Purchased by the donor from the women embroiderers at the New Dhanetic village near Bhuj in Gujarat in April 2011.Contemporary Ahir style embroidery, hand embroidered in chain stitch and shisha work on red cotton. Stitching is in yellow, green, purple, red and white.embroidery, indian, shisha

Acquired by donor in Pakistan.Red cap, embroidered, beaded and shisha mirrors, helmet shaped. Edged with beads, and crown has small tassels and cowrie shells.embroidery, cap, shisha, beads, india, pakistan, shells

Traditional Banjara (also known as Lambani) are an historically nomadic trading community originating in the Mewar region of Rajasthan, before migrating across central and southern India. Tribal mirror belts combine bright upcycled fabrics, cowrie shells, coins and shisha mirrors. Belts were originally designed to fasten heavy, wraparound skirts and hold nomadic tools or pouches. The mirrors (also known as abhla) according to folklore reflect and deflect the "evil eye" (buri nazar) away from the wearer. Indian Banjara mirror belt embroidered on linen/cotton with stitches in red, yellow, green and orange. Top panel has six shisha mirrors 30 mm diameter. Three hanging pieces attached with bead covered string each with a shisha mirror 450 mm diameter. Coiled string used to tie around body.belts, india

Contemporary Ahir style embroidery purchased by the donor from the embroiderer, Mrs Sofia Natemitha Mutna of Dhordo Village near Bhuj in Gujarat, India in January 2012.Contemporary Ahir style embroidery. A circular design in silk thread in red, blue, green, orange, yellow, pink and white on a black synthetic ground. Stitches are chain, running stitch, feather stitch and shisha work. Feather stitch is in a variegated thread.india, embroidery, india, shisha

Purchased from NGO Shrujan- threads of Life, Bhuj, Gujarat in 2011. Pakko style of embroidery by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar communities of Kutch area in Gujarat. Pakko literally means "solid" and refers to the densely stitched designs and motifs in a double button hole stitch. The embroidery also includes h tiny shisha mirrors surrounded by Kati stitch (cream). Shrujan was a social enterprise formed in 1969 to preserve and promote hand embroidery and provide a livelihood for women from the village of Dhaneti. This model was repeated over the years and now operates in 114 villages across Kutch. The women produce high quality embroidered furnishing items and garments for the Shrujan outlets.Embroidered square cushion cover in Pakko style embroidery with stylised floral motifs and geometric border. Dense double buttonhole stitch motifs with shisha mirrors surrounded by kati stitch (cream). Stitched in untwisted floss. Embroidered panel has a silk duponi border.flower, floral, india, indian, kutch, pakko

The Bermali Maki (also known simply as the Maki stitch) is a distinctive, geometric hand embroidery stitch widely used in the vibrant tribal art of the Lambani (Banjara) nomadic people in India. It is traditionally combined with appliqué, mirrors, and beadwork to create elaborate, textured patterns.Turquoise linen with white cotton embroidery including shisha mirrors, chain stitch, herringbone and bermali maki stitch. Very similar to E1160 - a shisha work cape from Pakistan.fragments, pakistan, shisha work

Purchased from NGO Shrujan- threads of Life, Bhuj, Gujarat in 2011. Neran style of embroidery is from the Bhujodi area of Kutch and was originally a variation of Kharek and Pakko embroidery however is now classified as a separate style. Neran means "eye brow" and refers to the curved units of closely stitched button hole stitch which resemble eye brows. Another feature of this style of embroidery is that the cloth is almost completely covered in geometric patterns of neran stitch along with tiny shisha mirrors and interlaced running stitch. Shrujan was a social enterprise formed in 1969 to preserve and promote hand embroidery and provide a livelihood for women from the village of Dhaneti. This model was repeated over the years and now operates in 114 villages across Kutch. The women produce high quality embroidered furnishing items and garments for the Shrujan outlets.Embroidered square cushion cover in Neran style geometric embroidery. Base fabric is completely covered in neran stitch, shisha mirrors and interlaced running stitch in dark red, olive green and tan untwisted floss. Embroidered panel has a silk duponi border.india, indian, kutch, gujarat, neran

Note: Virginia Mort feels that costume is from Rajastan or Gujerat. Definitely from West India.Red cotton (not a match to panels) chain stitch and shisha work, flowers and birds.embroidery, garments, tambour work, 1840-60, burma, skirt, blouse (part of wedding costume)

Bright yellow and green cotton fabric. The top is embroidered with shisha mirrors and bands of embroidery in red, green and blue on yellow fabric. embroidery, surface stitchery, india, shisha work, garments

Traditional Banjara (Tribal) bag from regions like Kutch in Gunjarat or Rajasthan, India. "Bagchi" or dowry bags, traditionally handmade and gifted during weddings and engagements.Heavily embroidered in a geometric design with shisha mirrors in reds, black and cream. Small pom poms attached. Cream and blue cord and blue bead.bag, india

Khotro, or bag using fragment of Ahir embroidery. Includes shisha mirror work. Design includes parrots and peacocks. Small tassels and buttons decorate edge.bag, dowry, shiska, india, embroidery

Panel of red satin cotton with a border of couched gold metal thread enclosing scrolls. Central design of leaves and a flower, couched in red with a tiny shisha mirror for the flower centregoldwork, sequins, shisha mirrors, leaves, flower

A brimless short rounded cap worn by men in Africa, Middle East and South Asia. Although associated with many Islamic cultures, in the United States it is also worn with people of West African heritage, whether Christian, Islamic or a traditional African religion.Brimless cap hand embroidered with pink, green, blue, orange and yellow coloured highlights. Crystal beads highlight the pattern. Silver coloured metal thread herringbone stitch and shisha mirror work.caps, embroidered

A copy of traditional Indian shisha work. Beige cotton with coloured surface stitchery and small pieces of mirror used in the floral design. Edge is 3 rows of chain stitch in blue, yellow and red.embroidery, tea cosy, shisha work, 1900-20

Small black cotton bag with a zipper at top front. Embroidered in bright colours, orange, red, purple, green, yellow, pink and cream and shisha mirrors inserted. Black cord around sides of bag forming a handle and fluffy ends at bottom corners.bags, india, embroidery, shisha mirrors, tambour work, bags

Bright green cotton fabric. Skirt has waist band and border embroidered in red, pink, blue and yellow. Cowrie shells are placed at intervals.embroidery, surface stitchery, india, shisha work, garments

Purchased by donor's son when he was working in India.Indian mirror work bag work. May be from Kutch, Gujurat. Multi-coloured threads, decorated with buttons and fringe.bags, shisha work

Folk embroidery from Saurashtra Provence of Gujarati and said by donor to be over 100 years old. Depicts elephant headed god, Ganesh. Vivid colours of reds, yellow, green and blue with some mirror inserts.embroidery, surface stitchery, shisha work, mid 19th century, india