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Walhalla: fires, floods and tons of gold
In a remote, steep, and heavily timbered valley in the Victorian Alps, in the summer of 1862-63, a small party of prospectors found encouraging signs of gold at the fork of a tributary of the Thomson River. It was December. By February of the next year an immense quartz reef had been discovered.
This reef – Cohen’s Reef - yielded over 50 tonnes of gold, making Walhalla one of Victoria’s richest and most vibrant towns, and home to thousands: with hotels, shops, breweries, churches, school, jail and its own newspaper. It also had its own photographic studio, headed by the Lee brothers.
Several albums still survive of Walhalla at its peak, providing a fascinating, evocative photographic record of a 19th century mining town; capturing a moment that was to be shortlived.
In 1910 the railway arrived, but too late: the gold was disappearing. The town emptied out and began its long sleep, until the 1980s when restorations began in earnest, and electricity finally arrived in 1998.
William Joseph Bessell (ex Councillor of the Shire of Walhalla) was presented this series of photos in 1909 on the eve of his departure from Walhalla.
Film - Sophie Boord, 'An Interview with Yolanda Reynolds'
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
Film - Sophie Boord, 'An Interview with Yolanda Reynolds'
-There are a few of these albums that I have seen. This one is inscribed 15th of October, 1909, and it was actually presented to William Joseph Bessell. He was a Shire councillor. He gave notice that he was going to be leaving the area, and he was presented with this book, which was described in the local paper as a handsome collection of local views or something like that.
William Thrower had a small studio that straddled the creek in the foreground of this photo. And it was only a very tiny building that really didn't extend much beyond straddling the creek. You could look down between the floorboards and see the creek beneath, and it was all pretty rough. Anyway, he took some fabulous photos of Walhalla. He sold his business to William Harrison Lee, who was another noted Walhalla photographer. Most of these photos are taken by him.
There are so many photos of picnics on the Thomson River, people with a little billy and a little fire, sitting around dressed in long dresses, and hats, and bow ties, and suits, and all this, having a picnic on the banks of the Thomson River.
This one shows a cemetery, start of of South Walhalla. This is a good chance to dispel the myth. They are not buried standing up. They're buried horizontally. The other factor that people think about as soon as they think of the cemetery is the cursed grave. It's a grave to a chap called Mitchell. And he was killed in a mine accident when he was 34 years old. And the verse on his grave is pretty haunting. It just says that while you're looking at the grave, the same thing could happen to you. It's av very popular item that people seek out in the cemetery.
The cemetery's got 117 original monuments. And they tell a very interesting tale of the people buried there, a high mortality rate for children, and also miners who died in there prime. There was a section for pagans, Jews, and paupers. Quite a lot of paupers were buried there.
The hills around Walhalla and north of Walhalla were dotted with little huts. And they often died in their huts. They didn't seek medical attention. They'd lie there for days until somebody just chanced to find them. The thing that stands out to most people is the young children, the Gilsenan grave, for instance. There's about six children who all died within a couple of years of each other-- young children drying from dysentery, diarrhea, mostly intestinal diseases like that, or diphtheria.
The water course in Walhalla, the Stringer's Creek, was described as a common sewer. The livery stables were located over the creek. Manure just swept into it. Night pans were dumped into it. Everything was just thrown into the creek. It was just a seething mass of bacterial waste. There were outbreaks of scarlatina. Of course, it just spread rapidly. Families had large broods of children.
So many men in the Walhalla cemetery died from miner's compliant, which was a stripping of their lungs. Working underground drilling, the fibers from the rock face were inhaled. And basically, over time, just stripped their lungs of lining, and left them coughing blood, and very tired and lethargic. Yet they still worked on. Many worked on for years while they were suffering from miner's compliant.
Well, this is a great photo of the hospital. This photo shows the washing on the line. And the hospital's obviously in its prime. The last matron at the hospital was Matron Duffield. And she planned for her retirement by building what we today call the Matron's Cottage. And the local boys always used to talk and whisper about how when she went to bed at night, she used to dress in a jawstrap so that if she died overnight, her mouth wouldn't be open.
And when they found her, short of the room, she was dressed in burial garb. But before there was a hospital here, when somebody died from an accident, there had to be an inquest conducted. And that was usually conducted in a room at a hotel. I don't think the publicans really liked the idea too much, but they had to provide that room.
The steel bridge, that was actually located at Poverty Point, which was a congregation of Italian woodcutters. In 1900, there were four young men boating on the river. And two children from Poverty Point were watching. And the men sidled up to the bank, and asked them if they would like to join them on the craft. And they did. And no sooner had they got on to the little boat and pedaled out, and it capsized, and the whole six drowned in the river. None of them could swim.
Of course, the Star Hotel, being the last time hotel here of the original hotels to survive, it was a hub of the town for a few decades until it burned down in 1951. But everything happened at the Star Hotel. That was where everybody went and had their favorite seat. And all the rest of it. It had a wicked furnace, and it was around Christmas. And they're making Christmas puddings. And the chap who owned it frugally stoked it with wood, so the story goes, instead briquettes, wood be more available in those days, and cheaper. And it just burst into flame. And of course, being an old weatherboard building, it was all over in a few minutes.
The long tunnel company incline shaft photo-- it shows the miners going down the incline. And the chap on the right hand side with a cigarette hanging out his mouth is John Reynolds, my husband's grandfather. And he had been a miner all his life, born and bred here. When they worked underground, they worked in mud and water, often up to their knees. And they used to smear mutton fat over their legs to insulate their skin.
And also there's a tale. I don't know how true it is. Apparently, they grew mustaches. The idea then was that when they breathed in the dust, it would filter through the mustache. Because they all feared miner's compliant. They knew it was a legacy of working underground. The incline shaft actually went down 4,500 feet, I believe. It really went right down into bowels of the Earth.
Of course, the water wheel. Trekking through the Baw Baws, that was a very popular pastime. There's lots of oral history on trips through the Baw Baws. Bruntons Bridge. Of course, packhorses horses, this is the way they brought everything into town.
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Local Historian and author Yolanda Reynolds talks about Walhalla in relation to an album of pre-1905 photographs of Walhalla, a boom and bust goldrush town in the Baw Baw ranges.
Film - Sophie Boord, 'Interview with Ollie Dobratz'
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
Film - Sophie Boord, 'Interview with Ollie Dobratz'
The first page here, it's the left-hand branch of the township. There are two buildings that stand out which are still in existence today. It is the band rotunda and the Masonic Lodge which, at one stage, was a church. The township was, of course, quite a lively place in those days. Altogether with the outlying suburbs, there would be about 5,000 people living here.
There's the main street. Very many houses all have gone. Being in Gippsland, a lot of the houses were built out of wood. Over the years, wood deteriorates, crumbles, and a lot of houses burned, especially after the mines closed.
The hills are fairly bare. All the timber was used up in the mines. In those days, steam was the main power. And you had to have lots and lots of firewood for the boilers. Firewood from the northern end of town used to get shot through there to the main street, and then collected and taken to the mines.
In those days, of course, transport was by bullock teams and horse teams. All the machinery was brought in here. And it was a very, very difficult task.
We know for a fact that one water wheel was trundled along as a wheel from Port Albert all the way behind a bullock team. We've got the bits and pieces here in Walhalla to rebuild this water wheel. And one of these days, I hope that will come true.
There's the gold or part of it. Over 14 tons of gold was taken out of Walhalla. Now today, it would be a small fortune indeed if we could only get our hands on to it.
There it is, electrical machinery in the Long Tunnel Mine. Great big generators there. In the beginning, of course, all light was supplied by candles. But then when electricity became available, they installed this machinery in here. This was the first rural spot in Victoria where they used electricity.
There's the milk boy. Two containers of his milk. And he used to deliver from house to house, whoever wanted milk.
