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Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Trophy :Rose bowl, 1930s
This trophy was awarded in 1933 as a championship cup by the South Western District Rifle Clubs Union. Rifle Clubs have been operating in Warrnambool since 1860 and in 1904 the South Western District Rifle Clubs Union was formed. The donor of the trophy, James Fairbairn (1897-1940) was a pastoralist, aviator and politician. He served with the Royal Flying Corps in World War One and was injured and captured by the Germans. When he returned to Australia he acquired Mount Elephant Station near Derrinallum, Victoria and continued his interest in flying, becoming an expert on aviation. In politics he was firstly the member for Warrnambool in the Victorian Legislative Assembly and then held the Federal House of Representatives seat of Flinders. He was the Minister for Civil Aviation and in 1939 became the Minister for Air. He was killed in an aircraft accident in Canberra in 1940.This trophy is of considerable interest because it is a 20th century memento of the rifle clubs in the Warrnambool district and because of its association with James Fairbairn, a notable Western District personality in the first half of the 20th century. This is a silver-coloured metal bowl soldered on to a supporting stem on a circular base. There are two handles on each side of the bowl. The top of the bowl is covered with wire mesh with the original idea that the bowl could hold flowers (hence the name ‘rose bowl’). The bowl is inscribed on one side. The item is very tarnished.‘Paramount Plate Regd. EPNS Quality Plate Warranted Hand Soldered’ ‘Championship Cup No 12. South Western District Rifle Clubs Union’ ‘Presented by J. V. Fairbairn, Esq. M.L.A. 1933’ warrnambool rifle club, south western district rifle clubs union -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Badge - Gripman Badge, Stokes & Sons, Jul 1916 - Nov. 1919
This cable tram Gripman’s badge, or driver’s badge, was part of a tram driver’s uniform. The inscriptions on the front of the badge identify it as belonging to Gripman number 14, at the South Melbourne Car House depot of the Tramways Board. The Gripman Badge would be re-issued whenever another Gripman takes over the position. Cable trams were invented in America in 1873. In Melbourne, cable trams were in use from 1885 until 1940, with a network of up to 1200 cable cars or 'dummies' and trailers travelling at around 9.5 miles (15km) per hour along 46 miles (74km) of double tracks. The Gripman drove the dummy car, operating the heavy levers to connect the gripping gears to the cable installed in a slot in the road. To turn at intersections he would skilfully disconnect, freewheel around the corner and carefully reconnect to the continuously operating steel cable. Large winding gears in an Engine House along the line pulled the cable along, powered by steam engines and later electric engines. The gripping gears were in the centre of the car's floor with seating all around the sides, a dangerous place for curious children. , whose worried parents would guide them into the tram that was towed behind the dummy car. The Melbourne Tramways Board operated the cable trams between July 1916 and November 1919 after taking over from the privately operated Melbourne Tramway and Omnibus Company. In 1919, the Melbourne and Metropolitan Tramways Board (MMTB) took over the Tramways Board. Stokes & Sons: - The maker of the badge, Thomas Stokes, migrated to Melbourne from Birmingham in 1854 and set up business in Mincer Lane as a die-sinker, producing medals, tokens, buttons and silverware, and an engraving service. He moved to Flinders Lane in 1856. After a time, in 1894, the business became Stokes & Sons Pty: Ltd, electroplates and badge makers at Post Office Place in Melbourne. The maker's mark 'Stokes & Sons' was made on badges until 1962. LOCAL CONNECTION: -t was common practice to recycle the used cables from the tramway. For example, the Wollaston Bridge in Warrnambool, Victoria, is suspended by recycled cable tram Melbourne. (Other recycled cables were used for fencing wire.) -Portland's cable tram is an example of the cable trams used in Melbourne from 1885 to 1940.This badge was used to identify a Gripman who operated a cable car tram's dummy car for the Tramways Board in Melbourne between 1916 and 1919. It represents the need for people to be able to identify workers in the service industry, a need still addressed today by staff ID badges and digital identification. The badge also represents the period in Melbourne's history when cable cars were used for public transport for over four decades, gradually changing from steam to electric power. Trams still have an important role in Melbourne's public transport. Badge, round hollow metal dome with two open metal guides on the back. A cable tram Gripman (driver) badge with embossed inscriptions on the front and stamped on the back. There is a logo of entwined letters T and B on the front. It identifies Gripman number 14, South Melbourne, Tramway Board. It was made by Stokes & Sons of Melbourne. Impressed into the front: "S / 14 / M" "GRIPMAN" Logo intertwined "T" and "B" Embossed on reverse "STOKES &o SONS"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, badge, gripman, stokes & sons, numesmatics, tramway, tram, tram driver, uniform, cable tram, identification, cable car driver, tramway board, south melbourne, melbourne tramways board, tb, mtb, mmtb, melbourne and metropolitan tramways board, tramway button, gripman button, id, identification badg, staff badge, name badge, employee, grip car, dummy car -
National Wool Museum
Extract, The human element in industry
"Extract from the Border Standard of June 10th 1933, Textile Institute Conference, Important Lecture by former Gelashiels College Principal, Dr T Oliver, on the human element in industry ""Extract from the Border Standard of June 10th 1933, Textile Institute Conference, Important Lecture by former Gelashiels College Principal, Dr T Oliver, on the human element in industry"textile industry, oliver, dr t -
National Wool Museum
Trophy
Sporting trophy. Inscription on cup reads: "G.I.C.A. G T LYNCH Discipline Cup, won by Valley Mill 1941-42". Used at Foster Valley Mill.G.I.C.A., G T LYNCH Discipline Cup, won by Valley Mill 1941-42sporting teams textile mills - sporting teams, valley worsted mill foster valley mill pty ltd, sport, sporting teams, textile mills - sporting teams -
City of Ballarat
Public Artwork, Sir Edgar Bertram MacKennal, Queen Victoria Memorial Statue by Bertam MacKennal, 1902
The Queen Victoria Monument by Australian Sculptor Sir Bertam MacKennal has a granite plinth with 4 bronze picture plates and granite bowl. The work was once a drinking fountain with decorative bronze spouts and taps set into the columned granite base. Queen Victoria died 22 January 1901, this work was commissioned and gifted to the City of Ballarat by the Woman’s Christian Temperance Union. This work marked the end of her long reign on the English throne and as Empress of the British Empire including Australia. This magnificent statue commemorates the reign of Queen Victoria (1837 - 1901), and is located in Sturt Street, Ballarat, just outside the Town Hall. Listed on the Victorian Heritage Database (B7272), the Queen Victoria Monument is significant to the people of Victoria. The Queen Victoria Monument, Ballarat, is a key component of Sturt Street in Ballarat, a notable streetscape of the late Victorian era. It represents a pivotal element in the extensive series of public art forms erected during the late nineteenth century in the heyday of Ballarat and added to during the twentieth century. The Queen Victoria Monument is an over life size statue mounted on a freestone pedestal containing four bronze relief interpretive plaques. It is situated in front of the Ballarat Town Hall, a prominent position on the wide notable picturesque boulevard of Sturt Street. The presence of the monument in the notable Sturt Street gardens precinct together with other significant statues is of importance. The Queen Victoria Monument at Ballarat is historically significant as a fine example of a tribute to the reigning monarch, initiated by citizens, on the occasion of her Diamond Jubilee, prior to her death. It reflects the fervour of the citizens of the town that played an important role in the development of the State of Victoria during the latter half of the nineteenth century. The Monument is important for its aesthetic characteristics in that it displays a combination of excellent examples of the artistry and technical skills of the sculptor E.B. MacKennal. These elements are evident in design, carving, and in casting of relief modelling.Sicilian marble statue of Queen Victoria with hand outstretched holding the Sovereign's Orb with small gold angel figure. Includes granite plinth with 4 bronze elements and granite bowl. Victoria Dei Gratia Britt Regina Fid. Def. Ind. Imp. 1900. Incorporates four fine bronze scenes from her life; Accession to the Throne (1837), Coronation (1838), Diamond Jubilee (1897) and Signing of the Constitution of the Australian Commonwealth (1900).queen victoria -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Cooking Bowl, Quick Cooker, Early 20th century
This item is an early type of cooker and would have been used to cook meat and puddings in the first two or three decades of the 20th century. It has no known local provenance but may have been a display item from the old Warrnambool Museum which was established in 1883 and was dismantled in the 1960s. This item, although incomplete, is of interest as a cooking bowl from the past and is retained for display purposes. This is a circular-shaped white china bowl. The base has a hollow tube protruding up through the centre of the bowl. There is printing on the outside of the bowl and on the top inside section. The lid of the bowl is missing. The ‘Quick Cooker’ Patent No 12161/11 Gold Medal London 1911 Excellent for stews of all kind Meat can be kept hot for hours without over-cooking or getting dry Grimwade’s Patent Nos 12835/09, 15043/09 Do not fill above this line – The pudding then has room to expand Water in saucepan should also be about this level ----- vintage culinary items, history of warrnambool, quick cooker -
Dandenong/Cranbourne RSL Sub Branch
Tobruk Siege Medal, 1941
The Tobruk Seige medal - known as the "T'' Medal was issued to Australian, British, Indian, New Zealand and Polish troops who saw action at Tobruk between April and December 1941. T shaped Silver Medal with Tobruk Seige 1941. The ribbon is khaki with light blue and maroon stripes. The medal is issued by the Rats of Tobruk Association. That makes it un-official. It is however recognised. M. Davis (recipient) on rear side of medal. -
Ballarat Tramway Museum
Photograph - Black & White Photograph/s - set of 3', Keith Kings, 26/03/1956 12:00:00 AM
Black and White print contained within the Wal Jack Bendigo and Geelong Album, see Reg Item 5003 for more details. Set of three black and white photographs from Keith Kings of the staged closures of the Geelong tramways. .1 - Geelong No. 4 - decorated as the Last tram, has a dash sign "Geelong Tramways No. 4 first car 1912, Last car 1956 Farewell", with the destination of Belmont. Photographed with power station in the background in Corio Terrace. 26/3/1956, KSK Photo (T)(e)(8). Printed on Ilford Paper. See also Reg Item 2667 and 4388 for a colour slide version of the same photograph. .2 - ditto - about to leave the depot - KSK Photo - T(g)(3) .3 - ditto - back at the depot - KSK Photo - T(g)(8)On the rear in ink and with the Keith Kings Copyright stamp: .1 - "Geelong - 4 - decorated as Official "Last" tram -26/3/56" - (T)(e)(8). .2 - "Geelong - 4 - illuminated as last tram Sun 26/3/56" - (T)(g)(3). .3 - "Geelong - 4 - last tram, back at Depot, Sun 26/3/56" - (T)(g)(8). trams, tramways, geelong, closure, depot, last tram, tram 4 -
National Wool Museum
Photograph
Group portrait of E H Lascelles, W Helpman, A C Macdonald, Tiger, T W Notte [?] , David Strachan, c1900E H Lascelles W Helpman A C Macdonald Tiger T W Notte [?] David Strachanwool brokering, dennys, lascelles limited, lascelles, mr edward harewood strachan, mr david - strachan and co. limited helpman, mr w macdonald, mr a c - dennys -
Tatura Irrigation & Wartime Camps Museum
Photograph, Mr TE Williams with bicycle
Mr T E Willilams in jumper and white shorts standing behind his racing bicycleSepia photo of Mr TE Williams with his bicycle. In black plastic frame with glass and L1066Presented to Mr T E Williams. Fastest time 10 Mile Road Race, Kyabram. 31st Sept 1927bicycle, tatura, williams -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Document (item) - Programme, City of Kew, Mayoral Dinner, 1938
The Municipality of Kew (1860-1863), the Borough of Kew (1863-1910), the Town of Kew (1910-1921) and the City of Kew (1921-1994) were local government instrumentalities in the State of Victoria. In 1994, the City of Kew was amalgamated, together with the former Cities of Camberwell and Hawthorn, into the new City of Boroondara (1994- ). Like other local government entities of the period, Kew was administered by town clerks. The two notable town clerks in Kew's history were H. H. (Henry Hirst) Harrison (1868-1955) and W. D. (William Dickie) Birrell (1899-1974). Harrison was appointed to the position in 1901 and retired in 1938 after 37 years. Birrell, appointed Acting Town Clerk in 1921, became Town Clerk in 1938, following Harrison's retirement. He continued in this role until his retirement in 1966.This card is part of an historically significant civic collection, containing hundreds of separate invitations, documents, greeting cards, programmes and tickets issued and/or collected by successive town clerks. Items in the collection illuminate the political, social and cultural history of the district. As a continuous record, ranging across most decades of the Twentieth Century, they reveal changing tastes in design, values and relationships in the history of local government in Victoria.CITY OF KEW / MAYORAL DINNER/ ON THE OCCASION OF THE / ANNUAL INSPECTION / OF THE / CITY OF KEW / TOWN HALL, KEW / 14TH OCTOBER, 1938 / CR J T GAZZARD / MAYOR / TOWN HALL, KEW / 14TH OCTOBER 1938 civic invitations -- kew (vic), mayoral dinners -- kew (vic.), j t gazzard -
Victorian Harness Racing Heritage Collection at Lord's Raceway Bendigo
Photograph - Mounted photo finish, Akers & Co, Vin's Gift, 30 May 1942
Vin's Gift won the Novice Handicap at Ascot on the 30 May 1942. Vin's Gift owned by Mrs T Allen, trained and driven by T Allen. Two large coloured mounted photographs. Top: Novice Handicap Ascot / 30-5-42 Middle: Miraccilous 2nd / Won by Vin's Gift / Molly Pronto 3rd Bottom: Owner Mrs T Allen / Trainer & Driver T Allen / Vins Gift / (Rate 2m 23 7/9) / Distance 9f / H'cap 12y bhd / Time 2m 42 3/4 Bottom right corner: Akers & Co Melbhorses, race, winner, driver, trainer, owner, ascot, vin's gift, 1942, t allen, mrs allen, miraccilous, molly pronto -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
T-shirt - Mt Beauty Sport x2
Sporting teams used T-shirts to identify their players.Mt Beauty had a team playing sport and used red T-shirts to identify their players.Red cotton T-shirt with collar & 2 buttons at the front from the neck. Short sleeves with yellow band. Yellow in capital letters "Mount Beauty" machine sewn on the front and "233" yellow numbers machine sewn on the back. Unusual to have a separate piece of material sewn under the arm pits.Label at neck on inside: "Haworth Knit / Glen Iris, Melb. / 100% cottonsporting clothing. team sport. mt beauty. -
Wangaratta RSL Sub Branch
Medal
Medal awarded to Private C T WHYMAN 554269 who served with the 16th London Regiment (County of London). The 16th Battalion was known as the Queen's Westminster Rifles, an Infantry regiment of the British Army formed in 1908 and disbanded in 1938. The Battalion was engaged on the western front between 1914 and 1918. The item was found and no further information is known regarding Private WHYMAN.Round bronze medal - The obverse shows figure of 'Victory' (or 'Victoria') with her left arm extended and holding a palm branch in her right hand.The reverse has the words ‘THE GREAT / WAR FOR / CIVILISATION / 1914-1919' in four lines, all surrounded by a laurel wreath.The ribbon has an iridescent multi-colour scheme and attaches to the medal through a ring suspender The recipient's name, rank, service number and unit is impressed on the edge of the medal. 554269 Pte C T WHYMAN 16 LOND Rww1, 16 london regiment, c t whyman, 1918, victory medal -
Port Melbourne Historical & Preservation Society
Photograph - Cricket Club cup presented to James Michie, Ted Kobelt, Oct 2001
Cup kept by family for 117 years was brought to the Society for recording. Ted KOBELT made these photographic records but couldn't effectively capture the engraved messages.Colour photograph of the silver Cricket Club cup presented to James Michie in 1885. Photo taken from side of cup with "Presented by F T Derham.." inscription."Presented to J Michie Esq As a token of esteem" on one side. "PMUCC / Presented by F T Derham Esq MP / Won by the RICC / Season 1884-5"sport - cricket, hotels, james michie, frederick thomas derham, port melbourne cricket club -
Bright & District Historical Society operating the Bright Museum
Pipe clay
White clay pipe bowl. Shaft broken off at base of bowl. Large rusty brown stain on the outer surface of the bowl, above the shaft.pipe, goldfields, tobacco, leisure, recreation, gios, smoking -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Book - ALEC H CHISHOLM COLLECTION: BOOK ''THE SPIRIT OF WHARF HOUSE'' BY C.E.T.NEWMAN
Book. ALEC H CHISHOLM COLLECTION. 260 page hardcover book in a clear plastic jacket. 'The Spirit of Wharf House' tells the story of the merchant Robert Campbell (1769-1846) and descendents and his enterprise from Calcutta to Canberra (1788-1930). The author, C.E.T Newman, is a descendent. Published in 1961 with the assistance of the Commonwealth Literary Fund, by Angus and Robertson and printed by the Halstead Press, Sydney. Copy No.60 of a limited edition print run of 100. Illustrated with 30 colour and B&W photos and several sketches. Catalogue sticker ''2205 NEW'' on spine. Handwritten in ink on flyleaf ''To Alec Chisholm With the author's gratitude C. E. T. Newman''C. E. T. Newmanbooks, collections, history, alec h chisholm collection, robert campbell, c.e.t.newman, canberra, duntroon, yarralumla -
Tatura Irrigation & Wartime Camps Museum
Photograph - original, Tatura Fruit Cannery, 1921 - 1922
Original photograph of 12 men who started first cannery in Tatura. 1921-1922. J. Martin, J. Hanlon, J. Carey, L. Whitney, W. Hunter, W. Davey, W. Wilson, E. Quine, J. Hill, D. Morrison, T. Edwards and W. Cullivan. Original presented by T. Flanagan April 1985.Black and white original photograph of 12 men outside Tatura's first cannery. Photograph mounted on cardboard.on back: Names of men (see below). Tatura Cannery. Presented to Tatura and District Historical Society by T. Flanagan. April 1985.tatura fruit cannery, t. edwards, e. quine, j. martin, j. hanlon, j. carey, l. whitney, w. hunter, w. davey, w. wilson, j. hill, d. morrison, w. cullivan -
Bright & District Historical Society operating the Bright Museum
Photograph First Bright Station, Early Train at first Bright Station and T53 loco, 1894
The first bright Railway station was made of timber and was used from 1890 to 1900. This photograph shows the first station along with an early T class steam locomotive 0-6-0, number T53There are not many photographs showing the original timber station, The early T class loco is also interesting as there are only a few photographs of this type of loco on the Ovens Valley line.Black and White photograph showing the first bright Railway Station which lasted from 1890 to 1900. Also shows an early T class locomotive (0-6-0) no T53 at the stationOne of Bright's first trains at the first station, 1890 - 1900. On the back, it has the text, 'Bright Station 1894'photograph, bright, first, station, wooden station -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
T-Shirt - Mt Beauty Fire Brigade x2
Mt Beauty rural fire brigade was established in 1948 by the State Electricity Commission of Victoria as an industry brigade. When Mt Beauty was handed over to the Shire in 1961, the fire brigade became a member of the Country Fire Authority (C.F.A.). Today it is an urban fire brigade. The t-shirt would have been used when members were together during fire drills, competitions, meetings etc. The black shirt was used prior to 1950 and the Red shirt was used after March 1950 The red t-shirt was used in the following yearThe t-shirt was part of the Mt Beauty fire brigade uniform indicating that the fire fighters were part of a team and were able and wanted to be recognised. It also indicates a strong and popular organisation. Black thick cotton t-shirt with collar and short sleeves. A zip is at the top front. Sleeves have yellow strip near their opening. "Mount Beauty F B" has been zig zagged stitched onto the front, also in yellow. Red thick cotton t-shirt with collar and short sleeves. 2 buttons at the top front. Sleeves have a yellow strip near their opening."Mount / Beauty" has been zig zagged stitched onto the front, also in yellow.Tag inside back under collar - "Sportswear / Simpson / of Melbourne / Mr - then P.A.B. handwritten in space provided. also '36' and 'All cotton' tags attached. Tag inside back under the collar - "Haworth Knit / Glen Iris, Melb./ 100% Cotton"mt beauty; fire brigade; clothing; state electricity commission of victoria -
Mont De Lancey
Bowl
Carnival glass bowl with an etched Berry design, and bowl is standing on three feet. -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Child's bowl
White china feeding bowl for infants with black cats on border and base of bowl.domestic items, infants -
National Wool Museum
Photograph
Photograph of E H Lascelles, T E Bostock, JSB Orr, D Strachan taken in 1891E H LASCELLES T E BOSTOCK/JSB ORR D STRACHAN/ JUNE 1891 MURIEL FORSTER [?]/ JUNE 1891wool brokering, dennys, lascelles limited, lascelles, mr edward harewood strachan, mr david - strachan and co. limited bostock, mr t e orr, mr j s b -
Melbourne Tram Museum
Document - Research note, Keith Kings, "Tram T180", 1966
Provides a history note on T class tramcar No. 180, the builder (Duncan and Fraser), alterations, use and retention by the TMSV. Gives the specifications and Data on the tram. Built for the MBCTT. The tram is on display at the Melbourne Tram Museum. Yields a brief history of Tram T 180Single page, spirit duplicated foolscap sheet, Research Note - "Tram T 180. Dated 18/4/1966, written by Keith Kings. Stapled to item 6502. Has the TMSV Heading on the sheet.tramcars, tramways, history, mbctt, t class, tram 180 -
Ringwood and District Historical Society
Map - Plan of Survey, Part of Crown Portion 12, Parish of Ringwood, Victoria - circa 1930
Map of area bounded by Ringwood Street, Melbourne Street and Adelaide Street, showing details of Adelaide Street allotments and existing outbuildings. Certificate of Title numbers include Ringwood Street C/T 3418-553, C/T 3563-433, Adelaide Street C/T 7151-047, C/T 7038-465, C/T 7098-464, C/T 7098-465, C/T 3604-635, C/T 8066-900, C/T 3866-118, C/T 3609-728, and C/T Vol 3670 Fol 133992.Subsequent additional notations identifying 1971 closure of Melbourne Street North, and properties of Hone, Patendon, Pines Hosptial, Mail Office, Presbyterian Church and Falconers Grocery Shop on Whitehorse Road corner. -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Port Fairy Historical Society Museum and Archives
Domestic object - Soup bowl
Part of the crockery used on the "S.S.Casino" one of the Belfast and Koroit Steam Navigation Company ships used on the Melbourne-Port Fairy -Portland run. Sank in 1937 in Apollo Bay.Bowl: large white soup bowl with the inscription of the Belfast & Koroit Steam navigation Company"Belfast & Koroit S N Co Ltdlocal history, domestic items, crockery, belfast and koroit steam navigation company, s.s.casino -
Orbost & District Historical Society
bowl, late 19th century -first half 20th century
A circular bowl on a raised round base with a ridged rim. It is a silver plated copper bowl.On bottom : A.J. Quality Sterling Silver platedcontainer bowl silver-plated -
National Vietnam Veterans Museum (NVVM)
Memorabilia - Lexus Melbourne Cup Tour Trophy, miniature
Boxed miniature of the Lexus Melbourne Cup, gold with round bowl and 2 handles on bowl.Proudly manufactured by ABC Bullion, a Pallion company.lexus melbourne cup