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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Note
... janet amess lace collection... Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.See photocopy. Packaged with items 0011 to 0019"To whom it may concern:- my apologies for this jumble. It is just as it was left to me and i have no knowledge as to whether there is anything of interest or not. Please do as you see fit with it. U Bright."janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, note, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Notes from donor
... janet amess lace collection... Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.2 pieces of notepaper See photocopy Packaged with 0025-26 and 00291) "The effects of my Great Grandmother Janet Amess, wife of Samuel Amess. Dated back to 1850s-60s. Unity Bright." 2) "To whom it may concern. My apologies for the creasing, discoloration and markings but they have inevitably come with age and I hope that someone with the skills to rectify the conditions somewhat can improve them. Thank you very much. U Bright"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, notes, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...This is a section of a machine made embroidered eyelet insertion piece. The holes are made for the insertion of ribbon and it would have been a pretty addition to a petticoat, bed linen or nightwear. The embroidered design is an indicator that perhaps this is later than the 19th century with the use of satin stitch. The edging is a type of fagoting where stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric together or threads are drawn and the gap created is decorated using a strong embroidery thread usually in a herringbone pattern but in a straight pattern in this case. In its most traditional form fagoting was done by removing weft threads and decorating the gap. When a plain linen chemise was your nightwear, it was an easy method for all classes of society to decorate their undergarment.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Length of machine made embroidered eyelet insertion piece.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection.... This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four ...This piece is a style of machine embroidered lace which can be found in haberdashery stores today. It is known as Broderie Anglaise Cambric Eyelet lace. It was made to be sewn either into or on fabric, and the sweet daisy design and ribbon insertion points would have been highly desirable for a child's or baby's dress, or for delicate undergarments. Broderie anglaise was extremely popular in England between 1840 and 1880 for children’s clothing and women’s undergarments. There was a resurgence of popularity in the 1950s. Beginning in the 1870s it was made using the Swiss hand embroidery machine.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidered (Lace Group Embroiderers Guild 1/3/12) See photos (2)janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four ...This is a lovely length of machine made lace trim which combines broderie anglaise diamonds with a subtle embroidered design. It is an insertion trim which would provide an understated embellishment to undergarments, bed linen, children’s clothing and is particularly suited for use on mob caps and aprons. Broderie anglaise patterns and techniques were copied by St Gallen embroidery machines from the 1870s onwards.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.machine length of lace trim with recurring diamond patternsLabel stuck on one end "4 1/2"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection.... This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four ...This 158cm length of machine embroidered broderie anglaise was most likely intended to be inserted into children’s wear, women’s undergarments or as an embellishment for bed linen. It most likely originated in or around the Czech Republic but became extremely popular in England in the mid1800s. Prior to the 1870s broderie anglaise was created by hand either by punching out the holes with an embroidery stiletto and using a fine buttonhole stitch around them or by creating the pattern with stitchery and using scissors to cut out the holes. Beginning in the 1870s it was made using the Swiss hand-embroidery machine and nowadays all broderie anglaise is made by machine.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Machine embroidered length of lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...This is quite a wide machine embroidered lace and could be used to embellish home wear such as a fichu or an apron. It could also be used for bed linen, undergarments or nightwear. It appears to be cotton or possibly linen with a scalloped edge and broderie anglaise style designs included sparingly. On occasion, it was used as an edging over the mantlepiece to shield the stove's heat and steam from the cook's face and protect items on the shelf.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women,.Machine embroidered scalloped edge lace with small embroidered patterns of acorns.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Petticoat
... janet amess lace collection... Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...This elegant petticoat has been made with rows of hairpin crochet interspersed with traditional crochet. Hairpin crochet is worked over a ‘loom’ to keep all of the loops the same length. What a special wedding petticoat this is and perhaps the bride had worked it herself to keep in her ‘hope chest’ or trousseau. The thread used for this project is a machine braid. Note that this is only a half petticoat as the bride would have worn a camisole under the bodice of her gown.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. white petticoat, with crochet trim, and a machine made elasticised waist bandPackaged with note: "Wedding petticoat. Hand crocheted. Handmade button holes. Pure cotton. Machined waist band".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, petticoat, garment, clothing, machine, braid, crotchet -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Blouse, 1970s
... amess lace collection... Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...This bed jacket was, as the enclosed note stated, “probably hand made in Asia” and has been identified as Chinese 20th century by the Lace Group Embroiderers Guild. The insertions at the wrist are very fine handmade Irish crochet with the treble fans and Clones knots visible. The embroidery on the reminder of the jacket has also been executed by hand. Being white work is quite unusual for Chinese embroidery as it is traditionally colourful or monochromatic such as red work or blue as in the willow pattern. Perhaps this was made with the Western market in mind.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess womenChinese 20th C Hand crocheted insertions. Hand embroidery. White blouse/bed jacket.Packaged with note "Light bed jacket. Probably hand made in Asia c 1970 judging by size tag '14'"amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, frances, janet, jane, amess, embroidery, cotton, chinese, hand, crotcheted -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Bed Jacket, Cuff, 1860
... janet amess lace collection... Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...This is a fine cotton bed jacket decorated with beautiful whitework embroidery. Whitework is any type of embroidery where the threads worked are the same colour as the base fabric. It is usually worked on white linen but this could be worked on Hardanger fabric which is 22 thread count cotton. The embroidery is a combination of types but drawn thread work and Hardanger work can be clearly seen on this garment.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Bed Jacket with open frontPackaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess 1860 from Kel Bright collection with separated cuff".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bed, jacket, cuff, garment, clothing, princess, machine, bobbin -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... lace collection... Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...This is another machine lace made using a thicker crochet-like thread, quite possibly cotton judging by the texture. The geometric pattern has been made in the style of Torchon lace and it gives the appearance of softness and comfort. This lace is quite narrow (1.1cm) and was not made as an insertion lace but as a trim. It was most likely used as a trim on children’s underclothing and bed linen. It may have been used as a trim on a mob cap for a maid or a less senior member of the household. This machine made lace would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in Germany in the 1890s and was capable of making perfect copies of Torchon and other simple bobbin laces.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Torchon machine lace, coarse crochet like thread. One fairly straight edge with picots. Other edge has clusters of elongated picots at even intervals. Geometric pattern insidechurchill island, lace, janet amess, lace collection, torchon -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... churchill island janet amess lace collection amess embroidery ...This beautiful piece has been hand embroidered with coloured thread onto a machine made net. The net would most likely have been made on a stocking frame or Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and the intricate handwork appears to be a mixture of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply outlined in thread and then filled in by darning and other stitches. Tamboured lace is made with a very fine metal or bone crochet hook making chain stitch with the net stretched out over a frame. Limerick lace from Ireland is just such a lace where the stitches used on the machine made net vary considerably. According to Pat Earnshaw, a British lace historian, there was one Limerick lace collar that used 47 different filling stitches. The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 when he brought 20 girls from England to set up a lace making school. Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. This delicate example is from the 1920s and was cut from a larger piece which was most likely attached to an item of sleek underwear. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Machine made net with coloured hand embroidery. Cut from larger piecelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, embroidery, tamboured lace, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added ...This is a length of Leavers machine made lace trim (7.6 x 42cm). The body of the lace having no outline on the floral part is Valenciennes in style but with the hexagonal net and outline on the square pattern is Mechlin in nature. It is a fine example of a machine made lace which was very popular and sought after in the late 19th century as a preferred summer lace at the royal courts of Europe.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Length of lace trim, with repeating floral and geometric designs. Shorter section, appears to have been cut from a longer length.lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned ...Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
... janet amess lace collection... to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over ...A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece Border on Net
... janet amess lace collection.... This lace collection was added to and refined over the course ...This machine made net (76cm x 38) is trimmed on the edge with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so proficient in copying handmade lace that it is very difficult to tell if the trim is done by hand or by machine. Tambour lace was the earliest form of Limerick lace and was worked in chain stitch onto machine made net using a very fine crochet hook, so fine in fact that some practitioners used a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the pointed end inserted into a wooden handle.The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. If this pattern is machine made it would have been made using a Bonnaz machine which was later called a Cornely machine. Antoine Bonnaz (1836 – 1915), a silk machine engineer, produced the first successful industrial chain stitch machine. His patent was finally acquired by Ercole Cornely in Paris who developed a hook shaped needle that could make a line of chain stitches. Initially these machines were only available in northern France but they were so popular that they were eventually exported to the rest of the world and are still being produced today. This lace edging is quite fine and would only be about a centimetre in width and so would be subtle in effect, perhaps to be used on undergarments or as a fichu for day wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made net, trimmed with tamboured design in style of Limerick lace.Note in package "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Trim, Black Beaded
... janet amess lace collection... to the early twentieth centuries. janet amess lace collection churchill ...At 11cm in width, this lavishly embroidered lace would have been used as a trim or an insertion piece for evening wear, perhaps as a trim on the bodice of an off the shoulder evening gown. It comprises two layers: a strong base possibly machine made and a fine top layer luxuriously embossed with sequins and bugle beads which was possibly done by hand. It appears to have been made using matte black silk which was known as grenadine and used on the Pusher machine which could only make the pattern and the net. The outline had to be put in by hand. Nottingham stopped making Pusher lace in the early 20th century but it continued to be made in France.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. length of black beaded trim with two layers: machine made lace with hand-stitched overlay of sequins and jet cylindrical beads in abstract designs.Packaged with note: "Black beaded trimming (hand beaded)".janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, sequined, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of women. janet amess lace collection ...This sample of lace trim is Torchon lace in the Cluny style with the geometric pattern and the classic wheat ears/leaves appearing between the filled ‘v’ shapes. At 5cm in width it would be a beautiful trim or insert piece on bed linen and undergarments. It would certainly have been made on a Barmen machine. The Barmen lace machine was developed in Germany on the 1890s. Its bobbins imitated the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it made perfect copies of Torchon and other similar bobbin laces. This style of bobbin lace was the simplest to make and therefore the cheapest lace to buy. In the Elizabethan era the wearing of lace was reserved for the nobility and anyone of lesser standing than a knight who dared to wear lace would be publicly whipped. As the years passed the restrictions lessened gradually and in the late Georgian and Victorian eras ladies of the nobility sought to perform good deeds by teaching women and girls of the poorer classes to make lace and thus it became known as beggars lace. Bobbins were expensive and use was made of animal bones and even fish bones to perform as bobbins therefore another common name was bone lace. Many noble women entered a religious order and these nuns would also teach to skill to willing participants as well as making lace for clerical garments. Although the monarchy restricted the wearing of lace for some time, many royal figures in history did a great deal to popularize it. Two noteworthy examples were Queen Adelaide (1792-1849) and Queen Victoria.(1819-1901).The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made Torchon lace in Cluny style, with geometric patterns and wheat design, probably on a Barman (Swiss) machine. janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, trim, amess, barman, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Black Lace Front
... janet amess lace collection... or by embroidery machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection ...This lace front is another example of Pusher lace using matte black silk called grenadine. The head opening has yet to be cut out and the panel itself was most likely made for a specific garment possibly in a contrasting paler colour to show off the leafy pattern The Pusher machine is a variation of Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and was so called for the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. There appears to be an outline on the leaves which would have had to be worked either by hand or by embroidery machine.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Rectangular section of lace with intricate leaf design and a matte circular section. Designs are reinforced with multiple layers of stitching.Packaged with note: "Black lace "Front" with neckline hole"churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Mob Cap, Budoir
... lace collection... lace collection, which was added to by three successive ...A mob cap was worn over the hair when indoors working and a hat could be placed over it when going outdoors. It was quite reasonable to receive visitors while wearing a mob cap. This cap has been labelled as a ‘boudoir’ cap to be worn over curlers or to keep a lady’s hair in place overnight. It is made of cotton and has beautiful torchon lace inserts with the same lace trim around the edge. This torchon lace is a handmade bobbin lace using soft cotton thread.in a simple design of filled diamonds alternating with spiders. These caps were worn by women in Georgian times and called a ‘bonnet’. The term ‘mobcap’ may have come from the Dutch or French languages but the name was cemented during the French Revolution when most of the revolutionary women were wearing these caps. During the Victorian era they were mostly worn by servants or nurses.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. white cotton mob cap, with central lace section in the form of a crossPackaged with note: "White cotton handmade lace mob cap"lace, lace collection, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bonnet, Baby
... janet amess lace collection... into the braid strip. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which ...This baby bonnet is made of strips or braids of machine made torchon lace crocheted together by hand and the bonnet is lined with silk fabric. There are crocheted rosettes in place which are placed to attach the ribbons. The thread used is possibly rayon which was used from 1915, but is very difficult to distinguish from silk. The Barmen machine would have been used to create the lace strips. It was developed from a braiding machine in the 1890s in Barmen which is now part of Wuppertal in Germany. This machine makes a near perfect copy of torchon lace which it creates in cylindrical form and by strategic removal of threads is flattened into the braid strip.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Strips of machine made torchon lace in a bonnet, lined with silk, and crocheted rosettes for attachments to two lengths of silk for ties.Packaged with note; "Hand crocheted silk lined baby's bonnet" crochet, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, baby, bonnet, amess, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bonnet, Baby
... janet amess lace collection... a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive ...This beautiful little baby bonnet is made of strips of machine made lace sewn together and attached to what appears to be a muslin cap. The lace is torchon and would have been made on a Barmen machine. It was developed from a braiding machine in the 1890s in Barmen which is now part of Wuppertal in Germany. This machine makes a near perfect copy of torchon lace which it creates in cylindrical form and by strategic removal of threads is flattened into the braid strip. These machines could only make one strip at a time and were limited to 120 threads so people used creative ways to display this type of lace. There are purple and white ribbons attached and a damaged embroidery thread around the top of the lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made lace bonnet, with lilac ribbon and a slightly frayed blue embroidered thread.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, baby, bonnet, amess, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Neck Piece
... janet amess lace collection... a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive ...This fine lace neck piece has been applied to the neckline of a garment meeting at the front and was designed to lay flat . Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Neck piece with triangular scallopslace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, neck, piece, garment, clothing, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
