The pair of ornamental white resin owl bookends was likely made around the 1930s when epoxy resin became available. Bookends modelled on owls have been a popular ornament for many years, possibly because of the association between owls, books and wisdom. They are used and displayed in places where books are appreciated and valued, such as homes, libraries, educational buildings, business offices, legal institutions and banks. Bookends hold a row of upright books in place by supporting the beginning and end of the row. The books are more likely to keep their integrity when stored vertically. The first patent for a metal bookend was placed by William Stebbins Barnard in 1877. Bookends became useful and decorative items around the middle of the sixteenth century after printed books became available. At that time books were expensive and treasured possessions, treated with much respect. Even in the early nineteenth century, a Bible was often the only book in the home. It was included among the limited items brought by many immigrants to Australia. Books became more available and affordable to the public by the end of the nineteenth century and households and businesses were able to build their own libraries. Bookends were used then, and are still used now, to keep books organised, cared for, and readily accessible. Bookends, a pair of two (2) small white resin owls with clear bright red eyes standing on a stack of books, their bodies facing towards each other, chests on an upright book, heads turned towards the viewer. The ends are left and right-handed.flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, ornament, bookend, bookends, pair of bookends, library, book storage, book display, room decoration, resin ornament, white bookends, owl bookends, owl ornament, white owls, resin owls, book support, bookend patent, william stebbins barnard

Heidelberg Golf Club: Eaglemont Room decorations from the 75th Anniversary black tie dinner 16 August 2003. Colour photographs of table settings75th anniversary celebrations, 75th year, heidelberg golf club - history, eaglemont room

Several people sitting at a table with food and drinks and 7 more standing at the back of the room. The room has Christmas decoration all around.Kodakperson, group, gas and fuel christmas lunch

Several people sitting at tables with food and drinks and 3 more standing around the room. The room has Christmas decoration all around. A man centre foreground is wearing a blue shirt with the word Billabong in white and pink.Kodakperson, group, gas and fuel christmas lunch

A large lamp used used to light a room by showing light from above. Used in the Orbost district late 19th to early 20th century prior to electricity connection. Generally, lamps like this had a matching decorations on the shade and vase. It would have been almost impossible to find an exact match if the shade was broken so the next best thing was to replace it with a plain white one. The majority of the removable slip fonts were made to the same dimensions so it was not uncommon for an original font to be replaced with a different brand if it became unusable. This is an example of a domestic lighting device in use before the widespread connection of electricity to houses in Orbost.A large lamp which hangs from a bracket. It has a large white glass cover above the wick burner and below is a white bowl decorated with flowers. The hanging lamp is American and, from the design and pattern of the brass work, it was made by Edward Miller & Co. Both the shade and vase (font holder) are glass. It is most likely that the shade has been replaced at some stage. (ref. oillampantiques.com) illumination-lamp hanging-lamp kerosene-lamp

The photo is taken in 1934 and illustrates the internal view of a ward in the Mental Hospital at Beechworth. Some patients in beds and three nurses are in view. Beds were arranged in lines alongside the walls and there were no partitions or screens to create privacy for patients. Furniture was simple and humble; bed frames were made of metal or wood and pillowcases and covers for the attendant`s tables were sometimes made of blue-striped canvas or calico. Large windows in the walls were offering ample light and the room was well-tended, with Christmas decoration, flowers, pots and carpets on the floor. The nurse in the foreground is Miss Neary. The Mayday Hills Hospital was constructed between 1864 and 1867, with buildings created in a number of periods. It formally opened on 24 October 1867 and, along with the Ovens Hospital and the Benevolent Asylum, made Beechworth a prominent social welfare centre in Victoria. The need for an institution of this kind was arisen due to the increased number of people with mental disturbances (induced by the harsh living conditions on the goldfields) and the remoteness of the district from Melbourne. The site was chosen for its panoramic view of the countryside, the hilltop atmosphere and the native fauna, all contributing to the cure of patients. The Hospital was originally named the “Ovens Lunatic Asylum” but, during the centenary celebrations in 1967, the name was officially changed to “Mayday Hills Hospital”, showing the gradual shift in the perception and understanding of mental health conditions over the last decades. The Hospital lies on the traditional land of the Kulin Nation. This photograph is historically significant as it provides an insight into the living conditions of patients admitted to the Mayday Hills Hospital at the beginning of the 20th century. It also contributes to the understanding of the district`s development and its importance to the course of Victoria`s history. Additionally, it provides important information about the way mental health conditions were perceived at that time and how patients were treated. Black and white rectangular photograph printed on paper. Reverse: 1997.2665/ To Miss JA.Peach/ [hallmark: Printed by Harringtons]/ With best wishes/from/H.Jeanes/for 1934.mayday hills hospital, benevolent asylum, ovens hospital, ovens lunatic asylum, kulin nation, beechworth, patients, nurse, social welfare, goldfields, melbourne, mental health, living conditions, blue-striped canvas, calico, bed frames, miss neary, mental disturbances, traditional land, centenary celebrations

