3 Cotton doilies, possibly hand made in the 1950s for domestic use. Doilies like this were used to protect furniture from scratches and for ornamental use. These doilies are crocheted using fine cotton thread in a nine-point leaf design within a circle.3 cotton doilies (small ornamental mat), cream crochet cotton. doilies, crochet

3 Cotton doilies, possibly hand made in the 1950s for domestic use. Doilies like this were used to protect furniture from scratches and for ornamental use. These doilies are crocheted using fine cotton thread in a nine-point leaf design within a circle.3 cotton doilies (small ornamental mat), cream crochet cotton. doilies, crochet

2 Cotton doilies, possibly hand made in the 1950s for domestic use. Doilies like this were used to protect furniture from scratches and for ornamental use. These doilies are crocheted using fine cotton thread in a circular design.2 cotton doilies (small ornamental mat), cream crochet cotton. doilies, crochet

Digital image of a banner from Rotary International in GreensboroughPart of a collection of miscellaneous historical images with a connection to the local area.Digital image of banner, cream fabric with blue and gold writing and logo. "From Greensborough Victoria Greetings" and logobanners, rotary club of greensborough, greensborough rotary

Ladies' gloves for formal and semi-formal wear come in three lengths for women: wrist, elbow, and opera or full-length (over the elbow, usually reaching to the biceps but sometimes to the full length of the arm). In the late 19thC and early 20thC Gloves were expected to be worn for both daytime and evening wear with most types of outfits. These gloves were probably made in Hong Kong then as now a place where fashions can be made cheaply because the cost of labour is inexpensive.The family of Carole Pedersen-Green were early settlers in Moorabbin Shire and their Danish heritage is an example of the many nationalities who lived and worked there.A pair of lady's cream nylon 3/4 length gloves. c1960clothing, gloves, formal wear, craftwork, lace making, dress etiquette, satin, silk, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, fashion, hong kong, rayon, nylon, pedersen-green carole, green carole, denmark

Ladies' gloves for formal and semi-formal wear come in three lengths for women: wrist, elbow, and opera or full-length (over the elbow, usually reaching to the biceps but sometimes to the full length of the arm). In the late 19thC and early 20thC Gloves were expected to be worn for both daytime and evening wear with most types of outfits. The most expensive gloves are custom-made of kid leather.The Box family were early settlers in Moorabbin Shire and resided in 'Box Cottage' 1865 -1913 The Eldridge family were early settlers in Moorabbin Shire Carol Eldridge was the Daughter in law of Alf and Avis Box, descendants of John Box 1841-1913 A pair of lady's cream, nylon, wrist length gloves with a pearl buttonALL NYLON / MADE IN ENGLAND / 7clothing, gloves, nylon, england, moorabbin, bentleigh, brighton, box elizabeth, box william, box avis, eldridge carol, early settlers, pioneers, market gardeners, box john, sheldrake martha, box alonzo

Ladies' gloves for formal and semi-formal wear come in three lengths for women: wrist, elbow, and opera or full-length (over the elbow, usually reaching to the biceps but sometimes to the full length of the arm). In the late 19thC and early 20thC Gloves were expected to be worn for both daytime and evening wear with most types of outfits. The most expensive gloves are custom-made of kid leather. The gloves were probably made in Hong Kong, then as now, a place where fashions can be made cheaply because the cost of labour is inexpensive.The family of Carole Pedersen-Green were early settlers in Moorabbin Shire. Carole was a founding member of CMHSA pair of lady's cream, nylon, wrist length gloves with a frilled edgeclothing, gloves, nylon, hong kong, moorabbin, bentleigh, brighton, early settlers, pioneers, market gardeners, pedersen-green carole, green carole, denmark

General use of milk bottles is usually associated with the 20th century , with occasional late 19th century. Initially, milk was delivered in cans stacked upright in a wagon At each stop, someone, usually the wife of the house, would bring a pitcher or a pail to the wagon, and the milk man would ladle out the desired amount of milk. Needless to say, this practice was hazardous and unhealthy. The New York State Tuberculosis Association condemned the practice of selling “loose milk,” still being conducted in New York City in 1922, as a major cause for the spread of tuberculosis (Glass Container1922:8). It is probable that the delivery of milk in glass containers became universal shortly thereafter. General use of milk bottles is usually associated with the 20th century , with occasional late 19th century. Initially, milk was delivered in cans stacked upright in a wagon. At each stop, someone, usually the wife of the house, would bring a pitcher or a pail to the wagon, and the milk man would ladle out the desired amount of milk. Needless to say, this practice was hazardous and unhealthy. The New York State Tuberculosis Association condemned the practice of selling “loose milk,” still being conducted in New York City in 1922, as a major cause for the spread of tuberculosis (Glass Container1922:8). It is probable that the delivery of milk in glass containers became universal shortly thereafter. Melbourne Glass Bottle Works Spotswood 1880 - 1990. made bottles for various companies. Milk cartons first came to Australia in 1958, when the Model Dairy in Melbourne began packaging milk in 150 ml and 500 ml cartons. At the time, 160,000 new glass bottles were needed in Melbourne alone every week to keep up the delivery of 1.3 million bottles of milk a day. In 1970, the blow-moulded disposable plastic milk bottle was introduced. In 1987, only about 2% of milk was still being sold in glass bottles. Glass milk bottles are now rare. A clear glass milk or cream bottle 'Imperial' 1/4 Pintaround base : IMPERIAL 1/4 PINTmelbourne, early settlers, market gardeners, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, manufactured glass, milk bottles, dairy farmers, dairies

Quarterly ticket issued to members of the congregation of the Methodist Church in Greensborough. This ticket belonged to Mr William Partington and was issued in June 1911.The Partington family are Greensborough pioneers and had long membership of the Methodist Church in Greensborough.Cream coloured paper ticket, black writing within black border.In black pen "Will Partington" and the letter "H"partington family, william partington, methodist church greensborough

Metrication in Australia took place between 1970 and 1988. Before then, Australia mostly used the imperial system for measurement. This tea-towel is a handy reminder of conversions.This item was designed to assist people to understand the conversion and as a reference to make conversions from imperial to metric. It is in mint condition (never used)Linen tea-towel. Cream background with blue, red and black print.Conversion tables for metric stencilled on tea-towel.imperial measurement, metric measurement, metric conversion, tea-towels

Names a newsagent who operated in Liebig Street in mid 20th century. G W. ClarkeTypical wrapping paper of the time and provides a list of items typically sold by newsagents at that time.Cream paper bag, with dark blue text inside a rectangular boxCLARKE’S/FOR CARDS/NEWSAGENTS/STATIONERY, BOOKS, GAMES,/SOUVENIRS, MUSIC, PAPER BACKS, ETC./ LIEBIG STREET, WARRNAMBOOL/ Phone: 2407warrnambool, clarke’s, liebig street, stationery, newsagents, clarke gw

child as yet to be identifiedThompson Collection Mina Moore photographerStudio photograph mounted on cream card of female child (3 years) Front: Mina Moore (photographer, hand written). Inscription: Peggy at 3 years old. With love to her Godfather. May 1907 Back: Mina Moore Auditorium Building, Collins Street Melbourne Australia. Hand written in pencil: Green Be?lthompson collection, nightingale, mina moore

Albert John (Jack) Bedggood son of Samuel John Bedggood and Esther Ruth Thompson. Jack born 1903 Box Hill, died 1979 HeidelbergThompson collectionPhotograph on cream card of blonde boy in velvet suit with lace collarMaker's mark: Melbourne Melbourne on front Back inscription: Jack Bedggood when a child Esthers second son our nephewthompson collection, nightingale, bedggood

The child photographed was Frances Ruby Thompson (1900 - 1967) daughter of Albert Paul Thompson (b. 1865;d.1944) and Elizabeth Anna (nee) Fleming (b.1874;m.1899;d1954)Thompson Collection documenting family histories of nursery peoples of the DandenongsSepia photograph on cream board of blonde infant girl in dress and bonnet. Makers Marks: Eden Photo Studios Paris Panel superior finish Melbourne and Sydney. Inscription on back: 'Fransis Thompson Uncle Alls first (Francis)thompson collection, fleming

Satirical photograph for coronation George V. Previous cataloguer states this photograph is intended as a joke photograph, commemorating the coronation of King George V. She has linked the subject matter of the photograph to the tour the new King and Queen made to India in 1911 to accept the decree as the Emperor and Empress of IndiaSepia photograph on cream board. Satirical photograph for the coronation of George VSatirical descriptions of the roles the participants/actors have played. see photothompson collection

