The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamShows the relationship of the the Shire of Eltham office which was built on the original location of Shillinglaw Cottage and relocated to Panther Place.The Shillinglaw trees visible, still in their original location, in front of the Shire offices. Photo album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library, shillinglaw cottage

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library, shillinglaw cottage

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library, shillinglaw cottage

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Library Development The library building has been designed to reflect its parkland setting. External features include: the roof which includes interesting aspects when viewed from Main Road; verandahs which provide ramp access and give a sheltered entrance to the building; walls which feature locally-made mudbricks, conventional bricks and copper panels; and space for an outdoor courtyard/reading area which will be developed later. Internally there are a number of features. The building includes a foyer with a fireplace suitable for displays including artwork; a community multi-purpose room suitable for meetings or functions and an outdoor cafeteria. The ceilings are lined with Victorian Ash. The shapes for the ceiling give a free flowing form to the building. Brush Box has been used for the circulation and information desks. The tree trunk columns are Grey lronbark from New South Wales. Arches and and various-shaped windows add interest to the internal structure. The carpet design reflects the Eltham environment and compliments the natural colours and timbers used in the building. Tiles by artist Felix Bosari feature in the building and additional art by local artists will be added externally and internally to the building. The library floor area is approximately 1200 sq metres and houses a collection of 50,000 items. The community multi-purpose room, foyer and community display area totals approximately 300 sq metres. These areas will be available to the community for such events a~ meetings, displays, classes, functions and art exhibitions. The Toy Library and Adult Literacy Group will also be based in the new complex. The value of works/services and fittings/ furniture is $3,040,000 Project Team Project Director: John Stamp, Director - Major Projects Project Manager: Noel Mcinnes, Noel Mcinnes Project Management Pty Ltd Architects: Gregory Burgess and Peter Ryan, Gregory Burgess Pty Ltd Site Foreman - Building Works: John Mantel Site Foreman - Site Works and Foundations: Steven White, Shire of Eltham Surveyor: Gregory Slater, Shire of Eltham Builder: Shire of ElthamPhoto album of the new Eltham Library presented to the Society by Cr R.J. Manuell, Chairperson Eltham Library Redevelopment Special Committee, 28 Nov 1994 in recognition of the efforts and contribution made by the Shire of Eltham Historical Society to the construction of the Eltham Library complex.Black faux leather album cover, black pages, brass corners and screws, 10 page inserts separated by tissue, 12 photos and information sheets stuck to pages.eltham, eltham library, panther place, shire of eltham, yarra plenty regional library

Timetable published by the Electric Supply Co of Victoria (ESCo) for Ballarat Tramways - dated 1/10/1914 to 30/4/1915. Provides times for each route, ticket prices, school tickets, fare box routes, fares, transfer tickets, and route colours both for day and night. Also has notes to passengers and places of interest for each route. Has contact phone numbers for the Company. Manager Mr Pringle. See item 9131 for a 1915 Winter timetable. Has many adverts - from the front page: A M Palmer Chemist Hodgson - optical Snows - department store Summerscales - postcards W E Thomas - Dentist L Casper - optician E Jermyn - feed merchant Standsfield & Smith - Decorators Briant's Red shop tea rooms A E White - tailor Ellingsen & Co - furniture Southern Cross Hotel H P Stevens & Co - fur coats Frank Williams - painter and decorator Longhurst's bread factory G Buchanan - metal ceilings Robert Hutchinson - electrical engineer and contractor G Ludbrook - furnishing undertaker A Cant - plumber, gasfitter and ironmonger Huddart Parker and Howard Smith coal merchants Precision Big 4 - motor cycles and bicycles H W Channing - Tram drivers' training school T H Richards - butcher C Ellis - furniture exchange Levecke's motor garage Frank Penhalluriack - electrical work Nankervis - store Taffy King Fred A Reed - tobacconist F & J W Gower - builder E E Hobson - decorator Walter Cornell - liver pills Irvines - wines G Warner - Ironmonger J A Reynolds - Wall papers W J Robson - leadlights Porter's - boots and shoes Holman & Fiscalini - stables and motor garage Butler & Co - blinds Mrs Kerby - clothing reseller Rose Cosmetic - H Binzer & Co Mrs Busfield - laundry Mrs J H Dogson - registry office for servants B G Tucker's Water Cure Electric Supply Co Rowlands drinks On the bottom of most pages - Sidar products and on the top the Coliseum Picture Palace. Demonstrates and ESCo timetable and provides information about fare systems and local businesses.Time table - booklet - 40 pages + brown light card covers centre stapled with tabbed or cut pages.tramways, ballarat, timetables, esco, advertisements, fares, tickets, fare boxes

Artist Leonard French said of this work:- "The centre panel suggests a tree of knowledge growing out of a jewelled fish (a spiritual accompaniment is intended), and from the tree birds rise, spreading out through the cloud shapes of the other panels. Hands and figures rise from the earth, reaching for the birds. The left hand panel depicts the journey of figures in a boat, the seeking after or journeying to the source of knowledge. The far right hand panel is the garden, figures in a primitive state, a sort of evolution of figures from a primitive garden (the first garden). Visualization, verbalization, music and dance are tools we have to express a concept. The analysis of an art work is a delicate and sensitive task and great harm can be done in an attempt to become verbal about a form which relies upon elements peculiar to itself for intrinsic meaning." Leonard FRENCH (OBE) (08 October 1928 - 10 January 2017) Born Brunswick, Victoria Died Heathcote, Victoria Known for his enormous dalle de verre (concrete and slab glass) ceiling in the Great Hall of the National Gallery of Victoria Leonard French produced a large body of work throughout his lifetime. French won the Sulman Prize in 1960, and the Blake Prize for Religious Art in 1963 and in 1980. He was also awarded a Harkness Fellowship in 1965. In the Queen's Birthday Honours of June 1968 he was appointed an Officer of the Order of the British Empire. In early 1959 Leonard French was commissioned by the Ballarat Teachers' College students to paint a mural. The students were responsible for the payment of the work. When unveiled artist George Bush remarked: "the 1959 students have left something not just to 'oooh' and 'ah' at, but something that is thought provoking, arresting and interesting. This work of art keeps something in reserve and draws you to search for deeper meaning behind the splendour of colour. This mural is not one which will not fade the interest of its beholders, but one which will provide intrigue for generations to come." Originally French intended the mural to be five panels, each entitled (left to right) 'the Journey', 'Man', 'The Tree', 'The Earth', 'The Garden'. The finished mural was reduced to four panels with the central tree incorporated into the panels 'Earth' and 'Man'. Ballarat Teachers' College Art lecturer Arch Cuthbertson explained that the artist:- "Aims at evoking emotional flashed, opening doors to simultaneous thinking and feeling. To accomplish this he juxtaposes the threads of conscious and unconscious images, thus effecting a tapestry that allows many points of reference to converge upon his singular images. Whether the colours offer metaphysical sensations or convey a literal meaning will depend upon the breadth and depth of the viewer's experience. Similarly with the bird - we might well ask is it a defiance of gravity, a metaphysical ascension or the elusive winged knowledge? Again the answer could well be that these three associations have a singular purpose. " This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 2000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.A four panel mural by Leonard French, commissioned and gifted by the Ballarat Teachers' College Student in 1959. Art lecturer Arch Cuthbertson was highly involved in this commission. Artist Charles Bush unveiled the mural at the Ballarat Teachers' College in Gillies Street, Ballarat. At that time he said:- "You have left behind you on object which will be full of interest to a lot of people. A work of art, so long as it is in existence, is constantly under review. Most of the good things that keep on going are usually to the uninitiated a little worrying. Many of you will be worried by this, because it does not make its message immediately clear. But come back and assess it again and again." art, leonard french, french, artwork, mural, ballarat teachers' college, class of 1959

