This doily was handmade by Penuel Cameron (nee Hossack). The Hossack family farmed land on the Marlo Road. Like the Camerons they were staunch Presbyterians. Robert Cameron was one of earliest settlers on Orbost flats and ran the paddlesteamer "Cheviot". He served many years on shire council and built the first Presbyterian. church in Orbost.This item is an example of a handcrafted item and reflects the needlework skills of women in the families of the early settlers.Hand tatted medium sized doily. Small round linen piece in centre and large tatted border.doily handcrafts needlework linen lace cameron-robert

Donated and presumably owned by Mrs Ivor ThompsonThis item has aesthetic value.A large piece of white coral within a glass display dome. The display sits on a round wooden base. ornament-coral

A round silver badge with four leaf-type attachments, with a cross in centre, sitting on a bar with coiled ends.education, school, morongo, geelong, girls, boarding, presbyterian, uniting, history, badges, private-girls-school, 1920-1994, kindergarten-year-12, sint-lucernae-ardentes, lucy shaw, gertrude pratt, dulcie brookshaw

During 1941-43 it was considered imminent that Japan's army may attempt to invade Australia. Anticipating Japanese air and submarine attacks, blackout restrictions were introduced and air raid warning instructions issued. This air-raid siren was installed on the roof of the G.P. Motors (originally Winchester & Rodwell Garage) during World War 2. This item reflect our past. World War II continues to evoke strong memories. Items which were part of this time are reminders of the local community's involvement.An air raid siren on a round base. It has a brass trumpet and a handle attached to pull from the ground.On base - MAX-DIA -422,15mm PLATE 10 HOLES J. WIPFLI GATIC AUSTRALIA MANUFACTURER DIES TOOLS PLASTICS MELBOURNEww11 air-raid-siren communications military

This knife was found in a drawer from the estate of Judy Walcott who died in 2016 in Orbost. The Dicken Bros, shop is in the main street of Orbost . Frank B. Dicken and his son, Selwyn, were General Merchants. Frank and May Dicken moved to Orbost in 1936 where Frank became manager of Pardew Brothers store in Nicholson Street. In 1945, Frank purchased the business and in 1947, formed a partnership with his son, Selwyn. The store was then called F.B. Dicken and Son. The premise are still retained by the Dicken family although the shop business was sold in 1981. (ref. In Times Gone By - Deborah Hall) This item is an example of an item produced for advertising and promotion. The Dicken General Merchandising business is no longer an Orbost feature.A bone handled butter knife with an inscription on one side of the blade. Handle is a cream bone with a rounded end. Stainless Steel Made in Sheffield Expressly fo F.B. Dicken & Son ORBOST

A round gold medal with the features of King George V1 and Queen Elizabeth and on the back is Victoria's "Coat of Arms".Along with the faces of King George V1 and Queen Elizabeth are the words "KING GEORGE V1 & QUEEN ELIZABETH", on the front of the medal, on the back is Victoria's "Coat of Arms", with the words "TO COMMEMORATE THEIR MAJESTIES CORONATION. MAY 12th 1937.

Purchased at a sale by Laurie Gunnulson and donated to the museum. Round wooden bowl with lid; small flat knob on lid. Remains of shaving soap inside the bowl.YARDLEY SHAVING SOAP, 35 Bond St, LONDON; Printed in England (paper label on lid); MADE IN ENGLAND (imprinted on base)

The Percy Uebergang family lived at Tooram Park, Allansford from 1912 until 1992. Percy and Myrtle Uebergang's children were twins, Ray and Joyce born in 1926 who lived at Tooram Park until their deaths, Ray in 1986 and Joyce in 1992. Neither Ray nor Joyce married and following the death of her brother Joyce set up the Ray and Joyce Uebergang Foundation which supports the local community. This milk jug is part of the collection of items given into the care of the Cheese World Museum. Uebergang catalogue No.H557 Tall white round china jug with a 'Blue Willow' pattern. The handle has a 'twisted rope' design.H557allansford, uebergang, jugs, food and drink consumption, containers, willow pattern

This cast iron weight was made in England by Jabez and John Whitehouse ironfounders of Tipton and who founded the company in 1848. J. Whitehouse owned and operated the Phoenix Foundry, in Castle Street, Tipton, Staffordshire, England. The Whitehouse family at the Phoenix Foundry produced cast-iron goods including this weight from the mid 1800s until the early 1900s. John Whitehouse died in 1893.An item made by one of the many ironfounders that operated foundries in the West Midlands of England giving a snapshot into the history of making cast iron objects at a time before plastics and other modern materials when most utilitarian items were made of cast iron by ironfounders.Weight, metal, 14 pound or 1 stone weight with a lifting handle. Three round indentations underneath."Whitehouse" inscribed at one end, "14" at the other flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, weight, stone weight, weights and measures, j & j whitehouse, phoenix foundry, tipton uk, cast iron weight

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

This doily is typical of items of household linen in popular use in the 19th and early-to-mid 20th centuries. It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered and crocheted articles to take to their new home. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families)This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework. Doily, square shape with rounded sides, crochet with inserted fabric, From the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collectionflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, doily, embroidery, needlework, crochet, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery

Wheel wooden light polished ship with 6 turned spokes & round brass centre with notched hole.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Cross/crucifix, wooden with circle around intersect. The vertical arm is elongated. The three tip point are rounded.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Wire in and out office tray used to hold papers from 1930s-1950sNone only as a curiosity for early office equipmentTray metal wire paper with curved section in front for hand space. On four round flat pads.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

This cast brass deck inspection cover with housing is made for the marine environment. Inspection plates have been incorporated into the ship's design since at least the late 19th century. Modern deck inspection posts have a similar design and can be made from stainless steel, aluminium or plastic. The deck inspection plate gives marine vessel owners and inspectors easy access to the areas below the deck to check for signs of damage, wear or corrosion. This mid-20th-century inspection plate with housing shows the importance of marine safety. Inspections on marine vessels today are still carried out via inspection ports made from modern materials. Inspection plate; a round brass marine inspection screw-out cover and housing with a slotted recess in the lid.warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, brass marine inspection plate, marine equipment, inspection housing, boat plate, inspection port, marine plate, deck plate, marine safety

James S Steele tool boxCaulking tool with rounded blade 164mmL x blade 57mmW. Marked C Whitehouse & Son Cannockflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Ring Auger, Double Twist - Lead Screw, round shaft tapering to square 74.5L. 4cm diamflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Screw Pencil - polished silver screw pencil with clip pocket attachment. Round barrel. Length 4¼"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Screw Pencil - polished silver screw pencil with clip pocket attachment. Round barrel. Length 5"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, screw pencil

Clothes brushes have been used since the 1700s for keeping clothing clean and presentable. This clothes brush is one of quality, being made from natural bristle and ebony.This clothes brush is representative of the equipment used to groom and clean garments in the 19th century and even into today.Clothes brush, ladies' item, rectangular with rounded corners. Blonde hair bristles and black ebony handle."REAL EBONY"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, clothes brush, personal effects, grooming, toiletries, personal item, clothes care

Bread Board, round with inner circle engraved and faint "BREAD" pressed into wood. Diam. 11�" or 290mm.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Valve Grinder Brace, metal with round wood top on handle. Brace has a long shaft with an attachment.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, valve grinder brace, brace

This cast brass deck inspection cover with housing is made for the marine environment. Inspection plates have been incorporated into the ship's design since at least the late 19th century. Modern deck inspection posts have a similar design and can be made from stainless steel, aluminium or plastic. The deck inspection plate gives marine vessel owners and inspectors easy access to the areas below the deck to check for signs of damage, wear or corrosion.This mid-20th-century inspection plate with housing shows the importance of marine safety. Inspections on marine vessels today are still carried out via inspection ports made from modern materials.Inspection plate; a round brass marine inspection screw-out cover and housing with a slotted recess in the lid.warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, brass marine inspection plate, marine equipment, inspection housing, boat plate, inspection port, marine plate, deck plate, marine safety

Photograph: Man and racing bike in front of cannon On Rear: Rik McCaig RIK Round-up deskrecreations, sports, cycling, bendigo advertiser

Round Hat Box containing a collection of lace womens wedding items. Box is approximately 400mm in diameter.

Pen Holder is Made of Clay, has 9 holes for pens Small Chip in the Side Is Painted RoundedMade in Japan

Ref: Searching for Nineteenth-Century Florida Water Bottles by Catherine Sullivan, p.88-9. 'New York City directories list Murray and Lanman, druggists, at 69 Water Street from 1835 to 1849; David T. Lanman, druggist, at 69 Water Street from 1836 to 1857; and Lanman and Kemp at 69 Water Street from 1858 to 1870, when they relocated to William Street (New-York Historical Society 1834-1873).'Tall aqua tinted clear glass bottle, round in section with embossed text on sides and numerals on baseEmbossed on base '24' (indistinct). On sides 'FLORIDA WATER, MURRAY & LANMAN DRUGGISTS NEW YORK'.florida water, druggist, wholesale.

Round clear glass bottle with stepped shoulder between body and neck of bottle. Text embossed on base.'COLGATE & CO W2 PERFUMERS 4 NEW YORK'

Reference: American Journal of Pharmacy, volume 1, page 162. "So rapid is the progress of this change, that it is seldom we meet with the article in our shops which is not more or less injured by it. The first sign of the loss of alkali, is the efflorescence on the surface, which gradually extends till the whole crystalline mass is altered. It is from this cause that we have so much difficulty in pleasing those who are particular about the quality of their "smelling salts." A preparation, called " the Preston smelling salts," has within a few years been introduced from England, and has deservedly been much sought after. The manufacturers have wisely put it up in very wide mouthed bottles, which enable one to inhale a much larger quantity of ammonia at once, and thus increase the apparent strength of the salt. But it has other qualities to recommend it, than the manner in which it is put up for sale. It retains its odour for a longer time and wastes more slowly than the common smelling salts. It was generally believed, when the article was first brought here, that its superiority was owing to the sublimation being made at once into the bottle, so as to avoid any loss of ammonia by unnecessary exposure to the air. An examination, however, will satisfy any one that the salt is crystallized and not sublimed. The superior compactness and hardness of a crystalline over a sublimed salt, are great advantages in so volatile a substance as the carbonate of ammonia; and to this, I have no doubt the good qualities of the Preston salts are to be attributed. The salt may be crystallized with great facility in the winter season".Round squat clear glass bottle, wide neck with rough cut top, embossed text on side.'PRESTON SALTS' on side.smelling salts, preston salts