Ceramic food bowl, grey glaze with blue Asian patternfood bowl, pinnaroo

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most pieces in his collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios, also give more detail. This detail is rare as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location where they were found. This object is part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese food bowl, porcelain, celadonBlue Chinese writing or maker's stamp on basechinese, bowl, porcelain, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most pieces in his collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios, also give more detail. This detail is rare as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location where they were found. This object is part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, bowl, tableware, porcelain, buckland, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, harrietville, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base. chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, harrietville, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze, Chinese. Blue floral design on outer surface, blue lines inside.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, buckland, celadon

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, celadon glaze. Decorations in blue colour on outer surface. Blue lines circling the inside, handpainted.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, harrietville, celadon, handpainted, porcelain bowl

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Porcelain food bowl, glazed, Chinese. Handpainted swirling pattern with Chinese writing on outer surface. Bowl base colour is a milky blue.Blue Chinese writing or maker’s stamp on base.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, buckland, handpainted

Brought to the Ovens Goldfields by Chinese men working in the area in the 19th century. Most likely made in China.Aldo Gios recorded the location of where most of the pieces in this collection were found. Some maps drawn by Aldo Gios also give more detail. This detail is rare, as most pieces of broken crockery were discarded and complete items were usually collected with no thought to recording the location they came from. Part of one of the largest collections of Chinese ware found in the Upper Ovens area and the only one recording the location where found.Chinese porcelain food bowl, glazed. Chinese design on outer surface in blue colour. Two blue lines circling inside of bowl. One blue line circling top of rim.chinese, bowl, goldfields, gios, tableware, glaze, porcelain, buckland, handpainted

This bowl was mass produced and was typical of mixing bowls used in homes during the 1950's in the Kiewa Valley.Women in the Kiewa Valley cooked at home for their family and for school and church fetes. This bowl was used for cake and biscuit mixtures. A large bone coloured mixing bowl with a lip for pouring. It has diagonal grooves around the outside.food. mixing bowl. kitchen. cooking. ceramic.

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

A badly damaged vintage 1915 hardcover children's book with the title Chatterbox. printed in white lettering at the top of the front cover which has a green coloured background with an illustration in a large circle of a dog with a red bandana wrapped around its head, lying in a straw lined box. A black cat is sitting looking at the dog and is wearing a blue ribbon with a bow around its neck. It is sitting near the dog's food bowl. The yellow and red coloured outside of the back cover has an advertisement for "Pears" soap with 'The Night of the Bath' printed underneath. The title page is missing as is the frontispiece coloured illustration usually found in these books. The pages 1 - 18 are missing. There are black and white illustrations, diagrams and coloured plates in the collection as well as puzzles, poetry, and stories for children. Pp. 400. The endpapers have several advertisements related to children, their health, food and sweets included. Its condition shows it was very well used.fictionA vintage 1915 Chatterbox collection of puzzles, poetry and stories for children with black lined illustrations and coloured plates throughout. children's books, books, children's stories, adventure stories

A colander, sieve or cullender is a kitchen utensil used to strain foods such as pasta or to rinse vegetables. The perforated nature of the bowl allows liquid to drain through while retaining the solids inside it is sometimes also called a pasta strainer or kitchen sieve. Conventionally, colanders are made of a light metal, such as aluminum or thinly rolled stainless or plated steel, colanders are also made of plastic, silicone, ceramic, and enamelware. The word colander comes from the Latin Colum meaning sieve.Early 20th century kitchen item possibly of French manufacture due to the design and shape of the bowl this design appears to have been favoured by the French around 1910 for smaller Colanders. This item gives a snapshot into domestic life around the late 19th and early 20th centuries and the types of kitchen equipment in use.Strainer or colander, metal, with concave base and wood handle, plated metal construction with welded or folded seams. Handle painted black, perforated base.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, strainer, food strainer, seive, food preparation, kitchen ware

One of the first documented mentions of pudding can be found in Homer's Odyssey where a blood pudding roasted in a pig's stomach is described. This original meaning of a pudding as a sausage is retained in black pudding, which is a blood sausage originating in the United Kingdom and Ireland made from pork or beef blood, with pork fat or beef suet, and a cereal. Another early documented recipe for pudding is a reference to asida, found in a tenth century Arabic cookbook by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq called Kitab al-Ṭabīḫ (Arabic: كتاب الطبيخ, The Book of Dishes). It was described as a thick pudding of dates cooked with clarified butter (samn). A recipe for asida was also mentioned in an anonymous Hispano-Muslim cookbook dating to the 13th century. In the 13th and 14th centuries, in the mountainous region of the Rif along the Mediterranean coast of Morocco, flour made from lightly grilled barley was used in place of wheat flour. A recipe for asida that adds argan seed oil was documented by Leo Africanus (c. 1465–1550), the Arab explorer known as Hasan al-Wazan in the Arab world. According to the French scholar Maxime Rodinson, asida were typical foods among the Bedouin of pre-Islamic and, probably, later times. In the United Kingdom and some of the Commonwealth countries, the word pudding can be used to describe both sweet and savoury dishes. Unless qualified, however, the term in everyday usage typically denotes a dessert; in the United Kingdom, pudding is used as a synonym for a dessert course. Puddings had their 'real heyday...', according to food historian Annie Gray, '...from the seventeenth century onward'. It is argued that 'the future of the boiled suet pudding as one of England's national dishes was assured only when the pudding cloth came into use' and although puddings boiled in cloths may have been mentioned in the medieval era, one of the earliest mentions is in 1617 in a recipe for Cambridge pudding, a pudding cloth is indicated; 'throw your pudding in, being tied in a fair cloth; when it is boiled enough, cut it in the midst, and so serve it in'. The pudding cloth is said, according to food historian C. Anne Wilson, to have revolutionised puddings. 'The invention of the pudding-cloth or bag finally severed the link between puddings and animal guts. Puddings could now be made at any time, and they became a regular part of the daily fare of almost all classes. Recipes for them proliferated.' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PuddingPuddings and pudding making have evolved over the years, and continue to do so. White ceramic pudding bowl with fluted decoration on the outside.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, puddings, ceramics

The colander is an extremely useful tool in the kitchen, as it allows food to be fully drained of liquids such as water or oil. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of a type of item in common use in the 19th Century and that is still in use today.Mottled blue enamel colander with draining holes in the base and sides. Two thin handles on lip of bowl.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, enamel, colander, food preparation

This type of implement is used to gather food or if large enough, to carry a baby. The size of this item suggested it could have been used for either purpose. This is a women s implement.A bowl shaped dish, decorated with a witchety grub design.Witchety grub motive characteristic of the Central Desert tribes.coolamon dish, aboriginal wooden implements, central desert tribes.

The Moulin Legumes No. 3 food mill is a useful manual kitchen utensil for milling, sieving, grating and pureeing various food types (legumes, vegetables, fruit and herbs). The food is placed in the chamber and the handle is turned to push the food through the holes in the blades and into a bowl placed below it. The various blades allow choice of consistency as they have different sized holes. It was in use before electric food processors were invented and is still used in modern times. The vegetable mill was invented by the French inventor and industrialist, Jean Mantelet, in 1932. Inspired by his wife, he invented the mill, which simply and quickly made cooked food into puree or mash. He said "My greatest pride is to rid women of a daily chore." The business started using the brand Moulinex in 1956 and today is it a household name linked to useful and good quality kitchen utensils and aids. The name comes from combining the words Moulin Express, which was an electric coffee mill. The embossed text "BREVETE S G D G" was a type of French patent without a government guarantee. It stopped being used in 1968. This Moulin is an example of a kitchen utensil used before electric food processors were invented, and had gained popularity to process foods such as vegetable's, fruit, nuts and herbs in a domestic or commercial kitchen. The first model of the Moulin Legunes was invented in 1932 by French industrialist Jean Mantelet to meet the reduce labour for housewives in the kitchen. Millions of this labour saving device have since been sold. Food mill, metal, for manually processing food. Conical-shaped food chamber, two U-shaped handles on opposite sides, two clips inside. Three interchangeable twelve-sided cutting blades, each with different sized holes. Made in France. Model is Moulin Legumes No. 3. Impressed into the side, within a circle "MADE IN FRANCE - BREVETE S G D C -" and in centre "2" (Brevete is French word for Patent)flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, made in france, french kitchen utensils, moulin, food preparation, kitchen utensil, food mill, food processor, sieve, moule, mouli, grater, puree, hand operated, moulin legumes no. 3, vingage, kitchen gadget, moulineux, jean mantelet

The Hughes’ Family Scale No. 48 is a spring balance scale. It uses the Imperial measurements of ounces and pounds. There are 16 ounces (OZ) in one pound (LB), and each pound equals approximately 454 grams in Metric measurements. Scales have been used to measure and compare items for value for centuries. A weight was placed on one side of a balance and the object was placed on the other. Adjustments were made to either the weight or the object until the balance was horizontal, which meant that each side was the same weight. The Salter family business began in 1760 with spring makers, Richard and William Salter. In the late 18th century, Richard Salter invented the spring scale, where the weight of an object on the tray of the scale causes pressure on a spring in the scale. The pressure caused by gravity was then measured to calculate the weight of an object. Spring scales are still used today along with the more recent and accurate digital scales. The company began manufacturing in West Bromwich, England, in 1770. The firm was taken over by William’s sons, John and George. In 1824, after the death of John, the firm became George Salter & Co. The company produced a wide variety of products, including Britain’s first bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. In 1884 the Salter Trademark of a Staffordshire knot pierced by an arrow was registered. After over 100 years of manufacturing, the company was bought out by Staveley Industries, which was bought by Weigh-Tronix, and then that company was bought by HoMedics Company in 2004.This scale was made by Salter, the company that invented the balance scale, the first British bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. The scale represents the domestic equipment used for measuring in food preparation over 100 years ago. Modern kitchen scales are still using the same principal, along with scales used in business and industry.Scale; a domestic spring balance scale for measuring weight from 0 to 20 pounds. The scale’s grey metal case has a round white dial on the front with black markings, an arrow indicator and a round shallow metal bowl on a pedestal at the top. The scale is raised on a rectangular metal base with outward-sloping sides. An adjustable screw is on the dome top. The scale is marked from 0 to 20 pounds, with each pound marked in 1-ounce increments. The scale is named the Hughes Family Scale No. 48 and was made in Britain by Salter.“HUGHES’ / FAMILY SCALE / No. 48” “BRITISH MADE” “TO WEIGH 20 LBS BY 1 OZ” “SALTER” above logo [knotted rope with an arrow through loops]flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, hughes, salter, british made, family scale, no. 48, spring balance, scale, weighing instrument, weights and measures, weighing machine, kitchen utensil, baking accessory, domestic equipment, cookware, bakeware, kitchen scale, kitchen accessory, food preparation, recipes, cooking, measuring

A mixer is a kitchen utensil which uses a gear-driven mechanism to rotate a set of beaters in a bowl containing the food to be prepared. It automates the repetitive tasks of stirring, whisking or beating. Mixers for the kitchen first came into use midway through the nineteenth century; the earliest were mechanical devices. The mixer with rotating parts was patented in 1856 by Ralph Collier a tinsmith in Baltimore, Maryland .This was followed by E.P. Griffith's whisk patented in England in 1857. A circular tin used for mixing batters. The 2 beaters are of wire, with metal gears, suspended from a metal strip that fits over the tin bowl. and is clamped into place by a metal screw . A crank handle with a wooden black knob attached by a screw is turned by hand to mix the batter in the base. This tin could be secured to a table by a clamp and screw. cooking, kitchen equipment, dairy, cakes, housework, early settlers, pioneers, baking, nutrition, blacksmiths, market gardeners, cake mixers, moorabbin, cheltenham, bentleigh, brighton

This handmade item represents an important pastime of Australian women of the late 19th to mid 20th century. Women's focus was the home and its decoration was important. Embroidery and crochet work was an affordable way to personalise and add aesthetic value, and examples of embroidered and crocheted pieces could be found in most Australian homes, decorating or protecting furniture, floors and walls, and keeping off flies and insects from food.Small square cream coloured hand crocheted sugar bowl cover. Word "sugar" is patterned into it. The beaded fringing is blue and white.food-cover handcrafts crochet

This butter mold is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesA wooden bowl which uses the lid as an imprint plunger. The imprint is a floral design and has a long handle. The bowl has a hole in the base for easy removal of butter.butter-mould domestic food-preparation

Precursor to electric kitchen mixers this stand mixer is operated by handHand operated metal kitchen food mixer, twin chromed beaters and handle, silver metallic paint with green plastic bowl (non-original)"Kan wondami R"food mixers, kitchen equipment