Historical information

This item is one of a collection of clothing items that belonged to the Stephenson family who lived at 22 McCracken Street, Kensington, Melbourne.
Matthew Stephenson (1861 – 1943) who had grown up on the Bendigo goldfields and shifted to Melbourne in the early 1900’s was a train driver and later, a fireman with the railways. His wife Elizabeth Jane (Betsy) Wigley (1865 – 1953) also grew up on the goldfields around Majorca and Bendigo. They married in 1885 in Bendigo. They had two daughters – Ethel Evelyn Stephenson (1886 – 1956) and Lillian or Lila (1891 – 1977) who were milliners and dressmakers and who continued to live in the family home after the death of their parents. The family are recorded as living at 22 McCracken Street, Kensington, as early as 1914. It is not known who made or owned the clothing that makes up this collection but as it appears to be from the late Victorian and early Edwardian era, the different pieces were probably made and worn by any of the three ladies of the house – Betsy, Ethel and/or Lila.
During W.W.2, a local Warrnambool couple (Meryl and Tony Everard) boarded with them – Tony was in the airforce training paratroopers to jump into (and survive) enemy territory and his wife Meryl worked in the Methodist baby Home. The Everards developed a close friendship with the Stephensons and were responsible for clearing out the house (and finding this clothing collection) after Lila died in 1977.


A petticoat is a lady's undergarment - worn under a skirt or dress. They provided warmth, modesty and shape to the dress.
In the middle of the 19th century, petticoats were worn over hoops, bustles or in layers. Petticoats varied according to the style of the outside skirt or dress. Plain petticoats tended to be worn with everyday wear whilst better dresses (party dresses or silk gowns) were worn with petticoats that often had more trim and embellishments.
Edwardian petticoats had less volume than Victorian era petticoats and they had a "dust ruffle" or lining under a lace flounce. The "dust ruffle" protected the lace flounce and gave the petticoat more flare at the bottom, greater freedom when walking as well as saving the flounce (which was often made of finer material) from everyday wear and tear. Tucks are another feature of Edwardian petticoats - when the lace at the bottom became worn, it could be cut off and the tucks released. This extended the life of the petticoat.

This petticoat features an intricate trim of broderie anglaise. Although broderie anglaise was a lace that could be made by hand, it was very time consuming to make. St Gallen was a city in Switzerland that had become known for producing quality textiles. At the beginning of the 19th century, the first embroidery machines were developed in St Gallen. Factories used embroidery machines but people also had them in their homes. They were able to produce broderie anglaise for export. By the early 20th century, machine made lace, fabric, ribbons etc. were being sold in drapers shops all over England and Wales to women who were making clothes and furnishings for their families. It is highly likely that the lady who made this petticoat brought the lengths of broderie anglaise already made to embellish and personalise her petticoat.

Significance

This item is an example of the needlework skills of women in the late 19th century - creating pintucks and adding lace to personalise and embellish a practical item of clothing.

Physical description

A lady's ankle length petticoat made in three sections. The top section is made from three rectangles of fine cotton (batiste) joined into a round with narrow french seams and inserted into a simple drawstring waistband with a small opening. The second section is made with rows of alternating strips of fine pin tucked lawn, white cotton cut work embroidery and a wider cotton lace design all joined in a diagonal pattern and lined with fine lawn. The bottom section of the petticoat has a horizontal strip of eyelet lace followed by a wider strip of fine pin tucked lawn and is finished with a deep hem of white cotton crocheted lace fabric and has the same lawn lining as the section above.