During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

During the recent refurbishment of our Local History Centre we came across a roll of 35mm colour negatives which at some stage had been exposed to water or similar resulting in the individual strips sticking to each other and the old paper film processing envelope. The situation looked hopeless but one of our members had an idea on how to salvage them; after all, we had nothing to lose. In the end we were able to separate the film strips and remove most of the paper residue except some of the adhesive. The film was scanned and even though suffering from various light issues; fading, possible exposure problems and a yellow shadow cast by the adhesive residue, the detail and historical information they contain has been rescued. These images are all centred around the intersection of Beard Street and Main Road Eltham. The Sun headline is "Poison Dumped in Murray" which has been dated to 20 Jan 1986 1986 'Poison in Murray cuts town water', The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), 20 January, p. 1. , viewed 30 Aug 2017, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article122421767A favourite milk bar of the time for local youth as evidenced from comments on the ThrowbackThursday Facebook Page post. Frame 01791-1 shows the auction sign for the land on the southeast corner of Main Road and Beard Street which was developed into a small group of shopsRoll of 35mm colour negative film, 4 stripsKodak CL 200 5093eltham, main road, beard street, eltham east service centre, bp service station

This image shows six older Chinese men standing in a row with two younger non-Chinese men outside a small wooden business or official building in the Beechworth region, circa 1900. The two non-Chinese men are wearing clothes of the period that indicate relative prosperity (such as three piece suits, top hats, and a pocket handkerchief), whereas most of the Chinese men are wearing Western-style working clothes of the era. One Chinese man at the far right of the image is wearing similar garments to the non-Chinese men, including a bowler hat and longer, more tailored suit jacket. Chinese miners were a significant cultural group in Beechworth's gold rush period. Carole Woods' history of Beechworth, 'A Titan's Field', details that there were approximately 60 Chinese people in the area in 1855, more than 1000 in 1856 and 4700 (a quarter of the population) in 1857, despite the introduction in 1855 of official policies such as additional taxes formulated by the Victorian Government to limit access by Chinese immigrants. Most Chinese miners in the region came from southern China and had formerly worked as merchants, mechanics, farmers and shop-keepers. Chinese people were subjected to a 'protectorate' system, ostensibly to minimise the potential for conflict with other groups; this system required Chinese people to live in designated 'hygienic' camps with paid Chinese headmen who supervised the village and enforced the protectorate's rules. Chinese people were required to purchase an annual protection ticket to fund this system. The protectorate system was abolished in 1861, before this image was taken in approximately 1900, but it may still provide insight into social stratification or relationships between and within cultural groups in Beechworth resulting from such practices. Lantern slides, sometimes called 'magic lantern' slides, are glass plates on which an image has been secured for the purpose of projection. Glass slides were etched or hand-painted for this purpose from the Eighteenth Century but the process became more popular and accessible to the public with the development of photographic-emulsion slides used with a 'Magic Lantern' device in the mid-Nineteenth Century. Photographic lantern slides comprise a double-negative emulsion layer (forming a positive image) between thin glass plates that are bound together. A number of processes existed to form and bind the emulsion layer to the base plate, including the albumen, wet plate collodion, gelatine dry plate and Woodburytype techniques. Lantern slides and magic lantern technologies are seen as foundational precursors to the development of modern photography and film-making techniques.This glass slide is significant because it provides insight into Beechworth's cultural and social relationships in the early Twentieth Century, in particular the experiences of Chinese miners. It is also an example of an early photographic and film-making technology in use in regional Victoria in the time period.Thin translucent sheet of glass with a circular image printed on the front and framed in a black backing. It is held together by metals strips to secure the edges of the slide.burke museum, beechworth, lantern slide, slide, glass slide, plate, burke museum collection, photograph, monochrome, magic lantern, indigo shire, north-east victoria, nineteenth century, 1900s, twentieth century, emulsion slides, chinese, chinese miners, protectorate system, protection licence, immigration, racism, classism, social groups, cultural groups, taxes, hygiene camps

This lantern slide shows the Ovens District Hospital (also called the Ovens Goldfields Hospital) in Beechworth in approximately 1900. The Hospital was built as part of a community push to develop the infrastructure needed for a permanent town in the 1850s. At the time there was no hospital located between Melbourne and the NSW town of Goulburn and it was recognised that the nature of mining and agricultural work predisposed people to serious injury. The community voted in 1853 to raise funds for a hospital and a voluntary committee elected from people who contributed £2 or more annually determined the organisation's management policies, which aimed to provide care for poor people at rates levied according to the person's means. Ongoing operations of the hospital were primarily supported by Government grants, however. The foundation stone was laid at a site in Church Street at a ceremony held 1st September 1856 which was attended by 2000 people using a locally crafted trowel with a tin ore handle and pure gold blade. The hospital, which was designed by J.H. Dobbyn, cost £2347. The hospital had two wards, a dispensary, apartments for a resident surgeon and the matron, an operating theatre and a board room. Further medical facilities including services to meet the cultural and health needs of the local Chinese community were later added, in addition to a Palladian-style cut-granite face built in 1862-63. It functioned as the region's primary hospital until surpassed by the Wangaratta Hospital in 1910. In the 1940s much of the building materials were salvaged and repurposed, with the exception of the facade which was restored in 1963 by the Beechworth Lions Club and still stands today. The facade featured on the covers of local history volume 'Beechworth: a Titan's Field' by Carole Woods and heritage-focused travel guide the 'Readers Digest Book of Historic Australian Towns'. Lantern slides, sometimes called 'magic lantern' slides, are glass plates on which an image has been secured for the purpose of projection. Glass slides were etched or hand-painted for this purpose from the Eighteenth Century but the process became more popular and accessible to the public with the development of photographic-emulsion slides used with a 'Magic Lantern' device in the mid-Nineteenth Century. Photographic lantern slides comprise a double-negative emulsion layer (forming a positive image) between thin glass plates that are bound together. A number of processes existed to form and bind the emulsion layer to the base plate, including the albumen, wet plate collodion, gelatine dry plate and woodburytype techniques. Lantern slides and magic lantern technologies are seen as foundational precursors to the development of modern photography and film-making techniques.This glass slide is significant because it provides insight into Beechworth's built environment and infrastructure in the early Twentieth Century, around the time of Australia's Federation. It is also an example of an early photographic and film-making technology in use in regional Victoria in the time period.Thin translucent sheet of glass with a round-edged square image printed on the front and framed in a black backing. It is held together by metal strips to secure the edges of the slide.Obverse: Y /burke museum, beechworth, lantern slide, slide, glass slide, plate, burke museum collection, photograph, monochrome, ovens district hospital, indigo shire, north-east victoria, hospital, palladian architecture, granite, community fundraising, community infrastructure, j.h. dobbyn, beechworth lions club, ovens goldfields hospital, chinese community

A razor strop such as this one was used to sharpen and polish straight-edged razors. This particular design has a swivel hook with a locking clip that allows for movement as the strop is being used. This strop is branded "Sherlite". On May 5th, 1922 the Commonwealth officially accepted and advertised the Trade Mark Application of Thomas Sherry of Victoria, for the Trade Mark of "Sherlite" to be used under the heading of "Leather, Skins unwrought and Wrought”. Thomas Sherry’s application was to use the word “Sherlite” for detachable soles made of rubberised leather. Straight razors and cut-throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880s and even today specialist shaving shops still sell straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap with a shaving brush that had boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade's edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas, or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools, and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are handheld. The person using the strop would draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish.Razor strop, leather, and metal. Sherlite brand, double straps: two straps of different grade leather joined at ends with metal fittings. Stropping faces; sharpening surface is stained red and finishing surface is stained black. One end has a padded, bulbous-shaped leather grip handle, the other end has a metal, swivel hook hanger. Inscriptions painted in gold on leather at the hook end.Razor strop, leather and metal. Sherlite brand, double straps: two straps of different grade leather joined at ends with metal fittings. Stropping faces; sharpening surface is stained red and finishing surface is stained black. One end has padded, bulbous shaped leather grip handle, the other end has metal, swivel hook hanger. Inscriptions printed in gold on leather at hook end.Printed gold lettering stamped “Sherlite”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shaving leather, shaving accessory, barber’s equipment, barber shop razor strop, razor strop, straight razor, razor and knife sharpener, sherlite razor strop, personal effects, toiletries, thomas sherry

The book includes articles of interest to Victoria's TAFE teachers. John McMahon's 'The Strong Providers of early Technical and Further Education' includes Mechanics' Institutes, changes in technical education, government interference post the 1890s Economic Depression, Fink Royal Commission, 1910 Victorian Secondary Education Act, Frank tate, Apprentice Trade Training Board pre 1918, Industrial Retraining of Soldiers (Repatriation).Green and black soft covered booklet with articles relating to TAFE. The editorial group for this issue was Dick Mack (Footscray), Roger Mcfarlane (Ballarat School of Mines), Peter Skilbeck (Hawthorn), Ken Eckersall (Hawthorn) and Jo gregory (Office of the TAFE Board) Contents: * A Future for TAFE by Des Thornton * The Changing Context of TAFE by Ken Eckersall * The Strong Providers of Early technical And Further Education by John McMahon * What TAFE Colleges are doing about Blackburn * Youth Programs, TAFE and the Meaning of Life! by Russell Cook * A New Model of Support Teaching in TAFE by Leonie Morgan * Integration of People with disabilities into TAFE by Leonie Morgan * Commonwealth Initiatives to Promote Women in Non-Traditional Training and Employment by Laurel Black * Multicultural education in two Colleges: Some Practical Achievements by Fiona Worthy * Teaching Writing in ESL Through the Word Processor: A Case Study by John Humann and Dennis Farrugia. * What Further Studies Mean to Me by Mike Healy * Industrial release Programs for Carpentry and joinery TAFE Teachers by Geoff Rodgers * So That's What You Can Do!: A CDO Role Analysis by Kevin Vallance * Monitoring Technological Change by Barry Brinkworth * Apprentice Training: An Update on Research by Bob Hayes. ballarat school of mines, tafe, technical and further education, technical education, peter skilbeck, roger mcfarlane, mcfarlane

This is a set of 20 photographs of two personnel with their training awards upon return from their Subject 1 Corporal course, taken at the Army Survey Regiment, Bendigo in October 1987. Lithographic Squadron’s SPR Janet Murray and SPR Shona Hastie achievement on a military skills-based promotion course was commendable, given most of their employment was spent in Royal Australian Survey Corps technical tasks.This is a set of 20 photographs of two personnel with their training awards upon return from their Subject 1 Corporal course, taken at the Army Survey Regiment, Bendigo in October 1987. The photographs are on 35mm negative film and were scanned at 96 dpi. They are part of the Army Survey Regiment’s Collection. .1) to .4) - Photo, black & white, 1987, SPR Shona Hastie with her SUBJ 1 CPL course award. .5) to .10) - Photo, black & white, 1987, SPR Janet Murray with her SUBJ 1 CPL course award. .11) - Photo, black & white, 1987, L to R: SPR Shona Hastie and SPR Janet Murray with their SUBJ 1 CPL course awards. .12) to .14) - Photo, black & white, 1987, L to R: SPR Janet Murray and SPR Shona Hastie with their SUBJ 1 CPL course awards. .15) to .17) - Photo, black & white, 1987, SPR Janet Murray with her SUBJ 1 CPL course award in front of an Ultra-MAN-III printing press. .18) to .20) - Photo, black & white, 1987, SPR Shona Hastie with her SUBJ 1 CPL course award in front of the Pakotone film processor..1P to .20P – ‘SPR Murray & Hastie SUBJ 1 for CPL Awards Oct 87’. royal australian survey corps, rasvy, army survey regiment, army svy regt, fortuna, asr, litho

This is a set of 23 photographs of cartographic, aero-triangulation and lithographic equipment, and personnel at the Army Survey Regiment, Fortuna, Bendigo circa 1979. Photos .8P to .23P were taken in Lithographic Squadron’s printing, Camera, proofing rooms and external buildings. Cartographic Squadron’s SGT Jim McDonald operated the Editwriter type setting machine, as shown in photo .2P for a couple years in a room on the top floor of Fortuna Villa. This is a set of 23 photographs of cartographic, aero-triangulation and lithographic equipment, and personnel at the Army Survey Regiment, Fortuna, Bendigo, c1979. Black and white photos are on photographic paper and mounted on manilla card. They were scanned at 300 dpi. .1) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Typesetting machine, ‘Editwriter’ Model 7500, SGT Jim McDonald. .2) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Processor Model ACP101 & dual disk module (attached to Editwriter). .3) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Duplicating machine, stencil process electric ‘Gestetner’. .4) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Comparator photogrammetric stecometer, modified ‘Carl Zeiss’, CPL Jack Elverd. .5) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Point transfer device ‘Wild PUG IV. .6) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Zoom transfer scope, stereo ‘Bausch & Lomb’ .7) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Stereoplotter analytical automatic, ‘APC/3-1’. .8) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Prophylaxis unit, ‘Densply/Cavtron’ .9) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Machine punch register (made by Bendigo Ordnance Factory). .10) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Plan printer 122cm (48”) wide. ‘Admel Bruning’ Model - 5003A. .11) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Metal halide printing lamp. ‘Violight 5000 HV’ .12) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Densitometer transmission or reflection, ‘Macbeth’ Model – TR 524 MD. .13) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Machine whirling vertical type ‘Payne VLW’. .14) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Densitometer reflection, ‘Macbeth’ Model – RD917. .15) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Densitometer reflection, 240V ‘Cosar’ .16) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Printer contact ‘Hohlux’ Model RP-II, LCPL Martin Van der Maele. .17) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Frame printing vacuum vertical. .18) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Frame printing vacuum flip top 91cm x 117cm. .19) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Printer reduction stereo plotter diapositive ‘Wild’ Model – U3A modified and U4A modified to U4A plus. .20) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Printing press offset rotary lithographic 3 colour ‘Ultra-MAN-III’ .21) to. 23) - Photo, black & white, c1979, Camera cartographic consolidated super 100 32” x 32”The three personnel appearing in this set are identified. Most items have a full description, NSN, serial number, and the Repairer’s name, address and phone details and contact name. Just the full description is documented.royal australian survey corps, rasvy, army survey regiment, army svy regt, fortuna, asr

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

This specimen was recovered from Ceres West of Geelong, Victoria. Greenstone is the name for any metamorphosed basic igneous rock (in the case of this specimen, Gabbro) that gains its greenish colour to the presence of the minerals chlorite, actinolite, or epidote, hence the term 'green' and 'stone'. Greenstone is often formed through metamorphsis along a convergent plate boundary. In the rock cycle (the series of processes that creates the various types of rocks) there are identified three different types of rocks, which are the sedimentary, the igneous and the metamorphic. Metamorphic rocks started out as sedimentary, igneous or earlier metamorphic rocks but changed from their original condition under the effect of high heat, high pressure or hot, mineral-rich fluid. However, if pressure or heat is too high, then the rock will melt, resulting in the formation of an igneous rock. The name used to describe these types of rocks reflects this specific inherent trait of change, since the word “metamorphic” derives from the Greek word “metamorphosis”, meaning “change of form or structure”. Metamorphic rocks form in the Earth`s crust but can be also found on the surface, due to elevation of the Earth`s surface. They are divided into two categories: the foliated metamorphic and the non-foliated metamorphic rocks. Gabbro is a highly useful mineral that is often polished to create cemetery markers and kitchen benches. It is notable for its qualities of durability, being able to withstand extreme elements and wear. Whilst not rare, Gabbro is of great utility and has been highly desirable for its qualities. This specimen is part of a larger collection of geological and mineral specimens collected from around Australia (and some parts of the world) and donated to the Burke Museum between 1868-1880. A large percentage of these specimens were collected in Victoria as part of the Geological Survey of Victoria that begun in 1852 (in response to the Gold Rush) to study and map the geology of Victoria. Collecting geological specimens was an important part of mapping and understanding the scientific makeup of the earth. Many of these specimens were sent to research and collecting organisations across Australia, including the Burke Museum, to educate and encourage further study.Greenstone is a solid hand-sized metamorphic mineral of a green colour. Greenstone is the name for any metamorphosed basic igneous rock (in the case of this specimen, Gabbro) that gains its greenish colour to the presence of the minerals chlorite, actinolite, or epidote, hence the term 'green' and 'stone'. Gabbro is a medium to coarse grained rocks that consist primarily of plagioclase feldspar and pyroxene. Greenstone is often formed through metamorphsis along a convergent plate boundary. Gabbro forms due to cooling and crystallization of magma underneath Earth's surface. Greenstone/Gabbro/from Ceres west/of Geelong. Has old Geological Survey label/and probably collected by/Richard Daintree in 1861/C.Willam 15/4/21/ Other label: 62 /greenstone, metamorphosed, igneous rock, gabbro, chlorite, actinolite, epidote, metamorphsis, rock cycle, various types of rocks, sedimentary, high heat, high pressure, mineral-rich fluid, metamorphosis, foliated metamorphic, non-foliated metamorphic, convergent plate boundary, greenish colour, minerals

This collection of 17 photos was most likely taken in Lithographic Squadron, Army Survey Regiment, Fortuna, Bendigo, c1970s. Although these photos are not annotated most personnel are positively identified. Some photos are cropped enlargements of previous photos. See item 6060.8P for more information and photos of platemaking. There is more information on the Ultra-MAN-III, Komoni and Planeta Printing Presses on pages 71 and 120 of Valerie Lovejoy’s book 'Mapmakers of Fortuna – A history of the Army Survey Regiment’ ISBN: 0-646-42120-4. For additional photos, refer to item 6062.4P for the Heidelberg press, item 6063.5P for the Komori press, item 6064.9P for the Planeta press and item 6065.10P for Ultra-MAN-III presses. In photos .11P to .14P the technician is applying a UV-sensitive pigmented dye emulating one of the map print colours to a white opaque polyester sheet mounted on a rotating table in a whirler. .12P and .14P are enlargements of previous photos. See item 6059.4P for more information and photos on the map proof making process. The Krause Wohlenberg operated by George Austen in photo .17P was a heavy-duty guillotine to trim bulk printed map stock in the c1970s and c1980s. See item 6069.6P for more information and photos of guillotine equipment.This is a set of 17 photographs of Print Troop personnel and equipment from Lithographic Squadron at the Army Survey Regiment, Fortuna, Bendigo, c1970s. The photographs were printed on photographic paper and are part of the Army Survey Regiment’s Collection. The photographs were scanned at 300 dpi. .1) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, Preparing printing plate, SGT Alvan Howard. .2) to.3) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, Preparing printing plate, unidentified technician. .4) - Photo, black & white, 1979, Planeta Polygraph Printing Press., L to R: SPR Peter Breukel, CPL Lance Strudwick. .5) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, Ultra-MAN-III Printing Press. .6) and .7) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, Ultra-MAN-III Printing Press, unidentified technician. .8) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, Newkoni Komori Printing Press, unidentified technician. .9) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, Original Heidelberg Printing Press, unidentified technician. .10) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, MANN flatbed proof press, unidentified technician. .11) to .14) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, applying dye to a whirl-on proof, unidentified technician. .15) and .16) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, applying diazo coat to a scribe sheet, CPL Colin Hardisty. .17) - Photo, black & white, c1970s, Krause Wohlenberg heavy-duty paper guillotine, George Austen.No personnel are annotated. .2P annotated ‘completed development on a negative working plate.’ .3P annotated ‘a wipe-on plate.’ .4P annotated ‘1979’. .12P annotated ‘Re-coating a proof with the next wanted colour on the vertical whirler.’ .13P annotated ‘has hardened (retained) area required. Done on a vertical whirler.’ .15P and .16P annotated ‘Preparing a sheet of scribe material with a Diazo (light sensitive) coating.’royal australian survey corps, rasvy, army survey regiment, army svy regt, fortuna, printing, litho