Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Small Chinese porcelain cup, Pale blue with pink and green handpainted flower design, glazed.chinese, cup, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, handpainted

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Small Chinese porcelain cup, glazed, with a pink and green handpainted flower design on a pale blue base.chinese, cup, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, handpainted

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese stoneware ginger jar (00232.1) with lid (00232.2), Mainly green glaze, base of jar and inside of lid not glazed.chinese, ginger, jar, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, stoneware, harrietville

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese stoneware ginger jar, grey with blue pattern. Glazed.chinese, ginger, jar, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, stoneware, buckland

Silver bowl on stand with round base, and with a scallop pattern. The bowl has a dot and diamond pattern around the edge.E.P.A.I.N.S.silver, bowl, fruit stand, tableware

Silver plate on copper fruit dish, supported on three feet. Edge of dish decorated with a grapevine pattern. Indents for a handle attachment - handle not included.Luke \ Rhine - Gold \ by \ Paramount \ Reproduction Silver on copper.dish, fruit, tableware, silver

Silver fruit stand with a square plate and a round base. Plate has a bud design at the edge with curled indent on each side.Crusader Plate E.P.N.S. A1crusader, plate, dish, tableware, fruit stand

Silver egg warmer. Egg shaped with egg holder insert and spirit burner. Three animal shaped legs, with a dove and leaves on the lid.5 hallmarks 14380egg warmer, silver, utensils, tableware

This mug is one of many artefacts recovered from the wreck of the sailing ship Loch Ard during the 1970s. The ship was wrecked in 1878 on the southwest coast of Victoria. Only two of the 54 people on board survived.The mug is significant for its association with the wreck of the LOCH ARD, which is listed on Victoria's Heritage Register.Pewter mug, encrusted and dented body, with a hole near the handle. Mug's sides curve inwards at the centre. A large handle is attached. It was recovered from the wreck of the Loch Ard. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, pewter mug, pewter, mug, loch ard, tableware, drinking vessel, tankard

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

Early settler women were skilled craft workers and crocheted doilies and other napery for their household. This Doiley is a cover for a jug or cup, with the glass beads providing the weight to secure it, to protect the contents from flies, insects and dust while on the kitchen table.Early settler women were skilled in dressmaking, crochet, knitting as they made clothes, furnishings, drapery and tableware for their families c1900A cotton, crocheted doily with a teapot pattern and green beads at edges to keep it in place when protecting contents of a jug or cupkitchen equipment, crochetwork, napery, doilies, milk jugs, early settlers, market gardeners, cooking utensils, kitchenware, castiron cooking pots, blacksmiths, slow cooking, moorabbin shire, bentleigh, mckinnon, highett, cheltenham,

Willcox and Gibbs: Serial No. 158679. The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company was founded in 1857 by James E. A. Gibbs and James Willcox and opened its London Office in 1859 at 135 Regent Street . By 1871 the Company's Chief Office for Europe was at 150 Cheapside, London, this office was later moved (post 1885) to 94 - 96 Wigmore Street, then 37 & 39 Moorgate Street (by 1891 to post 1907) and later 20 Fore Street, London . Right from the initial production the manufacturing of the Company's single thread, chain stitch machine was undertaken by Brown & Sharpe, Rhode Island and this continued up until 1948. A special hand crank mechanism was produced in England for the European market, but the general design of the Willcox & Gibbs remained essentially the same throughout its production. The only major improvement was in 1875 when the glass tension discs were replaced with an automatic tension device which ensured the machine could not get out of adjustment. In addition to the domestic hand and treadle machines the company produced a wide range of industrial models. The Company finally closed in 1973. This Willcox & Gibbs came complete with its wooden carry case. The machine was made in America in the late 1860's but it has the ornate hand crank produced at Coalbrookdale near Telford, England which was, in Victorian times, renown for producing high quality ornate iron castings. This machine has the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base casting and it also has a deep wooden base. The cloth plate has various American patent dates, four dating between 1857 & 1860 relating to J. E. A. Gibbs, three dating between 1860 & 1864 relating to Chas H. Willcox (son of James Willcox), the machine was also licensed under five other patents including the infamous Elias Howe patent of 1846. There are only two English patents one for J. E. A Gibbs and the other for James Willcox. In 1887 a W & G Sewing Machine sold in England for 6 pounds , with its box and bits, at a time when the average wage was less than 10/- shillings per week. The early settlers of Moorabbin Shire had to be self sufficient making their own clothes, tableware, bed coverings, furnishings and equipment. The women were skilled dressmakers and craft workers.Willcox and Gibbs: Serial No. 158679. A single thread, chain stitch Sewing Machine with a special hand crank mechanism produced in England for the European market, and the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. This Willcox & Gibbs came complete with its wooden carry case. The machine was made in America c1870 but it has the ornate hand crank produced at Coalbrookdale near Telford, England which was, in Victorian times, renown for producing high quality ornate iron castings. This machine has the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base casting and it also has a deep wooden base. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base castingsewing machines, early settlers, pioneers, moorabbin, brighton, gibbs james, willcox james, willcox henry, new york, america, dressmaking, mateial, machine makers, wrought iron work, telford england

