This book was owned by the late Dr Elizabeth Kerr and was donated to the Museum by the executor of her estate, Margaret Cameron. It was published by American Vogue in 1955 and contains knitting patterns for womens garments.VOGUE KNITTING / BOOK / Fall and Winter 1955 / Over 60 / New Designs / Introducing a new / Easy-to-Knit / Section / 50 Centsknitting fashion, vogue - america, knitting, fashion

This book was owned by the late Dr Elizabeth Kerr and was donated to the Museum by the executor of her estate, Margaret Cameron. It was produced by American Vogue and contains knitting patterns for womens garments and mens jumpers.VOGUE / KNITTING / FALL-WINTER 1961 / 50c / 50 FASHIONS / FOR YOU / TO KNIT / new shapes / new textures / new colours / THE LITHE LOOK / IN KNITTED DRESSES / BOUTIQUE / OF SWEATERS / FOR MENknitting fashion, vogue - america, knitting, fashion

Vogue Dress Pattern 1970s|Vogue American Designer OriginalVogue Anne Kleindomestic items, sewing, handcrafts, dressmaking

This product was introduced in an era where the "silky smooth" look was in vogue. From the 1920s on, American and British film stars set the tone of how clean cut (hero type) masculine look attracts the opposite sex faster and in greater quantities than the "unkempt" or natural maintained look. This look was bold and "polished" and had the intended projection that the hair matched the character of "I look after myself and have a high opinion of physical appearances". As fashion goes this slick and well maintained look has circled many times, in and out of history and in Australia in the 1950s this was a prime example. The liberation of the stereo type of both sexes occurred in the 1960s when the freedom loving "hippie culture" had a marked affect upon the city inhabitants but not so strong among rural males. Sexism was still rife in that time frame.This jar of Brylcreem was a part of the (masculine) rural scene for a longer period than that found in the larger towns and cities. The long held "men are men" and "women are women" distinction between the sexes lingered on more in rural areas because of the perceived physical differences, mainly "strength" and perceived tasks such as "men only" activities (heavy farm/mining/construction). The jar of Brylcreem maintained the respectable male look for those special occasions when males "dressed" up and looked clean physically and well behaved (to show respect to the women folk)This glass jar with a glued on,red background, label detailing the product Brylcreem (a men's) hairdressing ointment is empty of its original product. It has been contoured on each side to allow for a man's fingers to comfortably and firmly grip the jar. This form would allow even "greased up" hands to maintain control. The glass thickness is far greater than needed and also added the extra stability to the standing jar. The shape of the jar is a latent attempt to emulate the physique of a fit young man (small waist, expanded and muscled mid rift and large shoulders). The jar does not distract from viewing its contents (clear glass). It has a black gloss screw (on/off) lid made from mild grade steel. The jar holds approximately 200 grams of a thick molasses textured product. On the front red Label; in large white letters "BRYLCREEM" underneath this is in smaller silver print "THE PERFECT HAIRDRESSING" underneath this is a banner type motif with a crown at the top and a black letter "B"in the centre. Below this and in much smaller print are printed in black script "BEECHAM (AUSTRALIA) PTY. LTD. MELBOURNE VICTORIA M A Imen's deportment, toiletries, men's hair styles, physical appearances

Dorothy Round in shorts English-born Dorothy Round (1909-1982) plays tennis at Albert Park Cricket Ground, wearing her signature white sleeveless dress with divided skirt, pleated to form loose shorts. Dorothy won Wimbledon in 1934 and 1937, and the Australian Open in 1935. In the early 1930s, many women players in Europe and USA swapped stockings and long skirts for bare legs, short skirts and shorts. In October 1933, Mr Harley Malcolm, Secretary of Lawn Tennis Association Australia (LTAA) declared, “I consider shorts not regulation costume and would stop both men and women, particularly women, wearing them. I think women’s desire to strut themselves in such a costume is unreasonable.” However by November, the Victorian Lawn Tennis Association (VLTA) officially allowed shorts at Kooyong for both sexes. At the July 1934 Wimbledon Women’s Final, played in front of the King and Queen, Dorothy wore a sleeveless dress with the skirt divided. Her American competitor, Helen Jacobs, wore white tailored shorts with a black stripe on either side, described as “mannish, though businesslike”. In October, Australian tennis player Mrs Nell Hopman warned, “When Miss Dorothy Round arrives in a few weeks’ time, the LTAA will have to reconsider its decision about women playing in dresses, as she is sure to bring a trunkful of shorts. Miss Round has a “shorts only” rule which I fancy she will stick to here. She is the most stylish player I saw abroad.” The papers also reported that “Mrs Hopman saw no “he girls” among tennis players in Europe. Even the almost universal rule for shorts did not make them look masculine.” Dorothy said, “I wear shorts because they do not get in the way as a frock does. Mine are made in one piece and this avoids any tightness around the waist.” Featured in "Newsworthy: Melbourne in photographs 1933-1936" exhibition at East Melbourne Library, October to December 2023. Exhibition caption by project volunteer, Fiona Collyer. Photographer notations on slide: "Mrs D Round; D Round B6" Description: Dorothy Round plays tennis at Albert Grounds, Albert Park, Melbourne. She is wearing her signature white sleeveless dress with divided skirt, pleated to form loose shorts. Research by project volunteer, Fiona Collyer: Dorothy Round (1909-1982) was an English tennis champion from Dudley, Worcestershire. She won the Wimbledon Women’s Singles in 1934 and 1937. In 1935 she won the Australian Championships Women’s Singles in Melbourne. Dorothy won the Mixed Doubles at Wimbledon in 1934, 1935 and 1936. Dorothy was a staunch Methodist and taught Sunday School at Dudley Wesleyan Methodist Church throughout her career. She did not drink, smoke, dance or play tennis on Sundays and declined to compete in the 1933 French Open as tennis officials refused to comply to her scheduling preferences of No Sundays. During the Wightman Cup in New York when play was rained out on the Saturday, Dorothy refused to return on the Sunday. Officials reluctantly agreed to reschedule the clash for Monday, where she put in a sub par performance, prompting the New York Times to quip “Miss Round doesn’t play on Sundays, and doesn’t play particularly well on Mondays!”. In the early 1930s many women tennis players in Europe and USA abandoned their stockings and long skirts for bare legs, short skirts and shorts and some men swapped their long flannel trousers for shorts. British player Henry “Bunny” Austin was the first top male player to wear shorts at Centre Court Wimbledon in 1933, and his sister Joan Lycett nee Austin became the first female player to play without stockings on Centre Court, appearing with bare legs and ankle socks in 1931. In 1933 Mr Harley Malcolm, Secretary of the Lawn Tennis Association Australia (LTAA) and referee of big tournaments , said “the rules say regulation costume must be worn – I consider shorts are not regulation costume and would stop both men and women, particularly women, wearing them. I think women’s desire to strut themselves in such a costume is unreasonable.” (Herald 5/10/1933) However, by November 1933 the Victorian Lawn Tennis Assn officially allowed shorts as regulation dress at Kooyong for both sexes. One speaker suggested that as the majority of women were knock-kneed, the privilege of wearing shorts would not be taken up extensively by them. He added that women were not intended by nature to wear such garments. Another member mentioned that men were rather handsome objects and “works of art” and would carry off the short pants vogue nicely. (Sun Sydney 15/11/33) At the 1934 Wimbledon Singles Finals, playing in front of King George V and Queen Mary, Dorothy wore her signature outfit of sleeveless white dress with the skirt divided and pleated to form loose shorts and American Helen Jacobs wore white tailored shorts with a black stripe on either side described as “mannish, though business like.” In the lead up to Dorothy’s arrival in Australia to compete in the Australian Championship of 1935, there was much speculation written in the press about Dorothy’s preference for wearing shorts. Tennis player Mrs Nell Hopman warned “When Miss Dorothy Round arrives in a few weeks’ time, the Australian Lawn Tennis Association will have to reconsider its decision about women playing in dresses, as she is sure to bring a trunkful of shorts.” “Miss Round has a “shorts only” rule which I fancy she will stick to here. She is the most stylish player abroad.” Mrs Hopman saw no “he girls” among the tennis players in Europe. Even the almost universal rule for shorts did not make them look masculine. Mrs Hopman brought back a couple of pleated pairs that tennis player and designer Mrs Fearnley-Whittingstall (nee Eileen Bennett) made popular and worn by most English players. “They are really quite radical for they look no more startling than a short, pleated skirt” she said. (Newcastle Sun 1/10/1934) Writing for the Sydney Morning Herald 6/12/34, Dorothy said ”I have heard that a photograph of a player wearing shorts was sent to the Queen for her approval and I understand that she said in reply “that they were very attractive”. The Queen is a frequent and interested visitor to Wimbledon so this story is most credible and possibly explains the lack of official opposition to shorts this year.” “I wear shorts because they do not get in the way as a frock does. You have probably noticed that mine are made in one piece and this avoids any tightness around the waist. I don’t know whether shorts have come to stay. They do not suit everybody and the majority of the men don’t like the women in them and this may help condemn the fashion. I really think the men dislike them because too many people who shorts obviously do not suit rushed to be in the fashion and the result was devastating. For my part, I hope that this comfortable fashion endures.” Dorothy’s doubles partner, English tennis champion Fred Perry, did not approve of shorts for men and was particularly perturbed at the idea of women wearing them. Fred always wore long, white flannel trousers and white collared polo shirt on the tennis court. In July 1935 Dorothy took up a post as a dress designer and sportswear design advisor at British outfitters Jaeger. She published two books – “Modern Lawn Tennis” in 1935 and ”Tennis for Girls” in 1938 – described as cheerful and sensible guides. In 1937, Dorothy married Dr Douglas Leigh Little at Dudley Wesleyan Methodist Church. Her wedding dress was designed by renowned fashion designer Teddy Tinling who specialised in designing tennis dresses. (Tinling designed the dress worn by Billie Jean King for the famous “Battle of the Sexes” tennis match against Bobby Riggs in 1973.) News reel co. Gaumont British News filmed the wedding, showing 10,000 people, mostly women, surging towards the couple, describing it as a riot, and quipping that Dorothy’s forehand was useful when cutting the wedding cake. The city of Dudley gifted the couple an antique walnut bedroom suite chosen by them. Dorothy and Douglas had a son, Ian, and a daughter, Patricia. She gave up competitive tennis to coach and write newspaper articles. In later life she took up golf. Dorothy died of cancer in 1982 aged 73. She was inducted into the International Tennis Hall of Fame 1986. In 2004 a bronze bust of Dorothy was installed at Wimbledon, and in 2013 a life size bronze statue was erected at Priory Park, Dudley. References: MRS. HOPMAN RETURNS (1934, October 1). The Newcastle Sun (NSW : 1918 - 1954), p. 9. Retrieved September 20, 2023, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article166292409 FIGURED IT OUT (1933, November 15). The Sun (Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), p. 13 (FINAL EXTRA). Retrieved September 20, 2023, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article230199908 FASHIONS OF THE TENNIS COURTS. (1934, December 6). The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), p. 7 (Women's Supplement). Retrieved September 20, 2023, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article28021332 Leading Tennis Referee Condemns Wearing of Shorts (1933, October 5). The Herald (Melbourne, Vic. : 1861 - 1954), p. 11. Retrieved September 20, 2023, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article243193607 DOROTHY ROUND Chooses Going-Away TROUSSEAU (1937, September 4). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 39. Retrieved September 20, 2023, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article51588090 Ban On Shorts For Tennis Girls? (1934, April 15). The Sun (Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved February 5, 2024, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article230535547 Dorothy Round Little - one of Britain's greatest champions, 13 September 2009, Tennis Forum, https://www.tennisforum.com/threads/dorothy-round-little-one-of-britains-greatest-champions.409612/Photographer notations on slide: "Mrs D Round; D Round B6".tennis, clothing and dress, 1930-1939

This jacket and cap were designed by Rosalie 'Rosa' Kiessling about 1967. They formed part of the Fashion Group Inc's Walkabout Tour of the USA in 1967 which aimed to promote Australian fashion design in America. German by birth Rosalie, grew up skiing and ice skating, studied fashion design in Munich and worked designing women’s ski wear and lingerie before migrating to Australia via New Zealand in 1939 with her husband. As skiing increased in popularity following the end of WWII, Rosalie’s business grew reaching its peak during the 1960s. Though it was never large; at most she employed three staff. Her designs featured in the pages of Australian Vogue, Flair and the Women’s Weekly throughout the 1960s and received coverage from newspapers in Australia, New Zealand the United States. Rosalie was closely involved with the Swiss Club of Victoria, the Australian Wool Board and the Fur Traders Association, participating in numerous fashion shows and awards run by these groups. In the late 1960s she became involved with the Melbourne Branch of the Fashion Group Inc, a worldwide non-commercial association of women involved in the fashion industry. Rosalie continued to design and manufacture fashionable but functional ski wear until the late 1970s, although increasing imports from large overseas manufactures and constant new innovations in fabric technology made it difficult for her to compete in a relatively small industry. This ski jacket and cap illustrate Rosalie Kiessling's emphasis on practical glamour. She was the first Australian ski wear manufacturer to bring high fashion to ski wear design; which though common in the boutiques of St Mortiz, Chamonix and St Anton was new to Australia. The use of an Australian wildflower motif and of these pieces in the Fashion Group's Walkabout Tour also speak to her involvement in and promotion of the Australian fashion industry during the 1960s.Ski jacket and matching cap appliqued with Australian wildflowers.Noneskiing, ski clothing, fashion design, australian fashion, australian flora