Showing 177 items
matching drinking water
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Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Document - Certificate, The Eltham Barrel Beer Drinking Contest: Awarded to Rex "Young Pommy" Whitworth, 19 July 1974
The Eltham Beer Barrel Drinking Contest This is to certify that Rex "Young Pommy" Whitworth Has successfully downed 10 Grogs, and is still standing to sign this certificate! Signed R. Whitworth Dated this eventful 19th day of July 1974 Manager (signature illegible) Rex, a carpenter, was registered to vote in 1963 and was recorded as living in Storey Avenue, Research. He was still living at the same address in 1980. Given Rex had to be at least 21 years of age in 1963 (to be eligible to vote), that would make him at least 32 in 1974.Rex "Young Pommy" Whitworth signature, date and signature of Managereltham barrel, rex whitworth, certificate, beer drinking contest, award -
Donald History and Natural History Group operating the Donald Court House Museum
Aerated Water Bottle
Mr W. H. (Billy) Lewis manufactured soft drinks and cordials of many types in his factory in Woods street south, Donald. An energetic man, Mr. Lewis built up a big business, and supplied surrounding towns and districts as well as shops and customers in the Donald and Watchem areas. In the later stages of operation he was assisted by his son Alf, who died in May, 1952. Mr. W. H. Lewis died in June, 1924. The patronage accorded to the Lewis products enabled Mr Lewis to keep the factory in full production for many years.Aqua codd-neck glass bottle. Four round indents above two neck side crimps. W. H. LEWIS DONALD moulded lengthwise on front. LEMONADE moulded horizontally on back. "M" moulded on base. Glass marble and rubber washer inside. Some inner stain. -
Coal Creek Community Park & Museum
Punch
Yellow Bordered Label with white and Black writing, Seems to be falling off Green SealA.G johnston Limited Aerated Water Cordial Manufcatures Punch Preservatised - this drink contains not more than 2 grains sulphur Dioxide to the Pint Trade Mark -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Negative - Photograph, Eltham, Main Road near station, c.1910
View looking north along Main Road, Eltham from near present day Dudley Street. On the immediate left is the railway station. The large weatherboard building on the bend (opposite present-day Arthur Street) with signs for General Store, Refreshments and Summer Drinks painted on the side is Luther and Ada Haley’s General Store and Bakery, built 1902. This was the first building in what is now Eltham’s present shopping town centre. Haley previously ran the General Store and Bakery on the corner of Main Road and York Street until his lease expired and the premises were bought by Mrs Sarah Burgoyne in 1902. The store later was known as Staff's Store. Followed by the saleyards, entrance to station, slaughter yard and William J Capewell’s butcher shop. Contained within the saleyards facing the street, a small shelter with the name H.H. Clark upon it. Horace Harold Clark was the son of Eltham State School’s first Head Teacher, David George Clark. As well as being a farmer, he was an Estate Agent and conducted auction sales, presumably from this shelter. On the eastern (right) side of Main Street is Haley’s Paddock, which was used on occasions for community picnics. Capable of holding 10,000 people, with ample shade and hilly surroundings it was an ideal place for any community gathering such as the State Schools’ Picnic in 1904. A worker from the bakery store is standing in the gateway at the rear of the store observing the photographer. People in the ‘Sunday Best’ are milling in front of the bakery or strolling down the centre of Main Road. The picture was most likely taken on a Sunday. With the opening of the railway to Eltham in 1902, Melbourne residents would regularly enjoy a Sunday excursion journey on the train to Eltham for a day’s outing to the countryside or beyond to Hurstbridge from 1912 when the railway was extended. Picture dated as c.1910 based on similar picture published in the Weekly Times, Feb. 1912. Cross Ref: 609 (looking south), 612, 611 (later stage), 613.Negative black and white film 120 6x9 format 2 stripsAgfa APX 100baker, butcher, eltham, eltham railway station, eltham sale yards, eltham slaughter yard, eltham town centre, general store, haley's paddock, hot water, luther haley, luther haley general store, m.m. clark, main road, railway station, shire of eltham pioneers photograph collection, shops, sign, staffs general store, summer drinks, w.j. capewell -
