Showing 956 items
matching c hands
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Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia Inc
Instructions
This item is part of the Thomas Caine Tool Collection, owned by The National Trust of Australia (Victoria) and curated by the Hand Tools Preservation Association of Australia.Package of instructions white sewing m/c -
Hand Tool Preservation Association of Australia Inc
Instructions
This item is part of the Thomas Caine Tool Collection, owned by The National Trust of Australia (Victoria) and curated by the Hand Tools Preservation Association of Australia.Insruction fitting unique sash balance type C -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Map, Mitcham, 1880s?
Hand drawn map of area north and south of Whitehorse Road and South of Canterbury Road c.1880-1900.Hand drawn map of area north and south of Whitehorse Road and South of Canterbury Road c.1880-1900. Probably sketched by a McClare descendant. Includes locations and names of settlers of that time.Hand drawn map of area north and south of Whitehorse Road and South of Canterbury Road c.1880-1900. whitehorse road, mitcham, mitcham road, mitcham, l l vale road, vermont, canterbury road, mitcham -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Functional object - Photo In Case
Carte de Visite. Portrait photograph, c. 2.25x3.5 ins.card mounted, with the photographer's name, etc. on the back. Cost cut by use of multiple lens. Collected (friends, celebrities, etc.) , for albums; not used as visiting cards. Mainly 1860s, but the fashion revived in the 1890s with a larger 'cabinet card'Hand tinted, with oil paint Carte de Viste of a middle aged woman. Held in a hinged leather bound case with a clip fastener. Photo surrounded by patterned gold leaf on left hand inner side. The right hand side covered with padded brown velvet. Daguerreotype.photography, photographs / slides / film -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Pamphlet, Ceramic Mosaic Tiles - Catalogue C, 1929
Catalogue of designs for Australian Tessellated Tile Company Proprietary Limited. established 1866,Catalogue of designs for Australian Tessellated Tile Company Proprietary Limited. established 1866, together with: advertisement for company in The Clay Products Journal of Australia, May 1944 and a hand coloured tile design on specialised graph paper.Catalogue of designs for Australian Tessellated Tile Company Proprietary Limited. established 1866,australian tesselated tile co. pty. ltd., tiles, tile factories -
City of Ballarat Libraries
Leporello, Ballarat Registered c.1880s
This leporello photo album, published by A.J Punshon, Bookseller contains 12 unique scenes around Ballarat, notably the Botanical Gardens and the Town Hall. The images appear hand drawn and are possibly lithographs. Inside the back-cover of the leporello is a tiny sticker identifying A.J Punshon Bookseller as the publisher or supplier. This sticker might be the only evidence of Punshon in business in Ballarat, apart from a single entry in Niven's 1888 Ballarat and District Directory, which gives his occupation as bookseller and address as 82 Dawson Street south. The only result from a search in Trove indicates he published the Australian Almanac for 1887. His name is not familiar as one of the booksellers of Ballarat. Alfred James Punshon was born in Prahan in 1856 to Isabella Lockwood and Robert Punshon; he married Elizabeth Lyons of Buningyong in 1881, they had two daughters, Ethel Mary in 1882 and Flora Hazel in 1894. It seems the family moved to Melbourne after Flora's birth. Elizabeth Punshon died in St.Kilda 1913 and Alfred died in 1938, in South Yarra. It seems in the early 1880's he set up as a bookseller and published at least two books but this is all we have been able to find out. If you have any additional information on Alfred Punshon, we would be pleased to hear it in the comments below! leporello, punshon family, lithograph, ballarat, publishing, publisher, album -
Bialik College
Accessory - School bag, c. 1980s
