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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
A five petal machine made lace collar, this item would be attached to the neckline of a garment and appears to be designed to lay flat although a little starch applied could make it stand up like petals around the neck. The Folk Art style rose between two rosebuds design is simple and outlined in fine black thread as are the scalloped edges of each collar petal The design being embroidered on to net leads one to believe that this was made on a Cornely machine. The Cornely machine had a great impact on the embroidery industry. It developed from hand tambouring and contemporary inventions in the field of sewing machines and was the first single-needle embroidery machine. It was easy to use, could be used in the home or a small workroom and as the mechanism developed it became difficult to distinguish machine from hand sewn. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Cream lace collar with black edging. Rosette pattern and some scalloping around selvage edge. Machine made lacelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, garment, clothing, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 8
At just 20.6cm in lace length and 27.5cm wide, this section of Torchon machine made lace is quite possibly a sampler for future purchases being a mixture of edging and insertion pieces. Torchon lace is a bobbin lace which is coarse and strong and was made all over Europe a characteristic of which was that the design and the ground were made in one continuous piece as opposed to motifs joined by brides. In 1809 John Heathcoat created a machine made net which didn’t unravel when cut and by 1870 every type of hand made lace had a machine made copy. Hand made lace as an industry virtually disappeared by 1900 and these machine made pieces were comparatively cheap.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Cheap Torchon machine lace Packaged with note: "Scraps of lace found jumbled with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This is a beautiful example of Irish crochet lace edging featuring the Clones knot which gives the picot appearance on the bars. Clones knots are made by twisting the crochet hook backwards and forwards many times and working into the same stitch then pulling a loop through and fastening it at the beginning of the knot. Irish crochet comes in many forms and at first glance this lace looks like a bobbin made torchon lace. It is very fine and the thread used is most likely a No. 60 cotton or finer. Being handmade this lace would have been quite expensive and the owner would have wanted it to be seen.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of handmade lace, with reinforced edges and a repeating, abstract motif reminiscent of buds.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 5
At just 21cm in length and 27.5cm wide these machine lace pieces are most likely a sampler. Four of the pieces are insertion pieces, and the last is an edging piece. These samplers made ordering much more satisfactory than ordering from a catalogue. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery Noten packaged with panel "scraps of lace found jumbled in with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, embroidery, panel, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Ruffle with neckpiece
The neckpiece is 35.3cm long and 3cm wide and the ruffle is 35.3cm long and 16cm wide edged with delicate machine embroidery. In the mid to late 19th century, daydresses were made with a closed neckline, while evening dresses were usually off the shoulder. This ruffle was made to be attached to the bodice of a daydress to embellish the neckline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery embroidery, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace, neckpiece, garment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is a machine made length of lace which has been executed in the Cluny style. Cluny lace is a bobbin style lace which is worked in a continuous piece and is heavily plaited in geometric designs. It is believed to have originated from copies of designs in the Musee de Cluny in Paris. There is a company in Ilkeston in the United Kingdom called The Cluny Lace Company which is still making both Cluny and Valenciennes lace using Leavers machines. The Mason family started making lace in the 1760s at the start of the Industrial Revolution. For two centuries the five generations of the family have paid close attention to detail and have brought the company to the forefront of new technology. Many of the lace patterns still used today were designed and draughted by Frank Maltby Mason and Francis Bowler Mason, the sixth and seventh generations of the family. They have developed a data bank of designs over this time and by combining the best of old traditions with new technology the firm is able to produce a wide range of exquisite designs of Leavers Cluny style lace allovers, edgings and insertions. This lovely insertion would be well suited to decorate a mob cap or on bed linen and nightwear.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of machine made Cluny-style lace trim with repeating diamond pattern on the border, and a central geometric/floral motifchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, machine, amess, cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This piece is a filet lace with a hand darned pattern on machine net and embroidered for ribbon to be threaded through the reverse to highlight the design. It is also known as beading lace which is most commonly used in lingerie. Filet lace is a form of decorative knotted netting and as such can be presumed to have derived from fishnet and is similarly made using a shuttle-needle and a gauge stick or rod although this one has been made on a machine. In 1812, the first net-making machine was invented and was in commercial use by 1820. There are pre-made nets available on the market today but there are different types of net, some made especially for filet. The hand darning would have been made by anchoring the netting and using a long blunt needle and thread. Wider pieces of filet with hand embroidery were commonly used to trim clerical vestments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Filet hand darned pattern on machine net in repeating noughts and crosses geometric motifs.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
