Showing 48 items matching pottery classes
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Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...pottery class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...pottery class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...pottery class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...pottery class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...Pottery Class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...pottery class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...pottery class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October 1988, 1988
... Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning Centre, October...pottery class... melbourne Photograph Pottery Class, Eltham Living and Learning ...Roll of 35mm colour negative film, 6 stripsFuji 100classes, eltham, living and learning centre, pottery class -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book - Scrapbook, Ballarat School of Mines Scrapbook 1921-1924, 1921-1924
The clippings in this book relate to the Ballarat School of Mines. Hard covered scrapbook with newspaper clippings relating to the Ballarat School of Mines.ballarat school of mines, scrapbook, ballarat technical art school, clay, ceramics, pottery, native clay, maurice copland, h.h. smith, c.h. beanland, technical schools, albert e. dowling, john dulfer, jenkin swimming shield, r.s. dale, j.y. mcdonald, a.f. heseltine, stained glass windows, amalie feild, richard dale, ballarat school of mines museum, ballarat junior secondary school, war criminal trials, j.f. crichton, repatriation department, w.o.f. close, soldiers vocational classes, world war one, alexander peacock, ballarat junior technical school opening, effie holmes, cornell chemist, w.k. moss, ken moss, obituary, j. vickery, w.d. hill, r.w. richards, shackelton, antarctic exploration, t.h. trengrove, samuel mayo, vera lindsay, bessie robertson, victor greenhalgh, repatriation classes closure, repatriation classes termination, university college, vocational training, arbor day, j.b. corbet, ballarat school of mines procession, ballarat junior technical school honour board, harold herbert, albert steane, a.w. steane, francis davis, tree planting, clyde lukeis, trade classes, old boys association, alfred james higgin, blackill color and oxide company, electric supply company, state school exhibition, state education jubilee, scholarships, clay deposits, james coad, t.a. williams, copland memorial, e.j. mcconnon, alfred mica smith, ponsonby carew smyth, d. maxwell, lena rutherford, dorothy whitehead, examination results, geoffrey nicholls, robert dowling, j.b. robinson, percy trompf, j.c. bush, white flat reserve, rubbish tip, sports ground, broken hill excursion, old boy's association, school of mines procession, white flat improvements, empire exhibition, ballarat school of mines literary society, school reunion, john rowell, d.e. mullins, g. renkin, t.m. shattock, new law courts, supreme court building transferred to ballarat school of mines, buildings, ballarat state offices, ballarat school of mines museum closed, ballarat school of mines and industries, k.b. brown, sir r. garran, alf hannah, macrobertson scholarship, simone fraser, violet hambley, alfred bayley, j. heriot, c.r. pittock, i.r. bradshaw, ballarat exhbition, e. parkin, c.m. harris, mica smith bust, william henry nicholls, daniel walker, paul montford, w.h. corbould, j.w. sutherland, technical training for girls, girls education, amalie colquhoun, ken moss obituary, opening of the ballarat junior technical school, j.s. vickery, j.s. vickery obituary, ida v. johnson, john rowell exhibition, max meldrum, w.g. coates, g.f. fitches, walter white, sewerage plumbing, villers brettonneux school -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Federation University Historical Collection
Photograph - Photograph - black and white, Ballarat School of Mines Ceramics Class, early 1940s
Ceramics was taught at the Ballarat School of Mines Technical Arts School. A number of ceramics students work in the Ballarat School of Mines Technical Art School Ceramics Studio. Six students sit at a work bench undertake handbuilt pottery. Five students sit at pottery wheels, while tutor Neville Bunning stands and oversees (far right corner).ballarat school of mines, ballarat technical art school, art, ceramics, pottery, neville bunning, visual arts -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book - Documents, Herbert Henry Smith, Ballarat Technical Art School, 1918-1929
Blue hard covered book with hand written reports from the Art Principal, H.H. Principal. Two letters are pasted into the front, one from Frank Tate of the Victorian Education Department. 26 April 1918 - Proposed pottery industry in Ballarat 31 May 1919 - Erection of pottery kiln, with Selkirk bricks. 28 June 1918 - Daylesford Technical Art School. 30 August 1918 - Resignation of C. Campbell, instructor of Photography. 25 October 1918 - Returned Soldiers Classes in Art Metal and Signwriting. 25 October 1918 - Herald Shield Trophy 28 July 1922 - Ragged Boys Home, Tennis Court 22 August 1924 - Letterhead of the Attorney General Victoria concerning the transfer of the Ballarat Supreme Court to the Ballarat School of Mines. 15 October 1924 and 20 May 1925 - Carvings of 24 panels decorated with Australian birds, animals and flora to form part of the decoratve scheme for the Villers Bretonneux school. 21 April 1926 - White Flat is available for the use of the school. 29 February 1928 - Donation of a linotype machine by The Courier. 27 June 1928 - Internal Sewerage to the Ballarat Technical Art Schoolballarat school of mines, ballarat technical art school, h.h. smith, returned soldier teachers, harold herbert, ponsonby carew-smyth, f.h. hoskin, carpentry workshop, donald i. johnston, herald shield, kenneth moss, hilda wardle, miss bell, margaret bell, millinery, j.y. mcdonald soldiers memorial, john rowell, repatriation building, stained glass classes, dressmaking fees, ballarat supreme court, m. baird, carvings, villers bretonneux school carvings, ethel kift, m.c. young, macrobertson scholarship, elvie ford, edwin robinson, annie hauser, robina mackie, e. quick, tennis court, w.e. gower, colin hunt, white flat, frank hall, effie holmes, mavis beacham, henry harvey, plaster casts, pearl frickie, w.r. dean, marjery henderson, sewerage, laura crouch, ballarat teachers' college, gertie gough, gwen nagle, lynda clark, jack walker, cyril gibbs, repatriation, donald johnston, ceramics, kiln, c. campbell, photography, jean maude, sylvia copperwaite, olga dulfer, may pollock, margaret bailey, stella clarkson, may norrie, nellie nicholls, nancy govan, edith curnow, kathleen windsor, betty johnson, edna pearson, elvie thege, gwen neagle, effie george, gwen tunbridge -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book - Book - ledger, Ballarat School of Mines Council Minutes, 1946-1949
A larger quarter leather bound ledger with handwritten minutes of the Ballarat School of Mines Council. Pg. 8 - Retirement of Principal pg. 17 - Bicycle Accommodation Pg 24 - Visit of Minister of Public Instruction the Hon, F. Field pg. 32 - Interview with A.A. Robertson pg 46 - Congratulations to Ken Palmer for securing the commission for the execution of a bust for the Avenue Prime Ministers at the Ballarat Botanical Gardens. pg 64 - Former Ballarat Supreme Court pg 69 - Red Cross Hut pf 74 - Radio Mechanics pg 104 - Act of Remembrance for BevanA. John Pg 104 - Cobb & Co Coach pg 105 - Site for new Junior Technical School pg 109 - Dr Sydney Pern's collection to Native Weapons pg 120 - The late Bevan A. John pg 122 - Transfer of the Electrical Department to the former Ballarat Supreme Courthouse pg 129 - Pottery room pg 140 - The late D. Maxwell pg 145 - Dr Pound's Resignation pg 146 - Endowment Plantation pg 168 - Art School LIbrary pg 171 - Appointment of Principal - Richard W. Richards pg 237 - Farewell to Dr. J.R. Pound pg 241 - Architecture Course pg 270 - Appointment of E.J. Barker ballarat school of mines, ballarat school of mines minutes, e.j. tippett, m.g. beanland, k. sutton, a. heseltine, n. callow, m.b. john, d. maxwell, ballarat technical art school, bicycle accommodation, hollway, l. lederman, l.j. wilson, linotype machine, harry brew, dressmaking, reconstruction training, f. field, blacksmithing, gas heaters, d. taylor kellock, neville bunning, moulding class, a.a. robertson, gas fired kiln, d.i. johnston, entrance signboard, r.w. richards, kenpalmer, prime ministers avenue, e.g. savage appointment, r. calder resignation, brick class room, red cross hut, radio mechanics, cobb and co coach, a.m. wilkenson, b. bryan, beven a. john obituary, art society, d. maxwell resignation, pern collection of native weapons, ceramics, pottery, donald i. johnston, donald i johnston resignation -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book, Victoria Education Gazette and Teachers' Aid, 1921-1930
The Victoria Education Gazette and Teachers' Aid was published for Victoria's teachers and was sent to all school on the state. In 1920 The Ballarat School of Mines had donated 136 pounds 14 shillings and 10 pence to the Victorian Education Department's War Relief Account, and the Ballarat Junior Technical School had donated 10 pounds 6 shillings and 10 pence.Ten black hard covered volumes with red tape spine, covering 1921 to 1930. The gazettes include Education Department appointments, transfers, resignations and retirements, vacancies, notices, queries, notices of books, examination papers, original articles, lesson plans, suggestions for lessons, drawing, obituaries, notes on nature study, mathematics, music, sloyd woodwork, English grammar, Victorian State School Swimming Clubs, Geography, penmanship, science, History, Latin, Geography, The School Garden, horticulture, singing, World War One; ANZAC Day, lifesaving, Astronomy, Empire Day, ANZAC Buffet London, Victorian Education Department's War Relief Fund .1) 1928. Articles include: New Caledonia, Swimming and Lifesaving, School forestry, a visit to the pyramids, Exploration of Gippsland, paul de Strezelecki, Angus McMillan, Villers Bretonneux Memorial School, American Black Walnut, Red Gum, Messmate Stringybark, The Great Barrier Reef, retirement of Frank Tate, Stawell High School, Report on Some Aspects of Education in the United States, Jubilee Education Exhibition , New School Readers; measured Drawing Images include: Macarthur Street School's Plantation, Maryborough School Plantation, Pinus Insignis (Radiata) ready for Milling, Creswick State Forest, Metalwork, Daylesford Pine Plantation four years old, Henry Harvey (art Inspector); Omeo School Endowment Plantation; Frank Tate; Stawell High School Drawings From Casts; Lake Tyers School Endowment Plantation, measured drawing, Thomas H. Stuart, GEorge Swinburne. J.R. Tantham-Fryer, Cookery Class, John Edward Thomas. .3) War Savings Stampsm Swimming and Life-saving, Teh Rural School System of Victoria, Imaginative Composition, ANZAC Day, Retardation, Teh Bright Child Hudson Hard Obituary, Leeches, Relief for Distress in Europe, Dental, Teachers' Library, History of Portarlington, J.E. Stevens Obituary, Victorian Teachers in England Images: Swimming and Life-Saving Medallion .3) Swimming and Lifesaving, Bronze medallion, Victoria Leage of Victori, War Savings Stamps, Rural School Sytem of Victoria, .4) War Relief, Talbot Colony for Epileptics Masonmeadows, Discipline New and Old (Percy Samson), Soldier teachers, Preservation of Australian Birds, Arbor Day, Jubilee of Free Education, Teaching Geography, Poery in Schools, School Committees, Shelter Pavilion, Mysia Memorial School, Clovers, Jubilee Exhibition, Domestic Arts, Louis Pasteur, .5) Victoria League of Victoria, An Endowment Scheme (Pine Plantations), School Endowment Plantations, Protecting our trees by Owen Jones,. Victorian State Schools Horticultural Society, Sloyd Woodwork, School Forestry, Thomas Brodribb Obituary and portrait, Imperial Education Conference London, school Management and Method, School plantations, Eucalypt plantations in the Bendix and Heathcote District, Junior Red Cross, Jubilee Education Exhibition, Gould League Competitions, handwriting, The School Magazine, Frank Tate in London, Victorian beetles, Council of Public Education, Villers Bretonneux and its new School, Death of Samuel Summons, Woodwork Summer School, Swimming, Japanese Relief Fund, Retirement of John Cross, reminiscences of the Late Mr Albert Mattingley .6) Thomas H. Trengrove and the Villers Bretonneux School hall and pilaster carvings, forestry, visit of Maryborough teachers to Ballarat Water Reserves, noxious weeds, relief for Distressed Europe, The Dalton Plan, Empire Day, Retirement of Mr Fussell, Centenary of Hume and Hovell Expedition, League of Kindness, Effective Nature Study in a Rural School, Some Facts About Paper and their Bearing Upon School Plantations, Council of the Working Men's College Melbourne, Maria Montessori, University Vacation School, Horticulture in State Schools, An Informal Chat About French Schools (C.R. McRae), The Vacation School, Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi, Inspector's Report on a 5th-class School, Can Children Write Verse, John Adams, Victoria League of Victoria, R.F. Toutcher, Sir James Barbie's Address to High-School Girls, Impressions of a High School Teacher Abroad (R.D. Collman), The Spirit of the School Plantation Scheme, Monument of the Late Mr and Mrs A.T. Sharp at Box Hill Cemetery, The Teaching of Geography, The Treatment of Poetry in Class, Two Difficult Arithmetic Lessons, Location of Principal Australian Timbers, Dr John Smyth, Stammering and its Influence on Education, Wireless Broadcasting as an Educational Medium, Boys School at Villers Brettonneux, The New School at Villers Brettonneux, Bird Day, Messmate or Stringybark, What Every Woman Knows, Director's Report on Denmark .7)1925 . Includes: School Forestry, horticulture, J.H. Betheras retirement, Ivanhoe School, Coburg School, Moorabool Junior Technical School, Villers Bretonneux School hall and pilaster carvings, Francis Ormond, William Charles Kernot, Corsican Pnes at Creswick, Ballarat High School Plantation, Workin Men's College, RMIT, Naorrow LEafed Peppermint, Education and World Peace, Eucalypts of Victoria, John C. Eccles, Blue Gum. Manners, Giving the Poorly Nourished Boy A Chance, Native Ferns, Marybourough Technical School, Memorial School at Villers-Brettonneux .8) Experimental Plots in Country Schools (W.W. Gay), Villers Bretonneaux and its Memorial School. nominated classes for Art Teachers, The Teachers Act 1925, Horsham High School, Richmond Technical School, Farewell to Messrs C.R. Long and Ponsonby Carew-Smyth, Frank Tate, Phyiscal Training, Arbor Day, ANZAC Day, Shakespeare Day,Bendigo Junior Techncial School, Musical Appreciation, Motor Dental Unit, School Camps, Education Act of 1872: Mr Angus McKay's Part (George Mackay), A Bush Fire Experience (Irene Stable), Black Sunday, Californian Red Pine, Women's Education in America, Farewell to Lord and Lady Stradbroke, Grevilia Robusta, Silky Oak, Redwood, John E. Grant, The Need for Research (Donald Clark), Junior Drama, Ida D. Marshall, John Pounds, Australian Books, Fish Creek School, State Boundaries, History in the Curriculum, Ceramic Art in Australia (Percy E. Everett), Choice of School Songs, Tasmanian Beech, Should History be Taught on a National or an International Basis, Hydatid Disease, James Holland Obituary, Florrie Hodges, Queensland Maple, Post Bushfire Ruins at Fumina, Arbor Day at Fumina, Queensland Rosewood, Omeo Endowment Plantation, Bird Day, Junior Red Cross, Pioneers' Day, Edward Henty, Junior Technical Schools, Yellow Pine, History and Progress of Needlework, A.B.C. of Astronomy, Northumberland Mental tests, Queensland Red Cedar, Teh Globe Theatre, .9) 1927 includes The ABC of Astronomy, Atr Theatre, English Beech, Angus McMillan Art Pottery, School Singing, State Schools' Nursery, School endowment plantations, Making a Man, experimental proof of Charles's Law, John Smyth obituary and portrait, Linton Pine Planation, motivation of arithmetic, Women's Classes at Dookie, Swimming and Lifesaving, Pioneers Day, Drawing, Ballarat High School planation, biting fly, Tir-Na-N'og, John Byatt retirement and portrait, Technical Schools Conference at Daylesford, Ethel Osborne and portrait, library. Francis Thompson portrait, Adam Lindsay Gordon, Solar movement, motor transport, Liverpool Cathedral, Teh Story of the Cathedral, Bendigo School of Mines, Omeo School pine plantation, Egypt and the Nile, Self-Criticism Images include Ballarat High School Pine Plantation, Vale Park, Francis Ormond, Woking Men's College (RMIT), W.N. Kernot, A Stand of Corsican Pines at Creswick, Victoria .10) Some Remarks on the Relationship of the technical Schools to the University (Donald Clark) , Present Day Education in England , Memorial to Joseph Cornwall, Spelling, motivation, Singing, State Scholarships, Agriculture, T.W. Bothroyd, The Swimmer - A Summer School Sketch (H.H. Croll), Swimming woodwork, Farewell to Dr Sutton. ,Drowning, War Savings Movement, White Beech. George S. Browne , Example of School Honor Book, Blackwood, Optimistic teacher, Soldier settlement around Shapparton, Oral Hygiene, Cinema Machines, Basketball, Wakter M. Camble obituary, ANZAC day Pilgrimage in England, Froebel's System, Montessori Method, War Relief Fund, New Zealand Kauri Tree, Bat Tenis at a Bush School., Advice to Australian Girls, Chrysanthemums, Royal Visit, National Parks of Victoria, Maurice Copland Obituary, total eclipse of the Moon, School libraries, The teacher and the COmmunity (A.M. Barry), The Reading Lesson, Swimming and Life-saving, MElbourne Teachers' College War Memorial Windows Old Trainees War Memorial, Cultivating a Natinoal Art education gazette, school, education, teaching, teacher, world war one, school plantations, macarthur street pine plantation, school forestry, creswick state forest, anzac day, armistance celebrations, frank tate, frank tate retirement, drawing from cast, education department school readers, lake tyers pine plantation, w.n. kernot, rmit, working men's college, francis ormond, pine plantations, calenbeem park, creswick, villers-brettonneux school hall and carvings, thomas trengrove, corsican pines, creswick, pine endowment plantations, mccarthur st primary school pine plantation, ballarat high school pine plantation, vale park, mount pleasant primary school pine plantation, golden point pine plantation, angus macmillan, paul de strzelecki, gippsland, villers-bretonneaux memorial school, francis thompson, english ash, pestalozzi centenary, shakespeare day, swimming classes, clear pine, cinema in education, american black walnut, red gum, thomas wolliam bothroyd obituary, and portrait, physical training displays, teaching of spelling, ohm's law, blue gum -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Domestic object - Shallow Vegetable Serving bowl, Johnson Brothers England, 1913 - 1942
Johnson Bros. was founded by two brothers named Alfred and Frederick who purchased a pottery factory in Hanley, England, in 1883. They were grandsons of a renowned English potter, Alfred Meakin. They were later joined in the business by their brothers Henry and Robert. Their business grew rapidly, as they were one of the world's largest pottery factories by the turn of the 20th century. By 1970, Johnson Bros. obtained the Royal Charter to become the official provider of china for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. More than 1,300 patterns have been created throughout Johnson Brothers' history. Due to their growing success, manufacturing plants were established overseas including the establishment of a tableware factory, Johnson Brothers Australia in 1957 in Croydon, Victoria operated through a company known as Sovereign Pottery Ltd. Due to rising competition, Johnson Brothers became part of the Wedgewood Group in 1968. In 2015, following the acquisition of Wedgewood by Finnish company Fiskars, the Johnson Brothers branding was discontinued. The trademark on this bowl was used by Johnson Brothers between 1913 and 1942. An item which reflects the changing market for tableware that was reasonably priced and serviceable. Their innovation of the pottery line called semi-porcelain changed the industry. This development allowed potteries to produce fashionable pottery items that were affordable to all social classes of the time. Their use became widespread in Australia, especially following their establishment of a tableware factory in Melbourne, Victoria. A shallow white bowl with gold trim, probably used for serving vegetables at the table. The underside of the bowl bears the mark of Johnson Bros England. The mark is composed of a green crown above the words "Johnson Bros England" also in green.On under side of bowl, beneath a green crown "Johnson Bros/England"johnson brothers ceramics, domestic utensils, kitchenware