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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
At 38.8cm on its widest edge this delicate lace collar would sit nicely across the shoulders with the collar points extending approximately 10cm onto the bodice. It is a fine example of hand embroidered Limerick lace and the variety of stitches used is clear to see. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The darning and buttonhole stitches are quite obvious in this piece. According to the British lace historian, Pat Earnshaw, there was one Limerick lace collar that was decorated using 47 different filling stitches. In addition, needlerun forms were often combined with tamboured outlines to add further contrast.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand embroidered Limerick lace collar, with three straight edges trimmed with an oval motif, and a fourth semi-circular with simple reinforcement.Packaged with note: "Limerick Lace Collar"lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, collar, clothing, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar, Detachable
This detachable lace collar has been machine made and there was a note included with the piece to say “Dickie”. Perhaps calling it a lace collar is a misnomer. If it is indeed a dickey that would be a false front (e.g. the celluloid false tuxedo front for men) then the fabric would be at the bosom with the straight edge of the collar draped over it and perhaps the long pieces embellishing the sleeves. Dickeys made the transition to women’s wear in 1943 although they may have been worn by women before this time. The February issue of Vogue New York stated that one would “enliven your new suit or rejuvenate your old”. Women’s dickeys were made from cotton or rayon and embellished with embroidery, lace or ruffles. The lace itself is quite beautiful but the construction of the piece is quite confusing. Due to its ostensibly irregular and non-conformist shape, the members of the Lace Guild who examined this piece opined that it was made for a specific garment. This may have been an elegant jacket or blouse.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Detachable lace collar, with plain netting overlaid with multiple stripes with small floral motifs repeating at regular intervals. Packaged with note "Dickie"lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, detachable, collar, machine, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Two hand written notes, 1880s
The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Two notes written by Janet Amess: 1. Real Limeric Lace from Ireland. Valuable don't destroy 2. Grandmother about 1850 Third note; Written by my mother Janet Amess.Packaged with 2036 (0036)lace, churchill island, janet amess, lace collection, amess, farm -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Chemise, c 1850
This is an elegant chemise formerly owned by the grandmother of Mrs Janet Amess and dated approximately 1850. It is made of Limerick lace embroidered on to square net (which is now unprocurable) and it opens at the front. The chemise was an undergarment worn against the skin and underneath the corset therefore fine fabrics were favoured. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The Limerick lace industry began in the Irish city of Limerick and blossomed in the first Golden Age of Irish lace making (1820 – 1860) before the onset of the depression and the Potato Famine. The handwritten note included with this garment clearly illustrates their ongoing interest and the value that the Amess ladies placed upon the history of lace garments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Limerick lace, open at front. Square net.Packed with note"Real Limerick Lace undergarment" and two notes in Janet Amess' writing see 0036lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, square net, amess, garment, undergarment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Neck Piece
This fine lace neck piece has been applied to the neckline of a garment meeting at the front and was designed to lay flat . Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Neck piece with triangular scallopslace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, neck, piece, garment, clothing, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
This elegant lace collar with reinforced strips was made with machine net and Battenburg lace. It would have been temporarily applied or tucked in to the neckline of a garment to stand erect on the neck. Battenburg lace was popular in the United States in the 19th Century and was made by attaching inexpensive cotton strips on to net as an outline for the design. This type of lace was named after a wedding in the Battenburg family occurred at around the same time for which the patent was applied in Washington DCThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Lace Collar with reinforced strips. Machine net and Battenberg lace. lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, battenberg, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Fichu
This piece consists of Battenburg machine braid tacked onto net which has been hand appliquéd with lace motifs. The lace fichu was worn by ladies to enhance the neckline of garments and to preserve modesty. Many lace fichus were shaped in a large square which was folded in half and draped over the shoulders like a shawl. They were often held in place with a small fichu pin or tucked into the neckline of the dress or under the apron or skirt at the waistline. This small jabot-like example may have been tied at the neckline and tucked into the bodice. It could also have been used at the front of a skirt and tied at the waistline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Battenburg machine braid tacked on to net. Hand appliquéd lace motifslace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, neckband, garment, battenburg, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
