The timber display case was presented to Mr Richard Standcombe Harris of Warrnambool (1831-1923). He was a councillor (1875-1891) and predominant businessman. Mr C F Loggin had met Mr Harris while on a trip to Stratford upon Avon in the United Kingdom. Upon his return to Warrnambool, Mr Harris donated the item to the Warrnambool Museum and Art Gallery, (established 1886) where Joseph Archibald was Curator: he catalogued the case in 1894. THE LETTERS IN THE CASE The two letters contained within the display case confirm the authenticity of the oak wood sample. The first letter in the case includes the text; "[Stamped Header on banner] High Street, Stratford on Avon [Hand written] Sept. 22nd / 91. Mr. R. S. Harris, Dear Sir, Enclosed you will find [underlined next 3 words] every authentic proof of the Oak from Shakespeare's House (Birth place). I regret very much Sir, that you made a short-day at S. on A. I should have been delighted to have had the honour, & pleasure, of showing you around our Beautiful Country. You did not give [next 3 words underlined] me or yourself a fair chance. But however I hope that we may again some day have more time to go quietly around. With kind regards, and wishing you, Sir, a pleasant voyage, I remain, Dear Sir, Yours very truly, C.F. Loggin. P.S. A paper will be always acceptable to be as how you Jolly Warrnamboolites are desporting yourselves. “ The second letter includes text; “[Printed Letterhead with stamped impression] The Trustees and Guardians of Shakespeare’s Birthplace Incorporated by Act of 54 and 55, Vict. 1891 Secretary and Librarian - Richard Savage Shakespeare’s Birthplace Stratford-upon-Avon [handwritten] 22 Sept 1891 This piece of oak is a portion of what was cut away at at the restoration of Shakespeare’s Birthplace in 1857-58. C. F. Loggins Chemist 3 High Street Richard Savage Sec. – Shakespeare’s Birthplace Mr C F Loggin was connected with the Shakespeare Trust as the person who had originally donated a scion of Shakespeare's mulberry tree to the "Shakespearean Birthday Committee" in 1842. (The scion that was given to the Shakespearean Birthday Committee, from which the Mulberry sample is derived, still grows today in "New Place" garden.) Mr Richard Savage was the Secretary and Liberian of the then renamed “Trustees and Guardians of Shakespeare’s Birthplace when the display case was given to Mr Harris in 1891 by Mr Loggin. WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE Shakespeare was born in 1564 in Stratford-upon-Avon, where he also grew up. He married at 18 years and he and his wife, Anne Hathaway, had three children: They moved to London where he became successful as an actor, writer, and part-owner of a playing company. He later returned to Stratford and purchased his last home, which he called "New Place" in 1602 where he later died in 1616. For the next 150 years, it was known that there existed a black mulberry tree in the garden. At the time there was a fashion for planting mulberry trees. It was the early 17th century after King James had come to the throne, and he imported tens of thousands of saplings in an attempt to get landowners to start a silk industry in England. Unfortunately for posterity, Shakespeare's mulberry was felled around 1756, by the then owner of “New Place" the Reverend Francis Gastrell, who was apparently tired of continual visits by pilgrims asking to see the tree, so he chopped it down. Gastrell had applied for local permission to extend the garden but the application was rejected and his tax was increased. Gastrell retaliated by demolishing the house in 1759, this greatly outraged the local inhabitants. Gastrell was eventually forced to leave town having provoked the wrath of Stratford residents for committing such an act. Today only the garden remains where “New House" used to stand with a scion from the original mulberry tree still growing there. The wood from the felled mulberry tree at “New House" was purchased by an enterprising local clock-maker Thomas Sharp and he spent the next 40 years or so years making souvenirs from the wood. These became early tourist souvenirs and subsequently developed into a profitable sideline for various other makers, including George Cooper and John Marshall. These objects range from relatively small domestic wooden objects, such as snuff boxes and weight scales to large tea caddies and even tables. C. F. Loggin donated a scion or cutting from Shakespeare's mulberry tree to the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust in 1862, he was a chemist who lived and worked in Stratford. There is a note on the frame of the donation that the mulberry sample is from this scion, research shows that from Richard Savage's diary notes that there must have been a lot of wood taken from that scion over the years which was planted in the garden of “New Place” and is still growing there today. The "Trustees and Guardians of Shakespeare’s Birthplace" (1847 -1964) was formed after the house where Shakespeare is believed to have been born fell into disrepair. Subsequently in 1846 after the death of Thomas Court's widow the last owner. Interest in the house was revived when PT Barnum, the American showman, wanted to buy it and ship the house back to America. In response to this, the Shakespeare Birthday Committee was established (by a private Act of Parliament) with the help of such luminaries as Charles Dickens, the Committee of Trustees raised the necessary £3,000 and purchased the house the following year. Once the Committee had acquired the building, restoration work began. Originally the Birthplace formed part of a terrace with later houses built either side. The first stage in its conservation was their destruction. At the time it was thought necessary to avoid the risk of fire spreading to Shakespeare's birthplace. Reconstruction was carried out by the Shakespeare Trust between 1857 and 1864 that restored the outside of the building to its original 16th-century state. It is from this restoration that the donated piece of oak is derived, originally from a beam that was in the house. Communication from The Shakespeare Birthplace Trust, dated April 11th, 2019, confirms that the pieces displayed in this case have good provenance. The wood samples are significant for their association with the history of William Shakespeare. The display case and its content is significant to Warrnambool local history for its association with the establishment in 1886 of the Warrnambool Museum and Art Gallery. However, it should be noted that the letters of authentication that accompany the wood samples are only applicable to the oak sample. None the less, all the pieces have very good provenance, with Richard Savage's certificate of authenticity for the oak, and the mulberry sample with the letter to Mr Harris from Mr CF Loggin having also been the donor of the scion of mulberry in 1862 to the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust. This scion was then established at Shakespeare's garden at "New Home" that had been demolished by Rev Francis Gastrell in 1759. Two wood samples associated with William Shakespeare, presented in a hanging, timber and glass display case with metal trim around the frame. The case also contains two letters and a label printed on a card that refers to the contents, their origins and the donor. A card label with a printed number and a round adhesive label are attached on the back of the case. The left round section of wood is from a donated scion (or shoot) derived from the original mulberry tree planted by William Shakespeare at his last home "New Place", Stratford-upon-Avon. The outer section is light brown coloured while the centre is dark grain. The right wood sample in the case is a section of oak rafter from the house where Shakespeare was born in 1564. The wood is mid brown with a distinct grain. The included letters, each dated 22/9/1891, refer to only the oak sample. - The letter on the left comprises two handwritten pages from Mr CF Loggin to Mr Richard Standcombe Harris. The paper has the printed letterhead address of High Street, Stratford on Avon. - The letter on the right is a handwritten certificate of authenticity signed by Mr CF Loggin and counter signed by Mr Richard Savage, Secretary and Liberian of the Shakespeare Trust. It is on the printed letterhead of The Trustees and Guardians of Shakespeare’s Birthplace Cardboard label inside the glass case “Shakespeare Section of Mulberry Tree, traditionally said to have been planted by Shakespeare in his garden, “New Place,” Stratford-on-Avon. PORTION OF OAK RAFTER from the house in which Shakespeare was born. (Presented by R S Harris 1891.) Printed label on the back of the case “3 2 “ The handwritten adhesive label “0566” flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shakespeare display case, wood samples, oak from shakespeare's birthplace, mulberry from shakespeare's home "new place", stratford-upon-avon, shakespeare's birthplace, the trustees and guardians of shakespeare's birthplace &c., shakespeare trust, shakespeare birthday committee, r.s. harris, brunswick, victoria, richard s harris, brunswick, victoria, c.f. loggins, chemist, 3 high street stratford-on-avon, richard savage, warrnambool museum and art gallery, thomas court, pt barnum, charles dickins, anne hathaway, black mulberry tree, reverend francis gastrell