This shaving set was used, mostly by men, to lather the face prior to shaving. Ornamental mugs such as this one were often given as presents. Today most men use electric shavers. This shaving set has no known local provenance and is kept for display purposes.This is a shaving set with a white china mug in the shape of a fish with a mouth where the excess water and lather are ejected and it has a handle in the shape of a fish’s tail. The top open section that contains room for the lather and water has white ornamentation around the outer section and has three holes inside for drainage. There is evidence of some gilt decoration around the mouth and eye of the fish and the open top section but this is now mostly rubbed away. The brush has a wooden handle with cotton braiding and hair (probably horsehair). The brush is a little worn. bathroom accessories, history of warrnambool

This is a wall decoration intended for a child's room or centre. It shows Humpty Dumpty and a girl nursery rhyme character and is believed to have been on the wall in a children's ward at the Warrnambool Hospital. The painters were A&A Henderson of Ballarat, believed to be Angus and Andrew Henderson who had a sign-writing and house decorating business in Ballarat in the early to mid 20th century. The business operated under the name Henderson Brothers. Angus Henderson was a well known Ballarat signwriter who taught signwriting at the Ballarat Technical Art School in the 1940sThis is a piece of cream canvas material on which are painted two nursery rhyme figures in various colours. There is some evidence of mould on the back of the canvas. A.& A.Henderson Ballarathenderson brothers, signwriters, ballarat

Book prize awarded to Minnie Monteith for excellence in Violin by Elspeth Carson in 1921. Book donated to the school by Minnie's nephew R H McCarthy of WA in 2013. Minnie also achieved Dux of the school in 1921 and held the role of Head Prefect in 1921. The book prize was provided by Miss Refisch (possibly S Rehfisch who entered the school in 1902.) This book also displays the crest of the Presbyterian Book Room embossed onto its front cover. Minnie was both Dux of the school and Head Prefect in her final year (1921) at CPLC. This book is signed by Principal Elspeth Carson who lead the inaugural year of Clarendon Presbyterian Ladies College (previously Clarendon Ladies College). Dark green padded and textured calf binding with gold printing and decoration on spine; embossed school crest and bookroom crest on front cover; gold detail to inside edge of cover; marbled end-pages and gilt edge; hinges loose; book plate inside front cover; Book plate inside front cover: school crest / Clarendon Presbyterian / Ladies' College / Ballarat / Form VII / Prize Special / Violin / Awarded to / Minnie Monteith / E Carson / Principal / December 1921 / Gift of Miss Rehfisch / minnie-monteith, elspeth-carson, rehfisch, 1921, book-prize, clarendon-presbyterian-ladies-college, presbyterian-book-room,

Clarendon PLC celebrated its 125th anniversary on 11-12 September 1993. Events included a dinner on Saturday evening at the Balanada Room, Main Road, Ballarat, a Sunday morning service in the College Chapel, Sturt Street campus and an informal luncheon in Watson Hall, Mair Street campus. These bowls were hand made by Susan Gillett (Hoskins) CPLC 1966 as gifts provided to old collegians attending the event. Three hand painted fire-kilned pottery bowls with blue and yellow decoration to border and base of bowlPainted inside bowl: C.P.L.C. 125 YEARS Inscribed on base: SUSANclarendon-presbyterian-ladies-college, 1993, 125th anniversary

The photograph depicts the interior of the chapel located on the east wing of the Siddeley Street Mission.The chapel is decorated for Easter service. The altar, the pulpit were reused in the St Peter's chapel of the Flinders Street Mission. On the wall hangs the plaque erected to Celia Little, another plaque in memory of Celia Little is now in the "Celia Little" room at the Flinders Street Mission. In the "Jottings from our log" number 30, dated from Easter 1913, it is written: "Miss Tracy kindly did The Easter decorations with white flowers and palms in pots, all in beautiful keeping with the glad thoughts of Easter." Maybe the picture was taken on that occasion.The chapel was built in 1909. Celia Little (1822-1895), was the Reverend Alfred Gurney Goldsmith's aunt. Some funds from her estate were used to build the chapel. Small monochrome photograph, inside chapel, Siddeley Street Institute, decorated with white flowers and palms.'Stevedore's Bldg Siddeley St Easter Sunday in the Chapel old Institute' siddeley street institute, chapel, easter, pulpit, reverend w.f. haire, celia little, plaque, alfred gurney goldsmith

The Sailors' Rest, located in Ann Street, Williamstown opened on 24 May 1878. An article dating 25 May 1878, in the Williamstown Chronicle, describes the interior of the renovated Wesleyan chuch as depicted on the print: "Inside the building the carpenters and painters have been busily engaged. It has been painted throughout, the lower part of the walls be ing stained blue. There is a form all round the building with tables up the sides, and a number of small round tables are scattered about the roomi. In the centre is a splendid wire stand for pot plants, of which there is a grand display. Pictures adorn, the walls; singing birds warble their sweet strains ; and the silent gold fish of which there are several globes add to the beauty of the display. At the east end of the room is the bar, occupying one corner, while in the other are the shelves which accommodate the books of the Library, while last evening across the end wall was in large illuminated letters-'" The earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof." On the platform are a piano and harmonium. The room is very presentable whether in day light or illuminated vith gas." Eva Carmichael, one of the two survivors of the Loch Art tragedy, visited here on 19 July 1878. She had stayed with Mr and Mrs Gibson and travelled from Camperdown to Melbourne (15 July 1878) to sail back to Ireland. Article in the Leader, 20 July 1878, Page 19: "The Saitors' Rest at Williamstown was yesterday visited by Miss Carmichael, Mr. T. Pearce and Mr. and Mrs. Gibson. The objects of the institution were explained to them, and after a brief stay they complimented the committee on their arrangement. The attendance has ho largely increased that the receipts now average £80 per month. The print is a rare insight of the Sailors' Rest in Williamstown, depicitng the room filled with plants, birds in cages, the seamen enjoying some board games, and coffee.Illustration depicting the interios of the Williamstown Sailors' Rest in 1878 with decoration (plants, paintings, birds in cages), and sailors at tables busy playing chess, talking, having a drink.sailors' rest, williamstown, 1878, plants, books, library, tables, sailors, games, chess, coffee, seamen, sir william stawell, hugh ronald reid

The postcard shows how the Mission to Seafarers, then known as the Seamens Institute, looked early in its operation - probably circa 1920. It also documents the types of activities were offered to visitors, and how the visitors used the facilities.The postcard records the fittings and furnishings of the Mission to Seafarers, then known as the Seamens' Institute: tables, chairs but also the paintings which were often donated. The largest one on the main wall above the stage is "Start Point Light, Devonshire" (see item 0230), painted and donated by Miss Madeline R. Lewellin (1854-1944) in 1918. A sepia-toned postcard, of the main hall/club room of the "Seamens Institute" Mission to Seafarers. The image shows the arrangement of tables, pool table and bar in the club room, as well as the decorations and fitting of the room.On front: INTERIOR OF SEAMENS INSTITUTE, FLINDERS STREET MELBOURNE VALENTINES SERIES M. 4968 printed in black. On reverse: VALENTINES / REAL PHOTO SERIES logo in the middle of the top of the postcard. Along the left-hand edge: PUBLISHED BY THE VALENTINE PUBLISHING CO. PTY. LTD / QUEEN ST., MELB. printed in black.postcard, seamens-institute, club-room, bar