This spoon, made by William Page & Co., is electroplated nickel-silver and was recovered during the late 1960s to early 1970s from an unnamed shipwreck along the coast of Victoria. The shipwrecks in the area range from around the 1840s to the early 1930s. The spoon is part of the John Chance Collection. This spoon is likely to have been recovered be from the wreck of the Loch Ard (1873-1878) as other cutlery in the Flagstaff Hill’s Shipwreck Collection made by William Page was also recovered from the Loch Ard. The ship’s Manifest included a large quantity of cutlery. Also, other objects in the John Chance Collection were also recovered from wreck of the Loch Ard. In the mid-1800s electroplated cutlery became a popular substitute for the traditional but more costly sterling silver pieces. The ‘new’ cutlery was made from a more common base metal, such as nickel or a nickel alloy, then electroplated (coated) with a very thin layer of silver. The eating utensils looked like the expensive, pure silver version but eventually, through use and wear, the base metal would show. Some producers warranted their electroplated silver to be ‘white throughout’. WILLIAM PAGE & CO., BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND - Although the electroplated cutlery of William Page & Co. was made in Birmingham, it does not include the embossed Birmingham Assay’s mark of an ‘anchor’ because the metal used for the spoons is not silver. William Page used various Maker’s Marks on his cutlery. The pattern of five embossed marks on this spoon is a typical example, with the embossed sunken crown containing ‘W P’ being the first in the column of symbols. - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamond William Page established his business in 1834, according to the text around a printed Trademark. The firm William Page & Co. began electroplating in 1855, and from 1880 it operated from Cranemore Street, Cattle’s Grove and also at 55 Albion St, Birmingham. The firm registered a new Trademark [‘W P’ within a diamond boarder within a sunken diamond] in 1897; previously the Mark were the initials WP within a crown, but the British legislation prohibited the use of a ‘crown’ mark on electroplated ware in 1895. In 1936 the firm became William Page & Co. Ltd and became a supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938, marking its products with the ‘broad arrow’ symbol. The firm also traded with the brand names Armour, Asrista, Bolivian Silver, Roman Silver, Roumanian Silver, Silverite and Trevor Plate. Although this spoon is not linked to a particular shipwreck, it is very likely to have come from the wreck of the Loch Ard; the ship’s Manifest includes a large quantity of cutlery. Regardless, it is recognised as being historically significant as an example of cutlery carried onboard a ship as either personal belongings or cargo and brought into Colonial Victoria in the 19th to early 20th century; through this we have added opportunity to interpret Victoria’s social and historical themes of those times. The spoon also has significance for its connection with many similar William Page pieces of cutlery in our collection that were recovered from the wreck of the sailing ship Loch Ard (1873-1878). William Page & Co. of Birmingham is one of the renowned 19th century manufacturers and electroplaters and was supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938. The spoon has added significance, as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver of wrecks, including the Loch Ard, in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value.Spoon; teaspoon, electroplate nickel-silver, discoloured to green and red-brown in places. Fiddle design. Bowl has indents and holes. Five embossed Maker’s Marks on back of handle, arranged in a column from tip towards bowl. Made by William Page and Co., Birmingham. The spoon no longer has its silver plating. The surface has encrustations. Bowl has nicks, indents and holes. Stem is very bent at the shoulder. Discoloured to green and red-brown in places. Embossed Maker Marks - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamondflagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, loch ard, cutlery, flatware, silverware, tableware, eating utensils, dining, spoon, electroplated cutlery, william page & co, william page & co. ltd., birmingham plate, silversmith, antique, vintage, fiddle design, fiddle pattern, teaspoon

This spoon, made by William Page & Co., is electroplated nickel-silver and was recovered during the late 1960s to early 1970s from an unnamed shipwreck along the coast of Victoria. The shipwrecks in the area range from around the 1840s to the early 1930s. The spoon is part of the John Chance Collection. This spoon is likely to have been recovered be from the wreck of the Loch Ard (1873-1878) as other cutlery in the Flagstaff Hill’s Shipwreck Collection made by William Page was also recovered from the Loch Ard. The ship’s Manifest included a large quantity of cutlery. Also, other objects in the John Chance Collection were also recovered from wreck of the Loch Ard. In the mid-1800s electroplated cutlery became a popular substitute for the traditional but more costly sterling silver pieces. The ‘new’ cutlery was made from a more common base metal, such as nickel or a nickel alloy, then electroplated (coated) with a very thin layer of silver. The eating utensils looked like the expensive, pure silver version but eventually, through use and wear, the base metal would show. Some producers warranted their electroplated silver to be ‘white throughout’. WILLIAM PAGE & CO., BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND - Although the electroplated cutlery of William Page & Co. was made in Birmingham, it does not include the embossed Birmingham Assay’s mark of an ‘anchor’ because the metal used for the spoons is not silver. William Page used various Maker’s Marks on his cutlery. The pattern of five embossed marks on this spoon is a typical example, with the embossed sunken crown containing ‘W P’ being the first in the column of symbols. - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamond William Page established his business in 1834, according to the text around a printed Trademark. The firm William Page & Co. began electroplating in 1855, and from 1880 it operated from Cranemore Street, Cattle’s Grove and also at 55 Albion St, Birmingham. The firm registered a new Trademark [‘W P’ within a diamond boarder within a sunken diamond] in 1897; previously the Mark were the initials WP within a crown, but the British legislation prohibited the use of a ‘crown’ mark on electroplated ware in 1895. In 1936 the firm became William Page & Co. Ltd and became a supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938, marking its products with the ‘broad arrow’ symbol. The firm also traded with the brand names Armour, Asrista, Bolivian Silver, Roman Silver, Roumanian Silver, Silverite and Trevor Plate. Although this spoon is not linked to a particular shipwreck, it is very likely to have come from the wreck of the Loch Ard; the ship’s Manifest includes a large quantity of cutlery. Regardless, it is recognised as being historically significant as an example of cutlery carried onboard a ship as either personal belongings or cargo and brought into Colonial Victoria in the 19th to early 20th century; through this we have added opportunity to interpret Victoria’s social and historical themes of those times. The spoon also has significance for its connection with many similar William Page pieces of cutlery in our collection that were recovered from the wreck of the sailing ship Loch Ard (1873-1878). William Page & Co. of Birmingham is one of the renowned 19th century manufacturers and electroplaters and was supplier of spoons to the British Government in 1938. The spoon has added significance, as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver of wrecks, including the Loch Ard, in Victoria’s coastal waters in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Items that come from several wrecks have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value.Spoon; teaspoon, electroplate nickel-silver, silver discoloured to brown. Fiddle design. Five embossed Hallmarks. Five embossed Maker’s Marks on back of handle, arranged in a column from tip towards bowl. Made by William Page and Co., Birmingham. The spoon no longer has its silver plating. Bowl has a cut in the side, and is nicked and dented. Embossed Maker Marks - ‘W P’, within raised diamond outline, within sunken crown - ‘Cross above Triangle’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘Maltese Cross’ symbol within sunken, six-sided shape - ‘crab-like’ symbol within sunken oval - ‘R D’ within sunken diamondflagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, john chance, loch ard, cutlery, flatware, silverware, tableware, eating utensils, dining, spoon, electroplated cutlery, william page & co, william page & co. ltd., birmingham plate, silversmith, antique, vintage, fiddle design, fiddle pattern, teaspoon