School bag, c. 1980s. Appears unused. Label sewed into inside lining: ANOTHER / ARKA / Hand Crafted / PRODUCT / Huntingdale Victoria Please contact [email protected] to request access to this record.Blue vinyl, yellow trim. -
Bialik College
Photograph (item) - Students gardening, c. 1980s
... Students holding up dirty hands from gardening, c. 1980s... hands from gardening, c. 1980s. Please contact archives ...Students holding up dirty hands from gardening, c. 1980s. Please contact [email protected] to request access to this record. -
Bialik College
Photograph (item) - Students in the foyer of Shakespeare Grove, c.1963-1964
Two students - Sam Berman and Teena Richter - holding hands in the foyer of Shakespeare Grove, c.1963-1964. Please contact [email protected] to request access to this record.1960s, uniform -
Bialik College
Booklet (item) - Scrapbook of photographs, c. 1980s
... Scrapbook of photographs and hand-written captions, c... and hand-written captions, c. 1980s. Includes 'Creation ...Scrapbook of photographs and hand-written captions, c. 1980s. Includes 'Creation of the world' display, students eating potatoes, sports day and an excursion to Healesville Sanctuary. Please contact [email protected] to request access to this record.sport -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Stawell Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Mr Chaming & Mrs Eliza Chamings nee Harris from Great Western
Mr and Mrs Chamings nee Eliza Harris Great Western B/W photo Studio Ornate arches and pillars background chairs and fire screen. Left Mr Chamings Wearing a three piece suit. Corsage in lapel. Fob watch chain across waistcoat. Mrs Camings wearing dark travelling dress. flat beribboned hat. drop necklace. belt. Heart bar brooch. hold folded umbrella in gloved hand both posing in front of chair.Front: Stawell Photographic Co., Main Street, Close Railway. C. Hewitt, Manager. Reverse: Mr and Mrs. Chamings nee Eliza Harris. Stamp Stwell Photographic Co. Close Railway Station C. Hewitt, Manager.stawell -
Clunes Museum
Work on paper - SKETCH BOOK
THE STUDENT MAY HAVE BEEN MARIA DUNN WHO ATTENDED THE ST. THOMAS R. C. SCHOOLA SCHOOL BOOK OF MAPS, HAND PRODUCED BY SCHOOL STUDENTSSEE OVERlocal history, book, school, education, schools, st. thomas aquinas -
Clunes Museum
Painting, WILL LONGSTAFF, MENIN GATE AT MIDNIGHT, 1927
COPY OF MENIN GATE HELD AT CLUNES R.S.L. MENIN GATE WAS UNVEILED ON SUNDAY JULY 24th 1927. A MEMORIAL TO THE ARMIES OF BRITISH EMPIRE WHO STOOD THERE 1914 - 1918. AND TO THOSE OF THEIR DEAD WHO HAVE KNOWN NO GRAVE. WILL LONGSTAFF WAS SO MOVED HE MADE THE PAINTING WHICH WAS UNVEILED JULY 27th THE PAINTING IS NOW HANGING IN AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL IN CANBERRA.BOROUGH OF TALBOT AND CLUNES.1 FRAMED COPY OF PAINTING "MENIN GATE AT MIDNIGHT" .2 DOCUMENT ENTITLED "THE GHOSTS OF MENIN GATE - THE STORY OF CAPTAIN WILL LONGSTAFF'S GREAT ALLEGORICAL PAINTING" 3. FRAMED COPY OF PAINTING "MENIN GATE" BY WILL LONGSTAFF.3 BRASS PLATE ATTACHED TO THE WOODEN FRAME BELOW THE IMAGE INSCRIBED -"MENIN GATE AT MIDNIGHT, COPYRIGHT, RESERVED BY WILL LONGSTAFFWPRESENTED TO THE COMMONWEALTH OF AUSTRALIA BY LORD WOOLLAVINGTON A SECOND BRASS PLATE IS ATTACHED TO THE FRAME AT THE RIGHT HAND SIDE INSCRIBED "PRESENTED TO THE MAYOR CR N. C. FOULKES AND COUNCILLORS OF THE BOROUGH OF CLUNES JULY 1929 .1 BRASS PLATE ATTACHED TO THE WOODEN FRAME BELOW THE IMAGE INSCRIBED "MENIN GATE AT MIDNIGHT"local history, illustration, copy, longstaff, sir john -
Bendigo Military Museum
Album - ALBUM, POSTCARD, WW1, 1914-1919
They are addressed from a George to his wife Louie. WW1. Item in the collection re George Bailey Jackson, refer cat No 3446P for his service details.This is a purchased buckram book. On front it shows gold line dropping down froma horizontal bar. The tips of the gold lines show a Fleur De Lys on each tip. The phrase "Postcard Album" is also printed in gold. Inside are numerous pages cut with various slots to hold postcards. The postcards are brilliant, beautiful and awe inspiring - their colours, cottons etc. Most are sewn, some are hand painted. Some have intricate lace work.A lot of postcards have "To Louie from George" (Louie possibly his wife), Louie was c/o address Nth Ryde, Isle of Wight, England. An early card is addressed to Miss Louie Hobbs, Southampton, England. A lot are about the Army Service Corps.postcards, ww1, passchendaele barracks trust -
Mont De Lancey
Book, C. French, F.L.S., F.R.H.S, A Handbook of the Destructive Insects of Victoria, with notes on the methods to be adopted to check and extirpate them, 1893
A handbook of the destructive insects of Victoria with notes on the methods to be adopted to check and extirpate them with useful diagrams and illustrations of machines and pumps and the plants.A brown hardcover handbook with the title printed in gold lettering on the front cover Handbook of the Destructive Insects of Victoria Part II by C. French, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., Government entomologist with the price 2/6. at the bottom right hand corner. The spine has the title and author printed in gold. T. Sebire March 29th 1894 is written in black ink on the top right of the title and contents pages. There are coloured plates and black and white illustrations, an appendix and drawings of various pumps and equipment required for use. Loose pages, some tears, and tanning is noted. 222p. non-fictionA handbook of the destructive insects of Victoria with notes on the methods to be adopted to check and extirpate them with useful diagrams and illustrations of machines and pumps and the plants.agriculture, pest control, entomology -
Mont De Lancey
Book, Edith F. Carey et al, The Channel Islands, 1924
An up-to-date account of The Channel Islands to sketch out the history of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney and Sark, pointing out a few of the many legends and traditions associated with them, the storm and stress through which they have battled, some of the remnants of feudalism which they have managed to preserve, and certain conspicuous men and women who once lived in them. Mr Wimbush has painted them as they are - these delectable fragments of France.A blue self patterned hardcover non fiction book with the title printed in gold lettering: Channel Islands Edith. Carey (author), Henry Wimbush (illustrator) and the publisher A&C Black at the bottom.It has a damaged white paper dustjacket with the same information printed in blue lettering as well as a coloured illustration of The Sister Rocks, Alderney in a blue lined frame. The back of the jacket has a list of Books and Postcards on the Channel Islands with details and prices. There is an inscription on the right hand endpapers written in faded black ink. Opposite the tile page is a frontispiece coloured illustration of St. Peter-Port, Guernsey, from the Pool. There are several coloured illustrations throughout the book.p.226non-fictionAn up-to-date account of The Channel Islands to sketch out the history of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney and Sark, pointing out a few of the many legends and traditions associated with them, the storm and stress through which they have battled, some of the remnants of feudalism which they have managed to preserve, and certain conspicuous men and women who once lived in them. Mr Wimbush has painted them as they are - these delectable fragments of France.travel books, books, channle islands, history -
Melbourne Legacy
Photograph, Planting Olive Tree at Shrine 1973, 1973
A photo of Frank Doolan standing by the Olive Tree of Peace planted in the Western Lawn of the Shrine of Remembrance in 1973 to commemorate the first fifty years of Legacy. Legatee Frank Doolan was a long serving member of Legacy and given the honour of planting the tree. The plaque reads "1923 1973 / This olive tree symbolising peace marks fifty years of Legacy service to the widows of ex-servicemen and their children." 1973 was the Golden Jubilee year of Legacy (see also item 00441).A record of events to commemorate the golden jubilee of Legacy.Black and white photo of Frank Doolan by the olive tree planted at the Shrine.The words "Planting Olive Tree at Shrine" typed in black on white tape and fixed to bottom of photo. Stamped on back of photo: 'This photograph is with the compliments of The Ministry of Tourism Government of Victoria. Please acknowledge, Photo Michael Cheshire' Hand written in blue biro, 'Frank Doolan' 54x68 F/c Pic. 1.golden jubilee, tree planting, frank doolan, 50th anniversary -
