The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Registered plaques representing R.A.N. , W.R.A.N.S. , H.M.A.S. Vampire, and H.M.A.S. Perth.Rare collection of Royal Australian Navy plaquesPine-board backing with 4 plaques mounted 1. Royal Australian Navy, 2. W.R.A.N.S.,3.HMAS Vampire, 4.HMAS Perth, The plaques are mounted on a wooden shields. 1. Royal Australian Navy plaque consists of an oval shape topped by a regal crown and bottom an anchor and chain, The center of the plaque is Black in color embossed in a ring of "Royal Australian Navy" the center of the plaque is a symbol of an anchor and chain. 2. W.R.A.N.S. Triangle shape with a Crown made-up from a sailing ship and the bottom a bow of blue ribbon. The lower half of the triangle is a wreath of leaves. the center of the triangle is painted light blue and has small stars one in each corner. In the center there is a ships anchor and chain. The bottom of the plaque is the initials "W.R.N.S." 3.HMAS Vampire A circular plaque a crown on the top a sailing ship in a crown format. Over a name of Vampire in gold on a black back ground the middle is a circle painted blue with a black Bat in the center. The bottom of the plaque is emblazoned with a boomerang, stone axe and aboriginal waddy followed by a banner "Audamus" meaning "we dare, we venture, we risk" 4.HMAS Perth, A circular plaque a crown on the top a sailing ship in a crown format. Over a name of Perth in gold on a black back ground. The middle is a circle painted gold with a black Griffen in the center. The bottom of the plaque is emblazoned with a boomerang, stone axe and aboriginal waddy followed by a banner "Fight and Flourish". motto.plaques, r.a.n., w.r.a.n., h.m.a.s. vampire

1. The moral lexicon of the Warlpiri people of central Australia LR Hiatt This paper discusses words that match ?Good? and ?Bad?; examples of ?Good? and ?Bad? behaviour; morality and law; and egalitarianism and dominance. It also presents a comparison with Gidjingarli (Burarra). 2. Mobs and bosses: Structures of Aboriginal sociality Patrick Mullins (Mount Druitt, NSW) A commonality of Aboriginal social organisation exists across the continent in communities as different as those from the Western Desert across to Cape York, from the towns of New South Wales and Western Australia to cities like Adelaide. This is found in the colloquial expressions ?mob? and ?boss?, which are used in widely differing contexts. Mobbing is the activity where relatedness, in the sense of social alliances, is established and affirmed by virtue of a common affiliation with place, common experience and common descent, as well as by the exchange of cash and commodities. Bossing is the activity of commanding respect by virtue of one?s capacity to bestow items of value such as ritual knowledge, nurturance, care, cash and commodities. Mobbing and bossing are best understood as structures in Giddens? sense of sets of rules and resources involved in the production of social systems, in this case social alliances. Mobbing and bossing imply a concept of a person as a being in a relationship. Attention needs to be given to the way these structures interact with institutions in the wider Australian society. 3. Recognising victims without blaming them: A moral contest? About Peter Sutton?s ?The Politics of Suffering: Indigenous Policy in Australia since the 1970s? and Gillian Cowlishaw?s replies Ma�a Ponsonnet (Universit� Paris- 8-Saint-Denis) Peter Sutton?s texts on Aboriginal violence, health and their politicisation are replied to using his methodology, and acknowledging his convincing points. Sutton rightly denounces a lack of lucidity and scientific objectivity in anthropological debates. These inadequacies impede identification of what Aboriginal groups can do to improve their situations for fear that this identification would lead to blame the victims. At the other end of the ethical spectrum, those who advocate a broader use of what I will call a ?resistance interpretation? of violence fail to recognise victims as such, on the implicit grounds that seeing victims as victims would deprive them of any agency, on the one hand, and entail blame, on the other hand. I aim to define a middle road between those views: the idea that victims should be acknowledged as such without being denied their agency and without being blamed for their own condition. This middle road allows identification of the colonisers? responsibilities in the contemporary situation of Indigenous communities in Australia, and to determine who can do what. Secondly, I show that Sutton?s texts convey, through subtle but recurrent remarks, an ideology of blame rather than a mere will to identify practical solutions. As a consequence, some of his proposals do not stand on a solid and objective causal analysis. 4. 'You would have loved her for her lore?: The letters of Daisy Bates Bob Reece (Murdoch University) Daisy Bates was once an iconic figure in Australia but her popular and academic reputation became tarnished by her retrograde views. Her credibility was also put in doubt through the exposure of her fictionalised Irish background. In more recent times, however, her ethnographic data on the Aborigines of Western Australia has been an invaluable source for Native Title claims, while her views on Aboriginal extinction, cannibalism and ?castes? are being seen as typical of her time. This article briefly reviews what has been the orthodox academic opinion of her scientific achievement before summarising what is reliably known of her early history and indicating what kind of person is revealed in the 3000 or more letters that she left behind. 5. What potential might Narrative Therapy have to assist Indigenous Australians reduce substance misuse? Violet Bacon (Curtin University of Technology) Substance misuse is associated with adverse consequences for many Australians including Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples. Extensive research has been conducted into various intervention, treatment and prevention programs to ascertain their potential in reducing substance misuse within Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal communities. I explore the potential of Narrative Therapy as a counselling intervention for assisting Indigenous Australians reduce the harm associated with substance misuse. 6. Bone points from the Adelaide River, Northern Territory Sally Brockwell (University of Canberra) and Kim Akerman (Moonah) Large earth mounds located next to the vast floodplains of the lower Adelaide River, one of the major tropical rivers draining the flat coastal plains of northern Australia, contain cultural material, including bone points. The floodplains of the north underwent dynamic environmental change from extensive mangrove swamps in the mid-Holocene, through a transition phase of variable estuarine and freshwater mosaic environments, to the freshwater environment that exists today. This geomorphological framework provides a background for the interpretation of the archaeology, which spans some 4000 years. 7. A different look: Comparative rock-art recording from the Torres Strait using computer enhancement techniques Liam M Brady (Monash University) In 1888 and 1898, Cambridge University?s Alfred C Haddon made the first recording of rock-art from the Torres Strait islands using photography and sketches. Systematic recording of these same paintings and sites was carried out from 2000 to 2004 by archaeologists and Indigenous Torres Strait Islander and Aboriginal communities as part of community-based rock-art recording projects. Computer enhancement techniques were used to identify differences between both sets of recordings, to reveal design elements that Haddon missed in his recordings, and to recover images recorded by Haddon that are today no longer visible to the naked eye. Using this data, preliminary observations into the antiquity of Torres Strait rock-art are noted along with recommendations for future Torres Strait region rock-art research and baseline monitoring projects. 8. Sources of bias in the Murray Black Collection: Implications for palaeopathological analysis Sarah Robertson (National Museum of Australia) The Murray Black collection of Aboriginal skeletal remains has been a mainstay of bio-anthropological research in Australia, but relatively little thought has been given to how and why this collection may differ from archaeologically obtained collections. The context in which remains were located and recovered has created bias within the sample, which was further skewed within the component of the collection sent to the Australian Institute of Anatomy, resulting in limitations for the research potential of the collection. This does not render all research on the collection unviable, but it demonstrates the importance of understanding the context of a skeletal collection when assessing its suitability for addressing specific research questions.maps, b&w photographs, colour photographs, illustrations, graphs, chartswarlpiri, sociology, daisy bates, substance abuse, narrative therapy, rock art, technology and art, murray black collection, pleistocene sites, watarrka plateau

Emerald Country Club Associates Ladies Championship Trophy from 1937 to 1996Local golf club trophy donated by ex committee member Rosalie LeakeSilver Golf Trophy Cup (Ladies) on wooden base.. engraved with winners from 1937 to 1996 Emerald Country Club Associates E.M..KENNON CUP 1937 Mrs G.L. Elkins 1938 Mrs T.W. Gunnersen 1939 Mrs Norman 1940 Mrs A. Baker 1946 Mrs L.A. Fenton 1947 Mrs A.L. Newold 1948 Mrs C. Bedgood 1949 Mrs A. Baker 1950 Miss P. Massey 1951 Mrs W.H. Symon 1952 Mrs W.H. Symon 1953 Mrs A.L. Newbold 1954 Mrs W.H. Symon 1955 Miss M. Jamison 1956 Mrs W.H. Symon 1957 Miss J. Mellor 1958 Mrs L. Bulmer 1959 Mrs W.H. Symon 1960 Miss J. Mellor 1961 Mrs E. Hoy 1962 Mrs L. Bulmer 1963 Miss D. Smith 1964 Mrs N. Tuxen 1965 Mrs M. Hanger 1966 Mrs A. Howard 1967 Mrs R. Morgan 1968 Mrs P. Young 1969 Mrs J. Little 1970 Mrs J. Fountain 1971 Miss P. Jackson 1972 Mrs J. Little 1973 Mrs J. Houghton 1974 Mrs J. Meldrum 1975 Mrs. B. Barraclough 1976 Mrs J. Meldrum 1977 Mrs F. Gooch 1978 Mrs S. Hunter 1979 Ms F. Fenton 1980 Mrs J. Martin 1981 Mrs C. Grand-Court 1982 Mrs J. Pugh 1983 Mrs M. Ruigrok 1984 Mrs P. Summers 1985 Miss A. Scurry 1986 Mrs P. White 1987 Mrs M. Ruigrok 1988 Mrs P. White 1989 J. Ross 1990 Miss B. Bates 1991 Ms A. Felgate 1992 Ms M. Purbrick 1993 Ms J. Thomson 1994 Ms J Tomson 1995 Ms J Thomson 1996 Mrs R. Leake emerald country club, wm kennon cup, golf trophy 1937 to 1996

Set of 15 issues of Yarra Trams Magazine "Tramlines" All folded A3 unless noted otherwise. 1 - Issue 1 - August 2004 - staff event, message from CEO Hubert Guyot, new control centre, route 96, Olympic torch relay, tram 431, new livery, meet Johnpaul tram attendant. .1A - Issue 2 - December 2004 - customer satisfaction, tram attendants, remembrance day, CEO message, new routes, Camberwell depot, staff profile and tramways band. .2 - issue 3 - May 2005 - Fleet operations control centre opens, (photo), Balaclava Junction upgrade, grand union, Melbourne Uni superstop, fund raising. .3 - issue 4 - August 2005 - Congratulations to Lenny Bates 50, departure of Hubert, route 75 extended to Vermont South, fare evasion, trackwork and Superstops in Flinders St and Bourke St, East Preston Depot and think tram project. .4 - Issue 5 - December 2005 - folded A3 sheet, plain paper, colour photos - with articles on congestion, advertising campaign success re fare evaders, new platform stops in Flinders St, Network improvements and getting ready for the 2006 Commonwealth games featuring a cartoon poster of a tram in a race (see Reg item 1235 for the actual poster). Has a message from Dennis Cliche - new CEO. .5 - Issue 6 - May 2006 - folded A2 sheet, gloss paper, items re Commonwealth games, Karachi W-11 tram, Remembrance day, network improvements, Grand Prix, good Friday appeal, and the forthcoming centenary celebrations. Centre page spread has a large number of photos of staff during the Commonwealth Games. .6 - Issue 7 - October 2006 - folded A2 sheet, gloss paper, colour photos of the Centenary Art Tram (5006), Myki, network improvements, memories of 1906, Luna Party Tram (1011) with centre page spread of a photo of 5006 outside Luna Park, and the various tram images featured on the tramcar. See also Reg Item 864 for details of the making of the art work. .7 - Issue 8 - December 2006 - folded A3 sheet, gloss paper, colour photos of the "Tram It 2006" event, light rail, TramTracker being launched, Essendon, Centenary celebrations and "for the love of trams". .8 - Issue 9 - May 2007 - six pages - traffic condition, green depots, Joyce Barry, plaque at Brunswick Depot, fund raising, platform stops, trackwork, TramTracker, Police tram. .9 - Issue 10 - September 2007 - MSO tram, students travels, Transport Challenge 2007, website, TramTracker by SMS. .10 - Issue 11 - Melbourne trams a heritage icon, fund raising, TramTracker, cable tram tracks in Abbotsford St, route 86 to the Waterfront City Docklands, hailing trams. 11 - Issue 12 - Mulhouse tram, Bumblebee, on the docks, fundraising, St Kilda Road upgrades, TramTracker. .12 - Issue 13 - Bumblebee C2 class trams, traffic congestion, wind power tram, Flinders St trackwork. .13 - Issue 14 - Silver Paralympians on tram, green wind powered trams. .14 - Issue 15 - TramTracker Jake, film festival, Public Transport Ombudsman - Simon Cohen, Operations Centre, .15 - Issue 16 - 6 pages - tram performance, TramTracker at tram stops and iPhones, Mike Talks, Myki. All have the Yarra Trams logo on the front cover.trams, tramways, yarra trams, tickets, commonwealth games, flinders st, grand prix, karachi w-11 tram, construction, luna park, essendon depot, centenary, tramtracker, olympic games, control centre, balaclava junction, trackwork, grand union, melbourne university, superstops, vermont south, route 75, flinders st, bourke st, brunswick depot, cable trams, docklands, mulhouse, c2 class, flinders st, environment, ombudsman, myki, tramways band

This is part of a collection belonging to Sgt, William E. CarrollThis is a copy of a letter written by 815 Cpl William Carroll to his Aunt while he was hospitalised in Cairo. It is written on YMCA letterhead.Top Left hand Corner: Patron/ YMCA National Council/ H.M. The King/ Patron /Military Camp Dept./ H.R.H. Duke of Connaught. Centre top: For God, For King & For Country/ YMCA Logo/ with the/ Mediterranean Expeditionary Force. (written through the logo)/ Right hand top corner: Committee/ for Egypt/and/the Near East./ Chairman/ H.E. Sir Henry McMahon Lower down page: Reply to No. 815 Coy D Bat 21st/ Dec 31st '16/ Stationed at/ Dear Aunt,/ I am at present a patient in the (??)/ General Hospital, Egypt, back again at Cairo. I/have a slight abcess on my lip and my neck was a/ bit swollen, but both are almost right now./ It's quite a relief to be away from the shot &/ shell, for a spell & to enjoy comfort and sunshine/ again after four months hardships in the trenches./ During the latter part of my stay at ANZAC, it/ was intensely cold, snow & ice galore & freezing/ cold winds. It's five days since I left the pen/insular; we were taken off in a small steamer/ to Lemnos & put aboard a fine hospital ship./ We arrived at Alexandria yesterday morning/ & came on here last night. My lip has been/ lanced & the swelling is disappearing fast./ I had many miraculuous escapes in the trench./ Once whilst observing over the sandbags a barage/ ventilated my hat. On another occasion when/ I was stiring the porridge a piece of shrapnel/ knocked over our breakfast into the fire. So I have/ a lot to be thankful for to be sure./Many of my comrades have gone and are buried in the/ churchyard in Shrapnell gully & more are away sick/ and wounded. I intended to cable to you for some money but I think I'll be able to make do/ of it, & we have all our wants attended to here./ Do you remembr Willy O'Leary of Mansfield?- He/ was killed near us in an attack some time ago./ Young Sgt. Roberts, my chum of Dookie & Broadmeadows/ was also sniped a few days before I left./ The war doesn't appear to be going too well, but/ I am sure time will tell, & we will eventually/ give the Germans a good belting. Just address/ my letters as usual, as I don't think I'll be here/ for long & if I am my mates will send them/ on. I gave them permission to keep any parcel/ you might forward on whilst I am away. It was/ awfully good of you to send the other thing along./ Hoping all are quite well./ I am/ Your Affectionate Nephew/ William E. Carroll. Cpl/ww1, battalion, aif, 815, sgt, carroll, e, 21st, 6th, brigade, 1st, dcm, wiiliam

