The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Letter written from (unknown) POW imprisioned by the Japanese on Morotai Island from 1942 - 1945 to (unknown) friend. Descriptive of life and treatment in POW camp. The island was captured by the Japanese in early 1942. Morotai's southern plain was taken by American forces in September 1944 during the Battle of Morotai, and used as a staging point for the Allied invasion of the Philippines in early 1945, and of Borneo in May and June of that year. Japanese soldier Teruo Nakamura was discovered in the Morotai jungle in 1974, as one of the WWII Japanese soldiers who held out subsequent to the Japanese military's surrender.Photocopy of letter, 4 pages, originally written in ink on (unofficial) Australian Red Cross form.Added to head of letter at a later date is inscription ' First letter written home for 3 1/2 years'.Top left hand- FOR SAFETY/ IN YOUR LETTERS DO NOT REFER TO:-/ The name of your ship or other ships in the convoy, or its escorts./The date of sailing, ports of call, or probable destination./ The description of troops, their loca-/tion or any other information/ which, if intercepted, would be of/ value to the enemy. In your Top right hand- Australian Red Cross Society/ (UNOFFICIAL)/ 25-8-45/ (added at later date 'Morotri Island')/ Alex, Have witten this especially/ as i don't wish our women folk to know the tougher side of life./Well Alex for the first/ 2 1/2 years as POWs we lived reasonably/ well, but the last 15 months was like /hell. Heres the worst lot of b-s/ you could find on earth, they worked /us from 7AM till 6 PM, & fed/ us on muck you wouldn't feed to/ Pigs. I'm nothing at all they would 2, pow, morotri island, morotai island, world war, prisoner of war, australian red cross society

Bendigo Advertiser '' The way we were'' from Thursday, March 18, 2004. trim and terrific: the 1948 Kangaroo Flat football Club reserves look like a fearsome bunch of young men, ready to take on the world. Mick Brennan is pictured standing, second from the left. The clip is in a folder.newspaper, bendigo advertiser, the way we were

Black and white photo copy : image shows line of whims descending towards open shed like building in front of mining dam. On RH side brick chimney. Potentially, the same area as shown in image 2402.237 (see mine sheds, brick chimney and whims).Batchelderplace, bendigo, mining landscape

Photograph. The Patricia Coles (nee McLean) Collection. Bendigo Easter Parade Queen Competition 1929. Copy of a black and white photograph of four women, one seated on a central chair, with flowers, and two small children. A boy and a girl. On the reverse the Queen, seated, is identified as Gwen McPherson (Mr McPherson, her father, was a senior policeman in Golden Square). The small girl, front right, is named as June McLean, daughter of Nellie and Tom McLean, United Kingdom Hotel, Golden Square. [Note: Peter MOLONEY, Gwen's son emailed [email protected] 13/10/2014 after the photo appeared in the Bendigo Advertiser, 'The Way We Were’ - 'Hi, please have a look at the attached photo. My name is Peter Moloney, Gwen McPherson’s son; my grandfather was a policeman at Golden Square from about 1935 to 1945. My mother was born in 1920. Given all the information above and also the fact that the 'Queen' in the photo does not look like my mother, who would have been 9 years old in 1929, I am afraid the detail on the photo is incorrect. Hope this information is of some use to you. Peter Moloney.']bendigo, entertainment, easter parade queen competition, bendigo easter fair. bendigo easter parade queen compettion. mclean family of golden square. united kingdom hotel.

Telegram to Mrs T Coombs care KelPel Pavilion Barnard St Bendigo. The Golden Square Tennis Club would like to congratulate the 3CV ladies on their 40th Anniversary. We hope you have a happy day. Dated 25 Oct 1978clubs and associations, sport

Eight postcards, all but one are depicting Theatre Actresses of the early 1900's. All are addressed to Mrs. Hands, 164 Lygon Street Carlton and Mrs. A. Stephens of the same address. (a) Maud Jeffreys , (b) Unknown Actress , (c) Hand Tinted Photo, unknown , (d) unknown , (e) unknown lady , (f) ' Her sunny locks hang on her temples like a golden fleece , (g) The Back Beach Hotel Sorrento , (h) unknown lady.postcard, actresses, theatre actresses

TROVE : Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), Saturday 11 October 1862, page 8 ‘…..AYER'S SARSAPARILLA FOR PURIFYING THE BLOOD; A compound remedy, designed to be the most effectual Alterative that can be made. It is a concentrated extract of Para Sarsaparilla, so combined with other substances of still greater alternative power as to afford an effective antidote for the diseases Sarsaparilla is reputed to cure. It is believed that such a remedy is wanted by those who suffer from Strumous complaints, and that one which will accomplish their cure must prove of immense service to this large class of our afflicted fellow-citizens. How completely this compound will do it has been proven by experiment on many of the worst cases to be found of the following complaints : — Scrofula and Scrofulous complaints, Eruptions and Eruptive Diseases, Ulcers, Pimples, Blotches, Tumora, Salt Rheum, Scald Head, Syphillis and Syphillitic Affections, Mercurial Disease, Dropsy, Neuralgia or Tic Doloreux, Debility, Dyspepsia and Indigestion, Erysipelas, Rose, or St. Anthony's Fire, and, indeed, the whole class of complaints arising from impurity of the blood. This compound will be found a great promoter of health, when taken in the Spring, to expel the foul humors which fester in the blood at that season of the year. By the timely expulsion of them many rankling disorders are nipped in the bud. Multitudes can, by the aid of this remedy, spare themselves from the endurance of foul eruptions and ulcerous sores, through which the system will strive to rid itself of corruptions, if not assisted to do this through the natural channels of the body by an alternative medicine. Cleanse out the vitiated blood whenever you find its impurities bursting through the skin in pimples, eruptions, or sores ; cleanse it when you find it is obstructed and sluggish in the veins ; cleanse it whenever it is foul, and your feelings will tell you when. Even where no particular disorder is felt, people enjoy batter health, and live longer, for cleansing the blood. Keep the blood healthy, and all is well; but with this pabulum of life disordered, there can be no lasting health. Sooner or later something must go wrong, and the great machinery of life is dis ordered or overthrown. Sarsaparilla has, and deserves much, the reputation of accomplishing these ends. But the world has been egregiously deceived by preparations of it, partly because the drug alone has not all the virtue that is claimed for it, but more because many preparations, pretending to be concentrated extracts of it, contain but little of the virtue of Sarsaparilla, or anything else. _ During late years, the public have been misled by large bottles, pretending to give a quart of Extract of Sarsaparilla for one dollar. Most of these have been frauds upon the sick, for they not only contain little, if any, Sarsaparilla, but often no curative properties whatever. bitter and painful disappointment has followed the use of the various extracts of Sarsaparilla which flood the market, until the name itself is justly despised, and has become synonymous with imposition and cheat. Still, we call this compound Sarsaparilla, and intend to supply such a remedy as shall rescue the name from the load of obloquy which rests upon it. And we think we have ground for believing it has virtues which are irresistible by the ordinary run of the diseases it is intended to cure. In order to secure their complete eradication from the system, the remedy should be judiciously taken according to directions on the bottle. Prepared by DR. J. C; AYER and CO., Lowell, Mass. HENRI J. HART, Sole Wholesale Agent, 21 Queen street south. Sub-agents required for all the interior towns.’ TROVE : Herald (Melbourne, Vic. : 1861 - 1954), Monday 12 November 1934, page 4 DOCTORS SHOW QUICK WAY TO END STOMACH TROUBLE Miss Ethel Phillips, Like Numbers of Victorian People, Surprised to Find How Quickly Freedom from Indigestion Improves Health, Increases Vigor and Makes One's Complexion Healthier and More Radiant. More and more Victorian people are finding that the way one looks and feels depends largely on one's digestion. And .they have learned that Ayer's Sarsaparilla — by ending indigestion — gives one increased strength, steadier nerves, clearer skin, and the improved appearance that can come only from improved health. (Photo) : HOSPITAL NURSE ENDS GASTRIC INDIGESTION BY TEMPTING TASTE OF SARSPARILLA AT MEALTIME Tall clear aqua tinted glass bottle, rectangular in section, with rectangular panels impressed on four sides with embossed text in the four panels. A shallow dome impression on the base containing embossed text.Side 1 : 'AYER'S'. Side 2 : 'COMPOUND EXT.' Side 3 : 'LOWELL MASS. U.S.A.'. Side 4 : 'SARSAPARILLA'. Base 'C57'.ayer's, sarsaparilla, compound extraction

