The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden paddle strop, (or raxor strop or cushion strop). Strop has two leather sides, numbered 1 and 2, on a slotted paddle. Marked on handle “Hamon”. Sides are numbered 1 and 2. Has two slits in body of strop. "Hamon" stamped on handle. "Hamon" stamped on handle. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wooden strop, paddle strop, strop, razor strop, shaving accessory, barber's equipment, personal grooming

This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden strop, paddle strop design (sometimes called razor strop). Has leather attached to one side. Has two slits in body of strop. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, strop, paddle strop, personal effects, shaving equipment, razor strop, barber's equipment

This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden strop, paddle strop design (sometimes called razor strop). Has leather attached to one side. Sides are numbered 1 and 2. Has two slits in body of strop. Stamped Hamon Paris France. "Hamon Paris France. "flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, paddle strop, strop, shaving equipment, personal effects, barber's equipment, personal grooming accessory

The location of the photo was in the vicinity of Myrtlebank, upper Halls Gap. The pool was called "Mirror Pool"Photo shows large pool of water bordered by the sandy banks of a creek (Fyans Creek).Hand written "A Happy New Year to all PS this is close to where we live Typed Post card, correspondence, Address only Kodak, Australia. 'Mirror Pool" written in ink in top, left border of photo.scenery

Initially listed as T J Connelly's Tin shop, this premises on the corner of High and Forest Street, expanded to include all items of ironmongery. By 1878 they were advertising gas stoves for sale and installation.The item is alphabetical customer list of T.J. Connolly, Ironmongers, Sandhurst. Each handwritten page lists the customer name and order number. Note: corresponding orders are not in this book. The book does not have a date reference in it. The book has a flexible cardboard cover and the pages are bound together with string. This item is part of the Margaret Roberts Collection.There is a black mark at the bottom right-hand side of the front cover. There are some grey lead notes on the inside front cover. There are two mirrored ink marks on the back inside cover and last page.margaret roberts collection, ironmongers, forest street, bendigo businesses

The Grand Order of Oddfellows was a friendly Society founded in Manchester in 1798. It began in Australia in 1844 with the first Victorian branch established in 1854. The first mention of the Eaglehawk group was in 1868.Small ceremonial apron for the "Grand United order of Odd Fellows" on white/cream silk cotton sateen with blue tape border. Centre to screen print main panel has large printed crest showing quartered shield (top left) hour glass (top right) crossed keys (bottom right) dove with olive branch (bottom left) Noah's Ark. In centre of shield is a right hand palm forward with heart symbol. Supporters to shield, woman left holding sword and scales next to seated lion, woman on right holding mirror and flaming torch next to seated sheep. In centre above the shield is a seated women with four children, one at breast. Banner at base of women and shield reads "Amicitia Amor et Veritas". Long tapes top left and top right corners. At base of print are two hands joined in a handshake in a panel surrounded by flowers.In pen and ink on back "George Braysher"?grand united order of odd fellows, ceremonial apron

Clothing. Owners initials prominent on outside. Rectangular in shape, fine grained black leather. The leather forms an external shape, white inside a smaller watermark, black silk pouch has a silver frame and clasp to hold the required items. This is lined with a dark cream watermark silk, and has an outer section with side pocket, containing a mirror, and a smaller inner section divided into purse-like compartments. Each swection has a silver frame and clasp. A small piece of light card -red on one side, and possibly glued as a label on the otherside is the same shape as the handbag, and has printed in capital letters ''NOTE THE POINTS''. This may or may not relate to the bag. The outer leather section is slightly tapered-wider at the bottom, forming slight peaks. The top reflects these peaks, with a 3 cm wide band of leather, shaped wider at the top. 23 cm long at top, 21 cm long at lower edge. Silver metal, upper-case lettering:M-A-B, indicate the owners initials. .7 cm high, 7cm long. Two 1 cm wide, 28 cm long handles complete this stylish bag. Mirror has bevelled edges, and is backed with the same fabric, as the bag lining.costume accessories, female, black handbag with silver initials m-a-b

Object. Rectangular in shape, 15 cms x 10.5 cms mirror frame, with a 17 cms handle. The mirror has a bevelled edge, and is backed with a deep cream linen fabric embroidered in a fine silk floral-spray petit pomt embroidery. The frame is marked 24 ct. GPL (24ct gold plate). The handle adjoins the mirror with three graduated circles, and three more circles, graduated in diameter, form a small ''knob''at the lower edge.24ct Gold Platedomestic equipment, gold, 24ct gold plate hand mirror

The text on reverse translates Kikaha toilet department. There is also the printed image of a swallow on the back, which suggests that it was taken by the S. N. Banshiudo Studio in Shiba Park, Tokyo. Geisha Sakae was an extremely popular postcard model shortly after the Russo-Japanese war 1904-05, people used to line up early in the morning whenever a new postcard was released at the postcard shop in Ginza. The beauty of her gait was so widely admired that her walk inspired many of the leading Onnagata (male Kabuki actors in female roles) of the day. She went on to marry Ichikawa Sadanji II, one of the most popular Kabuki actors in Japan, who worked hard to promote new plays and revive long-forgotten classical dramas. [Ref: https://www.flickr.com/photos/blue_ruin_1/8448420741] During the Russo-Japanese War (1904–05), the Japanese government sent postcards of beautiful Japanese women, bijin ehagaki (美人絵葉書), to soldiers to motivate them. Publishers continued to print them well into the 1920s. [Ref: Duits, Kjeld (February 21, 2022). 1910s: Geisha Postcards, OLD PHOTOS of JAPAN. Retrieved on March 31, 2024 (GMT) from https://www.oldphotosjapan.com/photos/883/vintage-geisha-postcards-early-20th-century] See also: Sakae さかえ - Meiji / Taishō Era Geisha https://www.flickr.com/groups/1988804@N22/pool/ The photochrom process Photochroms are not photographs but actual prints, produced using 6 to 15 colors and the lithography printing process. The technique was invented by the Swiss Hans Jakob Schmid during the 1880s. The fascinating aspect of these prints is that they are created from black and white photographs. It required quite some work and talent to create these images. The photographer would usually make notes about the colors in the image he shot. These enabled a painter to create a painting that served as a color guide for the litho stone maker. This artisan would then create multiple exposures of the original black-and-white negative, changing the exposure time, development settings, and using dodge and burn techniques to create the required set of 6 to 15 stones that would each be used to print one specific color. By combining all these colors you get the prints [Ref: https://www.prepressure.com/printing/history/photochrome-prints]This item, a souvenir from Japan from between the wars (circa 1923) was brought home to Research, Victoria by Bill Teagle who was serving in the Royal Australian Navy (1919-1945). Bill Teagle's sister Violet Amelda Teagle had married Theodore (Curly) Feldbauer in 1933. Bill's brother-in-law Curly was taken as a Prisoner of War by the Japanese and died at Sandakan in March 1945. The family did not learn of Curly’s death till months later and Bill's sister, Violet, herself could never forgive the Japanese for what happened to Curly. Curly is remembered on the Eltham Roll of Honour Board and his son, Albert Feldbauer (Bill’s nephew and youngest child of the children of the soldier fathers attending a school in the district), was given the honour of turning the first sod for the Eltham War Memorial Infant Welfare Centre Building. Despite this, the family maintained this cherished souvenir from a time of previous foreign friendship with Japan. The item was possibly given by Bill Teagle to his sister Margaret Rose (formerly Ingram) who later married Richard Edward (Eddie) Fielding in early 1948. (Eddie had been engaged to someone else before he went to war, but his fiancée broke it off before his return to Australia.) It was cared for by the Teagle/Fielding family for approximately one hundred years. It is of particular significance given the family's connection to the Eltham War Memorial and the significance of that memorial to the local community and represents that despite the horrors of war, former friends then foes can become friends again.tom fielding collection, geisha sakae, japanese postcard, postcard

