Five octagonal shaped side plates with floral and geometric patterns and gilding on rim.Phoenix Ware Made in England T.F & S.L.Ltddomestic equipment, table setting, plate

Three white china side plates part of dinner set decorated with green flowers and vines.Tokio 1790 K&Co B late Mayersdomestic equipment, table setting, plate

Two white china side plates with floral decoration in shades of green, mauve & pink, with embossed pattern around scalloped edges.domestic equipment, food consumption, plates

Four white china side plates decorated with sprays of pink roses and green leaves, crimped edges with gilding around rim.Sovereign Pottery Johnson Made in Australiadomestic equipment, food consumption, plates

Burleigh Ware have been making their products since 1851 at Middleport Pottery in Stoke-on-Trent, England.A blue and white Willow Pattern scalloped edged dessert plate with the traditional oriental landscape scene on the front with a highly decorative blue and white floral raised edge and fine gold line trim around the outer edge.'Burleigh Ware, willow, made in England, 1'. This is stamped on the base of the plate on a blue leaf pattern.side plates, serving plate, butter plates

Wedding gift to Mr. & Mrs. Wilms, 5th January 1910. (Dorothy Adamson's parents).Set of three round white bread and butter plates with blue rose design. Fluted edge with gold trim. plates, dinnerware, side plates

This side plate and accompanying pieces were used at the original Healesville Sanctuary Kiosk during the 1930's and 1940's.Small souvenir side plate. White glazed ceramic with gold rim. The plate has four images around the outside edge: a wedge-tailed eagle, koala and baby and 2 smaller wattle blooms with leaves. "HORATIUS" TRAINED HUNTING EAGLE/ THE SANCTUARY HEALESVILLEhealesville-sanctuary, wedge-tailed-eagle, koala, plate, kiosk

Owned and used by Wandin J SebireSmall brown leather Gladstone bag.WJS initials on side platebags, gladstone bag

Side plate with Peace Rose decoration on a white background and edged with gold.Roslyn fine bone china, England, Series of 6 authentic world famous Wheatcroft Roses No.6 Peace RS Burberjohn perry, domestic object, cup and saucer, tea set, porcelain, ceramic, china

Hand painted china side plate in 2 tone orange mottled pattern.D M Peters 11domestic equipment, table setting, plate

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

Hand painted china side plate, white with sepia scene of Mud Brick Hut Bendigo.Hand painted by J.Nichener. Bendigo 1985domestic equipment, table setting, plate

Small painted side plate with scalloped gilded edge decorated with flowers and leaves in autumnal shades.A2869domestic equipment, food consumption, kitchen

Hand painted china side plate with coloured scene of Chinese Joss House Bendigo and gilt edge.Hand painted by J.Mitchener Bendigo 1985domestic equipment, table setting, plate

Earthenware, 2 teacups, 2 saucers, 2 side plates and 1 cereal bowl with side plate in 'Real Old Willow' pattern. Traditional dark blue Willow Pattern, with hand-painted gold rims. Small Willow Pattern cameo at the base inside each cup.Pattern Number 8025. Small Willow Pattern cameo at the base inside each cup.ornaments, earthenware, booths pty ltd, tunstall, england, early settlers, pioneers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, ormond, market gardeners

Hand painted china side plate with sepia scene on white china with gilt edge of Dudley House Bendigo.J.Mitchener 1985domestic equipment, table setting, plate

White bone china saucer and side plate. The plates are decorated with pink roses and green leaves around the edge. They have gold rimsMakers mark - Royal Albert Bone China England The old country, makers markjohn perry, domestic object, cup and saucer, tea set, porcelain, ceramic, china

The Ozone Hotel was formerly the Grand Ozone Coffee Palace which was erected in 1890 at a cost of around ten thousand pounds. Coffee Palaces were temperance hotels which were popular in the latter part of the 19th century which offered recreation and superior accommodation. The coffee palace operated until 1915 and was then closed before re-opening in 1920 as Hotels Mansions. It had major renovations including a large theatre area. February 23rd 1929 saw the most spectacular fire in Warrnambool's history when the Hotel mansions was burnt to the ground. Evelyn O'Brien was granted a temporary licence and in September 1930 she was given permission to rebuild. The new hotel named Hotel Warrnambool was opened in March 1931. This item has local significance having come from one of Warrnambool's grandest buildingsSide Plate with Hotel Mansions crest in black, with Warrnambool in banner underneath and a black line around rim of plate. Loftus Moran Pty Ltd Melbourne stamp on back (distributor?)Hotel Mansions crest on front of plate, with Warrnambool in banner underneath.grand ozone coffee palace, hotel mansions warrnambool, ozone hotel warrnambool, warrnambool

The MV Duntroon was a 10,346 ton passenger liner built for the Melbourne Steam Ship Co. by Swan, Hunter & Wigham Richardson's yard, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, in 1935. One of the last purpose-built passenger & general cargo ships for the Australian coastal trade, the Duntroon was also known for its role as a troopship (1942-1949) and for the tragic incident on 20 November 1940 when she hit and sank the small auxiliary minesweeper HMAS Goorangai off Queenscliff with the loss of all 24 of Goorangai's crew. This was the first RAN ship to be lost during the Second World War.Crockery; 7 pieces from the Melbourne Steamship Co. off the MV Duntroon; 2 tea cups with saucers, 2 side plates, 1 small milk jug, floral border pattern Crest on front: Melbourne Steamship Co. Ltd. On base: C McD Mann and Co. Ltd. Hanley Staff, 101 Leadenhall St. London. Made in Englandmv duntroon, goorangai, melbourne steamship co ltd

Siemens DC generator driven by a Thompsons two cylinder steam engine. The engine has vertical cylinders and there is a flywheel between the generator and engine. Generator painted grey, engine painted red. The system is connected to low pressure steam and can be run very slowly. Brass plate on generator "Siemens Brothers / Dynamo Works Ltd. / London Stafford / Direct Current Generator", followed by specifications. Thompsons Engineering in relief on steam engine side plates. "60" on base of engine.machinery; generator; steam engine; metalwork

Presented to Olive Cassell in 1932 on the occasion of her marriage to Clive Jarvis, by her brother Leonard, son of local butcher Milton Cassell. The tea set was bought at O.Gilpins store in Korumburra . It was donated by Leonard Cassell on 22nd September 2011. White chin tea set with a black printed transfer of Korumburra Public Park as the decoration on each item. 9090.1 - 9090.4 Four tea cups 9090.5 Saucer 9090.6 - 9090.11 Six side platesOn bottom of each SHEFFIELD MADE IN ENGLAND

Part china tea set, off white with floral design in shades of pink, mauve, green with scalloped edging and gilt decoration. Consisting of 5 side plates, 3 saucers, 5 cups and a milk jug.domestic equipment, food consumption, kitchen

The Hotel Mansions was formerly the Grand Ozone Coffee Palace, erected in 1890 at a cost of around ten thousand pounds at the corner of Kepler and Koroit Streets by a group of local businessmen and leased out. Within 12 months of construction, it was granted a wine licence and was renamed the Ozone Hotel. Coffee Palaces were temperance hotels which were popular in the latter part of the 19th century. They offered recreation and superior accommodation. The Ozone Hotel operated until 1915 and was then closed before re-opening in 1920 as the Hotel Mansions. It had major renovations including a large theatre area. February 23rd 1929 saw the most spectacular fire in Warrnambool's history when the Hotel Mansions was burnt to the ground. Evelyn O'Brien was granted a temporary licence and in September 1930 she was given permission to rebuild. The new hotel, named Hotel Warrnambool was opened in March 1931. This piece of china is a relic from the fire.This piece of china is a small relic from the biggest fire ever to occur in Warrnambool and as such has strong historical significance.Fragment of burnt white, china plate from Hotel Mansions. There is a Hotel Mansions symbol etched inside an oval design on the front of the plate. The hotel side plate, heavily crazed and brown stained on both front and back.Stamp of "Ironstone Ch..." on back also an etched, sand blasted Hotel Mansions on front too faint to photograph effectively.warrnambool, ozone coffee palace warrnambool, grand ozone coffee palace, hotel mansions warrnambool, fire at the ozone, ozone hotel

The 10th Light Horse was raised in 1903 from Victorian Mounted Rifles companies in Gippsland. In 1912 the regiment was renumbered 13th Light Horse. In 1920 the regiment had the territorial title Gippsland Light Horse added. The regiment was raised as 13th Light Horse (Gippsland), a Citizen Forces unit. In 1940 the regiment converted from horse to mechanised, initially as 13th Motor Regiment then 13th Armoured Regiment. It trained in Victoria and, as the Japanese threat to the mainland declined, was disbanded in October 1943 with men going to other units.Set of one dozen white vitreous china side plates with a red monogram incorporating the regimental badge in the rim denoting the object was made specially for 13th Light Horse Officers' Mess. The red on white is the colour patch of the regiment."13th (Gippsland) LH Regt" above regimental badge, and "Officers' Mess" below badge. Marked on base of plate " 'Duraline' Supervitrifies Grindley Hotelware Co England" and "Loftus Moran Pty Ltd Melbourne" 13th, light horse, gippsland, monogram, officer, mess plate

This perpetual cup was awarded to the winners of the Raft Race held each year on the Hazelwood Pondage, Gippsland. It was an activity held by the students of the Gippsland Institute of Advanced Education, 1975 through to 1986. Known as the 'Six Metre Henk Miller Line Special' The cup was passed to the Federation University Historical Collection at Mt Helen Campus.Silver plated cup on bakelite base. Fine handle each side. Silver plate on base.Base: G I A E - Annual Raft Race - Perpetual Trophy - Hazelwood Pondage Cup: Names of those who participated each yearraft race, perpetual cup, hazelwood pondage, gippsland institute of advanced education, six meter, henk miller

No known provenanceOmega spirit iron with cast base and semi-circular airholes at the edge. The metal bottom is polished. A hooked clip holds the top plate in place and the wooden handle is D-shaped. The silvered supply tank has a jet control.OMEGA Ω (Greek symbol on opposite side of top plate)allansford, irons, ironing, laundry equipment, spirit irons