Although well-worn and somewhat damaged, this elegant lace collar is handmade and is a combination of some different styles. Bedfordshire lace, or simply Beds lace, and also known as Bedfordshire Maltese lace, was based on local lace forms traditionally produced in the English Midlands and on the Maltese lace that was developed in the early nineteenth century and on show at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. Maltese lace, and Bedfordshire lace, are forms of guipure, bobbin lace. The Maltese lace in particular gave the Bedfordshire lace its rounded leaf patterns and in this case its delicate brides and edging. The motifs appear to have been added and are most likely to be examples of Cluny lace which is of French origin and is a heavy plaited bobbin lace which is geometric in design often with radiating wheat ears. The motifs in this lace collar bear a very strong resemblance to Carrickmacross lace which is Irish in origin and is crafted by placing first the pattern, then fine muslin through which the pattern can be seen and then stitching around the pattern and finally cutting the excess muslin away. The pattern is decorated further with needle run stitches.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Maltese bobbin (NGV) Bedfordshire Cluny style hand made plaited lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, collar, garment, clothing, maltese, bobbin, handmade, plaited, bedfordshire cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Camisole, c 1870
This delicate camisole was donated with a note enclosed stating the following : “hand embroidered cotton camisole c 1870”. However it is believed to be silk net with silk machine made lace insertions and silk hand embroidery (Lace Group Embroiderers Guild 1/3/12).The camisole came in to being in the Victorian era. The wearing of corsets to ‘improve’ body shape was mandatory and the chemise being long was considered too bulky to cover the corset. The camisole was developed being short and light and was worn over the corset and under the bodice of the outer garment. This beautiful camisole would most likely have been used under evening wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess womenMachine lace insertions; silk embroidery (NGV) silk net, machine embroidery (Lace Group Embroiderers Guild 1/3/12) See photos (5)Packaged with note; "hand embroidered cotton camisole c 1870"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, camisole, machine, silk, cotton, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Camisole
This may have been the camisole worn by the same bride as in 0087. It would be worn over her corset and under the bodice of her gown. This fabric must have been bought with a camisole in mind and the machine embroidery in place. It would have been embroidered on a Schiffli machine. It is interesting that the seams are hand stitched which may indicate that it was an item from a trousseau. There are ribbon insertion points along the top and bottom of the garment and although there are satin shoulder straps they could easily be tucked away or removed so that this could be worn under an off the shoulder gown. Packaged with note: "White cotton camisole hand stitched seams. Probably purchased fabric pre 1900".The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women,.Machine embroidery with small floral motifs Packaged with note: "White cotton camisole hand stitched seams. Probably purchased fabric pre 1900".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, jane, corset, cover, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
A hand crocheted lace, this fine example could also be called a single galloon lace due to the scalloped edge. In lace making the word ‘galloon’ refers to a braid or lace with one or two scalloped edges. These trims were sometimes made of metallic thread and used to trim military uniforms and the word comes from the French “galonner” meaning ‘to trim with braid’. Owing to the structure of the outer edge it could also be referred to as beaded lace as there is space for fine ribbon to be threaded through the stitches. This length of hand crocheted lace would have been a delicate adornment for trimming a fichu or for lingerie and children’s clothing. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet ivory lace trim with a scalloped selvedge and even diagonal patternlace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, handmade, crotchet -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This length of machine made lace could only be made on either the Raschel or the Leavers machine, however the Raschel only produced an hexagonal ground, therefore we must lean towards the Leavers machine. The pattern in the piece is a copy of a bobbin lace with a plaited octagonal ground. The Leavers machine could reproduce all sorts of grounds, it was very versatile and operated from the mid 19th century until the present day. This lace is quite fine and would look lovely as a trim on a fichu or mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of machine lace with repeating 'spoked wheel' designs, trimmed on one side with a scalloped edgechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This narrow (3.3cm) piece may have been used to embellish the bodice or the waistline of a garment. Chemical lace is a late 19th century form of machine lace made by embroidering the lace pattern onto a sacrificial fabric which has been chemically treated to dissolve when immersed in a solution which will not harm the lace. However, the composition of the solution was not environmentally friendly so this method of lace making has all but disappeared in many countries. Chemical lace can be distinguished from needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threadsThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Narrow length of chemical lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above. The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis.Honiton Linen mimic. Hand made individual bobbin lace motifs hand sewn together with bobbin made bridesjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, 1800s, bobbin lace, decorative motifs, warp, weft -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bonnet, Baby
This baby bonnet is made of strips or braids of machine made torchon lace crocheted together by hand and the bonnet is lined with silk fabric. There are crocheted rosettes in place which are placed to attach the ribbons. The thread used is possibly rayon which was used from 1915, but is very difficult to distinguish from silk. The Barmen machine would have been used to create the lace strips. It was developed from a braiding machine in the 1890s in Barmen which is now part of Wuppertal in Germany. This machine makes a near perfect copy of torchon lace which it creates in cylindrical form and by strategic removal of threads is flattened into the braid strip.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Strips of machine made torchon lace in a bonnet, lined with silk, and crocheted rosettes for attachments to two lengths of silk for ties.Packaged with note; "Hand crocheted silk lined baby's bonnet" crochet, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, baby, bonnet, amess, clothing