Ballarat Tramway Museum
Photograph - Digital image, 10/11/1947 12:00:00 AM
... .-Wood" and "C" in top right hand corner...." and "C" in top right hand corner. Yields information about ...Yields information about the appearance of one of Ballarat Scrubber tram at work in Wendouree Parade in 1947.Digital image from the Wal Jack Ballarat Album of the Ballarat Scrubber, in Lydiard St North, cleaning out a drain - the lid is in front of the tram. Photo taken 10-11-47. Has Lydiard St North buildings in the background. See image i2 for rear of photograph.on rear of photo in ink, "SEC Ballarat Tramways scrubber car formerly "Sebastopol" car No. 23 Lydiard St, 10.11.47 L.M.-Wood" and "C" in top right hand corner.trams, tramways, scrubber tram, lydiard st north, scrubber -
Ballarat Tramway Museum
Pamphlet, The Forest City Electric Co. Limited England, "Automatic Tramway and Crossing Signals", c1948
Yields information about the types of tramway signals available for use on tramways systems. The type BY was used by the SEC in Ballarat and Bendigo.Four page Pamphlet or Brochure Forest City ATS1, printed brochure with illustrations "Automatic Tramway and Crossing Signals" – four types noted. Four types: 1. Tramway type "C: Car counting signal, up to 10 cars 2. Tramway type "BY" - non car counting signals 3. Level crossing signal operated by approaching cars 4. Turning Warning signals with notes on rear page of the set up for automatic control signals for rail crossings on roads, docks etc. Date stamped by SEC 20/9/1949 on front cover.Has “218” in biro in bottom left hand corner.trams, tramways, forest city signals, level crossings, signals -
Ballarat Tramway Museum
Photograph - Black & White Photograph/s, Keith Kings, 29/12/1947 12:00:00 AM
Black and White print contained within the Wal Jack Bendigo and Geelong Album, see Reg Item 5003 for more details. Photograph of No. 26 in Mitchell St Bendigo, outbound to Quarry Hill with the Terminus Hotel in the background. Wal's album notes date the photo as 29-12-1947. Photo by Leon Marshall Wood. In ink on rear "SEC of Victoria, Bendigo, Bogie drop centre car No.26 acquired from M&MTB 1947, ex MMTB "C" class, owned originally by Hawthorn Tramways Trust". In pencil, different hand writing "ex 135" and in bottom left hand corner, Leon Marshall Wood photo number "SEC 22" written in.trams, tramways, bendigo, bogie trams, quarry hill, mitchell st, tram 26 -
Ballarat Tramway Museum
Photograph - Black & White Photograph/s, Keith Kings, 15/05/1991 12:00:00 AM
Black and White print contained within the Wal Jack Bendigo and Geelong Album, see Reg Item 5003 for more details. Photo of MMTB Maximum Traction Car No. 37 loaded onto a Yellow Express truck leaving Preston workshops with the "hump" behind the tram. Tram has the war time stripes, no trolley pole and no destination boxes. One of the bogies is loaded on the goose neck of the truck. Tram became Geelong No. 38. Photo taken 15/5/1951 by Keith Kings. On rear in blue ink "Melbourne M&MTB "C-37 on Yellow Express low-loading semi trailer truck, leaving Preston Workshops for Geelong, after sale to the SEC. Became Geelong No. 38. (15.5.51). In the top left hand corner is the Keith Kings copyright stamp with the number "E(t)(v)" written in.trams, tramways, geelong, preston workshops, maximum traction, bogie trams, corio terrace, tram 37, tram 38 -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Clothing - Clothing, Theatrical props,Ormond Choral Society c 1950, c1950
Theatrical clothing props for Ormond Choral Society c 1950Theatrical Societies were part of the community recreation for settlers in post World War 11 City of Moorabbin 5 pieces of clothing used by Ormond Choral Society a) 1/2 Apron in white organza with green binding and a frill, waist ties and a heart shaped pocket, ; b) Headband white cotton with rows of red stitching and elastic tie; c) pleated collar white cotton with neckband and press stud; d) small blue woolen neck scarf, triangular, e) White cotton hand knitted glovesormond theatrical society, mckinnon, bentleigh, moorabbin, reed gladys, clark judy clothing, actors, early settlers -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book, Glenfine South and South Berry Journal
This Book is associated with former Ballarat School of Mines Student Richard Squire (1875-1876). Gift of the Squire FamilyGreen water marked linen covered journal with maroon spine with red feint lined blue pages. Label on front cover is cream with black printing JOURNAL with handwritten DATA RISIS GLENFINE SOUTH -SOUTH BERRY G.S & S.B Hand written in black and red ink. Plan in back with scale 20 chains to one inch - Has an index. Handwritten on title page in black ink Address of sawmiller T. J. Brown, Mount Rowan D. W. Hambly 317 Ligar St, Ballarat J. Freeman, C/O Mrs H Simons, Lynch St, Footscray Sleemans Prescription for the bladder in 19009 Mixture No 55983 Tabloids No 55982glenfine south, south berry, sleemans, mining, gold mining, glenfine consols, reef, weights of quartz, blacksmiths tools, australian and eagle, davies south east reef drive, brawns, eaglehawk junction, simons letter, machinery, puddlng plant, poppet heads, winding plant, creswick, mosquito creek, frenchmans gully, spring hill, a. h. welsh, squire, petticoat gully -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book, South Berry Consols Journal
This book is associated with former Ballarat School of Mines Student Richard Squire (1875-1876). Gift of the Squire FamilyGreen water marked linen covered journal with maroon spine with red feint lined blue pages. Label on front cover is cream with black printing JOURNAL with handwritten SOUTH BERRY CONSOLS hand written in black and red ink. Pages held together inside the book with three metal clipsSouth Berry Consols written on front cover mining, gold mining, south berry, miners' wages, wages, ballarat, 1913, a. gilles, a. g. shaw, w. a. bain, grong grong railway station, h. c. handford, j. b. williams, h. a. goddard, r. j. liddicoat, belmore reefs, government stock route, berembed station, mcerven -
Bendigo Military Museum
Memorabilia - PENNANT AAOC, C.WW2
Australian Army Ordnance Corp pennant from c. WWII.Triangular shape - blue felt with red felt strip and two blue felt attachment strips at wide end. Australian Commonwealth Military Forces Rising Sun badge printed on left hand side and A.A.O.C in red print across pennant.pennant, memorabilia, aaoc -
Rutherglen Historical Society
Financial record - Receipt, T. Drenen, 14/8/1914 (Exact)
It is believed that the C. Lim Kee who was paying these rates was Charles Lim Kee. According to the Rutherglen Sun September 11, 1896 he was starting a business known as the Cash Bakery in premises previously occupied by Conrad Huhs. In 1903 he moved to new premises next to the Bank of Victoria. By 1908 he had a shop and rooms in Main Street, and houses in Wallace Street and Murray Street. Part of a collection of business documents found under the floor of a building in Main Street when it was being renovated. At that time the owner was Don Chambers, and the premises was occupied as the Chambers Riteway Supermarket. The location (134 Main Street) is currently (2022) occupied by Miegel’s Pharmacy Rutherglen. Receipt from Rutherglen Waterworks Trust for water rates for a house in Murray Street. The form is printed on paper with hand written details reproduced with carbon paper.,"Rutherglen Waterworks Trust, No. of service 278. [receipt no.]: 605. Rutherglen, August 14th 1914. Received from Mr C. Lim Kee the sum of --- Pounds twelve Shillings and --- Pence, being Water Rate on a House or Land situate in house, Murray Street Rutherglen Urban Waterworks District. From 1st July to 31st Dec 1914." Signed A.H. Thompson, Collector.lim kee, rutherglen waterworks trust, water rates, business documents, 134 main street, chambers riteway supermarket