While I was living here, twice, I had the pleasure of seeing snow here in Walhalla. It's just a different picture altogether. You wake up in the morning, everything is still, and quiet, and looks beautiful.
Of course, people that lived here in those days went for picnics and outings to get away from daily working life. And they went further in where there is still bush. You can see a lot of beautiful photos here of the tall trees that Gippsland is known for.
This is the gorge along the Stringers Creek. The mine tailings, which the crushers discarded, could be worked again as it was washed down in the creek. At this spot here, the sand that collected there was put again through a process to get that little bit of gold out of it.
There's the old Star Hotel, the last hotel and bar in Walhalla until 1951. And then it burned down. There's a chap here, Michael Leaney, who's very, very keen on Walhalla. He managed to get all the titles organized, and he rebuilt a replica of the Star Hotel.
A photo of the Long Tunnel Extended Mine. You see the mullock dam, which is quite clearly seen from the road as you go past there. You can see a big stack of firewood up there for all the boilers, the engines to make the steam. But also, there is the crushing house, that battery house. That's the building I would like to see re-erected one of these days again.
The Long Tunnel Mine, which was the most successful mine, was closed in 1914. The Great War started. People drifted away. And also, the problem of the water as they had to go deeper and deeper to chase the reef, and the lack of timber. And all these facts together made it uneconomical for them to carry on.
Now the Long Tunnel Extended Mine is still open to some degree. It is our tourist mine. I was one of the forming committee members when the Mines Department was threatening to blow up the entrance because people used to go in there all the time and could get into trouble. So we decided to form a committee to look after the mine so that it is not lost altogether. And people, when they come up here, can see some of the old workings.
I was privileged to go down to the 300-foot level. You can see still the three compartments. Two compartments for the cages to go up and down in. They brought the little skips with the mullock up. And the other cage where the miners used to go down worked always in tandem. And there is also the third compartment in the shaft.
All along from the very bottom, there is a set of ladders. In case the windup broke down and the cages wouldn't work, the miners had to be able to get out. So they used ladders. Now in the end, that mine was a kilometer deep. I don't fancy climbing all those ladders to get to the top.
Most of the time, they were working up to their knees or even higher in water. So it was very, very difficult work for them.
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Curator of the Walhalla (Post Office) Museum and former guide of the Walhalla mines, Ollie Dobratz talks about the history of the town, while perusing images from an album of pre-1905 Walhalla images.
Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Wheel for treating tailings', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Goods Wagon', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Water wheel for saving gold', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Winter', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Milk carrier', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Left hand branch', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Left hand branch 2', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W.H. Lee (photographer), 'Granite rocks - Baw Baw', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W.H. Lee (photographer), 'Granite Rocks - Baw Baw', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W.H. Lee (photographer), "Blackbutt" or Mountain Ash - Baw Baw', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W.H. Lee (photographer), 'Mushroom Rock - Baw Baw', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Pack horses with mining supplies', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Thomson River Copper mine', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W.H. Lee (Photographer), 'Thomson River', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Right hand branch', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Bird's eye view', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Coach Road', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Coach Road in Winter', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Junction', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Long Tunnel Coy's incline shafts', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Long Tunnel extended mine', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Long Tunnel Gold Mine', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'A snow scene', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'FernGully on road to Baw Baw', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Walhalla looking north', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'South Walhalla', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Fryer's "shute"-Toongabbie Road', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Little Joe at Cooks Corner', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Brunton - Toongabbie Road', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Centre of town', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Retorted and smelted gold from mines', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W.H. Lee (photographer), 'Steel bridge - Thomson River', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Electrical machinery Long Tunnel gold mine', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of M
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Photograph - 'Locomotive for hauling firewood for mines', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Wood tramway', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - 'Hospital', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Cascade Valley - Baw Baw', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
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Photograph - W. Lee (photographer), 'Stringer's Creek in flood', undated, MYLI: My Community Library
Courtesy of MYLI: My Community Library
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