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

This photograph is part of the Caulfield Historical Album 1972. This album was created in approximately 1972 as part of a project by the Caulfield Historical Society to assist in identifying buildings worthy of preservation. The album is related to a Survey the Caulfield Historical Society developed in collaboration with the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) and Caulfield City Council to identify historic buildings within the City of Caulfield that warranted the protection of a National Trust Classification. Principal photographer thought to be Trevor Hart, member of Caulfield Historical Society. Most photographs were taken between 1966-1972 with a small number of photographs being older and from unknown sources. All photographs are black and white except where stated, with 386 photographs over 198 pages. HISTORY:-- From Victorian Heritage Database citation for Labassa https://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/278 as at (26/10/2020) Labassa, Caulfield is one of Melbourne's most lavishly decorated nineteenth century mansions. It resulted from the extensive remodelling in 1890, of an earlier house, known as Sylliott Hill, which was begun in 1862-3 for lawyer, Richard A. Billing. The land at the corner of Balaclava and Orrong Roads was first acquired in 1854 by William Lyall, transferred to his partner, John Mickle, in 1859, who also acquired the adjoining allotment in Balaclava Road, and the three allotments were conveyed to Billing. His first eight-roomed house was extended significantly in 1873 into a twenty-roomed house by architects Crouch and Wilson, who were possibly also responsible for the first house. This reflected Billing's success as a barrister, and he resided at this property until his death in 1882. In 1883 prominent Melbourne businessman, Alexander William Robertson, leased the Sylliott Hill property from Billing's widow, and in 1885 he purchased the adjoining allotment in Balaclava Road. He purchased the Billing's property in 1887 and renamed the 6.31 hectare property, Ontario. In 1889-90, Robertson commissioned the German born architect, John A. B. Koch, to extensively remodel the house into a thirty-five roomed mansion. The existing house was extended and altered, largely resulting in the nineteenth century mansion as it now appears. After Robertson's death in 1896, the house was tenanted until it was eventually sold to the mining millionaire, John Boyd Watson, in 1904. He renamed the property Labassa and carried out repair and re-decoration work to the house. In the early twentieth century, many large estates were subdivided into smaller allotments as the demand for land grew and it became difficult to maintain such large estates. After Watson's death in 1911, portions of the Labassa estate were offered for sale, with Mrs Watson retaining a 1.73 hectare portion containing the house. In 1913 forty-six allotments were auctioned at Labassa Estate, with the formation of Labassa Grove and Ontario Street to the east of the property. Labassa was first recorded as containing flats in 1923 and in the late 1920s, the owner, Robert Hannon, built a red brick block of flats adjacent to the house. Subdivision continued, until the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) purchased the house in 1980 and subsequently purchased adjoining sites, one to the south-east in 1984 (house demolished in 1988) and to the west in 1988. Labassa as it now stands is substantially as it appeared when Koch completed the work in 1890. The original two storey house was transformed into a French Renaissance style mansion, with the addition of a two level L-shaped arcaded verandah and two prominent terminating bays to the south and the east. The building is of unpainted cement render with dressed bluestone plinths, balustraded parapet and steep, slate covered, flat topped mansard roofs behind. A truncated conical roof is a feature of the south bay and a helmeted head is incorporated in the parapet over the east bay. The main south and east facades incorporate many cast cement details, including sculptures, elaborate cornices, swagged Corinthian columns and caryatid consoles flanking the entrance porch, as well as pink marble panels and imitation marble, or scagliola, on curved surfaces. At the rear of the building is a two storey wing and a single storey cottage, the former being connected to the main house by a tower. This section of the house was constructed in 1873. The estate at its peak included stables (1873), conservatory (probably 1890) and a tennis pavilion (probably 1890). All of these outbuildings survive, with the stables and conservatory being converted for residential use after 1922. Internally a range of decorative treatments remain from the late nineteenth century and the early twentieth century, both from the Robertson and Watson periods of occupancy. These include wallpapers, ceiling decoration, chimney pieces, mouldings, joinery and decorative glass. From Victorian Heritage Database citation for H0135 Labassa 2/2A Manor Grove Caulfield North https://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/278 as at (26/10/2020) HOW IS IT SIGNIFICANT? Labassa, Caulfield is of architectural, aesthetic and historical significance to the State of Victoria. WHY IS IT SIGNIFICANT? Labassa, Caulfield is of architectural significance as the most prominent example of a small number of houses built in Australia in the French Renaissance style. It is of further note due to the German interpretation of the style and the use of Hellenistic sources, via Germany. It is exceptional for its lavish treatment externally, including marble, scagliola, caryatids, swagged columns, mansard roofs and ornamental cresting. Labassa is of architectural significance as the most important surviving example of German architect, John Koch's domestic work. He undertook a large variety of work in Melbourne, including a number of houses, however Labassa is the most lavish example of his work. Labassa is of aesthetic significance for its outstanding assemblage of late nineteenth and early twentieth century European style interior decoration, which remain remarkably intact. These include a trompe l'oeil ceiling, painted ceilings, embossed imitation leather and other papers, chimney pieces, ceramic tilework, oak parquetry and stained glass, including a tripartite window by Ferguson and Urie, probably dating from the 1873 period. Labassa is of historical significance as an illustrative example of the wealth acquired by a number of prominent Victorian families in the second half of the 19th century. The early development of the property, Sylliott Hill, was due to the wealth acquired by Richard Billing, barrister and fifth Victorian to be appointed Queen's Counsel in 1878. The significant development in 1890 of Ontario, is illustrative of the wealth of Alexander Robertson, a partner in Cobb and Co., a director of Goldsborough Mort & Co., and a pastoral speculator. John B. Watson, whose father had acquired great wealth from the goldfields of Bendigo and subsequently invested in city and country properties, was the third resident to impact on the house, particularly the interiors. The Labassa estate is of historical significance as an illustrative example of the development that occurred in such suburbs as Caulfield in the 1880s due to the land boom, its proximity to Melbourne and the establishment of the Melbourne to Gippsland railway in 1879. It is also illustrative of an estate which succumbed to the pressures of subdividing in the early twentieth century, as properties became difficult to maintain and demand for land close to the city grew. It was typically divided into flats in the 1920s and was used as such for about sixty years. It is of historical significance for its associations with the remnants of the earlier estate which remain extant. These include the stables, conservatory (H2005) and tennis pavilion which all remain on separate sites. Also significant are the remains of early electrical wiring and fittings. Labassa was one of the first houses in Caulfield to be electrified and some of the original wires remain. [Online Data Upgrade Project 2004]Page 128 of Photograph Album with four photographs (two portrait and two landscape) of Labassa.Handwritten: "Labassa" 4 Manor Grove [top right] / Neg 232 8 Oct 1966 [under bottom right photo] / 128 [bottom right]trevor hart, bracketed eaves, slate roof, bay windows, decorative brackets, caulfield north, labassa, richard a. billing, balaclava road, orrong road, sylliott hill, william lyall, crouch and wilson, alexander william robertson, ontario, 1880's, john a. b. koch, mansion, john boyd watson, labassa grove, french renaissance style, l-shaped arcaded verandah, bluestone plinths, balustraded parapet, flat topped mansard roofs, conical roof, elaborate cornices, corinthian columns, caryatid consoles, marble panels, imitation marble, scagliola, tower, conservatory, stables, tennis pavilion, mouldings, decorative glass, caryatids, swagged columns, ornamental cresting, trompe l'oeil ceiling, embossed imitation leather, oak parquetry, stained glass, tripartite window, triple window, ferguson and urie, 1870's, flats, 1920's, electric wiring, 1860's, verandahs, curved windows, arched windows, italianate, terraces, gargoyles, ornamentation, ornate entrance, la bassa, manor grove, st kilda east, victorian, cast iron work, john koch, richard billing, architects, electrification, john mickle, land subdivision, mrs watson, labassa estate, robert hannon, national trust of australia (victoria), sculpture

This photograph is part of the Caulfield Historical Album 1972. This album was created in approximately 1972 as part of a project by the Caulfield Historical Society to assist in identifying buildings worthy of preservation. The album is related to a Survey the Caulfield Historical Society developed in collaboration with the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) and Caulfield City Council to identify historic buildings within the City of Caulfield that warranted the protection of a National Trust Classification. Principal photographer thought to be Trevor Hart, member of Caulfield Historical Society. Most photographs were taken between 1966-1972 with a small number of photographs being older and from unknown sources. All photographs are black and white except where stated, with 386 photographs over 198 pages. HISTORY:-- From Victorian Heritage Database citation for Labassa https://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/278 as at (26/10/2020) Labassa, Caulfield is one of Melbourne's most lavishly decorated nineteenth century mansions. It resulted from the extensive remodelling in 1890, of an earlier house, known as Sylliott Hill, which was begun in 1862-3 for lawyer, Richard A. Billing. The land at the corner of Balaclava and Orrong Roads was first acquired in 1854 by William Lyall, transferred to his partner, John Mickle, in 1859, who also acquired the adjoining allotment in Balaclava Road, and the three allotments were conveyed to Billing. His first eight-roomed house was extended significantly in 1873 into a twenty-roomed house by architects Crouch and Wilson, who were possibly also responsible for the first house. This reflected Billing's success as a barrister, and he resided at this property until his death in 1882. In 1883 prominent Melbourne businessman, Alexander William Robertson, leased the Sylliott Hill property from Billing's widow, and in 1885 he purchased the adjoining allotment in Balaclava Road. He purchased the Billing's property in 1887 and renamed the 6.31 hectare property, Ontario. In 1889-90, Robertson commissioned the German born architect, John A. B. Koch, to extensively remodel the house into a thirty-five roomed mansion. The existing house was extended and altered, largely resulting in the nineteenth century mansion as it now appears. After Robertson's death in 1896, the house was tenanted until it was eventually sold to the mining millionaire, John Boyd Watson, in 1904. He renamed the property Labassa and carried out repair and re-decoration work to the house. In the early twentieth century, many large estates were subdivided into smaller allotments as the demand for land grew and it became difficult to maintain such large estates. After Watson's death in 1911, portions of the Labassa estate were offered for sale, with Mrs Watson retaining a 1.73 hectare portion containing the house. In 1913 forty-six allotments were auctioned at Labassa Estate, with the formation of Labassa Grove and Ontario Street to the east of the property. Labassa was first recorded as containing flats in 1923 and in the late 1920s, the owner, Robert Hannon, built a red brick block of flats adjacent to the house. Subdivision continued, until the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) purchased the house in 1980 and subsequently purchased adjoining sites, one to the south-east in 1984 (house demolished in 1988) and to the west in 1988. Labassa as it now stands is substantially as it appeared when Koch completed the work in 1890. The original two storey house was transformed into a French Renaissance style mansion, with the addition of a two level L-shaped arcaded verandah and two prominent terminating bays to the south and the east. The building is of unpainted cement render with dressed bluestone plinths, balustraded parapet and steep, slate covered, flat topped mansard roofs behind. A truncated conical roof is a feature of the south bay and a helmeted head is incorporated in the parapet over the east bay. The main south and east facades incorporate many cast cement details, including sculptures, elaborate cornices, swagged Corinthian columns and caryatid consoles flanking the entrance porch, as well as pink marble panels and imitation marble, or scagliola, on curved surfaces. At the rear of the building is a two storey wing and a single storey cottage, the former being connected to the main house by a tower. This section of the house was constructed in 1873. The estate at its peak included stables (1873), conservatory (probably 1890) and a tennis pavilion (probably 1890). All of these outbuildings survive, with the stables and conservatory being converted for residential use after 1922. Internally a range of decorative treatments remain from the late nineteenth century and the early twentieth century, both from the Robertson and Watson periods of occupancy. These include wallpapers, ceiling decoration, chimney pieces, mouldings, joinery and decorative glass.From Victorian Heritage Database citation for H0135 Labassa 2/2A Manor Grove Caulfield North https://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/278 as at (26/10/2020) HOW IS IT SIGNIFICANT? Labassa, Caulfield is of architectural, aesthetic and historical significance to the State of Victoria. WHY IS IT SIGNIFICANT? Labassa, Caulfield is of architectural significance as the most prominent example of a small number of houses built in Australia in the French Renaissance style. It is of further note due to the German interpretation of the style and the use of Hellenistic sources, via Germany. It is exceptional for its lavish treatment externally, including marble, scagliola, caryatids, swagged columns, mansard roofs and ornamental cresting. Labassa is of architectural significance as the most important surviving example of German architect, John Koch's domestic work. He undertook a large variety of work in Melbourne, including a number of houses, however Labassa is the most lavish example of his work. Labassa is of aesthetic significance for its outstanding assemblage of late nineteenth and early twentieth century European style interior decoration, which remain remarkably intact. These include a trompe l'oeil ceiling, painted ceilings, embossed imitation leather and other papers, chimney pieces, ceramic tilework, oak parquetry and stained glass, including a tripartite window by Ferguson and Urie, probably dating from the 1873 period. Labassa is of historical significance as an illustrative example of the wealth acquired by a number of prominent Victorian families in the second half of the 19th century. The early development of the property, Sylliott Hill, was due to the wealth acquired by Richard Billing, barrister and fifth Victorian to be appointed Queen's Counsel in 1878. The significant development in 1890 of Ontario, is illustrative of the wealth of Alexander Robertson, a partner in Cobb and Co., a director of Goldsborough Mort & Co., and a pastoral speculator. John B. Watson, whose father had acquired great wealth from the goldfields of Bendigo and subsequently invested in city and country properties, was the third resident to impact on the house, particularly the interiors. The Labassa estate is of historical significance as an illustrative example of the development that occurred in such suburbs as Caulfield in the 1880s due to the land boom, its proximity to Melbourne and the establishment of the Melbourne to Gippsland railway in 1879. It is also illustrative of an estate which succumbed to the pressures of subdividing in the early twentieth century, as properties became difficult to maintain and demand for land close to the city grew. It was typically divided into flats in the 1920s and was used as such for about sixty years. It is of historical significance for its associations with the remnants of the earlier estate which remain extant. These include the stables, conservatory (H2005) and tennis pavilion which all remain on separate sites. Also significant are the remains of early electrical wiring and fittings. Labassa was one of the first houses in Caulfield to be electrified and some of the original wires remain. [Online Data Upgrade Project 2004]Page 129 of Photograph Album with three landscape photographs of Labassa. One of the photographs is of Labassa's drive and gates.Handwritten: 4 JUNE 1910 / SALE JUNE 28 1910 "LA BASSA' / "AUSTRALASIAN" FORMERLY "ONTARIO"/ RES OF JOHN B WATSON / 15 ACRES 3 ROADS [under bottom left photo] / 4 JUNE 1910 [under bottom right photo] / 129 [bottom left]trevor hart, bracketed eaves, intricate lacework, slate roof, bay windows, decorative brackets, caulfield north, labassa, richard a. billing, balaclava road, orrong road, sylliott hill, william lyall, crouch and wilson, alexander william robertson, ontario, 1880's, john a. b. koch, mansion, john boyd watson, labassa grove, french renaissance style, l-shaped arcaded verandah, bluestone plinths, balustraded parapet, flat topped mansard roofs, conical roof, elaborate cornices, corinthian columns, caryatid consoles, marble panels, imitation marble, scagliola, tower, conservatory, stables, tennis pavilion, mouldings, decorative glass, caryatids, swagged columns, ornamental cresting, trompe l'oeil ceiling, embossed imitation leather, oak parquetry, stained glass, tripartite window, triple window, ferguson and urie, 1870's, flats, 1920's, electric wiring, 1860's, verandahs, curved windows, arched windows, italianate, terraces, gargoyles, ornamentation, ornate entrance, la bassa, manor grove, st kilda east, gates, cast iron work, richard billing, architects, john koch, electrification, victorian style, drives, john mickle, land subdivision, mrs watson, labassa estate, robert hannon, national trust of australia (victoria), sculpture

