Kathryn Knitwear, founded by Robert Blake, manufactured high quality children’s knitwear in Melbourne from the 1940s – 1980s. Robert Blake began manufacturing children’s knitwear in his bedroom in Strathmore using a hand powered machine in the late 1940s. The operation moved to Ascot Vale and Essendon, before eventually establishing a factory in Moonee Ponds in the early 1950s. The business continued to expand, necessitating a move to a new factory in Broadmeadows. By 1962, the Broadmeadows factory was producing an average of 20,000 garments per month, which increased to 24,000 by 1964. Robert Blake’s Son, Brendan recalls that “The Kathryn brand was famous around Australia, anywhere children needed to keep warm and dress smartly. It also won a number of wool fashion awards”, including the 1969 Wool Awards, which was held by the Australian Wool Bureau and published in Women’s Weekly. The Kathryn range was designed for durability, comfort and care, without sacrificing style. They used patterning techniques that increase stretchiness, comfort and fit, as well as integrating decorative elements into the fabric to prevent them from being bulky, uncomfortable or tight. Making longevity of style a priority, Brendan Blake remembers that “there was one particular garment that was in the range for at least thirty years”. He also recalls “In the past, when women have found out that I was associated with Kathryn Knitwear, they would often relate to me the story of a garment they had purchased or received as a gift and, when their child had grown out of it, they would hand it on to another child. Several ladies have told me of purchasing garments for their daughters’ glory box, or saving a particular garment after their daughter had grown out of it. Brendan Blake: “At the peak of their operation they employed approximately two hundred people, mainly women and girls. A family would often seek to send their daughter to work in this company because they knew they would be looked after and safe. One lady wrote to me telling me that working at the Moonee Ponds Factory prior to getting married was the happiest time of her life.” In 1963, workers at the Kathryn factory earned £13 per week, which was 8 shillings and 8 pence higher than the minimum weekly wage for female workers in the textile manufacturing industry (£12 11s 4d). By 1970, the Kathryn Knitwear brand expanded from children’s knitwear into womenswear under the brand name ‘Lady Kathryn’, and for boys and men under ‘Robert Blake’. Continuing to diversify their distribution, they also began exporting ‘Kathryn’ garments to New Zealand, the Pacific Islands, and Japan. ‘Kathryn Knitwear’ was well-known for their early adoption of modern materials and techniques that had broad appeal to their customer base. This is shown in their early use of the acrylic fibre ‘Orlon’ in the 50s and 60s and ‘Superwash’ wool in the 1970s. Many of Kathryn Knitwear’s styles, particularly those that were long running staples of the brand, were available in both wool and Orlon to suit the consumer’s preference. Cotton is a common material for knitwear worn in the warmer months, as it is very breathable and absorbs moisture easily. While we mostly associate knitwear with keeping us warm in the cold, the market for Australian knitwear would be very limited without options to wear all year round. The decoration on this garment was embroidered by hand by a skilled worker at the Kathryn Knitwear factory. Far from the humble origins of one man in his bedroom with a hand-cranked machine; at its closure in 1980, the Broadmeadows factory of ‘Kathryn’ housed more than 100 machines, including 53 sewing machines and 45 knitting machines. Robert Blake was “a passionate advocate for wool and Australian Made” throughout his whole life. A strong thread that ties through the lifespan of Robert Blake and Kathryn Knitwear is a balance between adopting new innovations without sacrificing the core values of durability, comfort, care and style that had made the brand so well known. Their legacy forms an integral part of both Australian social and manufacturing history.White diaper set. Short sleeved white top with two inverted box pleats along whole length, stitched at shoulder and mid chest. Embroidered in half cross stitch with two blue dogs on front. Closes in centre back with three plastic pearlescent buttons. White baby diaper shorts with ribbing at waist and leg holes .3 is a sample tag with manufacturing information, including price, size and colours available .4 is a swing tag with manufacturer care instructions.1 [label at back neck of top] Kathryn Reg’d / All Cotton / 18 .3 [sample label] [Obverse] STYLE: 314. Diaper Sat [sic] – Emb top. Combed Cotton. SIZE: 18” PRICE: 26/- COLOR: BLUE. LEMON. WHITE. [reverse] KATHRYN Garments are •PRE-SHRUNK •STANDARD MEASUREMENTS •FIT EXACTLY •LAUNDER PERFECTLY Designed and Manufactured by ROBERT BLAKE, MELBOURNE .4 [retail label] [obverse] Kathryn PRE-SHRUNK KNITWEAR Style: 314 [handwritten] DESIGNED & MANUFACTURED BY Robert Blake MELBOURNE [reverse] IMPORTANT. Special care should be taken with white and pastel shades. Rinse thoroughly. Do NOT dry in sunlight. WASHING INSTRUCTIONS 1.Wash frequently to AVOID HEAVY SOILING 2.Wash garment BY HAND, in lukewarm Velvet Soap suds. ON NO ACCOUNT RUB SOAP ON GARMENT. 3.Squeeze suds gently through garment but DO NOT RUB. Rubbing will cause garment to thicken. 4.RINSE AT LEAST TWICE IN CLEAN WATER TO REMOVE ALL SOAP. 5.To dry, roll garment in a towel to remove excess moisture, turn garment inside out and pull it lengthwise, then safety-pin to line through shoulder tape. 6.To keep Brushed Wool garments like new brush frequently with nylon brush.children's knitwear, children's clothing, knitwear, clothing, manufacturing, fashion textile production, embroidery, embroiderer, hand embroidery, dog embroidery, animal embroidery, animal motif, dog motif, dog, animal, baby clothes, baby knitwear, baby clothing

Originating in Sweden as early as the 17th century, Näversöm embroidery gets its name from a piece of birch bark that was used as a frame. Since the birch bark frame could be easily rolled up and carried to protect her work, the Shepherdess did her Näversöm embroidery while tending her animals. The Näversöm embroidery technique is unusual because it is entirely stitched from the back. The birch bark protected the front of the piece, and the final design was not revealed until the folk art was completely finished. This embroidery would have become extinct had it not been for a Swedish woman, who owned a needlework shop in Hudiksvall, Sweden, who studied the Näversöm stitchery and began teaching this specialized embroidery in the late 1800s. Näversöm had a revival in the 1960s and '70s in Sweden when several instructional articles were published. Näversöm was used as household linens, and in earlier times as lampshades that would display the beautiful artistry as the light shined through the needlework. Examples of new and old patterns are still available from Sweden. Swedish Näversöm MatCream mat in Swedish Näversöm technique. Mat design forms a diagonal cross.embroidery, mats, drawn thread

Dark green book with blue printing on the cover titled 'The Victorian Drawing Book'. Border around the edges. Has space on the front for name, class, commenced and finished on the front. Price sixpence. Pencil drawings in the book include some letters of the alphabet, people, animals and flowers. Three loose drawing in the book and a transfer of an iris and butterflies for embroidery. Supplement to Weldon's Ladies' Journal. Advertisement for Faudel's Embroidery Silks, Peacock & Squirrel Brands.drawing, pencil, drawing book, german heritage society collection - the victorian drawing book

24 pagesnon-fictionA wide variety of hand embroidery stiches were used, as well as machine embroidery on hand-painted fabric.Tree trunks were mainly appliqued but some some were cross-stiched; distant foliage is free machine embroidery on water-soluble fabric and closer foliage consists of individually embroidered leaves.All 55 embroideries of birds, animals, fish, insects, plants, fence posts, logs, rocks, etc. were worked by 15 people.312 residents, families and friends added their stiches to the canvaswork label panel. embroidery, cardinia flora, cardinia fauna

Traditional embroidery (chasu) in Korea has a history of more than 2,000 years. Since prehistoric times, the need for sewing led ancient Koreans to use needles made from fish or other animal bones to weave animal skin, tree bark and leaves. After society got more advanced, chasu was introduced as a method of adding colour and detail.Silk embroidery of a pair of peacocks under cherry blossom and peonies. Cream silk background with colourful satin stitch embroidery using silk threads.Four characters - Chinese 'Hanzi' or Korean 'Hanja'

Edna Wark was a Foundation Member of The Embroiderers Guild, Victoria.Embroidered Felt Mouse embroidered with decorative stitches, couching and beads.Label attached " Embroideries by Edna Wark - 136 Prospect Hill Rd, Canterbury 3126"animals, felt

During the late 19th and early 20th century, the badges were prized collector items for wives of western diplomats stationed in Peking or Shanghai, and missionaries throughout China. The western collectors in old China not only framed the beautiful badges and hung them on walls, thus preserving them for future generations, but made evening purses of them. They put them under glass-covered serving trays, made decorative boxes adorned by them, and other imaginative items. They were most innovative with the regal badges that had been displayed with great pride by mandarin on the black silk surcoats worn over the colorful dragon robes on all official occasions in the court of the last emperors and empresses of China. Two groups of men achieved badges, civil and military. Each category had nine ranks. The civil rank badges feature birds for identification, and the military utilize animals, both real and mythological. The first civil examination was generally taken at approximately age 18. Those who passed were awarded the Flower of Talent or Hsiu-ts’ai title and were entitled to wear the ninth rank badge, the Paradise Flycatcher. This would be equivalent to receiving our Bachelor of Arts degree.Silk embroidery on silk fabric. Originally a Chinese Civil Rank Badge, repurposed into a bag. Satin stitch and metallic thread couching. Embroidery in pale mauve, aqua, blue and cream. Central panel has a bird with wings outstretched. Metal thread is used to attach to green Peking glass handles. Internal lining is degraded teal silk.

Sohrai embroidery is a traditional art form inspired by the, ritualistic, nature-based wall paintings of Jharkhand, India, created by tribal women, often during harvest seasons. This style features intricate, geometric, and figurative motifs—such as animals, birds, and plants—translated onto fabrics using techniques like Kantha stitch, embroidery, and sometimes mirror work.Tea cosy is probably Indian. It is of cream cotton fabric with a tamboured design of dragons in brown and black. Includes tea cloth and napkins.embroidery, tea cosy, india?, tambour work

Donor believes it is Hungarian and over 100 years old (1872) worked by peasants.Square cloth with drawn ground and a design of stylized animals, finished with a crocheted edge echoing the main pattern. Technique resembles Sicilian drawn thread work.embroidery, table cloth, white work, drawn thread, sicily, hungary

The needlepoint technique of Berlin work received its name from the German worsted wool that is an essential component in producing these pieces. Also referred to as canvas work, this form of pictorial embroidery became a craze during the mid-nineteenth century. Practiced by women of all ages, it consists of carefully arranged compositions with biblical, pastoral, or romantic scenes, floral arrangements, animals, and other pattern variations, which were largely distributed by German publishers. The tent stitch and cross-stitch were fundamental to these designs as canvas work patterns required the majority of the ground fabric to be covered with embroidery thread. https://raynhamhallmuseum.org/thehomeneedle/the-berlin-wool-work-craze/ Apart from framed pictures, Berlin work was seen as a way to adorn everyday objects and can be found in sewing tools, upholstered furniture and articles of dress, represented here by a pair of men’s slippers. Moreover, the practice of beadwork could be adapted to canvas work patterns by using one bead for every painted square, augmenting the ornamental quality of this type of craft.Berlin work (wool) picture of a bouquet of flowers in soft pinks, creams, fawns etc. on a background of dark cream felt or suede-like fabric.embroidery, picture, berlin work, wool

Mary and Joseph are wooden artist models, dressed in cream linen pulled/drawn thread robes. Mary has a blue linen head shawl. Baby Jesus lies in a wooden box, swathed in embroidered linen. There is also an embroidered lamb. Joseph has linen headpiece. Mary has silk petticoat. Mary 30 cms Joseph 32 cms Baby Jesus 12.5 cms (box) Lamb 10cmsembroidery, pulled thread, drawn thread, nativity set, animals

Lorna Law (EGV) mounted pieces onto the backing fabric after children made the pieces in class. Inspired by hangings made by New Zealand embroiderers to hang in the new Globe Theatre in London. On the way to London they were hung in the Great Hall of the National Gallery in Melbourne.Brown cotton, edged in a shiny green cord. Birds, animals, fish etc. in a multitude of bright colours. Appliqued pieces sewn by children.embroidery, applique, children, class sampler, hanging

Drawn thread and surface embroidery. Natural coloured linen. Very open drawn ground. Bars are formed by drawing threads and cording. Fabric left, not drawn creating a design of animals and trees.embroidery, drawn thread, table cloths, surface stitchery, animals, animal

This panel was made by the Hmong people of Laos/Cambodia, and given to the Guild when the donor spoke at the meeting.Embroidered and applique panel. Blue border with grey and white, grey and blue inner border and a centre square of naïve embroidery in the Hmong style with brightly coloured people and animals. Colours of red, pink, green, yellow and black.embroidery, laos, animal, bird, butterfly, pigs, animals

Square mat on ecru linen, embroidered in Assisi style, with a square centre and wide border of animals. Orange cross stitch outlined in black.Mable Carey 1960italy, assisi, embroidery, cross stitch

Kathryn Knitwear, founded by Robert Blake, manufactured high quality children’s knitwear in Melbourne from the 1940s – 1980s. Robert Blake began manufacturing children’s knitwear in his bedroom in Strathmore using a hand powered machine in the late 1940s. The operation moved to Ascot Vale and Essendon, before eventually establishing a factory in Moonee Ponds in the early 1950s. The business continued to expand, necessitating a move to a new factory in Broadmeadows. By 1962, the Broadmeadows factory was producing an average of 20,000 garments per month, which increased to 24,000 by 1964. Robert Blake’s Son, Brendan recalls that “The Kathryn brand was famous around Australia, anywhere children needed to keep warm and dress smartly. It also won a number of wool fashion awards”, including the 1969 Wool Awards, which was held by the Australian Wool Bureau and published in Women’s Weekly. The Kathryn range was designed for durability, comfort and care, without sacrificing style. They used patterning techniques that increase stretchiness, comfort and fit, as well as integrating decorative elements into the fabric to prevent them from being bulky, uncomfortable or tight. Making longevity of style a priority, Brendan Blake remembers that “there was one particular garment that was in the range for at least thirty years”. He also recalls “In the past, when women have found out that I was associated with Kathryn Knitwear, they would often relate to me the story of a garment they had purchased or received as a gift and, when their child had grown out of it, they would hand it on to another child. Several ladies have told me of purchasing garments for their daughters’ glory box, or saving a particular garment after their daughter had grown out of it. Brendan Blake: “At the peak of their operation they employed approximately two hundred people, mainly women and girls. A family would often seek to send their daughter to work in this company because they knew they would be looked after and safe. One lady wrote to me telling me that working at the Moonee Ponds Factory prior to getting married was the happiest time of her life.” In 1963, workers at the Kathryn factory earned £13 per week, which was 8 shillings and 8 pence higher than the minimum weekly wage for female workers in the textile manufacturing industry (£12 11s 4d). By 1970, the Kathryn Knitwear brand expanded from children’s knitwear into womenswear under the brand name ‘Lady Kathryn’, and for boys and men under ‘Robert Blake’. Continuing to diversify their distribution, they also began exporting ‘Kathryn’ garments to New Zealand, the Pacific Islands, and Japan. The decoration on this garment was embroidered by hand by a skilled worker at the Kathryn Knitwear factory. ‘Kathryn Knitwear’ was well-known for their early adoption of modern materials and techniques that had broad appeal to their customer base. This is shown in their early use of the acrylic fibre ‘Orlon’ in the 50s and 60s and ‘Superwash’ wool in the 1970s. Many of Kathryn Knitwear’s styles, particularly those that were long running staples of the brand, were available in both wool and Orlon to suit the consumer’s preference. Wool has been renowned for its excellent properties for thousands of years, by people from all over the world. Not only good for thick winter woollens, it can help keep you cool in summer, as well as being durable and resistant to water, fire, ultraviolet light, stains and odour. Far from the humble origins of one man in his bedroom with a hand-cranked machine; at its closure in 1980, the Broadmeadows factory of ‘Kathryn’ housed more than 100 machines, including 53 sewing machines and 45 knitting machines. Robert Blake was “a passionate advocate for wool and Australian Made” throughout his whole life. A strong thread that ties through the lifespan of Robert Blake and Kathryn Knitwear is a balance between adopting new innovations without sacrificing the core values of durability, comfort, care and style that had made the brand so well known. Their legacy forms an integral part of both Australian social and manufacturing history.Brown children’s cardigan with embroidery of four baby chicks in yellow and red on green grass at bottom of front panels. Closes at centre front with three brown plastic buttons[Label at back neck with blue lettering woven into label] KATHRYN REGD / 20 ALL WOOL CREATED BY ROBERT BLAKEchildren's knitwear, children's clothing, clothing, knitwear, manufacturing, fashion textile production, machine knitting, embroidery, embroiderer, chickens, chicks, baby animals, cute animals

Assisi embroidery originated in Assisi, Umbria region in Italy, during the Renaissance. The techniques involved in Assisi embroiderywere practiced for many centuries; however, the modern form of Assisi embroidery as it is recognized today took its shape and form in Assisi in the 18th century. Early examples of Assisi embroidery often feature religious themes, pointing to its ecclesiastical beginnings. Convent nuns stitched church altar cloths, chasubles, vestments, and other religious items and materials with Assisi embroidery motifs. St. Clare of Assisi, an Italian nun who started the order of St. Clare, later became the patron saint of embroiderers. She was known for stitching altar cloths for churches in Assisi. Assisi embroidery went through several evolutionary stages, reflected in its changing motifs. In the 13th and 14th centuries, motifs included stylized birds and animals, scrollwork, and geometric designs. In the 15th and 16th centuries, Assisi work reflected Biblical and Renaissance-inspired motifs, with demons, angels, and mythological creatures.Assisi work - natural evenweave linen with double running in black round the design then filled in with blue cross stitch, leaving the design 'voided'.embroidery, assisi, 1940-60, italy, sachet, lions

Narrow panel in bead embroidery. Four narrow bands form the design - floral, scrolls and flowers, fish and marine animals. Worked in very small beads. beading, china, birds, fish, flowers

Gifted by P.L.C. School Craft Dept. Melbourne by courtesy of Miss Lexie Luly, Art Mistress P.L.C. 1970. See attached letter.Cream even weave linen with cross stitched religious text, house, and ships, flowers and animals. Border of flowers. Pale wooden frame. "Tis religion that can give sweetest pleasures while we live tis religion must supply solid comfort when we die" Hannah Kefford Angell Aged 8 years 1843embroidery, samplers, mid 19th century, cross stitch

Pink silk damask centre embroidered with flowers, birds and animals. Cream silk border edged in gold metal thread. Backed with blue cotton.textiles, mats, silk embroidery, oriental, china

Purchased by the donor in Athens in 1977.Modern Greek. Green linen with coloured design in surface stitchery. The pattern is a traditional design of a ship, people and animals.embroidery, surface stitchery, greece, 1960-80

Beige linen, colours muted greens, browns, beige, blues. Large central rose and carnation. Religious text. Small animals and trees along base of design. Narrow black and gold frame.Leticia Luff 1823embroidery, cross stitch, samplers, early 19th century, england

Said to be a requirement of the nomadic Persian family groups. Sugar made in thick blocks and rasped down when required, it was hung in these bags to keep it away from insects and animals. Part of the Iranian collection selected by Lady Amies when on a trip in 1976.Cherry silk embroidered in gold and coloured sequins in the classic pine cone motif. Chartreuse border edged on both sides with gold braid. Cord and tassels threaded through rod loops for hanging. Red cotton lining. Small sample of Coats Filosheen mending cottonembroidery, beading, 1960-80, middle east

Originally framed by William Hayward, carver - gilder and picture frame manufacturer 54 Upper Richmond Road, Putney, EnglandFramed needlework sampler - five lines of alphabet and numbers worked in red cross stitch on a light brown material, followed by a verse, then a house, birds, boat, windmill, animals worked below. Cross stitch sampler. (See 'Other Information' for verse).Signed in cross stitch by the embroiderer, Sarah Moats, aged 10, 1836.handcrafts, embroidery

Cross stitch sampler on ecru linen , stitched in black, animals, birds, people working in garden. A verse on the lower half. Verse; Go make thy garden fair as thou canst. Thou workest never alone.Perhaps he's whose plot is next to thine. May see it and mend his own.embroidery, cross stitch, scotland

"The panel of needle weaving was taken from a remaining strip of a full length brown linen curtain. This was brought to Australia in the early years of the 20 th century but was possibly done much earlier. It is known to be of Russian workmanship and with a base of Russian drawn ground, round which was embroidered a primitive design showing several patterns of needle weaving in the detail. The central motif of two small animals, possibly bears, on either side of a mythical figure shows three designs of continuous border above and below the motifs is needle woven in a brighter coloured design. The donor was a member of the Guild who spent a considerable time in Great Britain, Western Europe and the Orient, including Russia, learning embroidery techniques at various schools of embroidery and bringing samples of local work back to Australia". Geraldine Amies (see Media) This was used as inspiration for the "Inspired by the Past" Exhibition by Lorna Law.Part of a larger piece in a coarse natural linen design appears to be of mythological significance - showing some animals (bears?). The back ground is Russian drawn ground and design is in needle weaving and surface stitchery.embroidery, cloths, early 19th century, russia, darning, surface stitchery, needleweaving pattern

Chinese sleeve embroidery bands, or wanxiu became popular in the late 19th century during the Qing Dynasty, evolving from the traditional Han cuff embroidery and Manchu styles. These detachable, decorated bands were added to women's informal jackets and robes, often featuring symbolic motifs like landscapes, flowers, and auspicious symbols. They served both a decorative function, displaying artistic skill and personal wishes, and a practical one by covering the sleeves when hands were folded at the waist. History and evolution: Origins: The practice of embroidering cuffs on robes existed during the previous Ming Dynasty for Han women, and this was adopted by the Manchu rulers who founded the Qing Dynasty. Qing Dynasty (1644-1911): The practice was popularized and elaborated upon during this era, with detachable bands becoming a fashionable element for informal wear. Symbolism: The embroidery included a complex visual vocabulary of wishes for a long life, many offspring, and a happy marriage, derived from nature, mythology, and classical literature. Functionality: Women would fold their arms, often with their hands inside the sleeves, so the embroidered bands, which were sewn to hang down the back of the jacket, would be displayed prominently down the front. 19th century peak: The late 19th century was the peak of their popularity, with intricate designs becoming fashionable and even influenced by court tastes, such as those favoured by the Empress Dowager Cixi. Later developments: The late 19th century saw the introduction of chemical 'aniline' dyes from Europe, leading to brighter, bolder colours in embroidery. Motifs and their Meanings: Auspicious symbols: Designs often included symbols for good fortune, wealth, and longevity. Natural imagery: Birds, flowers, and landscapes were common motifs that could represent natural beauty or convey specific symbolic meanings. Figurative scenes: Bands could also feature narrative scenes from classical stories or legends. The choice of motifs allowed women to express personal desires, cultural values, and aesthetic preferences, reflecting a more personal and informal style than official court attire.Classical Chinese design, a wide band of pale green satin is partly decorated with a band of embroidery. Pekin knot stitch outlined with a very fine white cord is worked in shades of pink, blue, yellow and green. Subjects chosen are flower vase, bats, sea creatures and peony flowers.On reverse 438/4103embroidery, garments, china, silk embroidery, poeny, flower, vase, bat, animals

This is typical of samplers done in England and Europe about 1800, with alphabet and numbers at the top. Then "Ann Crow her work - Aged 11 years Dec the 24th 1800". Then a poem "Virtue", then a number of spot designs of animals and plants. Border of strawberries surrounds part of it.Ann Crow her work - Aged 11 years Dec 24 1800 "Virtue Virtue's the chiefest Beauty of the Mind, The noblest Ornament of Human-kind; Virtue's our Safeguard and our guiding Star, That stirs up Reason when our Senses err."embroidery, cross stitch, samplers, 1800-20, england

Bought in Greece in 1961 from Attica near Athens.Antique design of small animals in cross stich on a natural linen with dark brown thread.embroidery, cross stitch, 17th century, greece

Label attached to record card states "Chinese Embroidery from the Royal Palace, Pekin J.M.S." Chinese sleeve embroidery bands, or wanxiu became popular in the late 19th century during the Qing Dynasty, evolving from the traditional Han cuff embroidery and Manchu styles. These detachable, decorated bands were added to women's informal jackets and robes, often featuring symbolic motifs like landscapes, flowers, and auspicious symbols. They served both a decorative function, displaying artistic skill and personal wishes, and a practical one by covering the sleeves when hands were folded at the waist. History and evolution: Origins: The practice of embroidering cuffs on robes existed during the previous Ming Dynasty for Han women, and this was adopted by the Manchu rulers who founded the Qing Dynasty. Qing Dynasty (1644-1911): The practice was popularized and elaborated upon during this era, with detachable bands becoming a fashionable element for informal wear. Symbolism: The embroidery included a complex visual vocabulary of wishes for a long life, many offspring, and a happy marriage, derived from nature, mythology, and classical literature. Functionality: Women would fold their arms, often with their hands inside the sleeves, so the embroidered bands, which were sewn to hang down the back of the jacket, would be displayed prominently down the front. 19th century peak: The late 19th century was the peak of their popularity, with intricate designs becoming fashionable and even influenced by court tastes, such as those favoured by the Empress Dowager Cixi. Later developments: The late 19th century saw the introduction of chemical 'aniline' dyes from Europe, leading to brighter, bolder colours in embroidery. Motifs and their Meanings: Auspicious symbols: Designs often included symbols for good fortune, wealth, and longevity. Natural imagery: Birds, flowers, and landscapes were common motifs that could represent natural beauty or convey specific symbolic meanings. Figurative scenes: Bands could also feature narrative scenes from classical stories or legends. The choice of motifs allowed women to express personal desires, cultural values, and aesthetic preferences, reflecting a more personal and informal style than official court attire. Pagoda: an omen of good. Two birds (possibly swallows): an omen approaching spring and also of approaching success. Rooster: a symbol of high rank (it's comb/crown (jinguan) is a pun for 'official' guan). Peony: a symbol of wealth. Deer (lu): means wealth and prosperity. Willow: a symbol of spring (chun). Willows with apricot blossoms (xinghuo), willlows (liu) and swallows (yan) symbolizes 'may you attend the spring banquet in the apricot grove (xinglin chunyan), or may you become a successful candidate. Pine: longevity. Mouth organ (sheng): is a pun for giving birth or 'to rise' as in rising in rank.Meaning : this pair of sleeve bands may have been wishing the owner of them good luck, success in an upcoming exam and that he may rapidly rise in rank, live a long life and continue to receive an official salary. Information from 'Hidden Meaning in Chinese Art' Terese Tse BartholomewFine white satin edged in shades oft blue silk flower embroidery. A fine example of Pekin knot stitch outlined with gold thread showing traditional Chinese motifs and figures. From bottom to top there is an outdoor scene with water and a building. Above this are flowers, hills, a rock formation, a pine and an animal (? pig or deer). Another building, blossoms and pine trees and a pot containing a cypress tree. Above the tree there is a male figure holding a bamboo pipe in one hand and a bird in the other. Further buildings follow, with a willow tree and two swallows flying.embroidery, garments, silk embroidery, late 19th century, china, trees, animals, pagoda