Cabinet Portrait of a boy and a girl. The girl, Ivy May Muriel Dower (Born 1891 Bendigo, Died 1980.), is seated on a wicker couch and holding a doll. The boy Jack is John Adrian Dower, (Born 1893 Rochester, Died 1952 Paynesville) is standing to the front of the couch and holding a bat? On the back is written: To Grandma (Elizabeth Dower (Born 1833) from Ivy & Jack. Parents of Jack and Ivy are (James Martin Dower Born 1859, Fryers Creek, Victoria and Died 11th October 1942 at Brighton. Mother was Florence Amy Chalmer, Born 1867, Sandhurst, Vic, Died 13th August , Brighton Vic.1953). Dowar, Dunstan and Opie names are related and are associated with Bendigo district. The photo is part of an album with other members not identified as yet. Coincidentally Neville Davies from the BHS has this photo in his family history photographs. Contact Neville for details of who Ivy and Jack and Grandma actually are. Neville Davies provided information for the above.Alan Spicer, Bendigophotograph, portrait, dower family, cabinet portrait of a boy & girl, alan spicer bendigo, dower, dunstan and opie families related. part of an album.

Laminated copy of black and white photograph of Williamstown High School form 3C of 1973On back: Back row L-R: John Meertens, Frank Celeste, Mark Bates, Chris Herbert, Glenn Kershaw, Nicholas Defina Third row: Alan Young, M W Watkins (Teacher), Tahki Hatzimonolis, Michael Piritidid, Anthony Ferguson,Peter Nedeljkovic, Clive Rosewarne,Wayne Brown, Jim Nanos. Second row: George Ibrahim, Robyne Richardson, Sheryl Virgona,Mary Schloetzer, Margaret Sloane, Paul Markopoulos. First row: Deborah Ellwoood, Maria Toucomonavic, Esther Simin, Fiona Fitzgerald, Kathryne Pliatsiari, Karen Fryer, Lesley Hunt, Karen Cartens, Anna Jcincic, Janet Brindley.williamstown high school, class photographs, 1973, form 3c

Negatives from Stawell Photographer. Discarded from Penna Print Ararat. Son contacted and gave approval for Stawell Historical Society to keep them. Only those of a non personal nature scanned. Norm McIntosh Family Seppelts Santa 1982 Lucinda Perkins & David Margetson Tom Williams Family Reunion 28/11/82 Jennifer Parry Merian McMullins & Colin Dennis Jean & Geoff Pickering Wedding Anniversary Moloney Shearing Shed Mini World 1982 Grange Golf Wendy Simpson Family Brian Russell Family High School Reunion Committee 16/10/1982 Jean Woods Colleen Bates Family Maldon – Nell Stewart Copies – Great Western Hotel 25th Celebration Town of Stawell Lou de Clifford Train & Koalas Lyall Family Jennie McIntosh & Steven Warren Melbourne Cup 1948 Emery & Cameron Carol Frencham Heather & Col Fielding Wedding Longmore Trucks Sue Marsden & Peter Robb Meryl Clarke & Max Metcalfe Stawell Bowling Ladies Dr A Gray & Family Glen Comp Claim Dianne McAdie & Brian Jones Landsborough Crowlands Schools 82 Colour negatives of families, weddings and other. Nineteen Lever Arch Folders Mick Walsh 52 Patrick Street Stawellphotography