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Full length cream synthetic fabric wedding dress with long sleeves and a train. Front and back have a yoke of lace. Three quarter length sleeves are made of the same lace with roulette trim at hem. Inner and outer edges of sleeves ruched for 3 cm. High round neck at back. V neckline at front. Front of bodice has two side darts and two under bust darts. Bodice at waist line has three decorative scallops at front and back. Synthetic fabric of bodice has woven fabric backing. Side opening on left hand side is fastened with nine press studs. Full length skirt of lighter weight opaque synthetic fabric has centre seams at front and back. Fabric is cut on the bias to form a 360? full circle skirt with a train at centre back. An additional section of fabric is attached at either side to complete the circle. At centre back of the skirt is an inverted pleat to create fullness for the train. Hemline is edged with lace with four rows of tucks above the hem, 1 cm apart. Separate petticoat of heavier woven synthetic fabric attached at waist. Petticoat cut on the bias to create 360? full circle skirt with inverted pleat at centre back to create fullness. Narrow turned over hem. Petticoat skirt dips to a V shape at centre front and back seams. Machine stitched.costume, female ceremonial, wedding dress

Clothing. Black silk-satin fabric, mid-calf length dress, gathered from the waistline. A black, pleated cummerbund encircles the waist, fastening at the left side with three metal hooks, and hand stitched loops. Long set in sleeveshave a fine piping around the arm holes, and have a hand stitched neatening to finish. Shoulder seams are also piped. A long, narrow collar of lace, bound in 2.5 cm satin edging, attaches almost to the waistline-finishing just 9 cm above the waist. A 'bib front' attached at the right side to the bodice lining, attached to the eaistline, and closing on the left hand shoulder side, with metal hooks, and hand stitched loops. Bodice closes over the top with a metal press-stud. Front bodice has three tiny pleats on each shoulder seam and gathers into the waistline seam. Fine georgette fabric, backed with fine net fabric, is with tiny glass beads, and forms the top of the 'bib front'. Fine beading of tiny beads outlines the high round neck. Larger glass beads and silky lace trim the lower 'bib front'. The lg sleeves are gathered lightly at the shoulder, which isoutlined with fine piping. Cut as a straight piece of fabric, a rectangular 'wing effect' at the wrist, is lightly gathered into a 13 cm deep lace cuff, fastening with two metal hooks, and hand-stitched eyes. Sleeves are lined with fine fabric.costume, female, black silk satin dress

Photographs of various sizes pasted on cardboard for display purposes. Some annotated. (1)Rose with 4 pieces cut off it. (2)"Citrus rootstock in nursery ready for budding." (3) "Feb. Left. Healthy budstick of current season's growth. Right. Prepared budstick, foliage and undeveloped buds removed, short section of leaf-stick reatined." (4) Same as (3). (5)"Harvest scions while dormant and store in moist, well-drained soil." (6) "Whip-tongue graft after one season of growth." (7) "Graft after one season of growth." (8) "Mastic applied to keep air and moisture from the cut surfaces." (9) "Graft tied to prevent movement." (10) "Young camellia-struck cutting." (11) Cutting beside pot. (12) "Feb. Same pot camellia struck." (13) Clump of dug-up perennials. (14) Divided piece. (15) Trimmed. (16) "April. Seedling Polyanthus." (17) Cuttings. (18) Clump of rooted cuttings. (19) Trimming rooted cutting. (20) Clump of Begonia. (21) Dividing Begonia. (22) Begonia leaf cut into pieces. (23) Rooted cuttings from leaf. (24) Putting leaf pieces in pot. (25) Pot of rooted cuttings. (26) Lupin seedlings emerging. (27) Lupin seedlings. (28) Clump of roots? From A. W. Jessep.roses, nursery, budstick, grafting, growth, camellia, polyanthus, cutting, trimming, begonia, dividing, a. w. jessep, citrus rootstock, scions, whip-tongue graft, perennials, lupin seedlings

This baker’s wagon (or cart) was used to transport and deliver bread and other baked goods in the Warrnambool area. It is currently decorated with signwriting advertising H.H. Smith, Baker who owned and operated his Warrnambool bakery in the late 19th and early 20th century. The design of this baker’s wagon is similar to others dating around the 1930’s and 1940’s and was likely to have been built around that time for Stephenson’s Bakery in Warrnambool. The wagon’s original internal shelves were removed due to it being used in the early days at Flagstaff Hill to give children rides around the Village. BAKERS’ HISTORY There were many bakeries in Warrnambool in the 19th to mid-20th century. Each bread bakery made bread deliveries by horse and wagon in their appointed delivery zone. This wagon has sign writing representing Smith’s bakery although it is most likely the delivery wagon of Stephenson’s bakery. SMITH’S BAKERY – as shown on the wagon’s signage Henry Huntington Smith (1857-1941) was born and educated in Warrnambool. He worked at Davis’ steam biscuit factory in Timor Street before he started his own bakery business in 1885 at a premises near the corner of Fairy and Koroit Streets. A few years later Smith built his new bakery on the corner of Fairy and Lava Street where it still stands today as Monaghan’s Pharmacy. The building was designed by James McLeod in 1892 as a bakehouse, shop and residence for Smith The address was known locally as Smith’s corner. Next door to the bakery, at 136 Fairy Street, were Stables built by Jobbins and McLeod in 1886 for William Cust. A photograph in the archives of the Warrnambool and District Historical Society shows the 1892 building with four fancy horse-drawn wagons on the street with white clad drivers and a promotional stand erected with 5 bakers in uniform and the signage “H H Smith & Co, Pastry Cooks and Confectioners”. One of the wagons appears to have “H H Smith” painted on the side. H.H. Smith & Co. placed an Advertisement in the Weekly Times in December 1896 promoting its business as bakers, confectioners and pastry cooks, praising their shop as an ‘ornament to the town’ with ‘neat appointments’ and ‘dainty decorations’. It also boasted that the business supplied a large number of customers within a twelve mile radius of Warrnambool. In November 1919 The Warrnambool Standard announced the marriage of Henry H Smith, Mayor of Warrnambool, to Jeannie Samson-Goodman in East Adelaide. In the same newspaper was a notice that Frank Crossley was to open as baker and pastry cook in H.H. Smith’s premises. As well as being the proprietor of the H.H. Smith Bakery, Henry Huntington Smith was a Councillor for the Warrnambool Municipality from 1913 – 1937 and Mayer for two terms. In December 1919 during his first term as Mayor he was honoured for the work he had done with returning soldiers after World War I, receiving a document in recognition of this work, presented by the Mothers, Wives and Sisters of returned soldiers. Smith was very interested and involved in the community in many roles, including being the Vice President of the first Warrnambool and District Historical Society. STEPHENSON’S BAKERY – believed to be the past owner of the wagon The last owner of the bakery was Harold Stephenson. Stephenson was enlisted in the A.I.F. and was invalided home in 1943 before the end of the Second World War. He also served as a Councillor 1958-1976, during which time he served six terms as Mayor for the City of Warrnambool (1966-1973) while he had the bakery. He was very involved in many local organisations including the Warrnambool Surf Life Saving Club and the Road Race Committee. He died in 1985, lauded as being one of Warrnambool’s “most distinguished civic leaders”. It has been said that the baker injured in World War II invented a special contraption to enable him to get up into the wagon and that he alerted his customers that he was in their vicinity by blowing a whistle. The customers would come out and choose their own bread from the back of his wagon then pay him for it. However another account is given by a man who once earned pocket money by helping the baker on his rounds. He says that it was Stephenson, the owner and manager of the bakery, and not the delivery baker who received a significant injury during the war, making him unable to climb the stairs of his upstairs accommodation at the bakery, therefore causing him to sleep downstairs. At this time in the early to late 1940’s Stephenson’s bakery had three wagons, one for each of the delivery rounds. The wagons were painted black and yellow. Two of the drivers were Stan Lake and Ali (Alec) Dean who both had wagons with the covered cabin design. The third driver was Bill Lake who had a flat wagon. Stan Lake delivered in the area around Lava and Koroit Streets, Ali Dean had another round and Bill Lake had the Dennington area. Bread continued to be delivered into the 1960’s but by this time the delivery vehicles were motorised. The goods produced at Stephenson’s bakery included breads baked in different shaped tins such as High Tin, Sandwich and Vienna. Some shapes were easily divided into half by breaking them apart, therefore the baker could make two quarter loaves from a half loaf, satisfying different needs. There was the option of white or brown bread, sweet buns, fruit buns and Boston buns. The baker’s assistant was known to take great delight in ‘trimming’ the broken halves of excess bread and crust, enjoying his treat. THE BAKERY PREMISES – South east corner of Fairy and Lava Streets, Warrnambool The building retains the original cast iron veranda. Above the veranda a motif of a wheat sheaf in ornamental plaster can be seen. Inside the building there are still has some of the original fittings. The building was classified by the National Trust in August 1979. After the Second World War an official system of zoning was introduced as a fair way for the baking industry to operate. In 1949 different pricing was introduced by the Government for either delivered or retail purchased bread. Many of the small local bakeries went out of business after the Government banned zoning. The way was made open for the larger bread manufacturers to enter the local market with cheaper prices. Some of those companies were Mc Queens, Tip Top, Twisties, Sunicrust, (Mc Queens ‘new’ bakery building was where the current Toyworld shop now stands, is, in the Ozone carpark.) O’Grady’s Bakery, later changing hands and known as Burkes Bakery, was in Fairy Street near Timor Street intersection, on the North West side. There was also a bakery named Almay. The baker’s wagon is significant because of its association with H.H. Smith’s Bakery in Warrnambool.. The H.H. Smith’s Bakery building on the corner of Fairy and Lava Streets, built in 1892, is classified by the National Trust, August 1979. Smith Street Warrnambool was named after Henry Huntington Smith, who was a Warrnambool Councillor 1913 – 1937 and Mayor 1919 – 1921. Baker’s wagon, often referred to as a baker’s cart. Four wheeled horse-drawn delivery wagon, front wheels smaller than rear wheels. Wagon is clad with metal sheets and lined with varnished timber panels. Wheels have metal rims, wooden spokes and rear wheels have wooden brake pads. Horse shaft is timber with metal fittings. Front has a metal lamp holder, brake lever, metal hand grips and decorative metal foot plates. The wagon has suspension leaves on back and sides and double suspension leaves on the front. Driver’s area at front has a roof, glass side windows and wooden box seat with hinged compartment accessing wagon storage area. Door above back of seat has buckled leather handgrip strap attached, door slides open for access to wagon area. Back of wagon has a wooden step and a split door; top door has ventilation louvers, both doors have metal latches. Wagon is painted cream with brown trim and signage and green step. Remnants of red and green paint are visible; underside of seat panel is painted grey. Wagon advertises H.H. Smith & Co. Baker, a Warrnambool business established in 1885, but is of a more modern design seen around 1930’s and 1940’s and most likely belonging to Stephenson's bakery. Brown signwriting on sides of wagon “H.R. SMITH & CO. / BAKER” Brown signwriting across front of wagon “BAKER” warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, shipwrecked-artefact, great ocean road, baker’s wagon, h.h. smith baker, warrnambool, henry h smith, jeannie samson-goodman, frank crossley, mayor of city of warrnambool, vice president of warrnambool and district historical society, stephenson’s bakery warrnambool, harold stephenson, warrnambool surf life saving club, road race committee, national trust building, stan lake, bill lake, ali dean, 19th and 20th century bakers, davies steam biscuit factory warrnambool, james mcleod building designer, jobbins and mcleod, william cust, h h smith & co, pastry cooks and confectioners, bakery trade, bread delivery wagon

Large families were the norm, rather than the exception up to the time of the World wars. perhaps the senseless destruction of those young lives sickened humanity- perhaps the increased taxes and cost of living resulting from the wars caused a necessary reduction in family size. Perhaps the independence won by women as they carried on their daily lives without their men, made mothers say, "Enough" The Warren family farmed the fertile Fyans Creek flats in the Grampian Mountains of Western Victoria. Some say Halls Gap was so named because the bushranger Hall holed up there in the early days. The rugged slopes and hidden gullies could have hidden a whole gang of bushrangers, but little remained undiscovered to a wandering family of 12 children growing up with their flocks and herds grazing the ranges. A tired rider could nod off, safe in the knowledge a trusty stockhorse would plod steadily homeward into the night. Responsibility quickly made youngsters capable and reliable. Then Australia went to war. There were three older brothers, then the girls, then young Frank. All the men went, including Frank. So the girls had to run the farm alone. Their mother had her hands full with the youngsters, still attending school, a daily walk over the mountain to Pomonal and return. But the loss of the men's casual wages from timber cutting and labouring jobs, meant great hardship is some method of earning a cash income had to be devised. Paying guests! That was it. So Myrtle Bank Guest House was born. City folk flocked to the mountain resort. High stepping mountain horses met them at the Stawell raid-head, with the tall and beautiful Warren girls driving them in experienced fashion, their auburn hair sometimes falling from its pins to fly free, as the dray bowled along towards the hills. The would hitch up their skirts to saw and chop wood for the stoves and fires. They milked cows and delivered calves. They shore sheep and trimmed their feet. They mustered their cattle as the seasons rolled by, and the paying guests watched and participated, fascinated. With laughter and song, the girls would wash up in a tin dish, throw on their house clothes to wait on table, sing and play piano, violin, accordion, enjoying the talk of the city and that other world so far away from their mountain home. The simple country menu was a hit, and the homemade bread, butter, jams and preserves, fruit and vegetables sent guests staggering to their armchairs. Picnics, hikes, goodbyes and welcomes blurred as the years of the war dragged by. Bookings were made and remade as the new enterprise became established. Peace was declared. the men returned A whole new building rose with two floors, inviting verandahs and bathrooms. Myrtle Bank would remain a family business all its lifetime, until buried below the Bellfield Dam, by which time more than one the girls had joined their beloved Frank, lost on Flanders Field. Article in book or magazine describing life at Myrtlebank during war years Other article written from letter from soldier P Lillis to his sister 3rd article of woman from country enlisting in WAAF Submitted by Carol of Bannockburn, Submitted by D Langley Submitted by Meryl of South Frankstonaccommodation, myrtlebank, people, warren

Framed portrait of Bruce Small who was President of the Association for the Blind 1955-1964. It is part of a series of paintings commissioned by the VAF Board to commemorate the work of past presidents of the organisation. Mr Small stands in his Gold Coast mayoral robes, which consist of a dark blue velvet with ermine trim and a white ruffled shirt.. He wears a mayoral chain of office around his neck and glasses, with his hands clasped in front of him. Sir Bruce Small joined the Vision Australia’s General committee in 1944 and became President of the organisation in 1955. He developed an efficient team with Sir Hubert Opperman (for many years the world’s number one cyclist), whom he brought in as Vice President and Mr. Pat Lightfoot, himself president for many years. Sir Bruce had to leave school at an early age after the death of his father in order to support his family. The lessons he learned from this episode in his life created a man of quick wit, with a razor sharp mind and the skills of a gambler - attributes that enabled him to achieve his goal of “aiming for the stars”. This was put into effect when he proposed a plan for 3 new Vision Australia nursing homes in 5 years at Ballarat, Bendigo and Brighton at a cost, which at that time seemed impossible but which was finally achieved between 1957 and 1959, through astute financial management. Sir Bruce also supported the concept of organisational decentralization and made amendments to the constitution, which enabled the associated branches of the Vision Australia (then the Association for the Advancement of the Blind) to form local committees. This was in order to generate local interest in the blind people in the community and engage them in fund raising and running of the nursing homes. Although he resigned in 1964 when he moved to Queensland he still retained an interest in Vision Australia. Sir Bruce had always pushed for a symbol for Vision Australia which would be recognized by the public and serve a useful purpose. This took the form of a beacon which was erected at Brighton, overlooking the sea, having a twofold purpose – a reference point and guiding light for small craft, and symbolically for blind people a guiding light to direct them to a safe harbour. Sir Bruce switched on the guiding light at in 1969 having already donated the cost of $3000. Prior to joining Vision Australia, Sir Bruce had operated the Malvern Star bicycle business in Glenferrie Rd. He promoted and expanded the business making Malvern Star the industry leader in Australia. This was aided by his friendship with Sir Hubert Oppermen, who promoted Malvern Star bikes through his role as world’s number one cyclist. In 1967 he became Mayor of the Gold Coast and, in 1972 he was elected to the Queensland Parliament representing the seat of Surfers Paradise. 1 art original in gold frameThe plaque at the base of the painting reads 'Mr Bruce Small / President 1955 - 1964 / Association for the Blind'.association for the blind, bruce small

