Carved wooden plate depicting a happy event - a baby. Father and Mother are looking at the baby in the beautifully decorated cradle, with sign IHS and flowers at the head end. In the background is a kmečka peč - a huge heart for bread making, cooking and warming up.IHSslovenian association melbourne, carved wooden plate, slovenian folk art, wooden cradle

This item was donated as a display item for the Slab Hut (Orbost Information Centre). Quadruple silverplate items were four times as heavily plated with silver as standard items. Quadruple plate hollowware was some of the highest quality made during the latter part of the 19th century.This item clearly has an aesthetic significance as silver cake baskets were a common sight in upper-class households in the 18th and early 19th centuries.A silver plated cake plate on a pedestal with a handle. It has a pattern of flowers and birds etched into the top of the plate.SIMPSON HALL MILLER & Co. Quadruple platesilver-plate cake-stand tableware domestic

Cast Aluminium Zinc?? alloy? Step plate for the use on tramcar steps - with raised "dimples" to provide a non slip surface. Has not be drilled with the holes for positioning the tramcar. one has number 758 on rear, the second 3758. Two number held.trams, tramways, tramcar component, preston workshops, castings, tram 829

Set of two digital images, scanned from colour prints taken on the BTM Tramcar showcase of: .1 - Andrew Mitchell and Matt Grindrod .2 - Carl Mahoney and Chris Phillips Photos by Steven Altham with trams 14 and 40. The "Trams1" - plate - the photographers? trams, tramways, btm, events, museum operations, tram 14, tram 40

Letter - A4 sheet which has been laminated, address to Ron Scholten, from the Premier of Victoria, titled "Tram Depot Commutative Plate and Glass", thanking Ron for the item that celebrated the centenary of the Malvern Tram Depot in 2010. Signed by John Brumby as Premier.trams, tramways, pmtt, centenary, malvern depot, victorian government

Hand-painted Irish Belleek desert plate one of a set of six. 1st period black mark to underside with overglaze printed armorial for Bishop Moore of Ballarat on facing side.

This white oval plate with a dainty green border and self-pattern was made by the famous ceramics manufacturer Johnson Brothers of England. The pattern was patented on April 15th 1902. The serving plate is typical of dinnerware brought into Australia by migrants or importers of pottery and used in Australian households, giving many years of service. The Johnson Brothers firm was established by Frederick Johnson in 1883, at works in Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent. Frederick was later joined by his brothers Henry and Robert. The company's focus was to supply the export market. In 1968 the company became part of the Wedgewood Group. J. & G. Meakin Eagle Pottery temporarily took over the tableware division in 2000, and China took over all Johnson Bros. products in 2003. All of the Wedgewood Group was taken over by Fiskers in 2015, who discontinued the Johnson Brothers line of products. This serving plate is an example of domestic crockery used in Australia in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It originated from England and was made by a well-known ceramic manufacturer.Plate, oval, earthenware, scalloped edge with impressed pattern and border of small green leaves. Maker's mark and name is on reverse. Pattern was patented on April 15th 1902. Made by Johnson Bros. of England.Maker's Mark; [Crown symbol] above "JOHNSON BROS, ENGLAND" "PATD APRIL 15TH 1902"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, dinnerware, serving plate, johnson bros, english serving plate, green leaf border, oval plate, platter, chinaware, plateware, crockery, chine, porcelain, earthenware

Historic - Railway - Trespassers Prosecuted Plate Sign Historic - Railway - Trespassers Prosecuted Plate Sign Trespassers Prosecuted Plate Sign Oval shaped iron plate, painted black and white with large lettering. made of cast metal"Trespassers Prosecuted"puffing billy, trespassers prosecuted, plate

Cast iron numberplate (white on black background) mounted on wood, with a braille and a written nameplate which reads: "Presented by the Victorian Railways Commission to the R.V.I.B. School for Blind Railway Club. This number plate came from steam locomotive class A2 number 932, which hauled the 'Sydney Limited', the 'Overland' and mainline passenger trains during its 48 years of service that ended in 1961." Cast iron numberplate on wood royal victorian institute for the blind, rvib school

