Historical information

Purchased by the donor from a Chinese family on a rubber estate in Malacca for 3 pound in 1922. The country was suffering a deep depression owing to a slump in rubber and many wealthy Chinese were in serious financial difficulties and were realising on anything they could.
When the coat was on show at an exhibition the donor was told by someone who had lived in China for many years that it was a very fine example and was possibly 200-300 years old (identified by the cut and fastening of the front panel).
The golden pheasants embroidered on the back indicated it came from a Southern state and from a family of high degree. Some years later it was dated as 17th century.

Physical description

Classical style of garment, very long-sleeved in red silk with coloured embroidery. The symbols belong to a high ranking official, symbols of two white doves embroidered on the back, and also the long sleeves with their decorative embroidered bands of turquoise, blue, pink and yellow. The front of the garment overlaps the right side with five small decorative buttons fastened with loops. The buttons were gold and because of their value they were replaced with identical brass buttons.
Motifs include phoenix, butterflies, birds, pomegranate, flowers and auspicious symbols.
Predominate stitch used is Pekinese Knot Stitch with couched gold outlines of the motifs. The birds and butterflies are worked in satin and long and short stitch.