A spokeshave was made with a wooden body and metal cutting blade. With industrialization metal bodies displaced wood in mass-produced tools. Spokeshaves can be made from flat-bottom, concave, or convex soles, depending on the type of job to be performed. They can include one or more sharpened notches along which the wooden shaft is pulled in order to shave it down to the proper diameter. Historically, spokeshave blades were made of metal, and the body and handles were wood. Unlike a drawknife, but like a plane, spokeshaves typically have a sole plate that fixes the angle of the blade relative to the surface being worked. By the twentieth-century metal handles and detachable blades had become the most common. A convex, wooden, variant of the spokeshave is called a travisher; at one time mostly used in chairmaking.A tool of the cooper and other woodworking tradesmen that has been in use since the making of barrels and wooden buckets for hundreds of years without much change to the design or how the tool is used.Spokeshave, with two wooden handles on either side. Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, coopers tools, spokeshave, barrel making, wood plane, wagon making, joiners tools, carpenter tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Peg Tool for shoe-making. Metal tool with leather handle, pointed one end and round disc on other end.bootmaking tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.A metal hole punch, and metal button eyelet pliers, both used for shoe-making.AMG Darholeybootmaking tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Handmade leather legging with 4 metal clips.boot covers, leggings

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.2 x wooden Lasts (Adult size) with metal screws. 1 x cast iron Last (Child size) with holes in base and a removable elevated top.Wooden: Size 6 (80) Cast Iron: Size 9 Dbootmaking tools, boot lasts

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast Iron Last on a four-footed base/stand. Last is removable from stand, and can be moved into different positions on top of the stand.bootmaking tools, boot lasts

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron double-ended Lap Last.bootmaking tools, boot lasts

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Wooden bookmaker's repair stand, opens slightly at one end. Two pieces of wood connected by two screws.bootmaking tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast Iron pieces - 1 Heel cutter and 1 Sole cutter.bootmaking tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Brown leather handmade nail bag, with strap.tool bags

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron handmade knife with a wooden handle, attached by a nail.bootmaking tools, cutting tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Welt Cutter with a wooden handle.

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Seat Breaker with a wooden handle.

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Fudge Wheel with a wooden handle.

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Wooden, folding, foot measure/ruler with brass clasps.bootmaking tools, measures, rulers

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron hammer with a wooden handle. Larger Cutter/knife, cast iron with a wooden handle. Smaller Cutter/knife, cast-iron with a wooden handleHammer: "London" Larger knife: "Pettys Sheffield".bootmaking tools, hammers, cutting tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Heel plate. Miscellaneous Sole plates. Hobnails and a tin of wooden sprigs.bootmaking tools, nails

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Handmade Waxed Thread attached to pig bristles, for boot stitching .bootmaking tools, thread waxers, threads

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.5 x Cast iron Awls, all with wooden handles. 1 x container of spare Awl metal tips.bootmaking tools, awls, piercing tools

Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.2 pairs of handmade, adult brown leather boots, with decorative stitching, eyelets and stitched with waxed thread. Soles covered with hob nails in a decorative pattern. 1 handmade child's brown leather boot, with decorative stitching, metal eyelets, heel has patterned nails.bootlaces, boots

After the Eureka Stockade the government offered a reward for the leaders of the rebellion. Peter Lalor's name is incorrectly spelt 'Lawlor' in the poster, which suggests the correct pronunciation of Lalor.A Eureka Stockade reward poster as reproduced in Withers 'History of Ballarat'. The poster is black on white and relates to a 400 pound reward offered for Peter Lalor and Black after the Eureka Stockade. Peter Lalor is described as 5 feet 11 inches in height, age 35, dark hair, whiskers dark brown and shaved under the chin, no moustache, long face, rather good looking, and is a well made man. Black is described as over 6 feet tall, straight figure, slight build, bright red hair worn in a general rather long and brushed backwards, red and large whiskers, meeting under the chine, blue eyes, large thin nose, ruddy complexion, and rather small mouth.ballarat, eureka stockade, peter lalor, lalor, lawlor, black, william haines, haines, ballarat reform league, reward poster

Elaine Mann was married to David Mann, a successful Wodonga businessman and community leader who passed away in Wodonga in June 2012. David was a member of the Mann family who began their business in Wodonga in 1920. Elaine was a teacher in Wodonga for many years and an active member of the community.This photo collection is of significance as it documents how the businesses and buildings in Wodonga have evolved and contributed to community throughout the late 20th centuryBusinesses from Left to right J. McSwiney & Co Chemist, Dempster’s Café and Pilkington’s Shoes. This building is still standing and now includes business High Exposure, Junction Pizza, Greg’s Takeaway and Barbers Quarter Haircuts and Shaves. Born in Chiltern in 1875, John T McSwiney moved into his premises in High Street, Wodonga in 1901. He operated his pharmacy from this site for over 64 years. At its peak, John put the Wodonga store under the care of a manager and moved to set up a second pharmacy in Wangaratta. He later returned to his Wodonga pharmacy where although semi-retired John continued to go to work each day up to his 90th birthday. His chemist shop was sold about 1967.wodonga businesses, high st wodonga, pilkingtons, mcswiney chemist

Set of 10, 35mm Tecnodia white plastic mount slides by Colin Rough of trams in Collins St 30/4/2003. All in Yarra Trams livery unless noted otherwise. .1 - C 3004, route 109 Port Melbourne near Spencer St. .2 - C 3027, eastbound about to cross Spencer St to St Vincent's Hospital .3 - ditto .4 - C 3022 as for .1 .5 - C 3005, followed by an A class .6 - C 3035 at Swanston St intersection .7 - A 240 at Swanston St on route 112 in all over advertising for "Shave for a Cure" .8 - A 265 at Spencer St, route 109 .9 - C 3003 at Spencer St, route 109 .10 - C 3027 on Collins St extension bridge.On front written on a label "Yarra Trams, Collins St, Melbourne 30/4/2003" and the tram number.trams, tramways, a class, route 109, collins st, tram 3004, tram 3027, tram 3022, tram 3005, tram 3035, tram 240, tram 265, tram 3003, yarra trams, route 112, c class

A razor strop (or razor strap) is a flexible strip of leather or canvas used to straighten and polish the blade of a straight razor, a knife, or a woodworking tool like a chisel. Unlike honing or sharpening a blade, in which a whetstone removes metal bent out of alignment from the blade's edge, stropping the blade re-aligns the indentations without removing any material. The strop may be a hanging strop or a hand-held paddle. Various abrasive compounds may be applied to the strop to aid in polishing the blade while stropping to obtain a mirror-like finish. The properties of the compound applied will alter the polishing result. Jeweller's rouge is a very fine abrasive compound. The green Chromium(III) oxide compound is most often used as an abrasive compound. Sprays containing diamond particles are another option. Stropping is primarily done with straight razors, used for shaving, as these are the thinnest blades in everyday use, and require stropping at each use, due to the thinness of the blade Two points are key to stropping: Draw the blade spine-first along the strop. By contrast, honing is done edge-first. When you turn the blade at the end of a stroke, turn it over the spine, so the edge moves away from the strop and faces you, and the spine rests on the strop. This preserves the edge – if the blade is turned over with the edge against the strop, this will roll the blade edge, defeating the purpose of stropping As the use of safety razors increased in popularity this 'Jason' strop prolonged the life of each razor blade thus making them economical.A leather 'Jason' strop, for sharpening safety shaving razor blades, with box. Top of Box: J / The JASON / STROP/ Reg. Trade Mark / for SAFETY RAZOR BLADES / Reg. Patent No. 25435/35 ; Back : How to operate the JASON STROP ( instructions) Side: JASON / Razor Strop Dressing / A keen smooth blade will always be assured by the / occasional use of JASON RAZOR STROP DRESSING/ Side: FIFTY SHAVES WITH ONE BLADE ! / by using - JASON and JASON / Razor Blade Strop Razor Blade Dressing. End: JASON / Made by MEIK BROS. Pty. Ltd. / 15-17 Bedford St., Collingwood, and / 287 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Vic. End: JASON / SAFETY RAZOR BLADE STROP.safety razors, the jason strop, shaving equipment, personal effects, strops, meik bros pty ltd, gillette, collingwood melbourne

A shaving scuttle and shaving mug were developed around the 19th century with the first patent for a shaving mug dating to 1867.[8] As hot water was not common in many households, one way to provide hot lather was to use a scuttle or mug. A traditional scuttle resembles a teapot with a wide spout where hot water is poured in, and this is where it differs from a shaving mug, which has no spout. Both shaving scuttles and mugs usually have a handle, but some have none. Shaving mugs often look like a standard mug, however, some also have a built in brush rest, so the brush does not sit in lather. Modern versions of the scuttle are in limited production, usually by independent potters working in small volumes.[9] At the top of the scuttle or mug is a soap holder. Traditionally, it was used with a hard block of shaving soap (rather than soft soap or cream) and therefore had drain holes at the bottom. Later scuttles and mugs do not include the holes, and thus can be used with creams and soft soaps. Some scuttles and mugs have concentric circles on the bottom, which retain some water thus helping to build lather.[9] In use, the shaving brush is dunked into the wide spout, allowing it to soak into the water and heat up. The soap is placed in the soap holder. When needed, one can take the brush and brush it against the soap, bringing up a layer of lather; excess water is drained back. This allows conservation of water and soap, whilst retaining enough heat to ensure a long shave. Source: www.wikipedia.org Local social historyOrnate white china mug with handle. Cup side to hold brush and saucer shaped top with 3 drainage holes. Gold painted decoration and flower garland of pink and yellow roses. Mother of pearl effect over sides.Made in Germanyshaving, item, china, mug, bathroom, men, personal, toiletry

