Appears to be reproduction of newspaper photograph. South Side of highway.Written below one photograph, "Photo of Coach and Horses Hotel, corner of White Horse Road and Madden Street. Enter Estate at Madden Street". 1924.

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

This card was witnessed by Elizabeth Ann Robertson of 1004 Mair St, Ballarat. It most probably has something to do with security during World War 2.Double sided card with handwritten details on a printed cardworld war two, william hall robertson, william robertson, identity card, letterhead, brinds propriety limited, federal distilleries

Oblong stone. All sides show evidence of rubbing.turkey stone, chinese, goldfields, harrietville

Brass daisy needle with long hook attached to the side.

Port of Portland Authority archivesFront: (no inscriptions) Back: (no inscriptions) pencil crop marks over back.port of portland archives, portland harbour trust, dredging

Side Cap, Officers, war time. Manufacture 1944uniform, 1944, raf

Construction of Gas&Fuel headquarters. Side view of the building.Fujibuildings, gas company, gas & fuel bendigo

Construction of Gas&Fuel headquarters. Side view of the building.Fujibuildings, gas company, gas & fuel bendigo

8453.1 - Typical shovel with a long shaft and steep sides.

Small clear rectangular glass bottle. Side Indents

Slide. ATISHA CENTRE, BUDA. A side view of Buda.slide, bendigo, atisha centre, buda, atisha centre, buda

Four-sided white program with royal blue print.preston technical school, official reconstitution, program, nmit

Advertising aquatic display to be held off St Kilda Pier of 16 March 1918. Featuring parade and numerous lifesaving events (men and women).Funds to aid Returned Soldiers Amelioration FundCream (discoloured) paper printed one side in blackwwi, world war i, returned soldiers amelioration fund, insurance staffs' patriotic fund, st kilda pier, wwi fund-raising, royal life saving society

Advertising a Grand Gala Day at Elwood Beach, organised by Elwood Life Saving Club and the Elsternwick Friendly Societies and Trades Club to aid the Red Cross. Attractions outlined. Admission free but collection on grounds.Paper, brown-coloured, printed in black on one sideelwood life saving club, elsternwick friendly societies and trades club, wwi fund-raising

For Cinderella dance at the Dandies' at Wickliffe House St Kilda. Wickcliffe House was an elaborate wedding cake of a house, built in 1873 on one of the prime pieces of land in St Kilda overlooking the bay. In 1912 it was converted to cafe and theatre called Arcadia and subsequently The Dandies open Air Theatre. It was demolished in.the 1970's and the land is now occupied by Arrandale, one of the last high rises to be built along the foreshore. Wickliffe was built for John Dickson Wyelaskie who was a higly successful parstoralist in the Western District. Yellow cardboard printed one side in dark blueHandwritten notation in red ink, mostly illegible, dated 27/6/16 wickliffe house, the dandies

Date unspecified. Could be 1919 or 1923. Invitation from Mayor of City of St Kilda, TG Allen, to a meeting on a Monday at 8pm.Cream-coloured paper, printed on one side in redcity of st kilda, special constables, official notices

Date unspecified. LIkely to be 1927. Notice of public meeting to launch St Kilda appeal for shrine of remembrance.Cream-coloured paper, printed on one side in redcity of st kilda, official notices, shrine of remembrance

Ticket to admit one child to the Victory Theatre to celebrate Empire Day on 24 August 1929Blue coloured card, printed in blue on one sideempire day, victory theatre, st kilda mayoral function

Invitation to the Mayor and Councillors to attend a social evening to formally open the newly renovated club rooms of the St Kilda Club on 14 April 1930Pink coloured card printed in blue on one sideHandwritten notation: The Mayor + Councillors St. Kilda Handwritten deletion: Please present this ticket at doorst kilda club

Entry ticket to the Admiral's Call at St Kilda, a function on the lawn at the foot of St Kilda Pier, in connection with the visit by the British Naval Squadron, 18 March 1924Yellow coloured card, printed in black on one sidebritish naval squadron, st kilda mayoral function, admiral's call at st kilda

Flyer promoting the 1923 Annual Ball presented by Mrs Kuring and featuring music by The Austral Orchestra. Mrs Kuring presented De Luxe Assemblies on Saturdays at St Kilda Town Hall. Cream coloured paper printed in blue on one sidemrs kuring, de luxe assemblies, st kilda balls

Ticket to a display by the Wolf Cubs of No. 9 District (St Kilda, Caulfield, Brighton and Sandringham) in St Kilda Town Hall to raise funds for the St Kilda Branch of the Alfred Hospital Auxiliary. The date given is 3 June, but the year is not specified.Tan coloured paper printed on one side in blackwolf cubs, st kilda town hall, hospital fundraising, the alfred hospital auxiliary