Stanley Athenaeum & Public Room
Photograph, Picnic Group at Stanley
Taken at Stanley about 1900 in a local bush setting. There are 3 sets of couples, 2 men and 4 women. Picnics were a popular pastime, the group are drinking tea, there is the basket, the billy to boil the water, kettle and cups and saucers for a cup of tea This is representative of the leisure activities enjoyed by of people in Stanley around 1900Black and white photograph AW in lower right cornerstanley landscape leisure picnic -
Hymettus Cottage & Garden
Article - Drinks Set, Water Jug and Glasses
... goldfields Drinks Set Article Water Jug and Glasses ... -
Melton City Libraries
Photograph, Frederick and Martha Myers wedding day, 1908
... developed she began to water down his drinks while serving full... she began to water down his drinks while serving full strength ...Frederick and Martha were married on the 30th April 1908. Martha (Mattie) Mary (Watson) MYERS, b. 11 Oct 1888, d. 23 Mar 1976 and Frederick Thomas MYERS, b. 20 Jan 1877, d. 30 Apr 1963. Frederick was the son of Henri MIERS and Ann DOWLING. Frederick worked as a labourer, road builder and sheep shearer all his life. He often worked away and travelled long distances by bike with his swag. He travelled into the Riverina shearing at many of the well known sheep stations. In 1907 he met Martha Mary Watson. She came to the Golden Fleece Hotel to work for the Shebler family. Mr Shebler was getting older and support was needed in the running of the hotel. Mattie was born in 1888 in Ballarat. She had a firm dislike for alcohol. She had experienced the ill effects of the excesses of alcohol with her Grandmother Watson. They lived at 1 Burnbank Street Ballarat and drink was close by and easily obtained. While serving drinks at the Golden Fleece she got to know Fred, in time as the friendship developed she began to water down his drinks while serving full strength to his mates. Fred and Martha were married in 1908 and she moved into the Myers family home. Martha had a life long aversion to the excessive use of alcohol forbidding it in the household. Martha lived in the family home naming it Burnbank after the street in Ballarat where she spent her childhood where she lived with her grandmother Robina Watson, her mother was Robina (Ruby Watson). They lived a No 1 Burnbank Street Ballarat. Her grandfather was John Smith Watson. His early address was Macarthur Street just opposite the Burnbank street house. John was a member of the Ballarat City Fire Brigade. John died at the Macarthur Street home in 1895. The death certificate gives the ages of the children as Robina 26, Adam Arthur 22 and Alex 18 years.Wedding was in Fitzroy, Victorialocal identities, pioneer families -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Souvenir - MEGAMILE WATER BOTTLE, circa 2003
The area between Springvale Road and Blackburn Road (along Whitehorse Road) Nunawading is defined as the 'Megamile. Well known for it's Homemaker stores.'Plastic water bottle inscribed with the words 'The Whitehorse Mega Mile Fun Run 2003'.domestic items, food & drink consumption -
Sunbury Family History and Heritage Society Inc.
Photograph, c1900s
... was instrumental in Sunbury gaining a permanent water supply. A drinking... was instrumental in Sunbury gaining a permanent water supply. A drinking ...The man photograph in a garden is Joseph David Starkie, who was a Bulla Shire councillor for more than twenty years and during that time he was elected Shire President four times. He was also a member of the Sunbury Waterworks Trust and served as the chairman from 1905 - 1908. While serving on the water board he was instrumental in Sunbury gaining a permanent water supply. A drinking fountain has been erected on a reserve at the Village Green to honour the arrival of the permanent water supply to the town. The installation of a permanent water supply benefitted the town and contributed to a more reliable rail service as steam trains refilled their tanks with water at Sunbury Station. Prior to this the water was transported by horse and cart from nearby Jacksons Creek.A sepia photograph of a well-dressed man who is holding a book and is standing in a front garden of a weatherboard house.starkie, joseph daniel. -
Sunbury Family History and Heritage Society Inc.
Photograph, C1916
Joseph Starkie was the Chairman of the Sunbury Waterworks Trust from 1905 to 1913. During that time he was instrumental in getting a permanent water supply installed for the town of Sunbury. After his death in April 1913, the townspeople erected a memorial which stood at the intersection of Brook and Stawell Street. It was unveiled on 26 January 1915 by Terence O'Brien. The original memorial included a drinking fountain and horse trough. As traffic increased within the town, the centre section of the fountain, without the horse trough, was resited in a reserve opposite the Memorial Hall. The photograph shows the monument on its original site. The installation of a reliable and permanent water supply for Sunbury was an important achievement for the town in the early years of the twentieth century.A sepia photograph in post card format of a water fountain and trough in a street in front of an avenue of trees.J. D. STARKIE MEMORIALstarkie, joseph daniel., water fountain, j.d.starkie memorial -
City of Ballarat Libraries
Photograph - Card Box Photographs, E. Rowlands Pty Ltd Soft Drink Factory 1916. From Citizens & Sports publication
The factory was situated at the corner of Dana and Doveton Streets. Huge advertising for Rowlands and Koomah Spa natural mineral water from Mt Kosciusko. e.r. rowlands, e.r. rowlands aerated waters, koomah spa, building, manufacturing, vehicle, dana street, doveton street south -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Stawell Historical Society Inc
Container - Realia, Gray's Aerated Water, Stawell (Logo)
Local Soft Drink Manufacturer Clear Glass BottleThis bottle is the property of T. Gray Stawell and cannot be legally be used by others -
Melbourne Legacy
Slide, Operation Float 1957, 1957
A colour slide of children getting soft drinks from an ice filled Coca-Cola tub from a legatee at an outing in 1957. It was Operation Float which was an event run by Melbourne Legacy to take Junior legatees on a boat outing. It could have been to naval boats such as HMAS Cerberus or to a Yacht club. It gave the junior legatees the opportunity to see a naval boat in action, spend time on the water or try sailing. In 1957 it appears to be several smaller boats taking small groups of children out on the bay. Was with many other slides taken in the 1950s and 1960s. The slides have been photographed to make digital images and moved to archive quality sleeves. In many cases the original images were not well focussed and the digital image the best available.A record of outings being organised for children.Colour slide of children being given drinks in a red edged Kodachrome cardboard mount.Printed on reverse in red ink 'Kodachrome Transparency / Processed by Kodak'. Handwritten in blue ink 'Have a Koke 12'. Imprinted in black ink '4'operation float, junior legatee outings -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Rutherglen Historical Society
Image, Alf L. Bowden, The Studio
Water fountain monument built to the memory of the brothers and sisters of Roy Ready. The Ready family were an early pioneering family of the district. Roy Ready was the undertaker for some years.Black and white photograph of a monument with water fountain, memorial plaque, and weather vane on topOn back of photo: "With R. Ready's complements. W.J. Williams"monument, memorial, ready family, drinking fountains -
Rutherglen Historical Society
Soda siphon, D. Fevre
... Soda water Drink accessories D. Fevre ...For making and dispensing soda waterHeavy glass hour-glass shaped container, silver frosted, lattice wire cover. Siphon top missing, metal lipped.Around neck: "Veritable Seltzogene D. Fevre / Paris" "5" / "Fevre / Marque Depos�e"soda water, drink accessories -
Ringwood RSL Sub-Branch
Equipment - WW2 German Water Bottle, With drinking cap and holder
... melbourne WW2 German Water Bottle Equipment With drinking cap ... -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Bovril cup, c. 1950
... or stirred in hot water for a hot drink. It was developed in Britain... used in cooking or stirred in hot water for a hot drink ...This cup has been produced as a promotional item by the makers of Bovril, a meat extract paste usually used in cooking or stirred in hot water for a hot drink. It was developed in Britain in the 1870s and widely used during the depression of the 1930s and the World Wars when meat was scarce and expensive. Similar products such as Marmite (Britain) and Vegemite (Australia) have a vegetable rather than a meat base. This item is a memento of the times past when hot drinks made from meat or vegetable paste were very popular and it is retained for display purposes.This is a cream-coloured china cup with gold edgings and three gold-coloured Bovril logos (the name 'Bovril' inside a shield outline). The cup is mounted on a china base. Bovril Made in Englandmeat extract products, bovril, vintage china, bovril cup -
National Wool Museum
Textile - Cloak, Dr Deanne Gilson, Banksia Tree Cloak (water and fire business), 2022
Standing proud, still here, the spirit of ten ancestral matriarchs adorned in contemporary ceremonial cloaks. Representing our women past, present and future, her Spirit, our culture, our Country (spelt with a capital for its importance and this is part of First Peoples protocols on acknowledging Country, our strength, our resilience and healing towards a sustainable future).The sacred banksia tree was a favourite for Wadawurrung people. Flowering before deep Winter, the banksia was used for spear making and other wooden tools. The sap was drunk as a sweet drink and the seed pods used for water straining and fire sticks. The banksia tree flowers at the time when fire sticks farming is practiced marking the days before the coldest days and nights and the hotter days.White, orange, and yellow banksia design on outer cloak, yellow and white circle and diamond design in lining. Solid black trimming. Cloak is machine sewn and handstitched with hand stitching on shoulder seam.deanne gilson, wadawurrung dja, first nations art, cloak -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Functional object - Beehive Smoker c. early 1900s
Beehive smokers douse bees with smoke to calm them and make them less likely to sting while honey is extracted from beehives. They were invented in the mid nineteenth century, prior to which bees were killed in order to extract their honey. The invention of the bee smoker was an important innovation in the history of apiary. The Wodonga Historical Society beehive smoker appears to be of the same design as the patented Woodman’s Bingham Bee Smoker, produced from 1878 by T. F. Binghan of Albronia, Michigan. The Wodonga Historical Society beehive smoker is an important artefact connected to local history, and the history of apiary in Wodonga. Beekeeping was a popular pastime in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, and apiaries were subject to regulation by the Wodonga Shire Council. At a 1914 meeting of the council, for instance, a by-law governing beekeeping in Wodonga was enacted after Mrs Smyth complained that Mr Bassett’s bees were swarming the watering holes in her paddocks and preventing livestock from drinking. There were areas within the Wodonga township where apiaries were prohibited, and Mr Bassett’s bees had fallen foul of the law. A canvas, wood and metal beesmoker from the early twentieth century. apiary, bees, beekeeping, honey, apiarists, wodonga, council, wodonga council, wodonga shire council, rural, livestock -
Glenelg Shire Council Cultural Collection
Postcard, n.d
Black and white photo postcard, ship loading wheat. Deep Water Pier, Portland, 'Crecaldy'. Railway trucks, small shed near ship, numerous bicycles, several men, stall selling soft drinksFront: 'SHIPPING WHEAT, DEEP WATER PIER PORTLAND VICTORIA, TOYE PHOTO' - in white print, lower edge of postcardport of portland, industry, maritime -
Glenelg Shire Council Cultural Collection
Functional object - Bottle Label, n.d
... of mixed fruits. Black, white print. cordial aerated water soft ...Bottle label, Portland Aerated Waters, ½ and ½ fruit juice cordial. Red, blue, yellow label, circle with lighthouse, garland of mixed fruits. Black, white print.cordial, aerated water, soft drink, industry, food and drink -
Glenelg Shire Council Cultural Collection
Souvenir - Plastic drinking cup, Skiff Welmaid, n.d
Plastic glass, black image of cartoon 'water creature'. Black lettering. Measurements 9cm high x Diameter top: 5.9cm x Bottom 4.3cmFront: 'Glenelg Hopkins Waterwatch' Back: Base - '170ml SKIFF WELMAID 02 95670571 -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Domestic object - Earthenware Bottles - S. Mason Wodonga, c1870
This bottle was used as a form of advertising for the Wodonga Business of Samuel Mason. Samuel Mason was born at Bethnal Green, a suburb of London in 1824. He came to Australia via California, landing in Sydney in 1847. After a return to the California goldfields Samuel returned to Australia, arriving in Albury, NSW in 1855. He opened a bakery in Albury, and also commenced the manufacture of ginger beer for which he gained a reputation across Australia. Mr Mason continued in business in Albury for some time, but he established himself in Wodonga c1857, continuing a branch business in Albury. Twice a month in the early days Mr Mason walked to Beechworth for the purpose of transacting business. Occasionally he was summoned to attend the Beechworth courts as a juror. In 1901 Mr Mason retired from business, handing over the reins to his only son, Mr Samuel Mason Jr. who continued the aerated water business for some years. In about 1920 the business changed hands, being take over by E. Bartel. Samuel Mason Sr. died on 6 April 1908 and is buried in Wodonga. Mr. Mason Jr. was a prominent townsman. For some years he was a councillor of the Town Riding of the Wodonga Shire Council. He was also the first chairman of the Wodonga Water Trust in 1908. Samuel Mason Jr. moved to Melbourne in March 1920, primarily due to failing health. He died on 6 February 1929 and was interred in Melbourne.This bottle has strong local significance as it is representative of one of the earliest businesses established in Wodonga in the 1850s which operated until c1920. The business continued after 1920 under different ownership and names.2 earthenware pottery bottles manufactured by Bendigo Pottery and imprinted with the business brand of S. Mason, Wodonga. One bottle still contains a marble as part of the Codd sealing system to prevent gas from the ginger beer seeping out and the drink going flat. The bottles Within two elliptical circles are painted (in freehand) "S. MASON" in the top half and "WODONGA" in the bottom half. These are separated by an asterisk on both sides. A large "S" overlaid by a similarly large "M" is within the inner circle. 2nd bottle also includes "BREWED GINGER BEER" above the brand. At bottom of bottle 1 "PINNACLE BRAND" At bottom of bottle 2 in an oval shape: "THE BENDIGO POTTERY CO./ EPSOM/BENDIGO"s. mason wodonga, aerated drinks, bendigo pottery -
Merbein District Historical Society
Functional object - Water bag
... with water and hung on back of dip trailer for workers to drink water ...Filled with water and hung on back of dip trailer for workers to drink Hessian water bag Reliance 14water, merbein, fruit picking -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Water Carafe and Tumbler, 1850 -1900
Carafe believed to be of the mid to late Victorian era and used as a bedside water carafe however the tumbler is possibly not of the same era could be later. These sets were in fashion from the 1700s filled with water and used if the owner required a drink during the night. however the subject item would have been made after 1850 as glass etching started to be used on glass from around this period.The carafe is most likely a vintage example of a Victorian bedside water container and for that is significant. The item was made in England.Bedside water carafe, onion-shaped, with a glass tumbler. The hand-blown set is clear crystal glass with an acid-etched fern decoration on both pieces. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, carafe and tumbler set, blown glass carafe and tumbler, hand made glass, carafe, tumbler, bedside set -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Functional object - Ginger Ale Bottle, John Fletcher. Koroit Street, Warrnambool, c. 1930
This bottle was found in sea water while the donor was snorkelling in Stingray Bay, Warrnambool. It is a marble stopper bottle from the Warrnambool cordial factory of John Fletcher. Th bottle was filled upside down so that as soon as the filling ceased the marble was forced down to seal the bottle against a rubber ring (missing in this bottle). Pressure inside the bottle would keep the marble pressed against the top of the neck. To open the bottle the marble was pressed down so that it fell into the body of the bottle. John Fletcher as a young boy worked at Rowley's Cordial Factory in Banyan Street, Warrnambool. He then worked for John Davis who had established the Union Cordial Factory in Koroit Street in the 1860s. In 1885 John Fletcher bought Davis' business and operated it until 1930. It was then bought by Ralph Reeves. John Fletcher manufactured soda water, lemonade, tonic waters, ginger ale, sarsaparilla, cordials, hop beer and hop bitters.This bottle is of some interest as an example of a marble stopper bottle over 90 years old and as a memento of the Warrnambool soft drinks business of John Fletcher, a prominent businessman in Warrnambool for over 40 years.This is a clear glass bottle with a rounded body, a heavy indentation near the base of the neck and a thick tapering neck with a round opening. The bottle contains a green marble and some marine detritus. The bottle is discoloured with stains and dirt and has lettering etched into the side and base.John Fletcher Ginger Ale Warrnambool This bottle is the property of John Fletcher Warrnambool and cannot be legally used by others Gjohn fletcher warrnambool, cordial manufacturers in warrnambool