Item from the Borough of Portland (1855-?)Iron seal with rectangular base oval insignia centred in cross-bar designFront: Borough of/Reg/No/Portland (in reverse) circular sealborough of portland, 1800s, seal, administration

Ansett Airlines of Australia 1972-1977Complements the collection of air flight crew attire.Orange bowler hat, with black stripe on band and around crown, lined in cream material. This hat comes with the round Ansett Delta - golden A shape on black enamel - insignia attached in front. Made by NIVEK HEADWARE. Reg. Melb. Donor: EDDY hostess, flight attendant, uniform, orange, 1972-1977, bowler, nivek headwear, stewardess, ansett, delta

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Grindley trio of cup saucer & plate, brightly coloured floral design with black bands, a note included reads this cup, saucer and plate belonged to Lydia Chancellor ''Taraxville'' Golden Square Vic.W.H.Grindley & Co Ltd Ivory England Reg No 714550domestic equipment, table setting, cups, lydia chancellor collection, collection

Member of the Geelong Amateur Cycling ClubBlack and white photograph of man with glasses holding a clipboard. Car in backgroundOn back in blue pen - 'Reg Holliday/Back/2wl"reg holliday

Collected by National Serviceman Pte D J Kerslake from the site of an ambush initiated by 1 RAR in 1968Olive green plastic with coloured filters stored in handle. The torch is modified in that the front red plastic filter has a star shape cut out of it to identify it as Viet Cong for night identification.MX 9914.0 Bright star, Trade mark reg.torch, flashlight, vietnam war, viet cong, north vietnamese, nth vietnamese, field torch

titled "Timetable of first and last trams and buses also All-night and Sunday morning services", setting out services, fares, city concession fares, all night fares, fare sections, and that strips of 2d and 3d tickets could be bought from conductors. Has a "advertisement" for shoppers travelling in comfort between 930 and 430, dinner and afternoon tea at the Wattle Park Chalet and Family excursion tickets to the Beaches and Wattle Park - 2/6. See Reg Item 1751 for an April 1951 version, 2140 for a 1935 version and 8209 for a March 1942 version. Yields information about MMTB tram and bus servicesTimetable printed on off white paper, folded into 9, Dated January 1946. Printed by Sands and McDougall - has their logo printed on the middle section of the outside fold. See Reg Item 1751 for an April 1951 version and 2140 for a 1935 version.trams, tramways, timetables, first tram, wattle park, fares, all night services

Tramcar record for SEC Ballarat No. 16, builder, system location, short history and work in Ballarat. Loose on the same folder was a typed sheet of paper dated 21-6-55, noting the SEC proposal for this tram, not intended to recondition it. See btm5526i1.jpg See Reg Item 5614 for a photo of the 21E truck after the body was sold and disposed of.Yields information about the history of individual tramcars in Ballarat.Handwritten note on foolscap lined sheet outlining the history of Ballarat Tramcar No. 16, who built for, date to Ballarat, painting and other changes to the tramcar as compiled by Wal Jack. Part of a series on each SEC Ballarat operated tramcar, except for the ESCo trams. Contained within Reg Item 5507 - Foolscap binder with green covers, black binding edge and metal clips. trams, tramways, ballarat, tramcars, tramcars of ballarat, tram 16

White cup (Jacksons Reg.643424 )Photo's printed around cup.of soldier and sailor ,2 pair of crossed flags.Words " Might in the right cause shall prevail." European War

Cpl A.L. Anderson Reg No 962picture, ww1, army

Royal Fusiliers "City ofLondon Reg."badge/buttons, ww1, army

Photo of Charley Taylor Reg No 1122photo, army

WW1Photo,black and white-head and shoulders-WW1,uniform,-slouch,hat-rising,suns,on,collarsno, william, thompson, reg, 1136

Original painting owned by Norm Appleby. Painting by Camp 13 POW. H.Hartmann.|Waranga Quarry.Norm Appleby, son of Lieut., Acting Captain Austin Appleby, 8th. Field Reg. & 5th. Aust. Anti-Aircraft Reg. 1945-1947,photograph, painting

Beginning in 2002 DViets conducted an annual lawn bowls 'çompetition' between National Servicemen and Regular soldiers; competition was lightly competitive and generally, the results were spread evenly between the two sides. Historical record of a social activity for members with a friendly rivalry between "Regs' and Nashos'.Perpetual Trophy for Nashos vs Regs for an Annual Challenge; first awarded 2002. Normally lawn bowls but in 2003, it was ten pin bowling. Rectangular in shape; dark polished timber with centre piece surrounded by a border of mini plates for winner each year.Centre piece comprises a Heading of "Diamond Valley Vietnam Veterans Regs Vs Nashos Challenge Shield" and a large VVAA logo; mini-plates border this text with engraving of the winners each year thereon. A border of mini-plates surround the centre piece with the names of winners each year engraved thereon. First presented 2002, Retired 2018.diamond valley vietnam veterans sub branch, social activities

This hat has the brand name or model, ‘The Solent’ which is the name of the strait that separates the Isle of Wight from mainland England. Boater hats such as these were mostly worn for informal occasions and were usually associated with sporting events such as boating and sailing, particularly in Britain. Hats of this type were also part of the school uniform of some Australian schools, usually prominent private schools with a British tradition, in the first half of the 20th century and there may be some schools still using the style today. This boater is of interest as an example of the informal head gear worn by men in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It will be useful for display.This is a cream straw boater hat with a flat circular crown and round brim. The straw is stiffened and plaited. There is a black material band ending with a black bow around the base of the crown. The hat has brown leather internal lining with a cream cord insert for altering the inside size of the hat. Inside the hat is a printed shield with the maker’s details and some gold ornamentation with printed material. The Criterion Brand Reg. No. 15094 The Solent Extra Quality Copyright. vintage headware, history of warrnambool

3 rectangular shaped black and white photographs mounted on A4 paperWill Taylor. Reg Tayler. Cyril Firth standing, seated unknown. world war one, infantry, ww1, lara r.s.l. army.

Daimler Wireless Patrol #12 with damage to rear right hand side, circa 1932No. 106 Daimler No 12 6 cylinder REG 114 - 427police vehicles; transport; motor police branch; daimler car; wireless patrol

Cream tea cup. Flutting around base. One chip at base. Ornamental handle.Clarice Cliff / Newport Pottery Co/ England Reg no 840076

The Kew Historical Society's postcard collection includes views of Kew, Melbourne and Greater Melbourne as well as those including overseas scenes sent or received from Europe or the Middle East. They date from the 1890s to the 2000s. These postcards may or may not include the name of the publisher or printer. A number of the cards were published as parts of popular series. A way of dating early postcards is to identify whether the reverse was divided by a central line which became the norm after 1902 in the United Kingdom. However, other postcards produced after this date do not always conform to this print layout.The item forms part of the Laurie Bennett collection of thirty-six postcards and photographs of Kew and early Melbourne, donated to the Kew Historical Society in 1980. The postcards in the Bennett collection, like other images in the Society's holdings date from the 1890s to the present and comprehensively indicate points-of-view or scenes considered historically, aesthetically or socially significant in the period in which they were produced.Postcard depicting Collins Street looking west from Spring Street. Reg-No-KH.392 (obsolete number). Donated by L. Bennettcollins street -- melbourne (vic.), postcards

This mixed set of clubs and bag was collected as an early example of golf equipment before the current trend of matched clubs and bag. This 9 iron was damaged; the head only has been archived.One of a mixed set of golf clubs held at HGC.Metal golf club head only.Inscription on head: "Milnecraft. Reg No 61910. Stainless. 9 iron."golf clubs, irons (golf), niblicks

This National Service registration card was issued to Glen Anthony (Tony) McKenzie, Service Number 3797419, who served in 1 Australian Reinforcement Unit 28 May 1970 until 25 Jun 1970, and 8th Battalion, The Royal Australian Regiment 26 Jun 1970 until 12 Nov 1970.Notification Card of selection for Service in National Ballot 17/3/69. Mr GA McKenzie, Box 46 Numurkah. Reg No. 21100882ballot card, ga mckenzie, national service, registration card

Paradise Estate layout also included in Land Sale Brochure Titled Eureka Plan Book - Seven Delightful & Valuable Ringwood Estates - circa 1925, Reg. No. 5100.Subdivision plan of Paradise Estate, Ringwood, showing allotments for sale, with typed page attached showing block sizes and prices.Locality plan showing land for sale south of Canterbury Road, 1 Mile south of Ringwood Railway Station. Subdivison includes Canterbury Road and Dandenong Road (later Wantirna Road). Surveyors - McKenzie Aisbett & Webber, surveyors & engineers, 440 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, Telephone Central 11540. Subdivision for Mr Grenwood at Ringwood. Additional typewritten price list showing footage, price per foot, and price per block for Lots No. 1 to 60. Paradise Estate layout also included in Land Sale Brochure Titled Eureka Plan Book - Seven Delightful & Valuable Ringwood Estates - circa 1925, Reg. No. 5100.

The encrusted rope probably used on rigging comes from the Falls of Halladale, a four-masted iron-hulled barque that was built in 1886 for the long-distance bulk carrier trade. The vessel was built for the Falls Line (Wright, Breakenridge & Co., Glasgow, Scotland) at the shipyard of Russell & Co., Greenock on the River Clyde, she was named after a waterfall on the Halladale River in the Caithness district of Scotland. The ship's design was advanced for her time, incorporating features that improved crew safety and efficiency such as elevated bridges to allow the crew to move between forward and aft in relative safety during heavy seas. The Falls of Halladale was the seventh vessel in a series of eight similar iron-hulled sailing ships, all built by Russell & Co and all named after waterfalls in Scotland. The Falls of Halladale was preceded by the Falls of Clyde (1878), the Falls of Bruar (1879), the Falls of Dee (1882), the Falls of Afton (1882), the Falls of Foyers (1883) and the Falls of Earn (1884). The Falls of Halladale was followed by a sister ship, the Falls of Garry (1886). The Falls of Clyde is afloat today and is a major attraction at the Hawaii Maritime Centre in Honolulu. The Falls of Halladale is best known for her spectacular demise in a shipwreck near Peterborough, Victoria on the shipwreck coast of Victoria, Australia. On the night of 14 November 1908, she was sailed in dense fog directly onto the rocks due to a navigational error. The crew of 29 abandoned ship safely and all made it ashore by boat, leaving the ship foundering with her sails set. For weeks after the wreck, large crowds gathered to view the ship as she gradually broke up and then sank in the shallow water. Soon after the accident the ship's master, Capt. David Wood Thomson was brought before a Court of Marine Inquiry in Melbourne and found guilty of a gross act of misconduct, having carelessly navigated the ship, having neglected to take proper soundings, and having failed to place the ship on a port tack before it became too late to avoid the shipwreck. Capt. Thomson's punishment included a small fine and he had his Certificate of Competency as a Master suspended for six months. Today the Falls of Halladale is a popular destination for recreational divers. The wreck is easily accessible by scuba divers about 300 m offshore in 3 to 15 m of water. The hull lies on its collapsed starboard side. Some of the original cargo of 56,763 roof slates remains at the site of the wreck along with corroded masses of what used to be coils of barbed wire. Twenty-two thousand slates were salvaged in the 1980s and used to provide roofing at the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village in Warrnambool. An anchor that was recovered in 1974 is on display at the village. The encrusted rope is significant as a salvaged item from the Victorian heritage-listed Falls of Halladale wreck. As an artifact from the wrecked ship, it helps us to remember today the story of the wrecking and is an important reminder of a marine incident in Victoria's maritime history.Piece of encrusted rope. Artifact Reg No FoH/1.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, falls of halladale, shipwreck peterborough, 1908 shipwreck, great clipper ships, russell & co., rope

WW1 Australian Reg Ensign Flag (Names Embroided)stawell, ww1