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Textiles and Fibre Art
Established in 1968, Ararat Regional Art Gallery has a unique collection of textiles and fibre art dating from the 1970s, '80s and '90s through to now.
The gallery started collecting work in the 70’s arising from Australia’s growing craft movement – including glass and ceramics. A decision was later made to focus the collection on textiles to reflect the region’s historical association with fine merino wool production. The gallery now has over 1,200 items in its collection, with pivotal works by leading Australian and international artists working in fibre and textiles.
Textiles have been woven from fibre to create clothing and other items since prehistoric times. The 1960’s were a time of great change, with feminism entering the general lexicon and encouraging a questioning of the status quo. Initially aligned with 'women’s work', textiles have become a rich field for both male and female artists to examine gendered roles and social mores, as well as the boundaries of artistic practice.
Ararat Regional Art Gallery’s collection provides an invaluable history of textiles and fibre arts, and in doing so, it maps the influential role fibre and textiles have played in extending the boundaries both of visual art and social parameters.
Contemporary works featured in the gallery’s collection continue this tradition, with Lucas Grogan’s hand embroidered quilt offering a critique of contemporary culture.
Featured here are twenty representative works from the gallery’s textile and fibre art collection. Watch a video to learn about the history of Ararat Regional Art Gallery’s collection and see works by artists John Corbett (Australia), Olga de Amaral (Columbia), Tony Dyer (Australia), Kate Just (USA/Australia), Sebastian Di Mauro (Australia) and Yvonne Koolmatrie (Australia/Ngarrandjeri).
Film - Singing Bowl Media, 'Textiles & Fibre Art: Ararat Regional Art Gallery', 2013, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Singing Bowl Media
Film - Singing Bowl Media, 'Textiles & Fibre Art: Ararat Regional Art Gallery', 2013, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
[MUSIC PLAYING]
Ararat Regional Art Gallery was established in 1968 by the Ararat community. And it was operated by the community until 2005, when Ararat Rural City Council took over the running of the Gallery.
We're one of the few municipalities that's blessed to have a regional art gallery. And it adds to our diversity, and cultural diversity. It adds to the offer that we have that makes us a little bit different to other small rural municipalities.
One of the most exciting things about the Ararat Regional Art Gallery is it has this incredible history as one of the few galleries in Australia to be actively engaged in presenting and promoting excellence in textile art and fiber art practices. We have over 1,200 objects in our permanent collection. But we offer a program which is diverse and changing. So the permanent collection isn't always on display.
So it's exciting to look back to the works that we have from the 1970s, '80s, and '90s. But also to be engaged in collecting and programming the work of artists which are working in really exciting new way.s there's so many younger contemporary artists that are using fiber materials now, that it's such an exciting time to be collecting textile and fiber-based work again.
One of our earliest acquisitions was Hammock by John Corbett. John Corbett became one of Australia's most significant textile artists. This work shows that way that soft materials, and weaving in particular, was used by the artist in to develop and exciting and unconventional approach to sculpture. It's a way which is of its time, but it's also a work which speaks quite strongly to people today.
Coraza en dos Colores by Olga De Amaral is one of the really significant works in our collection. She's an artist of immense international renown. De Amaral was really active during the 1970s and the 1980s in creating large-scale textile wall hangings to soften the public spaces in modernist buildings. And that's really where she established her reputation.
The work really came into the collection at a time when the gallery was new to collecting fiber art. So it was a strong affirmation of the gallery's commitment to establishing a fiber art specialization, not only in Australia, but internationally.
Another significant work from our collection is Tony Dyer's The Tourist Trap. What's interesting about The Tourist Trap is that from a distance it really looks like a painting. But as you get closer you can see that the imagery has been created through very complex dying processes. And there's also an interesting use of stitching and piecing in the work.
It's a work of art which people can respond to in a traditional sense. But also it's clearly very much informed by textile traditions from many different cultures.
Paradise by Kate Just is one of our most significant acquisitions in recent years. Significant in terms of its scale, but also in terms of its importance to the artist's practice. Paradise refers to second generation feminist art, which we hold in our collection. So it makes some really interesting connections to other works that we hold. But it also shows the way that younger artists are returning to practices such as knitting.
Surrender by Sebastian Di Mauro is one of our most recent acquisitions. It's a work that's made from neoprene-- the material that's used to make wetsuits. I was really interested in this work, because we don't hold a lot of three-dimensional works in our collection. So it's a work which pushes a number of boundaries for us. Both in terms of its form, but importantly through the use of an unconventional fiber material.
We had the opportunity to commission a Ngarrindjeri weaver, Yvonne Koolmatrie, to create a large eel trap for our permanent collection. And Yvonne Koolmatrie has being represented widely in public gallery exhibitions, including representing Australia at the Venice Biennale. It's made from woven sedge grass. And when you get close to the work, you can smell that material. So it really gives a strong sense of place. It's a work which refers to aboriginal material culture. It is an eel trap, but also a contemporary sculpture.
When I took the directorship at Ararat, I didn't have a background in fiber art. That's something I've become really passionate about. It's such an interesting field, both in terms of its history, and in terms of the very exciting ways and innovative ways, that artists are now working with textiles and with fiber materials. There's always something that's absolutely fascinating that we on display.
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Singing Bowl Media
Ararat Regional Art Gallery's collection demonstrates the ways artists have used textile materials and techniques to push the boundaries of contemporary practice.
Anthony Camm, Director, Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Paul Hooper, Mayor, Ararat Rural City Council discuss the gallery's internationally significant collection, spanning the heady days of the 1970's through to now. Featured in the video are artworks by John Corbett, Olga de Amaral, Tony Dyer, Kate Just, Sebastian De Mauro and Yvonne Koolmatrie.
Textile - John Corbett, 'Hammock', 1974, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and John Corbett
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and John Corbett
Hammock by pioneering Australian fibre artist John Corbett was one of Ararat Regional Art Gallery's first acquisitions. The work illustrates the way soft materials and weaving in particular were used by Corbett and other international artists to transform perceptions of sculpture.
John Corbett emerged out of the growing craft scene in Australia, learning to weave by attending classes held by the Handspinners and Weavers Guild. His artistic vision is very much informed by 'post-minimalism' which used unconventional materials in new and exciting ways.
wool, dye, 43 x 213 x 128cm
Textile - Olga de Amaral, 'Corazo en dos Colores', 1973, Ararat Regional Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Gallery and Olga de Amaral
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Gallery and Olga de Amaral
Olga de Amaral was born in Colombia in 1932 and has been hailed as a pioneer of Fibre Art. Her practice draws from her background in architecture and fabric design, combined with her Pre Colombian heritage and strong native weaving traditions.
Corazo en dos Colores ('Heart in Two Colours') is a seminal work of immense scale and complexity. Its acquisition in 1976 boldly asserted Ararat Regional Art Gallery's intention to establish a fibre-art collection of international standing.
Purchased with the assistance of an Australia Council Crafts Board Grant, 1976
Textile - Tony Dyer, 'The Tourist Trap', 1989, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Tony Dyer
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Tony Dyer
Tony Dyer is one of Australia's great textile artists. Dyer rose to prominence in the 1980's when textile art courses were being established at art schools across Australia. He became an important influence and teacher during these heady times when textiles were being established as a bona fide field of art practice.
The Tourist Trap features multiple techniques and materials, including complex dyeing, painting, drawing and stitching techniques. The work is a testament to Dyer's technical virtuosity but also captures his enthusiastic uptake of textile techniques to push the boundaries of image making.
batik on silk, etched drawn images stitched onto canvas, collage with azoic and reactive dyes, stitching, vinyl pain, pigment block print, 152 x 152 x 5cm
Artwork, other - Kate Just, 'Paradise', 2006, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Kate Just
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Kate Just
Paradise by artist Kate Just makes powerful connections with earlier works of soft sculpture in the Ararat Regional Art Gallery's permanent collection - which extend from 1970's craft-based works, to second-wave feminist art, to more recent post-modern investigations into materials and process.
It also reflects the a growing interest in knitting amongst a younger generation of women who are setting up 'knitting circles' in pubs or 'yarn-bombing' public spaces.
hand-knitted, machine-knitted and hand rug-hooked wool, clay, fibreglass, plastic, metal and glue. Dimensions: life sized figure, lawn area: 230 x 280cm
Sculpture - Sebastian De Mauro, 'Surrender', 2007, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Sebastian De Mauro
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Sebastian De Mauro
Surrender is a sculpture created by Sebastian De Mauro from neoprene - a synthetic fibre with the characteristics of rubber which was invented by the Dupont company in 1930 and is today best known for its use in wetsuits.
This work is an example of the way artists are increasingly using unexpected materials and also demonstrates the way the Ararat Regional Art Gallery's definition of fibre or textiles has changed over time.
woven neoprene, fibre glass, plastic mesh, glue, 67 x 102 x 77cm
Sculpture - Yvonne Koolmatrie, 'Large Eel Trap', 2012, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Yvonne Koolmatrie
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Yvonne Koolmatrie
Yvonne Koolmatrie is a pivotal figure in the rise of Aboriginal fibre craft , particularly her role in highlighting the importance of weaving to cultural continuity for South Eastern Australian Aboriginal people.
Koolmatrie's body of work is comprised of woven forms which have their origins in the material culture of the Ngarrindjeri people of South Australia. The artist was commissioned by the Ararat Regional Art Gallery to create this large eel trap as a foundational work, around which the gallery could build a sub-collection of South Eastern Australian Aboriginal art.
woven sedge, 224 x 49cm (variable)
Textile - Lucas Grogan, 'The Universe Quilt', 2013, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Lucas Grogan
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Lucas Grogan
The Universe Quilt is a major textile artwork by Lucas Grogan which took almost a year to make. This large textile wall hanging was painstakingly hand embroidered by the artist and features cultural icons, references to archaeological drawings and self-portraits swirling around a central Palaeolithic fertility goddess, representing the centre of the universe.
The work puts forward a belief in universal humanity, though not far below the surface lurks Grogan's acerbic wit and critique of contemporary culture.
embroidery, cotton thread on black laminated cotton, 200 x 175cm
Photograph: Asa Gauen
Purchased with the assistance of the Robert Salzer Foundation, 2013
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery, Starlie Geikie and Utopian Slumps
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery, Starlie Geikie and Utopian Slumps
Starlie Geikie's Archers (Team 1) is a textile based installation comprising eight "cloaks" presented in close proximity to each other, the dimensions of which reference the rectangular format of a painting on canvas.
The work suggests a phalanx of people, while equally highlighting the absence of the human form. Presence and absence are important conceptual aspects of the work, as is a consideration of the definition of art by its medium - in this case the artist is questioning whether the object is more aligned to painting or fashion.
hand-dyed fabric, cotton thread, leather, 110h x 165w x 10d cm
Textile - Kay Lawrence, 'House / Self', 1989, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Kay Lawrence
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Kay Lawrence
Kay Lawrence wrote about the inspiration for this tapestry in 1989, "A friend had a particularly hard time over a couple of years. She'd changed jobs, ensured a difficult relationship, moved from house to house and finally as she left the state she had to abandon her car of 15 years on the Sturt Highway...She went straight to the weekend papers, checked the real estate, looked at two houses and bought the second one on the spot.
When we went round to have a look there was no key. So she took a burnt stick from the woodpile near the back door and drew a plan on the concrete..rubbbing out the mistakes with her foot. "There", she said, "my house"". Lawrence made eight drawings after the incident in quick succession in late 1988. She selected drawing number seven to translate into this tapestry.
woven tapestry, cotton, wool and linen, 165 x 135cm
Photograph: Terence Bogue
Sculpture - Sue Walker, 'Afternoon Tea in Horsehair', 1975, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Sue Walker
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Sue Walker
Sue Walker is best known as the founding director of the Australian Tapestry Workshop (ATW) from 1976 to 2004. Prior to this, Walker was a fibre artist in her own right. In her history of the ATW, entitled "Artist's Tapestries", Walker compares the spirit of the times and described how these contrasted with aims of the nascent tapestry workshop: "...the aesthetic climate and the lifestyle of the 1970s as reflected in the arts and crafts were free, expressive and back to the earth.
Spontaneous explorations of materials were often taken up as the leading work of the day: the concept of an art that required a high level of technical skill, a finely tuned aesthetic sensibility, and the discipline to work seriously over long house was not in step with the times."
crochet, horsehair, wood, metal, 62 x 77 x 12.5cm
Photograph: Terence Bogue
Purchased with the assistance of the Ararat Gallery Social Committee, 1975
Textile - Julie Montgarrett, 'Fleeter', 1985, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Julie Montgarrett
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Julie Montgarrett
Julie Montgarrett has worked with textiles as a core concern since the late 1970's. She played a pivotal role in the development and validation of textile art in Australia as an artist, lecturer, writer and curator. Fleeter represents a period in the artist's practice in the 1980's when she was concerned with extending the conceptual and spatial possibilities of textile art.
Her major figurative works of this period combine a range of materials and techniques applied to a canvas support. At times both the support and the surface of her works are subjected to cutting, layering, slashing and stitching to create textural complexity and spatial depth. Various materials and traces reveal the artistic processes in her textile constructions.
textile construction: painting, drawing, stitching; canvas, wire, paper and cotton, 156 x 104cm
Photograph by Terence Bogue
Purchased with the assistance of the Ararat Gallery Social Committee, 1987
Textile - Michael Brennan-Wood, 'Journey to Shiloh', 1984, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Michael Brennan-Wood and Ararat Regional Art Gallery
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Courtesy of Michael Brennan-Wood and Ararat Regional Art Gallery
British textile artist Michael Brennan-Wood has has an association with Australia since 1982. He hand been an important influence on the Australian textile and fibre art scene, especially as a teacher in tertiary institutions.
He introduced a process-oriented approach to studio practice, resulting in large scale works of enormous energy and presence. In this work, Journey to Shiloh the artist co-opts weaving's grid of warp and weft in a mixed media wall work that combines painting and sculptural assemblage to challenge the very definition of textile and fibre.
wood, paint, fabrics, paper, copper wire, 180 x 215 x 16cm
Photograph by Terence Bogue
Purchased for the Victorian State Craft Collection with the assistance of the Australia Council for the Arts - Craft Board
Held on long-term loan by Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Vivienne Pengilley and Ararat Regional Art Gallery
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Courtesy of Vivienne Pengilley and Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Vivenne Pengilley's Popish Ducati Trip irreverently foreshadows the rise of quilting and embroidery that would tranform the character of the fibre art movement in the 1980's. This ambitious work, created in 1977, challenged the notion of textiles as lapwork by realising the quilt on a grand scale, on par with artist working on massive canvases in warehouse studios.
Ducati Trip is made from an exotic list of materials. Pengilley transforms a plethora of haberdashery to create this quilt. Relying on her intuition and the feeling of the fabric against her skin, the artist allows her flamboyance to shine through, no doubt reliving and remembering when and where she found each piece of blue shiny taffeta or crushed velvet.
various fabrics, rabbit fur, chrome, mylar, bugle beads, sequins, embroidery, padlock, 240 x 353cm
Photograph by Terence Bogue
Purchased with the assistance of an Australia Council Crafts Board Grant, 1978
Painting - Jenny Watson, 'After a Fashion, with Bag', 2008-09
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery, Anna Schwartz Gallery and Jenny Watson
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery, Anna Schwartz Gallery and Jenny Watson
Jenny Watson began painting on alternative materials such as hessian, velvet, cotton and taffeta in the 1980's. Her use of red velvet in her 1993 Venice Biennale exhibition is a notable example of the use of fabric in her painting practice.
In her work the character of the fabric is never concealed, but instead contributes to the composition and brings what she calls a 'cultural quotient' to the work. The fabric featured in this artwork was purchased by the artist on a visit to India in 2008-09 and the image and text were painted there. The panel reads: "I was staying in a big, old fashioned hotel in India. There were birds, like crows, but bluer, and some of them were quite tame. These ones came down to the pool to drink and paddle, despite people sitting around."
acrylic on rabbit skin glue primed cotton and silk Pashima, 82 x 94cm & 179 x 130cm
Purchased with the assistance of the Robert Salzer Foundation, 2012
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Lucy Irvine
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Lucy Irvine
Artist Lucy Irvine writes about this work: "Covering Ground incorporates the cycles and patterns of landscape with the symbiotic cycles and patterns intimately present within my own life. It was inspired by my experience of a different kind of way-finding: as I considered the crossing of terrain and learning in landscape, I watched my young daughter go from crawling to walking.
The rhythm of the weave, the ever shifting, morphing form became a poetic material counterpoint to how my daughter’s world of knowing shifted as she negotiated the world around her anew. Technically, Covering Ground exemplifies my current weaving methods. My work juxtaposes expansive organic forms with industrially produced, utilitarian materials, primarily nylon cord, irrigation piping and cable ties. Larger pieces, like Covering Ground, are supported by an internal welded steel framework that acts as something of an assault course for the weave. The sculpture evolves in tiny increments allowing the form and concepts to emerge through the process of making." (June 2012).
irrigation piping, cable ties, steel and rust proof paint, 28 x 100 x 62cm (variable)
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Heather Dorrough
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Heather Dorrough
Wool Corporation is constructed from recycled woollen blankets. The old blankets were used to achieve the woolly folds in the sheep’s fleece. The fabric was spray dyed, machine and hand embroidered and appliquéd. An early acquisition, this work strongly represents the link between Ararat Regional Art Gallery’s fibre art focus and the region’s reputation for fine wool production.
Born in England in 1933, Dorrough studied at the Eastbourne School of Arts and the Royal College of Arts in London. She arrived in Australia in 1961 and began exploring the possibilities of fabric collages, exhibiting the initial works in 1965. By 1976 the momentum of the craft movement had grown and a select group of fibre artists were being recognised through commercial gallery representation and exhibitions. At this time Dorrough was exhibiting at Bonython Gallery in Sydney and established her reputation for image making through machine embroidery, which was later pursued by other artists, most notably Annemieke Mein.
Textile - Annemieke Mein, 'Barnacles', 1984-87, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Annemieke Mein
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Annemieke Mein
Barnacles is a sea-themed soft sculpture made from fabric, beads and thread. It was worked in 52 separate parts before all sections were joined together to make a freestanding cluster of barnacles.
In The Art of Annemieke Mein, the artist writes: "...Barnacles is influenced by my pleasurable childhood experiences at the beach...Some people have interpreted this sculpture as a provocative feminist statement, with suggestive labia, clinging babies and coils of hair. Nothing could have been further from my intentions. Yet it is interesting for me to realise that no shape in nature is entirely novel; so many forms are repeated constantly, others only rarely... ...Many reels of unravelled sewing cotton threads were twined and tied in place to simulate the surrounding swirling seaweed...in later years I felt this sculpture needed more ‘oomph’ and a ‘wet from the sea look’. Thus many cream, glass and pearl beads were hand sewn over the surface to catch the light and glisten like water droplets."
silk, wool, cotton, plastic, glass and pearl beads, 26 x 38 x 38cm (irregular)
Photograph: Geoff Parrington
Purchased with donations from visitors to the Annemieke Mein exhibition at Ararat Regional Art Gallery in 2011
Artwork, other - Jean Lange, 'Granary Basket', 1978, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Jean Lange
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Jean Lange
Jean Lange was a pioneering South Australian basket-maker. She began her self-directed study of basketry during World War II when "baskets were difficult to obtain". Lange was one of the first basket-makers to expand the aesthetic and technical potential of basketry and worked to establish it as a recognised craft. She was an important custodian of skill and knowledge and she taught and encouraged many aspiring fibre artists in the 1970s.
In 1978 Jean Lange wrote, "I use mainly leaves from our garden and sedges, rushes, grass or grass stems, willow, runners from creepers etc. I now believe that any material that does not crumble when dry has potential...It is advisable not to be too dogmatic concerning baskets made from natural resources because the time of cutting and the place of growth may affect the end result".
Watsonia leaves, waxed linen thread, 25 x 47cm
Photograph: Terence Bogue
Roma Center, 'Basic Forms in Black and White 1975', 1975, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Roma Center
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Roma Center
Roma Center was an abstract painter, working as Roma Thompson, who bought a loom and taught herself to weave, initially to take a teaching job. Her woven work was included in the National Gallery of Victoria’s, Craft Victoria 75 exhibition which toured to regional galleries.
Center’s work arrived at Ararat Regional Art Gallery in September 1975 and was subsequently acquired for the permanent collection. In the Craft Victoria 75 catalogue, Center applied the term ‘non-traditional tapestry’ to describe her work, which was woven on a treadle loom and would mostly not conform to what we would define as a tapestry today. Center created this non-traditional tapestry one year before the establishment of the Victorian Tapestry Workshop in 1976 - an event that was preceded by tapestry exhibitions at public and commercial galleries and the pioneering efforts of independent artist-weavers, particularly in New South Wales.
Purchased with the assistance of the Ararat Gallery Social Committee
Textile - Kate Derum, 'In the Heat of the Moment', 1998, Ararat Regional Art Gallery
Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Kate Derum
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Courtesy of Ararat Regional Art Gallery and Kate Derum
In the Heat of the Moment was woven on a scaffold loom with a ‘loose’ structure rather than a finished drawing or painting to work from. The tapestry takes the simple structure of nomadic rugs, integrating the patterning associated with rugs and carpets with the pictorial representation of drawing and painting. Small images are boxed around the edge in a patterned border, with the main image of a human face above a dome-like structure in the centre. The composition suggests a tension between personal and public identity and individual liberty versus social/political control.
Kate Derum has said of her Midnight Tapestries series that, “I have used this form to explore the hours of the night. It seems to me that in these hours yesterday, today and tomorrow are for a brief time together. Often when we try to throw light on a subject all that ever comes into sharp focus is the shadows, throwing into high relief the drama and necessity of opposites – public and private, dark and light, male and female, old and new, nature and culture.”
woven tapestry - wool, cotton, linen, 190 x 150cm
Photograph: Terence Bogue
Purchased with the assistance of the Robert Salzer Foundation, 2008