Sharped Edged instrument used for cleaning hair from the skin. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straight_razor A straight razor is a razor with a blade that can fold into its handle.[1] They are also called open razors and cut-throat razors. HISTORY The first modern straight razor complete with decorated handles and hollow ground blades was constructed in Sheffield, England, by Benjamin Huntsman in 1740. Huntsman's process was adopted by the French sometime later. The English manufacturers were even more reluctant than the French to adopt the process and only did so after they saw its success in France.[5] Straight razors were the most common form of shaving before the 20th century and remained that common in many countries until the 1950s. TODAY Straight razors are still manufactured. DOVO, of Solingen, Germany, and Thiers Issard of France are two of the most well-known European manufacturers. Feather Safety Razor Co. Ltd. of Osaka, Japan makes a razor with the same form as a traditional straight, but featuring a disposable blade that can be installed through an injector-type system. Modern straight razor users are known to favor them for a variety of reasons. Some are attracted to the nostalgia of using old and traditional methods of shaving. It is a masculine ritual comparable to pipe smoking. Others profess an interest in reducing the waste of disposable blades.[11][22] Still others agree that straight razors provide a superior shave through a larger blade and greater control of the blade including the blade angle. Straight razors cover a much greater area per shaving stroke because their cutting edge is much longer than any of the multiblade razors. Ivory cut throat razor, with cream case 00121.3.Known as a straight razor.Razor with square point, full hollow ground 5/8” blade and double transverse stabiliser. The centre pin adds stability and rigidity to the handle---I think this is it ROM Parts The narrow end of the blade pivots on a pin, between 2 pieces of ivory forms the handle. LONG EXTRACT FROM WIKI _ SHORTEN to describe 00121 The parts of a straight razor and their function are described as follows: The narrow end of the blade rotates on a pin called the pivot, between two protective pieces called the scales or handle. The upward curved metal end of the narrow part of the blade beyond the pivot is called the tang and acts as a lever to help raise the blade from the handle. One or two fingers resting on the tang also help stabilize the blade while shaving. The narrow support piece between the tang and the main blade is called the shank, but this reference is often avoided because it can be confusing. The shank sometimes features decorations and the stamp of the country of origin. The top side and the underside of the shank can sometimes exhibit indentations known as fluting, or jimps for a more secure grip.[8] The curved lower part of the main blade from the shank to the cutting edge is called the shoulder.[9] The point where the shoulder joins the cutting edge is called the heel. A thick strip of metal running transversely at the junction where the main blade attaches to the shank is called the stabiliser. The stabiliser can be double,[10] single or can be absent in some razor models. The first stabiliser is usually very narrow and thicker and runs at the shank to blade junction, covering the shank and just spilling over to the shoulder. The second stabiliser can be distinguished since it is considerably wider and narrower, appearing after the first stabiliser and running lower into the shoulder. The non-cutting top of the blade is called the back or the spine while the cutting part of the blade opposite the back is called the cutting edge.[11] Finally the other free end of the blade, at the opposite end of the tang, is called the point and, sometimes, the head or the nose.[9][12] There are two to three pins in any handle. The middle pin, if present, is plastic coated and is called the plug.[13] Its function is to stabilise the sides of the handle so that they cannot be squeezed in the middle. When folded into the scales, the blade is protected from accidental damage, and the user is protected from accidental injury. During folding, the back of the blade, being thick and normally with a curved cross-section, acts as a natural stopper and prevents further rotation of the blade out of the handle from the other side shaving, lever, handle, blade, pivot, razor, tang

This razor strop is made like a leather strap. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Double Swing Razor Strop. Use for honing razors.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, strop, swing razor strop, barber's equipment, shaving equipment, personal accessory

This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden paddle strop, (or raxor strop or cushion strop). Strop has two leather sides, numbered 1 and 2, on a slotted paddle. Marked on handle “Hamon”. Sides are numbered 1 and 2. Has two slits in body of strop. "Hamon" stamped on handle. "Hamon" stamped on handle. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wooden strop, paddle strop, strop, razor strop, shaving accessory, barber's equipment, personal grooming

This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden strop, paddle strop design (sometimes called razor strop). Has leather attached to one side. Has two slits in body of strop. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, strop, paddle strop, personal effects, shaving equipment, razor strop, barber's equipment