The Ballarat School of Mines is a predecessor institution of Federation University Australia. Photocopied newsletters with numerous newspaper clippings. 20 June 1994 - Mission, Women's Policy, Kate Wait, Walter Haller, Stewart Moors, Cynthia Jardine, Mark Lynch, R.J. Young Scholarship, David Thomas 22 August 1994 - Wimmera Community College Agreement, SMB/University of Ballarat Affiliation Agreement Signed by Chancellor Geoffrey Blainey, Max Palmer, Matthew Barlow, Mark Dawe, Phillip Lee, John Conaughton, Elizabeth White 05 September 1994 - Employment White Paper, Workcover, Ross Furness, Nance Jeffreys, Keith Chase, Michael Ronaldson, Ron Wild, Paul Jenkins 25 October 1994 - Staff Consultation Committee, Bendix Mintex Award, Rick Williams, Mike Hickey, Sexual Harassment, Ann McCaffrey, Brewery Complex building 07 November 1994 - Karpin Report, Edgar Bartrop Scholarship, Winsome McCaughey 13 June 1995 - Female Participation in TAFE, Lake Bolac Visit, Virginia Fenelon, Hairdressing, Ararat Community College, Brian MCLennan, Forestry Industry Contract, Ararat PRison Education, E.J.T. Tippett Award, Shane Lake, SMB Graduates 1995, Tony Leonard, Colin McCurry, Steph Pilmore 26 June 1995 - Child Care Centre, computer survey responses, Ellimatta, Sharna Whitehand, Jack Veeken, John Hanmer, Aaron Block, Kirsten Martin, Rowena Worth, Jan Croggon, Andrew McEvoy 24 July 1995 - Teaching, Engineering Liaison, Graham Shearer, Carol Durant, Brian McLennan, Market Research, Ararat Campus, Kevin Martin, Myrtle Muir, Hairdressing, Carol McDonald 07 August 1995 - Childcare, Playgroup, Disabilities, Judy Mills, Former Ballarat Gaol, Private Providers, Equal Opportunity, Equal Employment Opportunity 04 September 1995 - Keith Boast, Barkly Street Campus Library, Barrie Firth, Yuille Street Building, Painting and Decorating, Bricklaying, Disability Forum Committee, Belinda Morgan, Fay Guinane, Olivia Guinane, Robert Clarke Community Centre ceramic Tile Mosaic, Neville French, Annelies Egan, Judith Davies, Tanis Yuille, Margaret Komishon, Ruth Zegir, Ray Isaac 18 September - Competition Policy, Public Sector Reform, Brewery Building contract to S.J. Weir, Ararat Campus, BHP, Peter Bell, Mining Industry, Horticulture Facility (Gillies Street), Creche Fairy Mural, Shellagh Kentish, Daylesford Neighbourhood House and Learning Centre, Jenny Beacham, Tom Bates, Colin Trembath, Alan Scanosio, Zaiga Svanosio 16 October 1995 - Rural Studies Staffing, Robyn Greig, Ross Holton, Virginia Fenelon, Michelle Loader, Christina Elshaug, Cynthia Jardine, Morgan B. John death, Ian Pym, Melissa Cameron, hairdressing, Woolshed, Great Southern Woolshed, Graham Shearer October 1995 - Employment Relations Update, Enterprise Bargaining, Sue Wright, Ron Wild 30 October 1995 - 125th anniversary, 125th anniversary Medallions, Bill Murray (died 28 October 1995), Metal Fabrication, Ron Wild, Gael Ramsay, Paul Keating 20 November 1995 - Ceramics Exhibition, Heather Campbell, Marion Byass, Barry Norman, Helen Knowles, Michael Bracher, Brian McLennan, Rural Studies, Carpark, David Nicholson, Linetter Penhall, Suzanne Brown, Marie Bedggood 27 May 1996 - David Brown Farewell, Keith Boast, Educational Services, Wally Gradkowski, Dzintra Crocker, World Wide Web, Ann McCaffrey 17 June 1996 - Lifelong Learning Through Vocational Education and Training, Lyndal Cooper, Engineering Studies, David Manterfield, Rod MacKinney 19 August 1996 - SMB Strategic Plan 1997-2001, Ian Harris, Ararat Prison Education, Moongate 06 September 1996 - Tom Johnson, Bill Gribble, Ron Wild, INternational Projects Report, Cas Anderson, Court House Theatre, Former Court House, The Moongate 11 November 1996 - Brewery Complex Opening by Prime Minister John Howard on 09 December 1996, Human Resources, Marie Kerr, Fran Kisler, Karen Neale, Trudy Horwoood, Graham Hankin, Engineering Studies, David Manerfied, Sheilagh Kentish, Goroke College 12 May 1997 - Ballarat Group Training, Ballarat Aboriginal Co-operative, SMB Flexible Learning Centre, E.J. Tippett Library, Changing Role of the TAFE Teacher, Maree Greig, Colin Prowse, Performing Arts, Dave Knowles, Karyn Kilroy 20 August 1997 - Amalgamation Update, Graham Paynter, Heather MacLeod, Performing Arts 05 September 1997 - From TAFE to VET, Leoda Atkinson, Daniel James, Ararat campus, Mark Bevelander, computers, Craftsmanship Awards, Koorie Programs Unit, Deanne Jakiel, Stephen Burns, Women's Access Program, Internet 20 October 1997 - amalgamation update, Flexible Learning Centre, Andrea Bateman, Val D'Angri, Leoda Atkinson, Paul Mason, Andrea Bateman 10 November 1997 - Ballarat School of Mines/University of Ballarat Amalgamation, Shenzhen Polytechnic China, Videoconferencing, John Ferrier (Science), Performing Arts 08 December 1997 - Last Edition of Miners' Write Ron Wild, Brian McLennan, Max Palmer, Jeanetter John, Farewell to SMB, Time Capsuleminers write, ballarat school of mines, ron wild

Easter in Bendigo, Official Program1983. Premier Town Victoria 1982-85. Easter In Bendigo '83 Welcome to the 1983 Easter Fair. This is a special time for Bendigo. . . The Fair has a long history bating back to 1871. . . Bendigo Base Hospital, Home and Hospital for the Aged or Benevolent Asylum. . . Back in the 1800s. Gone are the days of the ladies' Fancy Bazaar, Fat Baby Contest, Greasy Pig Chase. . . Many old traditions remain. . . Bendigo's links with the Chinese community go back to the dates when the first settlers arrived seeking gold. The Chinese took a very active part in the fist Fair. . . Monday Procession has always been the most famous as many old photographs show. Some of these photos date back before the turn of the century. In those days many people made the journey to Bendigo by train from Melbourne or by horse and buggy from outlying districts.. . ''Sun Loong'', or ''New Dragon''. . . Horse and Harness Parade a great success each tear attracted an immense variety of horses and horse drawn vehicles. . . Torchlight Procession on Sunday Sports Carnival Fireworks. . . Easter Monday requires precise planning and discipline if it is to run smoothly. A volunteer committee meets through the year to see that this happens. The Popular Girl Contest was introduced in 1930, the four main Streets of Bendigo, Pall Mall, Mitchell Street, Hargreaves Street and Williamson Street (formerly View Street), sponsored a popular girl by means of fund raising events. Winner was announced from the Shamrock Hotel balcony Easter Saturday night by the Mayor of Bendigo. The contest is still being held. . . The Shamrock Hotel now fully restored and reopened. . . Sunday night special ceremony, in time for the winning Popular Girl to take pride of place in the Procession. . . The accent is on the cycling. The Easter sports Carnival dates back to the beginning of the Fair in 1871, seven years before the start of the famous Stawell Gift. Sid. Paterson, Hubert Opperman. . . Golden Mile Wheelrace, the final on Monday night. AFT Amateur Madison, woodchopping, boomerang throwing and gala fireworks Sunday and Monday. This year for the first time the Golden Mile goes Pro/Am, an Open event for the first time. This could see the first clash between Danny Clark and Kenrick Tucker. Hopefully Michael Grenda, Tony Hughes, Michael Turtur will also be starters against leading professionals, Terry Hammond, Murray Hall and Ross Forster. The Golden Mile has been conducted every year since 1956 when it was won by John McDonough. Ron Grenda (Tas) won in 1959, Barry Waddell was the first scratchman to win in 1962 and Frank McCaig (Bendigo) has won the event three times in 1963/5/7. The event carries total prize money of $3000 making it (with Wangaratta Wheelrace) the richest Wheelrace in Provincial Victoria. . . Newly completed Hargreaves Mall being a focus for all this activity. . . Rotary Art Show and Easter Fair Society amalgamated their art shows resulting in a combined exhibition of outstanding quality, since then the Rotary Club has added the Antique Fair. The Handcraft Bazaars, a more sophisticated version of the bazaars of old, offers. . . The Bathtub Derby at Lake Weeroona, Music Festival at Queen Elizabeth Oval. . . Easter Fair of 1871 was almost washed out. . . Necessary top abandon the ''Golden Mile'' Wheelrace on two occasions 1960 & 1979. . . 1983 Official Programme, Good Friday April 1, Saturday April 2, Sunday April 3, Monday April 4, Tuesday April 5. . . Holy Week Ecumenical Services: . . The Chinese And The Bendigo Easter Fair, 3 pages on the history of the chinese involvment in the Bendigo Easter Fair. . . A Little Of Dragons: brief history on chinese and dragons. Sun Loong, Yar Loong. The Birth Of A Dragon: In China a story of the birth of a Dragon. . . Such Trial was set a group of Bendigo Businessmen led by Mr A Guy and comprising MR C Michelsen, Mr L Chon, Mr J Granter, Mr J Henderson, Mr B Andres. In 1969 they formed the ''Loong 100 Committee''. The purpose of the committee was to purchase a dragon to replace the ageing Loong, from donations raised. But who could build a worthy successor to the Great Loong? In Hong Kong a 47 year old dragon builder whose traditions and craft came from the famous dragon building city of Fat Shan on the Pearl River, near Canton where Loong was born. Mr Law On created the famous Sun Loong in his tiny 4x4 metre workshop in Hong Kong. . . 1970 Sun Loong was blessed and brought to life by 101 year old Mr James Lew, dotting his eyes with chicken blood. . . To Awaken A Dragon Dragons tend to sleep a lot and are quiet deaf. . . The Dragon is blessed and fed with pomolo leaves then the process of wakening begins with drums. . . 5000 crackers. The Easter Monday Chinese Procession have a long and varied history in China. The Bendigo Procession is no exception to this. In recent years much research has gone into . . The Procession may be divided into six sections. . . Dragon built in 1969 First Displayed in 1970, length-300ft plus, Extra 100ft added in 1980, number carrying: Head 1 plus 5 releifs, Neck 3, Body 52 plus 52 reliefs, head weight 63 lbs. tail weight 36 lbs.. Scales 4,500 approx. Mirrors 90,000 fins 50, beads 30,000 approx. . . Conclusion. . . Advertisements: Bendigo Pottery, Square Deal Cars, Bob Bell of Borough Bricklaying Pty Ltd, Pinups Wine Bar, Cumberland Hotel, Manchester Arms Hotel, British & American Hotel, Langley Hall BYO Restaurant, White Horse Hotel, Ascot Lodge Caravan Park, The Lemonade Factory, The Pepper Pot, M & M J Meade Mobil, Lakeview Motor Inn Restaurant, Truffles Restaurant, Marong Hotel, 4 Penny Dark BYO Restaurant, Chaplin's Coffee Shoppe, Copper Pot Restaurant, Skins of Australia, Central Deborah Gold Mine, Chris Wall Auto Sales, Brian Boru Hotel, The Green Carnation, Sandhurst Town, Dragon Court BYO Chinese Restaurant, Australian Fixed Trust Investors Services Ltd., The Mohair Farm, Bendigo Model Railroaders, Mexican Kitchen Restaurant, BP Super Shops, Coke, Southern Cross TV8.event, easter fair, bendigo easter fair society, easter in bendigo, official program1983. premier town victoria 1982-85. easter bendigo '83 welcome to the 1983 easter fair. this is a special time for bendigo. . . the fair has a long history bating back to 1871. . . bendigo base hospital, home and hospital for the aged or benevolent asylum. . . back in the 1800s ladies' fancy bazaar, fat baby contest, greasy pig chase. . . many old traditions. . . bendigo's links with chinese the first settlers arrived seeking gold. the chinese took a very active part in the fist fair. . . monday procession the most famous as many photographs show, the turn of the century. many people journey to bendigo from melbourne & from outlying districts.. . ''sun loong'', or ''new dragon''. . . horse and harness parade an immense variety of horses, horse drawn vehicles. . . torchlight procession on sunday sports carnival fireworks. . . easter monday precise planning and discipline to run smoothly. a volunteer committee meets through the year. the popular girl contest introduced in 1930, sponsored a popular girl by means of fund raising events. winner announced from shamrock hotel balcony easter saturday night by the mayor. . . the shamrock hotel now reopened. . . sunday night special ceremony, in time for the winning popular girl to take pride in the procession. . . accent is on the cycling. the easter sports carnival dates back to fair in 1871, seven years before stawell gift. sid. paterson, hubert opperman. . . golden mile wheelrace, final on monday night. aft amateur madison, woodchopping, boomerang throwing, gala fireworks sunday& monday. for the first time golden mile goes pro/am. danny clark and kenrick tucker. michael grenda, tony hughes, michael turtur will also be starters against leading professionals, terry hammond, murray hall and ross forster. the golden mile has been conducted every year since 1956, won john mcdonough. ron grenda (tas) won 1959, barry waddell the first scratchman to win 1962, frank mccaig (bendigo) has won 1963/5/7. prize money of $3000 making it (with wangaratta wheelrace) the richest wheelrace in provincial victoria. . . newly completed hargreaves mall. . . rotary art show and easter fair society amalgamated art shows, antique fair. handcraft bazaars, . . the bathtub derby lake weeroona, music festival queen elizabeth oval. . . easter fair of 1871 was almost washed out. . . necessary top abandon the ''golden mile'' wheelrace on two occasions 1960 & 1979. . . 1983 official programme, good friday april 1, saturday april 2, sunday april 3, monday april 4, tuesday april 5. . . holy week ecumenical services: . . chinese and the bendigo easter fair, . dragons: brief history. sun loong, yar loong. in china a story of the birth of a dragon. . . bendigo businessmen mr a guy, mr c michelsen, mr l chon, mr j granter, mr j henderson, mr b andres. 1969 formed ''loong 100 committee'' purchase a dragon to replace ageing loong, donations raised. build successor great loong? hong kong dragon builder traditions craft came from dragon building city fat shan on the pearl river, canton where loong was born. mr law on created the famous sun loong in his tiny 4x4 metre workshop in hong kong. . . 1970 sun loong was blessed and brought to life by 101 year old mr james lew, dotting his eyes with chicken blood. . . to awaken a dragon dragons tend to sleep a lot and are quiet deaf. . .dragon is blessed fed with pomolo leaves wakening begins with drums. . . 5000 crackers. the easter monday chinese procession have a long and varied history in china. the bendigo procession is no exception to this. in recent years much research has gone into… procession may be divided into six sections. dragon 1969 first displayed in 1970, length-300ft plus, extra 100ft added in 1980, number carrying: head 1 plus 5 releifs, neck 3, body 52 plus 52 reliefs, head weight 63 lbs. tail 36 lbs.. scales 4, 500 approx. mirrors 90, 000 fins 50, beads 30, 000 approx. advertisements: bendigo pottery, square deal cars, bob bell of borough bricklaying pty ltd, pinups wine bar, cumberland hotel, manchester arms hotel, british & american hotel, langley hall byo restaurant, white horse hotel, ascot lodge caravan park, the lemonade factory, the pepper pot, m & m j meade mobil, lakeview motor inn restaurant, truffles restaurant, marong hotel, 4 penny dark byo restaurant, chaplin's coffee shoppe, copper pot restaurant, skins of australia, central deborah gold mine, chris wall auto sales, brian boru hotel, the green carnation, sandhurst town, dragon court byo chinese restaurant, australian fixed trust investors services ltd., mohair farm, bendigo model railroaders, mexican kitchen restaurant, bp super shops, coke, southern cross tv8.

