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Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, Moulding Plane, 7/8" Complex, 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, Beechwood & Metal, 7/8" Complex. Stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘36’ added on entering the collection in 1993. Later engraved number ‘38’ added on entering the collection in 2010.woodworking tools, moulding planes, bertie greenwood, carpentry, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, Moulding Plane, 3/4" Beading, 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, Beechwood & Metal, 3/4" Beading. Repaired.Stamped ‘5/16’. Also stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘39’ added on entering the collection in 2010. woodworking tools, moulding planes, bertie greenwood, carpentry, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, Moseley & Son, Moulding Plane, 5/8" Convex, 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, Beechwood & Metal, 5/8" Convex, Moseley & Son London.Stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘40’ added on entering the collection in 2010.woodworking tools, moulding planes, bertie greenwood, carpentry, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, Moulding Plane, 1/4" Convex, 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, Beechwood & Metal, 1/4" Convex. Stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘41’ added on entering the collection in 2010.woodworking tools, moulding planes, bertie greenwood, carpentry, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, Sims, Moulding Plane, 5/8" Ogee, 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, Beechwood & Metal, 5/8" Ogee, Simms Queen St West London.Stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘42’ added on entering the collection in 2010.woodworking tools, moulding planes, bertie greenwood, carpentry, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, Moseley & Son, Moulding Plane, 1/8" Cove, 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, Beechwood & Metal, 1/8" Cove, Moseley & Son London.Stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘43’ added on entering the collection in 2010.woodworking tools, moulding planes, bertie greenwood, carpentry, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, H Wallis Wmsburg, Moulding Plane, 7/8" Curved, 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, White Oak & Metal, 7/8" Curved, H Wallis Wmsburg Mass.Stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘44’ added on entering the collection in 2010.woodworking tools, moulding planes, bertie greenwood, carpentry, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Tool, Moulding Plane, 3/8" Angle (45), 19th Century
In woodworking, a moulding plane is a specialised plane used for making the complex shapes found in wooden mouldings. Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often beech or maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed.Bertie Robert Edgar Greenwood was born c. 1880/81 and died aged 82 in Hawthorn in 1963. His father and possibly his grandfather were also carpenters. Bertie’s work as a cabinetmaker required precise planing to give lovely edges and other elaborate decorations. The major item in the tool collection is Bertie’s wooden box, which houses 45 different moulding planes. Later in his life, he used these skills extensively when he worked as a patternmaker for a plastering company. Bertie worked through his seventies, retiring when he lost a finger. The tool collection was donated to the Kew Historical Society by Bertie’s granddaughter, Pamela Webster Bloom, a former resident of Kew.Plane - Wooden Moulding, Beechwood & Metal, 3/8" Angle (45).Stamped with owner name ‘G. Greenwood’, with ‘G’ subsequently over-stamped with ‘B’. Later engraved number ‘45’ added on entering the collection in 2010.moulding planes, carpentry tools, bertie greenwood, woodworking tools, burwood road — hawthorn (vic.) -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Photograph, S.S. "EDINA," Moorabool Street Wharf, Geelong, c. 1870's - 1930's
