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Made in Bendigo, Cold Beer!
In 1857 at the height of the gold rush, with people pouring into Central Victoria from all over the world, three brothers from Denmark – Moritz, Julius and Jacob Cohn – founded a small cordial factory in the booming town of Bendigo.
They went on to build an empire and, through introducing lager, which is served cold, to the country, changed the drinking preferences of Australians.
Cordial was a necessity at the time as water was considered unpalatable. The Cohn cordial products were successful and the brothers went on to produce other staples such as fruit preserves. The Cohn Brothers were canny businessmen and at the peak of their success Cohn products were sold across the country and exported to the United Kingdom and Asia. The brothers went on to hold prominent positions on the local Council, and were part of the group that founded the Bendigo Land and Building Society, which became the Bendigo Bank.
Traces of the impact that Cohn products had on the daily lives of Australians, particularly those in Central Victoria, can be found in vintage bottles, wooden crates and signs that have been collected and preserved.
The legacy of their business and civic activities are told through interviews with their descendent, Helen Bruinier, Bendigo Art Gallery Curator, Sandra Bruce, and Frank Barr, the sign painter of the Cohn’s Cordial sign in Bridge Street, Bendigo.
Film - 'The Cohn Brothers' Story', 2011
Courtesy of Wayne Tindall
Film - 'The Cohn Brothers' Story', 2011
Helen Bruinier: I thought I should really start when they left Denmark, because there'd been wars in Denmark and in neighbouring countries.
When they came back from the war there wasn't enough employment for everyone, not enough opportunities, so these men decided - three of them - that they would migrate to Australia 'cause they had heard about the gold rushes and there was wealth to be made.
And then they decided that they would build a hotel and they built the Criterion Hotel. By the end of 1854, they had three hotels.
Sandra Bruce: People are really going to be quite surprised because they really may not know terribly much about the Cohns given that their business, I guess, sort of disappeared from the public back in the 1970s.
It's going to come to a point where there's going to be generations that weren't aware of how prominent they were and exactly how important they were not only to the locals but also to Australia, Australia as a growing nation.
Helen Bruinier: They had a sense of adventure and a sense of purpose and they actually walked from Melbourne. In 1857, they established a proper company with a partnership and they built a brewery.
When he finished his schooling, my grandfather was only 16 but he was sent to Europe to be educated in brewing and he went to the Worms Brewing School which is part of the Worms University on the Neckar River in Germany.
What he learned was lager, that it must be served cold but when he got back, they built the iceworks which is, the building is still there in Water Street in Bendigo.
Sandra Bruce: They grew into a business that owned hotels all over the place, they were the primary beer brewers for town, they were the first ones to bring lager to Australia so if it wasn't for them, we probably wouldn't have chilled beer which is very important. (laughs)
Helen Bruinier: Jacob had the policy that you would buy hotels or finance people to buy hotels or in other ways tie them up financially so that preferably to own the hotel because they became a tied house where you could only buy their beer, their tomato sauce, their lemonade.
My father, during the war, he used to try and enlist and they'd send him home again and they asked him to extend his use of the cannery and to do food that could be for army use and he did tomatoes, he'd go and round them all up, out to the jail in the morning on Monday morning and take them out and pick tomatoes to eat. And then my father would have a lot of workers there, putting them in cans.
The bottles for nearly all the big firms were made by a cooperative glass factory in Melbourne. They had a good eye for design. At a certain stage, they used to always have white delivery horses, white trucks, everyone in the factory wore white overalls.
Jacob lived into his 80s so he had a big influence. He was the mayor, a councillor, and he was the mayor of Bendigo. Moritz was a councillor and the mayor of Elmhurst. Moritz and Jacob were founders of the Bendigo, what is now the Bendigo Bank.
Jim Evans: Well, this was done I think in 19... Well, fairly late in terms of Cohn Brothers history, but in the 1960s, and a sign-writer did this terrific sign and because of demolition occurring on that site, the whole thing was uncovered in all its glory, so it was really great.
Frank Barr: I did that job that's on the wall there. I was given a label of the lemonade bottle which of course was only very small and it was my job then to reproduce it in the, well, very large size that it is on the wall.
We've found since the sign was uncovered, there's been a lot of interest in it. I've received lots of photos of different ones I've taken.
I didn't realise that when I naturally painted the thing that it'd be coming back, like, over 50 years later.
Jim Evans: It's the collection of stories that is important. Without them, you have no soul. I mean, without the history, as far as I'm concerned you've got nothing.
Sandra Bruce: It sort of draws the focus away from the metropolitan areas a little bit and I think that's a great thing.
It really shows that Bendigo isn't just known for gold which is obviously a really important part of our history but that we're a lot deeper than that and we contributed so much more to Australia.
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This video tells the story of the Cohn family business.
The legacy of the Cohn Bros business and civic activities is told through interviews with their descendent, Helen Bruinier, Bendigo Art Gallery Curator, Sandra Bruce, and Frank Barr, the sign painter of the Cohn's Cordial sign in Bridge Street, Bendigo.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Commonwealth Lager Bottle', c. 1906, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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This Commonwealth Lager bottle with paper label is very rare. Note that Tasmania is missing from the map of Australia.
Cohns were always ready for a new opportunity such as a special brew for Federation. This bottle utilised the crown seal method of closure, which was introduced in 1906.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Six o’clock Lager', c. 1960s, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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Cohn's 6 o'clock Lager was produced without alcohol so that it could be sold legally after the six o'clock closing time.
Six o'clock closing time was introduced in Australia during WWI, compelling public houses to stop serving alcohol at 6pm. It was designed to improve public morals and support women at home. However, the law inadvertently encouraged binge drinking, which came to be known as the six o'Clock swill.
The label includes the Australian Red Ensign on the left hand sign, which is the flag under which Australians fought in both world wars. You can also see imprinted above the label the bottom of the words "Swan Hill". The Swan Hill factory was established by Leo Cohn in 1923, so this bottle must have been produced after 1923.
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This Cohn Brothers Codd-neck bottle used a marble as a stopper. Children would smash the bottles to retrieve the marble for their games.
The Codd-neck bottle was designed for carbonated drinks in 1872 by Hiram Codd, a British soft-drink maker. The bottles were filled upside down as the pressure of the gas pushed the marble against the washer, sealing in the carbonation. Codd bottles were also used for carbonated alcoholic beverages, such as beer.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Green Bottle with Badge', c. 1964, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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Cohn's products were often transported and delivered in uncovered vans. Cohn's introduced green bottles for their lemonade products following the discovery that lemonade was altered when exposed to sunlight.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Green Bottle with Badge', c. 1964, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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This lemonade bottle, from around 1964, also shows the change from the 32oz to the 900ml measurement, heralding the adoption of the metric system in Australia.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Green Bottle with Badge', c. 1964, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Four Bottles', c. 1964, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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These bottles show different sealing methods: two with screw tops in the centre, and two with crown seals on each side.
The screw top method of sealing was used by manufacturers from the 18th Century and was perfected in the 1920s. The crown seal method of closure was introduced to Cohn Brothers factories in 1906.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Cordial bottles featuring different badges', Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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Bottles were returned, washed and refilled. The bottle on right is slightly defaced by these many return trips.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Soda Syphon', c. 1965, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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In this image the 'Soda Syphon' is pictured with a 6 o'clock Lager bottle.
If you look closely at the 6 o'clock Lager bottle you can see the watermark above the label showing "CB" inside a ring, with "Bendigo" imprinted above and "Swan Hill" imprinted below. The Swan Hill factory was established by Leo Cohn in 1923, so this bottle must have been produced after 1923.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Soda Syphon', c. 1965, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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This Cohn Bros 27oz 'Soda Syphon' featured a ribbed shape.
In this image, the 'Soda Syphon' is on a badged tray with a Cohns coaster, created around 1965.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Soda Syphon', c. 1965, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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Sign - Frank Barr (artist), 'Cohn's Cordial Sign', c. 1954, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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This sign, advertising Cohn's lemonade cordial, was hand painted by Bendigo signwriter Frank Barr. Barr believes he painted the sign around 1954, one of many jobs of this type he performed for Cohn Bros.
Having been obscured for decades by an adjacent building, recent demolition revealed the well-preserved sign, which can be found at the corner of Bridge & Arnold Streets, Bendigo.
Domestic Object - 'Cohn Bros Food & Drink Containers', c. 1968, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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This photograph features various Cohn Bros containers, including a beetroot tin and a plastic sauce bottle.
Beetroot was grown at Cohn's Piambe farm and canned at the Swan Hill factory. It was crinkle, or 'ripple', cut an innovation at the time.
A squeezable plastic sauce bottle was also an innovation for the time. Cohns sold various sources, including: Worcestershire Sauce; Grill Sauce; and Long Way Sauce (named through a family member's observation that "it went a long way").
Container - 'Cohn Bros Wooden Crate', c. 1968, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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This pine crate with a Cohn stamp was used for standing bottles.
Container - 'Cohn Bros Wooden Crate', c. 1968, Bendigo Art Gallery
Courtesy of Julie Millowick
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