Combination of three movie films. Movie One (1950s): 00:00 – 13:14 Black and white footage of Diamond Creek firemen practising in Diamond Street in the 1950s for forthcoming demonstrations of abilities. Mentions of Gordon Brandy and Joe Hislop Running out hoses from old hose reels along Diamond Street, Diamond Creek Displays from various brigades running out and connecting hoses. Also scenes from the 1950s of Diamond Creek Fire Brigade competing in various locations around Victoria and Tasmania. Mentions of Brigade members Dave Kidd, Bruce Hackett, Ron Kirkbride, Jack Marks, Graham Upton who are prominent in these events. Members of Kyneton Fire Brigade also present. Members competing in running out hose reels, connecting hoses togethers and to hydrants then climbing towers to direct water from hose or at a target hanging above the road. Diamond Creek members identified wearing a diamond on their chest and back. Includes scenes of Scottish pipe bands at the events and significant crowds of spectators. Footage of Mel Stone and Beryl Marks, Stan Redpath and Ron Kirkbride, then Ron Kirkbride and Eric Holt viewing flower displays. Film changes to colour at Diamond Creek oval for practice with fire engine entering oval. Members depicted include Bill May, Jack Sinclair, Jim Cox, Bob Beale, Dave Kidd, Bruce Hackett and Captain Clarrie Stone. Reverts to black and white in the 1950s where the Brigade joins forces with the Diamond Valley Community Hospital for a Gala Day on the Diamond Creek Oval. Changes to colour again, possibly same event and scenes of children on bikes and scooters or with prams and carts racing around the oval. Mention of young lad Brian Laurie who has his own fire truck. Dart throwing, pony rides. Scenes with Dr Don Cordner, Gus Lyons, Vic Cohn (?) and spinning wheel and Diamond Creek School children entertain a large crowd with Maypole dancing. Movie Two (1950s): 13:25 – 19:00 This black and white film was taken by a TV film crew in the 1950s depicts a typical call out for the Diamond Creek Fire Brigade. In this case the careless action of a member of the public throwing a lighted match from a car, which can cause extensive damage. Footage features the Shire of Eltham War Memorial tower at Kangaroo Ground before it was modified with a fire spotter’s cabin. Discusses fire spotting operations from the tower. Shows a fire spotter walking around the top of the tower. A fire is detected, and the information is relayed to the nearest fire station, in this case, Diamond Creek. The telephone call is received, and the alarm sounded. Captain Clarrie Stone and firemen May and Shaw leave their workplaces and prepare for action. Scenes of running across the Main Hurstbridge road showing the shops (Shell service station and Chemist prominent). Scenes entering the fire station which has a pictorial warning covering the entire door “Only you can prevent forest fires – If you’re careless – we’re homeless!” Eric Holt pinpoints the location of the fire while Captain Clarrie Stone and Fireman Shaw take note. The advance vehicle (an FE Holden ute, rego GTE-696) leaves to assess the extent of the fire. Having assessed the fire, Fireman Shaw communicates with base showing radio with call sign VL3JZ. Eric Holt takes the call. In the meantime, Captain Clarrie Stone and Fireman Shaw undertake some limited action to address the fire. Firemen Bill May, Jim Bates and Hugh Bar (?) man the tanker. A photo portrait of Queen Elizabeth is visible hanging on the wall. They are later joined by Firemen Jim Cox, Eric DeBuse (?) and Jack Marks. The tanker is seen departing the station and diverging off before the bridge. Captain Clarrie Stone and Fireman Shaw are seen pumping water on the flames with hand pumps when the tanker arrives. The hose is unreeled, and water turned on the flames. Jack Sinclair joins the action. Jim Cox directs water to the high stuff. The fire put out, Jack Marks and Eric DeBuse wind in the hoses and the team head back to town. It’s peaceful again at the memorial tower. Movie Three (1969-1987): 19:14 – 34:34 Colour film “Fired with Dedication”, Country Fire Authority Victoria, produced by I.L. Wadeson, Commentary by A.M. Hem. Credits with CFA Victoria emblem and then placed over a view of an old-style ladder engine. Opens with the scene of a fire engine outside the Diamond Creek Fire Station then various trophies reflecting the competition success of the brigade in various track and disciplined events. Two trophies shown of particular pride to the brigade were for first place in the Torchlight Procession at the State Championships in Mildura in 1986 and also at Swan Hill in 1981. Still photo scenes of ex Captain Clarrie Stone, Brigade Captain for 21 years; ex Captain Jack Marks, 10 years; ex Captain Ian Douglas, 10 years. Cuts to scene of radio control room, January 1969, and news of a fire on the northern side of the township of Diamond Creek. With scenes of flames in bush, the narration explains that until the early 1960s the area was an orchard district which protected the town against the savagery of bushfires. But due to competition from other areas more suitable for orcharding and easier transport to Melbourne the district could no longer remain competitive, and orchards were replaced by grassed areas, which together with the bush areas were a feeding ground for fire. On 8th January 1969, high temperatures and strong north winds, were, with the carelessness of some individual all that was necessary to produce the worst fire the district had seen. Cuts to scene of blackened fields and cattle - Hundreds of hectares of grass land were blackened, and cattle had to be transported to other areas for agistment. Scene of destroyed buildings in the township – 13 houses and the public hall in the town were destroyed as was the theatre equipment which was owned by the fire brigade. The Church of England Hall and bell tower were badly damaged. The whole town could have been burnt out but for the determination, skill, and courage of the Diamond Creek Fire Brigade. Scenes of all that was left of the home on the hill on the west side of the Church of England. Also, the remains of the old Pisy (?) home on the top of the same hill near Lambert Street, and the ruined Crocker home. Cuts to a scene in the mid-1970s to mid-1980s of a house fire in Haley Street attended by the Diamond Creek Fire Brigade. Although the house was severely damaged, it was saved. Mentions that whilst assistance is appreciated, in some circumstances, those doing so are not properly dressed for fighting fires. Breathing apparatus is a must in structure fire attack. Next scene (either on Mangarook or Coventry oval) showing off four Diamond Creek Fire Brigade efficient and very expensive firefighting units. Features a forward control vehicle Toyota 4WD used for conveying task force personnel to the required areas; a Hino Model 3.2 tanker, diesel powered and carries 3,000 litres of water and has a 16 HP petrol driven pump which delivers 900 litres of water per minute; an International tanker (registration TCM-418) which carries 3,000 litres of water with pumping capacity of 600 litres per minute. The Ford diesel powered pumper (registration MXE-754) is a well-equipped vehicle with a water capacity of 1,000 litres and capable of pumping 1,900 litres of water per minute from the main pump, has many lockers which hose equipment such as breathing apparatus and various types of hose nozzles and foam making equipment. The vehicle carries 360m of 64mm diameter hose which can be laid out from the rear lockers and a portable lighting plant, an Oxy Viva resuscitator to revive smoke inhalation victims and forcible entry tools to gain access to structure fires. Views of the main pump and control panel on the vehicle. As well as the main pump, the vehicle is equipped with an auxiliary pump which allows the facility to pump whilst moving. Fire fighters must undergo constant training and hone their skills, Scenes of a training exercise using the pumper to pump from static water. First, the short lengths of suction hose are coupled, a strainer fitted to ensure debris does not foul the pump. Gauges must be constantly monitored to ensure manageable water pressures are maintained. Pressures are normally controlled to allow two fire fighters to work at each nozzle outlet. Two nozzles are tested, one adjustable jet fog type which is used on flammable gasses or within a structure fire to absorb heat. A straight jet nozzle to project water long distances to protect exposed surfaces close to a fire radiated heat. The pumper is quite a versatile vehicle in handling structure fires, but it also carries specialist equipment needed in containing hazardous chemical incidents. Cuts to scene of parade – the Diamond Creek Fire Brigade has with other neighbouring brigades participated in most town fairs and earns the respect of the watching public. It can be seen why this brigade has been so successful at disciplined contests. Views of Plenty Fire Brigade Road Rescue unit which is equipped with the “Jaws of Life” Scenes of athletic competitions – many neighbouring brigades indulge in friendly but keen competition at the Diamond Creek Town Fair. The young are also encouraged to participate in all aspects of Junior Fire Brigade activities and become tomorrow’s generation of volunteer fire fighters. Scene of the 1986 Diamond Creek Town Fair which was the last time veteran Captain Clarrie Stone BEM marched with the brigade. Clarrie was awarded the British Empire Medal for his service to the Country Fire Authority. Also, scenes of vehicles in the parade. Cuts to scene of brigade members in drill formation for inspection by Acting Chief Harry Rothsay (?) on the occasion of the opening of the new fire station extensions on August 29, 1987. Rudy Libel (?) Captain at the time. Scenes of crowds including many dignitaries of neighbouring brigades present including Lieutenant Gordon Grandy (who came down from Queensland for the occasion) and ex-Secretary David Kidd and wife Betty, also ex Captain Clarrie Stone and Mrs Nel Stone, a life member of the Ladies Auxiliary, the Reverend Jock Ryan, son of J.L Ryan, founder of the Diamond Creek Fire Brigade, Foundation Captain of the fire brigade, Keith Bradbury and Mrs Bradbury. Pauline Dick accepts a community service award for services to the CFA. Recognising over 47 and a half years of service, a presentation is made by Mr Neil Marshall, Acting Chairman of the CFA to ex Captain Clarrie Stone with response by Clarrie. Other members of the official party include Cr. Martin Wright, Shire President Wayne Phillips and local Member of Parliament, Mrs Pauline Toner. Ex foreman John Bennett is presented with a life member’s awards by Captain Rudy Libel. The camera also catches Gwen Cox, Jean Ryan and Bessie Layton (?) Provides historic footage of people, places and equipment and a record of the worst fires expoerienced in Diamond Creek in 1969BASF Standard Quality SQ E-180 VHS dubbing (poor quality) of three films Converted to MP4 file format 0:34:38, 1.85GBOn label: "Donation - August 2000 Diamond Creek Unit Old films made up from Fire Brigade shows at competitions - also Kangaroo Ground Tower being used"video recording, diamond creek fire brigade, 1986 diamond creek town fair, a.m. hem, acting chief harry rothsay, athletic competitions, beryl marks, bessie layton, betty kidd, bill may, bob beale, brian laurie, bruce hackett, captain clarrie stone, chemist, church of england hall, clarrie stone, clarrie stone bem, country fire authority victoria, coventry oval, cr. martin wright, crocker home, dart throwing, dave kidd, david kidd, diamond creek, diamond creek fire station, diamond creek oval, diamond creek school, diamond creek town fair, diamond street, diamond valley community hospital, dr don cordner, eric debuse, eric holt, fe holden ute, fire damage – buildings, fire spotter, fire spotter’s cabin, fire station extension, fired with dedication (film), firefighting units, fireman shaw, firemen jim cox, ford pumper, foundation captain, gala day, gordon brandy, gordon grandy, graham upton, gus lyons, gwen cox, haley street, hino model 3.2 tanker, house fire, i.l. wadeson, ian douglas, international tanker, j.l ryan, jack marks, jack sinclair, january 1969, jaws of life, jean ryan, jim bates and hugh bar, jim cox, joe hislop, john bennett, kangaroo ground, kangaroo ground tower, keith bradbury, kyneton fire brigade, lambert street, main hurstbridge road, mangarook oval, maypole dancing, mel stone, mildura 1986, mrs bradbury, mxe754 vic registration, neil marshall, nel stone, orchard district, oxy viva resuscitator, pauline dick, pauline toner mp, pisy home, plenty fire brigade road rescue unit, pony rides, radio control room, reverend jock ryan, ron kirkbride, rudy libel, shell service station, shire of eltham war memorial, shire president wayne phillips, spinning wheel, stan redpath, state championships, swan hill 1981, tcm418 vic registration, torchlight procession, toyota 4wd, trophies, vic cohn, victorian bushfires - 1969, vl3jz

