This smokehouse, erected in 1975, was built using stone from the Mullen Mullum Creek by stone mason Ray Williams, based on a photograph of a smokehouse in America. When a photograph of the original Schwerkolt smokehouse was found, it was seen to have a striking resemblance to the one erected in 1975Coloured photograph taken in 1970's of the Smoke House; constructed in 1975schwerkolt cottage and museum complex, smokehouses

4 x sympathy cards with various art work (1940's)

Short newspaper article with a black and white photo of Donald S. LadeFebruary 26, 1990 In Memory of Donald Lade

Air regulator demand valve as used in scuba diving in 1960's ?

Bennet family home 51 Smith Street with two cars parked in front. First church of England is just visible in background. Lady on left is Jessica Bennett. Young lad leaning on mudguard Graeme Bennett born 1933 later mayor of Stawell. The lady at center is Margaret Bennett. and gentleman with hat is John Bennett Senior, original owner of North Western Woolem Mills. Photo taken outside john Bennetts home in smith street with no kerb or nature strip, looking towards Seaby Street. Note the canvas Water bags on front of one car to keep water cool. John Bennet Sen born in 1895 in Yorkshire. his wife Jessie Brown married in Warrnambool.Two 1940's cars parked with a group of people posing for photo.stawell industry

Bitumised Paper Water Pipe used in Patrick Street 1860'sstawell

3: Phenyl Thio-carbnalide S= C(NHC6H5)2OM 1900

Photo shows two of the trams built for the Melbourne Brunswick & Coburg Tramways Trust in 1916 in the Coburg depot yard. The trams were renumbered following a takeover by the MMTB in 1920. Yields information about S class trams.Black and White Photograph - S class 160 and 169 at Coburg DepotOn rear in ink - "MMTB S160 & 169 – Coburg Depot – Ray Pearsontramways, trams, s class, tram 160, tram 169, coburg depot

Black and white photo of Charing Cross with the Alexandra fountain centre foreground. To the left is the City Club hotel. Behind the fountain is the City Family hotel, and a truck to the right. A small number of people standing beside the fountain. Late 1930's to 1940's. On back of photo in pencil Alexandra Fountain Bendigo, Hotel,Fish & chip shop corner ( cosy corner) Johnny's Diner near Bank opposite corner, late 1930's - 1940's' Lyric theatre 1912.bendigo, streetscape, charing cross

Five Australian Christmas Carols was written by John Wheeler and music by William G James. William James came from Ballarat and John Wheeler was from Colac. James was a concert pianist who graduated from the Melbourne Conservatorium. He went to London and played the Proms and wrote a series of Australian themed songs for Dame Nellie Melba. He became the first Federal director of Music for the ABC until 1957. It was at the ABC that he met Wheeler a staff writer who wrote verse and songs. These five carols which have a distinct Australian flavor, were written between 1848 and 1957.While this collection has no direct link to Warrnambool, the works contained in the collection Five Australian Christmas Carols would have social significance as the carols would be familiar to a number of people. They remain some of the few carols with which Australians would identify as being typically Christmas time in Australia with the mention of weather and nature at that time of the year.1Five Australian Christmas Carols with words by John Wheeler and music by William G James contains five Australian carols, The Three drovers, The Silver stars are in the Sky, Christmas Day, Carol of the Birds, Christmas Bush For His Adorning. 12 Pages. S Goldstraw handwritten on front cover.john wheeler, william james, australian christmas carols, warrnambool

This fish dish is an attractive household item which would have been used in the early to mid 20th century when the more affluent families in society were entertaining. It is not a common item and most likely would not be seen in households today. This dish has no known local provenance but is of considerable interest as a household item not seen today. It will be useful for display.This fish dish has an electro-plated nickel silver holder with two curved pieces of metal joined at the centre to form a base. There are four round metal balls at each end of the curved metal to stabilise the stand. Four curved metal pieces are attached to the base and hold a rectangular-shaped piece of metal and a handle. Fitting into this piece of metal is a cut glass container which is heavily patterned on the sides and base. The lid of this container is rectangular with rounded edges and silver-plated. The top of the lid has a silver-coloured free-standing fish model attached to the lid by a metal stud. The fish is a little loose on its stand. The handle can be folded down. ‘E P N S 62’ household items, history of warrnambool

T. Woolman, Volunteer Defence Corp1. Bag - canvas, Brown, single strap, flap, cover, metal studs. 2. Bag backpack - canvas, brown, leather straps, metal buckles.1. ARP AMM Section S.uniform, accessory, bags

Belonged to Fanny Isabella Nicol, Staff Nurse AANS AIF. Refer 1795P for service history, 2317.6.Medals, mounted on a strip of cardboard, set of (2) re F.I Nicol. 1. War Medal 1914-19. 2. Victory Medal."S-Nurse F. Nicol A.I.F"medals, military, nursing

One of 6 photographs donated by Z. CoxBlack & White photograph of the West's Motor Service bus with Mr West standing in front of the bus.On back: Mr West 1940'swest's motor service, bus service cowes phillip island, transport cowes phillip island, phillip island, z cox

An article about the small fruit and fowl farm at Greensborough owned by Mr J. A. Bosch in 1913, with detail on farming methods.Mr J. A. Bush was formerly known as Johannes Adem Bosch, an early Greensborough orchardist. He changed his name during World War 1.4 pages, copy of newspaper article.Edited by S. Ballantyne28/02/2021.plenty river, bosch family, bush family, farming, orchardists

Black and white photographRingwood Bowling Club. c1950's.

William Hutton & Sons were manufacturing silversmiths founded in 1800 in Birmingham with company transferring to Sheffield in 1832. William Hutton had established the firm and with the move to Sheffield, they also became platers having licensed the electroplating technique from the firm of Elkington's. This gave them much early success in the field of electroplating. William's son William Carr Hutton continued the business after his father's death using the same business name until 1864 it was then changed to William Hutton & Son when William Carr's son Herbert Hutton joined him. When William Carr died in 1865, the firm name was again changed to William Hutton & Sons when Herbert's brothers (James & Robert) joined the company. They opened a London showroom in Holborn in 1863 which they moved to Farringdon Road, in 1891 operating until 1918. Hutton's had developed a new nickel alloy that was good for plating and in the late 1800s becoming known as British Plate. They sent their machine-made silver flatware from Sheffield to be hallmarked in London. Hutton's went on to acquire Rupert Favell & Co in 1893 and also registered as a limited company as William Hutton & Sons Ltd in 1902. The Hutton's had also bought Creswick & Co and had started to use their crossed arrows trademark. Hutton's became renowned for the quality of their Arts & Crafts silverware items at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. In 1930 Hutton's were taken over by James Dixon & Sons. A significant item that was made around the time electroplating was being developed as a means of producing quality utilitarian items in quantity for domestic use that we're able to be purchased by working-class people.Cruet set of silver plated frame with upright handle protruding from tray base. Holds 5 containers of varying shape and size; 3 have metal lids. Inscription is on the base. Some containers have contents in them.On base "WMH&S" and "01548" etc.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, cruet set, condiments set, kitchen ware, electroplate, britannia metal, w m hutton

A Fresnel lens is a type of composite compact lens developed by the French physicist Augustin-Jean Fresnel (1788–1827) for use primarily in lighthouses.  Made from high-quality glass Fresnel lenses were used originally in lighthouses and later for many other applications They were later being used for automobile headlamps, brake, parking, and turn signal lenses, and many other applications. Fresnel lenses used in lighthouses were considered state of the art from the late 19th through to the middle of the 20th century. The subject item is a Fresnel replacement lens used in a ships navigation light. For lighthouses, these lenses have now been replaced with much less expensive and more durable aerobeacons, which themselves often contain plastic Fresnel lenses. The lens design allows the construction of lenses of large aperture and short focal length without the mass and volume of material that would be required by a lens of conventional design. A Fresnel lens can be made much thinner than a comparable conventional lens, in some cases taking the form of a flat sheet. The simpler dioptric (purely refractive) form of the lens was first proposed by Count Buffon and independently reinvented by Fresnel. The catadioptric form of the lens, entirely invented by Fresnel, has outer elements that use total internal reflection as well as refraction; it can capture more oblique light from a light source making the light visible from greater distances.The subject item at this time cannot be associated with a historical event, person or place, provenance is unknown, the item is a replacement for a ships navigation light and it is believed to have been produced before 1950.Fresnel glass replacement lens for a navigation side lamp of a ship. W.T.G (S) and 10x7 S.STR.ENGL.125warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, fresnel lens, maritime light, ships navigation light, augustin-jean fresnel, lighthouse lenses, lighthouse, navigation, warning light

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

Photocopy of James Madden in uniform resting his right arm on a ledge and his right leg hooked behind his left leg. James is wearing a red shirt, with gold buttons and braid, dark navy pants with white sash from left to right, belt and gloves. James also has his sheathed sword being held in the crook of his left arm. His right boot indicates that he is wearing spurs.13 page typewritten letter written whilst aboard the SS. Orion on the Mediterranean Sea , 28 march 1938. The letter gives details of the sights and goods able to be purchased in the area. Small letter envelope with the name of Harcourt Granite Quarries J. Blight and Co., Proprietors, if not claimed within ten days to be returned to the Manager, printed in the bottom left corner.S. T. King Williamson Sandhurst.military, world war 2, james madden

2 x copies of Myer Chronology 1901-1981- stapled White , quality ) pages x 7 beginning with Elcon Baevski Myer giving the history and surrounding events of Myer storesHistorian Jean S. Carter 1981document, myer stores / elcon baevski myer

Framed coloured photograph of a Bell 47 Sioux Helicopter and a Cessna 180A Aircraft in a jungle clearing. Mechanics are working on the helicopterArmy Rondell, Bell S/No: 637photograph, bell 47 sioux, cessna 180

Framed coloured Photograph in a black frame of Australian Army Kiowa Helicopter parked at an unknown Airstrip.Australian Rondel, S/N 15236photograph, oh58a, helicopter

l.r; H S POWER 1917painting, horses, farming, field, ploughing, dog, plough, farmer, agriculture, horse, farm

Machined Bronze casting with sight glasses and feed control valvesDetroit Lubricator co.Detroit,u,s,a