This Newspaper "How London celebrated Victory and Peace" was sent home by W.H. Field No 18440 AAMC who was still in London at the time. Off the 20 pages 6 are full page of the Victory Parade. Refer Cat No 7848 for W.H Fields service details.Newspaper, "The Daily Mirror", 20 pages No 4908, all print in black, contents range from full page photos of the "Victory March in London 19.7.1919", articles, cartoons, lots of Womens fashion adds, price was one penny.Hand written on front page in black pen, "Take care of all these papers"victory, newspaper, parade, malone collection

Provenance not clear. Leather case has 'MMBW' inscribed in black pen, indicating an association with Melbourne Metropolitan Board of Works. Item has been in the possession of Terry McCormack since 1972Hand held brass pocket inclonometer level, circa 1920. Leather case for safe storage. Semi circular graduated dial with 90 degree vernier scale with a small (20mm) magnifying glass to aid reading the vernier scale. Above the body, mounted at the rear of the graduated dial, is a spirit level tube which is tilted by finger movement to the milled hand wheel. The height to be determined is sighted through the instrument eyepiece and the bubble tube is tilted until the bubble, viewed in the mirror inside the sighting tube, is brought level with the graticule sighted at the top of the subject object. An angle is thus obtained and by measuring the distance on the ground to the object, trigonometry can be applied to determine the height of the object.Herga & Co. BRISBANE. Made in England

A brimless short rounded cap worn by men in Africa, Middle East and South Asia. Although associated with many Islamic cultures, in the United States it is also worn with people of West African heritage, whether Christian, Islamic or a traditional African religion.Brimless cap hand embroidered with pink, green, blue, orange and yellow coloured highlights. Crystal beads highlight the pattern. Silver coloured metal thread herringbone stitch and shisha mirror work.caps, embroidered

The Bermali Maki (also known simply as the Maki stitch) is a distinctive, geometric hand embroidery stitch widely used in the vibrant tribal art of the Lambani (Banjara) nomadic people in India. It is traditionally combined with appliqué, mirrors, and beadwork to create elaborate, textured patterns.Turquoise linen with white cotton embroidery including shisha mirrors, chain stitch, herringbone and bermali maki stitch. Very similar to E1160 - a shisha work cape from Pakistan.fragments, pakistan, shisha work

Handwritten note about accident damage to tram 34 - damage to step board, motorman's step, staunchion, broken mirror, woodwork and paint damage, and two small steps taken off. It is not possible to determine the date of the accident from item 9155. Would have to work through the tram depot diaries.Yields information about an accident to tram 34.Hand written note on the back of a SEC roster sheet.In red ink "AR/74 B22010/636"secv, ballarat, accidents, tram 34

This dress was created by Jean Inglis for a competition of garments hosted by the Geelong Handweavers and Spinners Guild at a ski weekend in 1979. It was entered in the ‘evening wear’ category of hand spun and knitted garments. The Warp was commercially brought 2/24 wool. The Weft was hand spun black Corriedale wool. This wool was brought at a sale in Geelong and was hand dyed and spun by Jean. The patter is a ‘Ripple’ variation of a ‘Crackle’ weave completed on Jean’s own Dobby Loom (pictured). Long black dress stretching from the feet, reaching up to a hood at the neckline and down to the hands in the sleeve. The dress is black with a glossy silver pattern in the form of a band around the hood, hands and feet of the garment. In these bands is a wavy pattern of silver and black lines. There are multiple thick and thin lines of both the silver and black colours mirroring each other as the pattern stretches around the garment. wool, weaving, hand spun, corriedale

Yields information about Geelong Depot and tramcar No. 5 and its repainting with zebra stripes in 1955Two Black and white digital print from scan of a donated negative showing Geelong No. 5 in the depot after it was repainted with strips. Also fitted with mirrors. Shows the coupling arrangements. Photo by John Webster, 1955. See page 44 of Destination Eaglehawk for details. Black and White prints made from scan of negative. Original Negative stored with Negatives. Negative scanned at hi res 2/6/2020 and image updated.On left hand side of the negatives in ink is "EI 9" and "EI 10"tramways, trams, geelong, tramcars, tram 5

Black and White print contained within the Wal Jack Bendigo and Geelong Album, see Reg Item 5003 for more details. Photo of Geelong No. 1 turning out of Ryrie St into Garden St 3rd January 1945, with destination of East. Tram has a green background pay-as-you-enter sign, windscreen wipers and mirrors are yet to be fitted. Photo by Wal Jack. See also Reg Item 4395 for another copy of this photograph used by W. F. Scott. Printed on Ilford Paper. i1 - scan of print in the album i2 - rear of image i3 - scan of negative at 3200dpi added 27/6/2020. Yields information about Geelong tram No. 1Black and white print and associated negative.On the rear in blue ink "SEC Geelong No. 1 to East, turning out of Ryrie St into Garden St 3rd January 1945" with Wal Jack copyright stamp in the top right hand corner and the number "T318" written in.trams, tramways, geelong, ryrie st, tram 1

) fox: hand crocheted cotton, lamb�s wool synthetic yarns and reflective tape over high density foam, papier mache, wire, mirrored acrylic, cotton fabric and synthetic fabrics, synthetic polymer emulsion and glass beads; 2 5) various fibres; 6) base: enamel gloss paint on fibreglass

B/W copy from Grampians Community Health Centre Book Rev Fotheringham is wearing striped shirt and trousers with a belt. Holding a frame over a tub. Background is brickwork, mirror on top of cupboard, painting on right hand wall and clothes line. In foreground two pillow slips hanging onclothes line. Tea chests with items on top.

Shears belong to donor's father Maurice Dalton who was foreman of the show floor of the Dennys Lascekkes building until his retirement after 34 years at the building. Maurice used the shears in his work as a wool classer in rural Victoria and New South Wales. The shears are 14" N.1 Combination UTS hand shears made in Sheffield, England.A pair of metal blade shears. The blade is engraved with 'MADE IN ENGLAND / COMBINATION / U.T.S. / SHEFFIELD / N.1'. The ends of the two symmetrical grips loop around on themselves where they are riveted together to form a spring action.Mirrored. Lettering: MADE IN ENGLAND / COMBINATION / UTS / SHEFFIELD / N. 1

Made and used by POW in camp 13Tin box with detached lid used to store bathroom requisites. Hand made in camp. Corners soldered. Mirror in box (see C0226)camp 13, murchison, tin box, hygiene, pow

Set of three photographs of Geelong single trams, one of the same type of tram (No. 7) prior to fitting with marker lights and No. 4 after fitting with marker lights, one during daylight and one at night. Three photographs taken by W.C. Meyer, Photographer, 333 Myers St. East Geelong, Phone 3289. Photo of one end of the tram only. Note top marker lights, not repeated on any other cars shown in photographs in Destination Eaglehawk. Shows as well, arrangements for tow bars, mirror and handrails. 1872.1 - Before fitting with additional lights, at night with 'flash' - showing destination 'West' - tram No. 7 1872.2 - after fitting with lights and stripes, during daylight - showing destination 'CITY' - tram No. 4 1872.3 - ditto at night, showing destination of 'CITY'. - tram No. 4 1872i4 - close up of the mirror and light on the roof - right hand side of i2. Note all lights illuminated in the night photo. Destination Eaglehawk, page 44, notes tram 4 as being fitted with dash canopy lighting and zebra stripes in 1955. No mention of No. 7 being so fitted. For date of photograph, assumed early 1955 at this time (14/11/2001) See Destination EaglehawkAll stamped with black ink stamp " W.C. Meyer, Photographer, 333 Myers St. East Geelong, Phone 3289" and on rear of photos in dark blue ink, handwriting, 1872.1 - Night - with 'flash' photo. 1872.2 - Daylight 1872.3 - Night - with 'flash' photo. This tram has supplementary lights trams, tramways, geelong, dash canopy lights, lights, mirrors, tram 7, tram 4

“The artwork speaks to the historical architecture of this area, while exploring the idea of changing understanding of space. Space is bent, bulged and repeated, in this painting, like a mirror maze. In this way, it will inspire playfulness, curiosity and thought, by transforming the way we observe, move through and engage with public space”Artist George Goodnow has installed their artwork on the Annex Wall in Alfred Deakin Place from 30th November 2021 - 1 November 2022. George is a multidisciplinary artist and curator currently living in Naarm (Melbourne). Their work for the Annexe Wall will feature a fictional architectural arrangement of the Police Lane site. George utilises painting (designed through hand-drawn and digital processes) to adjust existing architecture, illuminating how spaces reflect, orientate and hold bodies. Recent work explores feelings of disorientation, binaries and queerness within suburban and urban landscapes. painted wall

This photograph is taken in the bedroom of the man's home in the suburbs of Melbourne. It depicts one of the types of nursing care given by Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS) Sisters in the community. The Sister is visiting the man's home and is administering an injection which has been ordered by a doctor. Glass syringes were used by the Society until the mid 1960s and were re sterilized for future use. After this time plastic disposable syringes were used.The Trained nurses of the Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS), later known as Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), visited patients in their home and gave best practice care in many fields of nursing and to people of many cultures throughout its 130 years of expansion. Initial visits not only assessed the specific nursing situation but the situation as a whole. Their patients ranged in age from babes, children, adults to the elderly and referrals were taken from Hospitals, General Practitioners and allied Health facilities. Some of the care provided was: – Post-Natal care given to mother and babe, Wound Care following various types of surgery, accidents, burns, cancer, leg ulcers etc. Supervising and teaching Diabetic Care, including teaching and supervising people with Diabetes to administer their own Insulin, and administering Insulin to those unable to give their own injections. Administering other injections and setting up weekly medication boxes. The Sisters performed Catheterizations on adults suffering from conditions such as Quadriplegia, Paraplegia, Multiple Sclerosis (MS), Motor Neurone Disease (MND) and Guillan-Barre Syndrome, and when required at school on children for e.g. those with Spina Bifida. The Sisters visited those requiring Cystic Fibrosis support and care; those requiring Haemo-Oncology care, including visiting children at school; those requiring Home Enteral Feeding care, and those requiring IV therapy at home and home Dialysis. Palliative Care was given including pain relief with the use of syringe drivers, personal care as needed, and advice and support to both patient and family. RDNS provided Stoma management to those needing Urostomy, Ileostomy and Colostomy care and those requiring Continence care. HIV/AIDS nursing care was provided; visits to Homeless Persons were made. Personal care was given to patients ranging in age and with varying mobility problems, such as those with MS, MND, Guillan-Barre Syndrome, Quadriplegia, Paraplegia, Acquired Brain Injury, following a Cerebrovascular Accident (Stroke), those with severe Arthritis and those with a form of Dementia. When necessary the elderly were assisted with personal care and advice given on safety factors with the use of hand rails, bath or shower seats, and hand showers. Rehabilitation with an aim towards independence remained at the forefront of the Sister’s minds and when possible using aids and instruction on safe techniques enabled the person to become fully independent. All care included giving advice and support to the patient and their Carers. The Sisters liaised with the persons Doctor, Hospital and allied Health personal when necessary.On the left of this black and white photograph, is a Melbourne District Nursing Society Sister who is standing side-on and leaning slightly forward as she administers an injection into the right upper arm of a gentleman to her right who is sitting up in bed resting against two white covered pillows. The male patient has short dark hair; is wearing glasses, and is looking up at the Sister. He is wearing a thick grey cardigan over a pale colour pyjama top which has dark piping; the lower part of his body is covered by a dark and light coloured check bed cover. The bed has a solid wooden headrest with a bed lamp attached to its upper right. The Sister who is wearing her uniform grey brimmed hat over her dark short hair, is wearing a white gown over her grey uniform, the collar of which is seen. Three fingers of her left hand are holding back the pushed up sleeve of the man's cardigan and she is holding a white swab between her thumb and first finger. She has a glass syringe resting in her right hand with her thumb and forefinger resting against the lower glass and metal section of the syringe; part of the metal needle is seen, the rest is inserted in the mans upper arm. On the far left of the photograph part of a dressing table mirror can be seen.' Rough Proof' Latrobe Studios Ref No. 59134-8melbourne district nursing service, mdns, royal district nursing service, rdns, rdns - injection

Yhonnie SCARCE (1973- ) Born Woomera, South Australia Language group: Kokatha, Southern desert region and Nukunu, Spencer region Yhonnie Scarce works predominantly in glass. She majored in glass withing a Bachelor of Visual Arts (Honours) course at the South Australian School of Art, Adelaide, and holds a Master of Fine Arts from Monash University. One of the first contemporary Australian artists to explore the political and aesthetic power of glass, Scarce describes her work as ‘politically motivated and emotionally driven’. Scarce’s work often references the on-going effects of colonisation on Aboriginal people, In particular her research focus has explored the impact of the removal and relocation of Aboriginal people from their homelands and the forcible removal of Aboriginal children from their families. (https://thisisnofantasy.com/artist/yhonnie-scarce/, accessed 10 September 2018)Artist's Statement 'The More Bones the Better', 2016 Yhonnie Scarce was born in Woomera, SA and belongs to the Kokatha and Nukunu peoples. Scarce embraces a non traditional approach to glass blowing using glass as more than a mere material, acting as a lens and a mirror, Scarce reflects and exposes the tragedies of Australia’s colonisation. She applies the technical rigours of traditional glass blowing techniques in an innovative and unconventional manner. In particular Scarce uses glass to explore the lives and histories of Aboriginal Australians. Hand blown glass is shaped, engraved, painted and smashed to create indigenous fruits and vegetables such as bush bananas, bush plums and long yams symbolic of her peoples culture and traditions. With their elongated, torso-like shapes, they even evoke human bodies. Akin to a gatherer of bush food Scarce creates glass-gatherings of the persecuted. The repetition of brittle ambiguous bodies collected for experimentation and examination conjures the relentless impact of colonisation and the litany of abuses suffered by Aboriginal people. Within her research Scarce encountered a variety of ethnographic studies examining the use of scientific interventions amongst Indigenous cultures. These include Government sanctioned illegal drug testing of children in orphanages and other dubious medical practices amongst indigenous prison inmates. This work metaphorically looks at these situations and poses questions of what might have gone on in such a laboratory. The judge of the 2017 Guirguis New Art Prize (GNAP), Simon Maidment, Senior Curator, Contemporary Art, National Gallery of Victoria said; “The winning work by Yhonnie Scarce captures the sensitivity to materials she displays throughout her artistic practice. The blown and shattered glass elements are a delicate contrast to the shocking and little discussed histories of Aboriginal exploitation and abuse in the name of science in Australia. Engaging this topic, this work is haunting, in the same way those lived and documented experiences continue to haunt the collective unconscious of this country. Yhonnie Scarce’s work, The More Bones the Better 2016, I believe makes an important contribution to the Collection of Federation University Australia and will engage and move diverse audiences with its technical accomplishment, beauty and message. Yhonnie Scarce was born in Woomera SA and belongs to the Kokatha and Nukunu peoples. Scarce embraces a non-traditional approach to glass blowing using her medium as more than a mere material. Applying the technical rigours of traditional glass blowing in an innovative and unconventional manner, Scarce’s glass objects act as a lens and a mirror to reflect and expose the tragedies of Australia’s colonisation and, in particular, explore the lives and histories of Aboriginal Australians. Hand-blown glass is shaped, engraved, painted and smashed to represent indigenous fruits and vegetables such as bush bananas, bush plums and long yams, symbolic of Scarce’s people’s culture and traditions. While these elongated shapes on the one hand represent fruit and vegetables, gathered and grouped as in the gathering of bush food, Scarce’s torso-like bodies and forms are glass ‘gatherings’ representative of the gathering of people. Here, the many brittle bodies act as a metaphor for the collection, experimentation and examinations undertaken by government authorities on Aboriginal communities researched by Scarce. Exposing a variety of ethnographic studies, examining the use of scientific interventions on Indigenous cultures, Scarce also revealed Government sanctioned illegal drug testing of children in orphanages and other dubious medical practices undertaken on indigenous prison inmates. Scarce’s gatherings also reflect the impact of colonisation and the relentless conjuring and litany of abuses suffered by Aboriginal people. The More Bones the Better metaphorically looks at these situations and poses questions of what was undertaken and investigated in these laboratories. guirguis new art prize, yhonnie scarce, glass, aboriginal