This photograph is part of the Caulfield Historical Album 1972. This album was created in approximately 1972 as part of a project by the Caulfield Historical Society to assist in identifying buildings worthy of preservation. The album is related to a Survey the Caulfield Historical Society developed in collaboration with the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) and Caulfield City Council to identify historic buildings within the City of Caulfield that warranted the protection of a National Trust Classification. Principal photographer thought to be Trevor Hart, member of Caulfield Historical Society. Most photographs were taken between 1966-1972 with a small number of photographs being older and from unknown sources. All photographs are black and white except where stated, with 386 photographs over 198 pages. WHAT IS SIGNIFICANT? [From Victorian Heritage Database citation for Former Labassa Conservatory - H2005 Victorian Heritage Register http://vhd.heritage.vic.gov.au/places/result_detail/12504 (25/01/2021)] The former Labassa Conservatory is believed to have been built as part of the extensive reworking of the Labassa estate in c1890 for the new owner Alexander Robertson, proprietor of the Cobb and Co line. Robertson commissioned the architect JAB Koch to remodel the house, and Koch may have been responsible for the conservatory as well. Alternatively, the conservatory may have been imported. The gates installed at Labassa in 1890 were manufactured by the MacFarlane foundry of Glasgow, Scotland, a firm known to have manufactured conservatories. Around 1917 the glass house from 'Labassa', Caulfield was offered for sale to Malvern Council for its own gardens but the offer was declined. Following subdivision of the Labassa estate in the 1920s the conservatory was converted into a residence. The structure has a simple rectangular plan, with a brick base and superstructure of cast iron columns and roof trusses. The hipped roof is surmounted by an elaborately decorated gable structure. Most of the original glass has been replaced by metal sheeting. The decoration comprises pressed metal fascias including an egg and dart style cornice moulding, mullion mouldings and gable end panels with a rising sun motif. Cast iron ridgework and finials add to the lively roof form. Internally the floor appears to have been raised as part of the conversion work to a residence, and stained timber panelling introduced to provide room spaces. Boilers probably heated the conservatory in the colder months, but these do not survive.From Victorian Heritage Database citation for Former Labassa Conservatory - H2005 http://vhd.heritage.vic.gov.au/places/result_detail/12504 (25/01/2021) HOW IS IT SIGNIFICANT? The former Labassa Conservatory is of historical and architectural significance to the State of Victoria. WHY IS IT SIGNIFICANT? The former Labassa Conservatory is historically significant for its associations with the Labassa estate. Subdivision of the estate separated a number of outbuildings from the mansion. The former conservatory is significant as part of the large scale improvements carried out to the estate in the 1890s. The nineteenth century was the great age of conservatory designs, enabled by technological developments in heating, glazing and iron. Whilst conservatories were common in botanical gardens and universities, where they were primarily used for cultivating, studying, and experimenting with plants, they had also become an accessory of the wealthy on private estates. The former Labassa conservatory is architecturally significant as a rare example of a building type. Many Victorian mansion houses had attached conservatories, but detached conservatories were much less common. The only other detached example associated with a residence known to survive on its original site in Victoria is an earlier example at Warrock homestead, near Casterton. Conservatories attached to nineteenth century mansions are far more numerous. The Labassa example is very ornate, and its decoration draws on the versatility of pressed metal and cast iron. This highlights the dual purpose of the conservatory, as both a functional structure and a picturesque building on the Labassa estate. This building is unusual as an example converted to residential use. Page 130 of Photograph Album with one portrait photograph of Labassa's conservatory.Handwritten: "Labassa" conservatory 21 Manor Grove [top right] /130 [bottom right]bracketed eaves, caulfield north, labassa, balaclava road, orrong road, sylliott hill, alexander william robertson, ontario, john a. b. koch, john boyd watson, mouldings, 1920's, la bassa, manor grove, st kilda east, architects, john koch, greenhouses, gardens, plants, land subdivisions, gates, macfarlane foundry, brick, cast iron work, hipped roofs, gables, 1890's

This photograph is part of the Caulfield Historical Album 1972. This album was created in approximately 1972 as part of a project by the Caulfield Historical Society to assist in identifying buildings worthy of preservation. The album is related to a Survey the Caulfield Historical Society developed in collaboration with the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) and Caulfield City Council to identify historic buildings within the City of Caulfield that warranted the protection of a National Trust Classification. Principal photographer thought to be Trevor Hart, member of Caulfield Historical Society. Most photographs were taken between 1966-1972 with a small number of photographs being older and from unknown sources. All photographs are black and white except where stated, with 386 photographs over 198 pages. From Glen Eira Heritage Management Plan 1996 by Andrew Ward: In 1905, most of portion 27 was vacant land, however Glenferrie Street had been formed and the land subsequently subdivided. In 1906, Robert Joseph Haddon, architect and painter, designed and built for his private residence, a brick house on the west side. Haddon named the house "Anselm". Also built on the property were a garage and fibro cement studio. "Anselm" is architecturally important at the State level as a substantially intact, highly personalised and boldly expressed house expressive the Arts and Crafts movement and incorporating Art Nouveaux enrichment in a variety of forms, the use of ornamental terra cotta tiles to the comer tower being of special note. Its importance at the State level is strengthened by its place as the home of the noted architect and Melbourne's most influential exponent (Freeland, J.M., Architecture in Australia, p. 213) of the Art Nouveaux movement.https://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/4442 Victorian Heritage Register: What is significant? Anselm was designed by noted English born architect Robert Joseph Haddon(1866-1929) as his own house and constructed in 1906. A single storey Arts and Crafts influenced red brick house with attic, Anselm has a pyramidal slate roof with prominent chimney stacks. There is a octagonal corner tower with saucer shaped domed roof surmounted by a weather vane, and the tower has decorative terracotta panels immediately below the eaves line. The front door opens immediately into a large living or common room, screened from view by a timber and bottle glass screen. The large room was designed to function as a drawing and dining room. The house is rich with hand crafted details including door and window furniture, wrought iron gutter brackets, fireplaces (one with built in wood box), and fire tools. The interior decoration includes hand painted frieze of Port Phillip in the study, and a hand painted frieze of turbulent sea with sailing boats in the tiled bathroom. There is a small hand painted tile at the base of the tower which states ?This building was erected AD1906 from designs by Robt J Haddon FRIBA,Lond FRIVA Melb Architect?. He also designed an attic addition which was constructed in 1927. Anselm is substantially intact although the double casement window immediately to the south of the front door was originally circular....Page 60 of Photograph Album with three exterior photographs (one portrait and two landscape) of Anselm.Hand written: 4 Glenferrie Street [top right] / ANSELM 4 Glenferrie St [under top photo] / 60 [bottom right] trevor hart, anselm, art nouveaux, arts and crafts, tower, bay window, glenferrie street, robert joseph haddon, 1900's, terra cotta tiles, double storey, caulfield north, corner tower, gates, cast iron work

This photograph is part of the Caulfield Historical Album 1972. This album was created in approximately 1972 as part of a project by the Caulfield Historical Society to assist in identifying buildings worthy of preservation. The album is related to a Survey the Caulfield Historical Society developed in collaboration with the National Trust of Australia (Victoria) and Caulfield City Council to identify historic buildings within the City of Caulfield that warranted the protection of a National Trust Classification. Principal photographer thought to be Trevor Hart, member of Caulfield Historical Society. Most photographs were taken between 1966-1972 with a small number of photographs being older and from unknown sources. All photographs are black and white except where stated, with 386 photographs over 198 pages. From Glen Eira Heritage Management Plan 1996 by Andrew Ward: In 1905, most of portion 27 was vacant land, however Glenferrie Street had been formed and the land subsequently subdivided. In 1906, Robert Joseph Haddon, architect and painter, designed and built for his private residence, a brick house on the west side. Haddon named the house "Anselm". Also built on the property were a garage and fibro cement studio. "Anselm" is architecturally important at the State level as a substantially intact, highly personalised and boldly expressed house expressive the Arts and Crafts movement and incorporating Art Nouveaux enrichment in a variety of forms, the use of ornamental terra cotta tiles to the comer tower being of special note. Its importance at the State level is strengthened by its place as the home of the noted architect and Melboume's most influential exponent (Freeland, J.M., Architecture in Australia, p. 213) of the Art Nouveaux movement. Victorian Heritage Register https://vhd.heritagecouncil.vic.gov.au/places/4442 What is significant? Anselm was designed by noted English born architect Robert Joseph Haddon(1866-1929) as his own house and constructed in 1906. A single storey Arts and Crafts influenced red brick house with attic, Anselm has a pyramidal slate roof with prominent chimney stacks. There is a octagonal corner tower with saucer shaped domed roof surmounted by a weather vane, and the tower has decorative terracotta panels immediately below the eaves line. The front door opens immediately into a large living or common room, screened from view by a timber and bottle glass screen. The large room was designed to function as a drawing and dining room. The house is rich with hand crafted details including door and window furniture, wrought iron gutter brackets, fireplaces (one with built in wood box), and fire tools. The interior decoration includes hand painted frieze of Port Phillip in the study, and a hand painted frieze of turbulent sea with sailing boats in the tiled bathroom. There is a small hand painted tile at the base of the tower which states ?This building was erected AD1906 from designs by Robt J Haddon FRIBA,Lond FRIVA Melb Architect?. He also designed an attic addition which was constructed in 1927. Anselm is substantially intact although the double casement window immediately to the south of the front door was originally circular....Page 61 of Photograph Album with one exterior photograph (portrait) of Anselm.Hand written: 61 [bottom left] trevor hart, anselm, art nouveaux, arts and crafts, tower, bay window, glenferrie street, robert joseph haddon, 1900's, terra cotta tiles, double storey, caulfield north, corner tower, brick house, attics

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware