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Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Glen Eira Historical Society
Letter - Rosstown Railway
... Cycling ...This file contains four items: 1/A black and white photocopy of a letter dated either 07/08/1889 or 09/08/1889, from Robert Lundon to an unidentified recipient discussing an agreement reached between the author – on behalf of the recipient – and Soon Hang Hi in regard, in regards to the allotment known as Webber’s. The agreement is outlined in the letter in what appears to be Chinese characters, and includes the marks of Robert Lundon and Soon Hang Hi. File note from Joy Wu states that the calligraphy is not Mandarin or traditional Chinese. 2/Three sheets of hand-written working notes with information taken from the Victorian Government Gazette on THE ROSSTOWN AND MURRUMBEENA LAND COMPANY LIMITED, THE ROSSTOWN JUNCTION RAILWAY AND PROSPERITY COMPANY LIOMITED, and THE ROSSTOWN JUNCTION, ELSTERNWICK, AND OAKLEIGH RAILWAY COMPANY LIMITED, covering dates between 1887 and 1894. The notes concern meetings and creditors claims relevant to the companies, with reference numbers for the information source. Date and author of the notes are not recorded. 3/A black and white photocopy of the a partial map of the Rosstown Railway and surrounding area, undated. The map includes the names of landholders in the areas of Brighton, Garden Vale and Elsternwick, as well as other railway lines present in the region. 4/A fold-out map and guide of the Rosstown Rail Trail, including a brief general history of Caulfield as well as a more extensive biography of William Murray Ross and the Rosstown Railway. The map marks and describes significant sites along the trail, including photographs of some of these sites, provided by DF Jowett.documents, correspondence, webber’s, lundon robert, chinese characters, ethnic communities, signatures, text, settlements, taxes, fraser john grieves, lovell r.h., price davies, meetings, communication activities, soon hang hi, commercial events and activities, the rosstown and murrumbeena land company limited, victorian government gazette, bulmer richard, parry john, osment henry, shareholders, creditors claims, the rosstown junction railway and property company limited, finch and best, lawyers, the rosstown junction elsternwick and oakleigh railway company limited, cameron w.c., phillips p.d., garden vale, elsternwick, elsternwick railway station, rosstown, rosstown railway, thomas street, bay street, kooyong road, melbourne and brighton railway, hawthorn road, bambra road, caulfield and frankston railway, booran road, grange road, koornang road, murrumbeena road, north road, north road railway station, east brighton railway station, south road, railway routes, railway lines, railways, land transport, murphy j., caulfield, hamilton t.f., dane p., holloway, webb, ailee john, payne t.b., brodie chas, dane john, o’neil h., mccombie john, mcmillane a., smyth c.d., cooper, ebden, landholders, jeffrey j.d., gill j., balcombe a.e., cooper h., mcnab j., white j., sutherland j., greeves a.f.a., newton m.c., chamley f.b., fowler j., inglis p., grant t., stooke j., swanson g., cochrane c., adams e.b., mccombie thas, keyes robert, brighton cemetery, burials grounds and graveyards, war-ein road, were j.b., holland j., mcmahon c., winter t.l.m., dendy henry, mitchell w., jackson s., were j.e., wickham francis dawe, bryant jane, east brighton railway station, railway stations, maps, allotments, land titles, roads and streets, rosstown rail trail, city of glen eira, tourism, trains, tourism information bureaus, tours, pamphlets, elsternwick railway park, oakleigh junction, princes park, ee gunn reserve, packer park, sites, jowett d.f., weickhardt i.g., return to rosstown: railways land sales and sugar beet ventures in caulfield, land sales, walking trails, ross william murray, transport objects, locomotion, walking, cycling, driving, sports, country mansions, people, caulfield john, builders, construction and demolition workers, occupations, careers, professionals, topography, geology, landforms, horticulture, market gardens, primary industry workers, city of caulfield, mood kee, pennington harold, annual general meetings, caulfield town hall, glen eira city council, carnegie, carnegie station, rosstown station, people by circumstance, migrants, sugar beet, sugar beet mill, sugar beet industry, mills, factories, sea beach lines, bent thomas, parliamentary representatives, neville street, miller street, lemann’s swamp reserve, koornang park, cane sugar industry, breweries, rabbit processing plants, health establishments, hospitals, food production establishments, abattoirs, thieves, social problems, vagrants, theft, squatting, financial economics, debt, finance industry, insurance companies, company managers, bentleigh, ross leila, the grange, leila road, wild cherry road, financial trouble, mortgages, gisborne street, archibald street, riddell parade, victoria railways, glen huntly road, clarence street, college street, gladstone parade, parrell street, aileen avenue, seaview street, drion estate, land subdivisions, dover street, sussex street, landfill, marara road, booran road, woodville avenue, dorothy avenue, ormond park, royal avenue, ormond railway station, oakleigh road, melten avenue, miller street, munro avenue, lord reserve, neerim road, toolambool road, the rosstown hotel, rosanna street, murrumbeena crescent, commercial establishments, the national bank, rosstown road, kangaroo road, poath road, freda street, hughesdale kindergarten, oakleigh council, hughesdale community centre, civic establishments, galbally reserve, plaques, warrigal road, out and about brochures -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Photograph, Black & White, Cycling Group Cheltenham c1908, c1908
Early settlers in Moorabbin Shire came together for social, religious, sporting and entertainment. This group is probably from the Cheltenham area, possibly a Church Group , and are preparing for a day of riding.Community Groups with Church or Sporting associations were integral to the spiritual well being and social life of the early settlers in Moorabbin Shire.Black & White photograph of a large group of male cyclists with their bicycles c1908, bicycles, moorabbin, cheltenham, dendy henry, dendy's special survey 1841, assisted emigrants early settlers, pioneers, market gardeners, marigold flowers, pharmacy, charman stephen, gettens mary, charman harriet, methodist church cheltenham, primitive methodists, box william, box elizabeth, state schools, education, moorabbin shire, moorabbin roads board, city of moorabbin, kingston city council -
Greensborough Historical Society
Folder, Laurie Roy, 23/02/1933
Newspaper articles and photographs relating to cyclist Laurie Roy who tragically died at age 19 in 1933.Laurie Roy was an amateur cyclist with great potential who died as a result of a cycling accident in 1933. Laurie Roy lived in Greensborough and is buried at the Greensborough Cemetery.20-page plastic binder, spiral bound, clear cover. Contains documents relating to the Roy family.laurie roy, cyclists, greensborough cemetery -
Phillip Island and District Historical Society Inc.
Book, Rankin Kennedy, C.E, book of the motor car : a comprehensive and authoritative guide on the care, management, maintenance, and construction of the motor car and motor cycle
Inscribed: W.A.C. (Dick) Goddard, 39 Hackney Rd., St Peters. Stamped: Phillip Island & District Historical Society. -
Federation University Historical Collection
Album, Newspaper Clippings Scrap Book on Henry Sutton
Henry Sutton is a talented world-wide accepted inventor with inventions relating to the telephone, photography, wireless, cars, motorcycles, and bicycles as well as many more inventions. Henry was also one of four brothers that ran the Sutton's Music Store after the death of their Father Richard Sutton. Henry Sutton taught Applied Electricity at the Ballarat School of Mines in 1883 to 1886. Several folders of newspaper articles relating to Henry Sutton. henry sutton, mining companies, hugo brunn, main road, ballarat east, sutton music seller, plank road, richard sutton, flutina, halophone, inventions, instruments, all saints mining company, phillipson jeweller, ballaarat mechanics' institute, w.g. shepperd, cooper's reading room, plate glass, concertina, r.h. sutton music warehouse, organ harmonium, ballarat temperance hall, fire, accordian, musical instruments, st paul's anglican church, bakery hill, military side-drums, ballarat volunteer rangers fife band, shops, street broadcasting, complete music store, concord piano, gramaphone, alfred sutton, walter sutton, fred sutton, e. gordon.jones, astor radio, centenary dinner, jeffrey sutton, music stool, orguinette, harp, chilver wilson benefit, collard and collard, w.h. figgis, hydraulic lift, sturt street, mary sutton, advertisements, sutton's cycle agency, a. leslie sutton, -
Federation University Historical Collection
Article - Cycling Jersey, FedUni AusCycling National Championships Jersey, 2021
The Australian Champion Jersey isbe awarded to the winner, or the highest placed Australian in all events at the Federation University AusCycling National Championships. Winners may wear their Australian Champion Jersey in all events in the discipline speciality and category in which they won their title and no other event up until the day before the championship event of the following year. Category Winners in 2021 were Sarah Roy, Sarah Gigante, Annette Edmondson, Cameron Meyer, Lucas Plapp, Lucas PlappFramed Federation University AusCycling National Champianships Winners Jersey, signed by the winner of each catergory.federation university auscyling national championships, jersey, costume, sarah roy, sarah gigante, annette edmondson, cameron meyer, lucas plapp -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book, Henry Sutton The Innovative Man: Australian Inventor, Scientist and Engineer, 2018
Nikola Tesla once said “Let the future tell the truth and evaluate each one according to his work and accomplishments” In his lifetime Henry Sutton not only helped shape Ballarat’s history but also that of Australia and the world. Very few people have crossed as many scientific fields as Henry Sutton. His life’s work spanned all avenues of science and engineering and he stands alone in history as one of Australia’s first true men of science and innovation. Based on previously unavailable personal papers as well as articles and letters published in journals worldwide, this book captures the personal triumphs and tragedies of this remarkable Australian. By age 26 Henry Sutton had won world acclaim and graced the world stage among the giants of the scientific world. Henry Sutton stood as an equal alongside such men as Alexander Graham Bell, Nikola Tesla and Thomas Edison. Although applauded around the world in his day for his remarkable achievements, Henry Sutton went largely unnoticed in Australia by his peers and the public. It is not until you begin to document, in one place, his enormous body of work that you start to gain the true picture and depth of his remarkable achievements. It is a national travesty that these achievements have slipped largely unrecognised between the pages of Australian scientific history for over a century. Henry Sutton’s inventions and contribution to science has been a part of the evolution of many inventions, including the light globe, telephone, battery, television and wireless technology all of which are now part of our everyday lives. Henry Sutton’s contribution to Australian and world innovation has been methodically researched and documented in this book and is the first fully documented account of this forgotten and unrecognised extraordinary Australian.Hardcovered book of 397 pages. The cover features a black and white image of Henry Sutton. Gift of Lorayne Branch (author)lorayne branch, henry sutton, ballarat school of mines, former sutton's music store, innovation, inventions, scientist, microscopy, cycle agency, automobile club of victoria, wireless telegraphy, anne tattie, anne sutton, sutton autocar, photography -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book - Souvenir, Ballarat Progress Association, Beautiful Ballarat, 1914
Beautiful Ballarat was produced for tourists to Ballarat.Eighty six page book with soft brown cover. The book includes some historical articles and a number of black and white images and advertisements. Includes map insert.ballarat, eureka stockade, gold discovery, rowlands, lydiard street, ballarat post office, ballarat town hall, ballarat woollen mils, sunnyside woollen mill, ballarat east town hall, ronaldson bros and tippett, railway, lake wendouree, rolfe, ballarat botanical gardens, mining, new imperial gold mine, ballarat art gallery, schools, education, ballarat school of mines, ymca, provincial hotel, ballarat grammar school, rolfe cycles, cycles, bicycles, buninyong godld discovery obelisk, j.a. reynolds, w. brown and co, motor cycle, carlyon's hotel, charles morris furnishing undertaker, newlyn reservoir, y.m.c.a., unicorn hotel, golden city hotel, st andrew's kirk, george hotel, ballarat agricultural high school, st patrick's college, ballarat college, h. francis chemist, south street competitions, boer war memorial, fernery, reid's coffee palace, trout, carey motor company, herbert rolfe -
Federation University Historical Collection
Album - Album - Sample Stickers, ZILLES COLLECTION: Album, Sample Stickers produced by Jeff Zilles
Zilles Printers was begun by Lewis Zilles in the early 1930s. It was in McKenzie Street Ballarat. His son Jeffrey also became a printer - letterpress, offset and screen printer. The business became Zilles Printers/Graphics and was in Armstrong Street and later Bell Street Ballarat. A form of sticker began in 1839 when Sir Rowland Hill invented adhesive paper. The first self-adhesive label was invented in 1935 by Stanton Avery - Avery Labels. In the 1940s "bumper strips"were created. Now referred to as bumper stickers. The stickers shown are for car dealerships, motor bike, tractor and agricultural equipment and entertainment. They are for places in Ballarat, Bendigo, Geelong and Wonthaggi, indicating that Zilles were well known for the quality of their products. These stickers were possibly produced in the 1960s, 1970s and early 1980s. The Swinger was a local dance that ran at the Ballarat Civic Hall between 1972-1975. Dress was neat casual and men were required to wear a tie. The average age of attendees was 18-25.Dark green vinyl cover, three bolts holding it together. Thirteen pages - black cover paperSticker on each pagezilles printers, stickers, bumper stickers, self-adhesive label, santo avery, sir rowland hill, car dealers, motor cycles, farm equipment, ballarat, bendigo, geelong, wonthaggi, ballarat motors, rambler, triumph, toyota, brown murphy geelong, leyland australia, berko datsun geelong, mental ballarat, sound conditioned bendigo, col hawkins, frank faulkner car sales, patron products ballarat, mil haven tractor cab ballarat, john basin ballarat, swinger, b & g myers pty ltd ballarat, arthur shultz, don mullin motors wonthaggi -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book, William J. Goudie, Ripper's Steam Engine Theory and Practice, 1932
Formerly part of the Ballarat School of Mines libraryA blue book with the title printed in gold on the spine, and the publisher "Longmans" printed in gold at the base of the spine. It has 503 illustrations throughout. It has two loose pages of plates in a sleeve inside the back cover and some pull out plates throughout. 841 pagesIt is stamped with The School of Mines Ballarat near the front and back pages, as well as some throughout the book.steam engine, properties of steam, flywheels, condensers, thermodynamic principles, energy diagrams, engine cycles and efficiencies, brake horse-power, steam in the cylinder, multiple expansion engines, valve gears, governors, crank, corliss and drop-valve engines, steam turbines, turbine performance, steam -
Federation University Historical Collection
Booklet, Buninyong Heritage Walks and other Interesting Cycle Rides and Scenic Drives, 2008
Blue soft covered book, with maps, plans and photographs relating to Buninyong, Victoria. buninyong, de soza park, buninyong tannery, buninyong railway station, eagle hotel, old buninyong library, hastie's hill, buninyong town hall, hastie's spring, crown hotel, buninyong post office, bowen tree, aborigines, buninyong primary school, buninyong cemetery, gold monument, mount buninyong, lal lal falls -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Book - Reference Botany, Botany - A Junior Book For Schools, 1927
This book was a highly regarded reference book for students in primary and lower secondary schools within Victoria from the late 1800s to the mid 1900s. The book provided students with the fundamental knowledge of botany for the era in which it was produced. As this book was targeting a junior schooling level (basic), it could cover a greater and extended reader population. Teaching institutions could, because of its straight forward, basic written information, retain this book's circulation for a greater length of time, thereby optimising the return against the greater initial costs of importing it from England.This book was produced in a time where learning was at a relatively slower pace (due to a smaller source and supply of material). The availability of a large range of cheap reference books such as that offered from 1971 on wards via the internet "Project Guttenberg" in the form of electronic books, has dramatically provided a larger source of reference material. The significance of this book on botany, is that it was highly effective for the era in which it was produced and in particular the students at a rural based school. Being in a rural area students were able to identify local vegetation to the various life cycles of plants presented in this mainly United Kingdom/European referenced book. The students in the Kiewa Valley and attending a rural school, where in a position to study all the fundamental teaching that this book encompassed. This in one way provided students in the valley a slightly better appreciation between book and real life (on the land, in the field and by the river). Later publications of this book had additional Australian references in them.This hard covered book(cloth strengthened) is faded(aged) beige in colour and consists of 204 pages. It is printed in English (black print) on both sides and contains illustrations of both free hand sketches and photographs of plants, both foliage and roots systems. The book is arranged in three sections: three pages of preface, two of contents (28 chapters). The last four pages contain the appendix and index.On spine "BOTANY" underneath "R.H. YAPP" and at bottom the Cambridge coat of Arms and below this "CAMBRIDGE" The front cover "BOTANY" underneath this "A JUNIOR BOOK FOR SCHOOLS" and below this a an illustration of a four leaf petal(flower of Germander Speedwell) the same as appears on the cover of edition 2, however this book is edition 3. At the bottom is "R.H. YAPPschool, botany, text books, science experiments, nature -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Brochure - Falls Creek Tourism, Falls Creek Never Out of Season
Falls Creek is a Ski Resort in the north east of Victoria. This brochure has been produced to encourage tourists to visit throughout the year.Tourism to the Kiewa Valley is an important industry for the area. Falls Creek is a ski resort with accommodation during winter for skiers, snow boarders and other snow sports. It involves entertainment, restaurants and associated workers. This brochure is produced to promote the resort throughout the year to increase the occupancy of these lodges. The tourist industry has increased steadily with fishing, cycling and bush walking increasing numbers in the area.Glossy square brochure folded in in half and half again. Front page is yellow on the left with black print on the far left. The right side has the title with blue, green and grey background with yellow, orange and white as part of the title. The back is a man standing in front of a sunset with print in a column towards the right side. Inside includes a map with advertisements for accommodation surrounding it.falls creek ski resort; alpine region in victoria; mountain lodges; -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Map - Bogong High Plains & Adjacent Peaks x2, 1976
This map was produced as a result of the 'pressure from walkers' who are interested in climbing the accessible peaks on the Bogong High Plains. Places, huts and rivers are named and indexed. Contours are not given. Heights of mountains are in metres.The Bogong High Plains is a popular walking area and a National Park. This map identifies the mountains and peaks in the area at the time of publication. Some of the huts have since been destroyed by fire and Mt Niggerhead has since been renamed to Jaithmathang.Blue and white cardboard folded in half containing a folded black and white map of Bogong High Plains and Adjacent Peaks with index.bogong high plains. mountains. bushwalkers. walking. map. national park. recreation. cycling. tourism -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Five Victoria Police officers on motorcycles escort Cardinal Shehan in Melbourne for the 40th International Eucharistic Congress, February 1973Motorcycle police riding five abreast along a city road.police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Victoria Police officers on motorcycles escort Cardinal Shehan in Melbourne for the 40th International Eucharistic Congress, February 1973.Four motorcycle police providing an escort for a line of cars on a street in Melbourne. The number 12 tram can be seen in the background.police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle), February 1973
Five Victoria Police officers on motorcycles escort Cardinal Shehan in Melbourne for the 40th International Eucharistic Congress, February 1973Motorcycle police riding five abreast along a city road.police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Police motorcycles leading a parade through the main street of Ararat. Circa 1960BMW R60 and R69 early 60spolice vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; bmw motorcycle -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Police BMW motorcycle with Ian Taylor riding it on a suburban road. Registration number DG-725. Circa 1964police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; bmw motorcycle; taylor, ian -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Police BMW motorcycle with rider, registration number DD-078. Circa 1964police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; bmw motorcycle -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Police Moto Guzzi motorcycle with Ian Taylor as rider with a garden in the background. Circa 1964police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; moto guzzi motorcycle -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Klaus Mueller on a Kawasaki 650 wearing full uniform including helmet, jacket and tie, long riding gloves, jodphurs and riding boots. Circa 1965police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; kawasaki motorcycle; mueller, klaus -
Victoria Police Museum
photograph (police car)
Falcon V8, registration number KRE-042, with Max Oates as driver and Bill Calvert as passenger. There is a Kawasaki W650 beside the car, registration number GL-834, with Harvey Haig riding. Circa 1970police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; police vehicles; ford falcon car; kawasaki motorcycle; oates, max; calvert, william; haig, harvey -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Kawasaki W650 registration number DV-238. Front view. Circa 1968police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; kawasaki motorcycle -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Les Townsend riding a Honda 750 Four, wearing full uniform including helmet, leather jacket, gloves, riding pants and boots. Side view. Circa 1980.police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; honda motorcycle; townsend, leslie george -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Honda, registration number KD-575, in a garage/workshop in Collingwood. Circa 1975police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; honda motorcycle -
Victoria Police Museum
Photograph (police motorcycle)
Blue Honda CB 900 F, registration number MP-146. Front and side view. Circa 1980police vehicles; wireless patrol; motor transport branch; motor transport section; motor cycle patrol; police motorcycles; honda motorcycle