Glass bowl oval shaped with patterned bottom.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

A round sugar bowl from Bendigo's pottery.Bendigo Pottery Australia logobusiness, retail, material, bendigo pottery's website

Red metal toy bowl with two handlestoys, general

Metal bowl, covered in enamel, white in colour.

6th Battalion was forerunner for the 5th/6th BattalionPresented to the city of melbourne regiment by its honorary Colonel and The chief of the General staffSilver bowl shaped trophy with ornate handles THE BRUCHE CUP FOR INTER PLATOON COMPETITION 6TH BATTALION (CITY OF MELBOURNE REGIMENT) Presented by MAJOR GENERAL J.H. Bruche, C.B, C.M.G Chief of General Staff Honorary Colonel of the Regiment 5/6 rvr, regimental property, trophy, 6th battalion, city of melbourne regiment, inter platoon competion

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery bowl with lid - grape ornamentation. White.pottery, bowls

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery bowl with handles and flowers at base. White.pottery, bowls

Antonio Canova’s statue The Three Graces is a Neoclassical sculpture, in marble, of the mythological three charites, daughters of Zeus – identified on some engravings of the statue as, from left to right, Euphrosyne, Aglaea and Thalia – who were said to represent youth/beauty (Thalia), mirth (Euphrosyne), and elegance (Aglaea). The Graces presided over banquets and gatherings, to delight the guests of the gods. The three slender female figures become one in their embrace, united by their linked hands and by a scarf which links them.Ornamental table statue of "The Three Graces" with bowl.ornaments, sculptures, human figures, figures

The silver jam spoon belonged to Mary A'Vard, probably part of a wedding present when she was married in 1942. May have been given as a gift from the Cascades Guest House where she lived as a child.Bowl has a pointed end and indented shoulders.Rodd or Podd EPNS - electroplated nickel silver.

Manufactured in 1967 to commemorate the WW1 ANZAC Gallipoli Peninsular Campaign in 1915. Issued to recipient P. T. Bernard. For commemoration of service throughout the Gallipoli Campaign in 1915. Issued to P. T. Bernard.Cast in Bronze. 75mm high and 50mm wide. Obverse depicts Simpson and his donkey carrying a wounded soldier to safety. It is bordered on the lower half by a laurel wreath above the word ANZAC. Reverse shows a map of Australia and New Zealand superimposed by the Southern Cross. The lower half is bordered by the New Zealand Fern leaves. The name and initials of the recipient is engraved and the medallion is issued in a presentation box. Engraved for P. T. Bernard. Engraved for recipient P.T. Bernard. ww1 anzac gallipoli campaign 1915, anzac commemorative medal, ww1 1914-1918, gallipoli and anzac, p. t. bernard soldier.

The history of this item is unknown. It has been suggested that SBC could be the initials of a person or could stand for an organisation such as Sandridge Bowling Club which was formed a year or two before the municipality, and the club, changed its name to Port Melbourne. It may stand for Sandridge Borough Council. The glass was donated to PMHPS by David GRAHAM, the last Town Clerk of Port Melbourne. David does not know the origin of the glass other than it was kept by a succession of Town Clerks at Port Melbourne Town Hall, to his knowledge going back to the 1970s. The glass is older than that and it is tempting to think that it could be from Sandridge Borough Council and has been kept by each Town Clerk of the municipality since the 1860s, 1870s or early 1880s. The truth may never be known.Clear drinking glass with a short stem and a flute-style bowl. The initials SBC are engraved on one side of the bowl and a decorative fern is engraved on the other side.domestic life - containers

A mass produced unbranded domestic item used before 1950's.A vintage medium sized cream coloured stoneware mixing bowl with a pouring lip for cooking. It has three wide green stripes around the body of the bowl. 'Hoffman//9//Australia' printed on the base.ceramic bowl, kitchenware, cooking, mixing bowl

F/O POLKINHORN .T. M96. 3867. 12/7/45. Information has no correlation in Service Records.1. Dress coat - navy blue colour, cotton twill, navy blue cotton sateen lining with beige cotton fabric lining to sleeves. Full belt with bakelite and metal buckle. Buttons - black colour bakelite with metal shank. Emblazoned with the King's crown and a wedge tailed eagle in flight WW2. Set of RAAF wings above left top pocket. Rank Insignia on sleeve. 2. Trousers - navy blue colour cotton twill and button fly. 3. Tie - black colour rayon fabric.3. Makers label - black ink print on label - "David Jones/ FOR SERVICE/ SYDNEY" Black ink typewritten - "F/O POLKINHORN. T. /M96, 3867, 12/7/45" Blue ink handwritten - "Ball"uniforms, raaf, ww2

All articles were written by Mr S T Grey for Whittlesea Shire as part of the Shire History as authorised by council. Articles were published as columns in the Whittlesea Post in 1961. Copies of articles which appeared in the Whittlesea Post 1961. All articles were written by Mr S T Grey for Whittlesea Shire as part of the Shire History as authorised by councilwhittlesea council, s.t. grey, whittlesea shire history

This lamp has no known history. Lamps such as this one were for indoor use and were essential items in households in the 19th century and the first three decades of the 20th century until electric lighting became common in most households. This item has no known local provenance and will be useful for display as an example of a common household item of the past.This is a lamp with a glass base which is fluted and mostly coloured green. The bowl is clear glass with a concave raised pattern on the base of the bowl. The bowl contains a discoloured white wick. The lighting mechanism is brass with an external knob for controlling the use of the wick. The lamp mantle is bulbous-shaped. social history, history of warrnambool, kerosene lamp

This butter mold is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesA wooden bowl which uses the lid as an imprint plunger. The imprint is a floral design and has a long handle. The bowl has a hole in the base for easy removal of butter.butter-mould domestic food-preparation

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Neutral Colour T Shirtuniform, 2010, army

Shirt T olive greenuniform, afghan, army

t - shirt white with logouniform, ran

Black and white photograph of the Sidney Myer Music Bowl. Crowd scene at Carols by Candlelight. Bowl is to right of shot. Light in centre, shining towards camera.1 black and white photograph of Carols by Candlelight stageroyal victorian institute for the blind, carols by candlelight

This cricket ball is made of cane wicker and was used in cricket games with visually impaired players by people who lived or were educated at the Royal Victorian Institute for the Blind from the 1920's through till 1972. It is a circular shape made of plaited strips of woven natural cane and is lighter than a conventional cricket ball. The hollow center of the ball contains pieces of twisted metal pieces which rattle as the ball is moved to aid players in tracking the ball's movement. The stumps also had bells attached so fielders knew when the batsman was out. Blind cricket was invented in Melbourne in 1922 when two blind factory workers started playing a game using a tin can containing rocks. The game soon gained popularity and the Victorian Blind Cricketers' Association was formed. Mr William Paterson, a volunteer worker and advocate for blind people for over 60 years, was instrumental in acquiring and developing the sports ground and clubhouse in Glenferrie Road Kooyong, Victoria on behalf of the Association for the Advancement of the Blind (now called Vision Australia). In 1928 play began on the world's first sports ground for blind cricketers, in the first official blind cricket match. Blind cricket is now played internationally. This particular cricket ball was awarded to William Paterson Esq in 1928 in recognition of his support in establishing the world's first blind cricket ground in Kooyong. On the front of this ball is attached a small metal crest with an inscription: 'Presented to W.H. Paterson, Esq as a token of esteem for his interest in Blind cricket being the first ball bowled on the cricket ground for Blind Kooyong 7. 4.28'.1 wicker cricket ball with metal shield attached and metal bells in the hollow centre'Presented to W.H. Paterson, Esq / as a token of esteem for his/ interest in Blind cricket/ being the first ball bowled /on the cricket /ground for Blind /Kooyong / 7. 4.28'. recreation equipment, awards

These glasses were distributed to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the proclamation of the Shire of Diamond Valley. The Shire of Diamond Valley was a Local Government Area located about 20 kilometres northeast of Melbourne. The shire covered an area of 74.38 square kilometres and existed from 1964 until 1994. A limited edition glass presented to community volunteers and others associated with the Shire of Diamond Valley.Pair of clear glass, stemmed wine glasses. Stem has spiral pattern.Etched into bowl "Shire of Diamond Valley 1964-1994" and shire coat of arms.shire of diamond valley, greensborough, commemorative glasses