Porthole Glass, edge has rough chipped finish. Dia 24cm x 2.2cm thick.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Ink pot glass disc shape with small opening at top. Slightly chipped around lip.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

ID Disks. And 4 Australia Badges & 4 Rising Suns Chipper S R. #7963personal item, ww1, army

Meritorious Medal presentation to Ralph E Chipper by RSL HQ Canberra 8th March 1990ralph chipper, rsl meritorious medal

A hand made wooden chip carved bottle holder ( a style of carving in which knives or chisels are used to remove small chips of the material from a flat surface in a single piece). It is an intricate design and has a tall handle with two wide holes on each side.bottle-holder domestic table-setting handcraft carving

Black and white photo of a Scalebuoy set up beside a Wood Chip Heater Unit (Bath). Typed on the back: Wood Chip Heater Unit (Bath). Fitted direct to heater here hot or cold Scalebuoy treated water may be had at any moment.sciences, instruments - general, scalebuoy, bill ashman collection - correspondence, scalebuoy wood chip heater unit (bath)

A clear glass bottle. It has one flat side and a screw thread. The lip has been chipped.On base - S 193 AGM 926 2glass-container bottle australian-glass-manufacturers

Bricks from "Willis Vale' home of the Partington family of Greensborough. Built in 1840, Willis Vale was owned by the Partington family from 1878 to 1947. It was a 2 storey house overlooking the Plenty River and set in 150 acres of farmland. The Partingtons moved out in 1947 and the house was vandalised shortly after. It was destroyed by fire in the 1960s.The bricks are a link to pioneer homes and farms in the area.Hand made clay bricks, light red in colour. All faces are flat.. One brick is chipped. Accompanying note: Hand made bricks from Partington house in Greensborough. Donated by Alan Partington.willis vale, partington family, greensborough, alan partington, bricks

This greenstone axe has a hand grip chipped on one end and a smooth arc shaped cutting edge.

Bottle, large, yellow clay bottle, glazed at neck and chipped at neck, something rattles inside; no stopper. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, clay bottle, earthenware bottle, household container, domestic

This bottle was made in Scotland and recovered decades later from a shipwreck along the coast of Victoria. It may have been amongst the ship's cargo, its provisions or amongst a passenger's personal luggage. It is now part of the John Chance collection. Stoneware bottles similar to this one were in common use during the mid-to-late 19th century. They were used to store and transport. The bottles were handmade using either a potter's wheel or in moulds such as a plaster mould, which gave the bottles uniformity in size and shape. The bottle would then be fired and glazed in a hot kiln. Makers often identified their bottles with the impression of a small symbol or adding a colour to the mouth. The manufacturer usually stamped their bottles with their name and logo, and sometimes a message that the bottle remained their property and should be returned to them. The bottles could then be cleaned and refilled. DUNDAS POTTERY WORKS - The Dundas Pottery works were established in 1828 by William Johnstone in partnership with John Forsyth and John Mc Coll. Located where the Forth and Clyde Canal joined the Monkland Canal, North of Glasgow. Johnstone sold the pottery in 1835 to Robert Cochran and James Couper. Mc Coll was retained as manager until 1837when in 1839 Cochran & Couper sold the pottery and purchased the St Rollex Glass Works. George Duncan took over briefly but died in 1841, with the pottery possibly being run by his widow Helen and a potter named Alexander Paul. James Miller was the manager at the time and he bought the pottery in 1856, in partnership with John Moody. Miller's long and careful stewardship of the pottery saw success from the export market which allowed him to purchase the North British pottery in 1867 until 1874 when it was sold. In 1875, Miller, in partnership with John Young, leased part of Caledonian Pottery, naming it Crown Pottery, however, it burned down in 1879. In the early 1880s, Young extended the pottery and named it Milton Pottery. Miller’s son, James W., became a partner in Milton pottery in 1905. James Miller Snr died in 1905 and the company continued as a limited liability company, being sold to the Borax Consolidation Ltd in 1929, but it was unsuccessful and Possil pottery purchased some of the company's equipment before it finally closed in 1932. From 1828 until the James Miller period of circa 1856, the pottery produced salt-glazed stoneware for the local industrial trade; mainly bottles and drain pipes. James Miller produced various bottles, whisky and acid jars, casks, butter crocks, jam jars and domestic wares in Bristol glaze. He streamlined the water filter manufacturing, which had become a specialty of the pottery, and a dedicated section of the pottery was created solely for their production, which was exported worldwide.This stoneware bottle is historically significant for its manufacture and use in the late 19th to the early 20th century. This bottle is historically significant for its connection with the well-known stoneware manufacturers, Dundas Pottery of Glasgow, Scotland. The bottle is also significant as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver, from a wreck on the coast of Victoria in the 1960s-70s. Items that come from several wrecks along Victoria's coast have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value.Bottle, salt glazed stoneware, beige, large chip on lip of bottle. Inscription stamped near base.Stamp: [symbol of concentric ovals], text within the symbol "PORT DUNDAS POTTERY COY." and "GLASGOW". Stamp:[Symbol - square with short vertical line in centre of base line]flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, john chance, shipwreck artefact, stoneware, ironstone, pottery, bottle, port dundas pottery, glasgow, antique bottle, william johnstone

Pen Holder is Made of Clay, has 9 holes for pens Small Chip in the Side Is Painted RoundedMade in Japan

Negative of drums of chip like material beside a building. Large stacks of wood in the background and beside the building.sciences, bill ashman collection - correspondence, negative

Black and white negative of some chip like material beside a building. Stacks of wood also in the picture.sciences, bill ashman collection - correspondence, negative

Advertising material for Briar Hill Fish and Chips Fridge magnet printed in colour, with printed menu printed in blue, folded trwicefish and chips, briar hill

Chip-carved by the Late Miss E.M. Lord in 1899.Wooden 'Mothering' chair, with a low seat, and a high panel back, with has a heart shape cut-out.chairs

This hospital equipment was used in the Tawonga District General Hospital which was built in the 1950s specifically for the increase in population due to the Kiewa Hydro Scheme.Historical: Shows the development of scientific hospital equipment. Provenance: Used in the Tawonga District General Hospital which was remote.White ceramic urinal bottle. Sits on a flat base with a hollow sphere above it reaching out to a hollow cylinder with a handle on top. Used by male patients who were unable to use the toilet facilities, following surgery or a severe illness.Under the base: R. FOWLER LIMITED / FOWLER WARE / AUSTRALIA and UKV 269 sticker Is chipped at the openinghospital equipment, tawonga district hospital, mt beauty hospital

R.A.A.F. Dakota, Caribou Hercules Transport Aircraft Flying in formation.Aluminium frame, glass, chip-board rear photo of R.A.A.F. Dakota, Caribou Hercules Transport Flying in formation.small sign/sticker "GEOMETRICS" stuck on the back of the picture framer.a.a.f., dakota, cariboo

2 sheave wood block with straps, becket with holes for bolt. Wood has cracks and chips taken out.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wood block

Jar, ceramic cylindrical in shape with neck and wide spout, glazed brown. Broken into three pieces and chipped at base.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jar

Painted vase, chipped but covered with gold paint. Colours: blue, pink, white, green, red, yellow, gold.Sorrento

Cream enamel bowl with green chipped rim and with straight sides gradually widening from the base. On the base is a blue logo.Logo: (Chines symbols) Bumper Harvest Made in China around a sketch of corn. Underneath13P 107 14cmenamel. bowl.

Negative of a man beside a building, standing beside heaped drums of a chip like material. Also in the picture are heaps of wood.sciences, bill ashman collection - correspondence, negative of a man at a building