A set of crockery and cutlery was designed for the Australian Pavilion at Expo 1967 in Montreal Canada. Robin Boyd is thought to have designed the crockery. The cutlery design was by Stuart Devlin (item F131).Expo '67 Plateexpo 67, walsh st miscellaneous, robin boyd

Small decorative white plate featuring blue design of dragon and bird. Plate has a gold rim."PMA 0231/1"

The Geelong Handweavers and Spinners Guild Inc. entered "The Afternoon Tea Party" , designed by Val Ingeme, into the "Five Articles" Section of the Melbourne Sheep and Woolcraft Show c.1992. To qualify, the entry needed to be from a group of five people and be able to demonstrate a number of wool crafts in at least five different items. "The Afternoon Tea Party" was loaned to the NWM for display and was subsequently donated in 2003. This piece was designed and made by Val Ingeme from wool blend yarn, the plate from wool.agricultural shows textile art handicrafts knitting, geelong handweavers and spinners guild inc., felting, ingeme, mrs val, agricultural shows, textile art, handicrafts, knitting

Resting in the shade above the river after he has brought his cattle over it, O'Day is disturbed by voices, and rolls over to discover Montieth's daughter Elaine, and her aboriginal companion, Ruby, enjoying themselves in the river. This first encounter with Elaine makes an impression on the young manager that is to last throughout his lifetime.The album and images are significant because they document literature written by a prominent member of the Wodonga community. The presentation of this precis was supported by several significant district families and individuals.Ringer's River Album Coloured photo Plate 9 Resting in the shade above the river after he has brought his cattle over it, O'Day is disturbed by voices, and rolls over to discover Montieth's daughter Elaine, and her aboriginal companion, Ruby, enjoying themselves in the river. This first encounter with Elaine makes an impression on the young manager that is to last throughout his lifetime. Geni Dynon as Ruby and Joan Lehmann as Elaine.des martin, many a mile, ringer's river, northeast victoria stories

Back at the station MacLough announces to the assembled men that O'Day is now manager of Gooloora, with absolute power to hire, fire, buy, or sell, until he personally decides otherwise. He then has O'Day drive him to Overton where he repeats this to the bank manager, and arranges ample credit for the 20 year old executive before catching his train to the city.The album and images are significant because they document literature written by a prominent member of the Wodonga community. The presentation of this precis was supported by several significant district families and individuals.Ringer's River Album Coloured photo Plate 4 Back at the station MacLough announces to the assembled men that O'Day is now manager of Gooloora, with absolute power to hire, fire, buy, or sell, until he personally decides otherwise. He then has O'Day drive him to Overton where he repeats this to the bank manager, and arranges ample credit for the 20 year old executive before catching his train to the city.des martin, many a mile, ringer's river, northeast victoria stories

1813 Joseph Goddard was born in Market Harborough, Leicestershire in1830s and he always held a deep appreciation for beautiful silver. As a chemist and county analyst in Leicester, J. Goddard was frequently called upon to assay fine silver owned by England's wealthy families. Joseph Goddard's career altered when, after the discovery of electroplating, silver-plate became affordable to the average English home. The initial excitement of those who bought new silverware, however, soon turned to disappointment because the commonly used mercurial silver polish ate away the thin-layer of silver-plate. Joseph Goddard was sure that there must be a way to clean tarnished silverware without spoiling the finish then In 1839, and after many unsuccessful attempts, he finally perfected a silver polish that would safely remove tarnish from even the thinnest plated silver. Goddard's Non-Mercurial Plate Powder was introduced and the fame of Plate Powder quickly spread. Goddard's powder became so much in demand that it was soon marketed through other retailers. In 1877 Joseph Goddard died, and his son, also called Joseph, joined the business, followed, in turn, by his son and grand son. All of them expanded the business to produce a range of other polishes. 1885 Goddard's products won six gold medals for excellence at the American Exposition.An interesting history for an everyday item that even today is in use around the world and that we take for granted. The item gives a snapshot into how a product can be developed by shear perseverance by someone who believes there must be a better way of doing a particular task. However this example of Goddard's polishing powder container cannot be associated with an historical event, person or place.Container of Goddard's Plate Powder for polishing silverwareGoddard's Plate Powderflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, goddard's plate powder, goddards, silver polishing

The Geelong Handweavers and Spinners Guild Inc. entered "The Afternoon Tea Party" , designed by Val Ingeme, into the "Five Articles" Section of the Melbourne Sheep and Woolcraft Show c.1992. To qualify, the entry needed to be from a group of five people and be able to demonstrate a number of wool crafts in at least five different items. "The Afternoon Tea Party" was loaned to the NWM for display and was subsequently donated in 2003. This piece was designed and made by Val Ingeme from wool blend yarn, the plate mae by Les Clarke from wool.agricultural shows textile art handicrafts knitting, geelong handweavers and spinners guild inc., ingeme, mrs val, agricultural shows, textile art, handicrafts, knitting

The Geelong Handweavers and Spinners Guild Inc. entered "The Afternoon Tea Party" , designed by Val Ingeme, into the "Five Articles" Section of the Melbourne Sheep and Woolcraft Show c.1992. To qualify, the entry needed to be from a group of five people and be able to demonstrate a number of wool crafts in at least five different items. "The Afternoon Tea Party" was loaned to the NWM for display and was subsequently donated in 2003. This piece was designed by Janette Stonehouse and Val ingeme. the white bread and plate made by Janette Stonehouse and the brown bread by Val Ingeme.agricultural shows textile art handicrafts, geelong handweavers and spinners guild inc., felting, embroidery, ingeme, mrs val stonehouse, janette - geelong handweavers and spinners guild inc., agricultural shows, textile art, handicrafts

The third Michael Taffe to live at Hymettus cottage Ballarat was dux of his class at the local parish school, St Patrick's Drummond St in 1958 and 1959. These mass produced premium plates were a popular insertion for such awards from their inception in Europe in the eighteenth century until the late twentieth century. The library collection at Hymettus includes examples from several Catholic schools, Wesleyan Sabbath Schools, Ballarat's McBains' High School, Ballarat College, Fintona in Camberwell and this from the Christian Brothers school at Drummond St Ballarat.Printed Awarded to and infilled with Michael Taffe Dux Second Year 1959.bookplates, premium plates, ballarat, christian brothers, fintona, weslyan sabbath schools,

Presented to the ANZCA president David A Scott during the ANZCA ASM held in Brisbane, May 2017 by the College of Anaesthetists of Ireland. Silver plated, medium size plate with central inscription. Displayed on a wooden stand and presented in a blue wooden box[Presented to the / Australia and New Zealand College of Anaesthetists / on the occasion of their Silver Jubilee / from the / College of Anaesthetists of Ireland / May 2017]college of anaesthetists of ireland, asm, swatkins

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

Plate metal for mixing pharmaceuticalsflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

118 pages, illustratednon-fictionIt contains hundreds of silver marks making the process of identifying that special item you have found- quick and easy. A practical guide used by antique dealers world wide for yearsenglish silver, scottish silver, irish silver, hall-marks, makers marks

Plate metal, oval in shape, silver plated commemorative plate with decorated lip. Inscription on base "To the Glory of God in Memory of Peter Parnell and John Williams Lost at Sea February 1950". "SILCRAFT EPNSA1 MELB" on base.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

Small white china plate. Gold edged with floral design of roses and greeneery on front. Plate has slightly scalloped edge.Back-Lady Margaret -Fine bone Queen Anne, China, Englandplate domestic-items crockery porcelain queen- anne lady-margaret

This earthenware dinner plate fragment is very similar to others recovered from the wreck of the LOCH ARD. It is uncertain whether the plates were personal belongings or part of the cargo. The Asiatic Pheasant pattern is a transfer design and was the most popular design of the 19th century Victorian era. It is still being produced today. The design was produced as high quality, decorative dinnerware by the potters in the Staffordshire, England, area from the late 1830’s, but no-one is sure exactly who the original designer was. The industrial age made production of this design more affordable to the ordinary person who purchased and proudly displayed settings in their homes. The high demand for production resulted in loss of quality in both potting and design, particularly between 1860-1914 when the design reached its height of popularity, and the results were often a poor match for the earlier pieces’ quality and detail. Some engravers would make copies of the Asiatic Pheasant design (and other designs) onto copper plates and sell them to more than one pottery producer (the Copyright Act of 1842 was intended to control this very thing). Consequently the list of Makers’ Marks associated with the Asiatic Pheasant is well over 100. A single pottery factory could have several owners, all with their own Marks. These factors all make the dating of pieces difficult. Also, after 1891, pieces produced for the export were required to be stamped with “ENGLAND”, but pieces produced for the domestic market in England did not need this stamp, so early pieces and pieces produced for the domestic marked would all be without the “ENGLAND” stamp, confusing the matter. Over time the body shape of the pieces changed, the feathered, curved and fluted edges giving way to the simpler, cheaper oblong shapes. The LOCH ARD belonged to the famous Loch Line which sailed many ships from England to Australia. Built in Glasgow by Barclay, Curdle and Co. in 1873, the LOCH ARD was a three-masted square rigged iron sailing ship. The ship measured 262ft 7" (79.87m) in length, 38ft (11.58m) in width, 23ft (7m) in depth and had a gross tonnage of 1693 tons. The LOCH ARD's main mast measured a massive 150ft (45.7m) in height. LOCH ARD made three trips to Australia and one trip to Calcutta before its final voyage. LOCH ARD left England on March 2, 1878, under the command of Captain Gibbs, a newly married, 29 year old. She was bound for Melbourne with a crew of 37, plus 17 passengers and a load of cargo. The general cargo reflected the affluence of Melbourne at the time. On board were straw hats, umbrella, perfumes, clay pipes, pianos, clocks, confectionary, linen and candles, as well as a heavier load of railway irons, cement, lead and copper. There were items included that intended for display in the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880. The voyage to Port Phillip was long but uneventful. At 3am on June 1, 1878, Captain Gibbs was expecting to see land and the passengers were becoming excited as they prepared to view their new homeland in the early morning. But LOCH ARD was running into a fog which greatly reduced visibility. Captain Gibbs was becoming anxious as there was no sign of land or the Cape Otway lighthouse. At 4am the fog lifted. A man aloft announced that he could see breakers. The sheer cliffs of Victoria's west coast came into view, and Captain Gibbs realised that the ship was much closer to them than expected. He ordered as much sail to be set as time would permit and then attempted to steer the vessel out to sea. On coming head on into the wind, the ship lost momentum, the sails fell limp and LOCH ARD's bow swung back. Gibbs then ordered the anchors to be released in an attempt to hold its position. The anchors sank some 50 fathoms - but did not hold. By this time LOCH ARD was among the breakers and the tall cliffs of Mutton Bird Island rose behind the ship. Just half a mile from the coast, the ship's bow was suddenly pulled around by the anchor. The captain tried to tack out to sea, but the ship struck a reef at the base of Mutton Bird Island, near Port Campbell. Waves broke over the ship and the top deck was loosened from the hull. The masts and rigging came crashing down knocking passengers and crew overboard. When a lifeboat was finally launched, it crashed into the side of LOCH ARD and capsized. Tom Pearce, who had launched the boat, managed to cling to its overturned hull and shelter beneath it. He drifted out to sea and then on the flood tide came into what is now known as LOCH ARD Gorge. He swam to shore, bruised and dazed, and found a cave in which to shelter. Some of the crew stayed below deck to shelter from the falling rigging but drowned when the ship slipped off the reef into deeper water. Eva Carmichael had raced onto deck to find out what was happening only to be confronted by towering cliffs looming above the stricken ship. In all the chaos, Captain Gibbs grabbed Eva and said, "If you are saved Eva, let my dear wife know that I died like a sailor". That was the last Eva Carmichael saw of the captain. She was swept off the ship by a huge wave. Eva saw Tom Pearce on a small rocky beach and yelled to attract his attention. He dived in and swam to the exhausted woman and dragged her to shore. He took her to the cave and broke open case of brandy which had washed up on the beach. He opened a bottle to revive the unconscious woman. A few hours later Tom scaled a cliff in search of help. He followed hoof prints and came by chance upon two men from nearby Glenample Station three and a half miles away. In a state of exhaustion, he told the men of the tragedy. Tom returned to the gorge while the two men rode back to the station to get help. By the time they reached LOCH ARD Gorge, it was cold and dark. The two shipwreck survivors were taken to Glenample Station to recover. Eva stayed at the station for six weeks before returning to Ireland, this time by steamship. In Melbourne, Tom Pearce received a hero's welcome. He was presented with the first gold medal of the Royal Humane Society of Victoria and a £1000 cheque from the Victorian Government. Concerts were performed to honour the young man's bravery and to raise money for those who lost family in the LOCH ARD disaster. Of the 54 crew members and passengers on board, only two survived: the apprentice, Tom Pearce and the young woman passenger, Eva Carmichael, who lost all of her family in the tragedy. Ten days after the LOCH ARD tragedy, salvage rights to the wreck were sold at auction for £2,120. Cargo valued at £3,000 was salvaged and placed on the beach, but most washed back into the sea when another storm developed. The wreck of LOCH ARD still lies at the base of Mutton Bird Island. Much of the cargo has now been salvaged and some was washed up into what is now known as LOCH ARD Gorge. Cargo and artefacts have also been illegally salvaged over many years before protective legislation was introduced. One of the most unlikely pieces of cargo to have survived the shipwreck was a Minton porcelain peacock - one of only nine in the world. The peacock was destined for the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880. It had been well packed, which gave it adequate protection during the violent storm. Today, the Minton peacock can be seen at the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum in Warrnambool. From Australia's most dramatic shipwreck it has now become Australia's most valuable shipwreck artefact and is one of very few 'objects' on the Victorian State Heritage Register. [References: Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village information sheets and documents, http://www.asiaticpheasants.co.uk/index.html ]Flagstaff Hill’s collection of artefacts from LOCH ARD is significant for being one of the largest collections of artefacts from this shipwreck in Victoria. It is significant for its association with the shipwreck, which is on the Victorian Heritage Register (VHR S417). The collection is significant because of the relationship between the objects, as together they have a high potential to interpret the story of the LOCH ARD. The LOCH ARD collection is archaeologically significant as the remains of a large international passenger and cargo ship. The LOCH ARD collection is historically significant for representing aspects of Victoria’s shipping history and its potential to interpret sub-theme 1.5 of Victoria’s Framework of Historical Themes (living with natural processes). The collection is also historically significant for its association with the LOCH ARD, which was one of the worst and best known shipwrecks in Victoria’s history. Fragment of earthenware dinner plate recovered from the wreck of the Loch Ard. White glazed porcelain with blue Asiatic Pheasant design; this piece shows a pheasant. Sticker underneath has blue pen handwriting "L/58". Asiatic Pheasant Cartouche has Maker’s name (hard to decipher). Stamped underneath "0 1 2 8 1 (or 9)" Sticker underneath has blue pen handwriting "L/58". Asiatic Pheasant Cartouche has Maker’s name (hard to decipher). Stamped underneath "0 1 2 8 1 (or 9)" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, loch line, loch ard, captain gibbs, eva carmichael, tom pearce, glenample station, mutton bird island, loch ard gorge, dinner plate, asiatic pheasant, loch ard, plate

Historic - Railway - No Road Plate Sign Historic - Railway - No Road Plate Sign No Road Plate Sign Long rectangular plate that has been painted black and white with the words "no road" written across it. made of cast metal"No Road"puffing billy, sign, plate, no road sign

White porcelain plate with dark blue stripedomestic items, crockery