Other items from this collection
National Wool Museum
Wool picking machine designed to separate locks of wool before it is carded and spun. The picker opens the wool’s locks which makes it easier to send the fleece through a carding machine. It does this by teasing the fibres (which can also be done by hand just by pulling the lock structure apart), but a picker does this in bulk and much quicker than what can be done by hand. It is possible to spin fibres directly after the picking stage; however, it is usually more desirable to card and blend them with other fibres. Typically, at a textile mill, a picking machine can separate enough lengths of fibre for a full day’s work after just a single hour. It will also help to remove any vegetation matter or other any unwanted elements that may be present in the wool. The quality of the casting on this machine suggest that it was made locally, either in Australia or New Zealand. Mike Leggett, the donor of the machine, acquired it from New Zealand where the seller said it had been used by his father to pick wool to make hand stuffed horse saddles. Mike attempted to used it a couple of times to pick alpaca hair, but the speed of the attached motor caused damage to the fibres. The motor is thought to be an added attachment, sometime around the 1960s judging by its age, while the machine itself is thought to be dated around the 1920s. The machine works by inserting wool through the rollers. Initially there was a conveyor belt feeder system which was powered by the handle on the side. This conveyor belt has been removed however, most likely due to age and deterioration. Wool is now fed through the initial teeth and is met by a spiked rotating drum which works to separate the fibres. The separated fibres would then complete a loop of the drum before being dispatched somewhere below, around where the motor presently sits, at a rapid rate of speed. Typically this wool will be collected in a closet or large catchment area, as can be seen from the 8:47 minute marker in the linked video (link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMjx-t3tH3A). It is not apparent how the wool is collected with this machine.
Red and green machine with four green legs currently attached to a wooden pallet with wheels for easy movement. The green legs lead up to a red central circular barrel from which many attachments are present. Also present on the wooden pallet is a small black motor which is attached by a rubber belt to the central drum inside the red barrel. The belt spins the wooden drum via a dark red circular plate attached to the side of the drum. On the other side of the red barrel, a green handle extends for turning the picker’s conveyor belt feeder system. Two green walls extend forward from the central red barrel, guarding either side of where the conveyor belt would have been. At the start of these walls is a wooden cylinder, which the conveyor belt would have wrapped around, followed by two interlocking gears which rotate and accept the fed wool. The red roof extends over the central cylinder from here, securing the wool inside and protecting hands from the heavily spiked internal wooden cylinder which rotates and separates (picks) the wool. Extending over the top of this red roof is a green handle which reaches to the back of the machine (not pictured). Here it accepts a weight to ensure pressure is always present for the initial feeder interlocked gear teeth. There are two large gear cogs on the rubber belt side of the machine and 3 small gear cogs on the handle side of the machine, all coloured green. A green handle is also present at the rear of the machine, below the location from which the weight is hanging. A power cable extends from the motor and there are two adjustable metal rods on the top of the machine, the purpose of these rods is presently unknown.
Black texter. On top of drum. Wording: HG3707 Wording. Imprint: BRACEWIND BLYN On motor. Wording AEI
wool picking, textile manufacturing, wool processing
National Wool Museum
Rug, Tascot Templeton Carpet (TTC), c.1990
This rug was woven in the mid-1990s at the Tascot Templeton Carpet (TTC) mills in Devonport Tasmania. It was an in-house design. The rug was woven as a one-off design exercise and was given a Golden Thread Award by the Australian Wool Corporation. The design never went into standard stock production and was never released for public sale. TTC purchased new looms in the mid-1990s and this rug was woven on those looms to demonstrate their capabilities. The looms utilise the Axminster gripper system, the same system utilised by the carpet loom located within the National Wool Museum. The looms were 1 meter wide, so three separate sections were stitched together to achieve this 3x3 meter rug. TTC manufactured primarily high-quality narrow and broad loom, Axminster and Wilton carpets for the domestic and commercial market. They operated from the early 1960s until their closure in 2011. This rug was also on display in the Tascot Templeton head offices before coming to the National Wool Museum in 2021.