A five petal machine made lace collar, this item would be attached to the neckline of a garment and appears to be designed to lay flat although a little starch applied could make it stand up like petals around the neck. The Folk Art style rose between two rosebuds design is simple and outlined in fine black thread as are the scalloped edges of each collar petal The design being embroidered on to net leads one to believe that this was made on a Cornely machine. The Cornely machine had a great impact on the embroidery industry. It developed from hand tambouring and contemporary inventions in the field of sewing machines and was the first single-needle embroidery machine. It was easy to use, could be used in the home or a small workroom and as the mechanism developed it became difficult to distinguish machine from hand sewn. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Cream lace collar with black edging. Rosette pattern and some scalloping around selvage edge. Machine made lacelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, garment, clothing, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Neckpiece, Small
Just 23cm in length, this lovely piece is an example of handmade Maltese silk lace. Maltese lace has an interesting history. It began as a needle lace which was developed in Genoa and in 1530 was brought to Malta and Gozo by the Knights who were sons of noble families in Europe. This was a time of great demand and lace was used in the clothing of men, women, children, and the clergy for its decorative element but also as a sign of wealth and status. In the mid 1800s Lady Hamilton Chichester sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta where they turned the old needle lace patterns to bobbin lace which was much faster. The art of lacemaking is still taught in Malta in evening classes, government trade schools for girls and at the School of the Arts. Maltese lace can be identified by the following characteristics: a) cream silk, b) 8-pointed Maltese cross worked in cloth stitch c) closely worked leaves or ‘wheat ears’ all of which occur in this pieceThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Handmade Maltese silk lace lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, neckpiece, clothing, garment, amess, maltese, silk, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - French Buttons, Crochet
These are handmade crocheted buttons on the original card which indicates that they are from France. French crochet buttons and Irish crochet motifs were learned by watching another person. Then the onlooker specialized in that button or motif repeating it many hundreds of times. These buttons could be used to fasten underwear, jackets or gloves among other things. Crochet developed as a craft from the early 1800s and this development was accelerated by the industrial revolution. Crochet hooks were made from metal, the use of cotton as a suitable and cheap crochet thread came into being after the invention of mercerization (1844); women learned to read leading to patterns being developed and the publication of women’s magazines such as Godeys Lady’s Book (1830), Harpers Bazaar (1867) and DMC Guide to Needlework (1886). Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Hand made French crochet buttons on original card crochet, lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, buttons, french, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This is a beautiful example of Irish crochet lace edging featuring the Clones knot which gives the picot appearance on the bars. Clones knots are made by twisting the crochet hook backwards and forwards many times and working into the same stitch then pulling a loop through and fastening it at the beginning of the knot. Irish crochet comes in many forms and at first glance this lace looks like a bobbin made torchon lace. It is very fine and the thread used is most likely a No. 60 cotton or finer. Being handmade this lace would have been quite expensive and the owner would have wanted it to be seen.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of handmade lace, with reinforced edges and a repeating, abstract motif reminiscent of buds.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This length of machine made lace could only be made on either the Raschel or the Leavers machine, however the Raschel only produced an hexagonal ground, therefore we must lean towards the Leavers machine. The pattern in the piece is a copy of a bobbin lace with a plaited octagonal ground. The Leavers machine could reproduce all sorts of grounds, it was very versatile and operated from the mid 19th century until the present day. This lace is quite fine and would look lovely as a trim on a fichu or mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of machine lace with repeating 'spoked wheel' designs, trimmed on one side with a scalloped edgechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This piece is a filet lace with a hand darned pattern on machine net and embroidered for ribbon to be threaded through the reverse to highlight the design. It is also known as beading lace which is most commonly used in lingerie. Filet lace is a form of decorative knotted netting and as such can be presumed to have derived from fishnet and is similarly made using a shuttle-needle and a gauge stick or rod although this one has been made on a machine. In 1812, the first net-making machine was invented and was in commercial use by 1820. There are pre-made nets available on the market today but there are different types of net, some made especially for filet. The hand darning would have been made by anchoring the netting and using a long blunt needle and thread. Wider pieces of filet with hand embroidery were commonly used to trim clerical vestments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Filet hand darned pattern on machine net in repeating noughts and crosses geometric motifs.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
A hand crocheted lace, this fine example could also be called a single galloon lace due to the scalloped edge. In lace making the word ‘galloon’ refers to a braid or lace with one or two scalloped edges. These trims were sometimes made of metallic thread and used to trim military uniforms and the word comes from the French “galonner” meaning ‘to trim with braid’. Owing to the structure of the outer edge it could also be referred to as beaded lace as there is space for fine ribbon to be threaded through the stitches. This length of hand crocheted lace would have been a delicate adornment for trimming a fichu or for lingerie and children’s clothing. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet ivory lace trim with a scalloped selvedge and even diagonal patternlace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, handmade, crotchet -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This lace appears to be a beautiful product of the Leavers lace making machine. It is Valenciennes in style which is a bobbin lace characterized by the diamond shaped net. Unlike comparable Mechlin lace it does not have a gimp thread outlining the pattern. Valenciennes lace originated in France but perhaps due to religious persecution later moved to Ypres in Belgium and was very popular in the 18th century. It was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace and was never used on expensive garments but reserved for bed linen, lingerie and the fichu. By the 19th century it was made by machine which made it cheaper and even more accessible.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lace with a floral design on a fine mesh background, and one scalloped edge.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This delicate lace is hand crocheted with fine scallops each adorned with three picots. The top of the lace has been made to take a fine ribbon trim threaded through making it come under the heading of the beaded laces. This lace is so fine that it would most likely be used on table linen, kerchiefs or baby’s clothes.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet length of lace trim with scalloped edge and three picots.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, crotchet, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This length of hand crochet lace has been made with a beaded edging which could have ribbon inserted and with treble and half treble stitches making half scallops which are reminiscent of a sea shell design. Although very fine, this could have been made by someone with very basic crochet skills and would most likely be used on table linen, underclothing and children’s clothes.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet length of lace trim with very delicate scalloped edge.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, crotchet, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Necklace
The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Beaded necklacebeading, beaded, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This narrow (3.3cm) piece may have been used to embellish the bodice or the waistline of a garment. Chemical lace is a late 19th century form of machine lace made by embroidering the lace pattern onto a sacrificial fabric which has been chemically treated to dissolve when immersed in a solution which will not harm the lace. However, the composition of the solution was not environmentally friendly so this method of lace making has all but disappeared in many countries. Chemical lace can be distinguished from needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threadsThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Narrow length of chemical lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Crochet Square
This little square, at just 6cm in width is quite intricate crochet work. The thread used appears to be a fine cotton and the pattern would have been executed with a very small metal or bone crochet hook. Queen Victoria learned the craft and made eight scarves for veterans of the South African War. After the Irish Potato Famine she purchased Irish crocheted lace to help Irish women who were struggling to make a living, and this popularised the craft.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Hand crochet squarecrochet, churchill island, janet amess, lace collection, lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Crochet Circles x 4
These circles are just 7cm in diameter and are beautifully executed fine crochet work. In the late 1800s, well-bred ladies learned needlecrafts from a very early age and it is quite possible that these circles were made by a member of the Amess family.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Small set of hand crochet circles in an abstract designcrochet, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Decorative object - Crochet Circles x 4
These small 8cm circles are not crochet but are made of bobbin lace. They may have been placed under trinkets on a dressing table or on a side table. In the late 19th century it was fashionable to have a collection of lace, and these may have been acquired for this purpose.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Handmade - probably bobbin lacecrochet, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, lace, bobbin, crotchet, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Ruffle with neckpiece
The neckpiece is 35.3cm long and 3cm wide and the ruffle is 35.3cm long and 16cm wide edged with delicate machine embroidery. In the mid to late 19th century, daydresses were made with a closed neckline, while evening dresses were usually off the shoulder. This ruffle was made to be attached to the bodice of a daydress to embellish the neckline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery embroidery, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace, neckpiece, garment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 5
At just 21cm in length and 27.5cm wide these machine lace pieces are most likely a sampler. Four of the pieces are insertion pieces, and the last is an edging piece. These samplers made ordering much more satisfactory than ordering from a catalogue. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery Noten packaged with panel "scraps of lace found jumbled in with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, embroidery, panel, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 8
At just 20.6cm in lace length and 27.5cm wide, this section of Torchon machine made lace is quite possibly a sampler for future purchases being a mixture of edging and insertion pieces. Torchon lace is a bobbin lace which is coarse and strong and was made all over Europe a characteristic of which was that the design and the ground were made in one continuous piece as opposed to motifs joined by brides. In 1809 John Heathcoat created a machine made net which didn’t unravel when cut and by 1870 every type of hand made lace had a machine made copy. Hand made lace as an industry virtually disappeared by 1900 and these machine made pieces were comparatively cheap.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Cheap Torchon machine lace Packaged with note: "Scraps of lace found jumbled with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above. The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis.Honiton Linen mimic. Hand made individual bobbin lace motifs hand sewn together with bobbin made bridesjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, 1800s, bobbin lace, decorative motifs, warp, weft -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
Although well-worn and somewhat damaged, this elegant lace collar is handmade and is a combination of some different styles. Bedfordshire lace, or simply Beds lace, and also known as Bedfordshire Maltese lace, was based on local lace forms traditionally produced in the English Midlands and on the Maltese lace that was developed in the early nineteenth century and on show at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. Maltese lace, and Bedfordshire lace, are forms of guipure, bobbin lace. The Maltese lace in particular gave the Bedfordshire lace its rounded leaf patterns and in this case its delicate brides and edging. The motifs appear to have been added and are most likely to be examples of Cluny lace which is of French origin and is a heavy plaited bobbin lace which is geometric in design often with radiating wheat ears. The motifs in this lace collar bear a very strong resemblance to Carrickmacross lace which is Irish in origin and is crafted by placing first the pattern, then fine muslin through which the pattern can be seen and then stitching around the pattern and finally cutting the excess muslin away. The pattern is decorated further with needle run stitches.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Maltese bobbin (NGV) Bedfordshire Cluny style hand made plaited lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, collar, garment, clothing, maltese, bobbin, handmade, plaited, bedfordshire cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This piece is a style of machine embroidered lace which can be found in haberdashery stores today. It is known as Broderie Anglaise Cambric Eyelet lace. It was made to be sewn either into or on fabric, and the sweet daisy design and ribbon insertion points would have been highly desirable for a child's or baby's dress, or for delicate undergarments. Broderie anglaise was extremely popular in England between 1840 and 1880 for children’s clothing and women’s undergarments. There was a resurgence of popularity in the 1950s. Beginning in the 1870s it was made using the Swiss hand embroidery machine.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidered (Lace Group Embroiderers Guild 1/3/12) See photos (2)janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This 158cm length of machine embroidered broderie anglaise was most likely intended to be inserted into children’s wear, women’s undergarments or as an embellishment for bed linen. It most likely originated in or around the Czech Republic but became extremely popular in England in the mid1800s. Prior to the 1870s broderie anglaise was created by hand either by punching out the holes with an embroidery stiletto and using a fine buttonhole stitch around them or by creating the pattern with stitchery and using scissors to cut out the holes. Beginning in the 1870s it was made using the Swiss hand-embroidery machine and nowadays all broderie anglaise is made by machine.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Machine embroidered length of lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This is a section of a machine made embroidered eyelet insertion piece. The holes are made for the insertion of ribbon and it would have been a pretty addition to a petticoat, bed linen or nightwear. The embroidered design is an indicator that perhaps this is later than the 19th century with the use of satin stitch. The edging is a type of fagoting where stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric together or threads are drawn and the gap created is decorated using a strong embroidery thread usually in a herringbone pattern but in a straight pattern in this case. In its most traditional form fagoting was done by removing weft threads and decorating the gap. When a plain linen chemise was your nightwear, it was an easy method for all classes of society to decorate their undergarment.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Length of machine made embroidered eyelet insertion piece.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery