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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Another example of a machine made lace, this delicate white lace trim with a beautiful undulating pattern on a diamond net background and richly scalloped edge. At 2.4cm in width it is quite a narrow and dainty lace and would have been suitable for a baby’s or a child’s garment or for enhancing nightwear, lingerie or bed linen.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length white lace trim with selvaged and scalloped edge with picots at outer edge. Undulating pattern on net ground. Machine made.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This is a very dense machine made lace reminiscent of a Valenciennes style. The folk art style roses and interconnecting six petal flowers are set into quite a dense net ground. The trim appears to have been made on a Pusher machine - although it was only able to make the lace pattern and the net. Any outline had to be filled in later by hand using an embroidering machine. Nottingham stopped making Pusher lace probably in the early 20th century but it continued to be made in France. The Pusher machine was a variation on John Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine developed by Samuel Clark and James Mart in 1812. It takes its name from the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. The Jacquard apparatus was adapted to it in 1839. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. section of lace trim, with very dense valenciennes pattern, small lowers and leaves interwoven with larger motifschurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...A broad and luxurious lace this length would be a beautiful trim on a lady’s gown. It appears to be a copy of a Carrickmacross Irish lace where - when handmade - the motifs are embroidered onto a muslin and net sandwich and the excess muslin is cut away. This 142.5cm length however is machine made and was very likely made on a Leavers machine which was another adaptation from John Heathcoat’s machine with the Jacquard patterning device being adapted to it in the 1830s. It was developed by John Levers in Nottingham but the ‘a’ was added to the name for ease of pronunciation in France. The Leavers machine is one of the most versatile of all machines for making patterned lace and Leavers lace was Nottingham’s chief lace product until recently.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length of lace trim with scalloped edge and straight selvage edge, floral design on net ground. Machine madechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...At 9cm in width this delicately patterned length of light lace trim seems ideally suited to trimming a baby’s christening gown or a cradle. This embroidered style of lace was rarely used on fashionable garments but more widely used on bed linen and undergarments and judging by the creases in the lace, it is possibly made of silk which would have made it very expensive. There were two types of embroidery machines, the earliest was the Hand Embroidery machine invented by Joshua Heilman in France in 1828. It makes a perfect copy of hand embroidery except that all of the pattern repeats are exactly the same. The second type and the most likely to have been used for this piece is the Schiffli Embroidery machine Invented by Isaac Groebli in 1865 in St. Gallen, Switzerland. The first machines were relatively small and could be operated by a couple of people, mostly women but by the beginning of the 21st century they could be up to 18 metres in length and work with over a thousand needles. Most machine embroidered laces are made using the Schiffli machine and Nottingham in England, Plauen in Germany and St. Gallen in Switzerland still produce a great deal of embroidered lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length of wide lace trim with dots on net ground and selvage edge, other edge complex scallop. Machine madechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece x 2
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...These pieces replicate bobbin lace as can be seen by the fine knots in the diamond shaped net ground and the gimp or outline has been given the appearance of being tamboured in a fine chain stitch. These cotton lace pieces have been cut from a larger piece which by shape and size appear to have been intended for a collar. They are machine made and very likely were woven on a Leavers machine with the chain stitch outline being added by a Bonnaz/Cornely machine. The Leavers machine, once coupled with the French Jacquard machine in the late 1830s, made excellent copies of any handmade lace which could be reproduced much more cheaply and much faster than the time consuming handmade laces. The Jacquard machine was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard and was first demonstrated in 1801. It worked by threading a series of interlaced punched cards through the machine with each row of holes in the cards corresponding to a row in a textile design. The Jacquard loom influenced the future development of computer technology and its attachment to the Leavers net making machine opened the ability to recreate countless varieties of formerly handmade lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Two triangles of lace cut from a larger piece, machine made, floral and leaf decorationchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This is an example of machine made Torchon lace which is the simplest form of bobbin lace and is also known as Beggars lace; the Dutch call it Stropkant. The thread used is thicker than embroidered laces and was originally worked with linen thread but is now made of cotton. Due to it being relatively less expensive than other laces and its softness, Torchon lace was used mainly by the middle classes as an insert on nightcaps and nightgowns and as a trim on bed linen as well as undergarments. Torchon is usually the first type of lace that a lace maker learns, but since at least the earliest 20th century commercial quantities have been made by machine and were virtually indistinguishable from those that were handmade. This example would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine. Its bobbins imitate the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it makes perfect copies of Torchon and the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machine.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929length of lace, machine made, geometric design with two selvaged edges, repeat motif of ovals surrounded by crosses.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, torchon -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This is a machine made lace made in the fashion of Mechlin lace - one of the best known Flemish laces. Original Mechlin lace is a bobbin lace, where the ground and the pattern are made with the same threads and the outline is picked out in fine silk. Close inspection of this lace section indicates that the net ground is hexagonal with two sides plaited and the other four are twisted. The Leavers machine was capable of producing this elegant section of lace trim. From 1841, this machine was developed to make the ground, the pattern and the outline at the same time. The working thread bobbins would be wound with a fine cotton or silk and the outline bobbins would be wound with a heavier linen thread or a heavier silk. It would be used as a delicate trim on light summer clothes, perhaps a blouse, a summery dress, to trim a parasol or perhaps to trim an elegant evening gown on which the colour of the gown would show through the fine lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Michelin lace - hexagonal net ground with two sides plaited and the other four are twisted. churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This fine lace trim at 1.6cm width is quite narrow, the pattern is geometric in style with one side a selvedge and the other a gracefully scalloped picot edging. It appears to be made of cotton although it could be silk, and ostensibly looks to be a Cluny lace style of bobbin lace which is heavily plaited and worked in one continuous piece. Cluny lace is geometric in pattern often with thin radiating wheat ears. This machine made lace would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in Germany in the 1890s and was capable of making perfect copies of Torchon and other simple bobbin laces such as Cluny. The machine developed from a braiding machine and uses bobbins which imitate the hand movement of hand-made lace makers. This fine lace trim may adorn a child’s collar and cuffs or trim a finely pleated blouse. It may also trim a mob cap or a shawl.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.machine made lace trim with selvage edge on one side and scalloped edge with picots, geometric interior churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This sample of lace trim is Torchon lace in the Cluny style with the geometric pattern and the classic wheat ears/leaves appearing between the filled ‘v’ shapes. At 5cm in width, it would be a beautiful trim or insert piece on bed linen and undergarments. It would certainly have been made on a Barmen machine. The Barmen lace machine was developed in Germany on the 1890s. Its bobbins imitated the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it made perfect copies of Torchon and other similar bobbin laces. This style of bobbin lace was the simplest to make and therefore the cheapest lace to buy. In the Elizabethan era, the wearing of lace was reserved for the nobility and anyone of lesser standing than a knight who dared to wear lace would be publicly whipped. As the years passed, the restrictions lessened gradually and in the late Georgian and Victorian eras, ladies of the nobility sought to perform good deeds by teaching women and girls of the poorer classes to make lace and thus it became known as beggars lace. Bobbins were expensive and use was made of animal bones and even fish bones to perform as bobbins therefore another common name was bone lace. Many noble women entered a religious order and these nuns would also teach to skill to willing participants as well as making lace for clerical garments. Although the monarchy restricted the wearing of lace for some time, many royal figures in history did a great deal to popularise it. Two noteworthy examples were Queen Adelaide (1792-1849) and Queen Victoria (1819-1901).The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.machine made Torchon and Cluny lace trim with both edges similar, v shape design and 8 braid geometric design in centrechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim, torchon, cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This is another machine lace made using a thicker crochet-like thread, quite possibly cotton judging by the texture. The geometric pattern has been made in the style of Torchon lace and it gives the appearance of softness and comfort. This lace is quite narrow (1.1cm) and was not made as an insertion lace but as a trim. It was most likely used as a trim on children’s underclothing and bed linen. It may have been used as a trim on a mob cap for a maid or a less senior member of the household. This machine made lace would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in Germany in the 1890s and was capable of making perfect copies of Torchon and other simple bobbin laces.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Torchon machine lace, coarse crochet like thread. One fairly straight edge with picots. Other edge has clusters of elongated picots at even intervals. Geometric pattern insidechurchill island, lace, janet amess, lace collection, torchon -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - Bag filler and rammer, After 1907
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Galvanised iron with funnel hopper, half covered, rammer underneath, cylindrical pipe.Barklem /bag filler/&/ rammer/ patent registered no 7012galvanised, iron, bag, filler, rammer, tools, tool, farm, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - Canvas bucket, rope handle
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Wooden base, leather reinforced, stitched canvas, inserted rope top, brass eyelets, rope handles, sliced one side, metal with spring clips the other side. Leather washer with copper rivets, Separate pocket inside.canvas, bucket, container, farm, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - Hand Auger, late 19th century
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Alexander Mathieson & Sons Ltd ('& Sons', after c. 1890), of the Saracen Tool Works, Glasgow, advertised as 'manufacturers of planes, mechanical, engineering and edge-tools'. They received 'prize medals' at the London, Melbourne and Edinburgh International Exhibitions of 1851, 1862, 1880 and 1886, in their 'quest for perfection in tools'. Mathieson's vast output included specialised craft implements for coopers, ship's carpenters, tinsmiths and wheelwrights. The firm originated when master plane-maker John Manners opened premises in Saracen Lane, Glasgow, in 1792. 4 Alexander Mathieson (c. 1797–1852) took over his business in 1821, which he gave as the foundation date of his firm. He was later succeeded by his son, Thomas A. Mathieson (1822–1899), a prominent Glasgow magistrate and preceptor of Hutcheson's Hospital charitable institution. In 1854, Mathiesons moved to East Campbell Street, and had opened branches in Edinburgh, Dundee and Liverpool by 1876. The third generation comprised Thomas O. and James H. Mathieson (born 1867), the latter being a Glasgow bailie (councillor), whose estate totalled an enormous £150,939 in 1926. Mathieson's hand- and small machine-tools (e.g. bandsaws and beading machines) were exported worldwide, especially their 'heavy duty auger bits used... for boring railway sleepers'. An auger is a drilling device, or drill bit, used for making holes in wood or in the groundMathieson Glasgow (crescent moon trade mark) 2 1/4 " borehand auger, auger, churchill island, farm, woodworking, woodwork, tools -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - Pick, Miner's
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Short top end of head. Commercially made/ Well worn. Handle repaired1) automotive wire 2) electrical tape repair. Painted red, end split. miner, mining, pick, churchill island, tools, farm -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - large hatchet
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Medium length wooden axe handle modern head cast iron. Blacksmith made cast and forged. One flat side, hammer end.hatchet, tools, hammer, blacksmith, blacksmithing, smithing, churchill island, farm -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - Bill hook, pre World War 1
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...A billhook or bill hook is a versatile cutting tool used widely in agriculture and forestry for cutting woody material such as shrubs, small trees and branches. A billhook consists of a handle and a blade with a bevelled cutting edge. The blade is curved at the top end to form a hook shape. The handle is virtually always wooden.Rough pine handle with many borer holes. Commercially made (no ID) cast in socket one end, strap iron riveted other end. Cast blade.tools, hook, bill hook, churchill island, farm, iron -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Tool - Brace and auger bit for fencing
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Brace and eyed auger bits were used for boring deep holes into timber, providing space for mechanical fasteners, such as bolts or spikes. Made of iron, the pictured tool comprises a Jennings type, double twist auger bit with a threaded point to draw the bit into the wood. The other end of the shank is shaped as an eye and fitted to a hand brace. Sometimes simple cross-bars were used instead of a brace. The eye design provides greater strength than a standard auger bit. This tool’s cradle further secures the bit, preventing unwanted twisting during use. Since the late 1800’s, brace and eyed auger bits such as this were used for boring holes in fence posts, bridge building and other heavy construction.Bit bolted on and held with hook. Brace probably blacksmith made. Bit commercially made. May have been used vertically. Surface pitted.auger, fencing, brace, blacksmith, tool, tools, farm, farming, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - Wire strainer
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Cast iron double-springed fence wire strainer, registered and patented in 1916wire, strainer, tool, tools, farm, farming, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Tool - Extended Mathieson Auger, Mathieson
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Alexander Mathieson & Sons Ltd ('& Sons', after c. 1890), of the Saracen Tool Works, Glasgow, advertised as 'manufacturers of planes, mechanical, engineering and edge-tools'. They received 'prize medals' at the London, Melbourne and Edinburgh International Exhibitions of 1851, 1862, 1880 and 1886, in their 'quest for perfection in tools'. Mathieson's vast output included specialised craft implements for coopers, ship's carpenters, tinsmiths and wheelwrights. The firm originated when master plane-maker John Manners opened premises in Saracen Lane, Glasgow, in 1792. 4 Alexander Mathieson (c. 1797–1852) took over his business in 1821, which he gave as the foundation date of his firm. He was later succeeded by his son, Thomas A. Mathieson (1822–1899), a prominent Glasgow magistrate and preceptor of Hutcheson's Hospital charitable institution. In 1854, Mathiesons moved to East Campbell Street, and had opened branches in Edinburgh, Dundee and Liverpool by 1876. The third generation comprised Thomas O. and James H. Mathieson (born 1867), the latter being a Glasgow bailie (councillor), whose estate totalled an enormous £150,939 in 1926. Mathieson's hand- and small machine-tools (e.g. bandsaws and beading machines) were exported worldwide, especially their 'heavy duty auger bits used... for boring railway sleepers'. Damaged wooden handle (not original) bit welded on to metal rod, handle welded on to rod,. Surface rustMathieson + (illegible)mathieson, auger, tool, tools, farming, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Tool - Adze, late 20th century
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...The adze is an agricultural tool, similar to an axe, but the blade is affixed perpendicular to the handle. Used primarily for smoothing or carving wood, the adze can also be used as a hoe. The wooden handles vary in length depending on their particular purpose and can be designed for one handed or two-handed use. This adze was made by Australian farming company, Hytest.Adze. Long, slightly curved wooden handle, with a steel arched blade perpendicular to the handle. Hytesthytest, adze, axe, tool, tools, farming, farm, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Functional object - Iron bound wooden mallet
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Round wooden handle. Large head with metal band at each end. Some paint stains.iron bound, wooden, mallet, tool, tools, hammer, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This beautiful piece has been hand embroidered with coloured thread onto a machine made net. The net would most likely have been made on a stocking frame or Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and the intricate handwork appears to be a mixture of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply outlined in thread and then filled in by darning and other stitches. Tamboured lace is made with a very fine metal or bone crochet hook making chain stitch with the net stretched out over a frame. Limerick lace from Ireland is just such a lace where the stitches used on the machine made net vary considerably. According to Pat Earnshaw, a British lace historian, there was one Limerick lace collar that used 47 different filling stitches. The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 when he brought 20 girls from England to set up a lace making school. Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. This delicate example is from the 1920s and was cut from a larger piece which was most likely attached to an item of sleek underwear. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Machine made net with coloured hand embroidery. Cut from larger piecelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, embroidery, tamboured lace, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This is a length of Leavers machine made lace trim (7.6 x 42cm). The body of the lace having no outline on the floral part is Valenciennes in style but with the hexagonal net and outline on the square pattern is Mechlin in nature. It is a fine example of a machine made lace which was very popular and sought after in the late 19th century as a preferred summer lace at the royal courts of Europe.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Length of lace trim, with repeating floral and geometric designs. Shorter section, appears to have been cut from a longer length.lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece Border on Net
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This machine made net (76cm x 38) is trimmed on the edge with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so proficient in copying handmade lace that it is very difficult to tell if the trim is done by hand or by machine. Tambour lace was the earliest form of Limerick lace and was worked in chain stitch onto machine made net using a very fine crochet hook, so fine in fact that some practitioners used a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the pointed end inserted into a wooden handle.The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. If this pattern is machine made it would have been made using a Bonnaz machine which was later called a Cornely machine. Antoine Bonnaz (1836 – 1915), a silk machine engineer, produced the first successful industrial chain stitch machine. His patent was finally acquired by Ercole Cornely in Paris who developed a hook shaped needle that could make a line of chain stitches. Initially these machines were only available in northern France but they were so popular that they were eventually exported to the rest of the world and are still being produced today. This lace edging is quite fine and would only be about a centimetre in width and so would be subtle in effect, perhaps to be used on undergarments or as a fichu for day wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made net, trimmed with tamboured design in style of Limerick lace.Note in package "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This is a machine made copy of a Brussels lace applique or Brussels Point border which has most likely been cut from a larger piece, perhaps a wedding veil or a net for a baby’s cradle. There are two main types under the Brussels lace heading, one is Brussels Pillow lace which is a bobbin lace and the other is Brussels Point lace which is needle run. Belgium or Flanders was one of the premium lace making centres in Europe for two reasons, one that the flax grown in the region was of a very high quality and secondly the highly skilled lace workers living in the area. The flax harvest and linen production was jealously guarded and along with neighbouring Holland which in the 16th century was joined to Belgium as Spanish Netherlands, there were many flat areas to lay out the linen for bleaching in the sun. The flax was spun into the finest linen thread in rooms kept damp to prevent the thread from becoming too brittle and the one ray of sunlight allowed was directed onto the thread. The quality of the linen made Brussels lace extremely popular for centuries and it kept pace with the changing fashions of Europe. Not all of the lace labelled as ‘Brussels’ comes from that area, the name has been given as a type rather than a source and there are many types of lace under that name. Because of the quality and the standard of the linen used, Belgian lace was one of the last types of lace to be imitated in the 19th century by mass production machinery. Because of the close chain stitch evident in this piece, a Cornelly machine may have been used to embroider this design onto machine made net.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim, with finely worked sprays of flowers intertwined with foliage and abstracted branches.Package with note "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Trim, Black Beaded
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...At 11cm in width, this lavishly embroidered lace would have been used as a trim or an insertion piece for evening wear, perhaps as a trim on the bodice of an off the shoulder evening gown. It comprises two layers: a strong base possibly machine made and a fine top layer luxuriously embossed with sequins and bugle beads which was possibly done by hand. It appears to have been made using matte black silk which was known as grenadine and used on the Pusher machine which could only make the pattern and the net. The outline had to be put in by hand. Nottingham stopped making Pusher lace in the early 20th century but it continued to be made in France.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. length of black beaded trim with two layers: machine made lace with hand-stitched overlay of sequins and jet cylindrical beads in abstract designs.Packaged with note: "Black beaded trimming (hand beaded)".janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, sequined, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This sample of lace trim is Torchon lace in the Cluny style with the geometric pattern and the classic wheat ears/leaves appearing between the filled ‘v’ shapes. At 5cm in width it would be a beautiful trim or insert piece on bed linen and undergarments. It would certainly have been made on a Barmen machine. The Barmen lace machine was developed in Germany on the 1890s. Its bobbins imitated the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it made perfect copies of Torchon and other similar bobbin laces. This style of bobbin lace was the simplest to make and therefore the cheapest lace to buy. In the Elizabethan era the wearing of lace was reserved for the nobility and anyone of lesser standing than a knight who dared to wear lace would be publicly whipped. As the years passed the restrictions lessened gradually and in the late Georgian and Victorian eras ladies of the nobility sought to perform good deeds by teaching women and girls of the poorer classes to make lace and thus it became known as beggars lace. Bobbins were expensive and use was made of animal bones and even fish bones to perform as bobbins therefore another common name was bone lace. Many noble women entered a religious order and these nuns would also teach to skill to willing participants as well as making lace for clerical garments. Although the monarchy restricted the wearing of lace for some time, many royal figures in history did a great deal to popularize it. Two noteworthy examples were Queen Adelaide (1792-1849) and Queen Victoria.(1819-1901).The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made Torchon lace in Cluny style, with geometric patterns and wheat design, probably on a Barman (Swiss) machine. janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, trim, amess, barman, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Black Lace Front
... churchill island...Churchill Island Heritage Farm 246 Samuel Amess Drive ...This lace front is another example of Pusher lace using matte black silk called grenadine. The head opening has yet to be cut out and the panel itself was most likely made for a specific garment possibly in a contrasting paler colour to show off the leafy pattern The Pusher machine is a variation of Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and was so called for the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. There appears to be an outline on the leaves which would have had to be worked either by hand or by embroidery machine.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Rectangular section of lace with intricate leaf design and a matte circular section. Designs are reinforced with multiple layers of stitching.Packaged with note: "Black lace "Front" with neckline hole"churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine