Large demijohn donated by Tomlinson, Connie Miss) daughter of Tomlinson, John (Mr) who worked in Temple's then Herbert's store, then his own business - very keen worker for starting Orbost Hospital. Father was also secretary of Loyal Orbost Lodge for 21 years.Miss Tomlinson owned Connort (now Moogji building) and worked as a secretary at the Orbost Shire Council.This item is an example of an early 20th century ceramic container. The Tomlinson family was a prominent Orbost family in the early to mid 20th century.Large cream-coloured demi-john with screw top lid with rubber seal. Cylindrical body with domed shoulder, screw stoneware stopper. Handle from shoulder to neck.NOXO Products Pty Ltd Melbournedemijohn tomlinson-connie container-commercial stoneware ceramics

This item is an example of an early 20th century ceramic container.Large stoneware jar with dark brown colour up top and cream colour below. Indented line near top.jar stoneware ceramics containers-commercial

This is an example of an early 20th century ceramic container.Small stoneware dripping jar. Wide lip. Top half of jar is beige, bottom cream coloured.jar container ceramics stoneware domestic food-storage preservation

This biscuit barrel is an example of an early 20th century domestic item.Medium sized ceramic biscuit barrel with silver rim, handle and lid. White background decorated with red, pink and yellow roses.biscuit-barrel domestic-items-container ceramics

The 1846 London Directory lists David Bumsted & Co., trading at 86 Lower Thames Street, 35 Bridge Wharf, City Road Basin & 338 Wapping High Street Droitwich, as a salt merchant. The London Gazette had the following announcement dated 30th November 1887 advising his partnership with John Campbell Bumsted, carrying on business at 36, King William-street, in the city of London, as Salt Merchants, is dissolved as and from this date; and that the business will be continued to be carried on by the said John Campbell Bumsted alone.A rare item now sought after by collector of ceramics and significant as a collectors item from the late 19th century.Glazed Container; cream coloured ceramic salt jar, round shaped, Has lion and unicorn emblem and inscription impressed on outside. "D.BUMSTEAD & CO.\ ROYAL BRITISH TABLE SALT \ 86 LOWER THAMES ST \ LONDON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, ceramic container, salt jar, d. bumstead & co, london salt merchant, food and drink, doulton & co

One of the first documented mentions of pudding can be found in Homer's Odyssey where a blood pudding roasted in a pig's stomach is described. This original meaning of a pudding as a sausage is retained in black pudding, which is a blood sausage originating in the United Kingdom and Ireland made from pork or beef blood, with pork fat or beef suet, and a cereal. Another early documented recipe for pudding is a reference to asida, found in a tenth century Arabic cookbook by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq called Kitab al-Ṭabīḫ (Arabic: كتاب الطبيخ, The Book of Dishes). It was described as a thick pudding of dates cooked with clarified butter (samn). A recipe for asida was also mentioned in an anonymous Hispano-Muslim cookbook dating to the 13th century. In the 13th and 14th centuries, in the mountainous region of the Rif along the Mediterranean coast of Morocco, flour made from lightly grilled barley was used in place of wheat flour. A recipe for asida that adds argan seed oil was documented by Leo Africanus (c. 1465–1550), the Arab explorer known as Hasan al-Wazan in the Arab world. According to the French scholar Maxime Rodinson, asida were typical foods among the Bedouin of pre-Islamic and, probably, later times. In the United Kingdom and some of the Commonwealth countries, the word pudding can be used to describe both sweet and savoury dishes. Unless qualified, however, the term in everyday usage typically denotes a dessert; in the United Kingdom, pudding is used as a synonym for a dessert course. Puddings had their 'real heyday...', according to food historian Annie Gray, '...from the seventeenth century onward'. It is argued that 'the future of the boiled suet pudding as one of England's national dishes was assured only when the pudding cloth came into use' and although puddings boiled in cloths may have been mentioned in the medieval era, one of the earliest mentions is in 1617 in a recipe for Cambridge pudding, a pudding cloth is indicated; 'throw your pudding in, being tied in a fair cloth; when it is boiled enough, cut it in the midst, and so serve it in'. The pudding cloth is said, according to food historian C. Anne Wilson, to have revolutionised puddings. 'The invention of the pudding-cloth or bag finally severed the link between puddings and animal guts. Puddings could now be made at any time, and they became a regular part of the daily fare of almost all classes. Recipes for them proliferated.' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PuddingPuddings and pudding making have evolved over the years, and continue to do so. White ceramic pudding bowl with fluted decoration on the outside.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, puddings, ceramics