The nine postcards in this set were donated together and date to the early 1900s. All but one postcard in this set shows images of Warrnambool, in the Western District of Victoria; the other has a London image. The postcards were all printed in Great Britain according to that country’s postal regulations. The fronts of all cards have titles printed in red. Most of the images on the cards are attributed to photographer Joseph Jordan and belong to the Jordan Series. The back of these cards has an outline for a postage stamp, a vertical dividing line and a heading on each side of the line to separate the Correspondence from the Address. Postcards or ‘correspondence cards’ appeared in Britain in 1894. They were plain cards with a space for the message on one side and an address on the other; regulations didn’t allow anything but the address to be written on the ‘address’ side. In 1902 the British regulations then allowed a picture to be printed on the front and the address on the back, so messages had to be written on the picture side. Soon, the regulations changed and the back was divided for a message and the address. Pliiar Caves, near Warrnambool – The formation at the front of the cave resembles the pillars of a porch, giving the cave its name. Local social media discussion locates the caves near Lake Gillear, east of Warrnambool. The area was popular with young lads as a place to explore and to go rabbiting. The caves in this area are home to colonies of bats and have been a source of bat feces or bat guano, which is an enriching additive to soil. The 19th century sailing ships in the Nitrogen or Guano trade collected large quantities of guano from caves and popular bird nesting locations to sell as a rich fertiliser, due to its high nitrogen and phosphorus properties. Joseph Jordan - Joseph Jordan was born in 1841 in Leicester England. When he was 16 he joined the 7th Queen's Own Hussars and was sent to India at the outbreak of the mutiny. He took part in the relief of Lucknow and remained in India for eleven years. It was during this time that he became interested in photography. He was posted to New Zealand and later came to Victoria, becoming a sergeant major of the Mounted Rifles. In the mid-1880s he came to the Western district where he was responsible for establishing units of the Mounted Rifles in various country towns such as Dunkeld, Mortlake, Panmure, Bushfield, Koroit etc. He resigned from the army in 1889 and set up a professional photography studio in Liebig Street, Warrnambool. He became very well known in the Western District for family photographs, official photographs of local councillors and groups as well as views of local scenery. In 1891 he photographed the wrecked barque ‘Fiji’ at ‘Wrecks Beach’ near Princetown. His business was taken over by his son Arthur around 1917. Joseph was a keen rifle shot and in 1924 he donated the "Jordan Shield" as a prize to the Victorian Rifle Association. He was made a "Life Honorary Member" of the Warrnambool Returned Soldiers League and in 1933 he was recognised as being the oldest living soldier in Victoria. Joseph died in 1935 aged 95.The image of the Pillar Caves rock formation with figures on it suggests that the location was a popular place to visit. The choice of subject for this postcard indicates the popularity of Warrnambool's natural environment as a tourist attraction at a time when ships called coastal traders brought passengers and cargo to the Port of Warrnambool from ports along Victoria's southwest coast. The presence of bats in local caves also connects the postcard to the 19th century Nitro Trade and Guano Trade, when bat guano was collected and sold for plant fertiliser around the world. Joseph Jordan is a significant figure in Warrnambool history as he helped to establish early units of the Mounted Rifles (G Company) in local towns during the late 1880's and later, photographed local scenes, groups and citizens of early Warrnambool.Postcard, one of nine, landscape orientation, coloured print within an oval border and mauve-toned shading. The cameo image shows figures on the high, grass-topped cliff, one between the likeness of pillars in the cave entry, and others walking on the rocks nearby. The background below is rough ground. There is no correspondence written on the card. The back has inscriptions and outlines for a postage stamp. Jordan Series, printed in Great Britain.Front, in red: “PILLAR CAVES, NEAR WARRNAMBOOL” Back in black: “Jordan Series” “POST CARD” “PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN” “For correspondence” “The Address only to be written here”flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, maritime museum, warrnambool, great ocean road, warrnambool and district, warrnambool scenes, local scenes, views of warrnambool, joseph jordan, jordan series, jordan photography, postcard, souvenir, correspondence, cameo postcard, landscape, rock formation, pillar caves, pillars cave, lake gillear, rebbiting, bats, guano, nitro trade, fertilizers

Light green program for the Bendigo North Primary School ball held on Thursday, 19th August, 1982 at the White Hills Technical School. Front page has drawings of a spider, moon, star, cat, bat, cooking pot, a witch on a broomstick above outlines of buildings. Name, venue, date and admission price on the front. The centre has the names of the dances and some information about the 'Danse Macabre'. The back has the Acknowledgements to: Judy Hasty, Graham Balaam, Lloyd George, Julie Gillick, Brian Hillman, Roger Hillman, Di Milich, Noel & Heather Ridge, David Tunley, Lexie Ottery, Ian McKenzie, Leslie Campbell, Jeanette Clancy, Merryn Gerrand, Mr & Mrs Ken Gilbee, Jenni Hillman, Janet Holland, Elizabeth Lakey, Val Lee, L Alyss Liiv, Jude Milner, Kerryn Monro, Ken Miles, Laurene Rothenberger, Ruth Roberts, Ruth Sloan, Kaye Trimble, Darren Eastwood, Olga Chafer, Coral McClure, Deanne McNeil, Jenny Mollison, Robyn Murphy, Jane Pattinson, Helen Penna, Neil Ross and Richardsons' Fernery.Bendigo North Primary Schoolentertainment, dance, ball, peter ellis collection, bendigo north primary school, white hills technical school, ridge, judy hasty, graham balaam, lloyd george, julie gillick, brian hillman, roger hillman, di milich, noel & heather ridge, david tunley, lexie ottery, ian mckenzie, leslie campbell, jeanette clancy, merryn gerrand, mr & mrs ken gilbee, jenni hillman, janet holland, elizabeth lakey, val lee, l alyss liiv, jude milner, kerryn monro, ken miles, laurene rothenberger, ruth roberts, ruth sloan, kaye trimble, darren eastwood, olga chafer, coral mcclure, deanne mcneil, jenny mollison, robyn murphy, jane pattinson, helen penna, neil ross, richardsons' fernery

This dressing gown belonged to Clara Johnstone Miller (nee Bell, 1866-1910). Clara was the only daughter of Mr James Bell, a councillor of the Shire of Leigh (today a part of Golden Plains Shire) and owner of Woolbrook Homestead in Teesdale, near Geelong. In 1888, Clara married prominent businessman, racehorse owner, racing identity and pastoralist Septimus Miller (1854-1925). Septimus was the sixth of seven children born to Henry 'Money' Miller and Eliza Miller (nee Mattinson). 'Money' Miller was a well known financier and politician and reputedly one of Australia's wealthiest people in his time. In 1889, Clara and Septimus moved into the house 'Cantala' in Dandenong Road, Caulfield, where they hosted lavish receptions for Melbourne's elite. Clara was known as a stylish hostess who wore elegant imported fashions. This dressing gown is believed to have been manufactured by Japanese silk merchant Shiino Shōbei. Following the opening of the port of Yokohama to foreign trade in 1859, Shōbei began producing western-style silk garments, initially selling them to foreigners living in Japan and later exporting them around the world, even exhibiting at the Melbourne International Exhibition of 1880. His popular exports included quilted 'at-home' gowns or dressing gowns similar to this one. They had one child, Gwendoline Stewart Miller, who died in 1902 at the age of thirteen of diabetes - a largely untreatable condition at the time (insulin would not be discovered until 1921). Clara died in 1910, aged only 44. Septimus subsequently married Helen (nee Henderson), with whom he had a son, Ronald (1915-1990). The Millers were buried in the Brighton General Cemetery in a large Gothic-style vault. Upon Clara's death, Septimus sent much of her clothing and Gwendoline's to her mother Mary Bell. Some of these items were passed down to two of Clara's nieces, Miss Mary Bell and Mrs Lois Lillies, who donated them to BHS around 1973.A hand stitched purple pink silk quilted dressing gown with pale pink embroidery from circa 1894. The dressing gown is embroidered from the collar and shoulders though the centre front body to just above the hemline, on the cuffs and remaining pocket in a pale pink Perle thread embroidery featuring leaves and flowers. The entire gown is hand quilted with vertical parallel lines. The gown's neckline features a flat collar and the sleeve head fits on the neat shoulder line. The sleeve head is gathered and full tapering to a loose flat cuff at the wrist. The front of the garment is currently secured by fourteen decorative frogs of two different styles, none of which appear to be original. There is also evidence of a fifteenth toggle that has been removed from the base. The gown's original left hand pocket has been removed and attached to an area around the right breast presumably to patch a hole or obscure some damage. It is unknown when these modifications have been made. The back of the gown features a gathered pink and black concertina pleated silk insert panel from the neck through to the base of the garment. The garment is lined with a very fine pale pink silk over the woollen batting.clara miller, woolbrook, septimus miller, cantala, gwendoline miller, caulfield, brighton general cemetery, shiino shobei, s. shobey

Black and white photograph - Grade 2A, 1955"Attached to photograph" Back Row- L to R: Neville (?), ?, Robert Neave, Douglas Ford, ?, Richard Schurmann, ?, ?, Peter Lewis, Leonard (?), ?, Bill Slater, Geoff Williams. 2nd Row - L to R: Annette Crane, Karen Whitehorse, Cheryl Culmer, ?, Pam Cupples, Heather McKenzie, Francis Patterson, Judy Mitchell, Helen Ringrose, ?, ?, Lorraine McCubbin. 3rd Row - L to R: Rosemary (?), Pat Elliot, Shirley Roney, Judy Caughey, Diane Browning, Judith Whitford, ?, Susan Edwards, Kaye Rutherford, Jenny Thompson, Beverley World, Carol Moore. Front Row - L to R: ?, Jeff Young, ?, ?, ?, roger Vass, Nick Bates, Stuart Brown, David Beith, Neil Clutterbuck, Chris Bronner. Teacher:

John Hughes was Awarded the Military Medal: "for conspicuous good work during operations at/ GIRD TRENCH, near LE SARS, on 14.11.1916./ This N.C.O. was in charge of a party of men engaged in digging a communication trench from/ our jumping off trench to the newly captured GIRD TRENCH. He displayed great courage and coolness under very heavy fire, and his personal efforts were mainly responsible for the completion of the task allotted to his party."// Service number: 3044 Rank: Lance Sergeant Unit: 2nd Pnr Bn Service: Army Conflict: First World War, 1914-1918 Award: Military Medal Date of London Gazette: 22 January 1917 Location in London Gazette: Page 836, position 34 Date of Commonwealth of Australia Gazette: 29 June 1917 Location in Commonwealth of Australia Gazette: Page 1395, position 37A framed embroidered cushion cover from WW1. Sent or brought home by Lt. Jack Hughes. Contained within the same frame is a paper clipping and a photo.1.Cushion cover: from the top down- Egypt.... 1914/ Rising Sun/ scrolls with Australian Commonwealth/ Military Forces/ Aust Div Train/ Palestine Sinai Syria/1919. 2.Newpaper clipping with photo: John Hughes (left) 81, and Hugh Mont/gomery, 87, are the two oldest veterans who/ will be taking part in the Frankston ANZAC/ Day March on Tuesday. Mr Hughes served/ in France and Belgium in WW1 and/ in Darwin in the Second World War. He is a/ holder of the Military Medal./ Mr. Montgomery served with the 29th Bat/talion AIF in France during WW1/ Both men have been residents of the RSL park War Veterans Home for the past eight years.// 3. Photo: Mr. John Hughes.belgium, france, ww1, lt, mm, jack, hughes

Following World War One, the present Memorial Gates at the front of the Lara Recreation Reserve (opposite the service station), were erected and the names of 104 men and woman who enlisted from Lara Districts were added. Twenty four paid the supreme sacrifice. They were erected at a cost of £380 by Barklamb Brothers of Caulfield. His Excellency The Governor Lord Somers officially opened the gates on 22 December 1929. RSM Cadwell was in charge of the program. The ceremony involved a large gathering where Lord. Names on Gates of WW1 Veterans Listed below - Following World War One, the present Memorial Gates at the front of the Lara Recreation Reserve (opposite the service station), were erected and the names of 104 men and woman who enlisted from Lara and districts were added. Twenty Four paid the supreme sacrifice. His Excellency The Governor Lord Somers officially opened the gates. RSM Cadwell was in charge of the programme. Sommers inspected a guard of honour from the 23rd Battalion (City of Geelong Regiment). In addition to a parade of returned soldiers, music was provided by the Geelong City Band. Names on Gates of WW1 Veterans Listed below - Andserson W.A. Fry J.F. Mullins M. Bates J. * Gabrielson E. * McDonald H. Bates G. Gardiner H.A. McDonald G. Beggs J.S. Gibbons H. * McHarry E.J. Bennett E.J. (3755) Gibbons W. McEwan G. Beardsell T. Gibbons G. McIntyre J.L. (3421) Branch W.J. (3029) Grass E.J. (687) McIntyre J.W. (7049) Callaghan C. Grass C.H. McIntosh J. Carter W.J. Groves H. McKellar G. Cashmore J.A. Harris W. McLeod R. Cashmore F.J. Heal H. P. (1134) Nicholls J. Cashmore A.G. Heal F.W. (1135) Olive C.A. * Cashmore A.J. Heal E.L. (1133) Oliver D.H. Chirnside J.L. Heyward F.C. * Owens S.J. Clayton J.H. * Heyward W. O'Neill J. Connop J. * Hill E.J. * Parsons M. Connop E. * Howard H.L. (4138) Parker S. Collins F.H. * Inglis H. Perkins C.E. Collins R.B. * Izon C.E. Shannahan J. Collins H. James R. Spitty C. Collins A. Jenkins W. Steele J. Coogan M.T. * Jenkins H. Tayler R. Curle O. Kee H.K. Tayler W.H. (794) Duggan H.J. * Keneally J. Teesdale V.B. (5241) Duggan R. Kent G.G. Thomas D.H. Duggan T.M. Kortright J. Tregilas S. * Dunn W. Lodge J.A. * Trim A. Dodesmaide F. * Lodge G.L. * Tipping S. * Edols R.W. Lodge T.S. * Turnbull J.W. * Farrelly P. Miller P. * Walker H.D. Farrer R. * Minogue P. Watt W. Firth D.H. * Moodie E. Wembridge W.P. * Firth A.C. Morgan C.E. Sister McNaughton K. Foot M.T. Moroney L.F. (4088) Sister McIntosh S. Foot C.H. * The Supreme Sacrifice Sommers inspected a guard of honour from the 23rd Battalion (City of Geelong Regiment). In addition to a parade of returned soldiers, music was provided by the Geelong City Band. The Memorial Gates are of local heritage significance and are included as Heritage Overlays in the Greater Geelong Planning Scheme,unveiled by the govenor Lord Somers on the 22 dec 1929. Read comments on bottom of photoComprising four square granite piers with central vehicular and flanking pedestrian metal gates.The gates commemorate the names of the 104 men and women of the Lara region who served in World War One.lara, memorial gate, ww1, world war 1, lara recreation reserve, lord somers, rsm cadwell, 1928, monument, 23rd battalion, city of geelong regiment, geelong city band