8707.1 - This is a stamp made of predominately wood. The knob-like handle is painted black where as the rest is either naked or stained wood.8707.1 - This A/C is PAST DUE we have sent you several statements calling attention to it unless you give this one prompt consideration we shall be compelled to place the A/C in the hands of a collector

Post card sent from Priscilla PETERSON ( nee HUME)to her niece Elizabeth PROCTOR (nee HUME) who was living Littleton, Massachusetts, USA in 1908. At the time Pricilla and Frederick were living with their daughter, Lottie at 23 Ross Street, Port Melbourne.Sepia postcard of three members of the Peterson family standing in lattice arch beside a hydrangea bush at 23 Ross Street,, Port Melbourne.On reverse: Mrs H F Proctor, Littleton, Massachuttes (sic) USA. 23 Ross Street, Port Melbourne , Australia, Jan 14 08 Dear Elizabeth Yo said you would like to see us in our home S here we are in our side entrance. Myself, Husband & Lottie. Hope to hear from you soon. Love from all to all. Aunt Priscilla.priscilla peterson, priscilla hume, frederick peterson, lottie peterson, families, elizabeth proctor, ross street

Index, bibliography, ill, maps, p.625.non-fictionIn the wake of the September 11th horror, nothing could be timelier than this exploration of world terrorism and the forces that fight it--armies and missions often shrouded in mystery. A foremost expert on guerrilla warfare presents, for the first time, a comprehensive investigation of covert military operations from Vietnam to Afghanistan. Among the revelations: that the CIA handed out shoulder-fired antiaircraft missiles "like lollipops" to Osama bin Laden and other mujahadeen leaders, weapons they may now turn against us how British SAS operated inside Afghanistan against the Russians and used "former special forces" personnel for clandestine missions why secret militia and locally recruited fighters successfully defeated guerrillas and terrorists in Oman, Malaya, and Borneo, but could not in Indochina and Algeria and how "fighting dirty" sometimes meant helping drug dealers in exchange for their support. Most relevant is the detailed analysis of why Russia failed to conquer Afghanistan, what we can learn from their experience, and the perils awaiting any invader. special forces - operations - 20th century, special forces - operations - 20th century

Document. Page from a newspaper with a cartoon drawing (Full page). Cartoon shows a young lady in a long white dress. She is holding a music manuscript and appears to be singing. Behind her are three seated portly gentlemen wearing tuxedos. Two are playing harmonicas and the third is playing the violin. Written below the cartoon, PLAYING SECOND FIDDLE. (This week it is all Amy Castles: politics and wars are considered trifles).MISTER BARTON: ''To think that we three great men should have to sing small in the presence of a slip of a girl like this!''.performing arts, elocution, cartoon drawing

A plaster replica of the 377 ozs gold nugget that was discovered in March 1861 in Robinson Crusoe valley at a depth of 5 feet by Mr John Knott and his son. It was the largest nugget found on the field. Value in 2016 $595,463. An article by the Bendigo Advertiser on Saturday 16 March 1861 describes the discovery "One of the largest pieces of gold that have been turned out of the ground on Bendigo, was yesterday brought to light in a small gully called Dead Bullock Gully, on the Kangaroo Flat side of Robinson Crusoe. The fortunate discoverers of the treasure are in this instance, as is generally the case, "fossickers," and where the nugget was found is in some old ground that has no doubt been turned over times innumerable within a few feet of the spot where the prize was lying hid. The exact weight of the nugget is 377 oz 6¾ dwts of as pure gold as ever came out of the ground. The finders are Mr John Knott and his son; the latter,a lad, being the party who actually found it, which he did under rather peculiar circumstances. He was down below in the old hole, putting a drive into an old pillar that had been left, when he drove his pick into the mass of gold, and partially discovered it. Under the excitement of the moment he cried out loudly, and his father, who was on top, immediately jumped down the hole, under the impression that his son had met with an accident, but fortunately found that he only required assistance in extracting the welcome stranger. The following is a description of the nugget. Length, twelve inches; width, six; while in some places it is of about two inches in thickness, in others it is only about half an inch. It has that peculiarity of form which from the days of the early finders of nuggets has enabled one to discover a resemblance to something either common or uncommon. We have had nuggets resembling frying pans, legs of mutton, dampers, and other articles in use in the rosy days of the diggings. In the present instance several parties who have seen the nugget assert that both in shape and size it is very much like an Australian Platypus, one of the ends of the nugget being exactly in formation like the snout of the animal. It will be exhibited today in the gold office of Mr Bannerman, and will, no doubt,attract the gaze of a crowd. Mr Knott states that at breakfast, before going to work in the morning, the boy mentioned to his mother that he had dreamt on the previous night that he would find a large nugget. May the similar dreams of every alluvial miner come as true as this realization of a prize worth between fourteen and fifteen hundred pounds in value."It has a sticker on it that says 'The Platypus 112'mining, models, plaster model of victorian gold nugget, https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/87375584

Before we got to Vietnam, the troops all though you would be the first Lieutenant killed, and in the end, you were the only one left. We were all wrong, you were the best. vietnam war, 1961-1975 - personal narratives, american

Artist Georg Rosenkranz, crewman aboard the HSK Kormoran, painted this while at Graytown Prisoner of War Camp.Watercolour painting of a guardsman of Graytown with golf clubA guardsman of Graytown we called him "Heile Selassie" because he looked like a Scheich.graytown pow camp, georg rosenkranz, illustrations, watercolour

This memorial designed by Peter Blizzard is dedicated to more than 36,000 Australian men and women were held captive as prisoners by the enemy during the Boer War, World War 1, World War 2 and the Korean War. This memorial honours and names them, the names are etched into the black granite wall adjacent to the pathway. Water springs from beneath the 'Lest We Forget' stone then flows down the wall into the narrow watercourse in front of the first group of names and into the reflective pool, then continues past the second group of names. Finally it disappears under the pathway, returning to its source under the 'Lest We Forget' stone to start the journey again. Water symbolizes the essential nature of man, sacrifice, suffering, spirituality, healing, cleansing, birth and re-birth. The memorial is created from natural materials and is designed to be in harmony with the Ballarat Botanical Gardens, and to create a sense of timeless, dignity and respect. The long pathway of the monument is designed to create a visual perspective of the large distances that Australians travelled to the various conflicts. The paving is shaped like railway sleepers in recognition of the role that railways and railway journeys were relevant to many prisoners of war. The Memorial was declared the first military memorial of national significance located outside Canberra in 2008. Dedication services are held at the memorial on the Sunday closest to 6th of February, ANZAC day and on Remembrance Day. The memorial is of historical and aesthetic importance to the people of BallaratMonument made from carved bluestone, water feature and flagsInscribed with the names of 36,000 Australian men and women were held captive as prisoners by the enemy during the Boer War, World War 1, World War 2 and the Korean War. The listing is by surname and initials and shown by war.prisoners of war, boer war, world war 1, world war 2, korean war, lest we forget, peter blizzard

The bronze statue of a horse commemorates poet and horseman Adam Lindsay Gordon and the horses and mules killed during WWI. The statue depicts a horse going into battle known as a 'charger' mounted on a base of Warrenheip granite. During World War II the artist, Raymond Ewers was made an official war artist with the rank of lieutenant. Funds were raised from visitors to the Adam Lindsay Gordon cottage for the artwork which was unveiled on the centenary of the poet's arrival in Ballarat. Adam Lindsay Gordon the English born Australian poet spent some time in Ballarat, at one stage owning and running Craig's Stables in the city. He was not a very good businessman and his ventures left him in financial ruin. However his ballads and poems were recognized around the world as strong lines that told the story of the Australian bush. He is the only Australian Poet to be memorialized in Westminster Abbey, UK. The Queen quoted his work in 1992 Queens message..."Kindness in another's trouble, courage in one's own.."The artwork is of historic and aesthetic significance to the people of BallaratBronze horse on granite plinthERECTED BY/ THE ADAM LINDSAY GORDON SOCIETY/ TO MARK THE CENTENARY OF/ THE POET'S LIVING IN BALLAARAT,/ ALSO AS A MEMORIAL TO THE 958,600 HORSES AND MULES/ KILLED IN THE FIRST WORLD WAR/ INCLUDING 196,000/ THAT LEFT THESE SHORES NEVR TO RETURN./ "THE LAY OF THE LAST CHARGER"/ FORWARD, THE TRUMPETS WERE SOUNDING THE CHARGE./ THE ROLL OF THE KETTLEDRUM RAPIDLY RAN/ THAT MUSIC, LIKE WILDFIRE SPREADING AT LARGE/ MADDEN'D THE WAR HORSE AS WELL AS THE MAN./ WHERE ARE THEY? THE WAR-STEEDS WHO SHARED IN OUR GLORY/ THE "LANERCOST" COLT AND THE "ACROBAT" MARE,/ AND THE IRISH DIVISION "KATE KEARNEY" AND "RORY" AND RUSHING "ROSCOMMON" AND EAGER "KILDARE"./ WE TOO, SPRUNG FROM THE LOINS OF ISHMAELITE STALLIONS,/ THE RENDERING OF BLACKTHORNS AND RATTLE OF RAILS./ AND WHAT THEN? THE COLOURS REVERSED, THE DRUMS, MUFFLED/ THE BACK NODDING PLUMES, THE DEAD MARCH AND THE PALL/ THE STERN FACES, SOLDIER-LIKE SILENT UNRUFFLED,/ THE SLOW SACRED MUSIC THAT FLOATS OVER ALL/ BY A.L. GORDON/ UNVEILED BY/ HIS WORSHIP THE MAYOR OF BALLAARAT,/ CR. M.J.BROWN/ 1969/ PRESIDENT CR.W.E.ROOF C.B.E. SECRETARY P. ABSOY. ESQ.horse statue, adam lindsay gordon horse statue

It's encouraging to see my city using poetry in such a public way. The park itself is a humble one, which suits these little poems perfectly. If you're ever in town come and take a seat for a while. The poem 'Little Bridge' by Nathan Curnow was commissioned as part of a placemaking project in Little Bridge Street Pocket Park, Ballarat in 2018. The Park was redesigned to include more passive surveillance, and improved amenity to increase community safety in the area. The poem is engraved onto seating to provide a rest and point of interest space in the small park. Six seats featuring an engraved poemPut it all down and take a seat/ Pull out a snack from your shopping/ Listen to the trumpeter busking a tune/ With every visit this park is growing/ Killing time takes real devotion/ Stare at the flags and masts of your town/ And the buses come rolling down Bakery Hill/ It may be cold but we lean to the sun/ If you feel like a square of the Eureka flag/That’s hopelessly lost and tattered/ Remember you’re as precious as a corner-piece/ We search for you first to get started/ There is something big on Little Bridge/ Not a beanstalk that leads to a giant/ But another day in the life of Ballarat/ All of this gold at the surface poetry, little bridge street, ballarat

Discusses what does it feel like to be an Australian in 1959? A critique on our advanced national adolescence, limitations of our artist's creativity. We are not English or America - how do we compare? Australians want to be told they are better, the country anxious to hear well of itself. (This perhaps is related to item D015.)Typewritten, pencil edits, quarto, 4 pages, pages 6-9they're a weird mob, nino culotta, 1959 australia, cyril pearl, on the beach, so you want to be an australian, sidney nolan, john ely burchard, robin boyd, manuscript

Searing critique on the public apathy of the environment in which we live, as well as the dichotomy of the professional view of the city and suburbs. Boyd imagines what Melbourne might be like in year 2001.Original manuscript of an article published as 'Melbourne 2001 AD' in "The Australian", 05.03.1969. This is the second of a series of three articles about Melbourne published on consecutive days (see D022 and D024).Typewritten (c copy), quarto, 7 pagesmelbourne, trams, flies, road congestion, robin boyd, manuscript

The handwritten letter addresses Mrs McNaughton (also known as Kathleen "Kitty" Hepworth), thanking her for her gift to Ruyton Girls' School. The Ruytonian December 1952 also acknowledges this gift, describing Mrs McNaughton as having "presented the school with a beautiful Ruyton flag." Kathleen McNaughton was a former Ruyton student, having enrolled in 1925. The letter is signed by Helen Cole. Research indicates that the Ruyton flag was probably one used in inter and intra-school athletic competitions known as 'flag races', which were popular in the first half of the 20th century. In such races, teams ran relay-style, with their School's flag held aloft in the manner of an 18th century soldier charging into battle. Each flag was an important public symbol of school identity, and was made with care and used with pride. Though once a ubiquitous part of any school's sporting equipment, one flag races fell out of favour in the later 20th century, racing flags were usually discarded. However, it is unclear whether the flag gifted by Mrs McNaughton was indeed used for flag racing.The record has strong historic significance as it was written by a former notable student, Helen Gordon (maiden name Cole). Helen started at Little Ruyton in Prep in 1940 and finished Year 12 in 1952 as School Captain, Bromby Captain, Form Captain for Matric, Tennis Captain, Hockey Captain, Swimming Vice Captain, and an award for Best All-Round Girl. She also played baseball for Victoria. After finishing school, Helen went on to graduate from the University of Melbourne as a physiotherapist in 1956. Her first position at age 19 involved setting up clinics with the Victorian Health Department Poliomyelitis Rural division. Helen’s strong ties to Ruyton continued when she held the position of President of the Old Ruytonians’ Association from the start of 1966 to the end of 1967. In 2019, Helen received an Order of Australia Medal for service to community health as a physiotherapist. She was also the recipient of the 2022 Victorian Senior Achiever Award at Parliament House. Helen passed away in July 2023 at age 88. The record's significance is further enhanced by its strong provenance, having been produced by Ruyton Girls' School and donated to the Archives by a familial connection.One loose sheet of cream coloured paper containing a handwritten letter, and printed with Ruyton Girls' School's name and emblem.Obverse: TELEPHONE / HAWTHORN 331 / R / RUYTON GIRLS' GRAMMAR SCHOOL / RECTE ET FIDE LITER / SELBORNE ROAD. / KEW E.4. / Dear Mrs Macnaughton, / On behalf of the Ruyton / girls, I would like to thank you most / sincerely for your generous gift of our / new Ruyton flag. / As we have not had one for so / many years, this one will be most / acceptable, and we hope ^ we will be able / to exhibit in the youth marches and / on other occasions / Last week it was shown in / assembly, and everyone was so thrilled / that we are eagerly looking forward / to an opportunity to show it off. / Thanking you once again / Yours sincerely / Helen Cole / (Head Prefect) / Reverse: RGS008/2024/0008 /ruyton girls' school, students, school, ruyton, victoria, high school, senior school, day school, letter, old ruytonians association, kew

B&w photographsindigenous health, health and hygiene, koori community workshops, health research, onemda, njernda aboriginal corporation, vaccho, wathaurong aboriginal cooperative, gippsland and east gippsland aboriginal cooperative