This bowl was probably used by migrant workers on the SEC Victoria Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme circa 1950's. Due to the uneven pattern it can be assumed that this bowl was a cheap imported one possibly from Asia.This bowl has historical significance as a cheap imported mixing bowl or soup/main meal dish that shows the influence of the migrant infusion into the Kiewa Valley, maybe in the "gold rush" era. This medium sized ceramic/porcelain bowl has a gold painted rim and fine blue hair pin patterns and flowers. The pattern has been poorly applied and the irregular top lines appear to indicate an unprofessional alignment. The exterior has a rippled formation which has not been extended to the top rim. bottom inscription too faded to readkitchen bowl, main rice dish, mixing bowl

Market gardeners in Moorabbin Shire had many successful seasons and bought luxury items with their profitsAs market gardeners and other early settlers achieved prosperity they purchased luxury items.A silver embossed serving bowl with 4 curved legs and a lid with finial and embossed rim silverware, serving bowls, dinnerware, early settlers, moorabbin shire, bentleigh, moorabbin shire, cheltenham, market gardeners,

This bowl was mass produced and was typical of mixing bowls used in homes during the 1950's in the Kiewa Valley.Women in the Kiewa Valley cooked at home for their family and for school and church fetes. This bowl was used for cake and biscuit mixtures. A large bone coloured mixing bowl with a lip for pouring. It has diagonal grooves around the outside.food. mixing bowl. kitchen. cooking. ceramic.

This "mixing" bowl was used in a period before electric food processors and mixers were readily available(1940's). Basic food ingrediences requiring mixing such as cakes scones and bread had to be hand blended.This mixing bowl is very significant to the Kiewa Valley andrural regions because it details not only what kitchens, be they commercial, domestic or rural camp, required to be stocked with but also a period in time when electrical goods such as blenders were not on in production and electricity was not available.This bowl is made from steel and has a green enamel covering. The rim of the bowl has a black border to highlight its edge.nilmixing bowl, kitchen

A mass produced unbranded utilitarian item made for domestic use no history or provenance currently available, design indicates item made before 1950Item at this time cannot be associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance is unknown, item assessed as a collection asset as made prior to 1950.Stoneware mixing bowl round cream with pouring lip and decorative scallop relief around bodyNoneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, bowl, ceramic bowl, pouring bowl, kitchen ware, cooking ware, ironstone bowl, salt glazed, mixing bowl

This salt cellar is typical of the ones used extensively for cooking or for table use at mealtime in households of the 19th and 20th centuries (popular up to about the 1970s). These were the times when salt was used more so than today in households to preserve and to add to the flavour of food. Today an item such as this may still be in a domestic kitchen cupboard but the salt would be used more sparingly.This item is retained as an example of a domestic item used extensively in the past.This is a clear glass salt cellar with a round moulded bowl with fluted edges. The bowl is on a glass stand, also with fluted edges.vintage domestic items, glass salt cellar

The Hughes’ Family Scale No. 48 is a spring balance scale. It uses the Imperial measurements of ounces and pounds. There are 16 ounces (OZ) in one pound (LB), and each pound equals approximately 454 grams in Metric measurements. Scales have been used to measure and compare items for value for centuries. A weight was placed on one side of a balance and the object was placed on the other. Adjustments were made to either the weight or the object until the balance was horizontal, which meant that each side was the same weight. The Salter family business began in 1760 with spring makers, Richard and William Salter. In the late 18th century, Richard Salter invented the spring scale, where the weight of an object on the tray of the scale causes pressure on a spring in the scale. The pressure caused by gravity was then measured to calculate the weight of an object. Spring scales are still used today along with the more recent and accurate digital scales. The company began manufacturing in West Bromwich, England, in 1770. The firm was taken over by William’s sons, John and George. In 1824, after the death of John, the firm became George Salter & Co. The company produced a wide variety of products, including Britain’s first bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. In 1884 the Salter Trademark of a Staffordshire knot pierced by an arrow was registered. After over 100 years of manufacturing, the company was bought out by Staveley Industries, which was bought by Weigh-Tronix, and then that company was bought by HoMedics Company in 2004.This scale was made by Salter, the company that invented the balance scale, the first British bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. The scale represents the domestic equipment used for measuring in food preparation over 100 years ago. Modern kitchen scales are still using the same principal, along with scales used in business and industry.Scale; a domestic spring balance scale for measuring weight from 0 to 20 pounds. The scale’s grey metal case has a round white dial on the front with black markings, an arrow indicator and a round shallow metal bowl on a pedestal at the top. The scale is raised on a rectangular metal base with outward-sloping sides. An adjustable screw is on the dome top. The scale is marked from 0 to 20 pounds, with each pound marked in 1-ounce increments. The scale is named the Hughes Family Scale No. 48 and was made in Britain by Salter.“HUGHES’ / FAMILY SCALE / No. 48” “BRITISH MADE” “TO WEIGH 20 LBS BY 1 OZ” “SALTER” above logo [knotted rope with an arrow through loops]flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, hughes, salter, british made, family scale, no. 48, spring balance, scale, weighing instrument, weights and measures, weighing machine, kitchen utensil, baking accessory, domestic equipment, cookware, bakeware, kitchen scale, kitchen accessory, food preparation, recipes, cooking, measuring

This item is one of many 19th century items donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by the Giles Family, and known as the “Giles Family Collection”. Henry Giles was born at Tower Hill, Victoria in 1858 and worked as a labourer on the Warrnambool Breakwater. His wife, Mary Jane, was born in 1860 at Cooramook and worked as a student teacher at Mailor’s Flat Secondary School. The Giles family lived at The Maam, Wangoom in the late 19th century, before moving to New South Wales in 1895, where Henry built bridges. Henry died in 1933 and Mary Jane died seven years later. Flagstaff Hill holds a number of objects associated with the Giles family, which were donated by Flagstaff Hill volunteers Vera and Aurelin Giles (Henry and Mary Jane’s daughter and granddaughter respectively). These are predominantly located in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage and include: Living room • Cloths (made by Vera Giles) • Portraits of Mary and Henry Giles • 1 x dresser • Covers on dresser • 1 x bellows Baby’s room • 1 x blessing (in the baby’s room) • 1 x picture of boy and girl • 1 x rocking chair • 1 x cushion (made by V Giles) • 1 x chest (belonging to Mary Jane Giles’s mother, Jane Fleming who migrated to Australia from Ireland in 1843) • 1 x chest cover • Bed materials Bedroom • 1 x knitted bedspread and cushion cover (knitted by V Giles) • Pillow shams and covers (Mrs Catherine King) • Pillow cases (Mary Giles) • 1 x wash stand (Mary Giles) • Towels (lace knitted by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x washstand cover • 1 x white ceramic dog • Shaving items • 1 x dressing table mirror • 1 x dressing table cover (made by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x framed motto • 2 x texts • 1 x settee (sofa) • 1x wardrobe (Vera Giles donated the wardrobe in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage to Flagstaff Hill. According to Aurelin Giles, it was originally owned by William Swinton junior and was later given to a friend of the Giles family.) Kitchen • Settee covers (made by V Giles) • 1 x sideboard • 1 x butter churner • 2 x pictures • 1 x white cheese dome • 1 x wash-up tray • 2 x jugs • 1 x vegetable bowl and dish • 1 x willow pattern dinner set • Glass butter and jam dishes. The Giles family collection has social significance at a local level, because it illustrates the level of material support the Warrnambool community gave to Flagstaff Hill when the Museum was established.Calico bag of assorted fabrics, trims and sewn pieces (originally donated together with sewing machine). Items include clothing, lace, tablecloth, tray cloth, collars, oversleeves, trims, jug cover, lace inserts. (part of the Giles Collection)flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, linen, fabric, dressmaking, sewing materials, 19th century sewing, 19th century fashion, giles family, 19th century hand craft, henry giles, tower hill, cooramook, warrnambool breakwater, mailor’s flat, wangoom, 19th century clothing, 19th century linen, 19th century handcraft

This item is one of many 19th century items donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by the Giles Family, and known as the “Giles Family Collection”. Henry Giles was born at Tower Hill, Victoria in 1858 and worked as a labourer on the Warrnambool Breakwater. His wife, Mary Jane, was born in 1860 at Cooramook and worked as a student teacher at Mailor’s Flat Secondary School. The Giles family lived at The Maam, Wangoom in the late 19th century, before moving to New South Wales in 1895, where Henry built bridges. Henry died in 1933 and Mary Jane died seven years later. Flagstaff Hill holds a number of objects associated with the Giles family, which were donated by Flagstaff Hill volunteers Vera and Aurelin Giles (Henry and Mary Jane’s daughter and granddaughter respectively). These are predominantly located in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage and include: Living room • Cloths (made by Vera Giles) • Portraits of Mary and Henry Giles • 1 x dresser • Covers on dresser • 1 x bellows Baby’s room • 1 x blessing (in the baby’s room) • 1 x picture of boy and girl • 1 x rocking chair • 1 x cushion (made by V Giles) • 1 x chest (belonging to Mary Jane Giles’s mother, Jane Fleming who migrated to Australia from Ireland in 1843) • 1 x chest cover • Bed materials Bedroom • 1 x knitted bedspread and cushion cover (knitted by V Giles) • Pillow shams and covers (Mrs Catherine King) • Pillow cases (Mary Giles) • 1 x wash stand (Mary Giles) • Towels (lace knitted by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x washstand cover • 1 x white ceramic dog • Shaving items • 1 x dressing table mirror • 1 x dressing table cover (made by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x framed motto • 2 x texts • 1 x settee (sofa) • 1x wardrobe (Vera Giles donated the wardrobe in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage to Flagstaff Hill. According to Aurelin Giles, it was originally owned by William Swinton junior and was later given to a friend of the Giles family.) Kitchen • Settee covers (made by V Giles) • 1 x sideboard • 1 x butter churner • 2 x pictures • 1 x white cheese dome • 1 x wash-up tray • 2 x jugs • 1 x vegetable bowl and dish • 1 x willow pattern dinner set • Glass butter and jam dishes. The Giles family collection has social significance at a local level, because it illustrates the level of material support the Warrnambool community gave to Flagstaff Hill when the Museum was established.Guest towel, set of 3 white damask guest towels.(Giles Collection) flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, giles family, henry giles, tower hill, cooramook, warrnambool breakwater, mailor’s flat,, wangoom, 19th century linen, 19th century handcraft, guest towel

This item is one of many 19th century items donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by the Giles Family, and known as the “Giles Family Collection”. Henry Giles was born at Tower Hill, Victoria in 1858 and worked as a labourer on the Warrnambool Breakwater. His wife, Mary Jane, was born in 1860 at Cooramook and worked as a student teacher at Mailor’s Flat Secondary School. The Giles family lived at The Maam, Wangoom in the late 19th century, before moving to New South Wales in 1895, where Henry built bridges. Henry died in 1933 and Mary Jane died seven years later. Flagstaff Hill holds a number of objects associated with the Giles family, which were donated by Flagstaff Hill volunteers Vera and Aurelin Giles (Henry and Mary Jane’s daughter and granddaughter respectively). These are predominantly located in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage and include: Living room • Cloths (made by Vera Giles) • Portraits of Mary and Henry Giles • 1 x dresser • Covers on dresser • 1 x bellows Baby’s room • 1 x blessing (in the baby’s room) • 1 x picture of boy and girl • 1 x rocking chair • 1 x cushion (made by V Giles) • 1 x chest (belonging to Mary Jane Giles’s mother, Jane Fleming who migrated to Australia from Ireland in 1843) • 1 x chest cover • Bed materials Bedroom • 1 x knitted bedspread and cushion cover (knitted by V Giles) • Pillow shams and covers (Mrs Catherine King) • Pillow cases (Mary Giles) • 1 x wash stand (Mary Giles) • Towels (lace knitted by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x washstand cover • 1 x white ceramic dog • Shaving items • 1 x dressing table mirror • 1 x dressing table cover (made by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x framed motto • 2 x texts • 1 x settee (sofa) • 1x wardrobe (Vera Giles donated the wardrobe in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage to Flagstaff Hill. According to Aurelin Giles, it was originally owned by William Swinton junior and was later given to a friend of the Giles family.) Kitchen • Settee covers (made by V Giles) • 1 x sideboard • 1 x butter churner • 2 x pictures • 1 x white cheese dome • 1 x wash-up tray • 2 x jugs • 1 x vegetable bowl and dish • 1 x willow pattern dinner set • Glass butter and jam dishes. The Giles family collection has social significance at a local level, because it illustrates the level of material support the Warrnambool community gave to Flagstaff Hill when the Museum was established.Tray cloth, white linen, geometric pulled thread design. (Giles Collection) Tag attached "LHK n6" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, giles family, tower hill, cooramook, warrnambool breakwater, mailor’s flat, wangoom, 19th century linen, 19th century handcraft

This item is one of many 19th century items donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by the Giles Family, and known as the “Giles Family Collection”. Henry Giles was born at Tower Hill, Victoria in 1858 and worked as a labourer on the Warrnambool Breakwater. His wife, Mary Jane, was born in 1860 at Cooramook and worked as a student teacher at Mailor’s Flat Secondary School. The Giles family lived at The Maam, Wangoom in the late 19th century, before moving to New South Wales in 1895, where Henry built bridges. Henry died in 1933 and Mary Jane died seven years later. Flagstaff Hill holds a number of objects associated with the Giles family, which were donated by Flagstaff Hill volunteers Vera and Aurelin Giles (Henry and Mary Jane’s daughter and granddaughter respectively). These are predominantly located in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage and include: Living room • Cloths (made by Vera Giles) • Portraits of Mary and Henry Giles • 1 x dresser • Covers on dresser • 1 x bellows Baby’s room • 1 x blessing (in the baby’s room) • 1 x picture of boy and girl • 1 x rocking chair • 1 x cushion (made by V Giles) • 1 x chest (belonging to Mary Jane Giles’s mother, Jane Fleming who migrated to Australia from Ireland in 1843) • 1 x chest cover • Bed materials Bedroom • 1 x knitted bedspread and cushion cover (knitted by V Giles) • Pillow shams and covers (Mrs Catherine King) • Pillow cases (Mary Giles) • 1 x wash stand (Mary Giles) • Towels (lace knitted by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x washstand cover • 1 x white ceramic dog • Shaving items • 1 x dressing table mirror • 1 x dressing table cover (made by Aurelin Giles) • 1 x framed motto • 2 x texts • 1 x settee (sofa) • 1x wardrobe (Vera Giles donated the wardrobe in the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage to Flagstaff Hill. According to Aurelin Giles, it was originally owned by William Swinton junior and was later given to a friend of the Giles family.) Kitchen • Settee covers (made by V Giles) • 1 x sideboard • 1 x butter churner • 2 x pictures • 1 x white cheese dome • 1 x wash-up tray • 2 x jugs • 1 x vegetable bowl and dish • 1 x willow pattern dinner set • Glass butter and jam dishes. The Giles family collection has social significance at a local level, because it illustrates the level of material support the Warrnambool community gave to Flagstaff Hill when the Museum was established. Tray cloth, white cotton with blue floral embroidery, chrchet edge. Some small tears. (Giles Collection) Tag attached "LHK N7"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, giles family, henry giles, tower hill, cooramook, warrnambool breakwater, mailor’s flat, wangoom, 19th century linen, 19th century handcraft, tray cloth

In the 18th century, spring scales appeared. To produce these scales, a manufacturer would use the resistance of a spring to calculate weights, which could be read automatically on the scale’s face. The ease of use of spring scales over balance scales is what led most post offices to outfit their clerks with spring postal scales. One of the most common types of spring scales was the kitchen scale—also known as a family or dial scale. Designed for horizontal surfaces, these scales used the weight of goods in a pan at the top of the scale to force the spring down. Such scales were common in early-20th-century households and were sold by Sears and Montgomery Ward. Many had flat weighing surfaces but some were topped by shallow pans. Companies such as Salters, Chatillon, and Fairbanks made both. SALTER HOUSEWARES began in the late 1760 in the village of Bilston, England. At this time Richard Salter, a spring maker, began making 'pocket steelyards', a scale similar to the fisherman's scale of today. By 1825 his nephew George had taken over the company, which became known as George Salter & Co. and later established a large, well equipped manufacturing site in the town of West Bromwich. The business thrived throughout the 1900s, and in 1972 the company was purchased by Staveley Industries Plc. In 2002, the management team at Salter Housewares Ltd, backed by Barclays Private Equity, bought the company out from the group, to concentrate on its consumer businesses. In 2004 was sold to the US-based HoMedics company, and in 2006, Salter Housewares USA and Taylor Precision Products Inc (also owned by HoMedics) merged.Salter Brand No. 46 Household Spring Balance Kitchen Scales made of green painted metal with a white large clock face dial marked in 1oz graduations and with a shallow metal bowl placed on the flat top connected to the mechanism. An adjustable screw tightened or loosened the spring to bring the pointer to zero, prior to adding the material to be weighed.. A common piece of kitchen equipment as most families used this type of scale when measuring goods for cooking or storing. HOUSEHOLD SCALE / NO. 46 / SALTER / TO WEIGH 28 LB / ( rope & arrow TM) BRITISH MADE Base rope & anchor S (trade mark) weights, measures, shops, scales. balances, grocery stores, early settlers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, salter housewares pty ltd, west bromwich, england, salter george, salter richard, bilston england

A mixer is a kitchen utensil which uses a gear-driven mechanism to rotate a set of beaters in a bowl containing the food to be prepared. It automates the repetitive tasks of stirring, whisking or beating. Mixers for the kitchen first came into use midway through the nineteenth century; the earliest were mechanical devices. The mixer with rotating parts was patented in 1856 by Ralph Collier a tinsmith in Baltimore, Maryland .This was followed by E.P. Griffith's whisk patented in England in 1857. A circular tin used for mixing batters. The 2 beaters are of wire, with metal gears, suspended from a metal strip that fits over the tin bowl. and is clamped into place by a metal screw . A crank handle with a wooden black knob attached by a screw is turned by hand to mix the batter in the base. This tin could be secured to a table by a clamp and screw. cooking, kitchen equipment, dairy, cakes, housework, early settlers, pioneers, baking, nutrition, blacksmiths, market gardeners, cake mixers, moorabbin, cheltenham, bentleigh, brighton

Fairway Company Melbourne manufactured this pair of domestic scales with a dish / pan in which objects to be weighed and the weights / masses against which to weigh them are placed. These common kitchen / dairy scales would be used by the householder to weigh flour, sugar, cereal, vegetables, fruit, meats, butter, cheese etc. prior to cooking or storing . Its parts include a fulcrum, a beam that balances on it, two pans at the ends of the beam to hold the materials to be weighed, and counter-balancing weights. A set of domestic scales made by ‘Fairway’ Melbourne c1930. Painted cream steel with 1 metal bowl / pan and Imperial measure weights 2LB, 1LB, 4OZ, 2OZ, 1OZScales ; MADE BY / DOMESTIC SCALES / FAIRWAY / MELBOURNE AUST. Weights ; 2LB, 1LB, 4OZ, 2OZ, 1OZ market gardeners, early settlers, fruit vegetables, farmers, cooking, recipes, scales, weights, measures, brass, balance beam, moorabbin, cheltenham, bentleigh, kitchen scales, dairy products, cereals, wheat flour

In the 18th century, spring scales appeared. To produce these scales, a manufacturer would use the resistance of a spring to calculate weights, which could be read automatically on the scale’s face. The ease of use of spring scales over balance scales is what led most post offices to outfit their clerks with spring postal scales. One of the most common types of spring scales was the kitchen scale—also known as a family or dial scale. Designed for horizontal surfaces, these scales used the weight of goods in a pan at the top of the scale to force the spring down. Such scales were common in early-20th-century households and were sold by Sears and Montgomery Ward. Many had flat weighing surfaces but some were topped by shallow pans. Companies such as Salters, Chatillon, and Fairbanks made both. SALTER HOUSEWARES began in the late 1760 in the village of Bilston, England. At this time Richard Salter, a spring maker, began making 'pocket steelyards', a scale similar to the fisherman's scale of today. By 1825 his nephew George had taken over the company, which became known as George Salter & Co. and later established a large, well equipped manufacturing site in the town of West Bromwich. The business thrived throughout the 1900s, and in 1972 the company was purchased by Staveley Industries Plc. In 2002, the management team at Salter Housewares Ltd, backed by Barclays Private Equity, bought the company out from the group, to concentrate on its consumer businesses. In 2004 was sold to the US-based HoMedics company, and in 2006, Salter Housewares USA and Taylor Precision Products Inc (also owned by HoMedics) merged. Salter Brand No. 44 Household Spring Balance Kitchen Scales made of green painted metal with a large clock face dial marked in 1oz graduations and with a shallow metal bowl placed on the flat top connected to the mechanism. An adjustable screw tightened or loosened the spring to bring the pointer to zero, prior to adding the material to be weighed.. A common piece of kitchen equipment as most families used this type of scale when measuring goods for cooking or storing.On Clock face ; NO. 44 / HOUSEHOLD SCALE / TO WEIGH 14LB X 1OZ / Pro. Pat. No. 30819 / 32 / MADE IN ENGLAND / SALTER / S in trademark rope with arrow market gardeners, early settlers, fruit, vegetables, farmers, cooking, recipes, scales, weights, measures, brass, balance beam, moorabbin, cheltenham, bentleigh, kitchen scales, dairy products, cereals, wheat flour, salter housewares pty ltd, west bromwich england

Used in the hospital setting as general kitchen ware. For patients and staff in dining rooms. Stainless steel selected due to robust nature. Reflects an earlier era before individual serves, bulk sugar being the only availability.Significant as it is reflective of an earlier era and a somewhat expensive and decorative piece that is no longer in use in society.Stainless steel sugar bowl with single hinge lid with single knob and two oval like handles, on opposite sides, Bell like in shape. Cutout in lid for spoon location is representative of a rectangular shape.Embossed on lid "R.G.H.H". Embossed on bottom "EXHIBIT/ E.R.N.S.AS"sugar bowl, stainless steel, kitchen ware, repatriation general hospital heidelberg

This covered glass bowl with lid was made in a period when there was a strict discipline in the use a various dishes and accompaniments with respect to the type of crockery used. This was in the English style, especially in well to do rural family estates. This period was part of the early 1900's, when large rural acreage was family owned and the economical return to rural produce was very high. It was a time when the Australian economy "rode on the back of sheep"This item has relative significance to the Kiewa Valley as part of the rural and mining(gold) era when the strong return from local gold mining and grazing was demonstrated by the "landed gentry" and significant household cutlery, crockery, etiquette and old English mores, influenced by "Mother Britain"This green opalescent covered bowl is similar to the French PV cabbage form. When the lid is on the bowl appears as a small cabage with three sets of half peeled leaves. There are five outer leaves, next row are five inner leaves and finally three core leaves. The main bowl has a lip encircling the inside of the bowl for the lid to rest upon with closed. The glass has been pressed to show the leaves with their web like stalks. The inside area of the bowl and lid are smooth. This is to allow the mashed up contents to be easily scraped into a serving ladle.Barely visible "VALLERYSTHAL"glass bowls, kitchen crockery, serving etiquette, meal presentation

This bowl was imported from "the mother" country (England) in the period when good table ware was either shipped from England or Europe. It was in the period before the American and Asian imports were sought (post World War II and the depression/recession years), when only the best quality kitchenware was preferred and the cheaper mass produced goods were not on the market. The maker's details on the bottom puts the manufacture time between 1955 to 1962.This item, used by one of the Kiewa Valley's oldest established families provides the historical provenance for the item and the period purchased within the time frame when change in the purchasing (in cities) practices from traditional sources, England and Europe was slowly evolving from these sources to cheaper USA and Asian producers. This change however was slower in rural sectors than the cities and larger rural towns. The "traditional" sources was ingrained into the mores of rural sections and changing economic ties with Asia and the USA connected to the greater influx of dinner wares and the cheaper produce. The "throw away" society mores , developed in the USA, after World War II, and transferred to Australia by new technology driven media outlets had a very effective outcome for the demise of quality products from the "mother" country.This buff coloured glazed ceramic bowl was manufactured by an official potter to Her Majesty Queen Victoria. It has a "patterned" top rim but no other details.On the outside bottom the makers seal "Est. 1792" and in a double lined scroll like frame "RIDGEWAY" underneath in smaller print "Made In England".ceramic bowls, kitchen crockery, domestic plates

This meat mincer was born in a period where hand operated mincing and blending machines were only available for household mincing meats and blending ingredients up to the 1960's. Electrical kitchen based whitegoods were rare in areas where the connection to electricity was intermittent or not at all.This kitchen aid is a very significant item in the Kiewa Valley before suitable electrically operated mincers became available and constant reliable electrical connections were installed. The Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme provide the stable supply of electricity which made most of the hand operated mincing machines obsolete. However large mincers for bulk supplies were still required eg. kitchens for SEC workers during the 50's and 60's.This heavy industrial type meat mincer(cast iron) has a top "rounded feeder cup" with a mincer screw blade at the bottom. A winder handle rotates the screw like mechanism to mince and express solid pieces of meat at the other end. There is a clamp below the main structure which permits the fastening of the hand driven mincer to a table or solid ledge. The hand grip of the handle is made from wood and fashioned like a clothes peg.On the rounded feeder bowl "MAJOR" and on the winder handle "A POPE PRODUCT"hand operated meat mincers, meat grinders, kitchen utensils

Johnson Brothers were a British tableware manufacturer and exporter that was noted for its early introduction of "semi-porcelain" tableware. It was among the most successful of the Staffordshire potteries which produced tableware, much of it exported from the 1890s through the 1960s. They were also important manufacturers of large bathroom ceramics. The company was founded in 1883, but from 1968 to 2015 it operated as a part of the Wedgwood Group. However, after the Wedgwood Group was acquired by Fiskars in 2015, the production of Johnson Brothers was discontinued. The company's name derives from the names of the company's founders. The four original "Johnson Brothers" were Alfred, Frederick, Henry, and Robert. Their father married the daughter of a master potter, Alfred Meakin. In 1883, Alfred and Frederick Johnson began production at defunct pottery, known as the Charles Street Works, that they had purchased at a bankruptcy sale in Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent. At first, they specialised in the manufacture of durable earthenware, which they called "White Granite". The success of this venture led to rapid expansion. In 1888, the Rev. Henry Johnson joined them, followed ten years later by a fourth brother, Robert Johnson. Having established a solid reputation producing basic "whiteware", the company developed a product known as "semi-porcelain", a range of pottery that had the characteristics of fine china, but the durability of ironstone ware. This kind of tableware soon became very popular in the United States due to its durability and low cost. In 1889, the Hanley pottery was opened, later the Alexander pottery, and in 1891 the Imperial Works Pottery. In 1896, the Trent Sanitary Works was opened for the production of non-tableware products, and Alfred Johnson left the business to establish his pottery. By 1898, Robert Johnson had relocated to New York City to manage Johnson Brothers' rapid expansion into the North American market. An item that gives a snapshot into the emerging market for tableware that was reasonably priced and serviceable. The company produced "whiteware" but the innervation of the pottery line called semi-porcelain changed the industry. This allowed potteries to produce fashionable pottery items that were affordable to all social classes of the time. Bowl white ceramic decorative with floral decoration around lip. On base, "Royal Ironside China, Johnson Bros England" & crest of lion and unicorn flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, bowl, china bowl, lion and unicorn crest, table ware, kitchen ware, white ware, johnson brothers

A colander, sieve or cullender is a kitchen utensil used to strain foods such as pasta or to rinse vegetables. The perforated nature of the bowl allows liquid to drain through while retaining the solids inside it is sometimes also called a pasta strainer or kitchen sieve. Conventionally, colanders are made of a light metal, such as aluminum or thinly rolled stainless or plated steel, colanders are also made of plastic, silicone, ceramic, and enamelware. The word colander comes from the Latin Colum meaning sieve.Early 20th century kitchen item possibly of French manufacture due to the design and shape of the bowl this design appears to have been favoured by the French around 1910 for smaller Colanders. This item gives a snapshot into domestic life around the late 19th and early 20th centuries and the types of kitchen equipment in use.Strainer or colander, metal, with concave base and wood handle, plated metal construction with welded or folded seams. Handle painted black, perforated base.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, strainer, food strainer, seive, food preparation, kitchen ware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The colander is an extremely useful tool in the kitchen, as it allows food to be fully drained of liquids such as water or oil. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of a type of item in common use in the 19th Century and that is still in use today.Mottled blue enamel colander with draining holes in the base and sides. Two thin handles on lip of bowl.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, enamel, colander, food preparation

Mixing bowls of this design were a common item in Austrailan kitchens in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Women worked largely in the kitchen producing three meals daily for their families and, on farms, for the workers or casual labourers.Local significance for the history of women's work, especially the domestic duties of baking and cooking. Round, cream-coloured, ceramic mixing bowl with pouring lip, fluted design.baking, cakes, mixing bowl, kitchenware, women s work, domestic utensils, home cooked meals

The basic balance scale has been around for thousands of years and its accuracy has improved dramatically over the last several centuries, the principle behind this tool remains unchanged. Its parts include a fulcrum, a beam that balances on it, a pan at the end of the beam to hold the materials to be weighed, and a flat platform at the other for the counter-balancing weights. Balance scales that require equal weights on each side of the fulcrum have been used by everyone from apothecaries and assayers to jewellers and postal workers. Known as an unequal arm balance scale, this variety builds the counterweight into the device. Counter scales used in dry-goods stores and domestic kitchens often featured Japanned or (blackened) cast iron with bronze trims. Made by companies such as Howe and Fairbanks, the footed tin pans of these scales were often oblong, some encircled at one end so bulk items could be easily poured into a bag. Seamless pans were typically stamped from brass and given style names like Snuff (the smallest) and Birmingham (the largest). Some counter scales were designed for measuring spices, others for weighing slices of cake. In the 18th century, spring scales began to appear and would use the resistance of spring to calculate weights, which are read automatically on the scale’s face. The ease of use of spring scales over balance scales. These scales are significant as they identify one of the basic preparation items for the weighing of foodstuff in the family kitchen to prepare everyday meals. This item is significant as it gives a snapshot into domestic life within the average home in Australia around the turn of the twentieth century and is, therefore, an item with social relevance. Black cast iron, medium weighing scales, with a fulcrum which the beam that balances on, there is a scoop or large bowl at one end for the material to be weighted and a flat platform at the other end that holds the weights. Around the cast iron base is an embossed strip weight and bowl missing.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Earthenware, 2 teacups, 2 saucers, 2 side plates and 1 cereal bowl with side plate in 'Real Old Willow' pattern. Traditional dark blue Willow Pattern, with hand-painted gold rims. Small Willow Pattern cameo at the base inside each cup.Pattern Number 8025. Small Willow Pattern cameo at the base inside each cup.ornaments, earthenware, booths pty ltd, tunstall, england, early settlers, pioneers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, ormond, market gardeners