Photos/postcards are addressed with much affection to "Thel". 1. B & W portrait of soldier with peaked cap. Aust Rising Sun is on the cap and he is wearing a great coat. He has a moustache. 2. B & W studio portrait of soldier seated. He has his slouch hat folded down with the chin strap on. He has a triangle colour patch on right shoulder, He is wearing leather leggings. 3. B & W portrait of Jack Parsons in a type of Arabic costume. Tents in background. On rear it states "Middle East - Jack Parsons 1940." The moustache has gone. 4. B & W full length portrait. Jack Parsons in uniform with an Arabic style head-dress. Tents in background. 5. Seated portrait of Jack Parsons in uniform. He has a peaked cap, jersey and an MP armband. 6. B & W photo of soldier standing beside a vehicle which has the bonnet up. On the rear is written 25/11/40 to Thel from Jack. Palestine. 7. B & W portrait of soldier standing at ease. He has a peaked cap. Uniform shorts, long socks & shoes. He is wearing a pistol holster on his left hip. On the the back is written "Jack Parsons, Middle East 1940," 8. B & W photo of Jack Parsons in civilian attire, dark shirt & tie. A jacket with light trim. Light coloured trousers. No moustache. On the rear is written "Jack Parsons, Bankstown". 2. The green ink has run. From " Alexandria - Egypt."photos, ww2

Clothing. Cream polished cotton, full length half slip petticoat. Plackett at the back, fastens with two metal hooks, and hand-stitched loops. The back features a 'crinolette', where two rows of tapes are gathered in to give volume to the back of the garment. As the crinoline started to subside at the end of the 1860's. The centre front panel features 6 angled bands of lace 4.5 cm wide and angled to form a V shape. (1) A 9.5 cm band of pleated linen gauze-like fabric, edged with a 5 cm band of linen lace. (2) A 15 cm double layered frill-top layer 2 cm wide silk like pleats, lined with linen muslin type fabric, and an under frill of polished cotton, pleated in one cm wide knife pleats. The top frill is of fine cream cotton lace. At the top edge is a 3.5 cm wide band of floral cotton lace, and adjoined at the lower edge with a 9 cm deep pleated trim of exquisite cotton "floral and swirls" lace. The top frill is 42 cm wide, and extends over the centre front panel only. A cotton covered " stiffening- possibly bamboo or whale bone, extends 31.5 cm ;long at the crinolette. An unusual 'pocket like bag' is sewn into the right side seam 14 cm below the waist. This has rounded corners, and is 8 cm wide at the top, 17.5 cm wide at the lower edge, which is then rounded slightly. Overall length of the 'pocket' is 38 cms.costume, female, crinolette full length half slip

Clothing. Cream coloured lace silk wedding dress. Dress made from fine silk fabric with self stripe, fully lined with cream coloured linen. High round neckline with stand up lace collar(6cm). Bodice at front has crossover from shoulder to waist, forming deep Vshape at centre front with net insert below the collar. Net insert has vertical pin tucks. Bodice front and back has cream coloured lace overlay that extends over the shoulders to halfway down the 3/4 length sleeves. Hem of sleeves trimmed with embroidered lace with geometric pattern. Cummer bund of pleated silk fabric (7cm) is attached around waistband. Floor length skirt is gathered into the waistband.Front of skirt has straight lace panelsoverlay (37cmX 90 cm) including 20 cm flounce at lower edge, attached at waistline. Back of skirt has gathered lace overlay attached at waistline extending across side seams and over the edge of front lace panel. Centre back opening fastened with eighteen metal hooks and eyes from collar to waist and six metal press-studs below the waist. Cummerbund fastened with three metal hooks and eyes. A fabric insert at centre back fastened with press-studs. Collar has five pieces of stiffening plastic. Bodice has three bone casings across front above waistline, and four across the back. Cotton tape band (66 cm X 3cm) attached inside bodice at front with hook and eye fasteing.Printed on inside waistband, ''AMALIA SALXANO FARRONE'' NAPOLI ''MODE +CON----'' VIA EGIZIACA A PIZZO FALCONE 93''. Printed inside LHS sleeve at arm pit ''SAXONIA 48X''.costume, female, cream coloured wedding dress

A bodice belonging to the family of George Ward Cole in the late 1800s. George Ward Cole was an early member of the Victorian Parliament and the family featured prominently in Melbourne Society in their time. They established a substantial home known as “St Ninians” at 10 Miller Street in 1841. The family reportedly entertained Melbourne’s first Royal visitor The Duke Of Edinburgh, Queen Victoria’s second son, at St Ninians in 1867. In later years St Ninians was subsequently subdivided and later demolished. A hand sewn cream silk satin evening bodice from c.1865. This bodice features a very low, wide scooped neckline with a set in sleeve and four small pleats across the head of the shoulder. The elbow length, straight fitted sleeves are trimmed with a pleated ruffle that extends around the arm finishing at the elbow crease at the inside arm and tapering to mid forearm length at the back. The fitted bodice, lined with waxed linen, fastens down the centre front with eight covered buttons of the bodice fabric. The front two panels wrap around the sides of the bodice to meet another series of panels creating a princess line with a delineated central spine. The waist position is just below the natural waist at the sides, tapering to an elongated front covering the belly. From the sides towards the back it curves up to the natural waistline and then down again to a central point. The bodice is decorated with strips of the same fabric, which has been tucked, pleated and padded to create ruching. The ruching edge has a multi coloured thread, suggestive of rosettes, on both sides. In the front of the bodice, a strip runs down the centre front, concealing the buttonholes, and finishing at the elongated point. It then goes up the bodice over the bust line where it meets the neckline. It follows the neckline around the nape of the neck and back down the front over the bust line to the centre front. More strips run around the base of the fitted sleeve near the elbow above the ruffle. The rosette like coloured thread finishes the base of the ruffle. st ninians, george ward cole, bodice, late 1800s, brighton, margaret morrison ward cole

This dress was donated as having belonged to Annie Elizabeth McLean, who worked as a maid to the daughters of Samuel Renwick of Caulfield. Annie was born in Argyllshire, Scotland in 1853. This dress appears to have been originally made circa 1855 and then modified circa 1872. As Annie would only have been two years old in 1855, this indicates that the dress would most probably have been originally made for someone else and later acquired by Annie. Annie Elizabeth McLean arrived in the Colony of Victoria from Argyllshire, Scotland with her aunts and cousins in 1867, aged thirteen and a half. She had been educated in Scotland and eventually became a personal maid and then companion to the Renwick girl, daughters of Samuel Renwick of Caulfield, Victoria. The Renwicks' home, 'The Garrell' on Glen Eira Road, was one of Caulfield's earliest residences, having been built around 1854. Samuel was a business partner of William Kerr Thomson, a well-known Brighton resident and the original occupant of the North Road mansion 'Kamesburgh'. During her time with the Renwick family, Annie travelled with them to England, then to Scotland, then back to Victoria. She left the family upon the marriage of the youngest Renwick daughter, then went to the household of Sir William and Lady McCullough until she left to be married to Alfred John Ashfold in 1878.This c1872 grey and white silk pin stripe dress features a high round neckline with eleven decorative blue silk buttons and secured by a concealed line of fifteen hook and eyelet closure. The bodice (.1) has decorative blue and green braid over the shoulder and bust and across the base of the bodice. The dress features three darts shaping the dress to the body. The sleeve is cut high but relatively full and tapers to the elbow then flares again in Pagoda like style but ends at the wrist or hand. The skirt (.2) opens over the left hip and features a pocket over the right hip. The skirt at the front finishes at the ankle or just above the ground. At the back the bodice features panels shaping the dress into the body and pleated and flared from the waist. At the small of the back is a decorative bow with pinked edges and decorative braid. The skirt at the back is uncommon in shape most likely as the result of modification. It appears to have had panels removed reducing its original fullness. It has a tape inside the back of the skirt that would draw the skirt in creating a bustle like shape . It would appear that the dress had been modified in order to create a more fashionable silhouette most probably in circa 1872. There are three separate pieces of fabric. One is made up into a semi-circular over-skirt trimmed with blue braid and fringing (.3). Two pieces are unpicked skirt gores, one still has its cotton lining attached (.4 and .5).annie elizabeth mclean, samuel renwick, the garrell, caulfield

BHS CollectionPhotograph of four Hanro models: Black and white photo of four ladies modelling Hanro dresses.. Three ladies are wearing Hanro dresses and the fourth is in a tailored suit .On the left the dress is of light material and has short sleeves, padded shoulders, high neck with three darts either side at the next and four buttons down the centre. The dress has darts at the waist and is drawn in with a belt. Second lady from the left is wearing a long sleeve dress with padded shoulders set in sleeves, and gathered at the cuff and secured with a button. The bodice is V necked with a collar, has gathering at the shoulders and is buttoned up with two buttons down the centre, darts under the bust line and a belt is at the waist. The third lady is in a dark suit with a long sleeved tailored jacket with padded shoulders, V necked with a collar and five buttons down the centre. Pockets either side are trimmed with buttons. The suit has a straight skirt. The lady to the right is in a light coloured dress with short set in sleeves and a peter pan collar. At the top half of the bodice the dress has vertical pin tucking with five buttons down the centre. The waist has darts at the bust line and the skirt is of a gored style, there is a belt at the waist. The hem line are all below the knee and are all wearing high heals. The ladies are standing in front of a wall of wood panelling. On the back written in pencil is *Joyce, Yvonne and Clarice. Copyright Bendigo Advertiser. Bendigo Advertiser Photographic Service. For re-order Quote CK242. Box 116ABendigo advertiser Photographic Servicephotograph, person, hanro, hanro. bendigo advertiser photographic service

BHS CollectionHanro Advertising Brochure for Undergarments: Four page brochure on a brown background with pink framed pictures of a model in a black and white photo wearing undergarments. The first page in a large frame is a model with long blond hair wearing a spencer trimmed with lace and is ribbed at the waist and is wearing briefs. At the bottom right side is printed 'Hanro of Switzerland in white print and on the left is the numbers: A)204/61563-41061 and the wool symbol. Page two has five frames with different spencers and briefs. At the bottom of each frame has the number of the garments and has the cotton symbol. The Third page has five frames each with different garments and their item numbers at the bottom along with a wool or cotton symbol. At the top printed in white is 'Hanro of Switzerland'. Back page has a large frame with a model wearing a Camisette and bikini, at the bottom printed in white is 'M02631/11166-40050 and the cotton symbol. To the right bottom printed in white is 'Hanro of Switzerland. At the right side top of the frame is printed in white 'Reine Schurwolle, Pure Laine vierge, Pura lana vergine, with the wool symbol to the side. Reine Baumwolle gezwirnt, Pur coton retors, Filo di scozia. With the cotton symbol. The bottom of the page has a border of 6cm in the pink colour. In the center of the brochure on A4 white paper in black print is a price list, page number and Item description. The page is header 'Hanro Preisliste/Prix courant Herbst/Automne 1977. Box 116AHanro AG, CH-4410 Liestal, Switzerland . Printed in Switzerland 77/2hanro, clothing, intimate apparel

Following World War One, the present Memorial Gates at the front of the Lara Recreation Reserve (opposite the service station), were erected and the names of 104 men and woman who enlisted from Lara Districts were added. Twenty four paid the supreme sacrifice. They were erected at a cost of £380 by Barklamb Brothers of Caulfield. His Excellency The Governor Lord Somers officially opened the gates on 22 December 1929. RSM Cadwell was in charge of the program. The ceremony involved a large gathering where Lord. Names on Gates of WW1 Veterans Listed below - Following World War One, the present Memorial Gates at the front of the Lara Recreation Reserve (opposite the service station), were erected and the names of 104 men and woman who enlisted from Lara and districts were added. Twenty Four paid the supreme sacrifice. His Excellency The Governor Lord Somers officially opened the gates. RSM Cadwell was in charge of the programme. Sommers inspected a guard of honour from the 23rd Battalion (City of Geelong Regiment). In addition to a parade of returned soldiers, music was provided by the Geelong City Band. Names on Gates of WW1 Veterans Listed below - Andserson W.A. Fry J.F. Mullins M. Bates J. * Gabrielson E. * McDonald H. Bates G. Gardiner H.A. McDonald G. Beggs J.S. Gibbons H. * McHarry E.J. Bennett E.J. (3755) Gibbons W. McEwan G. Beardsell T. Gibbons G. McIntyre J.L. (3421) Branch W.J. (3029) Grass E.J. (687) McIntyre J.W. (7049) Callaghan C. Grass C.H. McIntosh J. Carter W.J. Groves H. McKellar G. Cashmore J.A. Harris W. McLeod R. Cashmore F.J. Heal H. P. (1134) Nicholls J. Cashmore A.G. Heal F.W. (1135) Olive C.A. * Cashmore A.J. Heal E.L. (1133) Oliver D.H. Chirnside J.L. Heyward F.C. * Owens S.J. Clayton J.H. * Heyward W. O'Neill J. Connop J. * Hill E.J. * Parsons M. Connop E. * Howard H.L. (4138) Parker S. Collins F.H. * Inglis H. Perkins C.E. Collins R.B. * Izon C.E. Shannahan J. Collins H. James R. Spitty C. Collins A. Jenkins W. Steele J. Coogan M.T. * Jenkins H. Tayler R. Curle O. Kee H.K. Tayler W.H. (794) Duggan H.J. * Keneally J. Teesdale V.B. (5241) Duggan R. Kent G.G. Thomas D.H. Duggan T.M. Kortright J. Tregilas S. * Dunn W. Lodge J.A. * Trim A. Dodesmaide F. * Lodge G.L. * Tipping S. * Edols R.W. Lodge T.S. * Turnbull J.W. * Farrelly P. Miller P. * Walker H.D. Farrer R. * Minogue P. Watt W. Firth D.H. * Moodie E. Wembridge W.P. * Firth A.C. Morgan C.E. Sister McNaughton K. Foot M.T. Moroney L.F. (4088) Sister McIntosh S. Foot C.H. * The Supreme Sacrifice Sommers inspected a guard of honour from the 23rd Battalion (City of Geelong Regiment). In addition to a parade of returned soldiers, music was provided by the Geelong City Band. The Memorial Gates are of local heritage significance and are included as Heritage Overlays in the Greater Geelong Planning Scheme,unveiled by the govenor Lord Somers on the 22 dec 1929. Read comments on bottom of photoComprising four square granite piers with central vehicular and flanking pedestrian metal gates.The gates commemorate the names of the 104 men and women of the Lara region who served in World War One.lara, memorial gate, ww1, world war 1, lara recreation reserve, lord somers, rsm cadwell, 1928, monument, 23rd battalion, city of geelong regiment, geelong city band

Mrs Georgina Hill (wife of Henry), nee Reynolds (of Research, Vic.) in cap [possibly misidentified by donor - see note below] with Mrs Isaac Hill and her children (left to right) Amelia Hill, (born 1853) Mrs Isaac Hill with baby Isaac (born 1860, Eltham) on her lap. Mary Jane Hill (born 1857, Eltham) seated on Mrs Henry Hill's lap and Bob Hill. The Hill family were early settlers of the Eltham area. Daguerreotype photo enclosed in a leather bound clam shell box with felt lining and gold trim. Donated by Mrs Ivy Edna Hill, 4/1 Bridge Street, Eltham, 4 June 1966 and includes copy of her note identifying the people. Daguerreotypes were one of the first forms of early photographs. They initially appeared in Europe in 1839 and were produced in large numbers to the early 1850s but were superseded by more modern and flexible forms of technology by 1860. The photo was usually formed on a thin copper plate with light sensitve silver iodide. They have a mirror-like appearance and the image itself was mirrored. They were usually inserted into a case or frame made of wood bound in leather or velvet and cost about one guinea in Australia, the equivalent of a week's wages. With the advent of the gold-rush and growing population came an increase in numbers of photographers both studio and travelling. The daguerreotype process was protected by patents and could only result in a single image from which no copies could be made. With new technology involving wet colloidion glass plate negatives and albumen paper prints of which multiple copies could be produced at significantly reduced cost, the dauguerreotype quickly fell out of favour. An accompanying note with the photo written by Edna Hill of 4/1 Bridge Street Eltham dated 4 June 1966 states: "Dear Mr Watson, I think the enclosed old time photograph will be of interest to you. It would have been taken about 1860. The two ladies are the wives of the original pioneers of the Hill family. The one in the cap was the wife of Henry Hill, the other of Isaac Hill. The children are those of Mrs Isaac Hill, and grandchildren to Henry Hill. The little girl on the left is Amelia, the baby Isaac, the second girl is Mary Jane, and the boy on the right is Bob Hill. They grew up tobe Uncles and Aunts of my late husband. I greatly appreciated a letter received a few months ago per Cr Pelling, from the Shillinglaw Cottage Committee. Yours sincerely, Edna Hill" Victorian birth registrations show Mary Jane Hill was born 1857 in Eltham (9879 / 1857) and Isaac Hill at Eltham in 1860 (1972/1860) NOTE: Mrs Isaac Hill was Ellen Fitzsimons (1834-1863), mother to Henry Hill. Mrs Georgina Hill, wife of Henry cannot be the lady in the cap as she was not born till 1864. Georgina Reynolds (1864-1927) married Henry Hill (1862-1948) in 1884. This lady has significant wrinkling of the face, especially around her mouth. It is possible that she is the mother of Mrs Isaac Hill (Ellen Fitzsimons) who was Isabella Fitzsimons (nee Ferguson).This photo forms part of a collection of photographs gathered by the Shire of Eltham for their centenary project book,"Pioneers and Painters: 100 years of the Shire of Eltham" by Alan Marshall (1971). The collection of over 500 images is held in partnership between Eltham District Historical Society and Yarra Plenty Regional Library (Eltham Library) and is now formally known as 'The Shire of Eltham Pioneers Photograph Collection.' It is significant in being the first community sourced collection representing the places and people of the Shire's first one hundred years.Digital image 4 x 5 inch B&W Negsepp, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, eltham, hill family, research (vic.), women, amelia hill, bob hill, daguerreotype, early settlers, georgina hill (nee reynolds), isaac hill, mary jane hill, mrs henry hill, mrs isaac hill, ellen hill (nee fitzsimons), isabella fitzsimons (nee ferguson)

ELTHAM HERITAGE TOUR The Society excursion on 24th May 1992 was arranged by David Bick, leader of the team carrying out the Shire's heritage study. David selected a number of sites or buildings identified in the study, some of them lesser known components of the Shire's heritage. The tour commenced at the Eltham Shire Office at 10.00 am. Travel was by private car and mini-bus with stops at about twelve locations for commentary by David.It included a short walk in Hurstbridge and lunch at Kinglake. Highlights of the tour included: - 10 am Leave from Shire Offices - 3 Important Trees - A Physical Link to Eltham's First Settlers - Toorak Mansion Gates - A Surviving Farm House - An Intact Circa 1900 Main Street - First Settlers - Gold Miners, and Timber-getters - An Early Hotel - A Pioneering Homestead - Changing Eltham Shire - 20th Century - 4 pm Afternoon Tea and Finish Tour Extract from ELTHAM CULTURAL HERITAGE TOUR (Newsletter No. 85, July 1992, by Bettina Woodburn) "On the Arthurs Creek Road is a bridge designed by Monash, which we admired before walking across the little park with a mud-brick and timber shelter, to the Hurst family graveyard. There are two marked graves, one, Henry who was shot by Burke the bushranger and a cairn has a plaque listing others buried here from 1866 onwards. Burke was captured and tied to the wheel of a dray under the eucalypt near the waterhose/standpipe. Close by the kindergarten, at this place are three trees on the National Trust Register, a Canary Island pine, a Canadian cedar and probably a spruce. Radiata pines and a thick bolled peppercorn surround the little cemetery. Continuing along Main Street we notice elm trees planted as a war memorial, then on the left a 1930 timber house, a 1910 store and residence, resplendent with wrought iron trim, a double fronted Hardware Store and cypresses on the back alignment of a new vacant block. On the right side of the street is a less interesting attempt at an 'in character' shop. Further on are more early homes, one tucked away at the rear with two tall palms by the front steps. Another curiosity is a rounded veranda corner and there are more galvanised iron sheds or garages, before a mud-brick Dentist's Surgery. Beyond the round-a-about is St Peters Church, of mud-brick construction shared by Catholic and Anglican parishioners, overlooking the river flood plain. Leaving Hurstbridge on the Kinglake Road, we ate our picnic lunch beside the communication tower and enjoyed views of Melbourne, Yan Yean Reservoir and the distant Dandenongs beyond the spreading suburbs. Next we drove to the North West boundary of the Shire at Masons Falls Road towards Whittlesea. On the way to the North East Boundary we passed St Peters, a yellow wooden Church with a Tudor Archway; built in the early 1920's in the style of the 1860's. From the Healesville-Kinglake road the rolling hills had European aspects, the hedged fields and chestnut trees. Then it was back down the Hurstbridge Road through 'Aussie' bush of towering gums, with bracken and scrubby understorey, the Kinglake National Park, before more open country with deciduous trees planted in line, and a creek lined with willows."Record of the Society's history and activities and highlighting various aspects of the Heritage Study undertaken by David Bick used to create the future heritage overlay for the Shire of Eltham and later Nillumbik Shire.Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak Gold 100 5095shire of eltham historical society, activities, heritage tour, hurstbridge, monash bridge, arthurs creek road

Mrs Georgina Hill (wife of Henry), nee Reynolds (of Research, Vic.) in cap [possibly misidentified by donor - see note below] with Mrs Isaac Hill and her children (left to right) Amelia Hill, (born 1853) Mrs Isaac Hill with baby Isaac (born 1860, Eltham) on her lap. Mary Jane Hill (born 1857, Eltham) seated on Mrs Henry Hill's lap and Bob Hill. The Hill family were early settlers of the Eltham area. Daguerreotype photo enclosed in a leather bound clam shell box with felt lining and gold trim. Donated by Mrs Ivy Edna Hill, 4/1 Bridge Street, Eltham, 4 June 1966 and includes copy of her note identifying the people. Daguerreotypes were one of the first forms of early photographs. They initially appeared in Europe in 1839 and were produced in large numbers to the early 1850s but were superseded by more modern and flexible forms of technology by 1860. The photo was usually formed on a thin copper plate with light sensitve silver iodide. They have a mirror-like appearance and the image itself was mirrored. They were usually inserted into a case or frame made of wood bound in leather or velvet and cost about one guinea in Australia, the equivalent of a week's wages. With the advent of the gold-rush and growing population came an increase in numbers of photographers both studio and travelling. The daguerreotype process was protected by patents and could only result in a single image from which no copies could be made. With new technology involving wet colloidion glass plate negatives and albumen paper prints of which multiple copies could be produced at significantly reduced cost, the dauguerreotype quickly fell out of favour. An accompanying note with the photo written by Edna Hill of 4/1 Bridge Street Eltham dated 4 June 1966 states: "Dear Mr Watson, I think the enclosed old time photograph will be of interest to you. It would have been taken about 1860. The two ladies are the wives of the original pioneers of the Hill family. The one in the cap was the wife of Henry Hill, the other of Isaac Hill. The children are those of Mrs Isaac Hill, and grandchildren to Henry Hill. The little girl on the left is Amelia, the baby Isaac, the second girl is Mary Jane, and the boy on the right is Bob Hill. They grew up tobe Uncles and Aunts of my late husband. I greatly appreciated a letter received a few months ago per Cr Pelling, from the Shillinglaw Cottage Committee. Yours sincerely, Edna Hill" Victorian birth registrations show Mary Jane Hill was born 1857 in Eltham (9879 / 1857) and Isaac Hill at Eltham in 1860 (1972/1860) NOTE: Mrs Isaac Hill was Ellen Fitzsimons (1834-1863), mother to Henry Hill. Mrs Georgina Hill, wife of Henry cannot be the lady in the cap as she was not born till 1864. Georgina Reynolds (1864-1927) married Henry Hill (1862-1948) in 1884. This lady has significant wrinkling of the face, especially around her mouth. It is possible that she is the mother of Mrs Isaac Hill (Ellen Fitzsimons) who was Isabella Fitzsimons (nee Ferguson).Early pioneer settlers of ElthamAntique daguerreotypes in hinged gold frame, glass encased in a small clam-shell box lined with padded red felt and with catchamelia hill, bob hill, early settlers, eltham, hill family, isaac hill, mary jane hill, mrs henry hill, mrs isaac hill, daguerreotype, georgina hill (nee reynolds), research (vic.), sepp, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, women, ellen hill (nee fitzsimons), isabella fitzsimons (nee ferguson)

This guillotine is a hand operated machine specifically designed to cut through multiple sheets of paper or card. It has a very heavy and sharp single blade knife mounted between vertical guides or runners. The main users of a machine like this is in by the printing and publication binding industry. Book binding companies use a guillotine to evenly trim the pages of a book after it has been bound. The way the guillotine is used is - paper or card is stacked squarely on the flat table and pushed firmly against the back guide - the handle below the table at the front of the machine is wound around, which brings the back guide forward, pushing the paper stack forward and positioning the centre of the stack below the vertical frame - the upper wheel is wound around, which brings the clamp and firmly in position on top of the paper, to hold it very firmly - the large wheel on the side of the machine is turned around to lower the long sharp blade down onto the pages and cut them through. The sharp edge of the blade is protected somewhat from becoming blunt; a block of wood sits in the table under the stack of paper An early model of a guillotine was patented in 1837 by Thirault, who built a model with a fixed blade. Guillotines similar in principal to this one were patented by Guillaume Massiquot in 1844 and 1852. Over the years many improvements have been made and operation has moved from man power to electricity. Oscar Friedheim Ltd. was the importer and wholesaler of a large range of machinery and equipment for the printing and bookbinding industry. He sold most of his equipment under his own name. On this guillotine or paper cutter he refers to the origin of the guillotine’s manufacture only as “German Manufacrure”. A reference book “Commercial Bookbinding: a description of the processes and the various machines used" by Geo. Stephen, 1910, recommends Oscar Friedheim, amongst others, for the supply of “reliable cutting machines for hand or power”. It also recommends Oscar Friedheim’s for a wide range of other printing machinery and processes. OSCAR FRIEDHEIM LIMITED, LONDON Oscar Friedheim Ltd. was established in 1884 and operated from Ludgate in London. The company was an importer and wholesale supplier in the 1880’s, offering machinery and equipment for the printing and packaging industry for the UK and Ireland. The company became incorporated in 1913. An advertisement of 1913 includes a telegraphic code plus two telephone numbers for Oscar Friedheim Ltd and invites readers to call at the Ludgate, London, showrooms to see the machines working. The company later became Friedheim International Ltd. The book titled “Friedheim, A Century of Service 1884-1984 by Roy Brewer, celebrates Oscar Friedheim’s achievements. Friedheim International currently operates from Hemel Hempstead, on the northern outskirts of London UK. It promotes itself as “… the leading supplier of finishing, converting and packaging machinery to the printing, graphic arts, and highly varied packaging industries in the UK and Ireland. The company’s policy is simple – “employ the best people, work with the best equipment manufacturers in the world, and treat our customers as partners!” The company still sells guillotines. The guillotine is significant for its ability to represent aspects of the printing trade in Warrnambool and in a typical port town circa 1850 to 1910. It represents communication methods and processes used in the time before electrically powered equipment became common in industry.Guillotine (or paper cutter), hand operated. Metal framework with vertical guides, stand and metal mechanical parts including wheels and gears. Table with back guide; handle below front of table winds to move the back guide. A wheel at top of machine winds to adjust pressure of the clamp on the work on the table below it. The cutting blade fits between vertical guides; a timber insert in the table below the blade helps minimise the loss of sharpness of the blade. A handle on the side of the machine turns a large spoked wheel, which rotates a large gear, causing the blade to move up and down. Makers details are on a small oval plaque with embossed maker’s details is screwed onto main body. Maker is O Friedheim, London, and the machine is of German manufacture, circa late 1880’s.Maker’s plaque inscribed "O. FRIEDHEIM / London / German Manufacture"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, printing machinery, printer’s guillotine, paper guillotine, paper cutter machine, oscar friedheim ltd london, friedheim international ltd, bookbinding industry, printing industry

This apron is one of several linen and clothing items that were made and belonged to Mrs. Eliza Towns and donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village. Eliza was born Eliza Gould in 1857 in South Melbourne (Emerald Hill) and in 1879 married Charles Towns. In the early 1880's they moved to Nhill in western Victoria and remained there for the rest of their married life. Charles was a jeweller and later became an accountant and for many years was involved with the Shire Council, the local show committee (A & P Society), the Hospital Committee and the Board of the local newspaper (the Nhill Free Press). They had three children and lived a life that would be regarded as comfortably "middle class". Eliza probably had a treadle sewing machine and would have made many of her own clothes - adding her own handmade embroidered or crocheted decorative trim. In March 1915 Eliza travelled to San Francisco to visit her son, James. She went by train to Melbourne ("a pleasant journey on the up express') and the next day caught the express train to Sydney. She noted in her letters home that a " number of young men were going to Sydney to enlist but they had to stop in the corridors most of the way as there was no room for them to sit down". She spent the night on the train and arrived in Sydney the next morning and on the following day she boarded the R.M.S. "Moana" (a steamer which took about twenty-four days to reach San Francisco). She returned from Vancouver about five months later on board the "Manuka". It is very likely Eliza took this "Travelling Apron" with her on her travels. Eliza was travelling by herself and had no one to help her with her dress or her hair. "Travelling Aprons" (also known as Toilet Aprons or Tourist Aprons) were designed with different sized pockets for holding a lady's toiletries - hairbrush, hair pins, comb and sometimes even soap and a powder puff. This allowed the owner, when travelling and getting dressed in small places such as an overnight train compartment or a ship's cabin, to have all her requirements at hand without needing to search for them or have them roll onto the floor. Some of the pockets are finished with buttoned flaps to keep the items in place and when not in use, the apron could be hung up or rolled up and put away. Articles about the "Traveller's Apron" appeared in numerous Women's columns in Australian newspapers in the early 20th century - often with instructions and sometimes a pattern. In the "Age" on Sat 5th October 1907 in a column titled "Feminine Facts and Fancies" the author wrote "No man can appreciate the difficulties of dressing in a "wobbly" train or trying to do one's hair while a ship is weathering a storm". A year earlier (Saturday 24th March 1906) in the same column, the author wrote "... you have to spend nights in a train... forever struggling to dress yourself in a wretched little lavatory. You know how your hairpins and combs jump all over the place ... a train is always at its liveliest when you're trying to do your hair. My travelling apron saved me many a rage."This item is an example of the needlework skills of women in the early 20th century - combining machine stitching with hand embroidery to personalise and embellish a practical domestic object. It is also an excellent (and rare) example of an early 20th century innovation that helped solve the difficulties of privacy and convenience that many women experienced at a time when travel was becoming more accessible to them. A half apron, made of ivory linen with two waist ties and seven pockets. Along the top are two smaller pockets with triangular, buttoned flaps labelled "Hairpins" and "Nailbrush" and one larger unlabelled pocket. Underneath are two larger pockets labelled "Brush & Comb" and "Work" and two unlabelled narrow pockets. The seams are machine stitched and the pockets are outlined with hand embroidered feather stitch. The labels on the pockets are embroidered in stem stitch."Hairpins" / "Nailbrush" / "Brush and Comb" / "Work"flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, nhill, eliza towns, apron, travelling apron, tourist apron, textiles, toilet apron, sewing, embroidery, travel, warrnambool, great ocean road, trains, ships, moana, manuka, feather stitch, stem stitch, fashion, handmade, clothing, charles towns, needlework

Clothing. Very fine cotton petticoat with a fitted bodice, and dropped waistline. Back opening fastened with six 1 cm diameter buttons - three are fabric covered - (possibly the original buttons) and three plastic ''pearl'' buttons. The square neckline is outlined with 2.5 cm deep cotton lace inserted with 1.5 cm wide satin ribbon tied in a bow at the centre back and front. A row of very fine cotton lace, 1.5 cm deep then edges the square neckline, and also the arm holes. The back bodice is shaped in six panels, and front bodice is shaped in three panels. Three panels of embroidered cotton lace extends from the front neckline to the bustline. Outer panels are 5.5 cm wide and 7 cm long, while centre panel is 11 cm long and 5.5 cm wide. Each of these panels is outlined with the 2 cm wide cotton lace. From the dropped waistline, a 2.5 cm wide cotton insertion lace is threaded with 1.5 cm wide satin ribbon. The skirt is lined with fine cotton, finished at the lower edge with a 5 cm wide gathered cotton frill,and an over- frill, 14 cm deep of spotted tulle, edged with a 1.5 cm band of cotton lace. The outer skirt is spotted tulle in four bands- separated by four 3.5 cm wide bands of floral patterned lace. The hemline is trimmed with an eleven cm deep band of floral lace with a lower scalloped edge. The under-skirt is made with nine gored panels, and has a 5 cm deep lightly gathered frill at the hemline.costume, female underwear, petticoat.

The early settlers of Victoria depended on horse drawn vehicles to farm, make roads and railways, deliver produce and transport people. Horse harnesses were an important requisite for all drivers and could be found wherever there were working horses. Horse Harnesses have played an essential role in different cultures throughout history. Simple, utilitarian horse harnesses made of leather straps and iron rings were being used in early China before AD 500 as well as ancient Greece and Rome, allowing horses to pull chariots and ploughs. The Greeks and Romans were the first to use a "horse collar" which distributed the weight of the harness evenly across the horse's chest rather than relying on a "throat harness" that could damage a horse's throat or choke them. During the medieval period, European horse harnesses became more elaborate and decorative. Variations of different horse harnesses were also found in Native American and Middle Eastern cultures. Horse Harnesses usually have four basic components which include - 1. Communication - the bridle, bit and reins allows the driver to communicate instructions and commands to the horse, guiding its movement and direction. 2. Draft - the collar, hame straps, hames, traces and chains enables the horse to draw and pull the load efficiently by distributing the weight and transferring the pulling force to the vehicle. 3. Stopping - the breeching band, pole straps and breast strap helps to control or stabilise the horse and vehicle when moving downhill or stopping. 4. Support - the back pad, backband, belly band and back saddle keep the harness in the correct position and proper alignment. This show harness was used by Mr. Andy Bourke when showing his Clydesdales at shows or demonstrations. Although a more modern example with decorative embellishments, it still has many essential components traditionally found in an everyday working horse harness. The original purpose of the "housen" for example, was to run rain or drizzle off the horse's neck when they had to work in wet conditions - it was laid flat for this purpose on the top of the collar. Nowadays it is purely for show and is often used to advertise a business or stud. Horse brasses and fly terrets were fastened to various parts of a horse's harness. In the early days they probably began as amulets to ward off evil and to bring good luck and continued to be used as a festive decoration. The heyday of horse brasses was between the years 1851 and 1900. Horse brasses are fastened to various parts of the harness with many of their designs being symbolic. The ornamentation on this harness (although not authentic horse brasses) are based on the horse brasses that were popular in the 19th century. This horse harness is a significant example of the equipment that was needed wherever heavy horses were being used - particularly in the early years of Victoria's settlement by white settlers. Harnesses such as this example were used with stage coaches, drays, farming equipment, delivery carts and personal transportation.A leather and metal horse harness used when showing a Clydesdale (or other breed of heavy horse). It is made up of a number of components. 1. Decorative leather cart saddle with two large cloth pads underneath (which have a scalloped leather and stud border), a raised leather pommel and a silver and red coloured metal back strap holder across the top. It has two symmetrical sets of ornamentation (silver hearts and circles) in the front and a wide strap or girth (with a maker's stamp reading "R. Mitchell Saddler") and buckle which attaches the saddle to the horse. 2. Pair of steel hames which are gently curved (to fit on a horse collar) and are topped with steel knobs. They have several steel rings and lugs (to hold straps and chains) and a "Made in England Warranted Steel" stamp. 3. Breeching harness which consists of a number of leather straps, chains and metal rings including a wide padded leather strap with a scalloped edge that sits on the back of the horse and a thick leather strap that goes around the hind quarters of a horse which is joined to the back strap with four shorter vertical straps and buckles. These straps feature silver and red patent leather trim and silver heart shaped ornamentation. The strap also features the maker's stamp of "R. Mitchell". 4. Decorative leather bridle with blinkers featuring the same silver and red patent leather trim on the cheek piece, brow band and throatlatch. It has a stainless steel "Liverpool Driving Bit" with a curb chain, a variety of decorative silver ornaments (rosettes, diamonds plus a heart and two circles) on each end of the forehead band, dropper and strap as well as a silver metal bell (sometimes known as a "fly terret" or "swinger") that sits on the headpiece of the bridle. 5. Leather "violin shaped" dropper (or hanger) with two silver rosette shaped ornaments and a stainless steel clip on the top 6. Stainless steel "Liverpool Driving Bit" with a straight mouthpiece which is ribbed on one side. It has three rein spots (spaces) and a curb chain. 7. Leather arch shaped "Housen" covered in black and red patent leather and decorated with silver studs (some spelling out F H) and bordered with a red fringe. It has a leather strap at the back and two leather loops on the front. 8. Leather padded backband (Australian style "Stallion Draught Roller") decorated with two groups of nine metal "horse brasses" or harness ornaments displaying horseshoe, starburst and horse head designs on blue, red and white striped webbing. The backband has three notched straps at each end, a buckle near the centre and the initial B stamped in two places underneath. 9. Bellyband made of leather and red, white and blue striped webbing. It has a set of three buckles at each end (which correspond with the notched straps of the backband). 10. Wide, thick leather strap which has a buckle and notches at each end. It also has the maker's stamp of "R. Mitchell Saddler". 11.One pair of long leather traces - each with a buckle and notched loop at one end, decorated with a small silver diamond shaped harness ornament. 12. Length of stainless steel heavy duty chain with two swivel connectors.Saddle - "R.MITCHELL / SADDLER" Hames - "MADE IN ENGLAND / WARRANTED / STEEL" "MADE IN ENGLAND / WARRANTED / unclear" Breeching Straps - "R. MITCHELL / MAKER / R. MITCHELL MAKER" Housen - "F H" Backband "B / B' Wide leather strap - "R. MITCHELL / SADDLER"flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, harness, horse harness, show harness, clydesdale horses, andy bourke, horse drawn cart, housen, bridle, hames, breeching straps, dropper, bit, liverpool bit, backband, harness ornamentation, bellyband, back saddle, fly terret

This gown, one of two similar items in the collection, belonged to one of the daughters of George Ward Cole, Miss Margaret Morison Ward Cole or Miss Agnes Bruce Ward Cole. George Ward Cole was an early member of the Victorian Parliament and the family featured prominently in Melbourne Society in their time. They established a substantial home known as “St Ninians” at 10 Miller Street in 1841. The family reportedly entertained Melbourne’s first Royal visitor the Duke Of Edinburgh, Queen Victoria’s second son, at St Ninians in 1867. In later years St Ninians was subsequently subdivided and later demolished.A black and mint green wool, velvet, lace and silk dress from circa 1882. The bodice features a wired, standing collar, finishing just under the chin and open at the front of the throat. On either side at the front of the throat it features long black lace ties with black jet bead fringe. The centre front of the dress from the neckline to the base of the skirt features an insert panel of mint green corded silk. The silk is gathered and the neckline and waist and overlaid a panel of gathered lacy net. Inserted into the seam at either side of this panel at the waist are two velvet ties. The dress secures closed with eight black buttons and one hook and eye down the right side of the mint panel to mid thigh. The edges of the collar and black front panels are finished with a looped ribbon trim. The remainder of the dress is made of a black wool fabric woven a checkered pattern of larger and looser threads and smaller and tighter threads creating a seersucker like pattern. The bodice features a natural shoulder line and an Amadis sleeve of full cut gathered to the bodice at the shoulder and finishing at the elbow with a large black lace flounce. The front panels of the dress are flat and shaped neatly to the body from neck to hip line and gently out to create the Victorian silhouette. On the back of each shoulder the dress features a leaf like, small jet beaded embellishment with multiple long loops of jet beads falling down the back to the waist. Underneath this embellishment is a pleated black ribbon that runs from the shoulder to the back of the pelvis. Over the pelvis are another two jet beaded embellishments of a floral design with two tassels. The skirt is full and pleated in under this embellishment and fulls to the floor with a small train. The base of the dress is finished with a ruched band of the main dress fabric.st ninians, george ward cole, visiting gown, brighton, miss margaret morison ward cole, miss agnes bruce ward cole, 1880s