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Mont De Lancey
Last
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron double-ended Lap Last.bootmaking tools, boot lasts -
Mont De Lancey
Bootmaker's Repair Stand
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Wooden bookmaker's repair stand, opens slightly at one end. Two pieces of wood connected by two screws.bootmaking tools -
Mont De Lancey
Heel and Sole Cutters, Mobbs & Lewis
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast Iron pieces - 1 Heel cutter and 1 Sole cutter.bootmaking tools -
Mont De Lancey
Nail Bag, Wandin Thomas Sebire JP
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Brown leather handmade nail bag, with strap.tool bags -
Mont De Lancey
Half-Moon Knife
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron handmade knife with a wooden handle, attached by a nail.bootmaking tools, cutting tools -
Mont De Lancey
Circular Welt Cutter, Wandin Thomas Sebire JP
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Welt Cutter with a wooden handle. -
Mont De Lancey
Seat Breaker
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Seat Breaker with a wooden handle. -
Mont De Lancey
Fudge Wheel
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Fudge Wheel with a wooden handle. -
Mont De Lancey
Foot Measure/Ruler
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Wooden, folding, foot measure/ruler with brass clasps.bootmaking tools, measures, rulers -
Mont De Lancey
Hammer and 2 Knives/Cutters
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron hammer with a wooden handle. Larger Cutter/knife, cast iron with a wooden handle. Smaller Cutter/knife, cast-iron with a wooden handleHammer: "London" Larger knife: "Pettys Sheffield".bootmaking tools, hammers, cutting tools -
Mont De Lancey
Bootmaking Equipment
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast iron Heel plate. Miscellaneous Sole plates. Hobnails and a tin of wooden sprigs.bootmaking tools, nails -
Mont De Lancey
Heel Shave and 2 Heels
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.Cast Iron Heel Shave. 1 larger Leather heel piece. 1 smaller Leather heel piece.bootmaking tools, shaves -
Mont De Lancey
Awls and Awl Tips
Wandin Thomas Sebire JP (1867-1960) learnt boot-making as a young man. In a small workshop on his property in Sebire Avenue, Wandin he made boots for family, friends & neighbours. He also repaired boots & made other small leather articles. Bootmaking is a complex process requiring a variety of tools. The leather is cut to shape, glazed & burnished (polished) with heated irons. The pieces are stretched onto, & nailed to, a wooden last to form the boot. Once attached to the insole, the boot is finished on a metal last. Uppers are stitched with waxed thread through holes made with an awl. Heels comprise pieces nailed together & neatened with a heel shave. Metal plates, short nails or hob nails driven into the sole & heel, often in a pattern, improved durability.5 x Cast iron Awls, all with wooden handles. 1 x container of spare Awl metal tips.bootmaking tools, awls, piercing tools -
National Wool Museum
Textile - DIY Deluge Design No. 5, Alison Withers, 2023
Artist Alison Withers work DIY Deluge Design No. 5 was awarded Expressions: The Wool Quilt Acquisitive Award in 2023. Works were received from across Australasia and internationally from some of quilting’s most highly regarded and awarded artists. Finalists work was displayed at Art Quilt Australia 2023 presented by Ozquilt Network and the National Wool Museum from 12 August to 12 November 2023. Artist Statement: It's clear we need to adapt the anatomy of our human spaces to become more resilient to the increasingly unavoidable impacts of climate change. Made by piecing, applique and free machine stitching, using industrial felt, hand dyed merino felt, woollen suiting, cotton fabric, wool theatre curtain backing and cotton and polyester thread.Rectangular portrait orientated art quilt depicting an environmental scene including boats, lights, elevated buildings, plants and birds on a background of shades of cream, blue and grey. A baton is sewn into the back at the bottom.Back: DIY Deluge Design No.5 / Alison Withersquilt, ozquilt network, prize, wool, art, felt, piecing, applique -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
A five petal machine made lace collar, this item would be attached to the neckline of a garment and appears to be designed to lay flat although a little starch applied could make it stand up like petals around the neck. The Folk Art style rose between two rosebuds design is simple and outlined in fine black thread as are the scalloped edges of each collar petal The design being embroidered on to net leads one to believe that this was made on a Cornely machine. The Cornely machine had a great impact on the embroidery industry. It developed from hand tambouring and contemporary inventions in the field of sewing machines and was the first single-needle embroidery machine. It was easy to use, could be used in the home or a small workroom and as the mechanism developed it became difficult to distinguish machine from hand sewn. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Cream lace collar with black edging. Rosette pattern and some scalloping around selvage edge. Machine made lacelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, garment, clothing, machine -
Frankston RSL Sub Branch
Cap, Forage
A standard issue RAAF blue Other Ranks' woollen forage cap with oxidised brass RAAF badge on left hand side. The two buttons at the front are made of black plastic. The cap is lined with black cotton fabric. The crown opening has been sewn up with large black running stitches in heavy black thread. A rectangular shaped white cotton maker's label that bears various markings indicating size, year of manufacture, etc. is sewn inside the left hand side of the cap. A label attached inside the cap has the following: "V 330, 1944, MADE IN AUSTRALIA, SIZE 7" and the D^D marking with the letters "A F". The cap is also marked with the name "FRASER" and the service number "RAAF A36508"raaf, air force, australia, world war 2, ww2, airmen, aircrew, kings crown badge, -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Camera, Black rectangular Kodak with case, 1925-1935
This camera was known as the Vest Pocket camera the earliest models of which were first manufactured in 1912-1914. The later model which was made from 1915 was very successful, selling 1.75 million units and was used during the First World War. This particular model was manufactured from 1925-1934 This camera has significance being one of the earliest made which made photography accessible to a much section of the community..1 Black rectangular camera with rounded ends and white metal fittings. There is a hinged back which when opened reveals a circular section with a folding bed behind.A metal hinged screw is on the left side The other side has a small circular red inset and a movable metal section. .2 Dark tan leather case, rectangular in shape with rounded edges.It closes with a silver metal clasp. There are two slits in the opposite end possibly for strap.There is a sunburst stamped into both sides of the case and it is stitched with coarse cotton thread..1 On outside of camera " Use Film No A127" Inside hinged Back, " made In USA by Eastman Kodak Co Rochester NY 27323 Vest Pocket Camera Model B .2 Kodak is stamped in the leather above the fastener. warrnambool, kodak, eastman kodak camera, vest pocket kodak model b -
Bendigo Military Museum
Equipment - TRAINING STAND FOR .303 IN LEE ENFIELD RIFLE, 21 Bn. AIF, c1915-1918
This is a WW1 stand for mounting a .303 rifle, to train soldiers in shooting.This device consists of two parts; 1. Top part has an adjustable 'arm' . At the end of each arm is a leather covered 'U' section. Under the arm is a large threaded rod and knurled knob, this is to adjust elevation. At the center of the arm is a pivot that can lock into position. This top section is mounted on a tripod, it can be removed. 2. This is a steel tripod made out of 'T' section steel. There are fixed cross braces about 40 cm fom bottom. The top has a tube section within which the upper arm mounts.Marked on one leg is "XXI". Believed to be from 21st Bn. AIF. on the top of that leg is a very small arrow head.ww1, training, .303 rifles -
Villa Alba Museum
Decorative object - Furnishing gimp (braid), Decorative furnishing gimp, detached from curtains, 1850-1900
This is the same gimp as on the curtains. Probably saved because it was beautiful and expensive, but inherently decontextualised from its original historic use.Length of decorative upholstery gimp, unpicked from original curtains and wound onto a piece of card for storage. Gimp is a type of upholstery trim. a flat tape made up of threads or fine cords forming a wave or chain design, held in place by another wavy cord to produce an openwork, geometric braid. In this item, the cords are respectively light blue and metallic gold (much of it tarnished to silvery colour). The gimp is en suite with the set of curtains and their ornaments (qv) - another luxurious trimming for expensive furnishings.upholstery trimmings -
Royal Australian and New Zealand College of Obstetricians & Gynaecologists (RANZCOG)
Glass aural syringe associated with Dr Geoff Bishop
This item belonged to Dr Geoff Bishop. Similar in appearance to Heath's glass aural syringe.Glass aural syringe with glass plunger, rod with compressed cotton plunger, and (loose) rubber cap [237.2]. The tip of the syringe is elongated and has no attachment for needles. Distal end of plunger has a widened area shaped like a small glass cork. Cottom thread is wound around a small depression. Distal end of plunger has been inserted through a small cork. Above the cork is a wooden cap with a central hole. The head of the plunger has a 'cotton reel' depression and fits into the outside of the wooden cap.irrigation -
Bendigo Military Museum
Accessory - SEWING KIT, c.WWII
Item re Frederick Gardner DAVEY DFC No 410533 RAAF. Refer Reg No 3536P for his service details.RAAF issue mending kit. Rectangular, khaki, cotton drill material which can be rolled & secured with 2 white cotton ties. Inside the roll is a long white pouch divided into 3 sections. At the opposite end to the ties is a khaki pouch with a piece of grey flannel attached. Contents include 2 needles, 1 thimble, 3 silver metal buttons, 2 brown bakelite buttons, 2 hanks of navy wool, 1 hank of khaki wool, 1 hank of black, cream & green thread.Handwritten in black ink on outside near ties: 410533 RAAF.sewing, kit, military, accessory -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Container - Blair's Bottle
A clear glass bottle with a hard black screw in stopper. Written in the glass is 'Blair's Bendigo". "This Bottle ii the property of F.W. Blair PTY LTD BENDIGO and cannot legally used by others". The bottle is seven and a half centimetres diameter at its base and for 17 centimetres of its height, for the next four centimetres it curves to the bottom of the neck which is three and a half centimetres diameter. The neck is five centimetres long the last two centimetres are threaded for the stopper, The neck is two and a half centimetres aa the top.bottle, blair's -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Textile - RAYON AND COTTON CUSHION-PALESTINE/AUSTRALIAN COMMONWEALTH MILITARY FORCES, A WARTIME SOUVENIR FROM PALESTINE, 1941
Textiles. A wartime souvenir from Palestine. Peach coloured rayon (?) fabric, with a cream coloured calico back. Embroidered in silk and cotton thread in chain stitch. A palm tree on either side of the front frames a semi-circular shape with the Australian and British flags at the top on either side of the semi-circle. A crown is embroidered at the top in the open section of the circle. Australian Commonwealth Military Forces is embroidered around the semi-circle. Below, is an embroidery of a Mosque, and below this are the words: Mosque of Amar (?). To my dear Sister.Palestine. Australian Commonwealth Military Forces 1941. To my dear Sister. Mosque of Amar(?) Omar(?).textiles, domestic, rayon and cotton cushion -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - INFANT'S COFFEE COLOURED CROCHETED LACE BONNET
Clothing. Infant's coffee coloured crocheted lace bonnet. Concentric circles of lace from centre back. Edged on both sides with scalloped lace. Fully lined with coffee coloured net. Two rows of .8 cm blue satin ribbon and two rows of .8 cm pink satin ribbon threaded from side to side. Four pink rosebuds across front edge of bonnet. Rosettes of pink and blue ribbon on each corner above ties of cream coloured silk ribbon.costume, children's, infant's coffee coloured bonnet -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Medal - MEDAL COLLECTION: PRINCE ALFRED VISIT MEDAL 1867, 1867
Object. Pewter like metal medal with 2mm hole drilled on the top crest. A piece of 8mm orange ribbon is threaded through the hole. Obverse: Engraved around the edge, "To Commemorate the visit of HRH Prince Alfred Duke of Edinburgh KG to Australia''. In the centre of the medal is an engraving of a sailing ship. Below the ship are the words ''HMS GALATEA 1867''. Reverse: A pattern of a trailing vine is engraved around the edge of the medal. In the centre is a head and shoulders profile of Prince Alfred. Around the profile are the words ''HRH DUKE OF EDINBURGH''.numismatics, medals - civil, prince alfred visit medal 1867 -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Functional object - Sewing Work Box
Owned by Jean Young - born Falkirk, Scotland, 1811. Believed to be listed in Falkirk Census in 1851. Married William Hill. Possibly sailed in 'Tempest'. Died at Dunolly, Victoria.Black paper mache sewing work box. Lid inlaid with abalone. General design has been highlighted in gold paint. The box is lined with pale lilac and white satin, lid unlined. Top panel and bottom edge decoratively shaped - slightly domed lid and front panel decorated in a similar manner to lid. Box contains needles, threads, buttons, thimbles and a pin cushion as follows:- Peri-Lusta .03 Crystal Rayon Spun Mending Thread .04 Flora McDonald Needle Packet .0 |Packet of Needles W.Woodfield & Sons .06 Mauve satin needle case .07 Tortice tatting schuttle .08 Round wooden box with 5 pearl buttons and 2 cloth covered buttons .09 Square wooden needle case with red velvet lining and leather strip and brass clip .10 Round lace pin-cushion with very fine ecru crochet dark green lining .11 Unknown handle of black composition with bone end and four inlaid lines with dot at end ,12 Ivory stiletto with screw top. Total of 13 parts to the object.domestic items, sewing, handcrafts, equipment -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Ditty Bag, Late 19th century
A Ditty Bag (or box) was originally called “ditto bag” because it contained at least two of everything, two needles, two spools of thread, two buttons, etc. With the passing of years, the “ditto” was dropped in favour of "ditty" and remains so today. Before World War I, the Navy issued ditty boxes made of wood and styled after footlockers. These carried the personal gear and some clothes of the sailor. Today, the ditty bag is still issued to recruits and contains a sewing kit, toiletry articles and personal items such as writing paper and pens. Another source says a Ditty Box or Ditty Bag is possibly from the Saxon word “dite”, meaning tidy or from the English word “dittis”, a type of canvas material. A small box or bag in which a sailor kept his valuables such as letters, small souvenirs and sewing supplies.An item that is socially significant as it gives insight into a sailors life aboard ship and is another part of marine history. Items such as these although they were regarded at the time as everyday objects help us now to map various aspects of marine archaeology thorough the ages.Sailors Ditty Bag, canvas bag for holding all the sail making and roping tools, with tie and brass clasp. Holed.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
At 38.8cm on its widest edge this delicate lace collar would sit nicely across the shoulders with the collar points extending approximately 10cm onto the bodice. It is a fine example of hand embroidered Limerick lace and the variety of stitches used is clear to see. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The darning and buttonhole stitches are quite obvious in this piece. According to the British lace historian, Pat Earnshaw, there was one Limerick lace collar that was decorated using 47 different filling stitches. In addition, needlerun forms were often combined with tamboured outlines to add further contrast.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand embroidered Limerick lace collar, with three straight edges trimmed with an oval motif, and a fourth semi-circular with simple reinforcement.Packaged with note: "Limerick Lace Collar"lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, collar, clothing, amess -
National Wool Museum
Functional object - Mending Table, c1930
Any faults in the final product can be repaired by mending. Prior to more advanced machinery, fabric was draped over a mending table and carefully inspected for faults. Quick eyes and nimble fingers were needed. Repairing faults was a highly skilled manual operation. Any knot or thickness had to be removed without affecting the quality of the fabric and mending had to be invisible. In the 1930s to make the day pass faster, popular records were played to the factory workers in the mending room. The top of the table is propped up to make it a well-lit surface over which bolts of fabric were unrolled to check for faults. Menders repaired them with invisible hand stitching. Each weaver stitched a coloured thread in the selvage to show the start of their shift, therefore if mistakes were found the company could easily find who was responsible. This table was used by Gail Morris in teh 1960s. Large wooden table with tilted top. mending table, wool processing, fabric, textile industry -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine