Ceramic food bowl, grey glaze with blue Asian patternfood bowl, pinnaroo

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most pieces in his collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios, also give more detail. This detail is rare as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location where they were found. This object is part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese food bowl, porcelain, celadonBlue Chinese writing or maker's stamp on basechinese, bowl, porcelain, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most pieces in his collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios, also give more detail. This detail is rare as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location where they were found. This object is part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, bowl, tableware, porcelain, buckland, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, harrietville, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base. chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, harrietville, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze, Chinese. Blue floral design on outer surface, blue lines inside.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, buckland, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze. Decorations in blue colour on outer surface. Blue lines circling the inside, handpainted.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, harrietville, celadon, handpainted, porcelain bowl

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Porcelain food bowl, glazed, Chinese. Handpainted swirling pattern with Chinese writing on outer surface. Bowl base colour is a milky blue.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, buckland, handpainted

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, glazed. Chinese design on outer surface in blue colour. Two blue lines circling inside of bowl. One blue line circling top of rim.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, buckland, handpainted

This bowl was mass produced and was typical of mixing bowls used in homes during the 1950's in the Kiewa Valley.Women in the Kiewa Valley cooked at home for their family and for school and church fetes. This bowl was used for cake and biscuit mixtures. A large bone coloured mixing bowl with a lip for pouring. It has diagonal grooves around the outside.food. mixing bowl. kitchen. cooking. ceramic.

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

A badly damaged vintage 1915 hardcover children's book with the title Chatterbox. printed in white lettering at the top of the front cover which has a green coloured background with an illustration in a large circle of a dog with a red bandana wrapped around its head, lying in a straw lined box. A black cat is sitting looking at the dog and is wearing a blue ribbon with a bow around its neck. It is sitting near the dog's food bowl. The yellow and red coloured outside of the back cover has an advertisement for "Pears" soap with 'The Night of the Bath' printed underneath. The title page is missing as is the frontispiece coloured illustration usually found in these books. The pages 1 - 18 are missing. There are black and white illustrations, diagrams and coloured plates in the collection as well as puzzles, poetry, and stories for children. Pp. 400. The endpapers have several advertisements related to children, their health, food and sweets included. Its condition shows it was very well used.fictionA vintage 1915 Chatterbox collection of puzzles, poetry and stories for children with black lined illustrations and coloured plates throughout. children's books, books, children's stories, adventure stories

This salt cellar is typical of the ones used extensively for cooking or for table use at mealtime in households of the 19th and 20th centuries (popular up to about the 1970s). These were the times when salt was used more so than today in households to preserve and to add to the flavour of food. Today an item such as this may still be in a domestic kitchen cupboard but the salt would be used more sparingly.This item is retained as an example of a domestic item used extensively in the past.This is a clear glass salt cellar with a round moulded bowl with fluted edges. The bowl is on a glass stand, also with fluted edges.vintage domestic items, glass salt cellar

This dish would have been used in the home either as a dish for some sort of food (perhaps jam) or in the bedroom as a container for small items such as hair clips or pins or even as a powder bowl. It is an attractive item and has been bought for its ornamental qualities. This item has no known local provenance but is retained for display as an attractive and high-quality item in use in households in the past. This is a pink china dish or bowl with a lid. The bowl is round with a black edging around the rim. There is a small crack on the side. The lid is circular with a raised top and a black line around the rim and a wide circular band of patterning of flowers, leaves and scrolls around the outer edge. The pink handle has a black edging. 'F & Sons Burslem England'warrnambool, china bowl

The Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme (KHES) produced electricity for the people living in the Kiewa Valley and beyond to many parts of Victoria. The people and their families working on the scheme were encouraged by their employer the State Electricity Commission of Victoria to purchase and use electrical appliances. The mix master was popular for mixing food for baking and for making juice drinks. Ron White owned this 1950s vintage Sunbeam model 9 mixer with stand, milk glass bowls and complete juicer. Ron was a senior member of staff during the construction and operation of the KHES.This mix master was owned by Ron White who was appointed Area Operations Engineer Kiewa in June 1956. Ron was later appointed General Superintendent and then in 1974 to principal Hydro Engineer of the recently titled Hydro Division.White electrical food mixer with six parts. 1. Motor upright - white, on black stand horizontal. Black dial at back with speeds numbered and type of mix eg. mash. Front switch on/off. Black electric cord attached. Long black handle on one side. 2 Two beaters, silver 3. Bowls, white one small and one large. The small one has a spout. 4. Squeezer, white - fits on top for juicing. Parts as with orange juicer and with funnel at the front for juice to flow into a bowl.'Sunbeam' (in red) / 'Mix Master' in (black) on gold oblong 'emblem' sunbeam mix master; kitchen appliance; cooking; ron white; kiewa hydro electric scheme; food preparation

Equipment issued to operational staff to be used during active operations as a vessel for food and drink.Metal tin. two parts with handle. Silver in colour. Tin in two parts with base and lid. Half moon in shape. lid also can be used as a bowl. It has afold out handle to be used as a plate.passchendaele barracks trust, ration tin

Part of equipment issued to all soldiers on front line to be used for both serving food and drink. Belongs to Captain Brian Clerehan VX 91862 who enlisted 29/3/43 and was discharged 17/7/46 from 2nd New Guinea Infantry Batt.1. Light brown canvas carry bag for two metal bowls. Fold out piece with metal stud to open/close and metal hooks on back to attach to kit. 2. Silver metal bowl approx .6 litre capacity with metal folding handles - oval in shape. 3. Silver metal bowl approx 0.5 litre capacity with metal folding handles and oval in shape. Small folding ring attached to bottom. Smaller bowl sits inside bigger bowl sitting in canvas container.2. Has engraved between handles "D^D" & "VD".mess kit, equipment, ww2

This butter mould/pat may have been manufactured post 1967(year post codes appeared in Australia) however the post code was only stamped on after it was machined. This type of butter mould was used by rural families to fashion home/farm made butter. This period was in most rural regions a time of self sufficiency where any domestic type implement which could be fashioned by the family would be crafted with skill. Shopping for goods required catalogues from stores located in major rural towns and cities and involved lengthy waiting times. Travelling to and from these specialised stores was not pleasant due to the relatively poor quality of the roads and the lengthy times taken. The small general stores in the Kiewa Valley could not cater for all the needs of the valley. The 1960's was a time when facilities especially goods and services started to improve drastically. The S.E.C. of Victoria with its Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme provided not only an improvement of facilities in the valley but also a increase in the population. This increase resulted in a greater demand for local produce. This item is one of many domestic food processing implements used by Kiewa Valley households in the mid 1900s, whether on the farm or in the small towns and hamlets. Self sufficiency was the key to survival during these early times. Where ever possible supplies from within the valley were preferred to that brought in by travelling salesmen or traders. This butter mould and butter pat was commonly used to fashion "home" made butter throughout the valley and in some cases supplied to "outside" regional towns. Although this method of production was phased out by better access to goods from nearby cities the revival of the good organic home grown produce in the 1980s saw a greater demand of this type of farm based produce.This well crafted circular wooden butter mould could also be used as a butter pat.The handle in the middle of the mould was not added after the crafting but has been fashioned from the initial block of wood when the bowl was crafted. The bowl structure has a rim around the edge.The top of the handle has an ink stamp "T. & W. Dav" on the top line and "Tawonga 3697" underneath.domestic food preparation, wooden butter pat, butter mould circular, dairy industry

This "mixing" bowl was used in a period before electric food processors and mixers were readily available(1940's). Basic food ingrediences requiring mixing such as cakes scones and bread had to be hand blended.This mixing bowl is very significant to the Kiewa Valley andrural regions because it details not only what kitchens, be they commercial, domestic or rural camp, required to be stocked with but also a period in time when electrical goods such as blenders were not on in production and electricity was not available.This bowl is made from steel and has a green enamel covering. The rim of the bowl has a black border to highlight its edge.nilmixing bowl, kitchen

Part of the Mooney Collection held at Langi Morgala Museum. Wooden bowl carved by Australian Indigenous people. Long carved out boat hull shaped bow. It has carvings of water or an eel on the outside. Used to carry food or wood.Carvings of water or an eel on the outside of the bowl.

Used domestically, though any extra butter could have been sold to neighbours. Many families kept a cow or two for milk etc. Cream needed to be at least 2 days old - the thicker the better. The handle was turned until the cream turned to butter,the whey was poured off and the butter washed in cold water until the water ran clear. Generally salt and bicarbonate of soda were added. Two pats were used to form butter into 1lb lots. This butter was most typically meant for consumption by the family, but in some instances it may be taken away for consignment by commercial receivers of dairy produce. This item is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factories.A metal butter churn with cast iron hand crank on side. The bowl container has a steel lid. It sits on a tripod stand.dairy butter-churn farming

This handmade item represents an important pastime of Australian women of the late 19th to mid 20th century. Women's focus was the home and its decoration was important. Embroidery and crochet work was an affordable way to personalise and add aesthetic value, and examples of embroidered and crocheted pieces could be found in most Australian homes, decorating or protecting furniture, floors and walls, and keeping off flies and insects from food.Small square cream coloured hand crocheted sugar bowl cover. Word "sugar" is patterned into it. The beaded fringing is blue and white.food-cover handcrafts crochet

This butter mold is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesA wooden bowl which uses the lid as an imprint plunger. The imprint is a floral design and has a long handle. The bowl has a hole in the base for easy removal of butter.butter-mould domestic food-preparation