Written on backing sheet, "St. Mary's School, Bedford Road, Ringwood. 1937-38. Back Row - K. Rodaughan, D. Hannan, ? Ellis, M. Maidment, J. Davern, D. Morphett, ??, J. Kiker, J. Nolan, F. Hardidge, A. Orr, W. Steeth. 3rd Row - B. Bates, W. Smith, K. Hardidge, J. Ryan, B. Byrne, P. Stratton, W. Davern, F. Barro, ??, J. Lindsay, A. Smith, ? Pratt. 2nd Row - Byrne, ??, G. Robinson, J. Grey, ? Brown, ??, G. Robinson, J. Grey, ? Brown, ? Brown, ??, ??, K. Ryan, W. Connell, W. Orr, J. Bowles, B. Grey, ??. Front Row - L. Hardingham, P. Gridley, ??, J. Orr, P. Alford, ??, P. Davern, V. Orr".

Black and white photograph - Grade 5A, 1963."Attached to photograph" Back Row- L to R: Russell Borke, John Snellders, Craig Austin, Barbara Donald, Janet Conlon, Diana Rankin, Debbie Lawrence, Russell Paine, Neil Ratray, Gavin Philips. 2nd Row- L to R: Tommy Colston, Greg Peters, Leslie Reed, Jeffrey Taylor, Gary McCubbin, Gary Davies, ?, John Moon, Barry McDonald, Malcolm Pearson, ?. 3rd Row- L to R: Stephen Gross, Neil Dawe, Jeffrey Fielding, David Kennely, Ian (?), Philip Bates, Jeffrey Ratten, David Kimberly, Robyn Hagar, Malcolm Williams. Front Row- L to R: Karen Williams, Debbie Monk, Elizabeth Clarke, Judy Parker, Linda (?), Jan Thompson, Sally Shaw, Cheryl O'Brien, Rosaland Wiggle, Julie Cook, Rhonda McLeod. On Ground: Michael Craddock, David Connell. Teacher:

Black and white photograph - Grade 6C, 1964."Attached to photograph" Back Row- L to R: Greg Peters, David Pumpa, Norman Pearson, Liz Allen, Robyn Henry, Grace King, Deb Lawrence, Jenny Johnson, Linda Chegwiden, Erica Seffers. 2nd Row- L to R: Chris Eastwood, Graham Haglan, Gary Ladegashes, Gary Morgan, ?, Paul Wilson, Wayne Walton, Stephen Foster, Gavin Philips, Barry McDonald. 3rd Row- L to R: Philip Bates, Michael Craddock, Michael Williams, Stephen Cross, Ron Saines, Neil Dawe, ?, Bruce Barber, Robin Hagar, Paul Martin. Front Row- L to R: Lynette German, Lorraine Tann, Linda Willis, Debby Silvy, Judy Parker, Pam Williams, Julie Cook, Glenda Cooper, Jenny Buchanan, Ann Dowling, Sally Shaw. On Ground: Robert Silvie, ?, Graeme Cleator, David Kennely, Dale Ryan. Teacher: Miss Norman

Black and white photograph - Grade 4A, 1962"Attached to photograph" Back Row- L to R: Russell Bourke, Robert Taylor, Malcolm Pearson, Russell Paine, Gavin Phillips, Neil Rattray, Gary Davies, ?, Barry McDonald, Craig Austin, Gary McCubbin, John Moon. 2nd Row- L to R: Julie Cook, Jan Thompson, Leslie Gray, Leanne Thorpe, Laurie Simpson,, Debbie Lawrence, Elizabeth Clarke, Roslyn wiggle, Diana Rankin, Wilemina Cook, Janet Conlon. 3rd Row- L to R: Tommy Colston, Stephen Cross, Jeffrey Ratten, Roslyn (?), Sally Shaw, Debbie Monk, Rhonda McLeod, Karen Williams, Ian Jones, Leslie Reed, David Connell. Front Row- L to R: Robin Hagar, Greg Peters, Malcolm Williams, Phillip Bates, David Kimberley, Michael Craddock, David Kennely, Neil Dawe, Jeffrey Fields. Teacher: Mr Delacca

From Rosemary Cameron - This quilt has been made in 100% wool to celebrate the diversity, durability and beauty of pure wool, especially the lightweight cool wools. The woollen patches were kindly donated by Mr. David Jones, managing Director of Fletcher Jones and Staff which were pre-cut samples of European Fabrics in various weights, textures and colours. I had the task of creating a design around the fabrics available, some of which I only had to sample. I chose to surround my design with dark shades to encompass at the top of the quilt, the lightness of the sky and the trees, in the middle the warmth of summer, the dryness of central Australia and at the bottom the rick tones of Opals, our mineral wealth and the internal heart of earth. To add excitement and texture to this design I chose 31 Australian Wildflowers including all the Australian Floral Emblems, some unusual wildflowers and favourite small wildflowers. Twice life size, these flowers have been made of silk wool and cotton, embroidered, painted and beaded by our creative and talented Hamilton Quilters, their results are fantastic! The brilliance and timeless quality of these Australian Wildflowers intensify and complement the colours of the Wool Quilt. The Quilt was hand pieced and hand quilted at quilting bees. It has a woollen batting, binding and backing which was a delight to work with and very easy to quilt. The flowers were assembled and attached in small working bees. To the fifty-two Hamilton Quilters who have worked on this quilt for six months thank you for you hard work and creativity especially Joan H. Lyons for her time, enthusiasm and knowledge when difficulties arose. Joan M. Lyons has worked with me on various stages of this Quilt, her help and support has been tremendous. To my family who have tolerated scraps of wool and silk, photographs, wildflower books and specimens and drawings which have at times almost taken over our house, a year from ideas to completion, thank you for your support and help in many ways.Multi coloured patchwork quilt with native flowers protruding from centre in a diamond shape.Embroidered on back - "The Celebration Quilt" Made in 1990 by The Hamilton Quilters, Designed by Rosemary A.O. Cameron. Made of Pure Wool. Beryl Anderson, Joan Askew, Bett Basham, Marilyn Baulch, Rau Blaby, Pauline Boyd, Aileen Beckwith, Dorothy Beveridge, Ros Brommell, Rosemary Cameron, Gwen Cook, Anne Cordner, Kaylene Cowland, Elaine Denby, Barbara Dolman, Rosalie Duffield, Helen Fry, Glennys Gardner, Nola Gunning, Margaret Irvine, Bev Jeffrey, Emma Jensen, Betty Lacy, Helen Lampard, Joan H. Lyons, Joan M. Lyons, Elaine McDonald, Carole McEwan, Joy McLeod, Joyce McLeod, Mary May, Joan Mallinson, Susan Mason, Anne Menzel, Val Mills, Betty O’Brien, Di Pettigrew, Therese Read, Sherry Robertson, Lee Rowland, Irene Saddler, Nanette Templeton, Glenys Tindall, Liz Wallis, Ruth Walter, Marion Warburton. Alison Waterman, Pat Wilmot, Nola Malcolm, Ann Nicholls, Margaret Rowe, Jill Hillier.celebration, flowers, hamilton quilters, quilt, native flowers

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Folio page depicting three items attached to a black card background. One item is a title written in black ink on white background, another is a photograph of a quilt, the third shows a hand drawn sketch of a house with a verandah.Front: [handwritten] 95 / Judy Turner / The fading dream of / Australian Home Ownership. / Initial sketch while / deciding how to depict / the Fading Dream of / Australian Home Ownership.quilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Quilt featuring block pieces in tones of grey, blue, tan and brown, graduating in light to dark tones from top to bottom. The top third features a house with a verandah.quilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Folio page depicting three items attached to a black card background. One item is a red, blue, black and white textile sample, another is a hand drawn sketch of a house, the third shows hand written text on lined paper in black ink.Front: [handwritten] Final / design / for housequilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