The Victoria Education Gazette and Teachers' Aid was published for Victoria's teachers and was sent to all school on the state. In 1920 The Ballarat School of Mines had donated 136 pounds 14 shillings and 10 pence to the Victorian Education Department's War Relief Account, and the Ballarat Junior Technical School had donated 10 pounds 6 shillings and 10 pence.Ten black hard covered volumes with red tape spine, covering 1921 to 1930. The gazettes include Education Department appointments, transfers, resignations and retirements, vacancies, notices, queries, notices of books, examination papers, original articles, lesson plans, suggestions for lessons, drawing, obituaries, notes on nature study, mathematics, music, sloyd woodwork, English grammar, Victorian State School Swimming Clubs, Geography, penmanship, science, History, Latin, Geography, The School Garden, horticulture, singing, World War One; ANZAC Day, lifesaving, Astronomy, Empire Day, ANZAC Buffet London, Victorian Education Department's War Relief Fund .1) 1928. Articles include: New Caledonia, Swimming and Lifesaving, School forestry, a visit to the pyramids, Exploration of Gippsland, paul de Strezelecki, Angus McMillan, Villers Bretonneux Memorial School, American Black Walnut, Red Gum, Messmate Stringybark, The Great Barrier Reef, retirement of Frank Tate, Stawell High School, Report on Some Aspects of Education in the United States, Jubilee Education Exhibition , New School Readers; measured Drawing Images include: Macarthur Street School's Plantation, Maryborough School Plantation, Pinus Insignis (Radiata) ready for Milling, Creswick State Forest, Metalwork, Daylesford Pine Plantation four years old, Henry Harvey (art Inspector); Omeo School Endowment Plantation; Frank Tate; Stawell High School Drawings From Casts; Lake Tyers School Endowment Plantation, measured drawing, Thomas H. Stuart, GEorge Swinburne. J.R. Tantham-Fryer, Cookery Class, John Edward Thomas. .3) War Savings Stampsm Swimming and Life-saving, Teh Rural School System of Victoria, Imaginative Composition, ANZAC Day, Retardation, Teh Bright Child Hudson Hard Obituary, Leeches, Relief for Distress in Europe, Dental, Teachers' Library, History of Portarlington, J.E. Stevens Obituary, Victorian Teachers in England Images: Swimming and Life-Saving Medallion .3) Swimming and Lifesaving, Bronze medallion, Victoria Leage of Victori, War Savings Stamps, Rural School Sytem of Victoria, .4) War Relief, Talbot Colony for Epileptics Masonmeadows, Discipline New and Old (Percy Samson), Soldier teachers, Preservation of Australian Birds, Arbor Day, Jubilee of Free Education, Teaching Geography, Poery in Schools, School Committees, Shelter Pavilion, Mysia Memorial School, Clovers, Jubilee Exhibition, Domestic Arts, Louis Pasteur, .5) Victoria League of Victoria, An Endowment Scheme (Pine Plantations), School Endowment Plantations, Protecting our trees by Owen Jones,. Victorian State Schools Horticultural Society, Sloyd Woodwork, School Forestry, Thomas Brodribb Obituary and portrait, Imperial Education Conference London, school Management and Method, School plantations, Eucalypt plantations in the Bendix and Heathcote District, Junior Red Cross, Jubilee Education Exhibition, Gould League Competitions, handwriting, The School Magazine, Frank Tate in London, Victorian beetles, Council of Public Education, Villers Bretonneux and its new School, Death of Samuel Summons, Woodwork Summer School, Swimming, Japanese Relief Fund, Retirement of John Cross, reminiscences of the Late Mr Albert Mattingley .6) Thomas H. Trengrove and the Villers Bretonneux School hall and pilaster carvings, forestry, visit of Maryborough teachers to Ballarat Water Reserves, noxious weeds, relief for Distressed Europe, The Dalton Plan, Empire Day, Retirement of Mr Fussell, Centenary of Hume and Hovell Expedition, League of Kindness, Effective Nature Study in a Rural School, Some Facts About Paper and their Bearing Upon School Plantations, Council of the Working Men's College Melbourne, Maria Montessori, University Vacation School, Horticulture in State Schools, An Informal Chat About French Schools (C.R. McRae), The Vacation School, Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi, Inspector's Report on a 5th-class School, Can Children Write Verse, John Adams, Victoria League of Victoria, R.F. Toutcher, Sir James Barbie's Address to High-School Girls, Impressions of a High School Teacher Abroad (R.D. Collman), The Spirit of the School Plantation Scheme, Monument of the Late Mr and Mrs A.T. Sharp at Box Hill Cemetery, The Teaching of Geography, The Treatment of Poetry in Class, Two Difficult Arithmetic Lessons, Location of Principal Australian Timbers, Dr John Smyth, Stammering and its Influence on Education, Wireless Broadcasting as an Educational Medium, Boys School at Villers Brettonneux, The New School at Villers Brettonneux, Bird Day, Messmate or Stringybark, What Every Woman Knows, Director's Report on Denmark .7)1925 . Includes: School Forestry, horticulture, J.H. Betheras retirement, Ivanhoe School, Coburg School, Moorabool Junior Technical School, Villers Bretonneux School hall and pilaster carvings, Francis Ormond, William Charles Kernot, Corsican Pnes at Creswick, Ballarat High School Plantation, Workin Men's College, RMIT, Naorrow LEafed Peppermint, Education and World Peace, Eucalypts of Victoria, John C. Eccles, Blue Gum. Manners, Giving the Poorly Nourished Boy A Chance, Native Ferns, Marybourough Technical School, Memorial School at Villers-Brettonneux .8) Experimental Plots in Country Schools (W.W. Gay), Villers Bretonneaux and its Memorial School. nominated classes for Art Teachers, The Teachers Act 1925, Horsham High School, Richmond Technical School, Farewell to Messrs C.R. Long and Ponsonby Carew-Smyth, Frank Tate, Phyiscal Training, Arbor Day, ANZAC Day, Shakespeare Day,Bendigo Junior Techncial School, Musical Appreciation, Motor Dental Unit, School Camps, Education Act of 1872: Mr Angus McKay's Part (George Mackay), A Bush Fire Experience (Irene Stable), Black Sunday, Californian Red Pine, Women's Education in America, Farewell to Lord and Lady Stradbroke, Grevilia Robusta, Silky Oak, Redwood, John E. Grant, The Need for Research (Donald Clark), Junior Drama, Ida D. Marshall, John Pounds, Australian Books, Fish Creek School, State Boundaries, History in the Curriculum, Ceramic Art in Australia (Percy E. Everett), Choice of School Songs, Tasmanian Beech, Should History be Taught on a National or an International Basis, Hydatid Disease, James Holland Obituary, Florrie Hodges, Queensland Maple, Post Bushfire Ruins at Fumina, Arbor Day at Fumina, Queensland Rosewood, Omeo Endowment Plantation, Bird Day, Junior Red Cross, Pioneers' Day, Edward Henty, Junior Technical Schools, Yellow Pine, History and Progress of Needlework, A.B.C. of Astronomy, Northumberland Mental tests, Queensland Red Cedar, Teh Globe Theatre, .9) 1927 includes The ABC of Astronomy, Atr Theatre, English Beech, Angus McMillan Art Pottery, School Singing, State Schools' Nursery, School endowment plantations, Making a Man, experimental proof of Charles's Law, John Smyth obituary and portrait, Linton Pine Planation, motivation of arithmetic, Women's Classes at Dookie, Swimming and Lifesaving, Pioneers Day, Drawing, Ballarat High School planation, biting fly, Tir-Na-N'og, John Byatt retirement and portrait, Technical Schools Conference at Daylesford, Ethel Osborne and portrait, library. Francis Thompson portrait, Adam Lindsay Gordon, Solar movement, motor transport, Liverpool Cathedral, Teh Story of the Cathedral, Bendigo School of Mines, Omeo School pine plantation, Egypt and the Nile, Self-Criticism Images include Ballarat High School Pine Plantation, Vale Park, Francis Ormond, Woking Men's College (RMIT), W.N. Kernot, A Stand of Corsican Pines at Creswick, Victoria .10) Some Remarks on the Relationship of the technical Schools to the University (Donald Clark) , Present Day Education in England , Memorial to Joseph Cornwall, Spelling, motivation, Singing, State Scholarships, Agriculture, T.W. Bothroyd, The Swimmer - A Summer School Sketch (H.H. Croll), Swimming woodwork, Farewell to Dr Sutton. ,Drowning, War Savings Movement, White Beech. George S. Browne , Example of School Honor Book, Blackwood, Optimistic teacher, Soldier settlement around Shapparton, Oral Hygiene, Cinema Machines, Basketball, Wakter M. Camble obituary, ANZAC day Pilgrimage in England, Froebel's System, Montessori Method, War Relief Fund, New Zealand Kauri Tree, Bat Tenis at a Bush School., Advice to Australian Girls, Chrysanthemums, Royal Visit, National Parks of Victoria, Maurice Copland Obituary, total eclipse of the Moon, School libraries, The teacher and the COmmunity (A.M. Barry), The Reading Lesson, Swimming and Life-saving, MElbourne Teachers' College War Memorial Windows Old Trainees War Memorial, Cultivating a Natinoal Art education gazette, school, education, teaching, teacher, world war one, school plantations, macarthur street pine plantation, school forestry, creswick state forest, anzac day, armistance celebrations, frank tate, frank tate retirement, drawing from cast, education department school readers, lake tyers pine plantation, w.n. kernot, rmit, working men's college, francis ormond, pine plantations, calenbeem park, creswick, villers-brettonneux school hall and carvings, thomas trengrove, corsican pines, creswick, pine endowment plantations, mccarthur st primary school pine plantation, ballarat high school pine plantation, vale park, mount pleasant primary school pine plantation, golden point pine plantation, angus macmillan, paul de strzelecki, gippsland, villers-bretonneaux memorial school, francis thompson, english ash, pestalozzi centenary, shakespeare day, swimming classes, clear pine, cinema in education, american black walnut, red gum, thomas wolliam bothroyd obituary, and portrait, physical training displays, teaching of spelling, ohm's law, blue gum

There are 62 species of Flying Foxes or "Fruit Bats" globally, with 3 existing in Australia: the grey-headed, the little-red, and the black. Flying Foxes are nocturnal, social and herbivorous animals. They can weigh up to 1kg and live up to 30 years. In Australia, Flying Foxes occupy a range from Bundaberg in Queensland to Geelong in Victoria. Most species are listed as endangered or vulnerable. This specimen is part of a collection of almost 200 animal specimens that were originally acquired as skins from various institutions across Australia, including the Australian Museum and the National Museum of Victoria, as well as individuals such amateur anthropologist Reynell Eveleigh Johns between 1860-1880. These skins were then mounted by members of the Burke Museum Committee and put-on display in the formal space of the Museum’s original exhibition hall where they continue to be on display. This display of taxidermy mounts initially served to instruct visitors to the Burke Museum of the natural world around them, today it serves as an insight into the collecting habits of the 19th century. The specimen is part of a significant and rare taxidermy mount collection in the Burke Museum. This collection is scientifically and culturally important for reminding us of how science continues to shape our understanding of the modern world. They demonstrate a capacity to hold evidence of how Australia's fauna history existed in the past and are potentially important for future environmental, climate and conservation research.Small sized flying fox with a pointed head, curved body, bushy tail, and curved claws perched on a wooden mount. The pelage is thick, long and silky in pale caramel and tan shades. The head is small with two pointed ears, two glass eyes, and about five teeth.On wooden mount: BMM5895 /taxidermy mount, taxidermy, flying fox, fruit bat, burke museum, australian museum, skin, reynell eveleigh johns, natural history, animal

This Register of Mortgagees comes from the Warrnambool legal firm of Fletcher and Mackay which resulted from the merger of the firms of George Sutherland Mackay and James Fletcher in 1893. G.S. Mackay was a prominent resident of Warrnambool from 1891 to his death in 1926. In the 1920s Mr J. Taylor became a partner in the firm known then as Mackay and Taylor and the firm later known as Mackay Taylor was in operation until the 1990s at 131 Kepler Street. The Register of Mortgagees with dates ranging from 1908 to 1924 comes from the old Mackay Taylor offices in the Kepler Street building.This Register of Mortgagees is of some significance as it contains information on many families living in Warrnambool in the early 20th century, including those of Burleig, Swinton, Uebergang, Turland, Bates, Wood and Paton. The entries have social significance, showing the typical loans taken out at the time and the prevailing interest rates. This is a small quarto sized ledger containing 166 pages of a register of mortgagees. The pages have been printed with ruled red lines. The cover is bound with a black cover and a red spine. There are pages with alphabetical tabs at the start of the book. The entries are in black ink. There is one loose page which is an old envelope used as scrap paper to record names and amounts owing or paid. Front cover (paper pasted on) – ‘Register of Mortgagees’mackay taylor legal firm warrnambool mortgagees, warrnambool mortgagees, swinton, uebergang

Black and white copy of photo printed on glossy photographic paper 30.5 x 40.5 cm (12 x 16 inch); image size approx. 18.5 x 28 cmbowler hat, cricket bat, diamond creek, hurstbridge

First World War letters and postcards from various (unknown) servicemen written to Lily Thompson (Lew Howard's aunty). She would write to the servicemen.Digital file only - scanned by EDHS from item on loan aif, 14th australian infantry battalion, charles (charlie) thomas harris, charles thomas harris, first world war, kangaroo ground, letters, lew howard collection, ww1

Mention of Jack O'day being killed First World War letters and postcards from various (unknown) servicemen written to Lily Thompson (Lew Howard's aunty). She would write to the servicemen.Digital file only - scanned by EDHS from item on loan 14th australian infantry battalion, charles (charlie) thomas harris, charles thomas harris, first world war, jack o'day, kangaroo ground, letters, lew howard collection, ww1, aif

Sepia-toned photograph, oversizegroup photo, cricketers, cricket, uniform, bat, tie, mr alston

Image of motor car on front cover with title and authornon-fictionThis book tells the story of the Royal Automobile Club of Victoria (RACV) from 1903 to 1980henry sutton, racv, royal automobile club of victoria, the crown of the road, susan priestley, sue bates

xi, 425 p. : ill., maps :non-fictionThis book is about the history of Brighton and Henry Dendy's survey the early settlement of Brighton and its surrounds and the involvement of Dendy J.B.Were George Higinbotham Thomas Bent and J.H. Taylor in the growth of the community. brighton, dendy, bent, were, higinbotham, taylor, survey, settlement.