Wedding stockings, c. 1920, worn by Mrs C Reynolds. A pair of cream silk stockings. The toes and tops are reinforced with cotton thread. silk-stockings female-underwear costumes-1920s wedding-stockings

This knife was used by Lottie Rem who ran the cookhouse at Astergren;s Timber Mill at Cabbage Tree in East Gippsland from 1954 until 1966.. It was bought in Orbost around 1957 - 1958. Sited on the banks of the Cabbage Tree Creek, the township was built by the timber mills to house their workers. Although the timber mills have disappeared, some of the buildings still remain. The "Cook House" and "Manager's House" are two buildings. The Cook House was built to supply meals to the workers of the Alstergren Mill. Some of the original interior walls were made from hessian and wallpaper. The few houses to survive to today are now used as private dwellings.The Cabbage Tree Creek township was established to support the booming timber industry of the mid 20th century. Five timber mills worked full time supporting the families that were drawn to the area's wealth of natural resources. this item is associated with the history of Cabbage Tree.A stainless steel serrated edged knife with a cream coloured handle (bone?)on blade -""Made in Sheffield expressly for Orbost Hardware and Timber Co, Orbost"alstergren-timber-cabbage-tree rem-lottie cook-house-alstergren's-timber-mill bread-knife-orbost-hardware

This item is believed to have been made in or around the Staffordshire area in the United Kingdom. Over 1500 pottery firms have operated in Stoke-on-Trent since the early 1700's - Some lasted only a few years and some for well over 200 years. Some potters built and owned their own works. Many others were tenants in works built by others and a succession of potters occupied the same works. It was also a common practice for a works to be split between two different pottery companies or for a larger manufacturer to let out a smaller section of his works to a potter who would make wares which were not of interest to the pot works owner. Some potters purchased 'blanks' from other manufacturers and put their own decoration on them some items have two back stamps some have no marks at all. This adds to the confusion and frustration of trying to trace details of a particular manufacturer such as the subject item.The subject item at this time cannot be associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance regards manufacturer is unknown, item assessed as a collection asset as it is believed to have been produced well before 1950.Container for toiletries. Lid and base. Cream porcelain with red floral decoration. Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, porcelain container, toilet container, beauty container, ceramic, decorative object, pottery object

The 1846 London Directory lists David Bumsted & Co., trading at 86 Lower Thames Street, 35 Bridge Wharf, City Road Basin & 338 Wapping High Street Droitwich, as a salt merchant. The London Gazette had the following announcement dated 30th November 1887 advising his partnership with John Campbell Bumsted, carrying on business at 36, King William-street, in the city of London, as Salt Merchants, is dissolved as and from this date; and that the business will be continued to be carried on by the said John Campbell Bumsted alone.A rare item now sought after by collector of ceramics and significant as a collectors item from the late 19th century.Glazed Container; cream coloured ceramic salt jar, round shaped, Has lion and unicorn emblem and inscription impressed on outside. "D.BUMSTEAD & CO.\ ROYAL BRITISH TABLE SALT \ 86 LOWER THAMES ST \ LONDON"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, ceramic container, salt jar, d. bumstead & co, london salt merchant, food and drink, doulton & co

Cream blue feint lined writing pad paper with blue handwritingletter, rock-street, ivanhoe, talbot, newstead, daylesford, mining, baragwanath

The Ballarat Base Hospital trained nurses for 100 years. Today Ballarat nurses train at the Univesity of Ballarat or ACU (Aquinas campus). Matron M.S. Ogden (Shirley Falkinder) became president of the Ballarat College of Advanced Education.Cream and red annual report booklet of 32 pages. Includes images.university of ballarat, ballarat college of advanced education, nursing, nurse, ann neilson, sarah bishop, ballarat base hospital, m duggan, e macauley, c richardson, nurse education, rosa quartermain, ms ogden, shirley falkinder, health, shirley ogden

cream paper with black typing smugging of ink folded twice brownedengraving of symbol Nation Scheme for disabled men stamped 74897london, county, council, frank wright

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

Pie Dish, ceramic, cream brown colour, has crazing of the glaze.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, pie dish, ceramic dish, ceramic pie dish

Photograph mounted on cream card. Names of students printed under the photograph..

Photograph mounted on cream card. Names of students printed under the photograph..