This is a part of the A.J. Roddy Collection. The Family have glued a piece on the envelope which says, "Dad's Discharge Paper/ Royal Irish Rifles & Royal Flying Corps./ 7-1-1915 to Dec 1921. Copy a the Discharge paper of Pte2 James Roddy, Royal Irish Rifles & Royal Flying Corps RAF 7-1-1915 to Dec 1921 and CoverCover: Cover for Certificates/ and other Documents of a/ soldier on Demobilization or Transfer to the Reseve/ or Discharge.// Front of Paper: Top right: Form 2067/ Royal Air Force/ Serial No/ Character Certificate of No 133458/ Rank Pte2 Name Roddy James/ Royal Flying Corp (Regiment (crossed out))/ Born in the Parish of / near the Town of South in the / County of ......... on the / Date 11.7.1897/ Trade as stated by him on Enlistment Postman/ 2 parallel lines/ * Description on Leaving the Colours/ Heoght 5ft 6in. Identification Marks:-/ Complexion Fresh Scar above 1st Lumbar/ Eyes Grey. Vertibrae/ Hair Brown/ Signature of Soldier/ (was signed J. Roddy/ * To prevent impersonation/ In the event of any doubt arising as to the bona fidis of the/ bearer, the above description and signature should be carefully compared with present appearance and hand writing. (16:957) WT 3183C/1875 5m.17/18. P&P Ltd/ Photostat copy of Original Opening the paper inside: The character here given is based on continous records of the holder's conduct and / employment throughout his Military Career./ This is to Certify that No 133458 Rank Pte2 Name Roddy James/ has served with the colours in the Royal Irish Rifles & Royal Flying Corps for 3 83/365 years. 1915-18/ Serving in the Royal Flying Corps as a Batman, and during/ the whole of this period carrying out his duites in a/ satisfactory manner/ There is no record of him having incurred any service/ entries on his conduct sheet during this period./ for service in the R.A.F. see form 280/ Signature ..... Squadron Leader/ Date December 1921 Commanding R.A.F. Records Ruislip/ If further particulars as to his character and record of service are required within three years of above date, apply to/ where he is registered for Civil Employment,/ afterwards to the Officer in Charge of Records./ * This space is intended to be filled in by any organisation which has registered the man's name and is prepared to/ supply further information.// Back of paper: Particulars of Service/ Date of Enlistement 7.1.15/ Preceeded on Furlough pending Transfer to the Army/ Reserve, or Discharge on... passed medically fit for the Army Reserve on/ Due for Final Discharge on../ Cause of Transfer or Discharge - Transferred to R.A.F. 1-4-18. under the provisions of the/ Air Force (Constitution) Act Oct. 1917./ Campaigns, Medals and Decorations/ France from 15.6.15 to 3.12.16/ 1914-15 Star, British War & Victory/ Medals. /Education and other Certificates and dates/corps, ww1, collection, royal, a j, roddy, flying, irish, rifles, pte2, james, 1915

This wooden juggling club or exercise club may also be referred to as a juggling pin. It is very similar in shape to a bowling pin or an Indian club. It dates approximately to the early 20th century. It may have been used as one of a pair for gymnastics or exercise, or part of a larger set used by a juggler for entertainment in a circus or carnival. At some time it may have been used with a ball or disc as part of a Skittles or bowling game set. The historical collection of Federation University Australia, Victoria, includes a very similar but slightly shorter club, labelled ‘timber skittle”, as can be seen in their photograph. Another example of very similar-shaped, same-sized clubs can be seen in the collection of Nobelius Heritage Park and Emerald Museum, Emerald, Victoria. JUGGLING Jugglers entertain audiences with their tricks and routines at events such as circuses, amusement parks, parties, shows on television or theatre, schools and parties. Juggles also compete at International Championships to obtain world records, performing as individuals or in groups or teams. Contemporary champion juggler David Cain performs a Juggling History Show that both entertains and educates his audience. His routines date from the early 1600s to the 20th century. He uses a wide variety of equipment in his acts including juggling clubs. EXERCISE Exercise clubs or Indian clubs were used in 19th century Victorian times as part of exercise or strengthening programs when they were swung in certain patterns and movements. Even in the early 20th century workplace a few minutes of Indian club swinging was common practice for the relief of tension. A video clip of an American school room in 1904 shows a group of boys and girls skilfully wielding clubs in an exercise sequence (see ‘Links” section). The 1904 and 1932 Olympic Games had an event called Club Swinging. Rhythmic gymnastics was added to the Olympic Program at the L.A. Games in 1984 where competitors use apparatus such as rope, hoop, ball, ribbon and clubs. The clubs come in a variety of weights and heights and have been used from the mid-1800s until around the 1930s in schools and military institutions. They are decorated in a variety of patterns and colours and some have feature lines or scored rings on them. This juggling club is significant for its association with education, entertainment and sport in the late 19th and early 20th century.Wooden juggling club (or pin, skittle or Indian club). Vintage, bottle-shaped club with a flat, slightly concave, base. Its turned, solid timber body tapers out from the base then in again to a very narrow handle with a round knob joined onto the top. Two concentric feature lines are scored into the wider part of club. It was possibly used in exercise, gymnastics or as a skittle. Sections of the club have two brown painted stripes; paint on the lower strip has been worn off at the base . There are remnants of white paint in two areas, possibly the remains of a maker’s name or decoration. There also appears to be an inscription stamped into the wooden handle but this is illegible. Late 19th to early 20th century.Remnants of what appears to be stamped lettering and painted labelling.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, wooden skittle, entertainment, bowling skittle, wooden juggling pin, wooden juggling club, wooden exercise club, indian club, exercise club, club swinging, rhythmic gymnastics, sport equipment, juggling equipment, wooden club

Timetable published by the Electric Supply Co of Victoria (ESCo) for Ballarat Tramways - dated 1/5/1915 to 30/9/1915 - winter. Provides times for each route, ticket prices, school tickets, issue and use of tokens, fares, transfer tickets, and route colours both for day and night. Also has notes to passengers and places of interest for each route. Has contact phone numbers for the Company. Manager Mr Pringle. See item 9132 for a 1914 Summer timetable. Has many adverts - from the front page: A M Palmer Chemist Hodgson - optical Snows - department store ESCo - show room in Sturt St L Casper - optician E Jermyn - feed merchant Standsfield & Smith - Decorators Briant's Red shop tea rooms A E White - tailor Ellingsen & Co - furniture Southern Cross Hotel H P Stevens & Co - fur coats Frank Williams - painter and decorator Longhurst's bread factory G Buchanan - metal ceilings Robert Hutchinson - electrical engineer and contractor G Ludbrook - furnishing undertaker A Cant - plumber, gasfitter and ironmonger Huddart Parker and Howard Smith coal merchants Precision Big 4 - motor cycles and bicycles H W Channing - Tram drivers' training school T H Richards - butcher C Ellis - furniture exchange Levecke's motor garage Frank Penhalluriack - electrical work Nankervis - store Taffy King Fred A Reed - tobacconist F & J W Gower - builder E E Hobson - decorator Walter Cornell - liver pills Irvines - wines G Warner - Ironmonger J A Reynolds - Wall papers ESCo Electric lighting Holman & Fiscalini - stables and motor garage Butler & Co - blinds Mrs Kerby - clothing reseller Rose Cosmetic - H Binzer & Co Mrs Busfield - laundry Mrs J H Dogson - registry office for servants Summerscales - stationary and postcards W J Robson - glass Porter's Boots and Shoes B G Tucker's Water Cure Electric Supply Co Rowlands drinks On the bottom of most pages - Sidar products and on the top the Coliseum Picture Palace. Demonstrates and ESCo timetable and provides information about fare systems and local businesses.Time table - booklet - 40 pages + green light card covers centre stapled with tabbed or cut pages.tramways, ballarat, timetables, esco, advertisements, fares, tickets, tokens

About the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games donor Doug Pleasance wrote- During the 1980s the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of Controller, Technical Marketing, where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the Product Marketing Group which exploited the traditional high profile approach of marketing wool's superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. The 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games saw an evolutionary change in designer selection. A Declaration of Interest Form was communicated to over forty potential designers. The task and especially tight timelines that were involved deterred many aspirants, however, there remained eight designers with the potential we were seeking. These eight designers were paid $3,000 per submission and the winning designer, Wendy Powitt, was paid $15,000. For the first time the judging panel included two athletes, one male swimmer and one female basketballer, their influence was pivotal. The ensemble consisted of three elements- 1. The Official Uniform which was used for travel and all official functions. This included: a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones, pure wool olive-green faille fabric by Foster Valley, cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, printed wool tie by TD Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 2. Opening Ceremony Uniform a lightweight wool fabric printed with floral designs that had been inspired by the work of Australian artist Margaret Preston. This included: Lightweight W/PE shorts by Fletcher Jones in Foster Valley Fabric, socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 3. Village Clothing was designed to be highly visible garments to make it easy to spot the Aussie and helped to contribute to good team spirit. This included: A pure wool shirt featuring blocks of contrasting colours, and a newly developed stretch 50:50 wool/cotton fabric by Bradmill was made into shorts and jeans by Fletcher Jones.The shirt is sleeveless and in majority cream coloured. Around the hem, buttons and across the front of the shoulders is an appliqued floral design of Australian flowers and leaves inspired by the designs of artist Margaret Preston. The appliqued pattern continues around the bottom hem but not over the shoulders of the shirt.1992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, artwork, drawing, uniform

About the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games donor Doug Pleasance wrote- During the 1980's the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of Controller, Technical Marketing where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the Product Marketing Group which exploited the traditional high profile approach of marketing wool;s superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. The 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games saw an evolutionary change in designer selection. A Declaration of Interest Form was communicated to over forty potential designers. The task and especially tight timelines that were involved deterred many aspirants, however, there remained eight designers with the potential we were seeking. These eight designers were paid $3,000 per submission and the winning designer, Wendy Powitt, was paid $15,000. For the first time the judging panel included two athletes, one male swimmer and one female basketballer, their influence was pivotal. The ensemble consisted of three elements- 1. The Official Uniform which was used for travel and all official functions. This included: a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones, pure wool olive-green faille fabric by Foster Valley, cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, printed wool tie by TD Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 2. Opening Ceremony Uniform a lightweight wool fabric printed with floral designs that had been inspired by the work of Australian artist Margaret Preston. This included: Lightweight W/PE shorts by Fletcher Jones in Foster Valley Fabric, socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 3. Village Clothing was designed to be highly visible garments to make it easy to spot the Aussie and helped to contribute to good team spirit. This included: A pure wool shirt featuring blocks of contrasting colours, and a newly developed stretch 50:50 wool/cotton fabric by Bradmill was made into shorts and jeans by Fletcher Jones.8124.1 - The blouse is cream with an Australian floral design inspired by the work of artist Margaret Preston. The blouse has a scoop neck, cream buttons and small triangular cut outs on the sleeves. The shoulder seam runs to the points of the triangle and another across the back of the shoulders to create a rounded design. 8124.2 - Floral print fabric sample, this sample is cut in the shape of the front panel of the blouse but is unsewn. 8124.3 - Floral fabric sample. 8124.4 - Floral fabric sample. 8124.5 - Floral fabric sample.BARCELONA 19921992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, uniform

About the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games donor Doug Pleasance wrote- During the 1980's the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of Controller, Technical Marketing where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the Product Marketing Group which exploited the traditional high profile approach of marketing wool;s superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. The 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games saw an evolutionary change in designer selection. A Declaration of Interest Form was communicated to over forty potential designers. The task and especially tight timelines that were involved deterred many aspirants, however, there remained eight designers with the potential we were seeking. These eight designers were paid $3,000 per submission and the winning designer, Wendy Powitt, was paid $15,000. For the first time the judging panel included two athletes, one male swimmer and one female basketballer, their influence was pivotal. The ensemble consisted of three elements- 1. The Official Uniform which was used for travel and all official functions. This included: a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones, pure wool olive-green faille fabric by Foster Valley, cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, printed wool tie by TD Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 2. Opening Ceremony Uniform a lightweight wool fabric printed with floral designs that had been inspired by the work of Australian artist Margaret Preston. This included: Lightweight W/PE shorts by Fletcher Jones in Foster Valley Fabric, socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 3. Village Clothing was designed to be highly visible garments to make it easy to spot the Aussie and helped to contribute to good team spirit. This included: A pure wool shirt featuring blocks of contrasting colours, and a newly developed stretch 50:50 wool/cotton fabric by Bradmill was made into shorts and jeans by Fletcher Jones.A long sleeve cream coloured dress shirt with a detachable printed neck tie. The neck tie is decorated in an Australian floral design inspired by the artist Margaret Preston. The shirt has two breast pockets and double sets of cream buttons. The rear of the shirt is unadorned. 8124.4 - Floral fabric sample. 8124.5 - Floral fabric sample.BARCELONA 19921992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, uniform

About the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games donor Doug Pleasance wrote- During the 1980's the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of Controller, Technical Marketing where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the Product Marketing Group which exploited the traditional high profile approach of marketing wool;s superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. The 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games saw an evolutionary change in designer selection. A Declaration of Interest Form was communicated to over forty potential designers. The task and especially tight timelines that were involved deterred many aspirants, however, there remained eight designers with the potential we were seeking. These eight designers were paid $3,000 per submission and the winning designer, Wendy Powitt, was paid $15,000. For the first time the judging panel included two athletes, one male swimmer and one female basketballer, their influence was pivotal. The ensemble consisted of three elements- 1. The Official Uniform which was used for travel and all official functions. This included: a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones, pure wool olive-green faille fabric by Foster Valley, cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, printed wool tie by TD Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 2. Opening Ceremony Uniform a lightweight wool fabric printed with floral designs that had been inspired by the work of Australian artist Margaret Preston. This included: Lightweight W/PE shorts by Fletcher Jones in Foster Valley Fabric, socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 3. Village Clothing was designed to be highly visible garments to make it easy to  spot the Aussie and helped to contribute to good team spirit. This included: A pure wool shirt featuring blocks of contrasting colours, and a newly developed stretch 50:50 wool/cotton fabric by Bradmill was made into shorts and jeans by Fletcher Jones.Olive green knit vest with gold buttons. On the left breast is the Australian emblem with the Olympic rings and "Barcelona 1992" underneath it.BARCELONA 19921992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, uniform

About the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games donor Doug Pleasance wrote- During the 1980's the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of Controller, Technical Marketing where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the Product Marketing Group which exploited the traditional high profile approach of marketing wool;s superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. The 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games saw an evolutionary change in designer selection. A Declaration of Interest Form was communicated to over forty potential designers. The task and especially tight timelines that were involved deterred many aspirants, however, there remained eight designers with the potential we were seeking. These eight designers were paid $3,000 per submission and the winning designer, Wendy Powitt, was paid $15,000. For the first time the judging panel included two athletes, one male swimmer and one female basketballer, their influence was pivotal. The ensemble consisted of three elements- 1. The Official Uniform which was used for travel and all official functions. This included: a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones, pure wool olive-green faille fabric by Foster Valley, cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, printed wool tie by TD Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 2. Opening Ceremony Uniform a lightweight wool fabric printed with floral designs that had been inspired by the work of Australian artist Margaret Preston. This included: Lightweight W/PE shorts by Fletcher Jones in Foster Valley Fabric, socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 3. Village Clothing was designed to be highly visible garments to make it easy to  spot the Aussie and helped to contribute to good team spirit. This included: A pure wool shirt featuring blocks of contrasting colours, and a newly developed stretch 50:50 wool/cotton fabric by Bradmill was made into shorts and jeans by Fletcher Jones.Olive green knit vest with gold toned buttons. On the left breast is the Australian emblem with the Olympic rings and "Barcelona 1992" underneath it. The buttons are textured with lines.BARCELONA 19921992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, uniform

About the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games donor Doug Pleasance wrote- During the 1980's the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of Controller, Technical Marketing where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the Product Marketing Group which exploited the traditional high profile approach of marketing wool;s superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. The 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games saw an evolutionary change in designer selection. A Declaration of Interest Form was communicated to over forty potential designers. The task and especially tight timelines that were involved deterred many aspirants, however, there remained eight designers with the potential we were seeking. These eight designers were paid $3,000 per submission and the winning designer, Wendy Powitt, was paid $15,000. For the first time the judging panel included two athletes, one male swimmer and one female basketballer, their influence was pivotal. The ensemble consisted of three elements- 1. The Official Uniform which was used for travel and all official functions. This included: a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones, pure wool olive-green faille fabric by Foster Valley, cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, printed wool tie by TD Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 2. Opening Ceremony Uniform a lightweight wool fabric printed with floral designs that had been inspired by the work of Australian artist Margaret Preston. This included: Lightweight W/PE shorts by Fletcher Jones in Foster Valley Fabric, socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 3. Village Clothing was designed to be highly visible garments to make it easy to  spot the Aussie and helped to contribute to good team spirit. This included: A pure wool shirt featuring blocks of contrasting colours, and a newly developed stretch 50:50 wool/cotton fabric by Bradmill was made into shorts and jeans by Fletcher Jones.Olive green vest with two pocket decorations on the lower front of the vest. Underneath the pocket is the Australian emblem, below which are the Olympic rings and the inscription "BARCELONA 1992."BARCELONA 19921992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, uniform