‘The Fading Dream of Australian Home Ownership’ was made by Judy Turner in 1989 for her son Nicholas (then 14 years) after a family discussion about mortgages and rising interest rates (17% at the time), out of concern for his generation. “Perhaps this will keep my son warm when he can’t afford a house”, wrote Judy at the time. As a quilting teacher for over thirty years, Judy was well aware of the ‘wagga’ tradition of making do with what you have and reusing resources to make something useful. The quilt was made using approximately 270 different men’s woollen suiting samples. The fabrics in the quilt were a gift from Micheal Haze who was a travelling men’s ware salesman and friend of the artist’s late husband. The suiting samples were used just as they were, without cutting, and are stacked liked house bricks. The pieces have been machine pieced and tied. The quilt has woollen backing, with no batting. Judy’s son Nicholas, always interested in drawing, and keen to see what his mother was making, helped with the drawing and design of the house. The quilt has been exhibited in Canberra, Armidale and Sydney and featured in publications in Australian and Japan. Judy’s work has been exhibited Nationally and Internationally, including in Japan, Korea, Germany, Switzerland and the United States of America. Judy’s work has featured extensively in publications around the world, and has received many awards. Her work is held in public and private collections across Australia and the USA. As well as a successful career as an artist, Judy spent three decades imparting skills to the next generation as a patient and skilled teacher. ARTIST STATEMENT The medium of my artistic practice is quilt making and my focus is the use of colour and speedy, accurate and efficient methods of making successful quilts. In 1995 I developed an original technique of applying woollen yarn to a woollen background, focusing on the subtle blending of colour to express an idea. Author of Awash With Colour (1997) and co-author with Margaret Rolfe of Successful Scrap Quilts (2002).Two typed letters held together with a staple. The first letter has a grey printed letter head which includes a logo of a person with wings holding a heart.[printed] PATCHWORK QUILT TSUSHINquilt, wagga, home, house, housing affordability, design

James (Jim) Smith, (died 03/08/1974, aged 93 years) established an orchard growing snow apples near in Happy Valley after returning from mining activities in South Africa. The orchard was called "Springdallah" and was beside the Linton/Happy Valley Road across from the old Happy Valley railway station. Jim was the son of George Henry Smith (18/12/1840 - 26/11/1903) and Emma Keys Smith born Keys (07/08/1842 - 28/08/1888). George and Emma left Liverpool with other unassisted immigrants on the "Bates Family" ship with baby Clara on 08/06/1863 arriving in Melbourne on 08/06/1863. George and Emma emigrated to Australia on the invitation of Emma's brother Edward Keys who owned a property near the school at Happy Valley on which there were two houses. Teddy offered George and Emma the smaller one to live in. When "Teddy" decided to go into hotel keeping George took over the 200 acres of his property and made it a pleasant orchard and garden called "Cress Green Gardens". George had various secretarial jobs - rate collector; paymaster at the mines; until he became Shire Secretary for the Shire of Grenville, whose centre was Linton and Government Auditor for Western Victoria (1894-1903), the means of transport being horse and buggy. Another son followed his father as Shire Secretary. George and Emma had 14 children, Emma dying giving birth to Emma Keys who lived for 16 months. George later married Annie Bolte with 2 more children being born. Annie later sold the property. The land was used for grazing and the two houses fell into disrepair. In 1995 George's grandson Ernest (Alf) Alfred Watson visited the site and reported a wrought iron gate at the site and a mulberry tree near the site of his grandmother's family home. Bluestone blocks can still be seen in the paddocks from the roadside. The child in the photograph is Phyllis Joy Smith, Jim's eldest daughter. Jim Smith was the brother of Clara Emma Yung nee Smith.Sepia photo of two men and a girl. One of them is Jim Smith who established on orchard at Happy Valley. He also went to South Africa - mining activities. The orchard is now part of Clarkesdale Bird Sanctuary located at 360 Linton-Piggoreet Rd, Linton, Vic. 3360. Verso: Jim Smith South Africa (Mining) Established orchard halfway near Linton and Happy Valley. Clara Emma's brother. jim smith, james smith, clara emma smith, happy valley, yendon, piggoreet, south africa, mining, orchard, edward keys, george henry smith, emma keys smith, clara emma yung, annie bolte, shire of grenville, clarkesdale bird sanctury

0 - No 9 - 1/4/2011 - Rhinos on skateboards, Did you know, Spencer St works, .1 - No. 11 of 3/5/2011 with the revised Yarra trams logo, traffic priority, work over Easter in Spencer St at Bourke and Collins St, Good Friday appeal, safety, passenger feedback and future works. .2 - No. 13 - 31/5/2011 - new uniform, cleaning, CEPR, trackwork - Fitzroy St, Northcote, Rhino, Carlton Control. .3 - No. 14 - 15/6/2011 - Haymarket Roundabout, accessibility, maintenance, CSE. .4 - No. 17 - 2/8/2011 - High St Westgarth trackwork, Swanston St, IMF CEO visit .5 - No. 18 - 16/8/2011 - Performance benchmarks met, Preston Workshops, repairs to 3018, tram signal priority. .6 - No . 19 - 30/8/2011 - New E class trams, routes "a" or "d", TramTracker in shelters, police, fare evasion .7 - No. 20 - 15/9/2011 - Football trams, Superstops, Bridge Road, Rhinos. .8 - No. 21 - 27/9/2011 - CEO's journey to work, accessibility, increased patronage, E class. .8a - No. 22 - 11/10/2011 - Minister Mulder visit, E class, Customer experience, Elizabeth Kerdelhue Corporate Affairs Director, flood indicator in Wellington Parade, Keolis - Orleans and PTV coming your way. .9 - No. 23 - 25/10/2011 - forthcoming royal visit, opening for Footscray Road extension, Rhinos, Stockholm .10 - No. 24 - 8/11/2011- Royal visit, photos, Z3 158, route 86 works in High St. (see htd5043i21 for a image from an unknown newspaper of the actual event - features Z3 158.) .11 - No. 25 - 22/11/2011 - new staff guide, Gold Coast tram line, Macarthur St, overhead, fund raising, route numbering update. .12 - No. 26 - 6/12/2011 - Swanston St Superstops, Newmarket bridge strikes, rhinos. .13 - No. 27 - 20/12/2011 - Christmas carnival, Lenny Bates, portable crossover, uniforms. .14 - No. 28 - 17/1/2012 - Passing of Len Bates, Myki, Gardiner railway station. .15 - No. 30 - 15/2/2012 - visit of Keolis, SNCF people, list of Executive leadership team with photos, Swanston St works, Myki introduction. .16 - No. 31 - 29/2/2012 - patronage up, tram postage stamps, Myki, rhinos. .17 - No. 32 - 14/3/2012 - St Kilda Rd trackwork, fund raising, Southbank Depot extensions, Myki, driving conditions, grand prix. .18 - No. 33 - 30/3/2012 - introduction of the PTV, end of MetLink and Transport Ticketing Authority, changes in management structure, trackwork, Gold Coast tramway and Keolis. .19 - No. 34 - Dr Jake - Royal children's Hospital super stop, route 96 - Premium line. .20 - No. 35, 2/5/2012 - Revision of Rules, trackwork in St Kilda Road and Elizabeth St, Myki, safety - Zero Harm. .21 - No. 69 - 25/9/2013 - Passengers paying their way, E class update, Mal Ashworth retires, progress report, feedback, new chime on trams. .22 - No. 70 - 9/10/2013 - Art comes alive, tram 925, driver simulator at Preston Workshops, E class project, 90th Glen Huntly. .23 - No. 83 - 23/4/2014 - Screen time for trams, new PIDs on B class, assistance animals, Operations Centre, Preston Workshops, Electrical log sheets to SLV. .24 - No. 89 - 23/7/2014 - punctuality, refresh of network map (fold-out map), women drivers. .25 - No. 97 - 19/11/2014 - Revitalising route 96, Keolis news, free tram zone, guide dogs. .26 - No. 99 - 17/12/2014 - Accessibility week, new uniform top for CSE's, free tram zone, world trade centre stop upgrade, heat stress, Art tram 158. .27 - No. 100 - 14/1/2015 - Route 96 complete, New Years eve free travel, fare compliance, patronage down, .28 - No. 12 - 16/5/2011 - Gold coast tramway, performance dashboard, tramworks and the rhino .29 - No. 16 - 19/7/2011 - Depot managers, tevor jones, record patronage, vision, rhino .30 - No. 17 - 2/8/2011 - High St Westgarth works, Duncan Smith, David Clarke Training, Swanston St works, and Preston Workshops .31 - No. 29 - 31/1/2012 - Southbank depot, patronage, myki, think like a passenger, fatigue management, .32 - No. 39 - 28/6.2012 - maintenance, Emmanual Sorin, transformation, fare evasion, and Combino in Potsdam. .33 - No. 105 - 25/3/2015 - Grand Prix, Elgin and Lygon upgrade, Camberwell Junction, PTV hub, overhead.Demonstrates Yarra trams staff newsletters.Set of 33 Yarra Trams internal newsletter "The Wire", All A4, printed in full colour. All four pages unless noted otherwise, full colour, performance snapshot on front cover.trams, tramways, yarra trams, traffic control, trackwork, spencer st, fund raising, operations, rhinos, carlton control, high st, haymarket, preston workshops, e class, route numbers, bridge road, wellington parade, ptv, royal visit, footscray road, new tramway, gold coast, macarthur st, swanston st, superstops, newmarket, gardiner, burke road, level crossings, railway squares, myki, metlink, tickets, route 96, rules, st kilda road, elizabeth st, tram 158, tram 925, glen huntly depot, simulator, b class, opeations centre, art trams, patronage

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug