Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Small Chinese porcelain cup, glazed, with a pink and green handpainted flower design on a pale blue base.chinese, cup, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, handpainted

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese stoneware ginger jar (00232.1) with lid (00232.2), Mainly green glaze, base of jar and inside of lid not glazed.chinese, ginger, jar, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, stoneware, harrietville

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese stoneware ginger jar, grey with blue pattern. Glazed.chinese, ginger, jar, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, stoneware, buckland

Silver bowl on stand with round base, and with a scallop pattern. The bowl has a dot and diamond pattern around the edge.E.P.A.I.N.S.silver, bowl, fruit stand, tableware

Silver plate on copper fruit dish, supported on three feet. Edge of dish decorated with a grapevine pattern. Indents for a handle attachment - handle not included.Luke \ Rhine - Gold \ by \ Paramount \ Reproduction Silver on copper.dish, fruit, tableware, silver

Silver fruit stand with a square plate and a round base. Plate has a bud design at the edge with curled indent on each side.Crusader Plate E.P.N.S. A1crusader, plate, dish, tableware, fruit stand

Silver egg warmer. Egg shaped with egg holder insert and spirit burner. Three animal shaped legs, with a dove and leaves on the lid.5 hallmarks 14380egg warmer, silver, utensils, tableware

This mug is one of many artefacts recovered from the wreck of the sailing ship Loch Ard during the 1970s. The ship was wrecked in 1878 on the southwest coast of Victoria. Only two of the 54 people on board survived.The mug is significant for its association with the wreck of the LOCH ARD, which is listed on Victoria's Heritage Register.Pewter mug, encrusted and dented body, with a hole near the handle. Mug's sides curve inwards at the centre. A large handle is attached. It was recovered from the wreck of the Loch Ard. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, pewter mug, pewter, mug, loch ard, tableware, drinking vessel, tankard

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

This spoon, made by William Page & Co., is electroplated nickel-silver and was recovered during the late 1960s to early 1970s from an unnamed shipwreck along the coast of Victoria. The shipwrecks in the area range from around the 1840s to the early 1930s. The spoon is part of the John Chance Collection. This spoon is likely to have been recovered be from the wreck of the Loch Ard (1873-1878) as other cutlery in the Flagstaff Hill’s Shipwreck Collection made by William Page was also recovered from the Loch Ard. The ship’s Manifest included a large quantity of cutlery. Also, other objects in the John Chance Collection were also recovered from wreck of the Loch Ard. In the mid-1800s electroplated cutlery became a popular substitute for the traditional but more costly sterling silver pieces. The ‘new’ cutlery was made from a more common base metal, such as nickel or a nickel alloy, then electroplated (coated) with a very thin layer of silver. The eating utensils looked like the expensive, pure silver version but eventually, through use and wear, the base metal would show. Some producers warranted their electroplated silver to be ‘white throughout’. WILLIAM PAGE & CO., BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND - Although the electroplated cutlery of William Page & Co. was made in Birmingham, it does not include the embossed Birmingham Assay’s mark of an ‘anchor’ because the metal used for the spoons is not silver. William Page used various Maker’s Marks on his cutlery. The pattern of five embossed marks on this spoon is a typical example, with the embossed sunken crown containing ‘W P’ being the first in the column of symbols. - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamond William Page established his business in 1834, according to the text around a printed Trademark. The firm William Page & Co. began electroplating in 1855, and from 1880 it operated from Cranemore Street, Cattle’s Grove and also at 55 Albion St, Birmingham. The firm registered a new Trademark [‘W P’ within a diamond boarder within a sunken diamond] in 1897; previously the Mark were the initials WP within a crown, but the British legislation prohibited the use of a ‘crown’ mark on electroplated ware in 1895. In 1936 the firm became William Page & Co. Ltd and became a supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938, marking its products with the ‘broad arrow’ symbol. The firm also traded with the brand names Armour, Asrista, Bolivian Silver, Roman Silver, Roumanian Silver, Silverite and Trevor Plate. Although this spoon is not linked to a particular shipwreck, it is very likely to have come from the wreck of the Loch Ard; the ship’s Manifest includes a large quantity of cutlery. Regardless, it is recognised as being historically significant as an example of cutlery carried onboard a ship as either personal belongings or cargo and brought into Colonial Victoria in the 19th to early 20th century; through this we have added opportunity to interpret Victoria’s social and historical themes of those times. The spoon also has significance for its connection with many similar William Page pieces of cutlery in our collection that were recovered from the wreck of the sailing ship Loch Ard (1873-1878). William Page & Co. of Birmingham is one of the renowned 19th century manufacturers and electroplaters and was supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938. The spoon has added significance, as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver of wrecks, including the Loch Ard, in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value.Spoon; teaspoon, electroplate nickel-silver, discoloured to green and red-brown in places. Fiddle design. Bowl has indents and holes. Five embossed Maker’s Marks on back of handle, arranged in a column from tip towards bowl. Made by William Page and Co., Birmingham. The spoon no longer has its silver plating. The surface has encrustations. Bowl has nicks, indents and holes. Stem is very bent at the shoulder. Discoloured to green and red-brown in places. Embossed Maker Marks - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamondflagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, loch ard, cutlery, flatware, silverware, tableware, eating utensils, dining, spoon, electroplated cutlery, william page & co, william page & co. ltd., birmingham plate, silversmith, antique, vintage, fiddle design, fiddle pattern, teaspoon

This spoon, made by William Page & Co., is electroplated nickel-silver and was recovered during the late 1960s to early 1970s from an unnamed shipwreck along the coast of Victoria. The shipwrecks in the area range from around the 1840s to the early 1930s. The spoon is part of the John Chance Collection. This spoon is likely to have been recovered be from the wreck of the Loch Ard (1873-1878) as other cutlery in the Flagstaff Hill’s Shipwreck Collection made by William Page was also recovered from the Loch Ard. The ship’s Manifest included a large quantity of cutlery. Also, other objects in the John Chance Collection were also recovered from wreck of the Loch Ard. In the mid-1800s electroplated cutlery became a popular substitute for the traditional but more costly sterling silver pieces. The ‘new’ cutlery was made from a more common base metal, such as nickel or a nickel alloy, then electroplated (coated) with a very thin layer of silver. The eating utensils looked like the expensive, pure silver version but eventually, through use and wear, the base metal would show. Some producers warranted their electroplated silver to be ‘white throughout’. WILLIAM PAGE & CO., BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND - Although the electroplated cutlery of William Page & Co. was made in Birmingham, it does not include the embossed Birmingham Assay’s mark of an ‘anchor’ because the metal used for the spoons is not silver. William Page used various Maker’s Marks on his cutlery. The pattern of five embossed marks on this spoon is a typical example, with the embossed sunken crown containing ‘W P’ being the first in the column of symbols. - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamond William Page established his business in 1834, according to the text around a printed Trademark. The firm William Page & Co. began electroplating in 1855, and from 1880 it operated from Cranemore Street, Cattle’s Grove and also at 55 Albion St, Birmingham. The firm registered a new Trademark [‘W P’ within a diamond boarder within a sunken diamond] in 1897; previously the Mark were the initials WP within a crown, but the British legislation prohibited the use of a ‘crown’ mark on electroplated ware in 1895. In 1936 the firm became William Page & Co. Ltd and became a supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938, marking its products with the ‘broad arrow’ symbol. The firm also traded with the brand names Armour, Asrista, Bolivian Silver, Roman Silver, Roumanian Silver, Silverite and Trevor Plate. Although this spoon is not linked to a particular shipwreck, it is very likely to have come from the wreck of the Loch Ard; the ship’s Manifest includes a large quantity of cutlery. Regardless, it is recognised as being historically significant as an example of cutlery carried onboard a ship as either personal belongings or cargo and brought into Colonial Victoria in the 19th to early 20th century; through this we have added opportunity to interpret Victoria’s social and historical themes of those times. The spoon also has significance for its connection with many similar William Page pieces of cutlery in our collection that were recovered from the wreck of the sailing ship Loch Ard (1873-1878). William Page & Co. of Birmingham is one of the renowned 19th century manufacturers and electroplaters and was supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938. The spoon has added significance, as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver of wrecks, including the Loch Ard, in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value.Spoon; teaspoon, electroplate nickel-silver, silver discoloured to brown. Fiddle design. Five embossed Hallmarks. Five embossed Maker’s Marks on back of handle, arranged in a column from tip towards bowl. Made by William Page and Co., Birmingham. The spoon no longer has its silver plating. Bowl has a cut in the side, and is nicked and dented. Embossed Maker Marks - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamondflagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, loch ard, cutlery, flatware, silverware, tableware, eating utensils, dining, spoon, electroplated cutlery, william page & co, william page & co. ltd., birmingham plate, silversmith, antique, vintage, fiddle design, fiddle pattern, teaspoon

This butter or cheese knife is a decorative example of electroplated cutlery that had become an affordable alternative to more expensive silver cutlery in the late 1800s to early 1900s. The knife has stamp marks in the back of its handle that are a combination of letters and symbols used by British silversmiths to identify their workmanship. The design and type of this knife was not normally used by everyday people but rather those of a higher social class with time and money to have a particular decorative knife to serve butter or cheese. The marks on the handle tell that it was made of nickel silver, and electroplated with superior quality Stirling silver. The Barker Brothers of Birmingham made the knife between 1885 and 1907, but most likely before 1895. It was made for the British, or British colonial, people, connected with a government department such as the navy or defence. This story may be slightly inaccurate, as some silversmiths added extra ‘pseudo marks’ to their wares to disguise the quality. THE MARKS and their meaning – - ‘A1’ The silver used in electroplating this knife was the highest level, ‘superior quality’, measured in grams of silver per table spoon or table fork, with ‘A1’ being 2 2/3 grams, and ‘D’ being 0 1/2 grams of silver. - ‘BB’ The Baker Brothers used these initials from 1885 to 1907. - ‘[crown symbol]’ – This symbol is used for Sterling silver but this knife is a metal alloy. The crown is also the town mark of Sheffield (appointed by the Sheffield Assay Office) but this knife was made in Birmingham, which has the town mark of an anchor. The Barker Brothers may have added the crown mark to this electroplated silverware as a ‘pseudo hallmark’, leading the buyer to think that it was actual Sterling silver. The use of pseudo hallmarks by electroplaters of the Victorian era was common practice but it was illegal. In 1895 the unlawful practice was seen as imitating the Sheffield Silver Mark and the law was firmly applied to eradicate the deception, so items with this mark probably date before 1895. - [EPNS] Electro Plated Nickel Silver, called nickel silver or German silver, is a metal alloy that usually combines copper, nickel and zinc (60 percent copper, 20 percent nickel, 20 percent zinc). It has a silver-white appearance and is sometimes referred to as ‘white ware’. It does not contain any silver but is often used as a base for electroplating, when the item is covered with a thin layer of silver to give it the polished appearance of pure silver. It became popular in the late 19th and early 20th century as an affordable substitute for sterling silver. - Broad Arrow - an official stamp that indicates it was once the property of Britain government, either in Britain or one of its colonies, and used in the defence force. In Great Britain, from an 1875 government act, it was, and still, is a crime to forge or wrongfully use, the broad arrow symbol. The BARKER BROTHERS of Birmingham - Barker Brothers were one of the earlies firms of Birmingham silversmiths, established in 1801 by Mary Barker. They became Barker & Creed, then William and Matthias Barker, then from 1885 they were the Barker Brothers. They were operating in Paradise Street in 1871 until in 1903 they moved to Unity Works, Constitution Hill, in Birmingham. The firm also had a showroom at 292 High Holborn, London, from the early 1900s to the 1980s. In 1907 the firm became Barker Brothers Silversmiths Ltd, then in the 1960s they merged with Ellis & Co, becoming Barker Ellis Silver Co. Ltd. In 1979 they were registered in USA as Ellis & Co., Barker Ellis, and Ellis Barker. The business went into administration in 1992, after almost 200 years of production. The firm advertised as specialists in electroplating, and used the trademarks BRITANOID, UNITY PLATE and THE HYGENIA.This knife is historically significant, dated from 1885 to 1907 but most likely pre-1895, and made by the longstanding Birmingham silversmiths, the Barker Brothers, established in 1801. The knife is an example of decorative flatware used by people of ’class’. It also has the broad arrow stamp, connecting it to the British government, in particular the ordinance department. The stamp also connects it to other items in our collection with that stamp. It may have been connected to pre-Federation government organisations and officials such as the army Garrison, government naval vessel, police, lighthouse keepers, harbour masters. The knife is the only example of its kind in our collection, being a decorative silver butter or cheese knife, made by the Barker Brothers of Birmingham. Butter knife, or cheese knife, electroplated nickel silver (EPNS). Upper blade edge has decorative shape and engraved motifs, lower blade edge is bevelled to a cutting edge, and narrow plain handle flares out to a wide, rounded end. Maker’s marks are stamped on the reverse. Made by Barker Brothers of Birmingham in the late-19th century. Stamps: “

This teaspoon is an example of electroplated cutlery that was affordable alternative to more expensive silver cutlery, popular in the late 19th and early 20th century. The teaspoon has been stamped with text on the back of its handle that describes the nickel silver alloy that it was made of, and that it was made in Sheffield, but does not mention the maker's name. The plain design and light weight of this teaspoon could mean that it was used as a common, everyday utensil. The text on the back includes the words 'wears wite', assuring the buyer that even if the silverplate wears or flakes off the surface, the metal beneath it will show the white colour typical of nickel silver, or German silver. This alloy of copper, nickel and zinc is often used as a base for electroplating and named Electro Plated Nickel Silver (EPNS). An exact match of this teaspoon's inscription "WEARS-WITE STAINLESS NICKEL SILVER SHEFFIELD" has been found on cutlery made by Viners Ltd., and has not yet been found on flatware made by other manufacturers. Other cutlers have used very similar text but have used 'rustless' instead of 'stainless' and 'white throughout' instead of 'wears-wite'. Viners Limited was established in Sheffield in 1901 by Adolphe Viner and his sons. By 1908 they had a manufacturing plant in Bath Street, Sheffield, and went on to be the leading cutlers in the United Kingdom. They expanded to Hong Kong and Japan, and from 1925 they used the trademarks 'Alpha', 'Resilco' and 'Wear-wite stainless silver nickel'. They were appointed as Royal Cutlers to King George V in 1930, at which time their trademark was still 'Wear-wite' followed by the words 'Rustless Nickle Silver'. They continued to expand and prosper over the years. The Viners name is still being used by the current owners, the Rayware Group. In 2018 the Viners name celebrated 110 years as specialists in flatware. This teaspoon is historically significant, dating from the mid-1920s and made by a leading Sheffield silversmiths, Viners Limited, established in 1901 and continuing on with cutlery still branded with the Viner’s name today. Viners who were appointed as Royal Cutlers in 1930 by King George V. The teaspoon is an example of silver plated cutlery in common everyday use in the earlier half of the 20th century. This Viners teaspoon is unique in our collection as an item produced by Viners Ltd. and bearing the stamp ‘Wear-wite”.Teaspoon, small, thin, nickel silver plated. Narrow plain handle flares out to a wide, rounded end. Maker’s marks are stamped on the reverse. Made in Sheffield, England.“WEARS-WITE STAINLESS / NICKEL SILVER SHEFFIELD”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime museum & village, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, electroplate, electro plate, nickel silver, nickel alloy, alloy composition, copper nickel zinc, german silver, epns, silversmiths, victorian era, 19th century, flatware, tableware, cutlery, cutler, dining utensils, eating utensils, silver-white metal, wears-wite stainless nickel silver sheffield, teaspoon, sheffield, wear-wite, silver nickel, stainless, rustless