australian Tesselated Tile Company, about 1934. The property is up for auction. The garden was inspired by Edna Walling, Architect Claude Browse Gibbs.mitcham road, mitcham, no. 456-460 glenhowan, australian tesselated tile co. pty ltd, walling, edna, walker, stanley, gibbs, claude chipton browse -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Article, Council votes to save Walker site, 24/12/1997 12:00:00 AM
... australian tesselated tile co pty ltd walling edna allan peter ...Whitehorse Council last week voted to include the historic Walker EstateCutting from Whitehorse Gazette 24/12/1997 informing that Whitehorse Council last week voted to include the historic Walker Estate on its list of protected sites to save it from demolition. Cr Allen said he was confident the Council's decision to refuse a development permit would not be overturned at the Administration Appeals Tribunal. Whitehorse Council last week voted to include the historic Walker Estatewalker estate, city of whitehorse, metrospan developments, walker, stanley, mitcham road, mitcham, meerut street, australian tesselated tile co pty ltd, walling, edna, allan, peter, nunawading and district historical society, arrowsmith, valda, daly -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Document - Report, Residence, 456 Mitcham Road, Mitcham, 1/12/1997 12:00:00 AM
Report by Andrew Ward, Architectural Historian, on a residence at 456 Mitcham Road, Mitcham. The house was built c1934 for Stanley and Helen Walker.Report by Andrew Ward, Architectural Historian, on a residence at 456 Mitcham Road, Mitcham. The house was built c1934 for Stanley and Helen Walker. A brief history of Stanley walker's links with the Australian Tesselated Tile Co Pty Ltd is given. The architect was Claude Chipton Browse Gibbs and his other work is mentioned. 2 pagesReport by Andrew Ward, Architectural Historian, on a residence at 456 Mitcham Road, Mitcham. The house was built c1934 for Stanley and Helen Walker. mitcham road, mitcham, no. 456, walker, stanley, helen, edgar edward, australian tesselated tile co. pty. ltd., gibbs, claude chipton browse, walling, edna -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Article, Heritage concern over site, 10/12/1997 12:00:00 AM
... and district historical society walling edna australian tesselated tile ...Report on application to build 16 two-storey town housesReport on application to build 16 two-storey town houses on land at 456 Mitcham Road, Mitcham. There have been 42 objections from near-by residents.Report on application to build 16 two-storey town houses kirisopoulos, jenny, daly, peter, nunawading and district historical society, walling, edna, australian tesselated tile co pty ltd., walker estate -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Photograph, Bundoora Park Homestead
... of the tiles for the walls and floors, and Griffins and Lilials... supplied most of the tiles for the walls and floors, and Griffins ...In 1899 John Vincent Smith acquired the property known as 'Bundoora Park'. In the same year he organised a public competition for a design for a house to be built on the property. The competition (worth $50) was won by architect Sydney Herbert Wilson who also designed the Malvern Town Hall. In 1990 a fourteen room mansion was erected. The Australia Tesselated Tile Co of Mitcham supplied most of the tiles for the walls and floors, and Griffins and Lilials for the roof decoration.Coloured photograph detailing the history of Bundoora Park Homestead, Bundoora. Features a drawing of the mansion. The Australian Tesselated Tile Co. Pty Ltd of Mitcham supplied tiles and other materials.bundoora park homestead, australian tesselated tile co pty ltd, tiles -
Lakes Entrance Regional Historical Society (operating as Lakes Entrance History Centre & Museum)
Photograph, 1999
Originally had corrugated iron roof, additions to house in 1950's, internal alterations, roof tiled.Colour photograph of a Californian Bungalow style dwelling at 15 Barkes Avenue. Outer walls of timber and cement render. Tiled roof has hips and valleys, gables above the veranda. Brick and concrete solid square veranda columns. Upper windows with leaded quarries. Lakes Entrance Victoriahouses, heritage study -
Ballarat Tramway Museum
Photograph - Colour Photograph/s - set of 3, Earl Ewers, 9/11/2014 12:00:00 AM
Set of three colour prints of tram 33 and the advertising boards. .1 - No. 33 at Carlton St with the Twin Lakes dash panel advert, Sovereign Caravans and Eureka tile roof advertisements. .2 - the old Eureka Tile and Twin Lakes advertising signs stored in the depot along 3 road wall. Notes the "star" is missing on the new sign. .3 - Photo of the new Eureka tiles roof Advertisements sign. Image of the star added to the sign - see i5 - taken 1/4/2015 by WAD and emailed to Earl. Taken by Earl Ewers, 9/11/2014, printed on Kodak Royal paper.See images 6262i4 for notes on the rear of each photo.trams, tramways, carlton st, advertisements, roof ads, twin lakes, tram 33 -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Photograph - Lalla Rookh : 41 Fellows Street, Progress Press, 1978
The National Trust (Victoria) citation on the Heritage Victoria Database describes Lalla Rookh as charming and rare example of a substantial domestic building from the depths of the depression of the 1890s. It was Classified by the Trust on 22/04/1971. The first Kew Urban Conservation Study established that the house was built in 1897 for John Duncan, civil servant. By 1910 William Robert Frayne, chemist, had purchased the property. When the building was listed by the National Estate the building was described as: '... Single-storied, the symmetrical, stuccoed house features a central porch with an arched opening and pedimented consoles and a bull-nose verandah which returns down both sides and is constructed with cast iron columns and friezes. A balustraded parapet crowns the main walls of the house. The encaustic tiled verandah is distinctive.'"Lalla Rookh", 41 Fellows Street, Kew, is of architectural interest as a representative example of a villa house of the period and also forms pan of the townscape of Kew. In a late version of Boom Style Classicism, the basically modest and conventionally planned house is proportioned to emphasise the porch and heavy balustrade, contrasting with the verandah and plain wall surfaces. The parapet may have had urns originally. The encaustic tiled verandah is of note. ... Of local significance.'Photographic print positive of the facade of Lalla Rookh at 41 Fellows Street, Kew.lalla rookh, houses -- fellows street -- kew (vic.), boom style architecture, architecture -- melbourne -- 1890s -
Surrey Hills Historical Society Collection
Photograph, 'Brenston', 22 Albion Street, Surrey Hills under construction, c 1907, c 1907
BDM records: Birth: Harrison Walter Spare Buchanan b 1900, Surrey Hills, son of Amelia Jane Spare and William Tennant Buchanan; died 1977 at Box Hill. Electoral roll records: 1924: Harrison Walter Spare Buchanan (clerk), Amelia Jane Buchanan (HD) and William Tennant Buchanan are listed at 22 Albion Street, known as ‘Brenston’. This and No 24 ‘Thulecroft’ were built in 1907/08 by brothers-in-law Harrison Rotherham & William Buchanan. They used a process new to Melbourne at the time – making concrete bricks for which they used sand from Middlesex Road. Harrison Buchanan, son of William, is the small boy in the photo. Black and white photo of a brick house under construction. The walls are complete and also the roof trusses and chimneys but there is no tiling. A group of 6 men and a boy pose in front of the house, on scaffolding and on the roof.SH732 in pencil on the rear.brenston, thulecroft, house names, (mr) harrison rotherham, (mr) william tennant buchanan, (mr) harrison walter spare buchannan, (mr) amelia jane spare, kathleen martha mcfarland, kathleen martha harrison