3 x 3-meter carpet rug woven in 1-meter wide sections. The pattern repeats 3 times both in the width and the length. Starting from the bottom left corner, a square can be seen within a larger circular shape. These circular shapes connect end on end across the width and length of the rug. 5 Circles make up the length of the rug while 6 circles make up the width. Numerous small shapes encompass the entirety of the rug. These small shapes work together to form many interconnected repeating forms that draw your eye in a new direction every time you look at the rug. The predominant colour of the rug is a purple background with blue, cream and orange colours making up the foreground colours.
carpet rugs, woollen rugs, tascot templeton carpets, axminster carpet loom
National Wool Museum
Medallion, CENTENAIRE DU DELAINAGE MAZAMET, 1951
This medallion was struck to celebrate the 100th anniversary of fellmongering in Mazamet in 1951. Fellmongering - In French, ‘delainage” means, literally, ‘de-wooling'. It is the industrial process of separating wool from sheepskins. In the 19th century, the southern French town of Mazamet became the world centre of délainage and played an important part in the Australian wool industry. At one time Mazamet was reputed to be the 15th richest town in Europe, and it was said that the town’s branch of the Banque Nationale de Paris (French banking firm) was the second largest in France. At its height, Mazamet had 48 fellmongeries and imported more than 100,000 tonnes of sheepskins a year from the southern hemisphere, mostly from Australia and Argentina. It also supported numerous associated industries such as tanneries, spinning mills and clothing manufacturers. In the 1980s Mazamet’s fellmongering industry fell into decline under pressure from environmental concerns and cheap imports. The town’s last two fellmongeries closed in 2004. The town continues to have a strong relation to Australia, with street names such as, Rue de Australie, Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney in recognition of a connection to the two distant lands. Today, half a century since wool importation largely ended, there remains a link to the past. Elite quality leather and woollen clothing companies such as Hermes and Chanel still source much of their stock in Mazamet. This medallion was presented to William Haughton and Co. who were one of Australia’s largest wool-buying companies of the first half of the 20th century. Wm Haughton had a major presence in Geelong and its “SKINS WOOL HIDES TALLOW etc.” signs were prominent on railways stations throughout the Western District and beyond. Haughtons had branches in all Australian capital cities, New Zealand, London and Bradford. Its agents in Mazamet were Maison Louis Maffre, an enterprise founded by M. Louis Maffre, mayor of Mazamet from 1912 to 1919. This medallion was donated to the National Wool Museum by the family of Sir Robert Southey AO CMG, former managing director of Wm Haughton & Co.
Bronze medallion contained within purple case. On one side of the medallion, a mill worker is seen scraping the wool off the treated sheepskin. On the reverse the inception can be read.
Wording: CRESCAM ET LUCEBO // CENTENAIRE / DU DELAINAGE / MAZAMET // 1851-1951. Smooth edge stamped with a cornucopia and the inscription BRONZE
mazamet, fellmongering, délainage
National Wool Museum
Scarf, 1988 Seoul Olympics women's scarf, c. 1988
The conduct of the LA games changed many factors in a short space of time. The Americans made their Games a huge financial success, whereas other countries, e.g. Canada, was left with a huge debt. The key to this was SPONSORSHIP which soon replaced the old Australian way of fundraising with pub raffles. It also began to change the atmosphere where the AWC had previously been valued for their generous donation. There was a move by commercial specialist uniform marketing organisations paying sponsorship money to publicise the fact that they were clothing high profile athletes. Old loyalties remained but became tested more and more as time progressed. For example, each uniform was expected to include an Akubra hat, why? Because it always had. For the same reason the uniforms also had Driza-Bone Coats. The day before the Seoul Opening Ceremony it rained in Seoul, so at the Opening Ceremony the Australian Team emerged in their Driza-Bones, made from cotton, not a wool fibre in sight, and the wool growers were footing the bill for over a million dollars. Thoroughly embarrassed, I resolved to avoid this situation next time by having all uniform fabrics pre-treated with Scotchguard prior to garment making.
The scarf is brightly coloured in blue, green, yellow, purple and red on a plain cream base fabric. The lines of colour run on an angle across the fabric as jagged, irregular lines with small motifs of Australia, the Southern Cross stars, fish, triangles and a wave pattern, placed throughout. The centre of the scarf is dominated by a depiction of Australia presented in yellow. Within Australia are eucalyptus leaf shapes as well as mountainous shapes and the wave shape that is featured elsewhere on the scarf. The left hand short hem of the scarf has a differing pattern with larger lines running on the opposite angle to the rest of the scarf. Within the larger lines the same motifs are again printed.
National Wool Museum
Paper Lantern, 1988 Seoul Olympics Closing Ceremony Paper Lantern, c. 1988
This paper lantern was used by Australian athletes in the ‘Lantern Dance’, the last program of the closing ceremony, the lantern is called “Ch’ong sa ch’orong” and is traditionally used during weddings and festivals.
When closed the lantern appears as a large, red spiral bound book with detailed inscriptions describing the way to correctly use the lantern in the ceremony. This description appears in several languages as well as a drawn depiction. When opened latticed crepe paper forms a cylinder. The two thirds of the paper is dyed dyed blue and the last third is dyed red. A small battery pack is used to light the lantern.
GAMES OF THE XXIVTH OLYMPIAD SEOUL 1988 o The last program of the Closing Ceremony is called “Lantern Dance”. When all the performers enter the stadium holding lanterns, turn the paper board inside out and press the ends so that they snap shut. This will then allow the lanterns to light up. Hold the lantern by the handle at the centre and gently rock it above your head as shown in the picture. o Listen to the announcements via the ear-phones and follow the signals from the guides for further instructions. o* This lantern is called “Ch’ong sa ch’orong” and was traditionally used during weddings and festivals. This inscription is repeated several times in various languages on the cover of the lantern.
1988 seoul olympic games, closing ceremony, lantern dance
National Wool Museum
1984 Los Angeles Olympics Men's Opening Ceremony Shirt, Men's Opening Ceremony Kookaburra Shirt, c. 1984
On the 1984 Los Angeles Olympic Uniforms donator Doug wrote- During the 1980s the Australian wool industry was at its most prosperous times with record numbers of sheep producing wool receiving ever increasing values due to the success of the Reserve Price Scheme, and the overall guidance of the Australian Wool Corporation (AWC). As a humble technician, my role was a low profile newly created position of “Controller, Technical Marketing” where wool was to be marketed on its technical properties, as distinct from the “Product Marketing Group” which exploited trhe traditional high profile approach of marketing wool;s superior fashion attributes. The Woolmark was the tool central to this approach. When the forthcoming Los Angeles Olympic Games was announced, the Product Marketing Group seized upon the chance to show the world that we could make top fashion garments and display them on our elite athletes on the world stage. A concept was launched using a contemporary top designer, Adel Weiss, with the most exclusive fabrics and knits available, and all with a lot of hype. This launch failed dismally for the following reasons- - The designer did a wonderful job presenting an excellent fashion range on perfect skinny models. The AOC however wanted a uniform which had an obvious Australian appearance when fitted to elite, and frequently muscular, athletes. - The fabrics chosen did not reflect the performance required by travelling athletes, there was no recognition of the need for ‘easy care.’ - There was no recognition given to the problem of measuring, manufacturing and distribution of a range of articles when the selected athlete could be domiciled anywhere in Australia. - There was no appreciation of such historical facts as Fletcher Jones, who had been unofficial suppliers dating back to the 1954 Olympics in Melbourne, and the Fletcher Jones board member, who was also an AWC board member, and was not in favour of the change. The project passed from Product Marketing to Public Relations, a big spending off-shoot of the AWC Chairman David Asimus, and due to the day to day operations of the project was passed to me and PR took care of the financial matters. The first task was to meet with the AOC and find out exactly their requirements. This lead to the production of a design and manufacturing brief, cointaining exact time lines for each event required to ensure an appropriate uniform on every athlete chosen to represent his/her country on the date given for the Opening Ceremony in Los Angeles. Working backwards the timeline becomes- 1. Noted the exact date of the Opening Ceremony. 2. Estimated the date for distributing completed garments to each athlete. 3. Estimated the time span available for measuring each athlete and commence making each component of the ensemble to the individual measurements of each athlete. 4. Decided the date for making the final choice of uniform design concept. 5. Decided the date for distribution of the design brief to selected designers. These five steps were spread out over a two year period. The Commonwealth Games occur midway between each Olympic Games, work on the Olympic uniform commences the week after the Commonwealth Games closing ceremony and MUST be ready by the prescribed day two years hence. The project also had to remain cognisant of trade politics existing within the span of the task, as well as the temperament of designers in general. It is no overstatement to say that in the past every designer in Australia believed they could, and should, be chosen to design the Australian Uniform. The final choice of designer almost always faced criticism from the fashion press and any designer who had been overlooked. However, with the contenders receiving an exacting brief the numbers of serious contenders greatly reduced. The Los Angeles Olympic Uniforms. A further reason for the AWC bid failure to design the LA uniform was that the AOC had already chosen Prue Acton to design it. This was based on her proven performance during previous games as she had a talent for creating good taste Australiana. Her design concepts also considered the effect when they were viewed on a single athlete as well as the impact when viewed on a 400 strong team coming on to the arena. A blazer trouser/skirt uniform in bright gold was chosen for the formal uniform. It was my task to select a pure wool faille fabric from Foster Valley weaving mill and have sufficient woven and ready within the prescribed timeline. The trouser/skirt fabric selected was a 60/40 wool polyester plain weave fabric from Macquarie Worsted. This fabric had a small effect thread of linen that was most attractive when dyed to match some eucalyptus bark Prue had brought back from central Australia. For the Opening Ceremony uniform, Prue designed a series of native fauna, a kookaburra for the men’s shirt and a pleated skirt with a rural scene of kangaroos, hills and plants. This presented an insurmountable printing challenge to the local printing industry as it had an unacceptably large repeat size and the number required (50) was also commercially unacceptable. The solution was a DIY mock up at RMIT and the employment of four student designers. The fabric selected for this garment was a light weight 19 micron, pure wool with a very high twist yarn in alternating S and Z twist, warp and weft. This fabric proved to be the solution to a very difficult problem, finding a wool product which is universally acceptable when worn next to the sin by young athletes competing in the heat of a Los Angeles summer. Modifications to this fabric were developed to exploit its success when facing the same problem in future games. Garment Making- The most exacting garment in the ensemble is the tailored blazer, plus the related trouser/skirt. Unfortunately tailoring athletes that come in various shapes and sizes such as; - Weight lifters develop an enormous chest, arms and neck size. A shirt made to a neck size of 52 would produce a shirt with cuffs extending well beyond the wearer’s hands. - Basketball players are up to 7 feet tall and garments relying ona chest measurement grading would produce a shirt with cuffs extending only to elbow length. - Swimmers develop enormous shoulders and slim hips, cyclists by contrast develop thighs I liken to tree trunks and a uniform featuring tight trousers must be avoided at all cost. Suffice to say many ensembles require specialist ‘one off’ treatment for many athletes. Meanwhile there is a comfortable in between group who can accept regular sizes so you can cater for these by having back up stock with plenty of built in contingencies. Athletes may be domiciled anywhere in Australia, this creates a fundamental problem of taking their measurements. The Fletcher Jones organisation was key to answering this problem due to their presence in every capital city, as well as many provincial towns around Australia. Each athlete on being selected for the Olympic Team was simultaneously requested to visit their nearest Fletcher Jones shop. The standardised measurement data collected was shared with the other manufacturers, e.g. Pelaco Shirts, Holeproof Socks and Knitwear, Maddison Belts, and even Hush Puppy Shoes. As the time for the Games approached the AOC made arrangements for combining meeting of all. Selected available athletes at the Australian Institute of Sport, Canberra, where, among other things, they were fitted and supplied with their uniform. The method evolved as follows.
Men’s cream coloured button up, collared shirt. Images of a kookaburra have been printed onto the shirt, a single kookaburra on the left breast and a pair of kookaburras on the reverse of the shirt. The kookaburras are printed in a brown tone to complement the cream colour of the fabric.
On tag - FM
australian wool corporation, 1984 los angeles olympics, olympic uniforms, men's uniforms
National Wool Museum
Textile - Quilt, India Flint, Red Blanket Wagga, 2008
Created for and entered in the 2008 ‘Expressions: The Wool Quilt Prize’- “The quilts connect us to our past and to our future, by interpreting Australian themes and telling our stories.”- Judy Hooworth, Quilter and Judge of the Prize. Donated to the National Wool Museum after the conclusion of the exhibition.
Eucalyptus dyed woolen blanket base with salvaged fabrics hand sewn to create a patchwork effect. The eucalyptus dye has been used to create different tones of brown and red throughout the design with further dyeing used to create leaf imprints on the fabrics. A running stitch has been used to quilt the wagga, the stitching is imperfect, in places tied on the surface of the wagga.
On reverse: INDIA FLINT PO BOX 209 Mt Pleasant 5235 0439 999 379 RED BLANKET WAGGA
expressions: the wool quilt prize, quilt, india flint, wagga
National Wool Museum
Photograph, Andrew Chapman, Shearing time at Cooninbil Station, 2006
Shearing time at Cooninbil Station, NSW, 2006. The Ferrier Wool Press sits among penned sheep in an old woolshed. Invented and made in Geelong, the Ferrier wool press could be found in woolsheds all over Australia and around the world.
A Green large wool press reaches towards the ceiling in the centre of the image. Rays of bright orange sunlight extend around the green wool press. Surrounding the wool press are numerous sheep. The sheep are penned within a large multileveled wooden woolshed.
shearing, ferrier wool press, cooninbil station