Contemporary Ahir style embroidery purchased by the donor from the embroiderer, Mrs Sofia Natemitha Mutna of Dhordo Village near Bhuj in Gujarat, India in January 2012.Contemporary Ahir style embroidery. A circular design in silk thread in red, blue, green, orange, yellow, pink and white on a black synthetic ground. Stitches are chain, running stitch, feather stitch and shisha work. Feather stitch is in a variegated thread.india, embroidery, india, shisha

Khotro, or bag using fragment of Ahir embroidery. Includes shisha mirror work. Design includes parrots and peacocks. Small tassels and buttons decorate edge.bag, dowry, shiska, india, embroidery

Purchased from NGO Shrujan- threads of Life, Bhuj, Gujarat in 2011. Neran style of embroidery is from the Bhujodi area of Kutch and was originally a variation of Kharek and Pakko embroidery however is now classified as a separate style. Neran means "eye brow" and refers to the curved units of closely stitched button hole stitch which resemble eye brows. Another feature of this style of embroidery is that the cloth is almost completely covered in geometric patterns of neran stitch along with tiny shisha mirrors and interlaced running stitch. Shrujan was a social enterprise formed in 1969 to preserve and promote hand embroidery and provide a livelihood for women from the village of Dhaneti. This model was repeated over the years and now operates in 114 villages across Kutch. The women produce high quality embroidered furnishing items and garments for the Shrujan outlets.Embroidered square cushion cover in Neran style geometric embroidery. Base fabric is completely covered in neran stitch, shisha mirrors and interlaced running stitch in dark red, olive green and tan untwisted floss. Embroidered panel has a silk duponi border.india, indian, kutch, gujarat, neran

Note: Virginia Mort feels that costume is from Rajasthan or Gujarat. Definitely from West India.Skirt of bright red satin with motifs of flowers and birds, and several borders at the base of skirt.embroidery, garments, tambour work, 1840-60, burma, skirt, blouse (part of wedding costume)

Purchased by the donor from the women embroiderers at the New Dhanetic village near Bhuj in Gujarat in April 2011.Contemporary Ahir style embroidery, hand embroidered in chain stitch and shisha work on red cotton. Stitching is in yellow, green, purple, red and white.embroidery, indian, shisha

Purchased from NGO Shrujan- threads of Life, Bhuj, Gujarat in 2011. Pakko style of embroidery by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar communities of Kutch area in Gujarat. Pakko literally means "solid" and refers to the densely stitched designs and motifs in a double button hole stitch. The embroidery also includes has tiny shisha mirrors surrounded by Kati stitch (cream). Shrujan was a social enterprise formed in 1969 to preserve and promote hand embroidery and provide a livelihood for women from the village of Dhaneti. This model was repeated over the years and now operates in 114 villages across Kutch. The women produce high quality embroidered furnishing items and garments for the Shrujan outlets.Embroidered square cushion cover in Pakko style embroidery with stylised floral motifs and geometric border. Dense double buttonhole stitch motifs with shisha mirrors surrounded by kati stitch (cream). Stitched in untwisted floss. Embroidered panel has a silk duponi border.flower, floral, india, indian, kutch, pakko

Traditional Banjara, Kuchi tribal hand embroidery from Gujarat or Rajasthan, India. Intricate multi-coloured thread stripes, traditional cowrie shell additions. In nomadic and pastoral communities of Kutch, Gujarat (such as the Rabari, Ahir and Mutwa tribes), cowrie shells - locally known as kaudi or kodi - hold practical, structural and deeply spiritual functions within Kutchi textile history. Spiritual protection - open landscapes of the desert made nomadic tribes feel vulnerable to unseen negative energies or envy (nazar). The slit of the cowrie shell resembles an open eye, it was believed to act as an amulet that watches back - stitched into garments the shells are meant to confuse, absorb, or deflect the 'evil eye' away from the wearer. They are strategically stitched into vulnerable, high movement zones: waistband and hemlines - act as protective spiritual barriers. Around the neckline, back closures and under the bust - guard a woman's reproductive health and vital energy. Heavily encrusted cowrie garments are traditional staples for brides and married women, symbolizing blessings for a fruitful marriage, healthy lineage, and safe childbearing.Bright green cotton fabric. Skirt has waist band and border embroidered in red, pink, blue and yellow. Cowrie shells are placed at intervals.embroidery, surface stitchery, india, shisha work, garments

Traditional Banjara, Kuchi tribal hand embroidery from Gujarat or Rajasthan, India. Intricate multi-coloured thread stripes, traditional shisha mirror work (abhla) on a choli (traditional backless or tie-back embroidered top). Historically, communities believed that the reflective shisha mirrors would ward off the evil eye by trapping or deflecting negative energy away from the wearer. Originally, artisans used natural mica chips or iridescent beetle wings to catch the light.Bright yellow and green cotton fabric. The top is embroidered with shisha mirrors and bands of embroidery in red, green and blue on yellow fabric. embroidery, surface stitchery, india, shisha work, garments