... janet amess lace collection... to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four ...This elegant lace collar with reinforced strips was made with machine net and Battenburg lace. It would have been temporarily applied or tucked in to the neckline of a garment to stand erect on the neck. Battenburg lace was popular in the United States in the 19th Century and was made by attaching inexpensive cotton strips on to net as an outline for the design. This type of lace was named after a wedding in the Battenburg family occurred at around the same time for which the patent was applied in Washington DCThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Lace Collar with reinforced strips. Machine net and Battenberg lace. lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, battenberg, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Fichu, attached to band
... janet amess lace collection.... This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four ...This piece consists of Battenburg machine braid tacked onto net which has been hand appliquéd with lace motifs. The lace fichu was worn by ladies to enhance the neckline of garments and to preserve modesty. Many lace fichus were shaped in a large square which was folded in half and draped over the shoulders like a shawl. They were often held in place with a small fichu pin or tucked into the neckline of the dress or under the apron or skirt at the waistline. This small jabot-like example may have been tied at the neckline and tucked into the bodice. It could also have been used at the front of a skirt and tied at the waistline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Battenburg machine braid tacked on to net. Hand appliquéd lace motifslace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, neckband, garment, battenburg, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
... janet amess lace collection... Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three ...A five petal machine made lace collar, this item would be attached to the neckline of a garment and appears to be designed to lay flat although a little starch applied could make it stand up like petals around the neck. The Folk Art style rose between two rosebuds design is simple and outlined in fine black thread as are the scalloped edges of each collar petal The design being embroidered on to net leads one to believe that this was made on a Cornely machine. The Cornely machine had a great impact on the embroidery industry. It developed from hand tambouring and contemporary inventions in the field of sewing machines and was the first single-needle embroidery machine. It was easy to use, could be used in the home or a small workroom and as the mechanism developed it became difficult to distinguish machine from hand sewn. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Cream lace collar with black edging. Rosette pattern and some scalloping around selvage edge. Machine made lacelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, garment, clothing, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Neckpiece, Small
... janet amess lace collection... 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed ...Just 23cm in length, this lovely piece is an example of handmade Maltese silk lace. Maltese lace has an interesting history. It began as a needle lace which was developed in Genoa and in 1530 was brought to Malta and Gozo by the Knights who were sons of noble families in Europe. This was a time of great demand and lace was used in the clothing of men, women, children, and the clergy for its decorative element but also as a sign of wealth and status. In the mid 1800s Lady Hamilton Chichester sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta where they turned the old needle lace patterns to bobbin lace which was much faster. The art of lacemaking is still taught in Malta in evening classes, government trade schools for girls and at the School of the Arts. Maltese lace can be identified by the following characteristics: a) cream silk, b) 8-pointed Maltese cross worked in cloth stitch c) closely worked leaves or ‘wheat ears’ all of which occur in this pieceThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Handmade Maltese silk lace lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, neckpiece, clothing, garment, amess, maltese, silk, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - French Buttons, Crochet
... janet amess lace collection... Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three ...These are handmade crocheted buttons on the original card which indicates that they are from France. French crochet buttons and Irish crochet motifs were learned by watching another person. Then the onlooker specialized in that button or motif repeating it many hundreds of times. These buttons could be used to fasten underwear, jackets or gloves among other things. Crochet developed as a craft from the early 1800s and this development was accelerated by the industrial revolution. Crochet hooks were made from metal, the use of cotton as a suitable and cheap crochet thread came into being after the invention of mercerization (1844); women learned to read leading to patterns being developed and the publication of women’s magazines such as Godeys Lady’s Book (1830), Harpers Bazaar (1867) and DMC Guide to Needlework (1886). Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Hand made French crochet buttons on original card crochet, lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, buttons, french, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive ...This is a beautiful example of Irish crochet lace edging featuring the Clones knot which gives the picot appearance on the bars. Clones knots are made by twisting the crochet hook backwards and forwards many times and working into the same stitch then pulling a loop through and fastening it at the beginning of the knot. Irish crochet comes in many forms and at first glance this lace looks like a bobbin made torchon lace. It is very fine and the thread used is most likely a No. 60 cotton or finer. Being handmade this lace would have been quite expensive and the owner would have wanted it to be seen.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of handmade lace, with reinforced edges and a repeating, abstract motif reminiscent of buds.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... has a large lace collection, which was added to by three ...This length of machine made lace could only be made on either the Raschel or the Leavers machine, however the Raschel only produced an hexagonal ground, therefore we must lean towards the Leavers machine. The pattern in the piece is a copy of a bobbin lace with a plaited octagonal ground. The Leavers machine could reproduce all sorts of grounds, it was very versatile and operated from the mid 19th century until the present day. This lace is quite fine and would look lovely as a trim on a fichu or mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of machine lace with repeating 'spoked wheel' designs, trimmed on one side with a scalloped edgechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine