Showing 36 items
matching light metal work
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Federation University Historical Collection
Certificate, Education Department, Victoria, Victorian Education Department Certificates, 1916-1928
... light metal work... general design light metal work bessie m. barbery commerical ...Ballarat Technical Art School was a division of the Ballarat School of Mines.373 certificates in 2 boxes. Most appear to be related to subjects undertaken at the Ballarat Technical Art School. Director of education stamped signature Frank Tate.Stamped Ballarat School of Mines No.10 Stamped signature "Frank Tate"ann duke, plain needlework, victor greenhalgh, frank tate, ballarat technical art school, arnold j. allen, florence allen, m.a. ansen, dressmaking, modelling human figure from cast, ruby e. allison, drawing fro memory, nancy b. angwin, maude arberry, douglas w. arch, muriel j. arch, eileen bailey, annie c. baker, percy j. baker, general design, light metal work, bessie m. barbery, commerical arithmetic, decorative needlework, bert bernaldo, drawing from a flat example, lorna m. mccallum, brush drawing, stanley g.a. barnett, millinery, mavis g. beacham, theodore k. beckwith, isabel j. bell, kelva e. bellingham, leslie bennett, olive van berkel, elizabeth e. berry, beatrice m. blake, thomas g. blake, catherine m. bowers, nancy w. bowe, clarice v. branagh, harold r. brown, architecture, modelling the head from life, henry bull, light metalwork, ivan d. brown, thyra j. brown, henry j. bull, leila m. burford, embossed leathwork, lettering, drawing fro dressmakers, irene m. burke, josephine m. callery, modelling, mona r. callow, herbert cameron, lillias cameron, william e. carlyon, doris l. carter, ruth e. catt, hiram e. chamberlain, stephen chambers, jack d. chand, jack d. chard, clara v. clegg, beryl e. coad, john c. collins, keith m. collins, robert g. collins, kathleen m. conway, athol b. cornish, ballantyne cottier, douglas s. cotton, lilith s. christmas, perspective, doreen coughlan, ivy g. crompton, phyllis culliver, joan m. cuthbertson, alan r. cutter, john l. daniel, arthur dansey, katherine d'arcy, dorothy f. darling, myrtle f. darling, reginal a. davey, gwladys h. davies, annie dellaca, henry a. deller, ivy f. denovan, joyce doepel, bessie donacaster, charles o. dowie, horace b. dowsing, walter dunstan, mary dwyer, allan r. egglestone, melville g. ellingsen, hugh o. elliott, beryl r. ellis, cecil f. engish, allan e. evans, matson l. eves, olive j. fairlie, robert j. falla, mavis felstead, lena featherston, albert c. ferguson, alma ferguson, hilda m. ferguson, john f. ferguson, beatrice m. field, clarice f. fisher, philip h. fleischer, building construction, olive p. francis, agnes fraser, essie gale, gilbert foster, pearle fricke, effie gascoigne, enid m. gates, clarice gear, james a. geary, sylvia f. greenhalgh, evelyn f. geddes, thomas j. gibson, wavie b. gilbert, edna m. gilmer, nancy govan, eula h. gower, doris e. gray, lesley j. gower, henry n. graham, victor e. greenhalgh, melva e. gribble, human anatomy, roy k. griggs, jack gullan, robert gullan, alma m. gunn, dorothy j. hallan, lucy hamilton, james hammer, dorothy e. hamond, christopher j. hanlon, catherin hardess, lily haymes, gladys hedges, irene h. hewitt, john hill, victor j. hill, olive hillings, john a. hobill, frances k. holmes, gertrude m. hopkins, alice horan, marjorie hudson, linda m. hughes, lydia hughes, winifred humphreys, commercial english, agnes a. humphries, colin hunt, kathleen hutchinson, francis n. king, jean king, hilda knox, john kopke, isabel a. kopke, hazel jackson, freda jacobi, agnes james, william r. james, alexander johnson, edward j. jones, eleanor w.h. jones, nellie kau, thomas kean, francis kelly, roy k. kelly, thomas g. kierce, theo e. leonard, esther f. leviston, bessie lockett, norman h. long, ena mackay, gwenda e. mann, robert v. maddison, herbert w. malin, dorothy m. marriott, john c. mcarthur, james p. mcculloch, doris mcdougall, cyril mcgibbony, thelma mcgibbony, jean mcgregor, kenneth mciver, constance m. mckenzie, elsie j. mckissock, alexander k.mcleod, grace b. mclean, john f.w. mclean, rebecca mcphan, vera meeny, edna merritt, dougald miller, florence h. mingst, agnes m. monteith, doreen j. montgomery, jean e. montgomery, robert w.p. montgomery, margaret b. moore, harry e. morrish, james mow, gwendoline r. neagle, gerald r. newson, robert j. nicol, helen f. nicholl, george m. norton, edward s. oliver, mavis e. oliver, hector h, osborne, henry parker, norma e. parr, doris m. patterson, elsie pearce, celia pearlman, leslie pearlman, edna pearson, william j. perriman, eulalie perry, ernest b. pinney, charles e. peverill, clarence r. pittock, raymond b. pitts, phyllis polson, cynthia b. power, bessie puzey, john m. punshon, evelyn a.v. ramsay, robert i ramsay, william a. rattray, drawing for builders and artisans, george h. reed, fred reeves, mavis i. regelhuth, george r. renkin, annie e. reynolds, lizzie rice, eileen l. richards, henry c. riegelhuth, gladys m. riley, charles a. rimmington, amy robson, ernest w. robson, florence a. rogers, dorothy rppney, kathleen rooney, hugh n. ross, stella m. rowe, agnes w. ryan, rosaling e. sage, cora sandberg, eric c. sanders, douglas f. scott, sylvia e. selkirk, dorine a. shearer, gladys sheldon, emily e. simper, veri slattery, florence c. smith, hilda m. spencer, rose spiers, mopna g. spiller, alma m. stapleton, joyce w. stark, marcus m. stone, commercial correspondence, beatrice m. stuart, ena v. sullivan, margaret a. sydes, rita tainsh, norman b. tamlyn, arthur w. thane, alma m. thomas, david e. thomas, william h. thompson, william m. thomas, edgatr j.t. tippett, sidnet tippett, gladys tongway, mavis toop, hugh d. trainor, annie e. treloar, john h. treloar, eilleen trumain, linda f. treewk, percival a. trompf, percy trompf, jean tunbridge, ruth e. tunbridge, allan j. twaits, irene m. utting, elizabeth van beek, william a. wade, agnes a. walker, james a. walker, vera v. aller, john walsh, marjorie walters, rex warrillow, edith watson, bernice e. webb, constance i weeks, ina m. westcott, pearl whan, violet wheeler, myrtle d. whitfield, annie whitl, richard l. whitla, charles f. whitla, grace a. wilcock, murray a. wilkie, andrew w. william, arthur williams, baden p. williams, david d. williams, grace f. williams, maude h. williams, mavis m. williams, james williamson, ivy wilson, hector g wilson, frederick w.r. wilson, david s. wood -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Gas Tap, Before 1878
... Brass gas light tap with fancy metal work on the end... tap with fancy metal work on the end. Recovered from the wreck ...History of the Loch Ard: The Loch Ard got it’s name from ”Loch Ard” a loch which lies to the west of Aberfoyle, and to the east of Loch Lomond. It means "high lake" in Scottish Gaelic.The vessel belonged to the famous Loch Line which sailed many vessels from England to Australia. The Loch Ard was built in Glasgow by Barclay, Curdle and Co. in 1873, the vessel was a three-masted square-rigged iron sailing ship that measured 79.87 meters in length, 11.58 m in width, and 7 m in depth with a gross tonnage of 1693 tons with a mainmast that measured a massive 45.7 m in height. Loch Ard made three trips to Australia and one trip to Calcutta before its fateful voyage. Loch Ard left England on March 2, 1878, under the command of 29-year-old Captain Gibbs, who was newly married. The ship was bound for Melbourne with a crew of 37, plus 17 passengers. The general cargo reflected the affluence of Melbourne at the time. Onboard were straw hats, umbrella, perfumes, clay pipes, pianos, clocks, confectionery, linen and candles, as well as a heavier load of railway irons, cement, lead and copper. There were other items included that were intended for display in the Melbourne International Exhibition of 1880. The voyage to Port Phillip was long but uneventful. Then at 3 am on June 1, 1878, Captain Gibbs was expecting to see land. But the Loch Ard was running into a fog which greatly reduced visibility. Captain Gibbs was becoming anxious as there was no sign of land or the Cape Otway lighthouse. At 4 am the fog lifted and a lookout aloft announced that he could see breakers. The sheer cliffs of Victoria's west coast came into view, and Captain Gibbs realised that the ship was much closer to them than expected. He ordered as much sail to be set as time would permit and then attempted to steer the vessel out to sea. On coming head-on into the wind, the ship lost momentum, the sails fell limp and Loch Ard's bow swung back towards land. Gibbs then ordered the anchors to be released in an attempt to hold its position. The anchors sank some 50 fathoms - but did not hold. By this time the ship was among the breakers and the tall cliffs of Mutton Bird Island rose behind. Just half a mile from the coast, the ship's bow was suddenly pulled around by the anchor. The captain tried to tack out to sea, but the ship struck a reef at the base of Mutton Bird Island, near Port Campbell. Waves subsequently broke over the ship and the top deck became loosened from the hull. The masts and rigging came crashing down knocking passengers and crew overboard. When a lifeboat was finally launched, it crashed into the side of Loch Ard and capsized. Tom Pearce, who had launched the boat, managed to cling to its overturned hull and shelter beneath it. He drifted out to sea and then on the flood tide came into what is now known as Loch Ard Gorge. He swam to shore, bruised and dazed, and found a cave in which to shelter. Some of the crew stayed below deck to shelter from the falling rigging but drowned when the ship slipped off the reef into deeper water. Eva Carmichael a passenger had raced onto the deck to find out what was happening only to be confronted by towering cliffs looming above the stricken ship. In all the chaos, Captain Gibbs grabbed Eva and said, "If you are saved Eva, let my dear wife know that I died like a sailor". That was the last Eva Carmichael saw of the captain. She was swept off the ship by a huge wave. Eva saw Tom Pearce on a small rocky beach and yelled to attract his attention. He dived in and swam to the exhausted woman and dragged her to shore. He took her to the cave and broke the open case of brandy which had washed up on the beach. He opened a bottle to revive the unconscious woman. A few hours later Tom scaled a cliff in search of help. He followed hoof prints and came by chance upon two men from nearby Glenample Station three and a half miles away. In a complete state of exhaustion, he told the men of the tragedy. Tom then returned to the gorge while the two men rode back to the station to get help. By the time they reached Loch Ard Gorge, it was cold and dark. The two shipwreck survivors were taken to Glenample Station to recover. Eva stayed at the station for six weeks before returning to Ireland by steamship. In Melbourne, Tom Pearce received a hero's welcome. He was presented with the first gold medal of the Royal Humane Society of Victoria and a £1000 cheque from the Victorian Government. Concerts were performed to honour the young man's bravery and to raise money for those who lost family in the disaster. Of the 54 crew members and passengers on board, only two survived: the apprentice, Tom Pearce and the young woman passenger, Eva Carmichael, who lost her family in the tragedy. Ten days after the Loch Ard tragedy, salvage rights to the wreck were sold at auction for £2,120. Cargo valued at £3,000 was salvaged and placed on the beach, but most washed back into the sea when another storm developed. The wreck of Loch Ard still lies at the base of Mutton Bird Island. Much of the cargo has now been salvaged and some items were washed up into Loch Ard Gorge. Cargo and artefacts have also been illegally salvaged over many years before protective legislation was introduced in March 1982. One of the most unlikely pieces of cargo to have survived the shipwreck was a Minton majolica peacock- one of only nine in the world. The peacock was destined for the Melbourne 1880 International Exhibition in. It had been well packed, which gave it adequate protection during the violent storm. Today the Minton peacock can be seen at the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum in Warrnambool. From Australia's most dramatic shipwreck it has now become Australia's most valuable shipwreck artifact and is one of very few 'objects' on the Victorian State Heritage Register.The shipwreck of the Loch Ard is of significance for Victoria and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Register ( S 417). Flagstaff Hill has a varied collection of artefacts from Loch Ard and its collection is significant for being one of the largest accumulation of artefacts from this notable Victorian shipwreck. The collections object is to also give us a snapshot into history so we are able to interpret the story of this tragic event. The collection is also archaeologically significant as it represents aspects of Victoria's shipping history that allows us to interpret Victoria's social and historical themes of the time. The collections historically significance is that it is associated unfortunately with the worst and best-known shipwreck in Victoria's history. Brass gas light tap with fancy metal work on the end. Recovered from the wreck of the Loch Ard. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, loch line, loch ard, captain gibbs, eva carmichael, tom pearce, glenample station, mutton bird island, loch ard gorge, brass gas tap, gas tap, light fitting -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Tool - Hammer small sledge, c1900
A hammer is a tool consisting of a weighted "head" fixed to a long handle that is swung to deliver an impact to a small area of an object. This is a small sledgehammer whose relatively light weight and short handle allow single-handed use. It is useful for light demolition work, driving masonry nails, and for use with a steel chisel when cutting stone or metal. Among the early settlers in Moorabbin Shire were blacksmiths who made tools for the other settlers who were establishing the homes, market gardens, farms, orchards and various businesses. Early settlers were self reliant and repaired their own equipment for kitchen,dairy, farm, horses, carts using various tools . This hammer is typical of the type used by early settlers in Moorabbin Shire c1900This is a small sledge hammer with a wood handle and double sided round metal headearly settlers, market gardeners, blacksmiths, tools, building equipment, hammers, moorabbin shire, bentleigh, mckinnon, highett, cheltenham,mcewan james pty ltd, melbourne, bunnings pty ltd, -
Orbost & District Historical Society
medications, mid to second half 20th century
These items were available for sale by chemists in Orbost. Chemists who worked in Orbost included Henry Cottman; James Alfred Dubois Williams; Harry Arthur Murray; Miss P.E .Mason (Phyllis Estelle?); Miss Sybil Monica Buzza; Thomas James Frayer; Australia Shaw; James David Torley; John William Zimmer; Dalkeith William Steele; William Thomas Hollingsworth; E.E. Cohen; R.S. Anderson; Frances John Perry Faith Everard Pardew and Charles Anthony Wurf.The practices of early pharmacists are revealed through these glass bottles. The items have a clear association with Orbost. Seven packaged medications / ointments.Inside 3215.1 is a small brown glass jar with a white plastic lid. It is labelled " Zimmer's Cuprese Ointment". The contents are unused and have a use by date label June 95.The box is white with black and white print on bands of blue and green. 3215.2 is a white cardboard box with red and black print. It contains a 60 g unused tube of "Akileine ionisee". 3215.3 is an orange and white cardboard box with black print. It contains a narrow green glass bottle of oil with a black plastic lid and is labelled "OLBAS".3215.4 is a glass jar with a white plastic lid. It is labelled "NAPRASH CREAM". 3215.5 is a small brown glass jar with a white metal screw lid. On the label is "SKIN BALM". 3215.6 is a very rusted round tin with a painted label on the front "French Corn Cure" in gold print. 3215.7 is a rectangular shaped tin with rounded corners. It is light green with a painted label on the lid "SIMPSON"S CAMPHOR ICE".pharmacies-orbost medications chemist skin-remedies -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Clothes brush & case
Clothes brushes are still used today but they were of more importance in the days when white collar workers, both men and women, wore suits and hats and tailored clothing to work and these required frequent brushing to keep them looking good as they were not washable items. Formal work clothes were more likely to be worn, particularly by men, in the 20th century up to about 1970. This case with two brushes would have been used particularly in times of travel. This item is retained as an example of a household item of the past and will be useful for display purposes..1 -This is a brown oval-shaped leather piece rolled over to make a container or case. It has a leather and metal strap and buckle stitched into the front of the case. The leather case is slightly worn and stained. .2 & .3. -The case contains two oval-shaped clothes brushes that have light brown wooden polished backs with yellow/light brown horse hair tufts attached to the back. .1 - L 14 cm. W 8.5 cm. D 8 cm. .2 & .3 - L 12. 5 cm. W 8 cm. D 3.5 cm. household items, history of warrnambool -
Montsalvat
Chandelier, Untitled
Iron chandelier with central cross and decorative design and eight radiating spokes containing light bulbs. Nonematcham skipper, metal work, chandelier -
Vision Australia
Photograph - Image, Rainforest copper etching
Rectangular (hand tooled) worked (raised) copper plaque on wooden base in dark wood frame with light wood edges. (Eight sided backing). Metal name plate on base. Design on copper of trees/ leaves/ plants. Two screws and wire on reverse side of base for hanging. "Doris Long" written on masking tape on rear, however creator is unknown.1 x digital image of copper wall hangingRainforest Doris Longrecreation, association for the blind -
Vision Australia
Plaque - Object, Guiding Light plate, 1964?
The plaque believed to have been attached to the Guiding Light structure, which was installed at AFB's Brighton office due to the efforts of President Bruce Small. Although removed some years ago, the structure was a symbol used by the Association for the Blind as a visual way to represent it's work within the community. 1 metal plate with engraving "This Guiding Light symbol of the Association for the Blind was donated by Bruce Small, Esq. Member of Committee 1944-1954. President 1954-1964. Honorary Counsellor 1964-"association for the blind, fundraising, nameplates -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Tool - Torch, 1935-1960
Diver's Submarine Electric Torches were first developed to give illumination for close examination work. They have to be self-contained, the older ones are powered by an accumulator type battery which could be recharged. Some models were fitted with a switch to turn the light off saving on the battery power. The lens is of a convex type and magnifies the light. Sometimes there was a protective grill across the glass or prongs to protect the glass from an impact. When fully charged the battery would last about seven hours. Torches are made from non-ferrous metal so as not to corrode in their watery environment. Siebe Gorman & Co Ltd has been producing hand-held, battery-powered, submarine electric torches for divers and the Ministry of Defence (MOD) since the 1920s. In 1961, the famous diving manufacturer C.E. Heinke merged with Siebe Gorman, and for a short while, torches were made with the combined 'Siebe Heinke' inscription. However, this linked inscription was later dropped, with a return to the Siebe Gorman name tag. Date of manufacture for these torches can be determined by their Admiralty Pattern (AP) number that was used to identify a particular item and were for naval stores use. Before NATO stock coding became more widely used, earlier MOD torches often have a simple four-digit group of AP numbers such as AP4456 or AP4458. In 1975 Siebe Gorman moved from their Neptune Works at Chessington in Surrey to a new location at Cwmbran in Wales and by this time their manufacture of diving equipment had declined. (For additional historic company information on Siebe & Gorman see notes section this document.)The item is significant as it gives us a snapshot into marine history and the development of diving equipment generally, especially that used for salvage operations before and during WW2. The company that made the torch Siebe Gorman was a leading inventor, developer and innovator of marine equipment with its early developments in helmets, compressors and other diving equipment. Items that are today eagerly sought after for maritime collections around the world. The items that have been donated to the Flagstaff Hill collection give us an insight as to how divers operated and the dangers they faced doing a very necessary and dangerous job.Diver's Torch brass with heavy glass screw on piece with four lugs attached contact spring inside. Leather hand strap missing."Siebe Gorman and Co Ltd, Makers, London." Has "A.P.4458" inscribed on front above glassflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, siebe, gorman, diver's torch, torch, diver, diving accessories -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Gas Tap, ca 1878
History of the Loch Ard: The Loch Ard got it’s name from ”Loch Ard” a loch which lies to the west of Aberfoyle, and to the east of Loch Lomond. It means "high lake" in Scottish Gaelic.The vessel belonged to the famous Loch Line which sailed many vessels from England to Australia. The Loch Ard was built in Glasgow by Barclay, Curdle and Co. in 1873, the vessel was a three-masted square-rigged iron sailing ship that measured 79.87 meters in length, 11.58 m in width, and 7 m in depth with a gross tonnage of 1693 tons with a mainmast that measured a massive 45.7 m in height. Loch Ard made three trips to Australia and one trip to Calcutta before its fateful voyage. Loch Ard left England on March 2, 1878, under the command of 29-year-old Captain Gibbs, who was newly married. The ship was bound for Melbourne with a crew of 37, plus 17 passengers. The general cargo reflected the affluence of Melbourne at the time. Onboard were straw hats, umbrella, perfumes, clay pipes, pianos, clocks, confectionery, linen and candles, as well as a heavier load of railway irons, cement, lead and copper. There were other items included that were intended for display in the Melbourne International Exhibition of 1880. The voyage to Port Phillip was long but uneventful. Then at 3 am on June 1, 1878, Captain Gibbs was expecting to see land. But the Loch Ard was running into a fog which greatly reduced visibility. Captain Gibbs was becoming anxious as there was no sign of land or the Cape Otway lighthouse. At 4 am the fog lifted and a lookout aloft announced that he could see breakers. The sheer cliffs of Victoria's west coast came into view, and Captain Gibbs realised that the ship was much closer to them than expected. He ordered as much sail to be set as time would permit and then attempted to steer the vessel out to sea. On coming head-on into the wind, the ship lost momentum, the sails fell limp and Loch Ard's bow swung back towards land. Gibbs then ordered the anchors to be released in an attempt to hold its position. The anchors sank some 50 fathoms - but did not hold. By this time the ship was among the breakers and the tall cliffs of Mutton Bird Island rose behind. Just half a mile from the coast, the ship's bow was suddenly pulled around by the anchor. The captain tried to tack out to sea, but the ship struck a reef at the base of Mutton Bird Island, near Port Campbell. Waves subsequently broke over the ship and the top deck became loosened from the hull. The masts and rigging came crashing down knocking passengers and crew overboard. When a lifeboat was finally launched, it crashed into the side of Loch Ard and capsized. Tom Pearce, who had launched the boat, managed to cling to its overturned hull and shelter beneath it. He drifted out to sea and then on the flood tide came into what is now known as Loch Ard Gorge. He swam to shore, bruised and dazed, and found a cave in which to shelter. Some of the crew stayed below deck to shelter from the falling rigging but drowned when the ship slipped off the reef into deeper water. Eva Carmichael a passenger had raced onto the deck to find out what was happening only to be confronted by towering cliffs looming above the stricken ship. In all the chaos, Captain Gibbs grabbed Eva and said, "If you are saved Eva, let my dear wife know that I died like a sailor". That was the last Eva Carmichael saw of the captain. She was swept off the ship by a huge wave. Eva saw Tom Pearce on a small rocky beach and yelled to attract his attention. He dived in and swam to the exhausted woman and dragged her to shore. He took her to the cave and broke the open case of brandy which had washed up on the beach. He opened a bottle to revive the unconscious woman. A few hours later Tom scaled a cliff in search of help. He followed hoof prints and came by chance upon two men from nearby Glenample Station three and a half miles away. In a complete state of exhaustion, he told the men of the tragedy. Tom then returned to the gorge while the two men rode back to the station to get help. By the time they reached Loch Ard Gorge, it was cold and dark. The two shipwreck survivors were taken to Glenample Station to recover. Eva stayed at the station for six weeks before returning to Ireland by steamship. In Melbourne, Tom Pearce received a hero's welcome. He was presented with the first gold medal of the Royal Humane Society of Victoria and a £1000 cheque from the Victorian Government. Concerts were performed to honour the young man's bravery and to raise money for those who lost family in the disaster. Of the 54 crew members and passengers on board, only two survived: the apprentice, Tom Pearce and the young woman passenger, Eva Carmichael, who lost her family in the tragedy. Ten days after the Loch Ard tragedy, salvage rights to the wreck were sold at auction for £2,120. Cargo valued at £3,000 was salvaged and placed on the beach, but most washed back into the sea when another storm developed. The wreck of Loch Ard still lies at the base of Mutton Bird Island. Much of the cargo has now been salvaged and some items were washed up into Loch Ard Gorge. Cargo and artefacts have also been illegally salvaged over many years before protective legislation was introduced in March 1982. One of the most unlikely pieces of cargo to have survived the shipwreck was a Minton majolica peacock- one of only nine in the world. The peacock was destined for the Melbourne 1880 International Exhibition in. It had been well packed, which gave it adequate protection during the violent storm. Today the Minton peacock can be seen at the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum in Warrnambool. From Australia's most dramatic shipwreck it has now become Australia's most valuable shipwreck artifact and is one of very few 'objects' on the Victorian State Heritage Register.The shipwreck of the Loch Ard is of significance for Victoria and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Register ( S 417). Flagstaff Hill has a varied collection of artefacts from Loch Ard and its collection is significant for being one of the largest accumulation of artefacts from this notable Victorian shipwreck. The collections object is to also give us a snapshot into history so we are able to interpret the story of this tragic event. The collection is also archaeologically significant as it represents aspects of Victoria's shipping history that allows us to interpret Victoria's social and historical themes of the time. The collections historically significance is that it is associated unfortunately with the worst and best-known shipwreck in Victoria's history. Brass gas light tap fitting has fancy metal work at the end. Recovered from the Loch Ard wreck. Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, loch line, loch ard, captain gibbs, eva carmichael, tom pearce, glenample station, mutton bird island, loch ard gorge, gas tap, brass gas tap -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Machine - Voice Recorder, Thomas A. Edison, Edison Laboratory, 1916-1929
This Edison Ediphone voice recording electronic business machine is manufactured to suit a small office and is light enough to carry between work and home for use outside normal business hours. It is a dictation machine, also called by the competitor’s brand name ‘Dictaphone’, and is used for recording spoken words that would later be transcribed and typewritten. A wax cylinder would be installed onto the machine’s drum and the Reproducer on the machine would be lowered onto the cylinder. The user would speak a message into a microphone and the reproducer would then convert the sounds to scribed marks on the cylinder. Later, the cylinder could be played and the Reproducer would enable the sound to be amplified through an attached speaker. This machine is currently without its power cord, microphone and speaker horn. Thomas A. Edison extended the technology of the telegraph to his phonograph machine, invented in the late 19th century. It could record and play back sounds of music and voice on a manually operated mechanical machine that used wax cylinders to store the sound. He envisaged the way this technology could be an asset in the office, and he was right! However, most of his phonograph machines were used for entertainment, some for playing lessons, and some for-teaching languages. In 1916 Edison introduced the Ediphone, which grew in popularity after the First World War and into the late 1920s until flat round records replaced the wax cylinders. This Edison Ediphone is significant for improving the way business administration was carried out in the early 20th century, freeing up precious time for professionals and administrative personnel. It was the forerunner of audio tapes and digital technology. The Ediphone enabled letters to be dictated when the time and place suited and reduced the time professionals needed to spend with their secretaries. Secretaries were able to type the letters as they played the recording and they could replay the message if necessary.Voice recorder; a dictation machine; desktop model Edison Ediphone. The electronic machine is in a medal case with remnants of the original grey colour. It has a rectangular base with an A4-sized footprint and a domed hood that retracts halfway into the back of the base. The corners of the base have metal reinforcing, and a short metal bar is on the front centre edge of the lid and the base. A long metal drum is mounted inside the machine. A round device called a ‘reproducer’ is mounted above the drum. There is a folding handle on the left front of the machine and an angled stand with paper guides in front of the drum. A rear cover has the maker’s name stamped on it. An electrical socket with eight pins is recessed beside the cover. Made by Edison.In white letters; “EDISON”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, edison, ediphone, dictating machine, office equipment, voice recorder, usa, dictation, communication, office machine, dictaphone, speaking phonograph, thomas edison, ediphone voicewriter, voice writer -
Yarra Glen & District Historical Society
Badges, Stokes, c.1958
The 'Back to Yarra Glen' event was held on the Australia day weekend, 1959. Badge is circular with filigree work around the outer rim. The inner circle has a picture of the Yarra Glen bridge over the light blue river with the dark blue mountains in the background and green river bank in the foreground. There are green trees at each end of the gold bridge. The sky is white. On the green grass foreground is the date 1959. Above the mountains are the words 'Back to Yarra Glen'. The diameter is 2.5 centimetres. It is made of pressed metal, maybe brass, with gold colouring around the outer edge and back. On the front of the badge "Back to Yarra Glen" is across the top and "1959" on the bottom. "Stokes Melb" is on the back -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Tool - Torch, 1935-1960
Diver's Submarine Electric Torches were first developed to give illumination for close examination work. They have to be self-contained, the older ones are powered by an accumulator type battery which could be recharged. Some models were fitted with a switch to turn the light off saving on the battery power. The lens is of a convex type and magnifies the light. Sometimes there was a protective grill across the glass or prongs to protect the glass from an impact. When fully charged the battery would last about seven hours. Torches are made from non-ferrous metal so as not to corrode in their watery environment. Siebe Gorman & Co Ltd has been producing hand-held, battery-powered, submarine electric torches for divers and the Ministry of Defence (MOD) since the 1920s. In 1961, the famous diving manufacturer C.E. Heinke merged with Siebe Gorman, and for a short while, torches were made with the combined 'Siebe Heinke' inscription. However, this linked inscription was later dropped, with a return to the Siebe Gorman name tag. Date of manufacture for these torches can be determined by their Admiralty Pattern (AP) number that was used to identify a particular item and were for naval stores use. Before NATO stock coding became more widely used, earlier MOD torches often have a simple four-digit group of AP numbers such as AP4456 or AP4458. In 1975 Siebe Gorman moved from their Neptune Works at Chessington in Surrey to a new location at Cwmbran in Wales and by this time their manufacture of diving equipment had declined. (For additional historic company information on Siebe & Gorman see notes section this document.)The item is significant as it gives us a snapshot into marine history and the development of diving equipment generally, especially that used for salvage operations before and during WW2. The company that made the torch Siebe Gorman was a leading inventor, developer and innovator of marine equipment with its early developments in helmets, compressors and other diving equipment. Items that are today eagerly sought after for maritime collections around the world. The items that have been donated to the Flagstaff Hill collection give us an insight as to how divers operated and the dangers they faced doing a very necessary and dangerous job.Divers torch, brass with glass lens , screw on piece with three lugs attached. Leather wrist strap attached & loose contact spring inside."Siebe Gorman and Co Ltd, Makers, London." Has A.P.4456 stamped on front faceflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Ledger, Swintons Ledger, 1960s
This ledger was used in the Warrnambool business of Swintons Pty Ltd. It contains the records of financial statements for the years 1969 to 1978 – rates and taxes accounts, trial balances and accounts for light and power, wages etc. William and Ann Swinton migrated to Australia in 1854 and for a decade William Swinton worked as a builder and carpenter in the Warrnambool area, erecting many buildings including the Wangoom Presbyterian Church. In 1865 he opened a store in Timor Street Warrnambool, selling groceries, china and glass ware and hardware. By 1888 the business was known as William Swinton and Sons. Branch stores were opened in Cudgee, Nullawarre, Wangoom, South Warrnambool and West Warrnambool. After William Swinton died his son Robert became the first managing director of Swintons Pty Ltd. In 1934 the business split with George Swinton and Sons selling furnishings, clothing and glassware and Swintons Pty Ltd selling seeds, produce and hardware. Today the Swinton family still operates a furniture and bedding store in Timor Street. This ledger is of considerable interest as it contains much important information on the financial operations of Swintons Pty Ltd in the 1960s and 70s. This information will be very useful to researchers. The current Swinton business in Timor Street is the oldest family business in Warrnambool and, with the name Swinton associated with Timor Street businesses for 152 years, it is among the oldest family businesses in Australia. This is a hard cover book with a green cover and a green mottled patterning inside the cover. The pages are held in the cover by two metal studs. There are white and yellow pages which have A to Z tabs on the side. The pages have printed blue lines. The entries are handwritten in blue ink with some pencil entries.swinton family, warrnambool, history of warrnambool -
Mount Evelyn History Group
Souvenir boomerang, Russell Stokes, 1967
The boomerang commemorates the successful 1967 election campaign of Russell Stokes, MLA for Evelyn 1958-1973. It was manufactured by his family's firm, Stokes Australasia Limited. Russell Stokes' home was 'Lubra Bend', Yarra Glen.The boomerang is both a souvenir of an election campaign by a long-serving member of the Parliament of Victoria and an example of metal and enamel work by a Ringwood company that is now over 150 years old. See also item 2003.Stainless steel miniature boomerang with round enamel badge, light blue with dark blue border and gold lettering on bend. In plastic display sleeve, blue back, clear front.Sleeve has 'Stokes' in white lettering.russell stokes, metals, badges, souvenirs, evelyn, ringwood, lubra bend, yarra glen, parliament of victoria. -
The 5th/6th Battalion Royal Victoria Regiment Historical Collection
Work on paper - Artwork- Print, Four Scottish Soldiers
White front, backing on a metal frame, plastic cover on front. "1. Print of Highland Light Infantry, 2. Print of Royal Scots, 3. Print of Scots Fusiliers, 4. Kings own Scottish Borderers." regimental property, 5/6 rvr, vsr, scottish -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Functional object - Gladstone Bag c. 1900s
This is a suitcase known as a Gladstone bag. It is named after William Gladstone (1809-1898), a Prime Minister of England. Gladstone bags were first produced by Edward Cole in London in 1854. These bags were commonly used, mainly by men, for business, work and sporting purposes. As it was compact and stored a large amount of material , it was a popular choice for men travelling to their workplace or carrying clothes and equipment to sporting event.This bag has significance as it was widely used by men throughout Australia. The original owner of this bag was a police officer in Bright, Victoria, although it is typical of those used by many local men in their daily life.This is a small suitcase, called a Gladstone bag, made of stiffened brown leather built over a rigid metal frame. It has a leather handle on top of the metal frame and a metal lock on the side of the frame. There are metal clips at each end of the frame.. Metal straps attached to the sides of the case. The bag is lined with light blue material and there are two pockets on one side of the bag, It is accompanied by a matching leather address label.gladstone bag, luggage, work bag -
Parks Victoria - Point Hicks Lightstation
Weights
A small number of heavy cast iron weights and two rods remain at the Point Hicks. The weights and rods were part of the original clockwork mechanism that was fitted beneath the lens to keep the kerosene-fuelled light turning. They were attached to a cable or chains and moved vertically in similar fashion to the way weights move on grandfather clocks. As the weight fell, the optic clock was driven and the lens was turned. To keep the clock turning, the weight needed to be wound back up to the top of its travel. The cables and weights in this lighthouse were visible as they moved through the length of the tower up to the lantern room. It was usual for systems to move inside a tube extending up to the top, but in this case the tower’s cast iron spiral staircase, which is supported on cantilever cast iron brackets set into the concrete wall, spiralled around the space in which they moved. Lighthouse keepers had the arduous job of having to constantly wind the clock to keep the light active, and at least two keepers needed to observe a strict roster of hours. When electric motors were invented, all of this became redundant and the motors were able to turn the optic for as long as there was power to drive them. In December 1964, the original 1890 Chance Bros kerosene-fuelled light and clockwork mechanism were replaced by small electric motor, and the number of keepers reduced to two. The six circular weights and rods originate from the obsolete system and may have been part of a larger set. Wilsons Promontory retains seven of its original set of ten weights, all of which are detached from the tower’s weight tube. Cape Schanck has a set of fourteen weights remaining in situ as well as another four detached weights, which have inscriptions . One weight is displayed in the lantern room at Cape Otway. The Point Hicks weights have first level contributory significance for the insights they provide into the superseded technology and operations of a late nineteenth century lighthouse. They are well provenanced and are significant for their historic value as part of the lightstation’s Chance Brothers optical system installed in 1890.PHLS0005.1 Round cast iron weight with flat base used for lens clock-work mechanism attached to a bent metal rod. PHLS0005.2 Removable round cast iron weight with flat base used for lens clock-work mechanism stored above the other weight. -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Digital image, c.1930
The name of the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) After-Care 'Home', changed to 'Hospital' in 1934 and major extensions occurred in 1936.Melbourne District Nursing society (MDNS) opened the After-Care Home, situated at 39 Victoria Parade Collingwood in 1926 following a public appeal for funds. The name changed from MDNS 'Home' to 'Hospital' in 1934. The After-Care Home was originally established to provide nurse-managed convalescent care to poor and underprivileged people who could not look after themselves at home due to illness or on release from hospital. Opening in 1926, at a cost of £27,000, the Home included maternity, children’s and adult wards as well as accommodation for Matron, twelve nurses and four domestic staff. In 1930 an ante-natal clinic was opened at the home. During 1934 the Women’s Welfare Clinic including, at the time, a very controversial Family Planning Clinic, the first of its kind in Australia, was opened to support women at risk following multiple and difficult pregnancies. Major extensions occurred in 1936. Following Government intervention, the After-Care Hospital was separated from the Melbourne District Nursing Society in 1957 and the District division of Melbourne District Nursing Society became the Melbourne District Nursing Service and relocated to 452 St Kilda Road, Melbourne. Following Royal patronage in 1966 this became the Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS). The After-care Hospital continued to operate at the same address in Collingwood until 1985 when it became the Melbourne Geriatric Centre. Black and white digital image taken of the rear of the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) After-Care Home showing, on the right, part of a three story section of the brick built new wing. Long windows are seen along each storey separated by brick work. Above each window is a wide light strip. Attached to this wing is a narrow three storey section with one long window, with light top strip, shown on each storey. Attached to the left of this are three walkways running to the left of the image. Tall metal handrails run along each walkway. In the background beyond the lowest walkway, part of a hip roof building and a leafy tree can be seen.melbourne district nursing society, after- care hospital, after care home, rdns, royal district nursing service -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Photograph, black and white, 09.1944
The 'Melbourne District Nursing Society After Care Home' was built by MDNS in 1926 and the name changed from 'Care' to 'Hospital' in 1934. It was located at 45 Victoria Parade, Collingwood. This photograph is taken three years after Miss Dorothy Tupper was appointed Matron of the District Nursing Division of the Society in 1941. The Sisters in this Division worked in the community giving nursing care to people in their own homes.From its foundation in 1885 the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS, were instrumental in giving care to their patients, and to assist them if they had financial problems or resided in poor living conditions. Miss Dorothy Tupper, who as a Trained nurse, had undertaken a course in hospital housekeeping at London Prince of Wales Hospital, was contacted by MDNS in 1939 and, possessing both business and humanitarian qualities, was asked to organize their newly established Social Service Department. As the MDNS Social Service Sister, she assessed the living conditions in patient's homes. She continued in this role until being appointed Matron of the Society's District Nursing division in 1941. Matron Dorothy Tupper announced her retirement in December 1962. As Matron for 22 years she played a major role in the employment and management of an ever increasing nursing workforce as well as help oversee the expansion of the service. Matron Tupper was known for her keen sense of duty, her high professional standards and never-failing concern for patients. The photograph was taken by Sun Newspaper photographer and appeared in an article about the MDNS in September 1944Black and white photograph showing Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) Matron, Dorothy Tupper, standing side on, and to the left, of three District Trained nurses (Sisters) who are seated in the grounds of the After-Care Hospital. Matron Tupper is wearing a light coloured uniform which has a belt and a centre box pleat on the lower part of the skirt; a grey brimmed hat with a darker grey hat band sits over her short dark hair. She is looking down at the first Sister on the seat who is looking up at her. The Sisters at either end of the seat are wearing dark grey double breasted coats with lapels; the collars of their light colour uniforms can be seen. Both are wearing grey brimmed hats over their short dark hair. The Sister at the far end is wearing glasses and the Sister near Matron Tupper is holding a book. The centre Sister has shoulder length dark hair and is wearing a light coloured long sleeve uniform. She is also holding a book. Both these Sisters are looking toward Matron Tupper. The seat is made of wood and is against the concrete veranda of the building behind. Scrolled metal lace work is directly behind them with a round thin concrete post to the left of Matron Tupper and the other end of the lace work is fixed to the concrete square corner columns. One turns to the right and the concrete wall of the veranda attached can be seen running in front of part of the brick wall of the building.after- care hospital, melbourne district nursing society, mdns, nurses, matron, mdns social service department, rdns, royal district nursing service, matron dorothy tupper -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Digital image, 07.05.1937
This sepia digital image shows the Austin car which was donated to the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) in !937 by the Rotary Club of Victoria. It was used by the Matron of the MDNS District Division to visit patients weekly. The photograph is taken outside the MDNS Headquarters at 39 Victoria Parade, Collingwood. The photograph appeared along with an article in The Age Friday May 7, 1937. The photograph appeared in the MDNS Annual Report of 1937. On page 8, mention is made of J.D Johnston Esq, President of the Rotary Club of Victoria, presenting the Austin vehicle to MDNS. Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS) has had various modes of transport over the last 130 plus years. At first, from 1885 as Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS), their Trained nurses (Nurses) walked the streets and lane ways amid the slums of central Melbourne. As the Society expanded public transport was used, and bicycles were bought by the Society in 1903 and used in inner areas until 1945. During the Spanish flu epidemic, in 1919, MDNS appealed for assistance to procure Motor vehicles so the Nurses could visit an influx of cases. Through trusts, grants and donations four 'Ford T Model' cars were procured which enabled the Nurses to triple their visits. Through constant use the cars were in such a poor state two were sold in 1922 and the others later. In 1922-23 three Peugeot cars were purchased and a woman Chauffeur, 'Miss Sword', was employed who lived in the Home and was also in charge of the garage. MDNS was expanding and a Motor Auxiliary was formed in 1929 to take the Trained nurses (Sisters) to patients, and some Sisters used their own cars; even a motorcycle was used by one Sister in 1933. All these forms of transport were intermingled and in the early 1950s, and now as Melbourne District Nursing Service, seven Ford Prefect cars were bought followed by twelve Ford Anglia cars 1955. Having received Royal patronage; the now Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS) had its own fleet of Holden vehicles by the mid 1960s and the Motor Auxiliary ceased operating in 1971 as by then all staff employed were required to have a driving licence. Seat-belts had been introduced to Victoria in 1959 and District fitted them to their cars from 1962, even though they did not become compulsory until 1970. The Holden vehicles were replaced with grey Holden Torana vehicles. After several years the fleet was changed to white Toyota Corolla vehicles. The Melways Directory of maps was introduced in 1966, which was a boon to the Sisters, though it was a few years before it went beyond Seville, so a large paper map was used by the Sisters visiting patients in the areas passed Seville. By 2009 there were 598 cars in the fleet and the Sisters travelled 9 million 200,000 kilometres – this is equivalent to 12 trips to the moon and back. In the foreground of this sepia photograph is a side-on view of a four door 1937 style small grey car with a nose shaped bonnet, parked on the road beside the kerb with the headlight facing to the right of the photograph.The bonnet joins onto a straight windscreen which adjoins a slightly curved hood running back along the car. This adjoins a back window which joins onto the sloping rear body of the car with a small protruding boot. Windows are seen above the body work of both facing doors and a smaller sloping window above the body work and rear wheel arch. On the drivers door is a Maltese cross and the words "Melbourne District" written above the Maltese cross and "Nursing Society" below it. In front of this door the body work forms a wheel arch and the headlight is attached between this body work and the bonnet. Rubber tyred wheels with solid hub caps are seen below each wheel arch. On the footpath, behind the bonnet of the car, four Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) Trained nurses (Sisters) are standing. They are wearing dark grey coats over their grey uniforms with white collars, and brimmed grey hats with a Maltese cross on the light coloured headband. The Sister on the right has her left hand gripping the handle on top of her oblong nursing case. A metal spiked fence is behind the Sisters, which runs to the left into one of the two square concrete columns which sit either side of a path. A hedge is behind the fence, and behind this part of a building with three arched windows can be seen. A white plaque is attached to the fence near one of the columns.mdns, melbourne district nursing society, rotary club of victoria, mdns transport, rdns, royal district nursing service, rdns transport -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Photograph, black and white, Barry Sutton, 24.06.1971
The photograph of the Commission Van is taken at the RDNS Service Centre at Chessell Street, South Melbourne. The three men are employed by the Royal District Nursing Service.In 1971 the Commission shop donated a Van to the Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), to be used by the Maintenance crew for delivery of equipment and transporting goods and documents between RDNS Centres and Headquarters. It was also used for transporting Maintenance staff and the equipment they required to do maintenance work at RDNS Centres as needed. The Commission Van was kept at the RDNS Service Centre at Chessell Street, South Melbourne.Black and white photograph showing the side view of the Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), Commission Van. The white snub nose Van, which has a closed passenger door and another further along, is standing with its front close to a brick building and sits on brick paving which extends onto earth. Three short windows can be seen along the top quarter of the Van. Both back doors are open. Mr. J. Grigg, with receding dark hair, is standing to the left of the photograph near the rear door, and has his hands on the hand grips of a wheelchair. Mr. J. Greet, is standing in the back of the van with his hands on the metal handles of a square metal commode as he hands it to Mr. Pincher, who has wavy short hair and is standing on the ground to his right. He has his hands on the main body of the commode. The three men are wearing their grey work coats over their clothes. In the background part of a two story dark brick building can be seen. On the ground floor, on the left, part of a dark door can be seen with a small window immediately above it, and further.above this is some light fan shaped brick work, three vertical bricks in height. To its right part of a window with the same brickwork can be seen and to the right along the building is part of a window with arched light brickwork followed by more brickwork and part of a door. Black pipework runs down some of the brickwork. Above the brickwork runs a row of light colour material, and above this part of the upper section in grey concrete can be seen.Photographers stamp. Quote No. KH 80mr j grigg, mr. j. greet, mr pincher, rdns equipment, royal district nursing service, rdns, rdns maintenance -
Beechworth Cemetery Trust
Functional object - Beechworth Cemetery Rotunda, Rotunda
Wooden octagonal outdoor structure with red iron and oregon pine roof, cream painted iron lace work, 8 green metal pillars, red wooden finial, light green wooden storage room, light green wooden seat all around the storage room. Window without glass opposite door. Tap attached to a pillar right hand side of door. Metal rubbish bin near outdoor seating between 2 back pillars. Asphalt flooring and stone curbing.Cemetery map in glass cabinet on storage wall left hand side of door. There are 4 small stainless steel plaques on right hand wall near window - Margaret Carlton, John Holt, Bob Simpson and Rob Goodwin.