This black and white photograph was taken when the SS Edina was as port at the Gellong Wharf in Moorabool Street. The Port of Geelong had many wool sheds alongside the wharf - wool was a major export product. ABOUT THE S S EDINA The three masted iron screw steamer SS Edina was built in Glasgow, Scotland, in 1854 by Barclay and Curle. She was adorned with the figurehead of ‘fair maid of Judea’. The many years of service made SS Edina famous world-wide as the longest serving screw steamer. (The term screw steamer comes from being driven by a single propeller, sometimes called a screw, driven by a steam engine.) SS Edina’s interesting history includes English Chanel runs, serving in the Crimean Ware carrying ammunition, horses and stores to the Black Sea, and further service in the American Civil War and later, serving in the western district of Victoria as well as in Queensland and carried gold, currency and gold prospectors Australia to New Zealand. SS Edina had the privilege of being an escort vessel to H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh during his visit to Australia in 1867. In March 1863 SS Edina arrived in Port Phillip Bay, Melbourne and was bought by Stephen Henty, of Portland fame, to work the cargo and passenger run from Melbourne – Warrnambool – Port Fairy - Portland. After a short time of working the run from Australia to New Zealand, with passengers and cargo that included gold and currency, she returned to her Melbourne - Warrnambool – Port Fairy run, with cargo including bales of wool produced in the western district of Victoria. The Warrnambool Steam Packet Company purchased SS Edina in 1867; she was now commanded by Captain John Thompson and Chief Engineer John Davies. She survived several mishaps at sea, had a complete service and overhaul and several changes of commanders. In 1870 SS Edina was in Lady Bay, Warrnambool, when a gale sprung up and caused a collision with the iron screw steamer SS Dandenong. SS Edina’s figurehead was broken into pieces and it was not ever replaced. SS Edina was re-fitted in 1870 then was used as a coastal trader in Queensland for a period. She was then brought to Melbourne to carry cargo and passengers between Melbourne and Geelong and performed this service 1880-1938. During this time (1917) she was again refitted with a new mast, funnel, bridge and promenade deck, altering her appearance. In 1938, after more collisions, SS Edina was taken out of service. However she was later renamed Dinah and used as a ‘lighter’ (a vessel without engine or superstructure) to be towed and carry wool and general cargo between Melbourne and Geelong. In 1957, after 104 years, the SS Edina was broken up at Footscray, Melbourne. Remains of SS Edina’s hull can be found in the Maribyrnong River, Port Phillip Bay. [Reference: A Brief Review of Steam Navigation in Victoria; C Dickson Gregory; Centenary Maritime Exhibition catalogue, 1934; published by Shiplovers' Society of Victoria Dandenong, Passengers in History, http://passengersinhistory.sa.gov.au/node/924034 Edina, Victorian Heritage Database VHR S199 http://vhd.heritage.vic.gov.au/shipwrecks/heritage/199 SS Edina, Coastal Trader and Passenger Ship 1853-1938, Museum Victoria Collections, https://collections.museumvictoria.com.au/articles/6227 SS ‘Edina’ – the Longest Serving Screw Steamer in the World, POI Australia, https://poi-australia.com.au/ss-edina-the-longest-serving-steamer-in-the-world/ ]This postcard of the SS Edina is significant for its association with the screw steamer SS Edina and shows her at one of her trading ports on the Melbourne - Warrnambool - Port Fairy - Portland run. The SS Edina is heritage listed on the Victorian Heritage Database VHR S199. She had endeared herself to the people of Port Phillip Bay as a passenger ferry, part of their history and culture. She played a significant role in the Crimean War, the American Civil War and the gold rush in New Zealand. She also served western Victoria for many years in her cargo and passenger runs. The SS Edina is famous for being the longest serving screw steamer in the world. After spending her first nine years overseas she arrived in Melbourne and her work included running the essential service of transporting cargo and passengers between Melbourne and the western Victoria ports of Warrnambool, Port Fairy and Portland. The SS Edina was purchased in the late 1860’s by local Warrnambool business, the Warrnambool Steam Packet Co. and continued trading from there as part of the local business community. The SS Edina’s original ‘fair maid of Judea’ figurehead was broken to pieces in a collision with another vessel (the SS Dandenong) in a gale off Warrnambool, Victoria, in 1870.Black and White photograph of S.S Edina at the Moorabool Street Wharf, Geelong in calm water that shows the reflection of the steamer. Ship has no sails raised. The funnel has a light coloured base with a dark coloured top. There are people on board the steamer. Other ship masts and people are in the background. In the foreground is a jetty with a small boat beside it and a person inside the boat. There is a title printed along the base of the photograph. c. 1870's to 1930'sPrinted at base of photograph "S.S. "EDINA," Moorabool Street Wharf, Geelong"warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, shipwrecked artefact, barclay & curle, figurehead 'fair maid of judea', centenary maritime exhibition 1934, a brief review of steam navigation in victoria, pleasure steamer edina, trade and travel late 19th and early 20th century, trade melbourne to geelong, screw steamer edina, coastal trader edina, lighter dinah, cargo carrying for cremean war, cargo carrying for american civil war, passenger and trade in western district of victoria, export gold and currency and gold diggers to new zealand, export vessel to h r h the duke of edinburgh, melbourne - warrnambool - port fairy - portland cargo run, warrnambool steam packet company, stephen henty, captain john thompson, chief engineer john davies, lady bay warrnambool, lighter edina, shipping victoria, port phillip bay steamers, steamship great britain, edina, vhr s199 victorian heritage database, postcard of ss edina 1870's - 1930's -
Greensborough Historical Society
Document - Financial Record, List of contributors to the erection of a Church at St Helena [1870], 26/12/1870
A list of contributors to the erection of St Katherine's Church St Helena. Major contributor was Anthony Beale senior who originally built the Church in memory of his wife Katherine Beale; other contributors include Elizabeth James, Katherine Burl, Katharine Halliburton, C. S. Wingrove, Anthony Beale, Charles Maplestone, Hinkins (no further details).Photocopy of document, 1 page.st helena, st katherine's church st helena, anthony beale -
Orbost & District Historical Society
document, Bureau of Meteorology, DROUGHTS IN AUSTRALIA, 1957
Foley, J. C. (James Charles) (1892-1967) , classified major droughts in Australia from the early period of European settlement to 1955 on the basis of rainfall analyses. This document is a useful reference tool.A 19 pp copy of a document titled DROUGHTS IN AUSTRALIA, Review of Records from Earliest Years of Settlement to 1955. It was compiled by the Bureau of Meteorology in September,1957. This section deals mostly with droughts in Victoria.Author J.C. Foleydrought-victoria foley-james-charles bureau-of-meteorology climate -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book, The Pyreness Shire, Avoca Shire Heritage Study 1864-1994, Volume 1, 1995
The Pyreness Shire, Avoca Shire Heritage Study 1864-1994, Volume 11) 21008.1 - Volume 1 - Pale blue bound book of 47 pages - Environmental History 2) 21008.2 - Volume 3 - Pale blue bound book - Geographical Locations of Individual Sites, alphabetically by Road Namewendy jacobs, karen twigg, nigel lewis/richard aitken pty ltd, shire of avoca, avoca heritage study, national estate committee (victoria), national estate grants program, victorian goldfields, pyrenees, moonambel, natte yallock, rathscar, barkly, redbank, crowlands, landsborough, the pyrenees shire, lexton shire, exploration and pastoralism, gold, water, farming, wine and fruit, towns and settlements, living in community, road and rail, extractive industries, conclusion, ballarat, major mitchell, djadja wurrung aboriginal group, djab wurrung aboriginal group, avoca, lamplough, chinese camp, alluvial mining, ironbark mine, upper homebush, homebush deep lead mine, avoca and district historical society, deep leads, quartz mining, percydale, hog's reef mine, avoca, dredging, hunter's home, moonambel c. 1890, mrs ellen allan, lamplough, the 1865 land act, flour milling, flour mill, moonambel. c. 1880, harkins farm, bung bong c. 1900, dairying, viticulture, navarre, schools, churches, cemetaries, wars, hotels, halls, sports, horse racing, country fire authority, maryborough-avoca railway, cobb and co -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Ledger, Minute book Glenleigh Fabrics PtyLtd, Circa 1955
In 1869, the Warrnambool Meat Preserving Company commenced their business on the site, where it operated until 1875 when it was sold to the directors of the Warrnambool Woolen Mill Company. After being destroyed by fire in 1882 it wasn’t until 1910 that the Warrnambool Chamber of Commerce was approached by Marcus Saltau and Peter McGennan to invest in a new mill. The original directors were James Dickson, P J McGennan, Robert Swinton, M Saltau, and J W Younger. In 1955 the Warrnambool Woollen Mill formed a partnership with the Wangaratta Woollen Mills. Dunlop bought the mill in 1968. From that time until its closure in 2000 it had a number of different owners, the last being the Smith Family Industries. Directors listed for this period 1956 -1965 include Mr Fletcher Jones, E.E Ladner, N. K. Morris, C. J. McIntyre, J Bennett, J Dickson.. W. S Crowe was manager and Mr E.M Dempster was secretary.The minutes record the decision- making process of one of the major industries of Warrnambool for a significant period of the Woollen Mill’s operation.Heavy black card binder held with thick cloth binding. 1557 Pages with some loose pages at the back of the folder.Kalamazoo Loose leaf Books. Size 42. warrnambool,, warrnambool woollen mill, glenleigh fabrics pty ltd, -
Bendigo Military Museum
Book - BOOK, SOLDIERS PAY, Australian Army, 1) 1965. .2) 1967
Refer to the service of Major Maxwell Bruce TINKLER 337713 Unit 102 Field Workshops Served SVN 10 March 1968 - 25 February 1969Two pay books. The cover is a flexible brown artificial material. Printing on the front is in black ink. The Australian crest is in the centre. Inside the book are numbered pages showing payments and pay history.Front Cover..1) Book NR A 37154 Maxwell Bruce TINKLER 337713 .2) Book NR C 27592 Maxwell Bruce TINKLER 337713 CANCELLED vietnam war, aust soldiers, soldiers pay -
Bendigo Military Museum
Photograph - PHOTOGRAPH WW2, BENDIGO, c.1940
... : R J Smith, L C Polgaise, H Jobling, L G Gilliam, H C Jones... Smith, L C Polgaise, H Jobling, L G Gilliam, H C Jones, H H ...Black & white photo of a group of 16 Australian Soldiers, taken in Bendigo. Black print identifies company & troops. Mounted on heavy fawn coloured cardboard.In black print above photo: “A COMPANY - NO 4 SECTION 3rd AASC, CAMP, BENDIGO” In black print below photo:BACK ROW L-R: R J Smith, L C Polgaise, H Jobling, L G Gilliam, H C Jones, H H Major, R B Ennis CENTRE ROW L-R: S H Mounsey, H Hore, Cpl F G O'Leary, Sgt O R Hamilton, Cpl P J O'Leary, J Kirby, F L Jeffery FRONT ROW L-R: D J McPherson, W R Larke” On back: Bill LARKE Murphy St Bendigo joined the Army Training Camp at Racecourse Bendigo in June 1940. Started as 3rd Australian Army Supply Service Corp. Changed to 2/32 Training Battalion (a camp was opened at Showgrounds Bendigo but closed down later). 2/32 T Battalion became 2/22 Training Battalion, they marched out of Racecourse Bendigo to Puckapunyal and became 4th Anti Tank Regiment.photography, aasc, bendigo -
Bendigo Military Museum
Album - ALBUM, LETTERS WW2, C.WW2
Herbert Trangmar Allan, refer Cat No 2755.4 for his extensive service records and awards.Pink, hard cover photo album used as a holder to display letters. .1) Letter from C in C Gen HQ Melbourne, 17.4.1942. From Gen BLAMEY to Major H T ALLAN 2/17 AIF. .2) MID Certificate dated 30.12.1941. Major H T ALLAN M C. .3) Letter dated 24.12.1944 from HQ 1Aust Corps to 'Blue' from 'Morshead'. .4) Letter dated 18.4.1946 from OIC NSW Echelon & Records to Mrs G M ALLAN, Bellevue, NSW, notifying her of Award of Mention in Despatches. It refers to NX12229 Lt Col Herbert Trangmar ALLAN HQ 5 Base Sub Area. .5) Letter dated 14.4.1945 from OIC NSW Echelon & Records to Mrs G M ALLAN notifying her of Award of Mention in Despatches. It refers to NX12229 Major T/Col Herbert Trangmar ALLAN, Finschhafen Base Sub Area. .6) Newspaper cutting titled Many NSW Men Receive Bravery Awards. Up to 31.3.1944. Marked down near bottom of the cutting is MID for T/LT Colonel H T ALLAN OBE MC ED. .7) Memo dated 11.1944 from 5 Aust Base Sub Area. Cover note for Record of Service for NX12229 Lt/Col H T ALLAN 5 Aust Base Sub Area. .8) Letter dated 2.8.1942 from NSW L of C Area Sydney to Mrs G M ALLAN Bellevue, NSW, notifying her of MID for Maj H T ALLAN MC NX12229 for his services 2.1941 - 7.1941. Signed by Lt Col H J Bennett. .9) Letter dated 14.4.1945 from OIC NSW Echelon & Records, Sydney to NX12229 Lt Col H T ALLAN HQ 5 Aust Base Sub Area. Aust Honours & Awards. MID. .10) Letter 7.12.1950 from HQ Eastern Command Vic Barracks Paddington to Col H T ALLAN OBE MC ED R of O. Watsons Bay re Change of address to 2MD. .11) Memo dated 28.12.1944 from HQ 1st Army AIF to 5 Aust Base Sub Area re Confirmation of Promotion of NX12229 Major H T ALLAN to Lt Colonel. .12) MID Certificate dated 15.3.1945 for Maj CT / LT Col H T ALLAN OBE MC ED Finschhafen Base Sub Area. .13) MID Certificate dated 19.7.1945 for Major CT / LT Col H T ALLAN OBE MC ED, Finschhafen Base Sub Area. .14) MID Certificate dated 21.2.1946 for LT Col H T ALLAN OBE MC ED, HQ 5 Aust Base Sub Area. .15) Letter. Letterhead is of Parliament of the Commonwealth Federal Members Rooms, Sydney, dated 1.12.1941. To: Dear Mr Allan. From: W M Hughes. Handwritten on 3 sheets of paper using 4 sides. Subject matters such as fighting, AIF, loss of HMAS Sydney, the Russian front. .16) Letter & envelope. Letter: Dated 18.4.? Letterhead: Guards Club Brook St W1. To: Dear ALLAN From: BIRDWOOD of ANZAC. Subject: Their friendship - then they have to deal with 'loathsome Japs & Germans'. Envelope. OHMS, 2-1/2 penny stamp. To: Major H T ALLAN MC & OBE AMF. C/o Defence Dept Melb, Australia. On the bottom is signature of BIRDWOOD M. Readdressed to C/o 9th Div HQ Abroad. Envelope rear is franked: PO 3D JE 42. .17) Memo dated 18.6.1946. From: HQ 8MB. To: H/Col H T ALLAN ANG PcB Rabaul. Releaes of NX12229 Lt Col (T/Col) H T ALLAN OBE MC. Posted to Retired list 7.5.1946. .18) Memo dated 6.11.1946. From: OIC, 2nn Echelon AHQ. AMF. To: Lt Col H T ALLAN OBE MC ED. C/- Mrs G M ALLAN, Queens Club, King St. Sydney NSW. .19) Letter dated 8.8.1941. Letterhead of Minister for the Navy. To: Dear Major ALLAN. From: W HUGHES. Subject: All facets of WWII to date & prospective war with Japan. .20) Memo dated 31.8.1945. From: AMF OIC NSW Echelon & Records. To: Mrs E M ALLAN, King St Sydney. Re: MID for NX12229 Maj (T / LT Col) Herbert Trangmar ALLAN OBE MC ED Finschhafen Base Sub Area.letters, albums, certificates, awards -
Bendigo Military Museum
Clothing - HANDKERCHIEF, Pre 1915
Original owner - DOUGLAS John Charles Edward (Major), 10th Battalion, Yorkshire Regiment. Died 18th December 1915, Flanders.Rectangular shaped handkerchief, khaki colour, made of silk with hand embroidered name.Hand embroidered in white thread, top left hand corner "J. C. Douglas".clothing, handkerchief, ww1 -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Folder, Material prepared by Harry Gilham pertaining to draft Eltham Major Activity Structure Plan, 2004
Specific focus on history of and impact to the Eltham War Memorial property. Contents: Eltham Major Activity Structure Plan Comments Sheet; Response by Harry Gilham, 22 June 2004 Minutes for the policy and Services Committee of Nillumbik Shire Council held Wednesday 11 August 2004 Photocopy of Eltham War Memorial Trust Booklet cover and Honour Roll Board in Eltham War Memorial Hall Photocopy of newsclippings - Eltham War Memorial Trust: Ready Now for Forward Movement; Acknowledgements £722; publication unknown, c.1946 and Eltham War Memorial Trust: "Garden of Remembrance"; Baby Health Centre First Building, The News: The Newspaper of the City of Heidelberg and of the Shire of Eltham, 11 April 1947 (EDHS_04588) Abbreviated notes of the Eltham War Memorial Trust, Harry Gilham, February 1997 Notes prepared by Harry Gilham pertaining to draft Eltham Major Activity Structure Plan, 2004 referencing Memorial Hall Site Title (p45), EGAG on heritage (p73) and Design Guidelines (p73) Copy of Certificate of Title issued to Eltham War Memorial Trust Ordinary Meeting of Council Agenda, 15 September 2004, p55 with notes on vote for motion that any reference to the sale of the War Memorial be removed Letter from Cr Tony Raunic, Mayor to Harry Gilham regarding Eltham Major Activity Centre Structure Plan advising the removal of any reference to sale of the War Memorial and detailed consultation to be held with stakeholders regarding the former Shire of Eltham Office site; 8 October 2004 Copy of fax sent by John Cohen, OAM, JP to Diamond Valley News, re his support for the appeal for protection of the Eltham War Memorial 3 July 2004 Copy of letter sent by John Cohen, OAM, JP to the CEO, RSL Victoria requesting their opposition to sale of the Eltham War Memorial, 19 August 2004 Copy of letter sent by John Cohen, OAM, JP to Brigadier J.R. Deighton, State Secretary, Victorian RSL re his comments in Diamond Valley Leader regarding the Eltham War Memorial, 27 August 2004 Copy of letter sent by John Cohen, OAM, JP to Brigadier J.R. Deighton, State Secretary, Victorian RSL advising the War Memorial had been removed from the wider proposal of the Eltham Activity Centre, 16 September 2004 Fax from Catherine Dale, CEO, Nillumbik Shire Council to John Cohen re Renovation and Maintenance of Victorian War Memorials, 6 October 2004 Letter from Barry Rosewall, President, Eltham RSL to John Cohen advising the sub-branch strongly opposes the sale of the Eltham War Memorial, 20 October 2004 Fax from Bill Forrest, Interim CEO, Nillumbik Shire Council to John Cohen re Renovation adn Maintenance of Victorian War Memorials, 8 November 2004 Copy of letter from John Cohen to Bill Forrest, Interim CEO, Nillumbik Shire Council re Maintenance of Eltham War Memorial, November 2004 Handwritten notes prepared by Harry Gilham in preparation of presentation to Council pertaining to draft Eltham Major Activity Structure Plan, 2004 Letter from Eric Mack to the Hon. Steve Herbert,, Member for Eltham regarding draft Major Activity Centre Structure Plan, 22 June 2004 Letter from Eric Mack to Nillumbik Shire Council CEO and Councillors regarding draft Major Activity Centre Structure Plan, 2004 Reply to Eric Mack from the Hon. Steve Herbert, Member for Eltham regarding his letter of 22 June, 27 July, 2004 Copy of letter from John Cohen to President and Exectuive of the Eltham RSL regarding the Eltham War Memorial, 16 July 2004 Notice issued by Cr Greg Johnson of 11 August meeting by Council's Policy and Services Committee to consider a proposal to sell the Eltham War memorial and old shire office properties, 6 August 2004 Letter from Harry Gilham, President, Eltham District Historical Society to Diamond Valley Leader wishing to correct a historical inaccuarcy being circulated in the Draft Structure Plan for the Elham Major Activity Centre, 17 June 2004 Newspaper clipping - Protect war memorial, Harry Gilham, President, Eltham District Horical Society; Letter, Diamond Valley Leader, June 30, 2004, p16 Newspaper clipping - Sell-off a betrayal of trust, Ken Eckersall; Letters, Diamond Valley Leader, c.2004 Newspaper clipping - Don't insult memory of fallen servicemen, John Cohen; Letters, Diamond Valley Leader, c.2004 Newspaper clipping - Up in arms against sell-off, Dave Crosswaite, Diamond Valley Leader, July 14, 2004, p5 (War veterans and local historians call upon Nillumbik Council to reject moves to sell Eltham War memorial buildings to a private developer. Features a picture of John Cohen, Harry Gilham and Dr Ken Eckersall. On same page - "First Aboriginal mural by trust opens" by Dave Crossthwaite about a mural celebrating stories and culture of the Wurundjeri people being unveiled at the YMCA-run Eltham Leisure Centre.) Newspaper clipping - Shire plan 'sacrilegious' by Dave Crossthwaite, Diamond Valley Leader, Wednesday, August 19, 2004, p1 (Residents fight war memorial sale) Newspaper clipping - Our say on sale of land; Have you say, Diamond Valley Leader, August 18, 2004, p22 Newspaper clipping - School hall is not ratepayers' worry; Have your Say, Diamond Valley Leader, August 18, 2004, p23 Newspaper clipping - Clash over land sale by Dave Crossthwaite, Diamond Valley Leader, August 25, 2004, p1 Newspaper clipping - Mayor beset over arts agenda claim by Dave Crossthwaite, Diamond Valley Leader, August 25, 2004, p5 Newspaper clipping - Public assets are not for sale; Letters, Diamond Valley Leader, August 25, 2004, p11 Newspaper clipping - A lot of work has gone into shire structure plan; Letters, Diamond Valley Leader, August 25, 2004, p10 Newspaper clipping - Don't let a dream stay hijacked; Letters, Diamond Valley Leader, September 1, 2004, p11 Newspaper clipping - Future of memorial site on hold until poll by Caroline Gonzalez, Diamond Valley Leader, September 20, 2004 Newspaper clipping - Troops enlist for campaign by Fiona Willan, Diamond Valley Leader, 18 July 200751 pages of various types, A4, printed, handwritten notes, letters and newspaper clippingscr. greg johnson, diamond valley leader, eltham district historical society, eltham leisure centre, eltham major activity structure plan, eltham rsl sub-branch, eltham war memorial, eric mack, harry gilham, john cohen, ken eckersall, letters, nillumbik shire council, protests, steve herbert mp, wurrundjeri -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Shire of Eltham Centenary Dinner, 6 Apr 1971
Cr. G. C. Dreverman presenting a silver centenary medal to His Excellency Major General Sir Rohan Delacombe, Governor of Victoria at the Shire of Eltham Centenary Dinner in 1971. The event was held in the West Riding Hall, Petrie Park Community Centre, Montmorency. This photo forms part of a collection of photographs gathered by the Shire of Eltham for their centenary project book, "Pioneers and Painters: 100 years of the Shire of Eltham" by Alan Marshall (1971). The collection of over 500 images is held in partnership between Eltham District Historical Society and Yarra Plenty Regional Library (Eltham Library) and is now formally known as 'The Shire of Eltham Pioneers Photograph Collection.' It is significant in being the first community sourced collection representing the places and people of the Shire's first one hundred years.Digital imagesepp, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, shire of eltham, shire of eltham centenary, official dinner, centenary celebrations, cr. g.c. dreverman, sir rohan delacombe -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Shire of Eltham Centenary Dinner, 6 Apr 1971
His Excellency Major General Sir Rohan Delacombe, Governor of Victoria at the Shire of Eltham Centenary Dinner in 1971 with Cr. G. C. Dreverman, Cr Glover and Mrs Glover. The Premier, Mr Hamer can be seen in the background. The event was held in the West Riding Hall, Petrie Park Community Centre, Montmorency. This photo forms part of a collection of photographs gathered by the Shire of Eltham for their centenary project book, "Pioneers and Painters: 100 years of the Shire of Eltham" by Alan Marshall (1971). The collection of over 500 images is held in partnership between Eltham District Historical Society and Yarra Plenty Regional Library (Eltham Library) and is now formally known as 'The Shire of Eltham Pioneers Photograph Collection.' It is significant in being the first community sourced collection representing the places and people of the Shire's first one hundred years.Digital imagesepp, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, shire of eltham, shire of eltham centenary, official dinner, centenary celebrations, cr. g.c. dreverman, sir rohan delacombe, cr. glover, mrs. glover -
Otway Districts Historical Society
Photograph, Brucker, Pile Siding: horse-drawn timber tram, c.1920
Pile Siding was opened in December 1915 because of the Pettit Brothers sawmill and pile extraction operation. The siding was a spur with points facing Beech Forest with a timber tramway feeding the siding. During 1916/17 Pettit's sent away 5,000 tonnes of timber before moving to another site, after which loading dropped to insignificant proportions. Pettit's again occupied the site from 1924 and traffic rose to major levels again.B/W. A six horse-drawn timber tram at Pile Siding station in c.1920. Two timber workers are seated at the centre. Stacks of timber are awaiting collection. Note the bare tree trunks in the background. pile siding; weeaproinah; railways; tramways; -
Port Melbourne Historical & Preservation Society
Document - Swallow and Ariell, Centenary Ball, 1954
Four pages of photographs and descriptions of Swallow's Centenary Ball."1954" written in ballpoint on frontarts and entertainment, celebrations fetes and exhibitions, swallow & ariell ltd, charles alfred melbourne derham, mrs g a derham, major general f p derham, stanley gadsden, mrs gadsdens, s l thrum, w scott, c wickham, g peddle, mrs thrum, mrs wickham, miss scott, mrs peddie, bill streeter, george perrett, percy stafford, elspeth gaywood, ernie prowse, john smith, stewart wallach, dorothy holmes, bill hayes -
Port Melbourne Historical & Preservation Society
Photograph - Bay Street shops, Charles Nettleton, 1890s
This photograph was taken by Charles NETTLETON (1826-1902), a prominent Melbourne photographer who recorded the city’s rapid growth from a small town into a metropolis. He was the special photographer for the government and the Melbourne Corporation, and documented of the built environment and major public works throughout Melbourne from when he arrived to Victoria in 1854. Nettleton is credited for having photographed the first Australian steam train, the Melbourne-Sandridge (Port Melbourne) line, which opened in 12 September 1854; the first cricket team to come to Australia on the ss Great Britain in 1861; and Ned KELLY while Nettleton worked as a police photographer.Bay Street shops, 1875:- original Charles NETTLETON print showing west side of Bay Street: Collings & Son, Butcher; Cranston, Paperhanger; Mrs T CLAY; Johnny ALLSORT's Pawn Office; H. DAVENPORT, Clothing; G. RANSOM, Hardware; A.E. AITKEN, Auctioneer; Mrs A. BROWN, Haberdashery; F.C. FORSTER; Marshal, Printer; John PARRY (or BARRY), General Store; E & M RICE. The house is on the site of the 1912 Post Officebuilt environment - commercial, charles nettleton, theresa clay, collings & son, cranston, h davenport, g ransom, alexander ebling aitken, mrs a brown, john parry, john barry, e & m rice, f c forster, johnny allsorts pawnbroker -
Geoffrey Kaye Museum of Anaesthetic History
Laryngoscope, Flagg, circa 1915
Designed by Dr Paluel Flagg around 1915 and later used for 25 years. This laryngoscope blade was designed to meet certain expectations about laryngeal richness and to avoid major tracheal injuries in patients. (Ball, 2014) Article reference: C. M. Ball & R. N. Westhorpe. 2014. Anaesthesia & Intensive Care. Nov 2014, Vol. 42 Issue 6, p687-688. 2p.Complete laryngoscope used by Dr Lennard Travers. Medium sized Flagg straight blade with a slight curve at the distal end and a 'U' shape canal. The handle has a serrated grip for easy use and it is also a container for two batteries, it has a switch on its base. The full piece has visible and deep scratches over the top of blade around the stamped blade type inscription. The base of the blade has a worn surface with a slight discolouration due its use. No presence of led light bulb on blade. Minor scratches on handle base battery deposit with an ON - OFF switch black button. Stamped on blade, FLAGG LARYNGOSCOPE Stamped on top handle blade base, AUBURN, [W/A seal], N.Y.U.S.A. Stamped on the handle base power source button, ON [red colour], OFF [blue colour]flagg, laryngoscope, flagg blade, button, battery handle, straight blade -
Geoffrey Kaye Museum of Anaesthetic History
Blade, Laryngoscope, Flagg, circa 1915
Designed by Dr Paluel Flagg around 1915 and later used for 25 years. This laryngoscope blade was designed to meet certain expectations about laryngeal richness and to avoid major tracheal injuries in patients. (Ball, 2014) Article reference: C. M. Ball & R. N. Westhorpe. 2014. Anaesthesia & Intensive Care. Nov 2014, Vol. 42 Issue 6, p687-688. 2p.Small sized Flagg straight blade with a slight curve at the distal end and a 'U' shape canal with light bulb attached. The piece has a general excellent condition and brightness over its surface. The laryngoscope blade type is stamped on top of the blade and the manufacturer seal is located at the base back side of the blade. Stamped on top of the blade, FLAGG LARYNGOSCOPE Stamped seal at the base back side, W/A [inside a triangle shape]flagg, light bulb, straight blade, welch allyn company (wa) -
Geoffrey Kaye Museum of Anaesthetic History
Handle, Flagg, circa 1915
Designed by Dr Paluel Flagg around 1915 and later used for 25 years. This laryngoscope was designed to meet certain expectations about laryngeal access and to avoid major tracheal injuries in patients (Ball, 2014). Article reference: C. M. Ball & R. N. Westhorpe. 2014. Anaesthesia & Intensive Care. Nov 2014, Vol. 42 Issue 6, p687-688. 2p.Flagg laryngoscope handle only. The handle has a serrated grip for easy use; it is also a container for two batteries and has a switch on its base with an ON - OFF switch black button which quite rusty. The handle has a screw on top of it, used to secure the blade. The full piece has minor scratches over its surface. It has a small crack in the switch area and a missing screw bellows it. The handle has an inscription about the manufacturer company seal and name stamped at the top of the handle ring.Stamped on top handle blade base, AUBURN, [W/A seal], N.Y.U.S.A. Stamped on the handle base power source button, ON [red colour], OFF [blue colour]flagg, handle, switch, laryngoscope -
Moorabbin Air Museum
Manual (Item) - Major Overhaul Instructions Hydraulic System Components T.P. 110/174
Description: EMB-110K1 EMB-110P1 EMB-110P2 Publisher: Embraer Level of Importance: World. Author: A. C. Walshaw