The aims of the School was "To provide a Technical Training which will prepare girls for their future life's work. This school provides a continuity of study between the Primary and Senior Technical School (School of Mines) classes. This supplies a long felt want in giving a preliminary training for Technical Art, Craft, Commercial, and Industrial Education. It must, however, be distinctly understood that these Preparatory Classes do not fully qualify girls in any of the subjects, but rather discover their aptitude for some line of technical work and thoroughly prepare the to specialise in that particular branch.Prospectus for girls technical education at the Ballarat School of Mines and the Ballarat Technical Art Schoolgirls education, ballarat technical girls' school, ballarat school of mines, ballarat technical art school, commercial, leatherwork, photography, ticket witing, wood carving, drawing, metal work, lithography, dressmaking, millinery, industrial design, scholarships, shorthand, typewriting, ceramics, bookbinding, french polishing, wood inlay

Stereoscopy (also called stereoscopic or 3-D imaging) refers to a technique for creating or enhancing the illusion of depth in an image by presenting two offset images separately to the left and right eye of the viewer. Both of these 2-D offset images are then combined in the brain to give the perception of 3-D depth. Three strategies have been used to accomplish this: have the viewer wear eyeglasses to combine separate images from two offset sources, have the viewer wear eyeglasses to filter offset images from a single source separated to each eye, or have the lightsource split the images directionally into the viewer's eyes (no glasses required). Stereographic cards and the stereoscope. Two separate images are printed side-by-side. When viewed without a stereoscopic viewer the user is required to force his eyes either to cross, or to diverge, so that the two images appear to be three. Then as each eye sees a different image, the effect of depth is achieved in the central image of the three. Stereograms cards are frequently used by orthoptists and vision therapists in the treatment of many binocular vision and accommodative disorders. Source: www.wikipedia.org Wooden viewer with two glass "windows", separating divider between them. Sliding cross-piece which holds the photocard between wire holders. Turned handle.home, stereoscope, photography, 3d, postcards, entertainment, viewers

The cupels were made by a cupel making machine that had been transferred from the Ballarat School of Mines to the Ballarat Institute of Technology in 1970. It is possibly the same machine used by the first students at the Ballarat School of Mines in 1870. Small containers with curved inner shape. .1) Roasting dish or scorifier - shallow curved cup of clay. .2 & .3) Cupels of cylindrical shape with shallow hemispherical top surface. ballarat school of mines, cupel, assay, kiln, university of ballarat, mt helen, clay, ceramics

Helen Ross was a student of the Ballarat Technical Art School, a division of the Ballarat School of Mines. Edith Lawn was a teacher in the Art School. 15 slides in a yellow lidded Kodak Slide box. The images relate to Ballarat Technical Art School Student Helen Ross and Barbara (?)'s Diploma of Sculpture work. On lid 'Diploma Sculpture'ballarat school of mines, ballarat technical art school, ceramics, sculpture, neville bunning, helen ross, peggy ross, edith lawn, diploma sculpture

Photograph of Michael Wilson standing beside a shelf of hand thrown pots. michael wilson, ceramics, pottery

John Nunn was one of the earliest brickmakers on record in Ballarat and has a road named for him - Nunn Street - where he resided..1) An oblong-shaped timber box open at top. Only butt joints are used. Iron strapping wraps around the vertical pieces of timber and across the top edge of the box. The longest pieces of vertical timber protrude past the end and are shaped like solid handles - one is broken. On each end piece there are small, blank iron plates held with screws. The base piece of timber is made from two different width weatherboard-style timbers. The nails in the base piece appear to be hand-made. Remnants of clay still line the interior. .2) Light brown brick. Please note: Brick mould and brick may be from different sources..1) Handwritten (possibly in ink) on one long side: MR H. G. SMITH ...(illegible) Ballarat .2) Imprinted: J. NUNNjohn nunn, j nunn, brick, mould, brick mould, industrial mould, brickmaker, ballarat, clay, ceramics

Large printed timetable for Technical School examinations in 1901. Subjects included Chemistry, Geology, Asssaying, Hydraulics, Agriculture, Engineering , Mine Surveying, Algebra, Mineralogy, petrology, Botany, Trigonometry, Euclid, Land Surveying, Steam and gas Engines, Applied Mechanics, Drawing, painting, engineering drawing, building construction, architecture, drapery, modelled design, casting clay models, composition of form and colour, Lettering, Wood Carving, historic ornament, Wood Carving. .1) Trade Subjects .2) Other subjects, including artexaminations, technical schools, trades, art, technical art school, timetable, clay modelling, ceramics

.1) Ballarat School of Mines Sound Installation of Plumbing Shop, by architect John Firth, 1954 .2) Plan and sections of the proposed Scheme - conversion of Ballarat School of Mines Clay Mill Building to Fluid Mechanics Laboratory, by architect John E. Dixon, 1962 .3) Plan for Ballarat School of Mines New Sanitary Accomodation, 1967 .4) Plan for Ballarat School of Mines Extension to Existing Workshop by architect Percy E. Everett. The plan includes the former Ballarat Supreme Courtjohn firth, percy everett, john e. dixon, ballarat school of mines, clay, ceramics, plumbing, buildings, architectural plan

Newspaper clippings relating to the Ballarat School of Mines and its students. This also includes the Ballarat Junior Technical School and the Ballarat Girls' Technical School. Selected items * Courier 27 May 1961 - Apprenticeship - Training Today for Tomorrow * Courier 22 February 1922 - Hopes for University Education in 1963 * More Women Graduates Needed * 30 July 1963 - Linking Technical and Liberal Education Streams * Courier 2 November - SMB's New Role in New Syllabus * 23 November 1963 0 New School Diploma courses explained * Courier 31 March 1964 - Artists and art critics: What young people thought of art show. * The Age, 25 March 1965 - Martin Report Urges Extension of High Education * Courier 11 June 1965 - Nuclear Power Won't be Missedr.w. richards, dick richards, john gilbert, ceramics, e.w. doney, antarctica, city of ballarat craftsmen certificates, scrap book, ken wach, bjts fees register, allen bourquin, p. collier, j. crisp, john dulfer, fenner, charles, gillin, murray, gray, thomas, j. graham hopwood, hunting, f, wesley lancaster, landells, r., lochhead, j.s., lochhead, james, mctaggert, mavis, mcvitty, henry moritz, moritz, henry, kathleen rice, albert w. steane, stevens, don, kenneth wach, ian g. whitcher, noel whitcher, a.m (bill) wilkinson, harold yates, international students, asian students, richard tan, jack tay, andrew vu, zulkilfie h. abdullah, sebastopol technical school foundations, charles fenner, e. elsbury, c. o'toole, w. lancaster, v. nicholson, douglas vendy, richards medal, william hudson, a.j. bethune, ballarat school of mines workshops, m.y. jamagagni, peter agrums, thai, j. boonsoong, h. trudinger, kevin whiter, brewery chimney, murray gillan, don stevens, bella guerin, hester darby retirement, rubie lonie, cadets, f.g. procter retirement, albert coates, d.e. richardson, lydiard st closure, geoff brown, neville bunning, walter reimann, robert norton, jill norton, b. bryan, kaspars bitans, martin report, edith lawn, mavis mctaggart retirement, richard chong, zulkiflie h. abdullah, alumni, ian whitcher, l.f.j. hillman, h. elliott, hester darby, duke of edinburgh, philips electrical industries pty ltd, lois morris, ballarat school of mines banner, embroidery, craftsman certificate, technical training week, apprenticeships, 3rd university, generator, j.j. skuja, sebastopol technical school, pine plantation, art students, centenary medal, bathtub race, tippett hall, bath tub run, metallurgy, lydiard street closure, honor blazer, soil studies, rolls royce car engine, jon rowe', allan bourquin, ruby loney, lindsay hillman, yates geological centre, geoffrey mainwawaring, ballarat school of mines renovations, ross gray, casper bitans, apprenticeship training, boat race, apprenticeship week, f.g. proctor, mount clear site, john jungwirth, ballarat school of mines open night, wayne johnson, j. hanford stevens, peter richards, r.c. chan, mavis mctaggert, gladstone procter

White soft covered book with a listing of each 3rd Year Visual Art Student at Ballarat University College. Each open page features a photographic image of the artist in the studi, and an artist statement.ballarat university college, ceramics, elaine d'esterre, aleander purdie, f. sleeman, end of year exhibition, eye

The Ballarat School of Mines is a predecessor institution of Federation University Australia. Bound copies of the Ballarat School or Mines Students' Magazine. 1924 * Dr J.R. Pound * Noel Hay Obituary * The History of Chemistry * Literary Society * Herald B. Herbert * Chemistry in Modern Life by Val G. Anderson * Chemistry in Literature by J.R. Pound * School Literary Society * Ladies in Pharmacy * Musings on Modern Literature - Mainly Drama (W.G. C.) * Trip to Newcastle * Appreciation of the Masterpieces of Art * The Antique Room * Dressmaking * Pottery * Sloyd * The Mystery of the Atom *Inorganic Evolution by R.S. Russell * Photography * First Aid Club 1926 * The Trip to Morwell * Chemical Excursions (Yallourn) * Eastern Life and Customs by Rex Warrillow * Organic Evolution by Edwin A. Brophy * Chemistry in the Kitchen * Obituary for Professor Alfred Mica Smith * The Historical Development of Patterns i Silk Fabrics * Pottery * Literary Society * Early Evidence of Metallurgy in Britain * Brief Description of the Magnet Silver Mine, Tasmania * The manufacture of Leather Photographs * SMB Athletics Team, winners of the Herald Shield (M. Timmings, L. Evans, F. Sheahan, R. Collins, A. Murfett, W. Hughes, L. Hillman * SMB Football Team * Ballarat Technical Art School Tennis Four * SMB Girls' Basketball Team * SMB GIrls Hockey Team * Ballarat Junior Technical School Scholarship and Studentship Winners * On Punctuation Advertisements: Sunshine Biscuits, Harris Powell and Sandford, W. Gribble & Co., Gilbert Motors, T.J. Haymes The Wallpaper King, C. Marks and Co., Wilson's Tailors and Mercers, George S. Grant, Miss A. Corin Art Worker, Tunbridges, Felton, Grimwade & Co., Hasten and Ewins, Ballarat Wireless Stores, Fred A. Reed, Suttons, E. Hall-Jones, Stansfield and Smith, Ballarat Gas Company, Richards and Co Studio, F.H. Drew, Adam Scott, R.A. Hudson, Huttons, J.A. Holland, A.E. White, F. Barrow Monumental Sculptor, R. Young, H.A. Evans, Alexandria Tea Rooms, W. Cornell Chemist, Black Cat Tea Rooms, J.A. Reynolds, A.M. Palmer, Morris Cars and Trucks, Mrs Stones, Millers The Clothiers, T.G. Skewes, Wattle TEa Rooms, H.B. Selby, Middleton and Morris, C.P.A. Taylor, Thornton Studios, Fred Irwin, Isaac Abraham, Ballarat Radio Listening-In, Baxter and Stubbs 1927 * Chemists Trip to Melbourne (Mount Lyell Chemical Works, Footscray, Yarraville * Literary Society * Mr J.N. Rowell 1928 * Prohibition in U.S.A. by Ed A. Brophy * Dr. J.W. Mellor and His Work at Stoke, England by Reginald C. Callister * The Science of Chemistry by C.A. Schache * Trip to Yallourn (Brown Coal Deposits, Steam Plant at Yallourn, Switchgear and Transformers, Briquette Factory * Walhalla Past and Present by G.E.B. * The Hand Loom * Precious Stones 1929 * The Old Brewery * The History of Chemistry by J.R. Pound * Occurrence of Mineral Oil in Gippsland * Experiences with Malayan Chinese by R. Warrillow * Organise Colors (Dyestuff Pigments) in Rubber Goods 1930 * News from Chine by Henry Kum Yuen * L'Art Moderne * The Story of Clay by T.H. Trengrove * A Glimpse of England * The Beginnings of Arithmeticballarat school of mines, pottery, ceramics, reginald callister, metallurgy, chemistry, j. pound, alfred mica smith, herald shield, harold herbert, lindsay hillman, john rowell, j.r. pound, noel hay, drawing from antique, yallourn excusion, walhalla, sunshine biscuits, harris powell and sandford, w. gribble & co., gilbert motors, t.j. haymes, the wallpaper king, c. marks and co., wilson's tailors and mercers, george s. grant, miss a. corin art worker, tunbridges, felton, grimwade & co., hasten and ewins, ballarat wireless stores, fred a. reed, suttons, e. hall-jones, stansfield and smith, ballarat gas company, richards and co studio, r.a. hudson, huttons, j.a. holland, a.e. white, f. barrow monumental sculptor, r. young, h.a. evans, alexandria tea rooms, w. cornell chemist, black cat tea rooms, j.a. reynolds, a.m. palmer, morris cars and trucks, mrs stones, millers the clothiers, t.g. skewes, wattle tea rooms, h.b. selby, middleton and morris, c.p.a. taylor, thornton studios, fred irwin, isaac abraham, ballarat radio listening-in, baxter and stubbs, mount lyell chemical works, footscray, c.a. schache, yallourn briquette factory, t.h. trengrove, history of chemistry, excursions, morwell, morwell excursion, women in pharmacy, mt lyall, excursion, slloyd, drawing from the antique, james pound, yallourn, yallourn excursion, ballarat arch of victory, mt macedon, f.h. drew, adam scott, university women

Two women look at a ceramic pot in the M.B. John Building at the Ballarat School of Mines. They are Miriam Gould and Pat Guy, the donor of the Adrienne Guy Award.12ceramics, pottery, adrienne guy award, miriam gould, pat guy

Black and white photograph of a man stacking a large kiln at the Ballarat School of Mines.ceramics, pottery, ballarat school of mines

Given its size, this keg was used either for beer, or a soft drink.Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Tan coloured ceramic cask with light and dark brown rings as decoration.There is a hole at the top and one near the base on the side that takes a wooden bung.H 46 (symbol) 113flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, keg, ceramic, liquid

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Ballarat School of Mines was established in 1870.Grey hard covered scrapboks with clippings relating to the Ballarat School of Mines, including: 24-5-1965 - Mildura Students at School of Mines 16-9-1965 - Ballarat Junior Technical School Mothers' Club Clock 23-11-1965 - Plan for Mall in Lydiard Street 29-03-1966 - Punch card equipment for School of Mines 10-05-1966 - Apprentice Craftsmen Certificates 25-7-1966 - Ian Barker 01-08-1966 - Woman Diplomate - Jennifer Drummond and Sue Milbourne 05 August 1967 - New Woolclassing and Motor Mechanics Building on the corner of Albert Street and Grant Street 09-09-1966 - New School site 23-09-1966 - Inspection of gaol site 22-09-1966 - Murray Gillin 19-10-1966 - Michael Young 26-01-1967 - A new site for SMB (Mt Helen Campus) 06-05-1967 - Geology Gift to SMB (William Baragwanath)ballarat school of mines, murray gillin, gerald jenzen, ludovio hart, photography, mount helen campus, ron quick, lydiard street closure, ballarat junior technical school student accomodation, r.r. watson, phillip law, martin report, punch card equipment, ken ogden, ian barker, jennifer drummond, sue milbourne, women and physics, greg mcrae, jan butterworth, former ballarat gaol, peter donaldson, michae young, mount clear site, j.r. pound, eric sharman, chris sanos, john gorton, zaiga baltrocis, motor mechanics & woolclassing building, women, women diplomates, jennifer drummong, technical education growrh, e.j. barker, mothers club, w. johnson, pottery, ceramics, ian billington, matriculation, victoria institute of colleges, punch cards, computer, craftsman certificates, new campus site, architecture, michael young, sebastopol technical school, ballarat school of mines master plan, fourth university, 4th university, r. giles, william baragwanath geology collection, phil day, john phillips, greg strang, plumbing, centenary, langi logan minefield, a.l. mckenzie, peter bennett, r.w. richards medal, woolclassing, motor mechanics, new building, albert street, grant street, pound